TrentoDOC Blind Tasting: Palazzo RoccaBruna 9/2017
During my recent visit to Trentino I took advantage of the opportunity to blind taste a line-up of 20 TrentoDOC wines.
I provide the technical information that I was supplied to me for those who are curious to delve more deeply into the wines.
This was a fascinating tasting, with wines generally presented in flights of five, though the three Rose wines at the end were presented as their own flight.
The results illustrate both the wide diversity of wines on offer throughout the region as well as the general qualitative level, which is quite high and supported by some unknown producers. It’s always good to blind taste and even better to taste beyond the familiar.
Blind tastings are the equalizers, and this tasting with very manageable flights offered some humbling results. My first flight of 5 dosaggio zero wines was case in point. My two wop wines were from Cavit Altemasi project and Rotari. Not the wines we typically find on the shelves from these producers, they none the less were produced by cellars we don’t always think of as producing top quality wines. While I might be a little embarrassed by picking these two wines as the top of this flight the fact of the matter is that these big producers, easy to dismiss and vilify, are leading the way. Are these the best wines? Perhaps not, but they are very good wines, very typical of what TrentoDOC is capable of, combining fruit and elegance in a way that is unique in the world of sparkling wines, and most importantly: they have the ability to bring these wines to an international market, breaking down barriers for TrentoDOC as a group; kudos to them.
The following dozen wines were a variety of Brut wines, showing the depth and breadth of TrentoDOC. While I am fully cognizant of the elements that make up a great TrentoDOC, derived as they are from base wines that achieve a level of physiological ripeness that is generally more complete than other base wines for sparkling wines, I obviously can’t help myself when it comes to a blind tasting. I can’t help but be impressed by the cellar work that can go into producing Metodo Classico wines.
I should prefer the wines that are pure, that are non-interventionist, that allow the base wines to speak for themselves, and yet my top three wines all featured some barrel ageing. It’s undeniable. That barrel ageing adds complexity and roundness, which may emerge with additional bottle ageing, but if you’re buying current release TrentoDOC it’s hard to find better wines than the 2013 Cantina Mori Colli Zugna TrentoDOC Morus dal 1957, the 2012 Endrizzi TrentoDOC Pian Castello Brut Riserva , or the 2010 Cesarini Sforza TrentoDOC Extra Brut Riserva 1673. This ranking though does depend on what you want out of your TrentoDOC and what you’re trying to achieve with it. If you were pairing these wines with food we might have a completely different result here, and an apertivo on the patio would, in turn, also predicate a different list.
This mini-blind tasting culminated with a trio of Roses, typically my favorite sparkling wines, perhaps because they tend to be both festive and vinous. While the world of sparkling wine competes on the Brut stage that may not be the best weight class to highlight what trentoDOC brings to the table, my notes for those wines not withstanding. In a certain way I see both Dosaggio Zero and Rose wines as more laudatory categories for TrentoDOC, both highlighting the base wines more than the cellar work. Of course great cellar work and great base wines will produce great wines but if you were only able to have one, then great base wines would be the default for great wines. These three Roses were all quite good, though the 2013 Maso Martis TrentoDOC Extra Brut Rosé Riserva Bio was in fact, performing at a distinctly higher level and delivered everything I want and expect from a world class sparkling Rose. It was complex, nuanced, generous and yet with stunning balance and elegance. A fitting end to the tasting and a true exclamation point on the potential of TrentoDOC.
With a production that is 2% that of Prosecco it is not surprising that TrentoDOC is a little known player in the sparkling wine market. Of course when we’re talking about numbers like these TrentoDOC can remain a niche player while achieving great market success. It will always be a wine of smaller numbers, playing on the margins, but the consumers who truly know and understand sparkling wines will be the ones that benefit. TrentoDOC is a special category of wine, not because of pricing, or marketing budgets, or well designed packaging, but rather because of the terroir that allows for these remarkable base wines and something that is all too rare in Italy. Producers who not only believe in what they are doing, what their potential is and their ability to achieve it, but also believe in what their neighbors are doing and are willing to lend them a hand to the benefit of all.
Progress will be slow for TrentoDOC, and as I said, I do not expect them become a household name anytime in the near, or distant future, but I do expect that we’ll be hearing much more about TrentoDOC, as it becomes a mainstay of the wine lover and geek aficionado!
I provide the technical information that I was supplied to me for those who are curious to delve more deeply into the wines.
This was a fascinating tasting, with wines generally presented in flights of five, though the three Rose wines at the end were presented as their own flight.
The results illustrate both the wide diversity of wines on offer throughout the region as well as the general qualitative level, which is quite high and supported by some unknown producers. It’s always good to blind taste and even better to taste beyond the familiar.
