Final thoughts on 2012 Barolo with a look ahead at 2013, 2014, and beyond!
Having just finished a weeklong visit in the Langhe, with tastings focused on the 2013s of some producers new to me and others I only visit occasionally, I think it’s time to take one last swipe, I mean look at 2012 and place some bets on 2014 and beyond.
I have tasting notes of 2014 Barolo from only one producer, though I tasted wines from almost a dozen on this trip, all but the wines of Cordero di Montezemolo were botte or barrel samples and as they were not the estate’s finished wine, they don’t really warrant an attempt at a detailed note. Looking at those notes, for the Gattera and Enrico VI, several words jump out at me: juicy, silky, transparent, elegant, crystalline, precise. These words seem to capture the essence of this improbable vintage. I can’t believe how much I’ve enjoyed tasting these wines, having been in Piemonte in March, May, and September of 2014 I had a bit of a running commentary on the vintage and I don’t think producers expected such results.
To be sure these aren’t fleshy wines, they’re not going to need a lot of age to show their best and won’t last for 40 years, though some just might. It’s a classic vintage that makes me think of the 1980 vintage wines I tasted just a few years ago. I’ll have to do some digging to see how the two vintages stack up weatherwise with each other but I’m betting I will find more similarities than differences. It’s also a rather unique vintage in that it is a cool, classically styled vintage that will be enjoyable without much need for significant bottle ageing. All exciting prospects for neophyte and amateur alike.
It really is too early to make a final determination as to the quality of the vintage though a few things are obvious. That light, elegant, crystalline quality and a certain consistency across the wines I’ve tasted, which have been from fairly important to completely unknown producers. Another thought that is becoming obvious to me is that I enjoy the 2014s more than I enjoy the 2012s, or enjoyed at the same point in their evolutions. This is a sticky position to be in. Can I say that the 2014s are better than the 2012? I will, and I base that on the fact that I enjoy them more, but I know I will be in the minority here. And yet, as I compile my notes and thoughts on 2012 the same thesis plays again and again in my head. These 2012 wines are neither from a warm vintage nor from a cool vintage. They struggle to know what they are at times and I still find many of the wines front loaded with very ripe yet very red fruit, which is certainly tasty, but that fruit is carried on a frame of tannins that seem to not be quite as ripe as the fruit. Wines remain disjointed with lots of up-front fruit, and then dry tannic finishes that are left uncovered by succulence or fruit.
Of course there are fine wines from 2012, and the best wines of that vintage will, most likely, be better than almost anything coming from 2014, but the average quality, or more correctly the style of the vintage, which admittedly has been so hard to define seeing as wines are endlessly variable running the full spectrum from diaphanous to opaque, is less attractive than that of 2014. At least to my palate. So I’ve stuck my neck out. One portal that will allow many to jump on the 2014 bandwagon are the actually low, historically average alcohol levels. While we’ve become accustomed to seeing 14% on a bottle of Barolo, and are no longer surprised by 15%, the wines that I tasted were mostly between 13.5% and 14%. They are infinitely drinkable, wines that will demand to be drunk!
2013 on the other hand requires no neck sticking out. It’s the best vintage since 1989. The wines have remarkable balance, elegance, great depth of flavor without excessive weight. This is a vintage which is expressing terroir and minerality like none I’ve ever seen. The tannins are the finest that I can remember. I tasted very few of the big guns this past week, that will have to wait until May, but across the board I was blown away by the elegance of these wines. I can’t imagine the scores they will receive for they deserve scores higher than they have been getting, and there is simply no space left on the grading curve. This is the danger of grade inflation. When you are face to face with what could be the greatest vintage of a generation, an extra point just does do it justice. It is not a sufficient means of communicating the qualitative jump from vintages such as 2011 and 2012.
Looking ahead, I am fortunate that so many producers are willing to share not only their thoughts but also their very young wines out of barrel. It is incredibly hard to taste young nebbiolo, in particular, and try to have an idea of where it will go with another year, two, or three in wood but at least one can have some relatively subjective observations to relay about these wines.
2015 will go down as one of the best vintages of Barbera in living memory. Not only were conditions right but everything came together this year. Barbera has struggled in the marketplace but there seems to be a renaissance in the making as producers are finding the right blend of ripeness and oak ageing to produce Barberas with depth, finesse, and impressive but not excessive richness. 2015 endowed the wines with a natural richness and from what I’ve tasted many producers are now, once again, comfortable with allowing the high natural acidity of Barbera to be the wine’s calling card, which is easy to do in a vintage like 2015 where that acidity is buffered by incredibly ripe yet still fresh fruit
Barolo 2015 has that same incredible ripeness with aromas that are downright exotic. And while Nebbiolo is a high acid grape, it’s not as high acid as Barbera and that would seem to be the achille’s tendon of the vintage if there is to be one, the return to high alcohol notwithstanding. These promise to be flamboyant wines, likely to garner lots of praise, and they might prove to be delicious as well but some, and possible more than just a few might also be just a little too soft. There’s too much time before these are bottled for me to say with definity that the wines are soft, they may just be so packed with fruit that they appear to be a little soft, but I think in the long run this will be a very good warm vintage, but there will be no escaping the warm vintage character.
Finally, I was able to taste a handful of 2016 Nebbiolo destined to be Barolo. Lovely wines, fresher and less aromatically exotic than the 2015s perhaps, but there is more alcohol here as well. Prognosticating from these samples if a fool’s errand, but today what stands out about the wines is that alcohol, and that is not going to be going anywhere. Call me cautiously optimistic here, but I don’t see anything yet that makes me think this vintage will be at the level of the 2013s.
Back to the 2012s now.
These are good wines, the vintage is average in quality and stylistically makes me think of the 1988s, where the fruit was always darker than in 2012, but the structure was always dominant and a bit dry, and I think the 2012s have about that same fruit/structure balance and tannin quality. While ageing will be them some good, I can’t imagine that they will magically transform in the bottle either. I find it difficult to recommend these wines. I know who will like the 10s, the 11s, the 14s even, but these are neither cool nor warm, voluptuous nor lean, they are middle of the road Barolos and that is the impression that I have gotten for three years of tasting them.
Recently I enjoyed Antonio Galloni’s Festa del Barolo 2012 Seminar, though the dinner becomes less attractive as each year passes. Being afforded an opportunity to retaste 16 wines from the vintage allows me one last change to justify my position here before all attention turns to the 2013s. I will let the tasting notes support my position here, there is no point in me beating this dead horse as it were. In addition to the wines tasted at the Festa del Barolo I am including a few notes from wines tasted this past week as well.
