2011 Barolo: An early verdict
Having now had sufficient time to digest my thoughts I am ready to offer my opinion of the 2011 vintage in Barolo.
It is magnificent.
Yes, I know, it can't be so. It was a hot vintage, and today only cool vintages can be fabulous.
Except when they’re not.
I have struggled to wrap my head around 2011, a warm vintage by all accounts, and yet the wines are magnificent. To fully understand my opinion though it would be good to define both the climatic question, and the meaning of magnificent, which is the easier place to begin.
Magnificent: Impressively beautiful.
There, now that that is taken care of. But wait, with wine things are never so simply, there has to be the why. The why here is simple, many, if not most of the 2011 Barolos I’ve tasted over the past three years have exhibited a richness and purity of fruit that is layered over a base of terroir driven character with a transparency I have never seen. They are wines that are rich in glycerine, ripe tannins, and supportive, fresh acidity.
We’ve seen this expression of fruit before, most notably in 2000 which, were it not for some ridiculous and particularly frothy early judgements, would be seen in a better light today. It’s not that there is anything wrong with the wines of the 2000 vintage, it’s just that wine geeks love to be contrarian, hence the notion that only cool vintage produce great Barolo, and 2000 is somehow a mediocre vintage. It is not. It is in fact a hell of a lot of fun, showing amazingly rich and ripe fruit, though with little sense of place or detail. They are fun wines, hedonistic wines if you will. 2011 on the other hand offers that detail and sense of place in addition to brilliantly captured fruit that is rich, and zesty, but fresh, crisp and decidedly red toned.
How can this be we ask? it was a hot vintage we are told. Well yes and no, and why should that the end all? 2009 was a hot vintage, as we tend to classify these things, and there the character of the vintage shows with roasted fruit, clumsy structure, and little nuance or detail. Were these two vintages so drastically different? Not as far as daily temperatures went. If you compare the two growing seasons a few things stand out:
2009 was hotter through the middle of July
2011 was hotter through September and October, but not really hot
Daily lows were comparable throughout the season
2011 Experienced wider diurnal shifts throughout the season
It is magnificent.
Yes, I know, it can't be so. It was a hot vintage, and today only cool vintages can be fabulous.
Except when they’re not.
I have struggled to wrap my head around 2011, a warm vintage by all accounts, and yet the wines are magnificent. To fully understand my opinion though it would be good to define both the climatic question, and the meaning of magnificent, which is the easier place to begin.
Magnificent: Impressively beautiful.
There, now that that is taken care of. But wait, with wine things are never so simply, there has to be the why. The why here is simple, many, if not most of the 2011 Barolos I’ve tasted over the past three years have exhibited a richness and purity of fruit that is layered over a base of terroir driven character with a transparency I have never seen. They are wines that are rich in glycerine, ripe tannins, and supportive, fresh acidity.
We’ve seen this expression of fruit before, most notably in 2000 which, were it not for some ridiculous and particularly frothy early judgements, would be seen in a better light today. It’s not that there is anything wrong with the wines of the 2000 vintage, it’s just that wine geeks love to be contrarian, hence the notion that only cool vintage produce great Barolo, and 2000 is somehow a mediocre vintage. It is not. It is in fact a hell of a lot of fun, showing amazingly rich and ripe fruit, though with little sense of place or detail. They are fun wines, hedonistic wines if you will. 2011 on the other hand offers that detail and sense of place in addition to brilliantly captured fruit that is rich, and zesty, but fresh, crisp and decidedly red toned.
How can this be we ask? it was a hot vintage we are told. Well yes and no, and why should that the end all? 2009 was a hot vintage, as we tend to classify these things, and there the character of the vintage shows with roasted fruit, clumsy structure, and little nuance or detail. Were these two vintages so drastically different? Not as far as daily temperatures went. If you compare the two growing seasons a few things stand out:
2009 was hotter through the middle of July
2011 was hotter through September and October, but not really hot
Daily lows were comparable throughout the season
2011 Experienced wider diurnal shifts throughout the season
So there might be something to this presumption that weather has a role to play in forming the character of our wines. If we are to believe all this then it seems to reason that the character of a vintage might be set rather earlier than we might have assumed. Of course temperatures aren’t the end all of weather, but they play a crucial role in developing the aromatics that ultimately lead to proclamations of warm or cool season character. I have often been told that the aromatics of Nebbiolo are formed early in the season, in fact in June and July, which the simple comparison of 2009 with 2011 seems to support. This is all a very lengthy way of saying that aromatically 2011 is not a warm character vintage.
Other traits of a warm character vintage have tended to be high alcohol, which 2011 does have, low acid, which is rarely encountered thanks to the diurnal shifts, and green tannins, which are nowhere to be found thanks to the long growing season which tapered off nicely in October. There was no rush to pick, which no doubt accounts for some elevated alcohol levels as some grapes no doubt suffered a bit of desiccation, concentrating the sugars as well as the tannins, acids, and polyphenols, but it seems that nearly everyone was able to bring in properly ripened grapes in 2011.
One additional distinguishing factor that separates 2009 and 2011 was the availability of water. I have not been able to track down the details yet, but there was less hydric stress in 2011 than 2009, due in small part to more frequent rains during the growing season, but to a much greater degree to the considerable snowfall the region enjoyed in the 2010-2011 winter.
In the 2008-2009 winter there was little snow in the region, and this is a factor that should not be underestimated. Unlike rains, which can help revive plants during the growing season, the slow melt of snow replenishes the ground in a deep and more saturating way than rain which tend to run off the often clay rich top soil of the region, as witnessed by the incredibly number of roads effectively sliding down these hillsides.
So more water, the experience of growers with warmer growing seasons, and a luxuriously warm growing season are responsible for the wines of 2011. Wines that are magnificent, remember? But surely they can’t be as brilliant as the wines of 2010. Yes that is correct, not as brilliant, but still magnificent, and a look at the weather patterns again can give us a hint as to why this is. The facts are quite interesting!
2010 was warmer through much of June and July
2011 was notably warmer through September and October
Nighttime lows were comparable throughout the growing season
Other traits of a warm character vintage have tended to be high alcohol, which 2011 does have, low acid, which is rarely encountered thanks to the diurnal shifts, and green tannins, which are nowhere to be found thanks to the long growing season which tapered off nicely in October. There was no rush to pick, which no doubt accounts for some elevated alcohol levels as some grapes no doubt suffered a bit of desiccation, concentrating the sugars as well as the tannins, acids, and polyphenols, but it seems that nearly everyone was able to bring in properly ripened grapes in 2011.
One additional distinguishing factor that separates 2009 and 2011 was the availability of water. I have not been able to track down the details yet, but there was less hydric stress in 2011 than 2009, due in small part to more frequent rains during the growing season, but to a much greater degree to the considerable snowfall the region enjoyed in the 2010-2011 winter.
In the 2008-2009 winter there was little snow in the region, and this is a factor that should not be underestimated. Unlike rains, which can help revive plants during the growing season, the slow melt of snow replenishes the ground in a deep and more saturating way than rain which tend to run off the often clay rich top soil of the region, as witnessed by the incredibly number of roads effectively sliding down these hillsides.
So more water, the experience of growers with warmer growing seasons, and a luxuriously warm growing season are responsible for the wines of 2011. Wines that are magnificent, remember? But surely they can’t be as brilliant as the wines of 2010. Yes that is correct, not as brilliant, but still magnificent, and a look at the weather patterns again can give us a hint as to why this is. The facts are quite interesting!
2010 was warmer through much of June and July
2011 was notably warmer through September and October
Nighttime lows were comparable throughout the growing season
So really the seasons were not as different as people might pretend.
I am not saying that 2011 is the equal of 2010, to do would be stupid, obviously they are different vintages, but I am saying that the wines, taken on a whole, are just as good.
Folks, this is like 1989 and 1990 all over again, though with better 1990s and 1989s that might not be quite as good. For that we’ll have to wait until 2013.
