Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has a Very Strong Year
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has always been the third leg of the stool of Sangiovese, tucked away back there behind what we have led to believe is the superior nature of Brunello di Montalcino and the sheer power of the Chianti Classico brand, and to be truthful the satellite appellations of Chianti that get pulled along by the gravity that power creates. Small and different in nature Vino Nobile too often gets set aside, or is simply ignored, and that of course is a shame.
There are additional factors at play here of course, and one cannot ignore the role Vino Nobile di Montepulciano itself has played in this little sage. Wines once marked by the aromatic and softening effects of Mammolo have increasingly been pushed to fit a modern narrative of what great wine should be. Ignoring, as has been routinely the case, what a region can uniquely offer.
I was quite impressed with this year’s Vino Nobile Anteprima, as it seems that with each passing year the wines continue to separate themselves from their Tuscan Sangiovese brethren, returning to an increasing dependence on the Mammolo grape to define their character.
As I have recently done with Vernaccia di San Gimignano, I have gone through the past few years of Anteprima notes to see who has emerged as my consistent favorites. I think that in the long run, and given the ability to consider this information, this is the best way to identify what I might subjectively call the best wines. Wish of course is palate dependent, but also of course is what I am trying to do here; identify the most reliable brands in an effort to provide consumers with reliable purchasing information. That doesn’t sound romantic, and though the wine world strives to keep obfuscation and romanticism at the forefront of its work, I have little patience and no need to be a glorified cheerleader who believes that scores of individual tasting notes carry some definitive meaning. Trends are more meaningful, but still, without knowing the style of wine it’s all useless after all.
In any event here are the wines that have shown up in my top wines repeatedly over the past three Anteprima events. I have also included the cores the wines were awarded to indicate that in addition to their consistency one can see that I tended to prefer one producer over another. In absolute I would have to say that Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta is my favorite producer as both their Annata and Riserva made my list, the only producer to achieve this. Evidently not even I am immune to the charms of Merlot. And damn it to all, their Rosso is a delicious little guzzler as well.
2 times over three years
Gattavecchi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 91, 91
Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 93, 90
Le Berne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 95, 90
Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 94, 92
Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 92, 93
Il Molinaccio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano La Spinosa 91, 92
Lunadoro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Selezione Pagliareto 92, 94
Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 90, 90
Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 93, 93
Podere Casa al Vento Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 94, 90
3 times over three years
Cantina Chiacchiera Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 93, 93, 91
Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 91, 90, 91
Tenuta Trerose Simposio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 94, 91, 93
Having said all that, I found so many wines that really stood out for me last year. Wines that were delicious and easy to drink, as well as more serious wines, though they also tended to be delicious and easy to drink! In fact I was truly surprised by the number of great wines that, due to their innate balance, promised much for the future but already were not only approachable, but perfect to enjoy right now. A stark contrast to the recent past when oak influence and concentration/extraction seemed to be the goal. It is worth mentioning that the 2021 Anteprime events were postponed by 3 months. I have no doubt that many of the wines showed better than usual due to this additional period of time in the bottle.
After the ripeness and darker flavors of the 2016s and2017s, the berry fruitiness and tendencacy towards lightness of the 2018s are to be appreciated. And as a bonus it seems as though Vino Nobile managed a more uniform tannin ripeness than some of their neighbors.
This was a blind tasting.
2019 Rosso di Montepulciano
2019 Il Macchione Rosso di Montepulciano
Delicate color, Very fresh nose, a bit rusty, classically Sangiovese, red fruits, a bit of spice, gentle wood influence, a hint of sous bois, bright, light and fresh, a hint of roundness, a touch minty, a bit heavy on the backend and a bit short, Pleasant if slightly rustic. 85
2019 Montemercurio Petaso Rosso di Montepulciano
Full dark color. Perfumed, rather serious on the nose, dense, savory not fruity, stony and clay. A bit higher in acid than I would have expected, not nearly as dense either. A little chewy, short, monolithic, with some lingering fruit tannins. Nondescript but with some room for improvement. 84
2019 Fattoria del Cerro Rosso di Montepulciano
Very Rooty, herbal, tea, quinine, complex if not fruity, I think I might like smelling this more than tasting it. A bit astringent, wiry, very old school in the slightly under-ripe sense, pleasant and interesting if challenging, but it has some complexity and length, it’s just not really fully ripe. 83
2019 Boscarelli Prugnolo Rosso di Montepulciano
Very pale, could almost be a rose. Might be the power of suggestion but smells pleasantly floral, modest, subtle, and with sufficient complexity to hold one's interest. Lovely in the mouth, light, fresh, floral, gentle wild cherry fruit, a fine balance between a subtle roundness and brightness. Super drinkability, fine minerality on the fairly long finish. A winner. Rather elegant for what it is. 89
2019 Fassati Selciaia Rosso di Montepulciano
Dark, brooding, slightly dank nose, woodsy and earthy with a sweet underlay and dark, balsamic fruit. Pretty lively in the mouth, bright, juicy with some muscle to it. A bit simple and leaves only a light tobacco scented juiciness on the finish. Quite pleasant if a little austere and bloody. 86
2019 La Ciarlina Rosso di Montepulciano
Delicate, a bit casky, with aromas of blood, flowers, and chalky astringency. Bright, lovely height on the palate. Bit lean, though possessing good energy, lovely wine, whispy and beautifully aromatic in the mouth with an astringent cleansing finish. A fine table wine. 87
2019 Antico Colle Rosso di Montepulciano
Lots of quinine here buried in forest floor and dark cherry fruit, Intense but rather straightforward. Tannic, Big but hollow, chewy, impressive in a textural sense but this is very matte, with little detail and a bit languid on the palate. Short, chewy, extracted, impressive but not pleasurable. 80
2019 Fattoria Svetoni Rosso di Montepulciano
Smells a bit fleshy, macerated flowers, a hint of quinine, some minerality, tree bark, complex, but not fruity. Light, fresh, fairly easy going and notably fruitier in the mouth than on the nose. Lovely dusty fruit tannins here, could use a year of taming but lends a lovely firmness here. A nice cherry skin note emerges on the finish promising for the future. Needs 6 months. 87
2019 Lombardo Rosso di Montepulciano
Wow this smells sweet and confected, all graham cracker and vanilla. Bright on entry, surprisingly lean and austere in the mouth. There's more weight than flavor intensity here, but this is well balanced, Some decent length, Juicy, straightforward, and focused, 85
2019 Fattoria della Talosa Rosso di Montepulciano
Dark, somewhat earthy on the nose, at times minty and quinine laced, Smells like digging up tree roots. Lovely balance on the palate, fine grained tannins are almost imperceptible, fruit is fresh if not particularly aggressive, acidity is well measured. Very well behaved and pleasant example. Drinkable but also a bit challenging in a very positive way. 90
