Dominio Buenavista - Veleta Wines - Pioneering Spirit
It’s not often that I write about Spanish wines, this is in fact being the first time I’ve done so in years. It’s not because I do not like Spanish wines, but rather because there are many other writers more committed, and more immersed in Spanish wine than I am, and I am happy to follow their work. Writing about wine often requires more than the ability to taste and write. It requires perspective, a historical framework within which to comment intelligently about current releases and a bit of geological knowledge.
This is particular true when it comes to the most famous regions of Spain. Rioja, Priorat, Ribera Sacra, etc. They all have histories and terroirs that need to be understood if they are to be explained, and they certainly need to be explained if the wines are to be understood. But what happens when something new is created. Where the will of a man and a woman, has forced something to burst on to the scene where nothing similar had previously existed.
That is the case with Dominio Buenavista, home of Veleta wines, and what happens is a certain liberty to explore without prejudice or bias.
While I have not followed the work of Nola and Juan Palomar from the very beginning, which would stretch back only to 1992 when they planted the first vines at the familial estate of the Palomar family, I have been fortunate to have tried the wines from some of the earliest vintages. Additional vineyards were planted throughout the 1990s with a winery finally coming into production only in 1999 making earlier vintages also not that old.
I first met both Nola and Juan in a small Spanish restaurant in New York City where we tried a few of the recent releases. That was almost a decade ago in 2008. Over the years more than a few examples of Veleta wines have crossed my path. The quality of the wines has moved from strength to strength, while the range simultaneously has expanded. From a quartet of early wines Veleta’s portfolio has now expanded to include a dozen wines featuring a pair of sparkling wines as well as a selection of reds, whites, a rose, and even dessert wines that each offer value. Their secret? Besides passion and skill, credit must be given where credit is due.
The dirt.
This is particular true when it comes to the most famous regions of Spain. Rioja, Priorat, Ribera Sacra, etc. They all have histories and terroirs that need to be understood if they are to be explained, and they certainly need to be explained if the wines are to be understood. But what happens when something new is created. Where the will of a man and a woman, has forced something to burst on to the scene where nothing similar had previously existed.
That is the case with Dominio Buenavista, home of Veleta wines, and what happens is a certain liberty to explore without prejudice or bias.
While I have not followed the work of Nola and Juan Palomar from the very beginning, which would stretch back only to 1992 when they planted the first vines at the familial estate of the Palomar family, I have been fortunate to have tried the wines from some of the earliest vintages. Additional vineyards were planted throughout the 1990s with a winery finally coming into production only in 1999 making earlier vintages also not that old.
I first met both Nola and Juan in a small Spanish restaurant in New York City where we tried a few of the recent releases. That was almost a decade ago in 2008. Over the years more than a few examples of Veleta wines have crossed my path. The quality of the wines has moved from strength to strength, while the range simultaneously has expanded. From a quartet of early wines Veleta’s portfolio has now expanded to include a dozen wines featuring a pair of sparkling wines as well as a selection of reds, whites, a rose, and even dessert wines that each offer value. Their secret? Besides passion and skill, credit must be given where credit is due.
The dirt.
The province of Granada is not known as a particularly distinguished wine-producing region. That may very well be more of a logistical problem as opposed to a question of terroir. The slice of Spain where one finds Dominio Buenavista is a relatively remote strip of land buffered to the north by the Sierra Nevada mountains and laying some 20 or so miles from the Mediterranean sea. With few major populations centers nearby, the market for the wines of the region have remained local for millennia. While we may not be familiar with the wines of Grenada, we might all owe them a debt of gratitude, as this is one of the regions of the world where wild vines were domesticated, according to reports in this case, some 4,500 years ago!
The vineyards of Dominio Buenavista are carved out of the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains, planted in orange tinged soils of clay and slate located above 650 meters (2200 feet) in elevation. The altitude keeps the climate here temperate and the proximity to the Sierra Nevadas provides spring season rains that fill reservoirs, which in turn keep the vines healthy through the typical drought months of summer. Low-level stress during the growing seasons, and mineral rich soils provides these wines with the verve and nuance that they typically display.