La Festa del Barolo 2012 Seminar February 2017
Scores in parentheses are from tastings held in May 2016
2012 E Pira Chiara Boschis Cannubi.
Shows light shadings of oak, some autumnal character already with limestone basenotes, there's a hint of caramel sweetness here, bright acids, wood tannins early on the palate, light, fine soil tones on the moderately long finish, fine inner mouth perfumes of red fruit and rosebuds top a core of vibrant, crunchy red fruit on the midpalate. Graceful complete wine. 92pts (93pts)
2012 Francesco Rinaldi Barolo Cannubi
Lovely amarena cherry fruit on the nose. Dusty and sweet in the mouth, classic old school Barolo character, more cool vintage than warm vintage character here. Lovely floral notes grace the entry, light bodied, elegant, fine lacy structure, tight with a lovely fruit tannin rich finish that shows delicacy and fine persistence. 90pts
2012 Elio Altare Barolo Cannubi
Fruit aromas are rather quickly covered by oak, sweet, intense and toasty spicy. There seems to be plenty of fruit here under the wood but the wood is dominant for me. Good depth the palate, but again this is defined by it's wood treatment, wood tannins,wrapped around impressively dark fruit that slips under the powerful tannins on the dry and firm finish. While showing potential this is slightly out of balance, too structured,and too oak driven. 86pts
2012 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi
Subtle and complex, this is showing lovely, nuanced, tar, soil, black tea aromas, and while there is a shaving of oak here, it does not detract from the nose. Opens on the palate with a hint of nuttiness, dark rose notes, bright on entry, very well balanced, lovely red fruit, raspberry and cherry. Shows good length, this has concentration and freshness, finish is long, laced with limestone and rosehips. This is really quite good the house style really shines in this vintage, impressively long, lovely ripe tannins lending this tension. 92pts (91pts)
2012 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate.
A little stinky lifted with va, leathery, sour fruit, lacks freshness. Loose in the mouth as well. This shows some complexity and evolution already, a bit dirty, earthy, and easy in the mouth with a dry short finish, really unremarkable and dry. Air helped clean this up gaining some sweetness and a cola tinged quality to the nose but this was not a good bottle. NR (91pts)
2011 Roagna Barolo Pira VV
Already brassy in color, complex, earthy, herbal, spicy, some vegetal extract, light and delicate in the mouth with small core of raspberry fruit, lovely vibrancy, earthy, long and showing finesse on the finish, like sucking stones and cherry skins on the finale, has great potential. 91pts
2012 Alessandro e Gian Natale Fantino Bussia Vigna Dardi
Floral and evergreen frame the nose which presents intense perfumes of fruit of flowers. An impressively aromatic and complex wine, classic if incredibly well endowed with ripe fruit. A bit rounded in the mouth with ripe tannins, ripe fruit, brick, stone and subtle minty herbs on the backend and through the long finish, very fine, there's a bit of sweetness on the midpalate and a little caramel character here as well but this is so rich and ripe it’s easy to overlook it. A ripe, soft style of Barolo. Still this held my attention 92pts
2012 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo Gramolere
Perfumed and very floral on the nose with a subtle wood underlay, that grows on you. Light and elegant in style, very 2012 in that this lacks some ripeness, depth and substance, strives to be elegant but finishes with extracted tannins that clips the finish. Lovely fruit up front but ultimately underwhelming with a dry, crude finish. 86pts
2012 Conterno Fantino Barolo Sori Ginestra
Candied fruit mingles with integrated sweet oak notes on the nose. Slightly herbal extract laced sweet cherry fruit presents in the mouth, rather open knit, bright easy going fruit driven with hints of coffee gracing the backend. The finish tightens up a bit, shows slightly less ripe tannins with hints of tea and walnuts on the modest finish with acidity peaking out on the finale, good length, little spearmint and tar on the finish, tannins build on the palate, too too much structure for the fruit present and a sweet palate impression. Like having a cherry candy and a coffee candy in the mouth at the same time. A lot like Dr. Pepper. 80pts
2012 Elio Grasso Barolo Casa Mate
Tight with a little toasted oak influence here, minor but present and integrated with pressed floral notes and slightly jammy wild strawberry fruit, a bit chewy, a bit dense in the mouth though with good freshness and rather prominent tannins, lacks a bit of midpalate, modest length, there’s a fine underlying soil and black cherry skin quality here, but this a bit too tannic and a touch short but this seems like it can come together nicely. Ultimately there's a hint of tension and stoniness driving this. 88pts
2012 Massolino Barolo Margheria
Rich soil notes with a touch of sweetness, perfumed, quite floral and a bit spicy with fennel and dark spice notes. Finely balanced and lively in the mouth, bright and juicy with a lovely purity of fruit that is rare for the vintage, and good length, terrific ripeness to the tannins, again a rarity in the vintage, some strawberry tops and strawberry seeds lending some astringency to the red fruit hee. Tight but already drinkable with this excellent balance, no, not a powerful wine nor terribly complex but with balance that gives this real elegance and finesse. 93pts (90pts)
2012 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Francia.
Spicy on the nose, dark fruit, a little herbaceousness underlying intense rose petal notes, watermelon rind, tree bark and balsamic spice. Cylindrical on the palate, lacking a bit of depth on the midpalate today, tannins are finely ripe, tight, powerful balanced wine with impressive length, the finish shows great depth and complexity with tannins that have just a hint of dryness lending classical austerity to the finale, there's a pleasant lightness to this, though there's a hint of bitterness to the tannins on the finish. 92pts (92pts)
2012 Vietti Barolo Ravera
Opens with hints of sweet toasted almond gracing the nose along with dark fruit and dusty soil notes, a bit cedary even, showing a moderately pronounced oak notes, open knit with a hint of bitterness to the fruit, this has a very interesting tension and texture, lacks a bit fruit, quite tannic with some light fruit shading the lovely stony base and good length. A little bit of ash on the finish,. Just lacks some fruit. 88pts (88pts)
2012 G D Vajra Barolo Ravera
Some obvious wood influence lends the nose a spicy character, not much else going on, monotone nose, gains a strong floral vein, just lacks an extra dimension Ripe tannins, with a lovely core of ripe slightly sweet red cherry fruit pops on the midpalate, though extracted tannins emerge on the finish. Tight but with all the components in place to improve, actually shows great promise for the vintage, fine fruit, excellent structure, pretty well balanced. 90pts (89pts)
2012 G B Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero
Explosively sweet on the nose, strawberry strawberry tops, an incipient note of white truffle, silky though with bright acids, broad in the mouth but taut with a minty edge on the back palate, good length, lacks the depth and complexity of the best vintages but this is lovely, fairly powerful, elegant, and long with white floral notes and mineral accents gracing the long finish, very long, very complete. 93pts (93pts)
Wines tasted at Attilio Ghisolfi March 2017
2012 Attilio Ghisolfi Barolo Bussia 14.5%
15 day maceration, Slavonian oak Botte
Some pencil shavings oak here in the nose though fair well integrated in a dark cherry and candied set of aromas, with something slightly vegetal and iron rich lurking in the background. Smooth if a little chewy and quite rich in the mouth, the wood tannins are obvious from the get go though the flavor impact of the oak is modest though evident, fairly fresh if a bit slender in the mouth with a vegetal vein that recalls the nose. Modest finish. Lacks fruit on the palate, more of a mineral and spice palate impression. 84pts
2012 Attilio Ghisolfi Barolo Bricco Visette
18-20 days maceration, a part (60-70%) in botte rest in tonneaux, with a little new wood, almost three years in wood, up to 55 year old vines, the oldest part of the cru, also lower down the slope with full southern exposition.