2019 Icario Rosso di Montepulciano
Now this is different, smells slightly Bordelaise, currants fruit, a touch of herbaceousness, hints of mint and chalk. Ripe, smooth, almost voluptuous, soft and rather well assembled with slight astringent tannins. Lovely wine, with a hint of cocoa gracing the finish followed by slightly aggressive tannins, but this lacks some typicality and suffers from a slightly anonymous flavor profile. Would be a crowd pleaser. A touch hot. 85
2019 Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Rosso di Montepulciano
Cherries, rose petals, and gravel come together here in a. Very fresh and attractive. Direct, fruit driven, lovely fresh wine, yes it’s simple but it is so pure and gently fragrant in the mouth that its appeal is undeniable. Just a lovely wine, perfect with a slight chill, even for fish. This is guzzlable. 87 A winner. Just what I would reach for
2019 Tiberini Sabreo Rosso di Montepulciano
Wow this is suffering from wood influence, sweetly candied as well, no identity. Round, with slightly out of place acidity in the mouth, small yet dry tannins, thankfully short but then its very astringent, extracted feeling. Admittedly the fruit and floral aromas are emerging, but this is trying too hard. 78
2019 La Braccesca Sabazio Rosso di Montepulciano
Deep, savory and complex on the nose, earthy, hints of fruit veering towards blackberry and dark cherry, spicy with a hint of porcini, a great set of aromatics. Smooth, rich, this is playing at another level. There's great depth here, richness without over extraction, dark yet transparent fruit, fine, lacy yet firm structure, and good length. Superb 92
2019 Cantina Chiacchiera Rosso di Montepulciano
A little sweet but also a little stemmy, interesting but not complex, but pleasant with a note of bubblegum. A bit herbal but not under-ripe. Lively and bright on the palate, A bit of a throwback wine, it’s complex, with fruit but not fruit driven, a touch austere, well structured, and slightly chewy, though without any clunkiness. It needs food for sure but is lovely for what it represents. 88
2019 Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Redi Rosso di Montepulciano
Lemon rind, lemon verbena, oregano, not sure what’s going on here. Smells a bit sour as well. Not much to the palate, acidity, it’s a liquid, some slight flavor interest, Sour fruits, slightly unpleasant. 73
2019 Podere della Bruciata Ermete Rosso di Montepulciano
Sour cherry, smoke, and a sweet hint of wood come together on the nose. Almost sweet on entry, a fruit driven palate profile, nicely done for what is but feels slightly dilute, if pleasant with sour cherry fruit, dusty tannins, and a very juicy finale. Simple and pleasant 83
2019 Le Berne Rosso di Montepulciano
Dark, tobacco infused, baked cherry fruit greets the nose followed by hints of gingerbread and bay leaf. Smooth, a bit lower in acid than I would like but not quite soft, a little pillowy, lots of fruit here, well done for a wide market but misses the mark for me, just too languid. Finishes with a slight medicinal note/bitterness. And drying wood tannins that might be too much for the fruit. 84
2019 Salcheto Rosso di Montepulciano
Sweet, rich and intensely aromatic, with layers of slightly confected dark cherry fruit, spices, minerality, and rich herbal nuances. Rich and powerful in the mouth, but on theavy, in fact remaining rather transparent, juicy, lovely presentation of ripe, red and tart fruit, nuanced, slightly rugged texture, but remaining sinewy and angular. There’s something here that prevents me from loving this but it is very impressive stuff, with this sense of age and incipient softening of edges. But so much power. 91
2019 Cantucci Rosso di Montepulciano
Briar, mineral water, sweet gum, bay leaf, very attractively complex towards the savory end of the spectrum. Earthy, damp wood, tobacco. A vague hint of sun dried tomato. Lighter on the palate than expected, and perhaps a tad less ripe. Lithe, lively, easy going with subtle complexity that lacks the fruit of youth, but has yet to pick up aged complexity. Still attractive. In a rustic way. It’s very pure and unfettered. 86
2018 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
2018 La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
A bit woody on the nose, darkly but anonymously fruited, with scents of roses, and roast meats lending complexity. Very front loaded on the palate, a round entry followed by a void, there’s a Balloon here, filling space with lots of emptiness. Dry, powdery tannins on the finish. Maybe this is just elegant, or needs more time, but at the moment it is the definition of underwhelming. 80
2018 Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Old wood, forest floor, quite autumnal in profile, with a nice base of wild berry fruits. Fruity on entry, then turning rather burnished with a soft, draping texture delivering slightly astringent flavors. Perhaps a serious wine, well balanced, and smooth without being formless, with pleasant fruit on the mid palate but the backend seems extracted and forced. Lots of tobacco and some wood tannin on the finish. 83
2018 Tenuta Abbadia Vecchia Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Quinine, rose petals, quite high toned on the nose. Rich, focused, tight yet sleek in the mouth, this is a thoroughbred. Super fine tannins, lovely structural integration, fine depth on the palate, good length, rather seamless. There's plenty of slightly minty dark fruit here, in a very refined and elegant package that doesn’t lack any depth but also doesn’t veer to extremes. It is fairly tannic so patience, 2-3 years, will be rewarded. 92
2018 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
A bit leafy on the nose, Lacks some aromatic intensity but might just be closed. Shows off a hint of pencil lead. Very linear in the mouth, Nice midnight wine, lovely presentation of fruit graced with faint herbal notes on the palate. Finishes with some slightly drying but not inappropriate tannins. Quite refined and elegant package that is approachable but lacks an extra dimension. 89
2018 Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Lovely nose blending tobacco, cherries, wood spice, and dried herbs. Light on the palate, rather fresh for the type, juicy with a liveliness that is attractive. It delivers decent depth of flavor, not quite as complex as the nose promises, but pleasant fruit, a hint of blood, and some dark spice notes that linger on the fairly long finish. 88
2018 Cantina Chiacchiera Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Dried herbs, candied Angelica root, rooibos tea, Oddly angular on entry, though very attractively so. This has some energy to it, lovely transparency and reminds of what Vino Nobile was, and should be. Not a powerhouse, but fresh and lively with good structure, and impressive inner mouth perfumes. Complex and nuanced, this is fascinating. It transitions from flavor to flavor effortlessly and lingers on the long finish. 93
2018 Fattoria Svetoni Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Dark and slightly brooding on the nose, dried herbs, rose petals, dried cherry fruit, muddy earth aromas combine on the nose over a base of cocoa. Rounded, shows some age already, dried leafy flavors merge on entry with faint red berry fruits. Earthy, short, slightly astringent, Not unpleasant but a bit too rustic. What Vino Nobel used to be. 83
2018 Il Molinaccio La Spinosa Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Deeply penetrating aromas of dry soil, stones, balsam and lingonberry greet the nose. The entry shows a hint of glycerine richness, a subtle suaveness, a bit more polish than I would prefer. There's a lovely cherry fruit here, a bit simple perhaps, and a touch softer than I would prefer. Pleasant. But after the nose, a let down. 87
2018 Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
A bit woody on the nose, older large wood, followed by lots of sweet, dark, cherry fruit, and a hint of violet candy. Broad on entry but not soft, this actually skirts that line well, intense and packed with fruit, chewy but in a positive way and fairly long. There’s fruit, minerality, tobacco, and well integrated notes from large wood here delivering a rather complete and complex package. 91