Winemaking is unremarkable, further proof that whatever makes these wines so compelling occurs in the vineyard and not in the cellar. Stainless steel is used for both red and white fermentation, with red wines fermenting in both traditional vertical tanks as well as roto fermenters not used in an abusive manner, as they are typically rolled over just twice a day. Malo occurs in stainless as well and the clear wine is transferred to barriques of both American and French oak for ageing.
The problem with writing about these wines and that which affords me the opening to do so, is that there is no history to draw from. Tempranillo is not uncommon here, though it might be rare as it certainly is in this style, rich, powerful wines for ageing. On the other hand Cabernet Sauvignon and the other Bordelaise varieties are rare and recent here. Not only with Veleta wines but also in the region in general. It is a bit of a challenge understanding the Veleta wines, particularly the Cabernet based wines, but what does shine through in almost all the wines, making them easy to at least recommend, is a nervosity, a tension, and brightness that is unusual in Cabernet, but particularly unusual in wines, all wines, that are making 15% alcohol, if not more.
Yes these are ripe wines, but without the fatal flaw of so many ripe wines. There is no flab here, no jamminess, no tiring wall of fruit. There is instead, earthiness, liveliness and freshness. It is an impressive moment, that moment when you’re sloshing around that 15% Cabernet in your mouth and you think of its transparency and cut. It doesn’t happen all that frequently, so when it does it’s surprising!
Which is not to say that Juan and Nola have figured everything out, vinously speaking. There are still the powerful tannins of Tempranillo that sometimes can get a bit out of scale, and the use of oak perhaps can be dialed in a touch more subtly in some wines, but in general these are compelling wines, unique and with a distinct profile worth any wine lover's attention.
A final thought regarding these wines. Some, but not all, have textures that I find utterly compelling. Wine, at the end of the day, is meant to be consumed and enjoyed, which to me usually dictates that there's food involved. These are some terrific food wines. I particularly liked the Brut Rosado, 2015 Vijriega, 2008 Tempranillo and 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, not only for their flavor profiles, but also for the way they interacted with food. These are wines that keep you coming back for another sip and enhance the dining experience; utility that is often overlooked when reading about wine
The vineyards of Dominio Buenavista are carved out of the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains, planted in orange tinged soils of clay and slate located above 650 meters (2200 feet) in elevation. The altitude keeps the climate here temperate and the proximity to the Sierra Nevadas provides spring season rains that fill reservoirs, which in turn keep the vines healthy through the typical drought months of summer. Low-level stress during the growing seasons, and mineral rich soils provides these wines with the verve and nuance that they typically display.
Winemaking is unremarkable, further proof that whatever makes these wines so compelling occurs in the vineyard and not in the cellar. Stainless steel is used for both red and white fermentation, with red wines fermenting in both traditional vertical tanks as well as roto fermenters not used in an abusive manner, as they are typically rolled over just twice a day. Malo occurs in stainless as well and the clear wine is transferred to barriques of both American and French oak for ageing.
The problem with writing about these wines and that which affords me the opening to do so, is that there is no history to draw from. Tempranillo is not uncommon here, though it might be rare as it certainly is in this style, rich, powerful wines for ageing. On the other hand Cabernet Sauvignon and the other Bordelaise varieties are rare and recent here. Not only with Veleta wines but also in the region in general. It is a bit of a challenge understanding the Veleta wines, particularly the Cabernet based wines, but what does shine through in almost all the wines, making them easy to at least recommend, is a nervosity, a tension, and brightness that is unusual in Cabernet, but particularly unusual in wines, all wines, that are making 15% alcohol, if not more.
Yes these are ripe wines, but without the fatal flaw of so many ripe wines. There is no flab here, no jamminess, no tiring wall of fruit. There is instead, earthiness, liveliness and freshness. It is an impressive moment, that moment when you’re sloshing around that 15% Cabernet in your mouth and you think of its transparency and cut. It doesn’t happen all that frequently, so when it does it’s surprising!
Which is not to say that Juan and Nola have figured everything out, vinously speaking. There are still the powerful tannins of Tempranillo that sometimes can get a bit out of scale, and the use of oak perhaps can be dialed in a touch more subtly in some wines, but in general these are compelling wines, unique and with a distinct profile worth any wine lover's attention.