What?
Yup, as good as the 2010s are, and even the 2011s are, the 2013s might even be better, but let’s finish up with the 2011s first.
So what do we have? Wines that are full of fresh fruit, red fruit, sweet tannins, intact and refreshing acidity, and a transparency of terroir. What more do you want? Some folks might want the detail that the 2010s will achieve with age. The 2011s will gain nuance as well, but perhaps not as much. But why do we need another vintage like 2010? Must every great vintage be one where we have to wait 20 years to experience the greatness? Must great vintages last a minimum of 40 years at their peak?
Hell no, say it ain’t so.
It ain’t so.
2011 is a great vintage. It’s the best vintage ever for those who want to learn about Barolo. The wines are grand and classic, and they will shut down, but before they do you can experience an amazing display of Nebbiolo fruit and terroir like never before. In time these wines promise to come out of hibernation sooner than the 2010s. Still rich with fruit and structured, this is after all Nebbiolo, but with additional nuance. This may not be the greatest vintage ever for collectors, but for consumers it comes awfully close.
And then there is 2013. Now I’ve just tasted barrel samples of the wines destined to be Barolo 2013, but wow, what wines they are. The growing seasons for the two vintages, 2010 and 2013, are quite similar, with the end of 2013 being decidedly warmer than 2010, and giving the vintage a bit more mass and fruit in the mouth. The knock on the vintage could be the late season lows, which were high and might have compromised acidity in some wines, but there is no doubt that producers were able to enjoy extended hang time. It is of course too early to reach any remotely definitive conclusions about the vintage, but given the quality of wines produced in 2011, and 2012 for that matter, it stands to reason that with a growing season like that of 2013 some producers will knock these wines out of the park.
I am not saying that 2011 is the equal of 2010, to do would be stupid, obviously they are different vintages, but I am saying that the wines, taken on a whole, are just as good.
Folks, this is like 1989 and 1990 all over again, though with better 1990s and 1989s that might not be quite as good. For that we’ll have to wait until 2013.
What?
Yup, as good as the 2010s are, and even the 2011s are, the 2013s might even be better, but let’s finish up with the 2011s first.
So what do we have? Wines that are full of fresh fruit, red fruit, sweet tannins, intact and refreshing acidity, and a transparency of terroir. What more do you want? Some folks might want the detail that the 2010s will achieve with age. The 2011s will gain nuance as well, but perhaps not as much. But why do we need another vintage like 2010? Must every great vintage be one where we have to wait 20 years to experience the greatness? Must great vintages last a minimum of 40 years at their peak?
Hell no, say it ain’t so.
It ain’t so.
2011 is a great vintage. It’s the best vintage ever for those who want to learn about Barolo. The wines are grand and classic, and they will shut down, but before they do you can experience an amazing display of Nebbiolo fruit and terroir like never before. In time these wines promise to come out of hibernation sooner than the 2010s. Still rich with fruit and structured, this is after all Nebbiolo, but with additional nuance. This may not be the greatest vintage ever for collectors, but for consumers it comes awfully close.
And then there is 2013. Now I’ve just tasted barrel samples of the wines destined to be Barolo 2013, but wow, what wines they are. The growing seasons for the two vintages, 2010 and 2013, are quite similar, with the end of 2013 being decidedly warmer than 2010, and giving the vintage a bit more mass and fruit in the mouth. The knock on the vintage could be the late season lows, which were high and might have compromised acidity in some wines, but there is no doubt that producers were able to enjoy extended hang time. It is of course too early to reach any remotely definitive conclusions about the vintage, but given the quality of wines produced in 2011, and 2012 for that matter, it stands to reason that with a growing season like that of 2013 some producers will knock these wines out of the park.
And since I should, there is 2012, which has got to be the most variable and perplexing vintage I’ve tasted out of barrel. Some wines are pale and dilute, others are rich and powerful, and still others are elegant and restrained. It’ll be a vintage to cherry pick for sure, but there are some very impressive wines in the making. From a climatic standpoint 2012 is considered to be in the warm climate camp, and the high temperatures throughout June, July, and August can attest to this, though, one finds that in the final stretches of the growing season daily high temperatures dropped rather notably early in September. It’s a growing season that looks a lot like 2009, though with wines that are strikingly different.
Which leads to the first of several conclusions here; which is that there is much more to wine than simply the high and low temps for a day. The utility of classifying vintages as warm or cool is waning, and is based as much on fantasy as on fact, though I believe there is an argument to be made for classifying certain characteristics of a wine as influenced by cool or warm weather.
Most importantly the aromatics, which seem to reflect the weather early in the season, say through June and into July, and the structure, which seems to reflect conditions late in a season. As such we can have wines like several 2012 which show black fruit with high acids and tannins, or conversely 2011s which show red fruit with ripe tannins and bright acids. All this is so very complex, and frankly mysterious, but at the end it’s delicious, and fascinating and fun.
Becoming less fun though so allow me to end with a bit of prognostication.
The process that I have referred to as the Burgundification of Barolo has begun, as suggested, with the 2010 vintage. While the irrational exuberance of the early “I must have this” days post release have calmed down we are still seeing prices that reflect enormous price increases.
Most importantly the aromatics, which seem to reflect the weather early in the season, say through June and into July, and the structure, which seems to reflect conditions late in a season. As such we can have wines like several 2012 which show black fruit with high acids and tannins, or conversely 2011s which show red fruit with ripe tannins and bright acids. All this is so very complex, and frankly mysterious, but at the end it’s delicious, and fascinating and fun.
Becoming less fun though so allow me to end with a bit of prognostication.
The process that I have referred to as the Burgundification of Barolo has begun, as suggested, with the 2010 vintage. While the irrational exuberance of the early “I must have this” days post release have calmed down we are still seeing prices that reflect enormous price increases.
Granted much of these increases were the result of retailers jacking up the price, but they still sold through showing us that the demand is certainly there, and this ignores the price increases experienced by the handful of super cuvees.
Clearly there is something afoot, and this heightened interest in Barolo is not going to wane unless and until there is another great recession, which might be closer than we think. Barring that though this is how I see things transpiring in the traditional Barolo market.
2011 is going to be met with solid demand. Once consumers start to taste the wines there will be sufficient critical mass in getting the word out that I expect the prices realized by the 2010 to become the new normal. There will be demand from traditional channels, particularly restaurants that did not get what they needed or wanted from the 2010 vintage, as well as many new outlets that want to add these delicious and approachable wines to their lists. In addition we should not overlook the unsatisfied demand for 2010s from consumers. Those who were shut out or were unable to get all the 2010s they wanted will snatch up many of the 2011s that come their way.
And then there is the 2012 vintage. A short and variable vintage. Both 2010 and 2011 will have further increased the appetite for Barolo among consumers. That appetite will not be sated with 2012s, which might very well end up on close out in many cases. All this sets the stage for the final chapter in the Burgundification of Barolo: the release of the 2013s.
I don’t know what will happen between then and now but we do know that 2014 is not a great vintage. There will be surprises, but it’s a vintage closer to 2012 in quality than any other recent vintage. Unless 2015 proves to be manna from heaven, expect the wine media to be crowing to the rafters over the 2013s. They are after all great wines. Add this to the increased demand, and relative paucity of supply of great Barolo, and we will witness the end of Barolo as we have known it.
There will be plenty of Barolo to go around, and much of it damn fine, but the truly great producers will be priced on par with the truly great producers from Burgundy, which is the easiest comparison, but also from Bordeaux and Napa Valley where $500 bottles of wine apparently grow on trees, or vines as the case maybe.
