Col Vetoraz: In a class of their own
I don’t like Prosecco. I think we need to establish this baseline before we proceed. It’s not that I don’t enjoy Prosecco, I have always had a soft spot for the delicate, sparkling wine of the Veneto, and if truth be known I’m really a sucker for Prosecco frizzante, but that’s another story. No, what I don’t like about Prosecco is what it has become, and the selection the marketplace offers consumers.
Prosecco, in case you haven’t heard, is undoubtedly the wine world’s greatest success story. Already a powerhouse a decade ago, the sales of Prosecco exploded over the past years, increasing fourfold over the last decade, to exceed 600 million bottles in recent vintages. From 23,000 hectares, 57,000 acres. Do the math; nearly 11,000 bottles per acre. You might see where I’m going here.
Fine wine is the sum of its parts. Those parts, what we can terroir, are heavily skewed towards the vineyards, and while Glera, the predominant grape of Prosecco, is an abundant producer, you just can’t make 11,000 bottles of great wine from an acre. It’s asking too much of the vine, too much of the land, and too much of the producer tasked with converting grapes into golden, sparkling nectar. So I don't like Prosecco, the whole of it. It is a fabulous thing for a small group of Italian vineyard owners and producers, but it does a disservice both to the quality conscious Prosecco producers, and consumers.
But we must not despair, as there remain some shining examples of Prosecco, uniting all that Prosecco can be, and it is famous for a reason: it is one of the great sparkling wines of the world, born as an uncomplicated accompaniment to daily meals, and now, through the hard work in sometimes challenging hillside vineyards, and unrelenting refinement in the cellar, capable of satisfying both the most discriminating palate, as well as those simply looking for the most delicious thing to drink, simultaneously!
That is the gift of Prosecco, it remains a delight to drink, even in its most terroir driven, austere, and geeky incarnations. I am able to prove this, anecdotally of course, thanks to a sample package supplied to me by the fine folk of Col Vetoraz. I was given 6 bottles of Valdobbiadene DOCG, which in normal times would have quickly succumbed to the collective thirst of a single small dinner party, but these are not normal times.
Let me address a small marketing point here, one that easily derails the best intentions. We have been told, in fact it has been drilled into us, that sparkling wine is not just for special occasions. Entirely true, convincing so, except with the caveat that adding bubbles to an occasion makes it defacto special. It’s bizarrely true, and should be seized upon by all models of marketing. Don’t open sparkling wine on any occasion, make any occasion special by opening sparkling wine!
Back to the story at hand. I have had a long relationship with Col Vetoraz, back to my days in retail in NYC when Col Vetoraz was my go to Prosecco, and one I highly recommended. Fast forward to 2020 and I am delighted to discover that Col Vetoraz has expanded their line to include the six samples they graciously supplied me. More impressively, as the world of Prosecco has spun towards a lower common denominator, Col Vetoraz has upped its game. These wines, as a group, truly sit atop the Prosecco pyramid. If only there was some way to easily denote this.
As you might have noticed I did not receive Prosecco from Col Vetoraz, though these wines all qualify for that appellation. Instead, since 2017 Col Vetoraz has decided to use the far more restrictive Valdobbiadene appellation to clarify that these wines don’t come from the greater Prosecco appellation, expanded in 2009 to accommodate growing demand, but from the historic heart of production, the hillside vineyards of the Valdobbiadene growing region. The small region that established the reputation that Prosecco has deftly exploited.
As I mentioned, these are not normal times, so our first trio of wines were shared with a small gathering of family on the porch in the closing days of summer. Lovely, refreshing, and thoroughly enjoyed by all, it was noted by even the casual consumers that these wines exceed the expectations suggested by calling them Prosecco. Our gathering was a celebration of sorts, a last hurrah for both the summer and the relative freedom it had afforded us!