A final thought regarding these wines. Some, but not all, have textures that I find utterly compelling. Wine, at the end of the day, is meant to be consumed and enjoyed, which to me usually dictates that there's food involved. These are some terrific food wines. I particularly liked the Brut Rosado, 2015 Vijriega, 2008 Tempranillo and 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, not only for their flavor profiles, but also for the way they interacted with food. These are wines that keep you coming back for another sip and enhance the dining experience; utility that is often overlooked when reading about wine
2015 Veleta Vijiriega “Viji” 13.5%
100% Vijiriega
Notably fragrant though in an austere register with polleny floral notes, a touch of quite spicy, almond laced quince with a touch of guava toned fruit all laid over a base of dusty blue mineral aromas. With air the spice element becomes more pronounced and slightly sweeter, recalling allspice and spiced apple pie. In the mouth this offers a really fine texture that pits robust acidity against a leesy richness that lends almost a creamy edge to the midpalate. Mineral and orchard fruit toned, the flavors remain true to the aromatics here, though the minerality is more pronounced than the spice on the palate, lending a piercing vein of vivacity to the midpalate that continues through the decidedly long finish. This is terrific today but strikes me as wine that could age very well. Will it follow the path of a Riesling, with which there is some similarity, or more like an Albarino, which this increasingly resembles as the minerality becomes saltier with air. Either way a fascinating wine. 92pts
2014 Veleta Tempranillo Joven 14.5%
Aged 3 months in a blend of French and American barriques
The oak definitely is obvious upon opening here, lending this some butter and spice notes intertwined with spicy dark cherry fruit on the nose. Light, as befits a Joven, though this remains a bit aggressive and tannic in the mouth. Food would be in order here, and the light cherry fruit, bright acidity and firm tannins scream out for grilled red meats, simply herb freshened lamb chops would do the trick. Without food this is a bit awkward and chunky, though with good length and decent richness though I would prefer to see a less aggressive tannin profile with such a juicy, fresh wine. 83pts
2009 Veleta Tempranillo 15%
Aged 12 months in a blend of French and American barriques
Dusty and decidedly more nuanced on the nose than the recent Joven above. Here on find incipient notes of leather and sweet spice recalling licorice and violets all layered under earthy, clay tinged, dark berry fruit. Rich and slightly polished on entry, this has terrific acids and tannins that while robust are not terribly hard supporting a core of mineral tinged black berry fruit. This has fine energy and surprising transparency in the mouth with rich fruit playing off the distinct mineral notes that grace the midpalate and flow through the moderately long finish The tannins here would benefit from food as well, but the wine is in balance and offers lovely complexity so a glass or two served before a fine roast or stew would do just fine. The alcohol is slightly intrusive on the finale but pretty well integrated across the palate. I expect this to improve for another 3-6 years at least. 88pts
2008 Veleta Tempranillo 14%
Aged 12 months in a blend of French and American barriques
Here as well on finds a sweet spice character on the nose, the vanilla more pronounced here and lending this a more Spanish quality though here too the sweet licorice and violet floral note top a core of fruit. In this case there is a more red fruit than black, very cherried, with fine leather and cigar tobacco notes filling in the edges. In the mouth, this is quite open with tannins that are present but well integrated, fine and decidedly less crude than the previous wines, which strikes more as vintage variation than simple ageing influence. Gorgeous on the palate, this is vibrant with an almost silky edge to the very fresh and zesty fruit that dominates the palate. A hint of minerality appears later and leads to a modest finish, a touch dusty with suggestions of tobacco lending detail. Refined and almost elegant, this has definitely entered its plateau of maturity, though remaining youthful. I love the transparency here and the wine’s zesty freshness with a finish that just gains length and detail with air. 91pts
2009 Veleta Tempranillo Privilegio 15%
A blend of Tempranillo and Graciano aged 24 months in a blend of French and American barriques