So the prognosis is not great. While I do expect the patient to live, it will be a life not without impairments, which is just another reason to take advantage of the bounty of the 2011 vintage. There is plenty of wine to go around, the wines are great and promise to give so much pleasure for 20, 30, maybe even 40 years, so why wait for the next greatest ever? Shouldn’t magnificent suffice? I have previously tasted a bevy of 2011s which I reported on here: 2011 Barolo at Prowein, but I have to say that the wines of several producers tasted on my most recent trip to Piedmont standout as some of the stars of the vintage. I’ve said it before so it should come as no surprise but the wines of Fabio Alessandria at Burlotto are simply terrific, with even the base Barolo being outstanding in 2011. Ditto for Brovia, whose base Barolo 2011 is a must buy for any Nebbiolo lover. Other producers whose 2011s should not be missed for their blend of top quality and value include Elvio Cogno, Giacomo Fenocchio, Massolino, Guido Porro, and Gianni Canonica.
Top picks for Barolo 2011
2011 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Bussia 94pts
2011 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Francia 94pts
2011 Brovia Barolo Rocche 94ts
2011 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero 94pts
2011 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto 94pts
2011 Vietti Barolo Rocche 94pts
2011 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Cannubi 93pts
2011 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 93pts
2011 Guido Porro Barolo Lazzairasco 93pts
2011 Brovia Barolo Villero 93pts
2011 Brovia Barolo Brea Ca Mia 93pts
2011 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera 93pts
2011 Burlotto Barolo Acclivi 93pts
2011 G. D. Vajra Barolo Ravera 93pts
2011 Baudana Barolo Baudana 93pts
2011 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito 93pts
2011 Massolino Barolo Parafada 93pts
Value Superstars!
2011 Brovia Barolo 92pts
2011 Burlotto Barolo 91pts
2011 G. D. Vajra Barolo Albe 91pts
2011 Elvio Cogno Barolo Cascina Nuova 90pts
Tasting Notes
Giacomo Fenocchio
2011 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Castellero 15%
First vintage for this wine
Deep notes of fig, limestone, floral top notes, and a hint of nutty, gamy nuance greets the nose. Rather elegant on entry, with rather fine tannins, good acids, spicy minerality on the midpalate which shows light strawberry fruit, a touch short but nicely mineral on the somewhat modest finish which shows off some dusty tannins. There’s a little heat on finale with some toast and configure of wild cherry as well as all that strawberry fruit on the palate. 89pts
2011 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Cannubi 15%
Spiced cherries in alcohol topped with a lovely rosepetal and licorice laced medicinal note grace the nose. In the mouth this is rather austere on entry, focused with fine grained tannins, lending an elegant and well balanced feel. There’s a lovely core of richness here to the cherry skins and rose petal flavors in the mouth that paired with the good tension and limestone layering shows as a very classic presentation of Cannubi. The finish is focused and long with lovely jammy, rosepetal laced fruit on the finale. 93pts
2011 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Villero 14.5%
65 year old vines,
Jammy blackberry fruit pops from the glass followed by complicating notes of pine bark, a hint of dried mushroom, dusty clay, and frutti del bosco flavors.This is rich up front, with lively acids supporting that wild berry fruit as it’s laced with a hint of balsamic spice and sage on the palate. A lovely wine, with ripe tannins offering a generous feel in the mouth, classically structured, if a little chewy but complete with some mushroomy notes already on the rather long finish. 92pts
2011 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Bussia 15%
Intense macerated flowers with saffron notes greet the nose followed by a spicy and balsamic vein laid over the core of bitter cherry and dark berry fruit. Rather savory on the nose with a bit of spicy wood and some deep Lea & Perrins like notes adding complexity. On the palate this is powerful, an impressive wine, seamless and important with masses of fresh red cherry fruit layered over spice notes with a nuance of herbal inner mouth perfume. Powerful but so well balanced,rich with mineral notes on the finish where you can finally sense the firm tannins and lovely supporting acidity. this is the total package, 94pts
Gianni Canonica
2011 Gianni Canonica Barolo 15.41%
Deeply aromatic on the nose with gorgeous hints of mint, camphor, and cherry pits laid over raspberry fruit and white soil tones. Opening with bright and tart red fruits in the mouth, this shows the tension of dusty yet sweet tannins, and a hint of green fruit across the palate. Lovely and pure and long, if rich in alcohol, this is very finely balanced, retaining the delicacy of fruit, and delivering solid length and a feel that is super well knit and very linear for the vintage. and sweet tannins. 92pts
Cascina Bruni
2011 Cascina Bruni Barolo MariaLungo 14%
Deep on the nose which shows off a bit of blue flowers, smoky cedar wood and aromas of damp clay. Tight on entry with cherry and blackcurrant fruit that is a touch candied. Endowed with nicely ripe tannins, this comes off as a bit meaty on the palate, with fine density to the solid cherry fruit. The tannins here are already softening so this will most likely not need a ton of time though the structure is there for two decades ageing. The finish shows that the tannins retain a little spicy bite and the fruit gains some blue tones and lingonberry flavors on the modest finish. 88pts
E Pira Chiara Boschis
2011 E Pira Chiara Boschis Baolo Via Nuova 14.5%
Tight on the nose with light floral top notes and a hint of peppery-herbal spice. Bright, juicy and fresh in the mouth, this is lovely, with tannins that are ripe, acid a whisper low perhaps. but still vibrant enough, and with lovely depth on the palate. There’s a hint of cocoa here, framing the deep burnished cherry fruit that turns dusty on the finish, even a bit astringent as the wood tannins stick out just a it. A bit wooly and wild still, but this has a lot going on. 92pts
2011 E Pira Chiara Boschis Barolo Cannubi 14.5%
Smoky oak and cedary aromas top the strawberry and cranberry in alcohol aromas on the nose. Air brings out additional minty, nettle, and ricola detail but the oak is still quite noticeable. This comes off as a bit matte in the mouth with lovely Cannubi tannins lending cut and focus to the palate which is rich with strawberry and herb laced flavors. This shows off good length, finishing with austere tannins that are balanced and lend this focus in the mouth. While the oak should integrate nicely it is too noticeable today for my palate. 90pts
2011 E Pira Chiara Boschis Barolo Mosconi 14.5%
Rather exotic and intensely savory on the nose with smoky notes of ham, prosciutto, toasted nuts and deep green herbs coming together over dark, slightly plummy, date like fruit. This is plush, opulent and rich in the mouth with lots of dark, slightly stewy cherry and strawberry jam fruit. Rich with glycerine you can’t deny that this has a lovely texture, but that richness hides a lots of tannin, which peek out on the finish. Slick in the mouth in a style that should have plenty of fans but which is a bit too weighty for me. 90pts
Elio Grasso
2011 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera 14.5%
A bit leathery on the nose, savory and complex with a little roasted fennel, the Salumi notes of slavonian oak dried fruit leather, and even a little fish sauce. Well balanced on the palate with good acids keeping this fresh if the flavors are running more towards burnished fruit. Red apple skin emerge in the mouth, which is a little slippery and even silky on the palate, and this shows good depth, even if the fruit is a bit leathery, this is a hot zone after all. On the finish this shows a hint of heat with tannins that are a little raw, but the lingering maceration of rosepetals, wild strawberry in alcohol, and rosehips saturate the long finale. 91pts
2011 Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Casa Mate 14.5%
Peppery with herbal suggestions on the nose followed by notes of mineral water on the nose, a touch of carob hints of sandalwood and butchers wax, and then again a hint of white pepper. Texturally this is initially very impressive, supple and integrated, with lovely depth but it sits a bit low on the palate, more tannin emerges on the chewy backend, which shows off tobacco and floral nuance. With time this reveals itself as a rather tannic wine with tannins that are verging on dry and austere but remain just ripe and attractive, helping to frame the deep, focused palate. A bit of an outlier that is a touch short on the finish, this should be an interesting wine to follow over the years. 91pts
Bartolo Mascarello
2011 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 14.5%