Prosecco, in case you haven’t heard, is undoubtedly the wine world’s greatest success story. Already a powerhouse a decade ago, the sales of Prosecco exploded over the past years, increasing fourfold over the last decade, to exceed 600 million bottles in recent vintages. From 23,000 hectares, 57,000 acres. Do the math; nearly 11,000 bottles per acre. You might see where I’m going here.
Fine wine is the sum of its parts. Those parts, what we can terroir, are heavily skewed towards the vineyards, and while Glera, the predominant grape of Prosecco, is an abundant producer, you just can’t make 11,000 bottles of great wine from an acre. It’s asking too much of the vine, too much of the land, and too much of the producer tasked with converting grapes into golden, sparkling nectar. So I don't like Prosecco, the whole of it. It is a fabulous thing for a small group of Italian vineyard owners and producers, but it does a disservice both to the quality conscious Prosecco producers, and consumers.
But we must not despair, as there remain some shining examples of Prosecco, uniting all that Prosecco can be, and it is famous for a reason: it is one of the great sparkling wines of the world, born as an uncomplicated accompaniment to daily meals, and now, through the hard work in sometimes challenging hillside vineyards, and unrelenting refinement in the cellar, capable of satisfying both the most discriminating palate, as well as those simply looking for the most delicious thing to drink, simultaneously!
That is the gift of Prosecco, it remains a delight to drink, even in its most terroir driven, austere, and geeky incarnations. I am able to prove this, anecdotally of course, thanks to a sample package supplied to me by the fine folk of Col Vetoraz. I was given 6 bottles of Valdobbiadene DOCG, which in normal times would have quickly succumbed to the collective thirst of a single small dinner party, but these are not normal times.
Let me address a small marketing point here, one that easily derails the best intentions. We have been told, in fact it has been drilled into us, that sparkling wine is not just for special occasions. Entirely true, convincing so, except with the caveat that adding bubbles to an occasion makes it defacto special. It’s bizarrely true, and should be seized upon by all models of marketing. Don’t open sparkling wine on any occasion, make any occasion special by opening sparkling wine!
Back to the story at hand. I have had a long relationship with Col Vetoraz, back to my days in retail in NYC when Col Vetoraz was my go to Prosecco, and one I highly recommended. Fast forward to 2020 and I am delighted to discover that Col Vetoraz has expanded their line to include the six samples they graciously supplied me. More impressively, as the world of Prosecco has spun towards a lower common denominator, Col Vetoraz has upped its game. These wines, as a group, truly sit atop the Prosecco pyramid. If only there was some way to easily denote this.
As you might have noticed I did not receive Prosecco from Col Vetoraz, though these wines all qualify for that appellation. Instead, since 2017 Col Vetoraz has decided to use the far more restrictive Valdobbiadene appellation to clarify that these wines don’t come from the greater Prosecco appellation, expanded in 2009 to accommodate growing demand, but from the historic heart of production, the hillside vineyards of the Valdobbiadene growing region. The small region that established the reputation that Prosecco has deftly exploited.
As I mentioned, these are not normal times, so our first trio of wines were shared with a small gathering of family on the porch in the closing days of summer. Lovely, refreshing, and thoroughly enjoyed by all, it was noted by even the casual consumers that these wines exceed the expectations suggested by calling them Prosecco. Our gathering was a celebration of sorts, a last hurrah for both the summer and the relative freedom it had afforded us!

Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene DOCG Brut
Produced from western facing hillside vineyard, 8 g/l residual Sugar.
Just classic perfumes: all pear, flowers, with a hint of almost vanillin sweetness, along with a sweet touch of apricot. Mousse is just a touch coarse, though this remains bright and juicy on the palate with fine orchard fruit and just a hint of apricot. Delightfully light and very fresh with a dry chalkiness through the modest finish. Lovely direct and linear style. 87pts
Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene DOCG Extra Dry
Produced from steep hillside vineyards with 16 g/l residual sugar
More mineral aspects on the nose which displays assertive green apple aromas with hints of sage and green anise seed. More delicate and nuanced while presenting a more rounded mouthfeel with a fine interplay of lemon curd, minerality, and creaminess. Good length, this is really delicious. So much well framed, elegant, pure fruit in a stunningly appealing package. This was the first bottle finished out of three. 90pts
Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene DOCG Superiore di Cartizze
From vineyards located in the historically important Cartizze vineyards with 24 g/l residual sugar.