Tight on the nose and quite balsamic with spicy notes, some obvious but well integrated oak spice accenting the natural spiciness of the wine, a much more impressive base wine here, rich yet not terribly weighty, delicate, much more elegance, clean and assertive on the finish which is a bit minty, a bit mineral, hides the oak well. Lithe and elegant wine with fine detail on the midpalate, relatively successful for the vintage, a touch medicinal on the midpalate and towards the back palate with excellent length. 90pts
2012 Attilio Ghisolfi Barolo Riserva
There is still a hint of wood here, hard to understand how or why but at the same time this shows terrific aromas of fruit, leather, blue flowers, rose petals, and sweet spice notes, more of that coriander and cardamom quality, almost opulent on entry, this has great presence in the mouth, it's pillowy, detailed, mouthfilling but not stressful, lovely innate balance with sour cherry fruit, the finish is finely textured and long with noble tannins and layeres of spice, fruit and soil driven flavors, there really is a fine delicacy here, almost a touch Rayas like in texture then a bit walnutty tannin from the vintage, with finesse and detail on the finish. This should have a long life as well. 93pts
Wines tasted at Camerano March 2017
2012 Camerano Barolo Terlo "Gold Label"
Animale, gamy and sweet on the nose, here too the aromas of raw wood are quite pronounced, there's a real herbal underlay on the nose here along with a sweet gum base note. Broad in the mouth, fresh enough with bright acids and a fairly transparent midpalate, finishes a bit quickly, dusty tannin, very savory rich finish, incipient iodine note on the nose, tannins are big but fairly sweet here, still with a certain crudeness, good length, black cherry fruit and savory aged meat notes, minty top note. Just a touch rustic. 89pts
2012 Camerano Barolo Cannubi
Rose water and sandy soil tones greet the nose, very Cannubi followed by a very floral and delicate entry, through here to there is a little raw wood still to be resolved here as well, but less than the Terlo. Elegant and fine, gauzy red fruit laid over a nice mineral base, red cherry and wild strawberry, a little burnished in nature with good complexity on the backend already, then the return of fresh fruit, tannins are ripe, this is very pretty again in a totally old school way, lots of sandalwood on the nose and an acidity that is fairly well pronounced but not out of scale for the wine, showing quite well at this young age, tannins are classic. 91pts
Wines tasted at Ettore Germano March 2017
2012 Ettore Germano Barolo Serralunga
Smoky and tarry on the nose with a hint of configure of dark berry fruit, powerful on the nose and spicy. Opulent, juicy and cherry fruited in the mouth though with a fine mineral undertone, long on the palate showing some evolution already, gorgeous rose petals on the nose, almost chewy but not quite, fresh, upright and tannic today with good length and fine persistence to the dark fruit, culminating in a clay tinged finale which shows off hints of spice and the warmth of alcohol. Lots going on but noone is going to call this elegant or refined. A brute. 89pts
2012 Ettore Germano Barolo Prapo
A fine mineral framed nose, vertical and pure with fresh berry fruits, spice, tar, and India ink notes. There’s a real robe of fruit covering the structure in the mouth here, this is impressive and delivers a lovely blend of richness and transparency on the palate, finishing with depth and assertive minerality, dusty tannins, and elegance. Such fine nuance on the midpalate, cherry skins, flowers and gentle medicinal herbs all layered over ripe, firm, classic tannins, really very fine. 93pts
2012 Ettore Germano Barolo Cerretta
The ripest of these three with darker plummy fruit hints of vanilla, dried cherry, dried strawberry and fresh tar. Tight in the mouth, still, and a bit tough with a more vertical presentation on the palate Quite tannic, long but tannic, a powerhouse, this might be too tannic, finishes with subtle mint and walnut inner mouth perfumes. Tough going 88pts
Wine tasted at Monchiero March 2017
2012 Barolo Rocche 14.5%
2 years in botte
Very fruity nose, tightens up quickly though, lots of rose bud with a hint of grilled meat, and a touch of camphour on entry, a bit front loaded, slightly fleshy but at the same time bitter cherry fruit and gently mineral laced in the mouth with decent presence on the midpalate. The finish rings a touch hollow but there is a perfumed return here, cherry and roses, tannins are a touch coarse, fine dusty finish, just a little clipped on the finish, still vertical and with fresh tannins. 89pts
Wine tasted at Aldo Conterno March 2017
2012 Aldo Conterno Barolo Romirasco
Five weeks on the skins and 30 months in botte
All nuance on the nose, elegant and fine with tight lilac, white pepper and turmeric notes, more indian than middle eastern spice here. Rather tactile early on the palate, transparent with tannins that show just a little edginess and dryness, lovely delicacy and finesse in the mouth where some vegetal, blue flower tinged wild berry fruit lays over some big tannins, a bit inky in the mouth and a touch coarse, and with tannins exposed on the modest finish, tannic and it's just harder to drink than other vintages 91pts
Wines tasted at Elio Grasso March 2017
2012 Elio Grasso Barolo Chiniera
Candied cherry fruit on the nose, sweet with hint of menthol, incipient leather and some black pepper spice. Really playful the mouth, tannic enough but the fruit is ovoid, upright, transparent with a slightly smith brothers medicinal tone. Not as complex as the 13 but more playful, and much more advanced though certainly not ready, real hard candy sweet character to the fruit here, finishing with moderate length and slightly dried herb, grassy finish. 91pts
2012 Elio Grasso Barolo Casa Mate
Big black cherry lifesaver notes greet the nose followed by layers of nuanced leather, iodine, and. pressed flowers, Cool, focused and compressed in the mouth offering up lovely balance with attractively ripe tannins though this seems a bit loose on the backend. Perhaps, is it closing down, great austerity from the fruit tannins, finish is just a bit clipped, camphor and rosehips add further detail to what is a pretty wine, just a little simple but nicely complete. 90pts
ADDENDUM APRIL 2017
I wrote the above just before the start of Prowein 2017 and for some reason totally forgot that I was going to Prowein to taste even more 2012 Barolo. I need to write up a little review of my Prowein experience this year, but the following note should give one a glimpse of why it's an event that is not only worth attending, but a must attend date for me each year. These wines were tasted over the course of about a day and a half, if I had to visit each of these wineries I would have been looking at four days or work or more!