Fairly deep and slightly spicy on the nose with a lovely base of wild cherry in alcohol and wild strawberry in alcohol aromas. Delicate on entry, this just rolls across the palate with great purity as notes of rose petals raspberry, and balsamic spices subtly weave a palate impression. Long,and finely textured, this shows off a really gorgeous tannin structure that is both supple and firm, bouncing flavors of wild strawberry and cranberries off the palate. Fresh and bright, this finishes with long, lingering tart red fruits. While I’m sure this will age and improve it is really almost ready to go. I would love to try this in six months and then in a year. 93pts
Tenuta Montanello
2011 Tenuta Montanello Barolo 15%
Very savory on the nose with a slightly cedary nose and a hint of vanilla and cocoa framing rosehips and raspberry aromas. On entry this is crisp and focused, if a bit lean considering the vintage and the alcohol but that is not necessarily a bad thing. On the palate there is nice fruit, a bit simple but nicely balanced, with a cool and compressed feel and a hint of austerity to the tannins. The fruit is subdued on the palate with nice hints of of balsamic character and a little cool menthol note that graces the modest finish. 87pts
Guido Porro
2011 Guido Porro Barolo Gianetto 14.5%
6000 bottles, 36 months in wood
Gorgeous on the nose man this smells good, candied but not sweet, with a bit of spicy woodspice layered in with chinato and medicinal aromas that recall cherry cough syrup a bit. Soft, round and rich in the mouth, though packed with hidden tannins, this shows off a lovely, fruity wild cherry midpalate that gains nuanced spice, soil, and peppery notes. With good acids and super balance this finishes with decent length to the lingering rosehip and sandalwood flavors. There is some wood that is noticeable here but I expect that to integrate rather quickly. 91pts
2011 Guido Porro Barolo Santa Caterina 15%
Deep cherry fruit greets the nose, gaining an earthy edge with hints of dried orange peel, and a bit prune in alcohol. Suave, rich and smooth in the mouth with plenty of soft tannins and good acids this stays lively in the mouth with fine herbal, fennel, rose petal, and arugula nuance,. A bit tight on the long finish which shows classic austerity to the tannins, this remains well balanced with alcohol that is nicely concealed on the long finish but lacks a bit of energy in the mouth. 90pts
2011 Guido Porro Barolo Lazzairasco 14.5%
Classic nose of Lazzairasco with hints of mint and carob framing the core of clear, pure slightly stony, cherry fruit, with an almost chocolatey, cocoa tinged earthy top note. While showing great ripeness on the nose , the palate here is notably fresh with bright acidity lending more freshness to the raspberry and rosepetal flavors in the mouth. Hints of mint, cinnamon, tar, and licorice emerge on the long, well defined finish. This is a super wine, elegant with ripe tannins, great persistence to the fresh fruit, a little powerhouse of ripeness but with detail, clarity, a little spice, and some warmth. This is impressive. 93pts
Giacomo Conterno
2011 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Francia 14.5%
Intensely pure and fruitily aromatic on the nose which shows of small wild cherry fruit framed with spicy grace notes, and hints of black tea. On entry noble tannins lend a nice framing edge to the fruit, rich in small burnished cherry tones, and exhibiting lovely tension through the long bright acid driven finish. There’s lovely balance and freshness here with an intensity and purity of fruit that is rare. Graceful and elegant for both the vineyard and the vintage, this will, not surprisingly, age exceptionally well within the context of the vintage. The balance is just so fine already. Perhaps not at the level of 2010 but superb none the less. 94pts
2011 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cerretta 14.5%
Hugely fruity nose redolent with darker cherry and almost blackberry and plum aromas framed with a hint of smoke and candied, almost vanilla basenotes. Plump, round, and transparent in the mouth this displays softer tannins than the Francia, and while less structured, this remains rather firm in the mouth. Not as well integrated through the finish, here one finds a drier finish, spicy length, with hint of heat on the finale. A powerful and dense fruit graces the core of this wine, with broader shoulders, this is a bit more of a brute than the Francia with tannins that really build here, making this rather chewy with lovely spicy notes through the long finish. More stuffing, more of everything perhaps, but not necessarily better. 92pts
Fratelli Barale
2011 Barale Barolo 13.5%
Jammy, with a full on lingonberry nose, a balsamic underlay, and accents of clay and a little waft of cigar smoke. Juicy, rich in fruit, and powerful in the mouth, this shows fine balance between the juicy acids and ripe, soft tannins. A hint of astringent fruit in the mouth shows the freshness here, with lovely tarry and tart red fruit flavors. Perhaps a little chunky and a touch simple on the palate, but immediately approachable. 89pts
2011 Barale Barolo Castellero
Meaty, beefy, and plummy on the nose with a hint of VA.The fruit really pops with air revealing aromas of freshly sliced if slightly ruined plums. Rich in the mouth, glycerine rich, a bit plummy in the mouth as well with lots of ripe tannins, and slightly low acid, making this a bit earthy and a less vibrant than usual, and it shows the heat of the vintage. The finish regains some freshness but the flavors remain fairly dark. 90pts
2011 Barale Barolo Bussia Riserva
Tight and focused on the nose with lightly floral top notes, mineral and bricky aromas all layered over sweetly medicinal and almost beefy aromas laced with herbal extracts. softer and broader on the palate than the previous wines with less cut but a bit more depth and definition in the mouth, really fine depth actually with ripe red plummy fruit and gently balsamic spice notes that linger on the moderately long and softly tannic finish. 91pts
Brovia
2011 Brovia Barolo 14.5%
Gorgeous nose packed with aromas of sandalwood, red fruit with a hint of a candied edge, and camphor. Cool and composed in the mouth, transparent and yet richly fruited with red cherry and a hint of darker slightly jammy blackberry fruit on the back palate. This is all seamlessly integrated and almost ready to go. Incipient truffle in the mouth, ripe tannins, good length, this is gorgeous, classic Barolo with lots of wild cherry and a finish gains some chalky austerity offering a fine counterpoint to all that fruit. A fabulous wine. 92pts
2011 Brovia Barolo Rocche 14 5%
Jammy strawberries on the nose and red licorice candy lend this a decidedly fruity aroma though the cut of limestone and hint of aromatic green herbs, green tobacco, camphor, and a hint of candied green apple offer a fine aromatic foil. Tense and focused in the mouth with fine grained tannins and that green apple streak showing up early on the palate which reveals gorgeous red wild cherry fruits that lack the candied quality found on the nose. This is a big wine, but with lacy tannins, fine acids, dusty limestone lengthens the finish. Another gorgeous wine which I expect will gain tension with several years in the bottle, but this is notable for the harmonious nature and length today. 94pts
2011 Brovia Barolo Villero 14.5%
Hints of figs and plums greet the nose followed by slightly dried and roasted fruits, incipient truffle, a little fungi, and top notes of camphor and menthol. Another big wine on entry though tight and reticent with a lovely mineral base, tight, fully ripe tannins, intact acids, and good length to the lingonberry and wild red berry flavors. Today this is more notable for the rosepetal inner mouth perfumes as its not that well knit together yet, tightening up on the finish. This needs more, time, and while as good or almost as good as the Rocche but a year behind, this strikes me as a bit riper and richer, which is not a positive in this case. Still this is quite complete and complex. 93pts
2011 Brovia Barolo Garblet Sue 14.5%
Gorgeous on the nose, complex and open with lots of slightly over ripe red fruits, mint, grasses, fennel, and iron layered and fascinating with all these seedy spice notes adding detail. Round on entry with soft tannins lending nice tension in the mouth before turning, slightly edgy through the finish. With air this turns a bit chunky and chewy, with dark fruited notes, prunes in alcohol, and a powerful, slightly hot finish.This could evolve positively but it seems to be showing the less attractive traits of the vintage. 92pts
2011 Brovia Barolo Brea Ca Mia 14.5%
Some medicinal herbs, dark plummy fruit and rosehips come together on the earthy, soil driven and slightly nutty nose. Cool and composed in the mouth with a layered, elegant feel. The flavors run to the earthy end of the spectrum though deep with ripe fruit that is bright and fresh if rich. This turns broad shouldered on the finish with nice strawberry tones, a little leather and anise. A hint of oak or something chestnutty dots the palate, which shows terrific balance and a gentle austerity and more well defined earthy fruit on the long finish. This really speaks to me of place. 93pts