Dark and almost tarry on the nose with less of the sweetness and spice one finds in the base Tempranillo. Here there are more layered, earthy at first before turning quite floral with more of a caramel oak tone and some fine cigar box notes. Rich and decidedly different than the base Tempranillo; this shows polish and richness, it's not elegant per se, retain an air of rusticity, but it is refined. There rather rich fruit, black fruit, on the palate with tannins that are polished and fine. Well-balanced acids lend the dark leather fruit freshness across the palate and some drive the finish, which is rich, spicy, and chewy if not terribly long. This is a more interesting wine than the base Tempranillo of the same vintage, showing more refinement and nuance, but it lacks the sheer energy of the 2008 Tempranillo and the joy of that wine. This does have a nice tannic bite, which might be seen as aggressive by some, but should age quite well. 90pts
2013 Veleta Cabernet Sauvignon Roble 15%
Aged 3 months in a blend of French and American barriques
Aromatically this shares more with the previous wines than with Cabernet Sauvignon per se. There’s a hint of rubberiness here along with a nuanced and layered oak influence lending spice to black fruit that shows hints of burnt marshmallow and black licorice. Air does bring out some black currant fruit. On entry this is lovely, moderately rich, decidedly fruity in a black berry black currant way with gentle suggestions of green herbs lending freshness. Big yet fresh in the mouth, the tannins here are fine grained and rounded, if remaining firm, with fine underlying acidity lending freshness to the dark fruit. It's a very interesting wine, with flavors that are quite ripe yet a character that is rather bright and fresh. A joyful little Cabernet Sauvignon, words that I tend to not associate with Cabernet Sauvignon! It’s not complicated, but it’s not simple either. Really hits a sweet spot for me. Ready to drink fresh and juicy Cabernet that displays no sins of jamminess or anonymity. 87pts
2010 Veleta Cabernet Sauvignon 15%
Aged 12 months in a blend of French and American barriques
Subtle and showing some evolution already, the nose is graced by early notes of cigar box, tobacco, braised greens, and a lovely base of tar, bitter black cherries and black currant fruit. Silky and refined on entry, this is already in a very sweet spot, with youthful fruit and softening tannins all melting into a rich, almost lush save for the juicy acidity, pure and transparent palate. There's some apple peel notes here on the palate which are a little unusual, perhaps more bruised apple than skins but definitely apply edges to the core of bright red fruit. Precise and clean through the long finish, this is a lovely glass of wine with a slightly raw feel to it. To me this speaks more of Veleta than Cabernet Sauvignon in many ways, which help ring the qualities of the Dominio Buenavista terroir into sharper focus. 88pts
2010 Veleta Nolados 15%
40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc and 20% Tempranillo
Aged 12 months in a blend of French and American barriques
Dense, earthy, funky and sweetly spicy on the nose, this really blossoms in the glass. The oak treatment here keeps this aromatically in the Veleta family though with plenty of slightly herbal tinged black fruit to keep things well balanced. On the palate this is even more elegant than the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, with tannins that are finer and much greater detail on the palate. Rich yet fresh black and red fruit show hints of dried mushroom, leather, tobacco, and dried spice notes that linger on the long finish. There's a lightness here, possibly from the Cabernet Franc, and the complexity from the Tempranillo that elevates this above most of the varietal wines here. Very well integrated with succulence and attractive detail across the palate and through the long, detailed finish. 91pts
NV Veleta Sparkling Brut Blanco 12%
80 % Vijiriega, 20% Chardonnay
Minimum 12 months on the lees
Quite assertively aromatic with aromas of ground wheat, baked brioche, bitter almonds and polleny flowers. Very subtle and fine mousse, with bright acids lending this clarity and freshness in the mouth where yeasty flavors dominate the early palate. There’s almost a hint of mintiness here lending additional freshness and detail to the tart apple fruit and almondy notes of the midpalate. Rather dry, or at least coming off as dry due to the fine acidity here, though I think this is quite dry, it’s a lovely, fresh sparkling wine that comes off as 80% Cava with a 20% dose of sparkling Chenin added. There's an earthiness and almost lanolin character, perhaps more like beeswax, that reminds me a bit of Chenin here. Good length and persistence to the fine mousse. It has a bitter character on the finale that might be off-putting to some but comes of as rather complete today. 87pts
NV Veleta Sparkling Brut Rosé 12%