Blind tastings are the equalizers, and this tasting with very manageable flights offered some humbling results. My first flight of 5 dosaggio zero wines was case in point. My two wop wines were from Cavit Altemasi project and Rotari. Not the wines we typically find on the shelves from these producers, they none the less were produced by cellars we don’t always think of as producing top quality wines. While I might be a little embarrassed by picking these two wines as the top of this flight the fact of the matter is that these big producers, easy to dismiss and vilify, are leading the way. Are these the best wines? Perhaps not, but they are very good wines, very typical of what TrentoDOC is capable of, combining fruit and elegance in a way that is unique in the world of sparkling wines, and most importantly: they have the ability to bring these wines to an international market, breaking down barriers for TrentoDOC as a group; kudos to them.
The following dozen wines were a variety of Brut wines, showing the depth and breadth of TrentoDOC. While I am fully cognizant of the elements that make up a great TrentoDOC, derived as they are from base wines that achieve a level of physiological ripeness that is generally more complete than other base wines for sparkling wines, I obviously can’t help myself when it comes to a blind tasting. I can’t help but be impressed by the cellar work that can go into producing Metodo Classico wines.
I should prefer the wines that are pure, that are non-interventionist, that allow the base wines to speak for themselves, and yet my top three wines all featured some barrel ageing. It’s undeniable. That barrel ageing adds complexity and roundness, which may emerge with additional bottle ageing, but if you’re buying current release TrentoDOC it’s hard to find better wines than the 2013 Cantina Mori Colli Zugna TrentoDOC Morus dal 1957, the 2012 Endrizzi TrentoDOC Pian Castello Brut Riserva , or the 2010 Cesarini Sforza TrentoDOC Extra Brut Riserva 1673. This ranking though does depend on what you want out of your TrentoDOC and what you’re trying to achieve with it. If you were pairing these wines with food we might have a completely different result here, and an apertivo on the patio would, in turn, also predicate a different list.
This mini-blind tasting culminated with a trio of Roses, typically my favorite sparkling wines, perhaps because they tend to be both festive and vinous. While the world of sparkling wine competes on the Brut stage that may not be the best weight class to highlight what trentoDOC brings to the table, my notes for those wines not withstanding. In a certain way I see both Dosaggio Zero and Rose wines as more laudatory categories for TrentoDOC, both highlighting the base wines more than the cellar work. Of course great cellar work and great base wines will produce great wines but if you were only able to have one, then great base wines would be the default for great wines. These three Roses were all quite good, though the 2013 Maso Martis TrentoDOC Extra Brut Rosé Riserva Bio was in fact, performing at a distinctly higher level and delivered everything I want and expect from a world class sparkling Rose. It was complex, nuanced, generous and yet with stunning balance and elegance. A fitting end to the tasting and a true exclamation point on the potential of TrentoDOC.
With a production that is 2% that of Prosecco it is not surprising that TrentoDOC is a little known player in the sparkling wine market. Of course when we’re talking about numbers like these TrentoDOC can remain a niche player while achieving great market success. It will always be a wine of smaller numbers, playing on the margins, but the consumers who truly know and understand sparkling wines will be the ones that benefit. TrentoDOC is a special category of wine, not because of pricing, or marketing budgets, or well designed packaging, but rather because of the terroir that allows for these remarkable base wines and something that is all too rare in Italy. Producers who not only believe in what they are doing, what their potential is and their ability to achieve it, but also believe in what their neighbors are doing and are willing to lend them a hand to the benefit of all.
Progress will be slow for TrentoDOC, and as I said, I do not expect them become a household name anytime in the near, or distant future, but I do expect that we’ll be hearing much more about TrentoDOC, as it becomes a mainstay of the wine lover and geek aficionado!