Alessandro Veglio
2012 Alessandro Veglio Barolo 14.5%
50/50 Gattera/ Annunziata
12-15 days on the skins, malo in wood, 70% barrique rest tonneaux, never more than 20% new
Tabacco and earth grace the nose along with wood spice, pencil lead, and a little meatiness. A touch soft up front, buffers with extract, a bit of an extracted feel, plenty of tannins here with a nice, dark, wild cherry core, lots of fruit tannin to start with though this reveals some finesse on the back end before this clamps down, certainly very well made, possesses power with a sense of delicacy up front, but the tannins seem a touch outsized here. There's a lot of fruit here, deep and savory in the mouth and aromatic on the finish, but I can't help but wonder if less wood tannin would have been better. 88pts
2012 Alessandro Veglio Barolo Gattera
Planted in 1950, 36 hour cold soak, 22-25 days of skin contact, mall in oak, 30% in tonneaux, the rest in barrique, one third new. 2500-3000 bottles
The oak disturbs the nose here as it's dominant and slightly overpowering. This is rich, seamless, and fairly supple with a wonderfully crystalline if dark fruit. Earthy on the palate with wood tannin that intrudes on what must have been a really lovely base wine, deeply vinous and fruity with root notes, licorice, and ginseng flavors. There's plenty of grip here, though this remains medium bodied, with real persistence to the juicy bright fruit. You can feel the elegance on the finish through the wood influence, if the wood resolves here this will be very good but I have certain doubts, it could be so elegant. 91pts
Giacomo Vico
2012 Vico Nebbiolo Valmaggiore 14%
Three years of botte 40hl
Savory and complex on the nose, rich n aromas of camphor, sandalwood, rosehips, talc, and light cherry fruit. Elegant and refined palate impression, detailed not super complex in the mouth though with attractive inner mouth perfumes and freshness. Easy drinking but not facile with small rounded tannins supporting a little bitter cherry on the back end leading to a long, elegant finish with more than a bit of flesh. This does show a hint of alcohol but it's not disturbing. 88pts
2012 Vico Roero Bricco Patarrone
Two years in botte
An added layer of depth here, white sandy soil notes and a distinctly floral quality combine in a perfumed way helping to frame rich cherries in alcohol aromas. Just a touch loose in the mouth, though but this does have wonderfully ripe flavors of red fruit in the mouth presented with delicacy; it's tannic but the palate impression is not weighty, rather nuanced and faceted instead with a lovely burnished quality and rosehip notes. Long, with fine intensity to the bright, juicy fruit on the finish. Again though the alcohol is noticeable if not bothersome, long. 90pts
Palladino
One month skin contact for all the Barolo with selected yeasts
2012 Palladino Barolo Serralunga 14.5%
Five vineyards, Parafada, San Bernardo, Gabbuti, Ornato, and Serra when the San Bernardo Riserva is produced the first of two passes through the vineyards go into the riserva, as it does with the Crus, except for Gabbuti and Serra, which are leased and always used for the Barolo Serralunga.
Smoky and deeply fruited on the nose and very nicely done for a 12. A really happy nose leads to a transparent and tense palate impression, lovely if a bit simple red berry raspberry red currant inflected fruit paired with angular tannins, creating quite a classic impression in the mouth. A bit austere if very long on the finish with a return of the fruit still in the red end of the spectrum but showing a more roasted character,. This does drop off a bit on the midpalate, but shows great promise, the fruit up front is really lovely and subtly savory. 89pts
2012 Palladino Parafada 14.5%
One year in botte and then a year a year in tonneaux about half used,
Deeper on the nose, with a more floral character, a real extract of rose petals, very ripe but red fruited on the nose. More elegant and yet firmer in the mouth with sandy tannins. This is more perfumed in the mouth with rather fine grained tannins that are a touch dry but remain covered by the fruit. The tannins are a bit dry, with a green peach like note, fuzzy peach skin, early harvest quality. Long in the mouth, but not as long as the base Barolo, with nice fruit and a savory character and a bitter almond note on the finale. Real interesting potential here. 90pts
2012 Palladino Ornato. 14.5%
Two years in botte with French staves and Slavonian caps
A step up in depth and complexity on the nose with more dried herb and medicinal character, then turning a bit tarry, dark, leathery, and tobacco scented, Rounder, broader, and fuller in the mouth with a more tannic impression,. Denser in the mouth while remaining very mineral driven in the mouth. This has fine focus through the midpalate, though the finish is a touch dry. Definitely old school in style with a little red currant and strawberry fruit on the palate that is a bit subtle at this point in the wines evolution, though the long, mineral, and tense finish is very promising. 92pts
Voerzio Martini
2012 Voerzio Martini Barolo La Serra 14%
24 months in tonneaux then in botte, always 60% new
Intense nose, ripe nose, shows spicy sandalwood, cigar box spice, very wood influenced aromatics perhaps even more so than the still very fruit drive varietal wines produced here. A bit soft up front followed by a boatload of tannins, deep in the mouth, a lot of wine and really not too bad but the oak is disturbing. This is a real mouthful , though it is chewy with too much wood tannin here for this to be enjoyable. For me this is a clumsy effort, even if the fruit is remarkably intense, the finsih is clipped and this is inelegant. None the less this will find an audience interested in hedonistic wines with lots of oak influence. 83pts
Livio Pavese
2012 Livio Pavese Barolo Serralunga
It's dirty on the nose, jammy dark fruit appears on the palate but this feels like it has some of the life cooked out of it, a little minty and a little musty on the nose. Light in the mouth, and bright, texturally this is attractive, delicate with a lean rightness, tannins are ripe and well managed, moderately long savory finish, supple tannins, a low keyed wine though, this really reminds me of the old private label Barolos from the late 70s cooperatives. There's a nice base of burnished rainier cherry on the plate and this comes off as solid player in a disappearing style. 86pts
Mauro Sebaste
2012 Mauro Sebaste Barolo Tresuri 14%
The oak is way too prevalent here, and it's also showing some evolution already, a bit autumnal on the nose with pencil shaving notes. It's not terrible spicy but assertive on the palate which presents much like the nose with that assertive pencil shaving note wrapped in pleasant fruit finishing with raw dry tannins, a snap of wild cherry fruit emerges on the finish followed by wood tannins, You have to really like oak to enjoy this wine. 83pts