2018 Cantina del Giusto San Claudio II Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Clay, sour cherry, a hint of meatiness, tobacco, and some salty minerality emerge on the nose. Smooth, showing really fine integration but this is just a touch too slick, dense but on theavy and dropping most of its flavor very early in the palate with little follow through. Strange wine, Not unpleasant but comes up short. 83
2018 Gattavecchi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
This smells more sweetly fruited than prior wines, delivering rich aromas of dark berry fruits, a hint of plumpness, all wrapped in notes of ash, dried herb stems, and salty minerality. Subtle on entry, stays a bit low on the palate, though offers plenty of rich fruit flavors, again with a plummy edge. Chewy but still smooth, and finishing with good length, incipient tobacco notes and that basaltic, salty minerality found on the nose. Not obvious but quite good. Rich with fruit tannins, good for cellaring. 91
2018 Tenuta di Poggio Uliveto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Lovely nose blends sweet cherry fruit, vanilla, rose scents with well integrated tree bark and dried herb notes. Bright on entry, then lively in the mouth with a fine harmony between the roundness offered by glycerine richness, and the tension coming from well integrated acidity and finely polished tannins. Elegant and refined with a rush of fruit, mint, and leather picking up the rear. Classy and complete juice though a suggestion of Brett might be off putting to some. 94
2018 De’Ricci Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Decidedly autumnal on the nose with scents of wet leaves, roasting chestnut, and mace covering the spicy berry fruits. Large scaled in the mouth but a bit hollow. Certainly impressive with green leafy nuances verging on tomato leaf framing a core of chestnut and white cherry fruit. Not much on the backend. Pleasant and distinctive with a pleasant transparency and burnished quality but this lacks some harmony. 87
2018 Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Latex paint, I don’t like smelling this, there some typicity but the VA mars the nose. Round and soft, austere, and tannic. Some dark fruit, then an extracted and overtly tannic finish. Nothing to recommend this. 68
2018 Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Bricks, roasted nuts, pink peppercorn spiciness, and sour cherries come together on the nose. Smooth on entry, and rich while this remains medium plus bodied. This really covers the palate, there’s a softly enrobing quality to this yet it manages to remain fresh and lively with lovely fruit well framed by that bricky quality with roasted hickory nut bringing up the rear. Rather complete, though it transitions from soft on the palate to rather tart and slightly hard on the finale. All this while retaining great transparency. A wonder. Fine structure should reward 2-5 years in the cellar. I find this very attractive. Needs food 93
2018 Fattoria del Cerro Silineo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
A touch volatile, lots of tree bark and quinine on the nose, smells decidedly medicinal. Medicinal on entry as well, dark and slightly folded in on itself, this seems a touch closed today but is well balanced, if a bit more tannic than it needs to be. Tannins clipping the finish. Chewy and powerful, this shows potential for the future. But today it’s not pleasurable, fruity, or complex. Tough slog. 84
2018 Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Clay rich aromatic with something rather sea like and saline going on, along with hints of hay, dried rose, old wood, and butchers wax. This is old school, powerful, aged until slightly mushroomy in large wood Vino Nobile. It’s a good example of the type, offering plenty of richness and power, with the complexity of age, still quite young with potential to improve. Not really my style, though I can enjoy it, I would expect this to improve with an additional 2-5 years in the cellar, today it is quite tannic, and the already evolved flavors lead me to believe that when the tannins have softened the wine will be completely tertiary. To keep in mind. 89
2018 Le Berne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Lots of chocolate here on the nose which is very expressive, featuring aromas of slate, talc, blood, a hint of torrefaction, and herb laced cherry fruit. Seductive on entry, this is firm, sinewy, drawn taut across the palate,. The fruit is fresh and lively, quite ripe but deftly combining power and transparency. Lots of tannins on the finish along with assertive minerality. Refined and powerful, this is a wow wine, really can’t find fault here.,Will benefit from age and even though its tannic it’s already enjoyable today due to it’s balance and complexity 95
2018 Le Bertille Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
There's a hint of grapefruit here that sets this apart, lending lift to dark cherry, mocha, and dried herbal aromas. Big on entry, then this drops off, lacking tension, a bit broad, delivering plenty of fruit again with a grapefruit tinge. Easy drinking, if slightly austere on the finish. Which shows some nice dried clay and tobacco nuance. Interesting and distinctive though it lacks the balance of the better wines. 88
2018 Lombardo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Meaty on the nose with aromas of blue flowers lending complexity to the core of balsamic laced wild berry fruit. Softish on entry, then this firms up nicely with flavors that are very dark, and feel a bit extracted. The finish is dense and compact as well. A bit of a puzzle, feels a bit assembled, certainly has potential but there’s no grace or harmony yet. Really tannic on the finish. 85
2018 Podere delle Bruciata Cesiro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Very perfumed, this explodes with super complex medicinal, black cherry, clay,. Dried herb and bay leaf aromas. Wide open on the palate. Deep, lively, playful even with softer tannin lending support but also a roundness. The palate follows the nose with a distinct medicinal edge to the black cherry fruit. Great length, fine natural feeling tannins lending form throughout. There's nothing subtle here, but this delivers tons of fruit and interest in a typical package. A bit chewy but pleasantly so. I think this is what people expect Vino Nobel to be. Fun and interesting. Woo hoo, needs food. 93
2018 La Ciarlina Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Verging on autumnal on the nose, with gentle but distinct baking spice accent notes framing a core of astringent, dark berry fruit. Tight on entry, though well balanced, this is focused and shows admirably pure fruit. Wow, delicious, lacks the complexity of other wines but delivers purity of fruit in a lightly polished well balanced style. Appropriately tannic this is almost drinkable on it’s own, and will benefit from 1-3 years in the cellar. 91
2018 Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Dark cherry, brick, a little sourness, here along with the incipient dried mushroom and tobacco notes of age. Smooth, powerful, this is a well behaved powerhouse that shows a liveliness on the palate but also a density that sets it apart from many of the other wines. Racy with a minty accent lending freshness to the fruit, I didn’t expect this after that nose. Lacks a little detail at this point but shows great promise with terrific density and depth. Wow this could be outstanding with age but it’s already drinkable due to it’s fine balance. The finish is well fruited and very long supported by abundant but super fine tannins. 94
2018 Salcheto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Dark redolent of old large format wood, oyster shells, saltiness, leather and dried berry fruit. A touch loose across the palate, quite pleasant with flavors that mirror the nose but this is just too tannic. Rustic, with good depth of flavor but so much tannin. It feels like mostly fruit tannin so it might harmonize sooner rather than later suggesting room for modest improvement. 87
2018 Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Argo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Very quinine laced and herbal on the nose. Tight on entry, this is pretty closed. Balance is good, well made but Judgement Reserved.