Flight 1: Dosaggio Zero
1) 2013 Revì Dosaggio Zero Millesimato 12.5%
75% Chardonnay, 25 % Pinot Nero
Total acidity 7.12 PH 3.2 Residual Sugar 0 g/l
Calcareous clay, medium texture stone soil at 350/500 m 4500 vines/ha 65 hl/ha pergola/guyot
stainless steel no oak 36 months on the lees
11000 bottles produced
Fine slow perlage
Gorgeous nose, more on the floral and mineral side of the spectrum and here the autolytic character plays an obvious role. Aromas are almost slightly medicinaL with a suggestion of mint. Fine mousse and a fairly creamy texture carrying a bit of dried orange up front with sweet nut meat flavors across the palate. With a lovely palate presence, this still offers a touch of babyfat fruitiness with its round, slightly soft and luxurious mouthfeel. An assertive nuttiness reappears on the backend and through the modest, fruity finish. Dry and slightly austere, not the easiest drinking but refreshing, long and juicy with great acids. 90pts
2) Cembra Cantina di Montagna TrentDOC Ororosso Dosaggio Zero 12.5%
100% Chardonnay
Total acidity 5,8 g/l PH 3.2 Residual Sugar: 0 g/l
silty-sandy soils, loose, of porphyric origin 500/600 m 5500 vines/ha 50 hl/ha guyot, simple pergola
stainless steel no wood 60 months on the lees
6000 bottles produced
Moderately aggressive perlage
Fruity and high toned on the nose with a base of dusty mineral then layers of mint and intense fruit with almost a suggestion of exotic pineapple fruit. A bit of air lends this more of a toasty profile, and a decisive chalky top note. Moderately creamy, and mouth filling with a fine gauzy texture Flavors of dried apple cores and some forest floor emerge on the palate along with dusty, chalky mineral notes that are assertive on the back palate and through the finish lending this a bitter cast to the finale. Persistent and distinctive, less fruity than the nose suggests, but nuanced and nicely firm instead, with a strongly perfumed finish, floral toned and rich with dried citrus pith. 91pts
3) 2011 Rotari TrentoDOC AlpeRegis Pas Dosé 13.00%
100% Chardonnay
Total Acidity 6 g/l PH 3.1 Residual Sugar 2 g/l
Clayey, porphyric soil 500 m 6000 vines/ha
80 hl/ha pergola 70% stainless steel, 30% barrique for 5/6 months 60 months on lees
10,000 bottles produced
Medium slow perlage, fine bubble
Fuller on the nose with wood shadings lending complexity to the earthy, richly apple fruited nose that is graced with an impression of vanilla creamy sweetness. Really fine mousse lend this an elegance in the mouth, there's a creamy edge but the base wine seems fuller here, with layers of flavors built on quince and dried apple fruit, oak, and the autolytic character all supplemented on the backend by terrific minerality. Acidity is bright but integrated, allowing this to finish with subtlety and nuance With pinpoint precision and a gorgeously subtle, lingering minerality on the fresh, cleansing finish, this keeps one coming back for more. 92pts
4) 2010 Opera Vitivinicola in Val Di Cembra TrentoDOC Opera Dosaggio Zero Riserva 12.5%
100% Chardonnay
Total Acidity 6,8 g/l PH 3.17 Residual Sugar 0,6 g/l Porphyric-limestone soil 650 m
4500 vines/ha 50 hl/ha pergola/guyot
80% steel, 20% wood for 8/9 months 72 months on the lees
1500 bottles produced
Fine perlage, slow bubbles
Well that's different, smells woody and a bit weird, savory like fish sauce, complex and nuanced if not typical with aromas of wet slate, toasty notes and pasticceria cream, and vanilla emerging with air. A touch softer and creamier on entry than the previous wines though remaining elegant in the mouth, but without the depth of flavor the previous wines showed. Though there are lovely flavors of pollen, ginseng, and pear fruit here with decent length and an interesting herbal, polleny note on the steely finish. The most typical dosage zero of this bunch, slightly austere, chalky and a bit short on the palate. 87pts
5) 2010 Altemasi TrentoDOC Pas Dosé 12.50%
60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Nero
Total Acidity 6,5 g/l PH 3.3 Residual Sugar 0 g/l
Volcanic and glacial soils 500/600 m
4500/5000 vines/ha 70 hl/ha pergola/guyot
stainless steel tanks no oak ageing 60 months on the lees
Medium perlage with quite enthusiastic bubbles
By far the fullest of these five on the nose, rich with fruity character accented with hints of white pepper, and waxy, dried apple fruity and nutty framing notes. More typically sort of Champenoise, but still with the fruit of Trentino, Wow, returning to the glass I am again impressed with vinosity of the nose and its sheer intensity. Possessing a fine mousse, quite powerful yet slightly lean, this shows off a certain austerity but backs it up with real depth. There is good length and fullness to the finish, where golden fruit melds with savory forest floor accents and a fine integrated mineral note. Very well balanced and harmonious wine that is quite refined and offers a real sense of finesse on the palate. 92pts