G D Vajra
2012 G D Vajra Barolo Bricco della Viola
Very pure high toned nose of sandalwood with a suggestion caper, then spicy and complex floral notes, with a light suggestion of wood on the nose. Good cut in the mouth, ripe tannins, a bit chewy with lots of fruit tannins and moderately rich dark fruit. The tannins are pretty powerful on a medium framed wine that delivers flavors oft plum and almost apricot fruit on the backend. Quite perfumed in the mouth, with a well knit midpalate here with ripe fruit covering the tannins through the finish, 90pts
La Spinona
2012 La Spinona Barolo Bergera 13.5%
Novello
Very savory on the nose and showing dried grassy notes of evolution, a touch spicy and small scaled with light pencil lead notes. Gently rounded in the mouth, an interesting wine with freshness and quite savory flavors, a bit spicy and very dusty. Dried grasses like on the nose, parchment and an incipient bullion note rounds out the palate. This should age well as its already showing the flavor profile it'll have in the future. It's not really going anywhere but should sweeten up with time in the bottle. 86pts
2012 La Spinona Barolo Sori Gepin 14%
Burnished fruit, spicy, a with a fine herbal streak greets the nose along with a little ash and some cigarette tobacco here. More opulent and fruitier than the Bergera with more of a red fruit profile, though still earthy in a lean, old school. A little spicy on the palate with dry tannins carving through the back of the tongue. This has a classic fruit profile, all the dried cherry fruit with hints of citron peel and Angelica root. Big in the mouth though medium plus bodied,with a very dark and savory finish. 89pts
Oddero
2012 Oddero Barolo 14%
Low on the nose, bit earthy with hints of cut grass driving the herbal nose with a floral top note. Sweet fruit early on the palate that fills in nicely on the midpalate. Alovely wine though it's dry and tannic at its core with a little suggestion of chewiness. Fine length, still a bit on the tannic side with persistent tannins,though also delivering real transparency with fine purity to the fruit, and rather vivid in the mouth. 90pts
Le Ginestra
2012 Le Ginestra Barolo Sottocastello Novello 14%
30-35 days, first year in barrique, one third new, then in botte for another two years
Deep and savory, oily even on the nose with soil driven and slightly marine influenced aromas. Opening with lovely inner mouth perfumes on entry, rose petal and powdery red cherries with hints of confectioners sugar, and a bit stinky in a classic old school way. Structurally this is rather delicate, with fine acids and ripe tannins in balance and well done for the vintage. The finish is just a little chewy with persistent cherry fruit on the finish covering the tannins. A bright and juicy style. 90pts
Ellena Giuseppe
2012 Ellena Giuseppe Barolo La Morra
Two months skin contact, half in botte and half in barrique
Clear on the nose and a bit meaty, raw beef, capers, salt, incipient tobacco. Bright in the mouth and highlighting the savory beefy extract nose from the nose with that salty vein running through this with terrific fruit clear and pure raspberry toned fruit. That fine minerality grabs the midpalate, clean and fresh finish with decent length, a bit earthy on the palate, tough with fine transparency 90pts
2012 Ellena Giuseppe Barolo Asheri 14.5%
18 months in barrique, 59% new, 12 months in botte.
A touch of tobacco and cigar box alerts to the oak here though it is nicely integrated, again meaty and salty but more floral as well, bigger scaled and richer in the mouth than the La Morrra, with fine ripe tannins and integrated acids. This is smooth with a hint of geranium on the palate, followed by nicely burnished fruit, clean and fresh with pretty decent length, a bit loose and lacks a touch of focus, though the tannins are ripe. 88pts
Ciabot Berton
2012 Ciabot Berton Barolo La Morra
10 days skin contact, 18 months in botte 25hl
Lovely rose petal, cherries in alcohol, dried tobacco and dried beef on the nose with a complicating note of tomato with a Worcestershire sauce underlay. Gentle and elegant in style with soft, ripe tannins. Bright on the midpalate with a gentle mineral cut accenting rose petals and tart cherry fruit. A bit short and foursquare but well made. 87pts
2012 Ciabot Berton Barolo Ciabot Breton 14%
More intense fruit and spice on the nose with rose petals, talc, and a hint of licorice. Soft and broad on entry though this is richer and more structured than the base bottling with fine depth. Hints of white pepper and coriander lace the the powerful palate which is a bit chewy with potent tannins that do remain covered through the moderately long finish. 90pts
2012 Ciabot Berton Barolo Rocchettevino 14.5%
High toned and immediate on the nose with nuanced dark soil tones, gently spicy with white pepper undertones. Rather vertical in the mouth with a lovely core of red fruit and rose that offers real cut and detail. The tannins are a bit dry here, but this is focused and fine, long even with jammy if sour fruit and a balsamic wash on the finale. With age this should balance out nicely and reveal more finesse. 91pts
2012 Ciabot Berton Barolo Roggeri 14.5%
Shows a more evolved nature on the nose with hints of carob and a little nutty sweetness. Gentle round and broad in the mouth with a more structured feel with tannins that are a little less ripe than in Rocchettevino, Lovely fruit shows full ripeness but this already is showing early signs of maturity. A bit chunky and crude with a raw, spicy finish. 87pts
Amalia
2012 Amalia Barolo 14.5%
From Bussia Fantini. The highest part within Bussia
20 days cappello sommerso, then 30 months in oval 26 Hl botte
Floral, orange rind, and spicy aromas on the nose with dried tea notes offering both good complexity and freshness. Gentle in the mouth with a classic array of rose bud and burnished cherry fruit on the savory and spicy palate with good length and fruit covering the ripe tannins on the finish. Already almost approachable. But this gives the impression that it might shut down and the liquory and medicinal finishes promises more complexity in the future. 88pts
2012 Amalia Le Coste di Monforte
Same winemaking
Very similar to the Bussia with more depth, more medicinal extract of herb notes and certainly more reticent. Soft on entry but immediately more intense and complex than the base wine with a bit more depth and fat on the palate here. This is showing quite well with a hint of bitter chocolate and vanilla accenting the dark cherry in alcohol fruit on the palate.. The tannins are very well managed, the finish shows good length, with lovely sweet brown spice notes on the finish, this has harmony, 91pts
Bovio
2012 Bovio Barolo Arborina 14%
30-40 days in vintages that allow with cappellan somerso
1 year used barrique and one year of botte 16-30hl,