2018 Tenute Trerose Santa Caterina Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Smells like ass. Wow, that's a lot of sulfur. Light and lively in the mouth, with real sweetness to the simply presented almost raspberry toned fruit. Nice, softly tannic finish, a real gentle fruit driven but not frooty wine that seems like it’s a bit simple but delicious, but I don’t have time for the sulfur to blow off. Underneath seems like a promising, lighter styled and fruit driven wine. 87
2018 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Selezione
2018 Tenuta Valdipiatta Vigna d’alfieri Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Selezione
Sweet on the nose, leather and black cherry toned with a gentle veneer of spicy wood lending complexity. A bit loose on entry, lacks some focus, though it does deliver a nice mouthful of pleasant fruit. Finishing with some black spice notes and lovely length. This is very well balanced, Easy going and a crowd pleasing style. 88
2018 Bindella I Quadri Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Selezione
Rather smoky on the nose and sweet with the imprint of newer medium format wood being obvious but not intrusive. There's some plumpness here as well as a citrus accent to the aromatics. Darker on the palate than the nose suggests, there’s a real core of chewy fruit to be found here. A touch monolithic and finishing with a slightly extracted feel, this comes off as a bit clumsy. 85
2018 Poggio alla Sala Parceto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Selezione
Sour cherry, fruity, tarry, quite complex with medicinal hints and a minty top note. Chewy, powerful without being outsized. A dark rendition of Vino Nobile with aggressive structure, and not much follow through. Tiring to taste, I would imagine two glasses would be too much to drink. 83
2018 Lunadoro Pagliarello Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Selezione
Airy on the nose with gentle notes of soil, tobacco, roasted chestnut and menthol. Lighter on entry, medium bodied yet firm, finely polished tannins, well integrated acidity, serious wine that doesn’t feel forced. Good length, plenty of minerality graces the finish. Feels great in the mouth, balanced and focused, like a rapier. It’s a wine that should age for a bit longer, but shows such fine focus and tension that it’s already enjoyable. Flavors tend toward the earthy and savory, though there is no shortage of fruit. 92
2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
2017 Lunadoro Quercione Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
A bit oaky still on the nose, then leathery and with a hint of barnyard. Smooth, a bit too soft an entry, sort of drapes itself across the palate, there’s pleasant orange tinged berry fruit here along with some earthy complexity but this is just a bit too languid and lacks both tension and length. 83
2017 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Reticent and still almost a touch grapy with dark youthful fruit laced with graphite and smoke. Rather restrained and gentle on the palate, with polished tannins and integrated acidifying lending this an almost plump feel, though it has nothing in excess. Juicy, fresh, fruit driven in the best possible way, this is fresh and easy to drink, if not terribly complex. 88
2017 Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Aromas of caramel and fruit pastry greet the nose followed by more herbal and gentle floral suggestions. Soft on entry, easy going with a bricky cast to the flavor profile, clay, tobacco, dried nettles, dried while cherry, and toasted hazelnut. Long, complex if fairly tertiary already, this has a distinct appeal. It is well balanced, and easy to drink. 87
2017 Fattoria della Talosa Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Deep and powerful on the nose with scents of ripe cherry, menthol, dried herbs and white flowers. Powerful yet well balanced, a bit tight still but this is so well balanced it glides effortlessly across the palate. Ripe tannins and finely judged acidity lend it lift and length. Delicious example that is at the crossroad of modern and traditional, easy going and powerful. Really pulls it off with power and freshness that is hard to find. 93
2017 Gattavecchi Riserva dei Padri Serviti Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Very high toned, enough VA to be obvious but not offensive for me. Though it does obscure some of the aromatics. Still this shows plenty of red fruit and tree bark aromas. Medium bodied on entry, a bit more acid than I expected, lending this a tart feel that when combined with the VA is not entirely pleasant. Paired with the powdery tannins this comes off as rustic and tough going. 78
2017 Il Molinaccio La Due Mille diciassette Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Gently aromatic with red berry fruit that recalls a blend of raspberry, lingonberry and cherry paired with sweet violet gum, dried herbs and caraway seeds. Quite vertical in the mouth, a touch lean but juicy with all that red fruit from the nose carrying on to the palate. Lovely wine, just a delight to drink with a playfulness, and juiciness that is attractive paired with a lightness that sets it apart from its peers. The opposite of a powerhouse but so well rendered. 93
2017 Fanetti Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Oak and Brett greet the nose, along with sweet mintiness and mushroomy fruit. A bit indistinct in the mouth, lots of substance but not a lot of depth, it is pleasant in that aged, bricky/mushroomy way but then it turns very dry, extracted, and tannic. Not fun but perhaps time will soften it sufficiently though I would guess the extract will not age along the same lines. 80
2017 Podere della Bruciata Cesiro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Mushroom, clay, fruit, and more fruit greets the nose. Not surprisingly fruit pops on entry, not youthful, but slightly evolved, rich and dense fruit. This is a bit in the powerhouse style, but is very well balanced with such a natural feeling of rich fruit and tannins that lend austerity but don’t dominate the palate. This needs age but should age very well. It’s a big, bold, yet classic style of wine. The finish is long, fairly complex already and again fruit driven. 92
2017 Tenute di Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Minty and mushroomy on the nose, quite earthy and rich with large format wood aromas. Lithe on entry, rich with soft tannins, that support an earthy, evolved palate fun of flavor. Short finish. It’s a good restaurant wine, rather complex, slightly evolved, still firm but obviously softening. A bit of a jack of all trades. 87
2017 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Earthy, deep and lightly medicinal, with hard candy black cherry fruit. One finds that hard candy black cherry fruit on entry as well, along with plenty of herbal and slightly medicinal character. The wine is a bit hard as well, with firm edges and a depth on the palate that is impressive, if lending a bit of a matte extractive feel here. Still very well made though it has the feel and texture of a more modern wine paired with a traditional flavor profile. 90
2017 Icario Vitaroccia Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Very fragrant, dried flowers, fennel pollen, a hint of astringency, clay, dried corn cob, and lingonberry fruit. Gorgeous in the mouth as well, just light and bright delivering all the flavor promised by the nose but free of over extraction and glomminess. It’s cut from a different cloth, though there is a thread of evolution that returns this to its place. The finish is a bit tart, needs food, but throws it off balance a touch as well. 90
2017 Tenute Tre Rose Simposio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
A bit of sulfur to lose but showing fine small berry red fruits, high toned slightly green thyme aromas and a hint of dried orange peel. This is good, opens with a magical blend of lightness and sweetness, that orange rind note lending the wine a candied appeal, followed by pure and unfettered red berry fruit, hints of dried mushroom, and a super fine, dried herbal note that all drape over the long, angular, mineral toned finish. This is benchmark Vino Nobile. Light, elegant, aromatic, and complex. 94
2017 Le Berne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Plums and oranges come together on the nose, lending this a pronounced fruitiness that sets this apart from its peers. Tar and liquorice accents continue the theme. Along with lavender aromas and a fine oak underlay. The palate lacks the punch of the nose. This is surprisingly simple in the mouth, delivering plummy fruit in a fine medium plus bodied package with fine grained tannins lending firmness. The finish shows a hint of bitterness to offer some contrast to the fruit. Tannins are a bit dry as well. A let down after the aromas, perhaps time may help. 87
2017 Fassati Salarco Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Smells vaguely of the sea. More mineral than most of these wines with briary berry fruit aromas lurking underneath. Elegant and finely textured, offering up slightly plummy fruit flavors on a slightly dense palate that is amply supported by tightly packed if very fine tannins. Very well balanced and behaved, with a fine presentation of precise fruit that has yet to pick up much complexity. Leading this to come off as rather four square and straightforward. 88
2017 La Braccesca Vigneto Santa Pie
Figgy and fruity smells like a fruit tart, Slightly foxy even with so much plummy fruit. Very fruity in the mouth as well, with a gentle hint of almost peppery spice lending detail. A little mocha and pastry emerge on the backend before yielding to more typical dried herbal; and spicy floral notes on the finish. There's plenty of tannin to burn there and it does clip the finish somewhat. There is something unusual here on the palate, can’t pinpoint it but it is distracting and the tannins really do clamp down on the finish. 87
There are additional factors at play here of course, and one cannot ignore the role Vino Nobile di Montepulciano itself has played in this little sage. Wines once marked by the aromatic and softening effects of Mammolo have increasingly been pushed to fit a modern narrative of what great wine should be. Ignoring, as has been routinely the case, what a region can uniquely offer.