While the same score as #3, I preferred #3
75% Chardonnay, 25 % Pinot Nero
Total acidity 7.12 PH 3.2 Residual Sugar 0 g/l
Calcareous clay, medium texture stone soil at 350/500 m 4500 vines/ha 65 hl/ha pergola/guyot
stainless steel no oak 36 months on the lees
11000 bottles produced
Fine slow perlage
Gorgeous nose, more on the floral and mineral side of the spectrum and here the autolytic character plays an obvious role. Aromas are almost slightly medicinaL with a suggestion of mint. Fine mousse and a fairly creamy texture carrying a bit of dried orange up front with sweet nut meat flavors across the palate. With a lovely palate presence, this still offers a touch of babyfat fruitiness with its round, slightly soft and luxurious mouthfeel. An assertive nuttiness reappears on the backend and through the modest, fruity finish. Dry and slightly austere, not the easiest drinking but refreshing, long and juicy with great acids. 90pts
2) Cembra Cantina di Montagna TrentDOC Ororosso Dosaggio Zero 12.5%
100% Chardonnay
Total acidity 5,8 g/l PH 3.2 Residual Sugar: 0 g/l
silty-sandy soils, loose, of porphyric origin 500/600 m 5500 vines/ha 50 hl/ha guyot, simple pergola
stainless steel no wood 60 months on the lees
6000 bottles produced
Moderately aggressive perlage
Fruity and high toned on the nose with a base of dusty mineral then layers of mint and intense fruit with almost a suggestion of exotic pineapple fruit. A bit of air lends this more of a toasty profile, and a decisive chalky top note. Moderately creamy, and mouth filling with a fine gauzy texture Flavors of dried apple cores and some forest floor emerge on the palate along with dusty, chalky mineral notes that are assertive on the back palate and through the finish lending this a bitter cast to the finale. Persistent and distinctive, less fruity than the nose suggests, but nuanced and nicely firm instead, with a strongly perfumed finish, floral toned and rich with dried citrus pith. 91pts
3) 2011 Rotari TrentoDOC AlpeRegis Pas Dosé 13.00%
100% Chardonnay
Total Acidity 6 g/l PH 3.1 Residual Sugar 2 g/l
Clayey, porphyric soil 500 m 6000 vines/ha
80 hl/ha pergola 70% stainless steel, 30% barrique for 5/6 months 60 months on lees
10,000 bottles produced
Medium slow perlage, fine bubble
Fuller on the nose with wood shadings lending complexity to the earthy, richly apple fruited nose that is graced with an impression of vanilla creamy sweetness. Really fine mousse lend this an elegance in the mouth, there's a creamy edge but the base wine seems fuller here, with layers of flavors built on quince and dried apple fruit, oak, and the autolytic character all supplemented on the backend by terrific minerality. Acidity is bright but integrated, allowing this to finish with subtlety and nuance With pinpoint precision and a gorgeously subtle, lingering minerality on the fresh, cleansing finish, this keeps one coming back for more. 92pts
4) 2010 Opera Vitivinicola in Val Di Cembra TrentoDOC Opera Dosaggio Zero Riserva 12.5%
100% Chardonnay
Total Acidity 6,8 g/l PH 3.17 Residual Sugar 0,6 g/l Porphyric-limestone soil 650 m
4500 vines/ha 50 hl/ha pergola/guyot
80% steel, 20% wood for 8/9 months 72 months on the lees
1500 bottles produced
Fine perlage, slow bubbles
Well that's different, smells woody and a bit weird, savory like fish sauce, complex and nuanced if not typical with aromas of wet slate, toasty notes and pasticceria cream, and vanilla emerging with air. A touch softer and creamier on entry than the previous wines though remaining elegant in the mouth, but without the depth of flavor the previous wines showed. Though there are lovely flavors of pollen, ginseng, and pear fruit here with decent length and an interesting herbal, polleny note on the steely finish. The most typical dosage zero of this bunch, slightly austere, chalky and a bit short on the palate. 87pts
5) 2010 Altemasi TrentoDOC Pas Dosé 12.50%
60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Nero
Total Acidity 6,5 g/l PH 3.3 Residual Sugar 0 g/l
Volcanic and glacial soils 500/600 m
4500/5000 vines/ha 70 hl/ha pergola/guyot
stainless steel tanks no oak ageing 60 months on the lees
Medium perlage with quite enthusiastic bubbles
By far the fullest of these five on the nose, rich with fruity character accented with hints of white pepper, and waxy, dried apple fruity and nutty framing notes. More typically sort of Champenoise, but still with the fruit of Trentino, Wow, returning to the glass I am again impressed with vinosity of the nose and its sheer intensity. Possessing a fine mousse, quite powerful yet slightly lean, this shows off a certain austerity but backs it up with real depth. There is good length and fullness to the finish, where golden fruit melds with savory forest floor accents and a fine integrated mineral note. Very well balanced and harmonious wine that is quite refined and offers a real sense of finesse on the palate. 92pts