Same ferment for crus, Gattera is all botte
A bit tight but showing hints of sandalwood, rosewater, and seashore on the nose with a bit of pork sweetness. More savory than fruity on the nose. Soft on entry, broad in the mouth, this shows a nice, pleasant extract of strawberry fruit, decent purity, tannins really build on the finish and are a bit too big for the wine, though this remans pleasant if a bit chewy on the modest finish. 86pts
2012 Bovio Barolo Gattera
This is more complex on the nose way more interesting, soil driven, bloody, autumnal and briary aromas over a base of delicate red fruit with lots of incipient sottobosco. This reminds me of Marcarini's la Serra with its delicate blend of fine fruit and transparency in a wine that is not really fruit driven. Tart red fruits are paired with with assertive tannins and integrated acidity on the palate. There's fine length here, tart red fruits with slow to emerge tea notes and a gentle foreshadowing of truffle emerging on the finish. Nicely done and rather classic. 91pts
Brezza
2012 Brezza Barolo Castellero 14%
Lots of macerated floral notes with cherries and wild strawberries in alcohol grace the nose. Delicate early on the palate, this shows a lightness on the palate, lacks a bit of midpalate as the strawberry fruit gets a little loose. The tannins are well managed but emerge a little uncovered on the finish, not dry though,. Air brings out a hint of coffee on the nose. this is a little lean with lots of burnished orange fruit already. 86pts
2012 Brezza Barolo Cannubi 14%
A step up in complexity and intensity from the Castellero with aromas of dried herbs, dry soil, dry grasses and gently spicy red fruit. In the mouth this is nicely rounded and transparent, if a bit light on the fruit though a gentle and elegant style of wine with lovely tannins that are ripe yet retains an edge of austerity offering good follow through on the juicy but low keyed finish. This is well balanced and should improve. 89pts
2012 Brezza Barolo Sarmassa 14.5%
Here there is obviously more fruit on the nose in a similar burnished red fruit vein to the Castellero bottling, with richer cherries in alcohol aromas graced with some cardamom spice and red clay soil notes. Bigger and rounder in the mouth, silky, with better depth on the palate, lots of red cherry and white cherry fruit, ripe tannins, and a mineral laced palate. A touch chewy on the backend, fruit stops a bit before the tannins, leading to nice hints of blood orange and spices on the finale.The most complete of these 12s though even here the tannins remain a hint drier than ideal. 90pts
Rizieri
2012 Rizieri Barolo 14.5%
Lipstick, red fruit, and sweet and lightly candied aromas of red cherry and watermelon greet the nose. Smooth, moderately rich rich and round in the mouth though a bit simple, though with lots of fresh red fruit. Tannins are a bit dry here but well within expectations, though it does lend a spicy quality to the moderately tannic finish. Rather front loaded with fruit, following the classic vintage profile with lots of fruit up front, lacks a bit of a mp, then a dry, austere if pleasantly so in that sense, finish that ends on a bit of a coarse note. 85pts
I wrote the above just before the start of Prowein 2017 and for some reason totally forgot that I was going to Prowein to taste even more 2012 Barolo. I need to write up a little review of my Prowein experience this year, but the following note should give one a glimpse of why it's an event that is not only worth attending, but a must attend date for me each year. These wines were tasted over the course of about a day and a half, if I had to visit each of these wineries I would have been looking at four days or work or more!
Alessandro Veglio
2012 Alessandro Veglio Barolo 14.5%
50/50 Gattera/ Annunziata
12-15 days on the skins, malo in wood, 70% barrique rest tonneaux, never more than 20% new
Tabacco and earth grace the nose along with wood spice, pencil lead, and a little meatiness. A touch soft up front, buffers with extract, a bit of an extracted feel, plenty of tannins here with a nice, dark, wild cherry core, lots of fruit tannin to start with though this reveals some finesse on the back end before this clamps down, certainly very well made, possesses power with a sense of delicacy up front, but the tannins seem a touch outsized here. There's a lot of fruit here, deep and savory in the mouth and aromatic on the finish, but I can't help but wonder if less wood tannin would have been better. 88pts
2012 Alessandro Veglio Barolo Gattera
Planted in 1950, 36 hour cold soak, 22-25 days of skin contact, mall in oak, 30% in tonneaux, the rest in barrique, one third new. 2500-3000 bottles
The oak disturbs the nose here as it's dominant and slightly overpowering. This is rich, seamless, and fairly supple with a wonderfully crystalline if dark fruit. Earthy on the palate with wood tannin that intrudes on what must have been a really lovely base wine, deeply vinous and fruity with root notes, licorice, and ginseng flavors. There's plenty of grip here, though this remains medium bodied, with real persistence to the juicy bright fruit. You can feel the elegance on the finish through the wood influence, if the wood resolves here this will be very good but I have certain doubts, it could be so elegant. 91pts
Giacomo Vico
2012 Vico Nebbiolo Valmaggiore 14%
Three years of botte 40hl
Savory and complex on the nose, rich n aromas of camphor, sandalwood, rosehips, talc, and light cherry fruit. Elegant and refined palate impression, detailed not super complex in the mouth though with attractive inner mouth perfumes and freshness. Easy drinking but not facile with small rounded tannins supporting a little bitter cherry on the back end leading to a long, elegant finish with more than a bit of flesh. This does show a hint of alcohol but it's not disturbing. 88pts
2012 Vico Roero Bricco Patarrone
Two years in botte
An added layer of depth here, white sandy soil notes and a distinctly floral quality combine in a perfumed way helping to frame rich cherries in alcohol aromas. Just a touch loose in the mouth, though but this does have wonderfully ripe flavors of red fruit in the mouth presented with delicacy; it's tannic but the palate impression is not weighty, rather nuanced and faceted instead with a lovely burnished quality and rosehip notes. Long, with fine intensity to the bright, juicy fruit on the finish. Again though the alcohol is noticeable if not bothersome, long. 90pts
Palladino
One month skin contact for all the Barolo with selected yeasts
2012 Palladino Barolo Serralunga 14.5%
Five vineyards, Parafada, San Bernardo, Gabbuti, Ornato, and Serra when the San Bernardo Riserva is produced the first of two passes through the vineyards go into the riserva, as it does with the Crus, except for Gabbuti and Serra, which are leased and always used for the Barolo Serralunga.