I was quite impressed with this year’s Vino Nobile Anteprima, as it seems that with each passing year the wines continue to separate themselves from their Tuscan Sangiovese brethren, returning to an increasing dependence on the Mammolo grape to define their character.
As I have recently done with Vernaccia di San Gimignano, I have gone through the past few years of Anteprima notes to see who has emerged as my consistent favorites. I think that in the long run, and given the ability to consider this information, this is the best way to identify what I might subjectively call the best wines. Wish of course is palate dependent, but also of course is what I am trying to do here; identify the most reliable brands in an effort to provide consumers with reliable purchasing information. That doesn’t sound romantic, and though the wine world strives to keep obfuscation and romanticism at the forefront of its work, I have little patience and no need to be a glorified cheerleader who believes that scores of individual tasting notes carry some definitive meaning. Trends are more meaningful, but still, without knowing the style of wine it’s all useless after all.
In any event here are the wines that have shown up in my top wines repeatedly over the past three Anteprima events. I have also included the cores the wines were awarded to indicate that in addition to their consistency one can see that I tended to prefer one producer over another. In absolute I would have to say that Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta is my favorite producer as both their Annata and Riserva made my list, the only producer to achieve this. Evidently not even I am immune to the charms of Merlot. And damn it to all, their Rosso is a delicious little guzzler as well.
2 times over three years
Gattavecchi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 91, 91
Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 93, 90
Le Berne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 95, 90
Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 94, 92
Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 92, 93
Il Molinaccio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano La Spinosa 91, 92
Lunadoro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Selezione Pagliareto 92, 94
Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 90, 90
Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 93, 93
Podere Casa al Vento Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 94, 90
3 times over three years
Cantina Chiacchiera Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 93, 93, 91
Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 91, 90, 91
Tenuta Trerose Simposio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 94, 91, 93
Having said all that, I found so many wines that really stood out for me last year. Wines that were delicious and easy to drink, as well as more serious wines, though they also tended to be delicious and easy to drink! In fact I was truly surprised by the number of great wines that, due to their innate balance, promised much for the future but already were not only approachable, but perfect to enjoy right now. A stark contrast to the recent past when oak influence and concentration/extraction seemed to be the goal. It is worth mentioning that the 2021 Anteprime events were postponed by 3 months. I have no doubt that many of the wines showed better than usual due to this additional period of time in the bottle.
After the ripeness and darker flavors of the 2016s and2017s, the berry fruitiness and tendencacy towards lightness of the 2018s are to be appreciated. And as a bonus it seems as though Vino Nobile managed a more uniform tannin ripeness than some of their neighbors.
This was a blind tasting.
2019 Rosso di Montepulciano
2019 Il Macchione Rosso di Montepulciano
Delicate color, Very fresh nose, a bit rusty, classically Sangiovese, red fruits, a bit of spice, gentle wood influence, a hint of sous bois, bright, light and fresh, a hint of roundness, a touch minty, a bit heavy on the backend and a bit short, Pleasant if slightly rustic. 85
2019 Montemercurio Petaso Rosso di Montepulciano
Full dark color. Perfumed, rather serious on the nose, dense, savory not fruity, stony and clay. A bit higher in acid than I would have expected, not nearly as dense either. A little chewy, short, monolithic, with some lingering fruit tannins. Nondescript but with some room for improvement. 84
2019 Fattoria del Cerro Rosso di Montepulciano
Very Rooty, herbal, tea, quinine, complex if not fruity, I think I might like smelling this more than tasting it. A bit astringent, wiry, very old school in the slightly under-ripe sense, pleasant and interesting if challenging, but it has some complexity and length, it’s just not really fully ripe. 83
2019 Boscarelli Prugnolo Rosso di Montepulciano
Very pale, could almost be a rose. Might be the power of suggestion but smells pleasantly floral, modest, subtle, and with sufficient complexity to hold one's interest. Lovely in the mouth, light, fresh, floral, gentle wild cherry fruit, a fine balance between a subtle roundness and brightness. Super drinkability, fine minerality on the fairly long finish. A winner. Rather elegant for what it is. 89
2019 Fassati Selciaia Rosso di Montepulciano
Dark, brooding, slightly dank nose, woodsy and earthy with a sweet underlay and dark, balsamic fruit. Pretty lively in the mouth, bright, juicy with some muscle to it. A bit simple and leaves only a light tobacco scented juiciness on the finish. Quite pleasant if a little austere and bloody. 86
2019 La Ciarlina Rosso di Montepulciano
Delicate, a bit casky, with aromas of blood, flowers, and chalky astringency. Bright, lovely height on the palate. Bit lean, though possessing good energy, lovely wine, whispy and beautifully aromatic in the mouth with an astringent cleansing finish. A fine table wine. 87
2019 Antico Colle Rosso di Montepulciano
Lots of quinine here buried in forest floor and dark cherry fruit, Intense but rather straightforward. Tannic, Big but hollow, chewy, impressive in a textural sense but this is very matte, with little detail and a bit languid on the palate. Short, chewy, extracted, impressive but not pleasurable. 80
2019 Fattoria Svetoni Rosso di Montepulciano
Smells a bit fleshy, macerated flowers, a hint of quinine, some minerality, tree bark, complex, but not fruity. Light, fresh, fairly easy going and notably fruitier in the mouth than on the nose. Lovely dusty fruit tannins here, could use a year of taming but lends a lovely firmness here. A nice cherry skin note emerges on the finish promising for the future. Needs 6 months. 87
2019 Lombardo Rosso di Montepulciano
Wow this smells sweet and confected, all graham cracker and vanilla. Bright on entry, surprisingly lean and austere in the mouth. There's more weight than flavor intensity here, but this is well balanced, Some decent length, Juicy, straightforward, and focused, 85
2019 Fattoria della Talosa Rosso di Montepulciano
Dark, somewhat earthy on the nose, at times minty and quinine laced, Smells like digging up tree roots. Lovely balance on the palate, fine grained tannins are almost imperceptible, fruit is fresh if not particularly aggressive, acidity is well measured. Very well behaved and pleasant example. Drinkable but also a bit challenging in a very positive way. 90
2019 Icario Rosso di Montepulciano
Now this is different, smells slightly Bordelaise, currants fruit, a touch of herbaceousness, hints of mint and chalk. Ripe, smooth, almost voluptuous, soft and rather well assembled with slight astringent tannins. Lovely wine, with a hint of cocoa gracing the finish followed by slightly aggressive tannins, but this lacks some typicality and suffers from a slightly anonymous flavor profile. Would be a crowd pleaser. A touch hot. 85
2019 Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Rosso di Montepulciano