While the same score as #3, I preferred #3
Flight 2: Brut
6) Moser TrentoDOC Moser 51,151 Brut 12.5%
100% Chardonnay
Total Acidity 6,8 g/l PH 3.2 Residual Sugar 4,5 g/l
mainly limestone soils 300/600 m
2500-4000 vines/ha 60 hl/ha pergola/guyot
80% stainless steel, 20% oak casks (25 hl) for 6 months 30 months on the lees
35000 bottles produced
Delicate perlage slow
With an underlying sweet fruit tone on the nose and assertive yeasty character, this is quite typical Metodo Classico graced with dried apple aromas, a touch of chalk, and an assertive liqueur d'expedition aroma here, fruity in an almost grappa like way. Lush and limey on entry, and in fact remaining quite citrusy across the palate which is a it straightforward, nicely balanced, but a bit simple. Quite elegant and decidedly easy drinking, neither overtly fruity nor overtly sweet though a bit short on the finish. Precise and focused. 88pts
7) 2014 Letrari TrentoDOC Brut Letrari 12.5%
85% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Nero
Total Acidity 6,7 g/l PH 3.4 Residual Sugar 6,5 g/l Calcareous soil, 400 m
4000 vines/ha 70 hl/ha pergola/guyot
stainless steel no oak ageing 30 months on the lees
15000 bottles produced
Medium speed and perlage
Dried peach with a sulphury edge to it, as the sulphur blows off this turns rather reticent on the nose, with hints of dried ginger underpinning a very floral top note and core of hazelnut. Unusual aromas, on the nose. Moderately rich yet remaining brightly textured if darker flavored than many of these wines with dried orchard fruit flavors wrapped around a base of slightly toasty autolytic character. Coming off as just a bit chunky, though with fine minerality and complexity on the dried apple finish, this strikes me as a wine that needs some bottle age. Probably will be better in 12-18 months. 88pts
8) 2013 Cantina Mori Colli Zugna TrentoDOC Morus dal 1957 12.5%
70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Nero
Total Acidity 5,6 g/l PH 3.25 Residual Sugar 3,2 g/l Marly calcareous mineral soils 400/550 m
3500 vines/ha Chardonnay e 4000 vines/ha Pinot Nero 60 hl/ha pergola for Chardonnay, guyot for Pinot Nero Fermentation in barrique 225 lt 6 months, 36 months on the lees
15500 bottles produced
Super fine perlage and incredible mousse
Floral, woodsy, waxy and rich on the nose. This smells terrific and complex with a bit of chalk and tobacco on the nose with lovely smoky nuance. This really picks up toastiness on the nose with plenty of almost leathery and decidedly woody tones lending this even more aromatic gravitas. After the heavy nose this enters the mouth with energy and a certain richness. There's a vegetal aspect to the flavor profile, which lends complexity and freshness here. A lovely mousse, and such a creamy textured wine rich with flavors of almond, mineral and dried citrus fruit that dominate the palate. Moderately long with good focus on the finish, which gains waxiness and chamomile, white floral nuance. The combination of savory and fruity here is compelling, and while this isn't the longest of these wines, it is very vinous and complex, developing lingering inner mouth perfumes. I need to try this again. 93pts
9) 2013 Borgo dei Posseri TrentoDOC Tananai Brut 12.5%
50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Nero
Total Acidity 7,9 g/l PH 3.13 Residual Sugar 6 g/l
Glacial deposit soil with marly calcareous mineral content 550/720 m 7000 vines/ha
40 hl/ha guyot
traditional white wine vinification in steel tanks (50% Chardonnay 50% Pinot nero) 36 months on the less 7000 produced
Super fine perlage and fine mousse
Citrusy on the nose with notes of dried lime pith with a gentle nuttiness supported by hints of brioche, chalkiness and polleny flowers. The mousse stands out for its coarseness, a bit of a chunky wine, ripe and fresh with green apple and citrus fruit. There is good length here but little nuance, a bit of a one trick pony but very drinkable with a very harmonious, bright, fruit driven core, that works off of freshness and a relatively dry style to highlight the zesty mineral notes on the finish. 87pts
10) 2012 Endrizzi TrentoDOC Pian Castello Brut Riserva 13.0%
60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Nero
Total Acidity 7 g/l PH3.2 Residual Sugar 6 g/l calcareous soils 350/ 420 m
5800 vines/ha 50 hl/ha espalier/guyot
90% stainless steel, 10% barriques for 7 months 42 months on the lees 9000 bottles produced
Slightly coarser perlage