Elvio Cogno
2011 Elvio Cogno Barolo Cascina Nuova 14.5%
Young vines in the vineyard. 15yo
This smells just like walking through the vineyard with aromas of wet soil, flowers, ozone, tobacco, red berry fruits, and rosehips. Fairly rich, if soft in the mouth which is all about red fruits, strawberries, red currant, red cherry, a little chalK and sage framing the flavors on the palate all supported by lots of ripe tannins. A lovely, joyful wine that beautifully pairs classic Nebbiolo fruit and tannins, simply a great introduction to true Barolo, with all the structure, weight, and power you could want in a fruity, yet traditional style. 90pts
2011 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera 14.5%
70 year old vines
Cherry pits, a bit of olive, almost caper-like but more olive brine on the nose, with tighter dried floral notes, rich aromas of licorice, over deep, earthy, clay like tones. This is a touch sweet on the nose, but cool on entry, rich but not thick nor heavy, with lots of depth and lovely nuance on the palate which shows great savory character again with the olive, capers, and some tobacco along with wild cherry and slightly cola toned fruit. Yes it sounds different, and it is but at the same time it is so well balanced with briery tannins reinforcing the savory charter and driving the salty finish. A real head turner. 93pts
Burlotto
2011 Burlotto Barolo 15%
Soil and woodland berries come together in a jammy, blackcurrant tinged nose that is lightly smoky and showing just a hint of capers. Bright, juicy, full and rich in the mouth, with fine grained tannins supporting huge woodland herb spice, sage, wild cherry and black currant flavors with a hint of underlying nuttiness. This retains really fine acids and is rather powerful with lovely tannic grip on the long finish. Not terrible nuanced but pure and with this finely restrained sense of power. This is terrific. 91pts
2011 Burlotto Barolo Acclivi 15%
A profound note of camphor and white soil greet the nose layered over a hint of a medicinal edge and astringent wild raspberry fruit. Intense yet focused in the mouth with powerful flavors of wild berries, spicy raspberries, mineral undertones and a fine hint of balsamic spice. More smoky and leaning towards dried fruit flavors not he long finish, this is long, elegant, and so fine showing no signs of a "hot" vintage. The fruit really lingers on the finale, covering the ripe sweet tannins beautifully, already in harmony, this should age beautifully. 93pts
2011 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi 15%
Focused and spicy on the nose with lovely perfumes of roses and reticent, slightly jammy red currant fruit flecked with hints of waxy lipstick, VA, and some decidedly nutty notes. Here you see a bit more of the vintage character, tannins are a bit drier, you feel the heat a bit, though there are lovely late arriving hints of green herbs and strawberry tops woven into a darker, more cherry toned palate. This gains some clarity on the nose and the palate but its chewy and a bit clumsy with less energy than the Verduno wines this year. 90pts
2011 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero 14.5%
Gorgeously explosive nose rich with red cherry and strawberry jam laced with thyme and already with hints of tapenade. On entry the acid is the first thing one notices, then an elegant and rich truffly and currant laced palate that is broad and deep, with real verve and energy. A tour de force of vibrancy and complexity already, this has a long savory finish, and while it closes up a little in the glass you are left with all sorts of aromatic herbs and hints of amir layered over a base of sweet fruit on the long finish. This will be ready soon and will be fabulous. 94pts
Ferdinando Principiano
2011 Ferdinando Principiano Barolo Seralunga 13.5%
Deep berry aromas and a little plum in alcohol are layered over notes of white soil and fine alpine flowers on the nose. This is very fresh in the mouth, all grassy and minty framed red fruits supported by ripe, fleshy tannins. perhaps a little gentle in the mouth, but clear and fresh with no sign of the heat of the vintage, and great energy in the mouth through the moderately long finish which shows more of a broad shouldered nature to this wine. 91pts
2011 Ferdinando Principiano Barolo Barolo Ravera 15%
Big blackberry fruit on the nose is nicely framed by notes of camphor, menthol, sand and salt,with some background cedary, hickory notes. Decidedly fruity on entry, this starts off a bit matte in the mouth with nice ripe tannins fleshing out powerful, dark yet fresh. In the mouth this remains dark, chewy, and powerful with tons of fruit fruit and deep, rich dark fruit flavors but there is no nuance yet. If any 2011 Barolo needs some serious cellaring it is this wine. There's lots of stuffing and tannins, even a touch of green tannins, here to resolve but this has great balance and even conceals its alcohol perfectly. Tough call. 92pts
Bruno Giacosa
2011 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto 14.7%
Curranty, truffly fruit pops on the intense nose. Considering this was a pop and pour this is very expressive today though with rather monotone fruit framed with hints of of mint and fennel. Menthol fresh on entry, with lovely acids in the mouth. Rich with soft tannins, that acid offers great cut supporting lots of limestone character which lends this a crisp, cool, and edgy feel. Gently spice through the palate, this is quite elegant and shows superb balance with great length to the final return of black cherry skin fruit. Fairly cool on the palate for a 2011, this is another big wine that holds its alcohol effortlessly and those noble tannins and limestone cut bode well for the future. I'de bet on this being terrific in 15 years time. 94pts
Oddero
2011 Oddero Barolo
All macerated herbs and bitter almond on the nose with nice soil base notes and a smoky top note, Round but not fruity, and ripe but not fruity, this is a bit simple but dark and rich in the classic vein with flavors that lean towards tarry and tree bark along with dark berry fruit all locked within a firm, austere structure. Absolutely classic barolo that demands patience. 89pts
2011 Oddero Barolo Villero
Opening with a hint of candied herb and cinnamon on the nose and a medicinal sweetness, this comes off as overly sweet on the nose. Almost sweet on entry as well, this is soft and supple with nice purity to the red berry fruit on the palate though there is a lot of gently peppery cinnamon on the moderately long finish which does highlight the touch of heat here. A bit short and a bit simple. 88pts
2011 Oddero Barolo Rocche
A powdered sugar sweetness lends the bold cherries jubilee aromas with all the orange peel, clove and brandy framing notes, a bit of a sticky note on the nose. Soft, rich and elegant in the mouth, one finds great purity on the palate here, with flavors that are similar to the nose with the same cherries jubilee character layered over sandalwood and burnished spice. A little minty accent lend freshness though the fruit turns leathery on the long finish that is driven by ripe but copious tannins. Great cut, good length, this is vibrant, youthful and structured, if a touch warm on the finish, though still quite a classic wine. 92pts
2011 Oddero Barolo Brunate
Sweetly spicy on the nose with underlying black cherry and spiced plum fruit. Perhaps a bit loose in the mouth, it could be that after all these powerful wines this is more gentle but this lacks some of the interest and detail found in the previous wine. Rich and round with good length to the burnished fruit flavors, nothing sticks out here, which lends this a seamless character, but at the same time there's not that much to grab one's attention. Perhaps this just needs more time. 89pts
2011 is going to be met with solid demand. Once consumers start to taste the wines there will be sufficient critical mass in getting the word out that I expect the prices realized by the 2010 to become the new normal. There will be demand from traditional channels, particularly restaurants that did not get what they needed or wanted from the 2010 vintage, as well as many new outlets that want to add these delicious and approachable wines to their lists. In addition we should not overlook the unsatisfied demand for 2010s from consumers. Those who were shut out or were unable to get all the 2010s they wanted will snatch up many of the 2011s that come their way.
And then there is the 2012 vintage. A short and variable vintage. Both 2010 and 2011 will have further increased the appetite for Barolo among consumers. That appetite will not be sated with 2012s, which might very well end up on close out in many cases. All this sets the stage for the final chapter in the Burgundification of Barolo: the release of the 2013s.