Smoky and deeply fruited on the nose and very nicely done for a 12. A really happy nose leads to a transparent and tense palate impression, lovely if a bit simple red berry raspberry red currant inflected fruit paired with angular tannins, creating quite a classic impression in the mouth. A bit austere if very long on the finish with a return of the fruit still in the red end of the spectrum but showing a more roasted character,. This does drop off a bit on the midpalate, but shows great promise, the fruit up front is really lovely and subtly savory. 89pts
2012 Palladino Parafada 14.5%
One year in botte and then a year a year in tonneaux about half used,
Deeper on the nose, with a more floral character, a real extract of rose petals, very ripe but red fruited on the nose. More elegant and yet firmer in the mouth with sandy tannins. This is more perfumed in the mouth with rather fine grained tannins that are a touch dry but remain covered by the fruit. The tannins are a bit dry, with a green peach like note, fuzzy peach skin, early harvest quality. Long in the mouth, but not as long as the base Barolo, with nice fruit and a savory character and a bitter almond note on the finale. Real interesting potential here. 90pts
2012 Palladino Ornato. 14.5%
Two years in botte with French staves and Slavonian caps
A step up in depth and complexity on the nose with more dried herb and medicinal character, then turning a bit tarry, dark, leathery, and tobacco scented, Rounder, broader, and fuller in the mouth with a more tannic impression,. Denser in the mouth while remaining very mineral driven in the mouth. This has fine focus through the midpalate, though the finish is a touch dry. Definitely old school in style with a little red currant and strawberry fruit on the palate that is a bit subtle at this point in the wines evolution, though the long, mineral, and tense finish is very promising. 92pts
Voerzio Martini
2012 Voerzio Martini Barolo La Serra 14%
24 months in tonneaux then in botte, always 60% new
Intense nose, ripe nose, shows spicy sandalwood, cigar box spice, very wood influenced aromatics perhaps even more so than the still very fruit drive varietal wines produced here. A bit soft up front followed by a boatload of tannins, deep in the mouth, a lot of wine and really not too bad but the oak is disturbing. This is a real mouthful , though it is chewy with too much wood tannin here for this to be enjoyable. For me this is a clumsy effort, even if the fruit is remarkably intense, the finsih is clipped and this is inelegant. None the less this will find an audience interested in hedonistic wines with lots of oak influence. 83pts
Livio Pavese
2012 Livio Pavese Barolo Serralunga
It's dirty on the nose, jammy dark fruit appears on the palate but this feels like it has some of the life cooked out of it, a little minty and a little musty on the nose. Light in the mouth, and bright, texturally this is attractive, delicate with a lean rightness, tannins are ripe and well managed, moderately long savory finish, supple tannins, a low keyed wine though, this really reminds me of the old private label Barolos from the late 70s cooperatives. There's a nice base of burnished rainier cherry on the plate and this comes off as solid player in a disappearing style. 86pts
Mauro Sebaste
2012 Mauro Sebaste Barolo Tresuri 14%
The oak is way too prevalent here, and it's also showing some evolution already, a bit autumnal on the nose with pencil shaving notes. It's not terrible spicy but assertive on the palate which presents much like the nose with that assertive pencil shaving note wrapped in pleasant fruit finishing with raw dry tannins, a snap of wild cherry fruit emerges on the finish followed by wood tannins, You have to really like oak to enjoy this wine. 83pts
G D Vajra
2012 G D Vajra Barolo Bricco della Viola
Very pure high toned nose of sandalwood with a suggestion caper, then spicy and complex floral notes, with a light suggestion of wood on the nose. Good cut in the mouth, ripe tannins, a bit chewy with lots of fruit tannins and moderately rich dark fruit. The tannins are pretty powerful on a medium framed wine that delivers flavors oft plum and almost apricot fruit on the backend. Quite perfumed in the mouth, with a well knit midpalate here with ripe fruit covering the tannins through the finish, 90pts
La Spinona
2012 La Spinona Barolo Bergera 13.5%
Novello
Very savory on the nose and showing dried grassy notes of evolution, a touch spicy and small scaled with light pencil lead notes. Gently rounded in the mouth, an interesting wine with freshness and quite savory flavors, a bit spicy and very dusty. Dried grasses like on the nose, parchment and an incipient bullion note rounds out the palate. This should age well as its already showing the flavor profile it'll have in the future. It's not really going anywhere but should sweeten up with time in the bottle. 86pts
2012 La Spinona Barolo Sori Gepin 14%
Burnished fruit, spicy, a with a fine herbal streak greets the nose along with a little ash and some cigarette tobacco here. More opulent and fruitier than the Bergera with more of a red fruit profile, though still earthy in a lean, old school. A little spicy on the palate with dry tannins carving through the back of the tongue. This has a classic fruit profile, all the dried cherry fruit with hints of citron peel and Angelica root. Big in the mouth though medium plus bodied,with a very dark and savory finish. 89pts
Oddero
2012 Oddero Barolo 14%
Low on the nose, bit earthy with hints of cut grass driving the herbal nose with a floral top note. Sweet fruit early on the palate that fills in nicely on the midpalate. Alovely wine though it's dry and tannic at its core with a little suggestion of chewiness. Fine length, still a bit on the tannic side with persistent tannins,though also delivering real transparency with fine purity to the fruit, and rather vivid in the mouth. 90pts
Le Ginestra
2012 Le Ginestra Barolo Sottocastello Novello 14%
30-35 days, first year in barrique, one third new, then in botte for another two years
Deep and savory, oily even on the nose with soil driven and slightly marine influenced aromas. Opening with lovely inner mouth perfumes on entry, rose petal and powdery red cherries with hints of confectioners sugar, and a bit stinky in a classic old school way. Structurally this is rather delicate, with fine acids and ripe tannins in balance and well done for the vintage. The finish is just a little chewy with persistent cherry fruit on the finish covering the tannins. A bright and juicy style. 90pts
Ellena Giuseppe
2012 Ellena Giuseppe Barolo La Morra
Two months skin contact, half in botte and half in barrique
Clear on the nose and a bit meaty, raw beef, capers, salt, incipient tobacco. Bright in the mouth and highlighting the savory beefy extract nose from the nose with that salty vein running through this with terrific fruit clear and pure raspberry toned fruit. That fine minerality grabs the midpalate, clean and fresh finish with decent length, a bit earthy on the palate, tough with fine transparency 90pts
2012 Ellena Giuseppe Barolo Asheri 14.5%
18 months in barrique, 59% new, 12 months in botte.