Sweetly fruity on the nose with notes of quince jelly, chalk and tree bark. Here too there is a slight vegetal undertone a bit licorice like with a moderately assertive if clean and fresh forest floor base note. There is some real evolution to the flavors in the mouth, this is quite complex, waxy and nutty with lovely dried orange fruits wrapped yellow apple fruit before finishing with super minerality. A grand vin, long and elegant with a tea and ginseng laced finish that shows off a flash of marshmallow on the finale. Featuring super balance, this combines freshness and evolution very well with a great mineral water tinged finish. 93pts
100% Chardonnay
Total Acidity 6,8 g/l PH 3.2 Residual Sugar 4,5 g/l
mainly limestone soils 300/600 m
2500-4000 vines/ha 60 hl/ha pergola/guyot
80% stainless steel, 20% oak casks (25 hl) for 6 months 30 months on the lees
35000 bottles produced
Delicate perlage slow
With an underlying sweet fruit tone on the nose and assertive yeasty character, this is quite typical Metodo Classico graced with dried apple aromas, a touch of chalk, and an assertive liqueur d'expedition aroma here, fruity in an almost grappa like way. Lush and limey on entry, and in fact remaining quite citrusy across the palate which is a it straightforward, nicely balanced, but a bit simple. Quite elegant and decidedly easy drinking, neither overtly fruity nor overtly sweet though a bit short on the finish. Precise and focused. 88pts
7) 2014 Letrari TrentoDOC Brut Letrari 12.5%
85% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Nero
Total Acidity 6,7 g/l PH 3.4 Residual Sugar 6,5 g/l Calcareous soil, 400 m
4000 vines/ha 70 hl/ha pergola/guyot
stainless steel no oak ageing 30 months on the lees
15000 bottles produced
Medium speed and perlage
Dried peach with a sulphury edge to it, as the sulphur blows off this turns rather reticent on the nose, with hints of dried ginger underpinning a very floral top note and core of hazelnut. Unusual aromas, on the nose. Moderately rich yet remaining brightly textured if darker flavored than many of these wines with dried orchard fruit flavors wrapped around a base of slightly toasty autolytic character. Coming off as just a bit chunky, though with fine minerality and complexity on the dried apple finish, this strikes me as a wine that needs some bottle age. Probably will be better in 12-18 months. 88pts
8) 2013 Cantina Mori Colli Zugna TrentoDOC Morus dal 1957 12.5%
70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Nero
Total Acidity 5,6 g/l PH 3.25 Residual Sugar 3,2 g/l Marly calcareous mineral soils 400/550 m
3500 vines/ha Chardonnay e 4000 vines/ha Pinot Nero 60 hl/ha pergola for Chardonnay, guyot for Pinot Nero Fermentation in barrique 225 lt 6 months, 36 months on the lees
15500 bottles produced
Super fine perlage and incredible mousse
Floral, woodsy, waxy and rich on the nose. This smells terrific and complex with a bit of chalk and tobacco on the nose with lovely smoky nuance. This really picks up toastiness on the nose with plenty of almost leathery and decidedly woody tones lending this even more aromatic gravitas. After the heavy nose this enters the mouth with energy and a certain richness. There's a vegetal aspect to the flavor profile, which lends complexity and freshness here. A lovely mousse, and such a creamy textured wine rich with flavors of almond, mineral and dried citrus fruit that dominate the palate. Moderately long with good focus on the finish, which gains waxiness and chamomile, white floral nuance. The combination of savory and fruity here is compelling, and while this isn't the longest of these wines, it is very vinous and complex, developing lingering inner mouth perfumes. I need to try this again. 93pts
9) 2013 Borgo dei Posseri TrentoDOC Tananai Brut 12.5%
50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Nero
Total Acidity 7,9 g/l PH 3.13 Residual Sugar 6 g/l
Glacial deposit soil with marly calcareous mineral content 550/720 m 7000 vines/ha
40 hl/ha guyot
traditional white wine vinification in steel tanks (50% Chardonnay 50% Pinot nero) 36 months on the less 7000 produced
Super fine perlage and fine mousse
Citrusy on the nose with notes of dried lime pith with a gentle nuttiness supported by hints of brioche, chalkiness and polleny flowers. The mousse stands out for its coarseness, a bit of a chunky wine, ripe and fresh with green apple and citrus fruit. There is good length here but little nuance, a bit of a one trick pony but very drinkable with a very harmonious, bright, fruit driven core, that works off of freshness and a relatively dry style to highlight the zesty mineral notes on the finish. 87pts
10) 2012 Endrizzi TrentoDOC Pian Castello Brut Riserva 13.0%
60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Nero
Total Acidity 7 g/l PH3.2 Residual Sugar 6 g/l calcareous soils 350/ 420 m
5800 vines/ha 50 hl/ha espalier/guyot
90% stainless steel, 10% barriques for 7 months 42 months on the lees 9000 bottles produced
Slightly coarser perlage