On another level, with seriously mineral inflected pear skin and subtly floral fruit with an underlying, gently nutty sweetness. Perfectly balanced, this fills the mouth, and while the sweetness is noticeable, it is not at all saccharine, lending candied notes to the lemon lime fruit. So creamy, long and caressing while remaining tense and nervous. Great underlying minerality, bracing tension and nuance with tremendous inner mouth perfumes. 93pts
Produced from western facing hillside vineyard, 8 g/l residual Sugar.
Just classic perfumes: all pear, flowers, with a hint of almost vanillin sweetness, along with a sweet touch of apricot. Mousse is just a touch coarse, though this remains bright and juicy on the palate with fine orchard fruit and just a hint of apricot. Delightfully light and very fresh with a dry chalkiness through the modest finish. Lovely direct and linear style. 87pts
Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene DOCG Extra Dry
Produced from steep hillside vineyards with 16 g/l residual sugar
More mineral aspects on the nose which displays assertive green apple aromas with hints of sage and green anise seed. More delicate and nuanced while presenting a more rounded mouthfeel with a fine interplay of lemon curd, minerality, and creaminess. Good length, this is really delicious. So much well framed, elegant, pure fruit in a stunningly appealing package. This was the first bottle finished out of three. 90pts
Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene DOCG Superiore di Cartizze
From vineyards located in the historically important Cartizze vineyards with 24 g/l residual sugar.
On another level, with seriously mineral inflected pear skin and subtly floral fruit with an underlying, gently nutty sweetness. Perfectly balanced, this fills the mouth, and while the sweetness is noticeable, it is not at all saccharine, lending candied notes to the lemon lime fruit. So creamy, long and caressing while remaining tense and nervous. Great underlying minerality, bracing tension and nuance with tremendous inner mouth perfumes. 93pts

This second flight of sorts was just a single bottle, shared with my mother and immediate family over a decidedly truncated Thanksgiving dinner. Talk about the need for something special. The wine, 2019 Millesimato, was just what we needed. A flagship wine if there was one, Just a pitch perfect interpretation of Prosecco that blends the freshness and elegance that is the wines’ trademark with gorgeously rendered fruit. It put a smile on everyone’s face.
Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene DOCG 2019 Millesimato
Produced from top vineyard sites with 24 g/l residual sugar
Lemony fresh. A hint of almond, followed by some gently floral base notes. Fine mousse. Interesting interplay of bitterness and fruit derived sweetness. This seems quite dry with no impression of sugariness at all, though texturally the sugar lends this some rounding and softness. Precisely balanced with delicate, etched flavors of lemon lime leaf, chalky minerality, and a rather long finish with hints of apricot, kumquat and golden currant lingering. Just a pitch perfect interpretation of Prosecco that blends the freshness and elegance that is the wines’ trademark with gorgeously rendered fruit.. Turns into a pear bomb as it warms and airs. Just terrific. 92pts
Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene DOCG 2019 Millesimato
Produced from top vineyard sites with 24 g/l residual sugar
Lemony fresh. A hint of almond, followed by some gently floral base notes. Fine mousse. Interesting interplay of bitterness and fruit derived sweetness. This seems quite dry with no impression of sugariness at all, though texturally the sugar lends this some rounding and softness. Precisely balanced with delicate, etched flavors of lemon lime leaf, chalky minerality, and a rather long finish with hints of apricot, kumquat and golden currant lingering. Just a pitch perfect interpretation of Prosecco that blends the freshness and elegance that is the wines’ trademark with gorgeously rendered fruit.. Turns into a pear bomb as it warms and airs. Just terrific. 92pts

This final pair of bottles were enjoyed with a few in-laws over Thanksgiving leftovers. Eye openers for wine neophytes, they disappeared far too quickly and proved that opening Col Vetoraz on any occasion makes it a special occasion. I mean, leftover turkey is about as unspecial as it gets, but these wines elevated the entire evening.
Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene DOCG Extra Brut Cuvee 5
A blend of 5 hillside vineyards with 5 g/l residual sugar
This smells dry, stone, salty, of pear rinds and russet apples along with a floral top note. Fine mousse with a tart lemon and mineral approach followed by finely chiseled flavors of stone, quince, camomile and lemon rind. Very dry and gorgeously so, this deftly blends the refreshing character of Prosecco to something firm, austere, captivating and delicious. Really a re imagination of what Prosecco can and should be, this is as much a sipping wine, very aperitivo, as it is a food wine, and there it should shine against olives or fatty cheese, roast chicken, veal blanquette. Probably the best bottle of Prosecco that I’ve had. So steely/mineral and fine and yet with terrific persistence to the fruit. 94pts
Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene DOCG Extra Dry Cuvee 13
A blend of 13 vineyards with 13 g/l residual sugar
Quite floral on the nose. Perfumed with quartz, peonies, quince and a hint of golden raspberry. A hint of lushness greets the palate. A fairly dry sparkling wine but with enough RS to lend some richness and accentuate the fruit, which vaguely recalls under ripe strawberries in the mouth. Fine minerality emerges on the back end and lingers on the palate along with cooked pear flavors. Very nice, a bit easier but far from facile. This is superbly easy to drink and delivers a decent level of interest and complexity. Love the minerality on the finish. 89pts
There is not much more to say. I highly recommend a visit to the Col Vetoraz web page as it is both very informative and well laid out, not to mention full of images that give one an idea of the beauty of this part of the Veneto. Once we return to a close to pre-pandemic world a visit to the top of the Cartizze to enjoy the fine production of Col Vetoraz in situ should be on everyone’s bucket list!
Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene DOCG Extra Brut Cuvee 5
A blend of 5 hillside vineyards with 5 g/l residual sugar
This smells dry, stone, salty, of pear rinds and russet apples along with a floral top note. Fine mousse with a tart lemon and mineral approach followed by finely chiseled flavors of stone, quince, camomile and lemon rind. Very dry and gorgeously so, this deftly blends the refreshing character of Prosecco to something firm, austere, captivating and delicious. Really a re imagination of what Prosecco can and should be, this is as much a sipping wine, very aperitivo, as it is a food wine, and there it should shine against olives or fatty cheese, roast chicken, veal blanquette. Probably the best bottle of Prosecco that I’ve had. So steely/mineral and fine and yet with terrific persistence to the fruit. 94pts
Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene DOCG Extra Dry Cuvee 13
A blend of 13 vineyards with 13 g/l residual sugar
Quite floral on the nose. Perfumed with quartz, peonies, quince and a hint of golden raspberry. A hint of lushness greets the palate. A fairly dry sparkling wine but with enough RS to lend some richness and accentuate the fruit, which vaguely recalls under ripe strawberries in the mouth. Fine minerality emerges on the back end and lingers on the palate along with cooked pear flavors. Very nice, a bit easier but far from facile. This is superbly easy to drink and delivers a decent level of interest and complexity. Love the minerality on the finish. 89pts
There is not much more to say. I highly recommend a visit to the Col Vetoraz web page as it is both very informative and well laid out, not to mention full of images that give one an idea of the beauty of this part of the Veneto. Once we return to a close to pre-pandemic world a visit to the top of the Cartizze to enjoy the fine production of Col Vetoraz in situ should be on everyone’s bucket list!