A touch of tobacco and cigar box alerts to the oak here though it is nicely integrated, again meaty and salty but more floral as well, bigger scaled and richer in the mouth than the La Morrra, with fine ripe tannins and integrated acids. This is smooth with a hint of geranium on the palate, followed by nicely burnished fruit, clean and fresh with pretty decent length, a bit loose and lacks a touch of focus, though the tannins are ripe. 88pts
Ciabot Berton
2012 Ciabot Berton Barolo La Morra
10 days skin contact, 18 months in botte 25hl
Lovely rose petal, cherries in alcohol, dried tobacco and dried beef on the nose with a complicating note of tomato with a Worcestershire sauce underlay. Gentle and elegant in style with soft, ripe tannins. Bright on the midpalate with a gentle mineral cut accenting rose petals and tart cherry fruit. A bit short and foursquare but well made. 87pts
2012 Ciabot Berton Barolo Ciabot Breton 14%
More intense fruit and spice on the nose with rose petals, talc, and a hint of licorice. Soft and broad on entry though this is richer and more structured than the base bottling with fine depth. Hints of white pepper and coriander lace the the powerful palate which is a bit chewy with potent tannins that do remain covered through the moderately long finish. 90pts
2012 Ciabot Berton Barolo Rocchettevino 14.5%
High toned and immediate on the nose with nuanced dark soil tones, gently spicy with white pepper undertones. Rather vertical in the mouth with a lovely core of red fruit and rose that offers real cut and detail. The tannins are a bit dry here, but this is focused and fine, long even with jammy if sour fruit and a balsamic wash on the finale. With age this should balance out nicely and reveal more finesse. 91pts
2012 Ciabot Berton Barolo Roggeri 14.5%
Shows a more evolved nature on the nose with hints of carob and a little nutty sweetness. Gentle round and broad in the mouth with a more structured feel with tannins that are a little less ripe than in Rocchettevino, Lovely fruit shows full ripeness but this already is showing early signs of maturity. A bit chunky and crude with a raw, spicy finish. 87pts
Amalia
2012 Amalia Barolo 14.5%
From Bussia Fantini. The highest part within Bussia
20 days cappello sommerso, then 30 months in oval 26 Hl botte
Floral, orange rind, and spicy aromas on the nose with dried tea notes offering both good complexity and freshness. Gentle in the mouth with a classic array of rose bud and burnished cherry fruit on the savory and spicy palate with good length and fruit covering the ripe tannins on the finish. Already almost approachable. But this gives the impression that it might shut down and the liquory and medicinal finishes promises more complexity in the future. 88pts
2012 Amalia Le Coste di Monforte
Same winemaking
Very similar to the Bussia with more depth, more medicinal extract of herb notes and certainly more reticent. Soft on entry but immediately more intense and complex than the base wine with a bit more depth and fat on the palate here. This is showing quite well with a hint of bitter chocolate and vanilla accenting the dark cherry in alcohol fruit on the palate.. The tannins are very well managed, the finish shows good length, with lovely sweet brown spice notes on the finish, this has harmony, 91pts
Bovio
2012 Bovio Barolo Arborina 14%
30-40 days in vintages that allow with cappellan somerso
1 year used barrique and one year of botte 16-30hl,
Same ferment for crus, Gattera is all botte
A bit tight but showing hints of sandalwood, rosewater, and seashore on the nose with a bit of pork sweetness. More savory than fruity on the nose. Soft on entry, broad in the mouth, this shows a nice, pleasant extract of strawberry fruit, decent purity, tannins really build on the finish and are a bit too big for the wine, though this remans pleasant if a bit chewy on the modest finish. 86pts
2012 Bovio Barolo Gattera
This is more complex on the nose way more interesting, soil driven, bloody, autumnal and briary aromas over a base of delicate red fruit with lots of incipient sottobosco. This reminds me of Marcarini's la Serra with its delicate blend of fine fruit and transparency in a wine that is not really fruit driven. Tart red fruits are paired with with assertive tannins and integrated acidity on the palate. There's fine length here, tart red fruits with slow to emerge tea notes and a gentle foreshadowing of truffle emerging on the finish. Nicely done and rather classic. 91pts
Brezza
2012 Brezza Barolo Castellero 14%
Lots of macerated floral notes with cherries and wild strawberries in alcohol grace the nose. Delicate early on the palate, this shows a lightness on the palate, lacks a bit of midpalate as the strawberry fruit gets a little loose. The tannins are well managed but emerge a little uncovered on the finish, not dry though,. Air brings out a hint of coffee on the nose. this is a little lean with lots of burnished orange fruit already. 86pts
2012 Brezza Barolo Cannubi 14%
A step up in complexity and intensity from the Castellero with aromas of dried herbs, dry soil, dry grasses and gently spicy red fruit. In the mouth this is nicely rounded and transparent, if a bit light on the fruit though a gentle and elegant style of wine with lovely tannins that are ripe yet retains an edge of austerity offering good follow through on the juicy but low keyed finish. This is well balanced and should improve. 89pts
2012 Brezza Barolo Sarmassa 14.5%
Here there is obviously more fruit on the nose in a similar burnished red fruit vein to the Castellero bottling, with richer cherries in alcohol aromas graced with some cardamom spice and red clay soil notes. Bigger and rounder in the mouth, silky, with better depth on the palate, lots of red cherry and white cherry fruit, ripe tannins, and a mineral laced palate. A touch chewy on the backend, fruit stops a bit before the tannins, leading to nice hints of blood orange and spices on the finale.The most complete of these 12s though even here the tannins remain a hint drier than ideal. 90pts
Rizieri
2012 Rizieri Barolo 14.5%
Lipstick, red fruit, and sweet and lightly candied aromas of red cherry and watermelon greet the nose. Smooth, moderately rich rich and round in the mouth though a bit simple, though with lots of fresh red fruit. Tannins are a bit dry here but well within expectations, though it does lend a spicy quality to the moderately tannic finish. Rather front loaded with fruit, following the classic vintage profile with lots of fruit up front, lacks a bit of a mp, then a dry, austere if pleasantly so in that sense, finish that ends on a bit of a coarse note. 85pts