Sweetly fruity on the nose with notes of quince jelly, chalk and tree bark. Here too there is a slight vegetal undertone a bit licorice like with a moderately assertive if clean and fresh forest floor base note. There is some real evolution to the flavors in the mouth, this is quite complex, waxy and nutty with lovely dried orange fruits wrapped yellow apple fruit before finishing with super minerality. A grand vin, long and elegant with a tea and ginseng laced finish that shows off a flash of marshmallow on the finale. Featuring super balance, this combines freshness and evolution very well with a great mineral water tinged finish. 93pts
Flight 3: Brut and Riserva
11) 2011 Cantina Ferrari TrentoDOC Perlé Brut 12.5%
100% Chardonnay
Total Acidity 7 g/l PH 3.2 Residual Sugar 5 g/l
Loose, shallow soils made of volcanic and glacial deposit 400/700 m
4500/5500 vines/ha / pergola/guyot
stainless steel no oak ageing 60 months on the lees
400,000 bottles produced
Fine mousse and perlage
Complex and nuanced on the nose showing great integration, to the point where it is tough to pick out individual component but the whole is very complex and attractive with emerging aromas of dried fruits, quince, tea, and bergamot, then turning rather spicy on the nose, wild flowery and seedy, caraway perhaps. Mouth filling, with a touch of sweetness obvious on entry, this is rich and well rounded, creamy on the back end but with plenty of acidity maintaining tension in the mouth. Very citrussy, easygoing if not for the blazing acidity, which supports a modest if fruity finish. This has a certain weight to it, a certain potency that is revealed as a slight sense of clumsiness as the wine warms in the glass. 89pts
12) 2011 Cantina d'Isera TrentoDOC 1907 Brut Riserva 12.5%
100% Chardonnay
Total Acidity 6,7 g/l PH 3.2 Residual Sugar 6 g/l
soils made of volcanic, fluvial and glacial deposit 500/600 m
4500 / 6000 vines/ha 65 hl/ha pergola/guyot
stainless steel no oak ageing 60 months on the less
5000 bottles produced
Fine mousse coarser perlage, fast perlage
Earthy, less attractive on the nose with an assertively spicy medicinal, fennel pollen note layered under peach and tangerine fruit. There’s a slightly candied aspect to the nose here, lots of candied tangerine with dried cheese rind framing notes. Cheesy, and even a bit mousey on the nose, with a hint of lanolin if I’m feeling more charitable. Subtle In the mouth, with an early nutty richness in the mouth followed by flavors that don't jump out at you but are decidedly satisfying if a bit diffuse. Dried apple, green apple, and a lax nuttiness all drift across the palate with fine detail. The finish is long, driven by fruit supported by a creamy, subtle nuttiness. This could use some more length, but this is really very attractive straddling the line between geek wine and broad market wine quite nicely, though the hint of mousiness is a problem if it doesn’t integrate or resolve. The perlage settles down quite nicely lending this a certain caressing delicacy in the mouth. 90pts
13) 2011 Abate Nero TrentoDOC Domini Nero Brut 12.8%
100 % Pinot Nero
Total acidity 7,80 g/l PH 3.1 Residual Sugar 6,8 g/l Calcareous, medium lean soil 350/500 m
3200 vines/ha 55 hl/ha pergola
stainless steel no oak ageing Minimum 48 months on the less
2800 bottles produced
Fine mousse fine perlage
More evolved and a bit randy like with toasty sweetness, vanilla cream and sweet green apple fruit, candied a bit, like a jolly rancher green apple with underlying yeastiness. This lights up on the palate, really vertical in the mouth and focused as it delivers a fairly classic flavor profile of tart orchard fruits, bright and vivid, with lovely, clean autolytic character that drives the slightly gravelly finish. It’s a touch crude in a certain way but every well done. Quite fun to drink and seems fairly dry as it cleanses the palate nicely. Zesty, distinctive, and quite long. 90pts
14) 2010 Mas dei Chini TrentoDOC Inkino Brut Riserva 12.5%
100% Chardonnay
Total Acidity 6.1 g/l PH 3.32 Residual Sugar 3.5 g/l calcareous soils 350 m
5000 vines/ha 60 hl/ha pergola
60% stainless steel, 40% oak cask 30hl for 6 months 60 months on the lees
20000 bottles produced
Fine mousse fine perlage, slow
Reticent though like 11 this has a certain nuanced complexity that is attractive. More floral with a hint of white chocolate, Brie, dried white mushroom, and chalk, very white impression with a fine mousse maintaining real elegant in the mouth in spite of the richness and creaminess here. Integrated sugar is not terribly noticeable though it does help to accentuate the fruit flavors of quince and green apple on the palate. Elegant with a certain lift on the finish, which shows chalky minerality and a touch of white peppery spiciness. Lacks the complexity of the best wines, but the texture here is pure luxury. 90pts
15) 2010 Cesarini Sforza TrentoDOC Extra Brut Riserva 1673 12.5%
100% Chardonnay
Total Acidity 6 g/l PH 3.15 Residual Sugar 4,5 g/l