Tempranillo and Garnacha
Minimum 12 months on the lees
Peppery and slightly herbal on the nose with distinct aromas of red fruit and an underlying cola/pruny sweetness. This comes off as less dry than the Brut Blanco but is fuller on the palate with more assertive flavors. Slightly leather red cherry flavors grace the palate, which shares the fine mousse of the Brut Blanco. This is terrific and is a sparkling red that would be fabulous with food, something with bacon playing a supporting role perhaps. The cola note from the nose does come through on the palate as well, with fine mineral notes helping to frame the slightly leathery fruit flavors. I love the juxtaposition of slightly evolved flavors with the vibrancy and freshness this displays on the palate. There's a subtle creaminess leading to the finish here, which is a bit brief but so fresh. 89pts
NV Veleta Sweet Melodies 11%
100% Viognier
Very subtle on the nose with hints of honeysuckle, Asian pear, and bitter melon. Rather gently sweet in the mouth, remaining light and fresh on the palate with flavors that mimic the nose. This is a subtle and delicate sweet wine which features nuanced flavors that play off the gently sweet nature of the wine and the hint of polyphenolic bitterness that helps to highlight the fruit flavors. Delicate, easy to drink, but a bit simple and short. It’s not really a dessert wine, but I would rather use this with foie gras and other dishes that work well with a gently sweet wine. 86pts
NV Veleta Don Miguel 16%
A selection of late harvested Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot
Aged 24 months in a blend of French and American barriques
This Is unusual. It smells like a red wine, powerfully fruity but with a strong, if integrated, oak element lending spice to the jammy black currant, prune, and blackberry aromas of the nose, it smells a little like Napa Cabernet. In the mouth this is obviously note Napa Cabernet. It’s mildly sweet within the dessert wine spectrum, high acid, fresh, and complex. There’s an underlying truffly, nutty element lending this real complexity that is layered with peppery spice, dark, candied, but not sticky fruit, baking spices and leather and dried tobacco nuances. The finish is terrific as the wine sheds most of its sweetness and reveals a more intense core of earthy, spicy, and candied fruit flavors that are fresh and vivid through the long finish. This is really not very sweet, which makes it ideally sweet for my palate. Break out the cheese board, or dried cakes and cookies to pair with this. Perhaps not the greatest dessert wine on the market today, though this is one of the most food friendly and flexible examples of dessert wines I’ve yet to come across. 91pts
100% Vijiriega
Notably fragrant though in an austere register with polleny floral notes, a touch of quite spicy, almond laced quince with a touch of guava toned fruit all laid over a base of dusty blue mineral aromas. With air the spice element becomes more pronounced and slightly sweeter, recalling allspice and spiced apple pie. In the mouth this offers a really fine texture that pits robust acidity against a leesy richness that lends almost a creamy edge to the midpalate. Mineral and orchard fruit toned, the flavors remain true to the aromatics here, though the minerality is more pronounced than the spice on the palate, lending a piercing vein of vivacity to the midpalate that continues through the decidedly long finish. This is terrific today but strikes me as wine that could age very well. Will it follow the path of a Riesling, with which there is some similarity, or more like an Albarino, which this increasingly resembles as the minerality becomes saltier with air. Either way a fascinating wine. 92pts
2014 Veleta Tempranillo Joven 14.5%
Aged 3 months in a blend of French and American barriques
The oak definitely is obvious upon opening here, lending this some butter and spice notes intertwined with spicy dark cherry fruit on the nose. Light, as befits a Joven, though this remains a bit aggressive and tannic in the mouth. Food would be in order here, and the light cherry fruit, bright acidity and firm tannins scream out for grilled red meats, simply herb freshened lamb chops would do the trick. Without food this is a bit awkward and chunky, though with good length and decent richness though I would prefer to see a less aggressive tannin profile with such a juicy, fresh wine. 83pts
2009 Veleta Tempranillo 15%
Aged 12 months in a blend of French and American barriques