I don’t know what will happen between then and now but we do know that 2014 is not a great vintage. There will be surprises, but it’s a vintage closer to 2012 in quality than any other recent vintage. Unless 2015 proves to be manna from heaven, expect the wine media to be crowing to the rafters over the 2013s. They are after all great wines. Add this to the increased demand, and relative paucity of supply of great Barolo, and we will witness the end of Barolo as we have known it.
There will be plenty of Barolo to go around, and much of it damn fine, but the truly great producers will be priced on par with the truly great producers from Burgundy, which is the easiest comparison, but also from Bordeaux and Napa Valley where $500 bottles of wine apparently grow on trees, or vines as the case maybe.
So the prognosis is not great. While I do expect the patient to live, it will be a life not without impairments, which is just another reason to take advantage of the bounty of the 2011 vintage. There is plenty of wine to go around, the wines are great and promise to give so much pleasure for 20, 30, maybe even 40 years, so why wait for the next greatest ever? Shouldn’t magnificent suffice? I have previously tasted a bevy of 2011s which I reported on here: 2011 Barolo at Prowein, but I have to say that the wines of several producers tasted on my most recent trip to Piedmont standout as some of the stars of the vintage. I’ve said it before so it should come as no surprise but the wines of Fabio Alessandria at Burlotto are simply terrific, with even the base Barolo being outstanding in 2011. Ditto for Brovia, whose base Barolo 2011 is a must buy for any Nebbiolo lover. Other producers whose 2011s should not be missed for their blend of top quality and value include Elvio Cogno, Giacomo Fenocchio, Massolino, Guido Porro, and Gianni Canonica.
Top picks for Barolo 2011
2011 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Bussia 94pts
2011 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Francia 94pts
2011 Brovia Barolo Rocche 94ts
2011 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero 94pts
2011 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto 94pts
2011 Vietti Barolo Rocche 94pts
2011 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Cannubi 93pts
2011 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 93pts
2011 Guido Porro Barolo Lazzairasco 93pts
2011 Brovia Barolo Villero 93pts
2011 Brovia Barolo Brea Ca Mia 93pts
2011 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera 93pts
2011 Burlotto Barolo Acclivi 93pts
2011 G. D. Vajra Barolo Ravera 93pts
2011 Baudana Barolo Baudana 93pts
2011 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito 93pts
2011 Massolino Barolo Parafada 93pts
Value Superstars!
2011 Brovia Barolo 92pts
2011 Burlotto Barolo 91pts
2011 G. D. Vajra Barolo Albe 91pts
2011 Elvio Cogno Barolo Cascina Nuova 90pts
Tasting Notes
Giacomo Fenocchio
2011 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Castellero 15%
First vintage for this wine
Deep notes of fig, limestone, floral top notes, and a hint of nutty, gamy nuance greets the nose. Rather elegant on entry, with rather fine tannins, good acids, spicy minerality on the midpalate which shows light strawberry fruit, a touch short but nicely mineral on the somewhat modest finish which shows off some dusty tannins. There’s a little heat on finale with some toast and configure of wild cherry as well as all that strawberry fruit on the palate. 89pts
2011 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Cannubi 15%
Spiced cherries in alcohol topped with a lovely rosepetal and licorice laced medicinal note grace the nose. In the mouth this is rather austere on entry, focused with fine grained tannins, lending an elegant and well balanced feel. There’s a lovely core of richness here to the cherry skins and rose petal flavors in the mouth that paired with the good tension and limestone layering shows as a very classic presentation of Cannubi. The finish is focused and long with lovely jammy, rosepetal laced fruit on the finale. 93pts
2011 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Villero 14.5%
65 year old vines,
Jammy blackberry fruit pops from the glass followed by complicating notes of pine bark, a hint of dried mushroom, dusty clay, and frutti del bosco flavors.This is rich up front, with lively acids supporting that wild berry fruit as it’s laced with a hint of balsamic spice and sage on the palate. A lovely wine, with ripe tannins offering a generous feel in the mouth, classically structured, if a little chewy but complete with some mushroomy notes already on the rather long finish. 92pts
2011 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Bussia 15%
Intense macerated flowers with saffron notes greet the nose followed by a spicy and balsamic vein laid over the core of bitter cherry and dark berry fruit. Rather savory on the nose with a bit of spicy wood and some deep Lea & Perrins like notes adding complexity. On the palate this is powerful, an impressive wine, seamless and important with masses of fresh red cherry fruit layered over spice notes with a nuance of herbal inner mouth perfume. Powerful but so well balanced,rich with mineral notes on the finish where you can finally sense the firm tannins and lovely supporting acidity. this is the total package, 94pts
Gianni Canonica
2011 Gianni Canonica Barolo 15.41%
Deeply aromatic on the nose with gorgeous hints of mint, camphor, and cherry pits laid over raspberry fruit and white soil tones. Opening with bright and tart red fruits in the mouth, this shows the tension of dusty yet sweet tannins, and a hint of green fruit across the palate. Lovely and pure and long, if rich in alcohol, this is very finely balanced, retaining the delicacy of fruit, and delivering solid length and a feel that is super well knit and very linear for the vintage. and sweet tannins. 92pts
Cascina Bruni
2011 Cascina Bruni Barolo MariaLungo 14%
Deep on the nose which shows off a bit of blue flowers, smoky cedar wood and aromas of damp clay. Tight on entry with cherry and blackcurrant fruit that is a touch candied. Endowed with nicely ripe tannins, this comes off as a bit meaty on the palate, with fine density to the solid cherry fruit. The tannins here are already softening so this will most likely not need a ton of time though the structure is there for two decades ageing. The finish shows that the tannins retain a little spicy bite and the fruit gains some blue tones and lingonberry flavors on the modest finish. 88pts
E Pira Chiara Boschis
2011 E Pira Chiara Boschis Baolo Via Nuova 14.5%
Tight on the nose with light floral top notes and a hint of peppery-herbal spice. Bright, juicy and fresh in the mouth, this is lovely, with tannins that are ripe, acid a whisper low perhaps. but still vibrant enough, and with lovely depth on the palate. There’s a hint of cocoa here, framing the deep burnished cherry fruit that turns dusty on the finish, even a bit astringent as the wood tannins stick out just a it. A bit wooly and wild still, but this has a lot going on. 92pts
2011 E Pira Chiara Boschis Barolo Cannubi 14.5%
Smoky oak and cedary aromas top the strawberry and cranberry in alcohol aromas on the nose. Air brings out additional minty, nettle, and ricola detail but the oak is still quite noticeable. This comes off as a bit matte in the mouth with lovely Cannubi tannins lending cut and focus to the palate which is rich with strawberry and herb laced flavors. This shows off good length, finishing with austere tannins that are balanced and lend this focus in the mouth. While the oak should integrate nicely it is too noticeable today for my palate. 90pts
2011 E Pira Chiara Boschis Barolo Mosconi 14.5%
Rather exotic and intensely savory on the nose with smoky notes of ham, prosciutto, toasted nuts and deep green herbs coming together over dark, slightly plummy, date like fruit. This is plush, opulent and rich in the mouth with lots of dark, slightly stewy cherry and strawberry jam fruit. Rich with glycerine you can’t deny that this has a lovely texture, but that richness hides a lots of tannin, which peek out on the finish. Slick in the mouth in a style that should have plenty of fans but which is a bit too weighty for me. 90pts
Elio Grasso
2011 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera 14.5%
A bit leathery on the nose, savory and complex with a little roasted fennel, the Salumi notes of slavonian oak dried fruit leather, and even a little fish sauce. Well balanced on the palate with good acids keeping this fresh if the flavors are running more towards burnished fruit. Red apple skin emerge in the mouth, which is a little slippery and even silky on the palate, and this shows good depth, even if the fruit is a bit leathery, this is a hot zone after all. On the finish this shows a hint of heat with tannins that are a little raw, but the lingering maceration of rosepetals, wild strawberry in alcohol, and rosehips saturate the long finale. 91pts