Cherries, rose petals, and gravel come together here in a. Very fresh and attractive. Direct, fruit driven, lovely fresh wine, yes it’s simple but it is so pure and gently fragrant in the mouth that its appeal is undeniable. Just a lovely wine, perfect with a slight chill, even for fish. This is guzzlable. 87 A winner. Just what I would reach for
2019 Tiberini Sabreo Rosso di Montepulciano
Wow this is suffering from wood influence, sweetly candied as well, no identity. Round, with slightly out of place acidity in the mouth, small yet dry tannins, thankfully short but then its very astringent, extracted feeling. Admittedly the fruit and floral aromas are emerging, but this is trying too hard. 78
2019 La Braccesca Sabazio Rosso di Montepulciano
Deep, savory and complex on the nose, earthy, hints of fruit veering towards blackberry and dark cherry, spicy with a hint of porcini, a great set of aromatics. Smooth, rich, this is playing at another level. There's great depth here, richness without over extraction, dark yet transparent fruit, fine, lacy yet firm structure, and good length. Superb 92
2019 Cantina Chiacchiera Rosso di Montepulciano
A little sweet but also a little stemmy, interesting but not complex, but pleasant with a note of bubblegum. A bit herbal but not under-ripe. Lively and bright on the palate, A bit of a throwback wine, it’s complex, with fruit but not fruit driven, a touch austere, well structured, and slightly chewy, though without any clunkiness. It needs food for sure but is lovely for what it represents. 88
2019 Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Redi Rosso di Montepulciano
Lemon rind, lemon verbena, oregano, not sure what’s going on here. Smells a bit sour as well. Not much to the palate, acidity, it’s a liquid, some slight flavor interest, Sour fruits, slightly unpleasant. 73
2019 Podere della Bruciata Ermete Rosso di Montepulciano
Sour cherry, smoke, and a sweet hint of wood come together on the nose. Almost sweet on entry, a fruit driven palate profile, nicely done for what is but feels slightly dilute, if pleasant with sour cherry fruit, dusty tannins, and a very juicy finale. Simple and pleasant 83
2019 Le Berne Rosso di Montepulciano
Dark, tobacco infused, baked cherry fruit greets the nose followed by hints of gingerbread and bay leaf. Smooth, a bit lower in acid than I would like but not quite soft, a little pillowy, lots of fruit here, well done for a wide market but misses the mark for me, just too languid. Finishes with a slight medicinal note/bitterness. And drying wood tannins that might be too much for the fruit. 84
2019 Salcheto Rosso di Montepulciano
Sweet, rich and intensely aromatic, with layers of slightly confected dark cherry fruit, spices, minerality, and rich herbal nuances. Rich and powerful in the mouth, but on theavy, in fact remaining rather transparent, juicy, lovely presentation of ripe, red and tart fruit, nuanced, slightly rugged texture, but remaining sinewy and angular. There’s something here that prevents me from loving this but it is very impressive stuff, with this sense of age and incipient softening of edges. But so much power. 91
2019 Cantucci Rosso di Montepulciano
Briar, mineral water, sweet gum, bay leaf, very attractively complex towards the savory end of the spectrum. Earthy, damp wood, tobacco. A vague hint of sun dried tomato. Lighter on the palate than expected, and perhaps a tad less ripe. Lithe, lively, easy going with subtle complexity that lacks the fruit of youth, but has yet to pick up aged complexity. Still attractive. In a rustic way. It’s very pure and unfettered. 86
2018 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
2018 La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
A bit woody on the nose, darkly but anonymously fruited, with scents of roses, and roast meats lending complexity. Very front loaded on the palate, a round entry followed by a void, there’s a Balloon here, filling space with lots of emptiness. Dry, powdery tannins on the finish. Maybe this is just elegant, or needs more time, but at the moment it is the definition of underwhelming. 80
2018 Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Old wood, forest floor, quite autumnal in profile, with a nice base of wild berry fruits. Fruity on entry, then turning rather burnished with a soft, draping texture delivering slightly astringent flavors. Perhaps a serious wine, well balanced, and smooth without being formless, with pleasant fruit on the mid palate but the backend seems extracted and forced. Lots of tobacco and some wood tannin on the finish. 83
2018 Tenuta Abbadia Vecchia Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Quinine, rose petals, quite high toned on the nose. Rich, focused, tight yet sleek in the mouth, this is a thoroughbred. Super fine tannins, lovely structural integration, fine depth on the palate, good length, rather seamless. There's plenty of slightly minty dark fruit here, in a very refined and elegant package that doesn’t lack any depth but also doesn’t veer to extremes. It is fairly tannic so patience, 2-3 years, will be rewarded. 92
2018 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
A bit leafy on the nose, Lacks some aromatic intensity but might just be closed. Shows off a hint of pencil lead. Very linear in the mouth, Nice midnight wine, lovely presentation of fruit graced with faint herbal notes on the palate. Finishes with some slightly drying but not inappropriate tannins. Quite refined and elegant package that is approachable but lacks an extra dimension. 89
2018 Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Lovely nose blending tobacco, cherries, wood spice, and dried herbs. Light on the palate, rather fresh for the type, juicy with a liveliness that is attractive. It delivers decent depth of flavor, not quite as complex as the nose promises, but pleasant fruit, a hint of blood, and some dark spice notes that linger on the fairly long finish. 88
2018 Cantina Chiacchiera Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Dried herbs, candied Angelica root, rooibos tea, Oddly angular on entry, though very attractively so. This has some energy to it, lovely transparency and reminds of what Vino Nobile was, and should be. Not a powerhouse, but fresh and lively with good structure, and impressive inner mouth perfumes. Complex and nuanced, this is fascinating. It transitions from flavor to flavor effortlessly and lingers on the long finish. 93
2018 Fattoria Svetoni Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Dark and slightly brooding on the nose, dried herbs, rose petals, dried cherry fruit, muddy earth aromas combine on the nose over a base of cocoa. Rounded, shows some age already, dried leafy flavors merge on entry with faint red berry fruits. Earthy, short, slightly astringent, Not unpleasant but a bit too rustic. What Vino Nobel used to be. 83
2018 Il Molinaccio La Spinosa Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Deeply penetrating aromas of dry soil, stones, balsam and lingonberry greet the nose. The entry shows a hint of glycerine richness, a subtle suaveness, a bit more polish than I would prefer. There's a lovely cherry fruit here, a bit simple perhaps, and a touch softer than I would prefer. Pleasant. But after the nose, a let down. 87
2018 Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
A bit woody on the nose, older large wood, followed by lots of sweet, dark, cherry fruit, and a hint of violet candy. Broad on entry but not soft, this actually skirts that line well, intense and packed with fruit, chewy but in a positive way and fairly long. There’s fruit, minerality, tobacco, and well integrated notes from large wood here delivering a rather complete and complex package. 91
2018 Cantina del Giusto San Claudio II Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Clay, sour cherry, a hint of meatiness, tobacco, and some salty minerality emerge on the nose. Smooth, showing really fine integration but this is just a touch too slick, dense but on theavy and dropping most of its flavor very early in the palate with little follow through. Strange wine, Not unpleasant but comes up short. 83