Dusty and decidedly more nuanced on the nose than the recent Joven above. Here on find incipient notes of leather and sweet spice recalling licorice and violets all layered under earthy, clay tinged, dark berry fruit. Rich and slightly polished on entry, this has terrific acids and tannins that while robust are not terribly hard supporting a core of mineral tinged black berry fruit. This has fine energy and surprising transparency in the mouth with rich fruit playing off the distinct mineral notes that grace the midpalate and flow through the moderately long finish The tannins here would benefit from food as well, but the wine is in balance and offers lovely complexity so a glass or two served before a fine roast or stew would do just fine. The alcohol is slightly intrusive on the finale but pretty well integrated across the palate. I expect this to improve for another 3-6 years at least. 88pts
2008 Veleta Tempranillo 14%
Aged 12 months in a blend of French and American barriques
Here as well on finds a sweet spice character on the nose, the vanilla more pronounced here and lending this a more Spanish quality though here too the sweet licorice and violet floral note top a core of fruit. In this case there is a more red fruit than black, very cherried, with fine leather and cigar tobacco notes filling in the edges. In the mouth, this is quite open with tannins that are present but well integrated, fine and decidedly less crude than the previous wines, which strikes more as vintage variation than simple ageing influence. Gorgeous on the palate, this is vibrant with an almost silky edge to the very fresh and zesty fruit that dominates the palate. A hint of minerality appears later and leads to a modest finish, a touch dusty with suggestions of tobacco lending detail. Refined and almost elegant, this has definitely entered its plateau of maturity, though remaining youthful. I love the transparency here and the wine’s zesty freshness with a finish that just gains length and detail with air. 91pts
2009 Veleta Tempranillo Privilegio 15%
A blend of Tempranillo and Graciano aged 24 months in a blend of French and American barriques
Dark and almost tarry on the nose with less of the sweetness and spice one finds in the base Tempranillo. Here there are more layered, earthy at first before turning quite floral with more of a caramel oak tone and some fine cigar box notes. Rich and decidedly different than the base Tempranillo; this shows polish and richness, it's not elegant per se, retain an air of rusticity, but it is refined. There rather rich fruit, black fruit, on the palate with tannins that are polished and fine. Well-balanced acids lend the dark leather fruit freshness across the palate and some drive the finish, which is rich, spicy, and chewy if not terribly long. This is a more interesting wine than the base Tempranillo of the same vintage, showing more refinement and nuance, but it lacks the sheer energy of the 2008 Tempranillo and the joy of that wine. This does have a nice tannic bite, which might be seen as aggressive by some, but should age quite well. 90pts
2013 Veleta Cabernet Sauvignon Roble 15%
Aged 3 months in a blend of French and American barriques
Aromatically this shares more with the previous wines than with Cabernet Sauvignon per se. There’s a hint of rubberiness here along with a nuanced and layered oak influence lending spice to black fruit that shows hints of burnt marshmallow and black licorice. Air does bring out some black currant fruit. On entry this is lovely, moderately rich, decidedly fruity in a black berry black currant way with gentle suggestions of green herbs lending freshness. Big yet fresh in the mouth, the tannins here are fine grained and rounded, if remaining firm, with fine underlying acidity lending freshness to the dark fruit. It's a very interesting wine, with flavors that are quite ripe yet a character that is rather bright and fresh. A joyful little Cabernet Sauvignon, words that I tend to not associate with Cabernet Sauvignon! It’s not complicated, but it’s not simple either. Really hits a sweet spot for me. Ready to drink fresh and juicy Cabernet that displays no sins of jamminess or anonymity. 87pts
2010 Veleta Cabernet Sauvignon 15%
Aged 12 months in a blend of French and American barriques
Subtle and showing some evolution already, the nose is graced by early notes of cigar box, tobacco, braised greens, and a lovely base of tar, bitter black cherries and black currant fruit. Silky and refined on entry, this is already in a very sweet spot, with youthful fruit and softening tannins all melting into a rich, almost lush save for the juicy acidity, pure and transparent palate. There's some apple peel notes here on the palate which are a little unusual, perhaps more bruised apple than skins but definitely apply edges to the core of bright red fruit. Precise and clean through the long finish, this is a lovely glass of wine with a slightly raw feel to it. To me this speaks more of Veleta than Cabernet Sauvignon in many ways, which help ring the qualities of the Dominio Buenavista terroir into sharper focus. 88pts