2011 Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Casa Mate 14.5%
Peppery with herbal suggestions on the nose followed by notes of mineral water on the nose, a touch of carob hints of sandalwood and butchers wax, and then again a hint of white pepper. Texturally this is initially very impressive, supple and integrated, with lovely depth but it sits a bit low on the palate, more tannin emerges on the chewy backend, which shows off tobacco and floral nuance. With time this reveals itself as a rather tannic wine with tannins that are verging on dry and austere but remain just ripe and attractive, helping to frame the deep, focused palate. A bit of an outlier that is a touch short on the finish, this should be an interesting wine to follow over the years. 91pts
Bartolo Mascarello
2011 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 14.5%
Fairly deep and slightly spicy on the nose with a lovely base of wild cherry in alcohol and wild strawberry in alcohol aromas. Delicate on entry, this just rolls across the palate with great purity as notes of rose petals raspberry, and balsamic spices subtly weave a palate impression. Long,and finely textured, this shows off a really gorgeous tannin structure that is both supple and firm, bouncing flavors of wild strawberry and cranberries off the palate. Fresh and bright, this finishes with long, lingering tart red fruits. While I’m sure this will age and improve it is really almost ready to go. I would love to try this in six months and then in a year. 93pts
Tenuta Montanello
2011 Tenuta Montanello Barolo 15%
Very savory on the nose with a slightly cedary nose and a hint of vanilla and cocoa framing rosehips and raspberry aromas. On entry this is crisp and focused, if a bit lean considering the vintage and the alcohol but that is not necessarily a bad thing. On the palate there is nice fruit, a bit simple but nicely balanced, with a cool and compressed feel and a hint of austerity to the tannins. The fruit is subdued on the palate with nice hints of of balsamic character and a little cool menthol note that graces the modest finish. 87pts
Guido Porro
2011 Guido Porro Barolo Gianetto 14.5%
6000 bottles, 36 months in wood
Gorgeous on the nose man this smells good, candied but not sweet, with a bit of spicy woodspice layered in with chinato and medicinal aromas that recall cherry cough syrup a bit. Soft, round and rich in the mouth, though packed with hidden tannins, this shows off a lovely, fruity wild cherry midpalate that gains nuanced spice, soil, and peppery notes. With good acids and super balance this finishes with decent length to the lingering rosehip and sandalwood flavors. There is some wood that is noticeable here but I expect that to integrate rather quickly. 91pts
2011 Guido Porro Barolo Santa Caterina 15%
Deep cherry fruit greets the nose, gaining an earthy edge with hints of dried orange peel, and a bit prune in alcohol. Suave, rich and smooth in the mouth with plenty of soft tannins and good acids this stays lively in the mouth with fine herbal, fennel, rose petal, and arugula nuance,. A bit tight on the long finish which shows classic austerity to the tannins, this remains well balanced with alcohol that is nicely concealed on the long finish but lacks a bit of energy in the mouth. 90pts
2011 Guido Porro Barolo Lazzairasco 14.5%
Classic nose of Lazzairasco with hints of mint and carob framing the core of clear, pure slightly stony, cherry fruit, with an almost chocolatey, cocoa tinged earthy top note. While showing great ripeness on the nose , the palate here is notably fresh with bright acidity lending more freshness to the raspberry and rosepetal flavors in the mouth. Hints of mint, cinnamon, tar, and licorice emerge on the long, well defined finish. This is a super wine, elegant with ripe tannins, great persistence to the fresh fruit, a little powerhouse of ripeness but with detail, clarity, a little spice, and some warmth. This is impressive. 93pts
Giacomo Conterno
2011 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Francia 14.5%
Intensely pure and fruitily aromatic on the nose which shows of small wild cherry fruit framed with spicy grace notes, and hints of black tea. On entry noble tannins lend a nice framing edge to the fruit, rich in small burnished cherry tones, and exhibiting lovely tension through the long bright acid driven finish. There’s lovely balance and freshness here with an intensity and purity of fruit that is rare. Graceful and elegant for both the vineyard and the vintage, this will, not surprisingly, age exceptionally well within the context of the vintage. The balance is just so fine already. Perhaps not at the level of 2010 but superb none the less. 94pts
2011 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cerretta 14.5%
Hugely fruity nose redolent with darker cherry and almost blackberry and plum aromas framed with a hint of smoke and candied, almost vanilla basenotes. Plump, round, and transparent in the mouth this displays softer tannins than the Francia, and while less structured, this remains rather firm in the mouth. Not as well integrated through the finish, here one finds a drier finish, spicy length, with hint of heat on the finale. A powerful and dense fruit graces the core of this wine, with broader shoulders, this is a bit more of a brute than the Francia with tannins that really build here, making this rather chewy with lovely spicy notes through the long finish. More stuffing, more of everything perhaps, but not necessarily better. 92pts
Fratelli Barale
2011 Barale Barolo 13.5%
Jammy, with a full on lingonberry nose, a balsamic underlay, and accents of clay and a little waft of cigar smoke. Juicy, rich in fruit, and powerful in the mouth, this shows fine balance between the juicy acids and ripe, soft tannins. A hint of astringent fruit in the mouth shows the freshness here, with lovely tarry and tart red fruit flavors. Perhaps a little chunky and a touch simple on the palate, but immediately approachable. 89pts
2011 Barale Barolo Castellero
Meaty, beefy, and plummy on the nose with a hint of VA.The fruit really pops with air revealing aromas of freshly sliced if slightly ruined plums. Rich in the mouth, glycerine rich, a bit plummy in the mouth as well with lots of ripe tannins, and slightly low acid, making this a bit earthy and a less vibrant than usual, and it shows the heat of the vintage. The finish regains some freshness but the flavors remain fairly dark. 90pts
2011 Barale Barolo Bussia Riserva
Tight and focused on the nose with lightly floral top notes, mineral and bricky aromas all layered over sweetly medicinal and almost beefy aromas laced with herbal extracts. softer and broader on the palate than the previous wines with less cut but a bit more depth and definition in the mouth, really fine depth actually with ripe red plummy fruit and gently balsamic spice notes that linger on the moderately long and softly tannic finish. 91pts
Brovia
2011 Brovia Barolo 14.5%
Gorgeous nose packed with aromas of sandalwood, red fruit with a hint of a candied edge, and camphor. Cool and composed in the mouth, transparent and yet richly fruited with red cherry and a hint of darker slightly jammy blackberry fruit on the back palate. This is all seamlessly integrated and almost ready to go. Incipient truffle in the mouth, ripe tannins, good length, this is gorgeous, classic Barolo with lots of wild cherry and a finish gains some chalky austerity offering a fine counterpoint to all that fruit. A fabulous wine. 92pts
2011 Brovia Barolo Rocche 14 5%
Jammy strawberries on the nose and red licorice candy lend this a decidedly fruity aroma though the cut of limestone and hint of aromatic green herbs, green tobacco, camphor, and a hint of candied green apple offer a fine aromatic foil. Tense and focused in the mouth with fine grained tannins and that green apple streak showing up early on the palate which reveals gorgeous red wild cherry fruits that lack the candied quality found on the nose. This is a big wine, but with lacy tannins, fine acids, dusty limestone lengthens the finish. Another gorgeous wine which I expect will gain tension with several years in the bottle, but this is notable for the harmonious nature and length today. 94pts
2011 Brovia Barolo Villero 14.5%
Hints of figs and plums greet the nose followed by slightly dried and roasted fruits, incipient truffle, a little fungi, and top notes of camphor and menthol. Another big wine on entry though tight and reticent with a lovely mineral base, tight, fully ripe tannins, intact acids, and good length to the lingonberry and wild red berry flavors. Today this is more notable for the rosepetal inner mouth perfumes as its not that well knit together yet, tightening up on the finish. This needs more, time, and while as good or almost as good as the Rocche but a year behind, this strikes me as a bit riper and richer, which is not a positive in this case. Still this is quite complete and complex. 93pts