2018 Gattavecchi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
This smells more sweetly fruited than prior wines, delivering rich aromas of dark berry fruits, a hint of plumpness, all wrapped in notes of ash, dried herb stems, and salty minerality. Subtle on entry, stays a bit low on the palate, though offers plenty of rich fruit flavors, again with a plummy edge. Chewy but still smooth, and finishing with good length, incipient tobacco notes and that basaltic, salty minerality found on the nose. Not obvious but quite good. Rich with fruit tannins, good for cellaring. 91
2018 Tenuta di Poggio Uliveto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Lovely nose blends sweet cherry fruit, vanilla, rose scents with well integrated tree bark and dried herb notes. Bright on entry, then lively in the mouth with a fine harmony between the roundness offered by glycerine richness, and the tension coming from well integrated acidity and finely polished tannins. Elegant and refined with a rush of fruit, mint, and leather picking up the rear. Classy and complete juice though a suggestion of Brett might be off putting to some. 94
2018 De’Ricci Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Decidedly autumnal on the nose with scents of wet leaves, roasting chestnut, and mace covering the spicy berry fruits. Large scaled in the mouth but a bit hollow. Certainly impressive with green leafy nuances verging on tomato leaf framing a core of chestnut and white cherry fruit. Not much on the backend. Pleasant and distinctive with a pleasant transparency and burnished quality but this lacks some harmony. 87
2018 Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Latex paint, I don’t like smelling this, there some typicity but the VA mars the nose. Round and soft, austere, and tannic. Some dark fruit, then an extracted and overtly tannic finish. Nothing to recommend this. 68
2018 Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Bricks, roasted nuts, pink peppercorn spiciness, and sour cherries come together on the nose. Smooth on entry, and rich while this remains medium plus bodied. This really covers the palate, there’s a softly enrobing quality to this yet it manages to remain fresh and lively with lovely fruit well framed by that bricky quality with roasted hickory nut bringing up the rear. Rather complete, though it transitions from soft on the palate to rather tart and slightly hard on the finale. All this while retaining great transparency. A wonder. Fine structure should reward 2-5 years in the cellar. I find this very attractive. Needs food 93
2018 Fattoria del Cerro Silineo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
A touch volatile, lots of tree bark and quinine on the nose, smells decidedly medicinal. Medicinal on entry as well, dark and slightly folded in on itself, this seems a touch closed today but is well balanced, if a bit more tannic than it needs to be. Tannins clipping the finish. Chewy and powerful, this shows potential for the future. But today it’s not pleasurable, fruity, or complex. Tough slog. 84
2018 Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Clay rich aromatic with something rather sea like and saline going on, along with hints of hay, dried rose, old wood, and butchers wax. This is old school, powerful, aged until slightly mushroomy in large wood Vino Nobile. It’s a good example of the type, offering plenty of richness and power, with the complexity of age, still quite young with potential to improve. Not really my style, though I can enjoy it, I would expect this to improve with an additional 2-5 years in the cellar, today it is quite tannic, and the already evolved flavors lead me to believe that when the tannins have softened the wine will be completely tertiary. To keep in mind. 89
2018 Le Berne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Lots of chocolate here on the nose which is very expressive, featuring aromas of slate, talc, blood, a hint of torrefaction, and herb laced cherry fruit. Seductive on entry, this is firm, sinewy, drawn taut across the palate,. The fruit is fresh and lively, quite ripe but deftly combining power and transparency. Lots of tannins on the finish along with assertive minerality. Refined and powerful, this is a wow wine, really can’t find fault here.,Will benefit from age and even though its tannic it’s already enjoyable today due to it’s balance and complexity 95
2018 Le Bertille Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
There's a hint of grapefruit here that sets this apart, lending lift to dark cherry, mocha, and dried herbal aromas. Big on entry, then this drops off, lacking tension, a bit broad, delivering plenty of fruit again with a grapefruit tinge. Easy drinking, if slightly austere on the finish. Which shows some nice dried clay and tobacco nuance. Interesting and distinctive though it lacks the balance of the better wines. 88
2018 Lombardo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Meaty on the nose with aromas of blue flowers lending complexity to the core of balsamic laced wild berry fruit. Softish on entry, then this firms up nicely with flavors that are very dark, and feel a bit extracted. The finish is dense and compact as well. A bit of a puzzle, feels a bit assembled, certainly has potential but there’s no grace or harmony yet. Really tannic on the finish. 85
2018 Podere delle Bruciata Cesiro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Very perfumed, this explodes with super complex medicinal, black cherry, clay,. Dried herb and bay leaf aromas. Wide open on the palate. Deep, lively, playful even with softer tannin lending support but also a roundness. The palate follows the nose with a distinct medicinal edge to the black cherry fruit. Great length, fine natural feeling tannins lending form throughout. There's nothing subtle here, but this delivers tons of fruit and interest in a typical package. A bit chewy but pleasantly so. I think this is what people expect Vino Nobel to be. Fun and interesting. Woo hoo, needs food. 93
2018 La Ciarlina Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Verging on autumnal on the nose, with gentle but distinct baking spice accent notes framing a core of astringent, dark berry fruit. Tight on entry, though well balanced, this is focused and shows admirably pure fruit. Wow, delicious, lacks the complexity of other wines but delivers purity of fruit in a lightly polished well balanced style. Appropriately tannic this is almost drinkable on it’s own, and will benefit from 1-3 years in the cellar. 91
2018 Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Dark cherry, brick, a little sourness, here along with the incipient dried mushroom and tobacco notes of age. Smooth, powerful, this is a well behaved powerhouse that shows a liveliness on the palate but also a density that sets it apart from many of the other wines. Racy with a minty accent lending freshness to the fruit, I didn’t expect this after that nose. Lacks a little detail at this point but shows great promise with terrific density and depth. Wow this could be outstanding with age but it’s already drinkable due to it’s fine balance. The finish is well fruited and very long supported by abundant but super fine tannins. 94
2018 Salcheto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Dark redolent of old large format wood, oyster shells, saltiness, leather and dried berry fruit. A touch loose across the palate, quite pleasant with flavors that mirror the nose but this is just too tannic. Rustic, with good depth of flavor but so much tannin. It feels like mostly fruit tannin so it might harmonize sooner rather than later suggesting room for modest improvement. 87
2018 Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Argo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Very quinine laced and herbal on the nose. Tight on entry, this is pretty closed. Balance is good, well made but Judgement Reserved.