2010 Veleta Nolados 15%
40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc and 20% Tempranillo
Aged 12 months in a blend of French and American barriques
Dense, earthy, funky and sweetly spicy on the nose, this really blossoms in the glass. The oak treatment here keeps this aromatically in the Veleta family though with plenty of slightly herbal tinged black fruit to keep things well balanced. On the palate this is even more elegant than the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, with tannins that are finer and much greater detail on the palate. Rich yet fresh black and red fruit show hints of dried mushroom, leather, tobacco, and dried spice notes that linger on the long finish. There's a lightness here, possibly from the Cabernet Franc, and the complexity from the Tempranillo that elevates this above most of the varietal wines here. Very well integrated with succulence and attractive detail across the palate and through the long, detailed finish. 91pts
NV Veleta Sparkling Brut Blanco 12%
80 % Vijiriega, 20% Chardonnay
Minimum 12 months on the lees
Quite assertively aromatic with aromas of ground wheat, baked brioche, bitter almonds and polleny flowers. Very subtle and fine mousse, with bright acids lending this clarity and freshness in the mouth where yeasty flavors dominate the early palate. There’s almost a hint of mintiness here lending additional freshness and detail to the tart apple fruit and almondy notes of the midpalate. Rather dry, or at least coming off as dry due to the fine acidity here, though I think this is quite dry, it’s a lovely, fresh sparkling wine that comes off as 80% Cava with a 20% dose of sparkling Chenin added. There's an earthiness and almost lanolin character, perhaps more like beeswax, that reminds me a bit of Chenin here. Good length and persistence to the fine mousse. It has a bitter character on the finale that might be off-putting to some but comes of as rather complete today. 87pts
NV Veleta Sparkling Brut Rosé 12%
Tempranillo and Garnacha
Minimum 12 months on the lees
Peppery and slightly herbal on the nose with distinct aromas of red fruit and an underlying cola/pruny sweetness. This comes off as less dry than the Brut Blanco but is fuller on the palate with more assertive flavors. Slightly leather red cherry flavors grace the palate, which shares the fine mousse of the Brut Blanco. This is terrific and is a sparkling red that would be fabulous with food, something with bacon playing a supporting role perhaps. The cola note from the nose does come through on the palate as well, with fine mineral notes helping to frame the slightly leathery fruit flavors. I love the juxtaposition of slightly evolved flavors with the vibrancy and freshness this displays on the palate. There's a subtle creaminess leading to the finish here, which is a bit brief but so fresh. 89pts
NV Veleta Sweet Melodies 11%
100% Viognier
Very subtle on the nose with hints of honeysuckle, Asian pear, and bitter melon. Rather gently sweet in the mouth, remaining light and fresh on the palate with flavors that mimic the nose. This is a subtle and delicate sweet wine which features nuanced flavors that play off the gently sweet nature of the wine and the hint of polyphenolic bitterness that helps to highlight the fruit flavors. Delicate, easy to drink, but a bit simple and short. It’s not really a dessert wine, but I would rather use this with foie gras and other dishes that work well with a gently sweet wine. 86pts
NV Veleta Don Miguel 16%
A selection of late harvested Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot
Aged 24 months in a blend of French and American barriques
This Is unusual. It smells like a red wine, powerfully fruity but with a strong, if integrated, oak element lending spice to the jammy black currant, prune, and blackberry aromas of the nose, it smells a little like Napa Cabernet. In the mouth this is obviously note Napa Cabernet. It’s mildly sweet within the dessert wine spectrum, high acid, fresh, and complex. There’s an underlying truffly, nutty element lending this real complexity that is layered with peppery spice, dark, candied, but not sticky fruit, baking spices and leather and dried tobacco nuances. The finish is terrific as the wine sheds most of its sweetness and reveals a more intense core of earthy, spicy, and candied fruit flavors that are fresh and vivid through the long finish. This is really not very sweet, which makes it ideally sweet for my palate. Break out the cheese board, or dried cakes and cookies to pair with this. Perhaps not the greatest dessert wine on the market today, though this is one of the most food friendly and flexible examples of dessert wines I’ve yet to come across. 91pts