2011 Brovia Barolo Garblet Sue 14.5%
Gorgeous on the nose, complex and open with lots of slightly over ripe red fruits, mint, grasses, fennel, and iron layered and fascinating with all these seedy spice notes adding detail. Round on entry with soft tannins lending nice tension in the mouth before turning, slightly edgy through the finish. With air this turns a bit chunky and chewy, with dark fruited notes, prunes in alcohol, and a powerful, slightly hot finish.This could evolve positively but it seems to be showing the less attractive traits of the vintage. 92pts
2011 Brovia Barolo Brea Ca Mia 14.5%
Some medicinal herbs, dark plummy fruit and rosehips come together on the earthy, soil driven and slightly nutty nose. Cool and composed in the mouth with a layered, elegant feel. The flavors run to the earthy end of the spectrum though deep with ripe fruit that is bright and fresh if rich. This turns broad shouldered on the finish with nice strawberry tones, a little leather and anise. A hint of oak or something chestnutty dots the palate, which shows terrific balance and a gentle austerity and more well defined earthy fruit on the long finish. This really speaks to me of place. 93pts
Elvio Cogno
2011 Elvio Cogno Barolo Cascina Nuova 14.5%
Young vines in the vineyard. 15yo
This smells just like walking through the vineyard with aromas of wet soil, flowers, ozone, tobacco, red berry fruits, and rosehips. Fairly rich, if soft in the mouth which is all about red fruits, strawberries, red currant, red cherry, a little chalK and sage framing the flavors on the palate all supported by lots of ripe tannins. A lovely, joyful wine that beautifully pairs classic Nebbiolo fruit and tannins, simply a great introduction to true Barolo, with all the structure, weight, and power you could want in a fruity, yet traditional style. 90pts
2011 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera 14.5%
70 year old vines
Cherry pits, a bit of olive, almost caper-like but more olive brine on the nose, with tighter dried floral notes, rich aromas of licorice, over deep, earthy, clay like tones. This is a touch sweet on the nose, but cool on entry, rich but not thick nor heavy, with lots of depth and lovely nuance on the palate which shows great savory character again with the olive, capers, and some tobacco along with wild cherry and slightly cola toned fruit. Yes it sounds different, and it is but at the same time it is so well balanced with briery tannins reinforcing the savory charter and driving the salty finish. A real head turner. 93pts
Burlotto
2011 Burlotto Barolo 15%
Soil and woodland berries come together in a jammy, blackcurrant tinged nose that is lightly smoky and showing just a hint of capers. Bright, juicy, full and rich in the mouth, with fine grained tannins supporting huge woodland herb spice, sage, wild cherry and black currant flavors with a hint of underlying nuttiness. This retains really fine acids and is rather powerful with lovely tannic grip on the long finish. Not terrible nuanced but pure and with this finely restrained sense of power. This is terrific. 91pts
2011 Burlotto Barolo Acclivi 15%
A profound note of camphor and white soil greet the nose layered over a hint of a medicinal edge and astringent wild raspberry fruit. Intense yet focused in the mouth with powerful flavors of wild berries, spicy raspberries, mineral undertones and a fine hint of balsamic spice. More smoky and leaning towards dried fruit flavors not he long finish, this is long, elegant, and so fine showing no signs of a "hot" vintage. The fruit really lingers on the finale, covering the ripe sweet tannins beautifully, already in harmony, this should age beautifully. 93pts
2011 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi 15%
Focused and spicy on the nose with lovely perfumes of roses and reticent, slightly jammy red currant fruit flecked with hints of waxy lipstick, VA, and some decidedly nutty notes. Here you see a bit more of the vintage character, tannins are a bit drier, you feel the heat a bit, though there are lovely late arriving hints of green herbs and strawberry tops woven into a darker, more cherry toned palate. This gains some clarity on the nose and the palate but its chewy and a bit clumsy with less energy than the Verduno wines this year. 90pts
2011 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero 14.5%
Gorgeously explosive nose rich with red cherry and strawberry jam laced with thyme and already with hints of tapenade. On entry the acid is the first thing one notices, then an elegant and rich truffly and currant laced palate that is broad and deep, with real verve and energy. A tour de force of vibrancy and complexity already, this has a long savory finish, and while it closes up a little in the glass you are left with all sorts of aromatic herbs and hints of amir layered over a base of sweet fruit on the long finish. This will be ready soon and will be fabulous. 94pts
Ferdinando Principiano
2011 Ferdinando Principiano Barolo Seralunga 13.5%
Deep berry aromas and a little plum in alcohol are layered over notes of white soil and fine alpine flowers on the nose. This is very fresh in the mouth, all grassy and minty framed red fruits supported by ripe, fleshy tannins. perhaps a little gentle in the mouth, but clear and fresh with no sign of the heat of the vintage, and great energy in the mouth through the moderately long finish which shows more of a broad shouldered nature to this wine. 91pts
2011 Ferdinando Principiano Barolo Barolo Ravera 15%
Big blackberry fruit on the nose is nicely framed by notes of camphor, menthol, sand and salt,with some background cedary, hickory notes. Decidedly fruity on entry, this starts off a bit matte in the mouth with nice ripe tannins fleshing out powerful, dark yet fresh. In the mouth this remains dark, chewy, and powerful with tons of fruit fruit and deep, rich dark fruit flavors but there is no nuance yet. If any 2011 Barolo needs some serious cellaring it is this wine. There's lots of stuffing and tannins, even a touch of green tannins, here to resolve but this has great balance and even conceals its alcohol perfectly. Tough call. 92pts
Bruno Giacosa
2011 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto 14.7%
Curranty, truffly fruit pops on the intense nose. Considering this was a pop and pour this is very expressive today though with rather monotone fruit framed with hints of of mint and fennel. Menthol fresh on entry, with lovely acids in the mouth. Rich with soft tannins, that acid offers great cut supporting lots of limestone character which lends this a crisp, cool, and edgy feel. Gently spice through the palate, this is quite elegant and shows superb balance with great length to the final return of black cherry skin fruit. Fairly cool on the palate for a 2011, this is another big wine that holds its alcohol effortlessly and those noble tannins and limestone cut bode well for the future. I'de bet on this being terrific in 15 years time. 94pts
Oddero
2011 Oddero Barolo
All macerated herbs and bitter almond on the nose with nice soil base notes and a smoky top note, Round but not fruity, and ripe but not fruity, this is a bit simple but dark and rich in the classic vein with flavors that lean towards tarry and tree bark along with dark berry fruit all locked within a firm, austere structure. Absolutely classic barolo that demands patience. 89pts
2011 Oddero Barolo Villero
Opening with a hint of candied herb and cinnamon on the nose and a medicinal sweetness, this comes off as overly sweet on the nose. Almost sweet on entry as well, this is soft and supple with nice purity to the red berry fruit on the palate though there is a lot of gently peppery cinnamon on the moderately long finish which does highlight the touch of heat here. A bit short and a bit simple. 88pts
2011 Oddero Barolo Rocche
A powdered sugar sweetness lends the bold cherries jubilee aromas with all the orange peel, clove and brandy framing notes, a bit of a sticky note on the nose. Soft, rich and elegant in the mouth, one finds great purity on the palate here, with flavors that are similar to the nose with the same cherries jubilee character layered over sandalwood and burnished spice. A little minty accent lend freshness though the fruit turns leathery on the long finish that is driven by ripe but copious tannins. Great cut, good length, this is vibrant, youthful and structured, if a touch warm on the finish, though still quite a classic wine. 92pts
2011 Oddero Barolo Brunate
Sweetly spicy on the nose with underlying black cherry and spiced plum fruit. Perhaps a bit loose in the mouth, it could be that after all these powerful wines this is more gentle but this lacks some of the interest and detail found in the previous wine. Rich and round with good length to the burnished fruit flavors, nothing sticks out here, which lends this a seamless character, but at the same time there's not that much to grab one's attention. Perhaps this just needs more time. 89pts