2018 Tenute Trerose Santa Caterina Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Smells like ass. Wow, that's a lot of sulfur. Light and lively in the mouth, with real sweetness to the simply presented almost raspberry toned fruit. Nice, softly tannic finish, a real gentle fruit driven but not frooty wine that seems like it’s a bit simple but delicious, but I don’t have time for the sulfur to blow off. Underneath seems like a promising, lighter styled and fruit driven wine. 87
2018 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Selezione
2018 Tenuta Valdipiatta Vigna d’alfieri Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Selezione
Sweet on the nose, leather and black cherry toned with a gentle veneer of spicy wood lending complexity. A bit loose on entry, lacks some focus, though it does deliver a nice mouthful of pleasant fruit. Finishing with some black spice notes and lovely length. This is very well balanced, Easy going and a crowd pleasing style. 88
2018 Bindella I Quadri Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Selezione
Rather smoky on the nose and sweet with the imprint of newer medium format wood being obvious but not intrusive. There's some plumpness here as well as a citrus accent to the aromatics. Darker on the palate than the nose suggests, there’s a real core of chewy fruit to be found here. A touch monolithic and finishing with a slightly extracted feel, this comes off as a bit clumsy. 85
2018 Poggio alla Sala Parceto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Selezione
Sour cherry, fruity, tarry, quite complex with medicinal hints and a minty top note. Chewy, powerful without being outsized. A dark rendition of Vino Nobile with aggressive structure, and not much follow through. Tiring to taste, I would imagine two glasses would be too much to drink. 83
2018 Lunadoro Pagliarello Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Selezione
Airy on the nose with gentle notes of soil, tobacco, roasted chestnut and menthol. Lighter on entry, medium bodied yet firm, finely polished tannins, well integrated acidity, serious wine that doesn’t feel forced. Good length, plenty of minerality graces the finish. Feels great in the mouth, balanced and focused, like a rapier. It’s a wine that should age for a bit longer, but shows such fine focus and tension that it’s already enjoyable. Flavors tend toward the earthy and savory, though there is no shortage of fruit. 92
2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
2017 Lunadoro Quercione Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
A bit oaky still on the nose, then leathery and with a hint of barnyard. Smooth, a bit too soft an entry, sort of drapes itself across the palate, there’s pleasant orange tinged berry fruit here along with some earthy complexity but this is just a bit too languid and lacks both tension and length. 83
2017 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Reticent and still almost a touch grapy with dark youthful fruit laced with graphite and smoke. Rather restrained and gentle on the palate, with polished tannins and integrated acidifying lending this an almost plump feel, though it has nothing in excess. Juicy, fresh, fruit driven in the best possible way, this is fresh and easy to drink, if not terribly complex. 88
2017 Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Aromas of caramel and fruit pastry greet the nose followed by more herbal and gentle floral suggestions. Soft on entry, easy going with a bricky cast to the flavor profile, clay, tobacco, dried nettles, dried while cherry, and toasted hazelnut. Long, complex if fairly tertiary already, this has a distinct appeal. It is well balanced, and easy to drink. 87
2017 Fattoria della Talosa Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Deep and powerful on the nose with scents of ripe cherry, menthol, dried herbs and white flowers. Powerful yet well balanced, a bit tight still but this is so well balanced it glides effortlessly across the palate. Ripe tannins and finely judged acidity lend it lift and length. Delicious example that is at the crossroad of modern and traditional, easy going and powerful. Really pulls it off with power and freshness that is hard to find. 93
2017 Gattavecchi Riserva dei Padri Serviti Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Very high toned, enough VA to be obvious but not offensive for me. Though it does obscure some of the aromatics. Still this shows plenty of red fruit and tree bark aromas. Medium bodied on entry, a bit more acid than I expected, lending this a tart feel that when combined with the VA is not entirely pleasant. Paired with the powdery tannins this comes off as rustic and tough going. 78
2017 Il Molinaccio La Due Mille diciassette Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Gently aromatic with red berry fruit that recalls a blend of raspberry, lingonberry and cherry paired with sweet violet gum, dried herbs and caraway seeds. Quite vertical in the mouth, a touch lean but juicy with all that red fruit from the nose carrying on to the palate. Lovely wine, just a delight to drink with a playfulness, and juiciness that is attractive paired with a lightness that sets it apart from its peers. The opposite of a powerhouse but so well rendered. 93
2017 Fanetti Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Oak and Brett greet the nose, along with sweet mintiness and mushroomy fruit. A bit indistinct in the mouth, lots of substance but not a lot of depth, it is pleasant in that aged, bricky/mushroomy way but then it turns very dry, extracted, and tannic. Not fun but perhaps time will soften it sufficiently though I would guess the extract will not age along the same lines. 80
2017 Podere della Bruciata Cesiro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Mushroom, clay, fruit, and more fruit greets the nose. Not surprisingly fruit pops on entry, not youthful, but slightly evolved, rich and dense fruit. This is a bit in the powerhouse style, but is very well balanced with such a natural feeling of rich fruit and tannins that lend austerity but don’t dominate the palate. This needs age but should age very well. It’s a big, bold, yet classic style of wine. The finish is long, fairly complex already and again fruit driven. 92
2017 Tenute di Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Minty and mushroomy on the nose, quite earthy and rich with large format wood aromas. Lithe on entry, rich with soft tannins, that support an earthy, evolved palate fun of flavor. Short finish. It’s a good restaurant wine, rather complex, slightly evolved, still firm but obviously softening. A bit of a jack of all trades. 87
2017 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Earthy, deep and lightly medicinal, with hard candy black cherry fruit. One finds that hard candy black cherry fruit on entry as well, along with plenty of herbal and slightly medicinal character. The wine is a bit hard as well, with firm edges and a depth on the palate that is impressive, if lending a bit of a matte extractive feel here. Still very well made though it has the feel and texture of a more modern wine paired with a traditional flavor profile. 90
2017 Icario Vitaroccia Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Very fragrant, dried flowers, fennel pollen, a hint of astringency, clay, dried corn cob, and lingonberry fruit. Gorgeous in the mouth as well, just light and bright delivering all the flavor promised by the nose but free of over extraction and glomminess. It’s cut from a different cloth, though there is a thread of evolution that returns this to its place. The finish is a bit tart, needs food, but throws it off balance a touch as well. 90
2017 Tenute Tre Rose Simposio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
A bit of sulfur to lose but showing fine small berry red fruits, high toned slightly green thyme aromas and a hint of dried orange peel. This is good, opens with a magical blend of lightness and sweetness, that orange rind note lending the wine a candied appeal, followed by pure and unfettered red berry fruit, hints of dried mushroom, and a super fine, dried herbal note that all drape over the long, angular, mineral toned finish. This is benchmark Vino Nobile. Light, elegant, aromatic, and complex. 94
2017 Le Berne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Plums and oranges come together on the nose, lending this a pronounced fruitiness that sets this apart from its peers. Tar and liquorice accents continue the theme. Along with lavender aromas and a fine oak underlay. The palate lacks the punch of the nose. This is surprisingly simple in the mouth, delivering plummy fruit in a fine medium plus bodied package with fine grained tannins lending firmness. The finish shows a hint of bitterness to offer some contrast to the fruit. Tannins are a bit dry as well. A let down after the aromas, perhaps time may help. 87
2017 Fassati Salarco Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Smells vaguely of the sea. More mineral than most of these wines with briary berry fruit aromas lurking underneath. Elegant and finely textured, offering up slightly plummy fruit flavors on a slightly dense palate that is amply supported by tightly packed if very fine tannins. Very well balanced and behaved, with a fine presentation of precise fruit that has yet to pick up much complexity. Leading this to come off as rather four square and straightforward. 88
2017 La Braccesca Vigneto Santa Pie
Figgy and fruity smells like a fruit tart, Slightly foxy even with so much plummy fruit. Very fruity in the mouth as well, with a gentle hint of almost peppery spice lending detail. A little mocha and pastry emerge on the backend before yielding to more typical dried herbal; and spicy floral notes on the finish. There's plenty of tannin to burn there and it does clip the finish somewhat. There is something unusual here on the palate, can’t pinpoint it but it is distracting and the tannins really do clamp down on the finish. 87