Sandy, loose soils rich in porphyry 550-670 m
5000 vines/ha 45 hl/ha simple pergola
80% stainless steel, 20% wood for 6 months 60 months on the lees
15000 bottles produced
Fine mousse, fast and slightly coarse perlage
Creamy and toasty on the nose with glazed pastry notes, dried raisins, a bit of hazelnut and lots of vanilla cream; decidedly more typical Champenoise than the rest of this flight. Like it or not the intensity on the nose and complexity is impressive. More tension in the mouth than the nose suggested, this is on the drier side and shows some noble austerity. I prefer a fruitier nose but the nuance, texture, richness and slight creaminess on the palate are gorgeous and that all comes with a classic and intense package of flavors. Deep and long in the mouth, a bit sinewy even with a mineral and dried orange fruit leading to a slight dried pork fat finale, this delivers tons of flavor tons of complexity, it lacks some of the hedonistic quality of some of the other wines in this flight, but this is the most complete of these. Finishes with the rich pastry shop autolytic perfumes of the nose and a spritz of orange oil. A more evolved but more complex wine. 93pts
100% Chardonnay
Total Acidity 7 g/l PH 3.2 Residual Sugar 5 g/l
Loose, shallow soils made of volcanic and glacial deposit 400/700 m
4500/5500 vines/ha / pergola/guyot
stainless steel no oak ageing 60 months on the lees
400,000 bottles produced
Fine mousse and perlage
Complex and nuanced on the nose showing great integration, to the point where it is tough to pick out individual component but the whole is very complex and attractive with emerging aromas of dried fruits, quince, tea, and bergamot, then turning rather spicy on the nose, wild flowery and seedy, caraway perhaps. Mouth filling, with a touch of sweetness obvious on entry, this is rich and well rounded, creamy on the back end but with plenty of acidity maintaining tension in the mouth. Very citrussy, easygoing if not for the blazing acidity, which supports a modest if fruity finish. This has a certain weight to it, a certain potency that is revealed as a slight sense of clumsiness as the wine warms in the glass. 89pts
12) 2011 Cantina d'Isera TrentoDOC 1907 Brut Riserva 12.5%
100% Chardonnay
Total Acidity 6,7 g/l PH 3.2 Residual Sugar 6 g/l
soils made of volcanic, fluvial and glacial deposit 500/600 m
4500 / 6000 vines/ha 65 hl/ha pergola/guyot
stainless steel no oak ageing 60 months on the less
5000 bottles produced
Fine mousse coarser perlage, fast perlage
Earthy, less attractive on the nose with an assertively spicy medicinal, fennel pollen note layered under peach and tangerine fruit. There’s a slightly candied aspect to the nose here, lots of candied tangerine with dried cheese rind framing notes. Cheesy, and even a bit mousey on the nose, with a hint of lanolin if I’m feeling more charitable. Subtle In the mouth, with an early nutty richness in the mouth followed by flavors that don't jump out at you but are decidedly satisfying if a bit diffuse. Dried apple, green apple, and a lax nuttiness all drift across the palate with fine detail. The finish is long, driven by fruit supported by a creamy, subtle nuttiness. This could use some more length, but this is really very attractive straddling the line between geek wine and broad market wine quite nicely, though the hint of mousiness is a problem if it doesn’t integrate or resolve. The perlage settles down quite nicely lending this a certain caressing delicacy in the mouth. 90pts
13) 2011 Abate Nero TrentoDOC Domini Nero Brut 12.8%
100 % Pinot Nero
Total acidity 7,80 g/l PH 3.1 Residual Sugar 6,8 g/l Calcareous, medium lean soil 350/500 m
3200 vines/ha 55 hl/ha pergola
stainless steel no oak ageing Minimum 48 months on the less
2800 bottles produced
Fine mousse fine perlage
More evolved and a bit randy like with toasty sweetness, vanilla cream and sweet green apple fruit, candied a bit, like a jolly rancher green apple with underlying yeastiness. This lights up on the palate, really vertical in the mouth and focused as it delivers a fairly classic flavor profile of tart orchard fruits, bright and vivid, with lovely, clean autolytic character that drives the slightly gravelly finish. It’s a touch crude in a certain way but every well done. Quite fun to drink and seems fairly dry as it cleanses the palate nicely. Zesty, distinctive, and quite long. 90pts
14) 2010 Mas dei Chini TrentoDOC Inkino Brut Riserva 12.5%
100% Chardonnay
Total Acidity 6.1 g/l PH 3.32 Residual Sugar 3.5 g/l calcareous soils 350 m
5000 vines/ha 60 hl/ha pergola
60% stainless steel, 40% oak cask 30hl for 6 months 60 months on the lees
20000 bottles produced
Fine mousse fine perlage, slow
Reticent though like 11 this has a certain nuanced complexity that is attractive. More floral with a hint of white chocolate, Brie, dried white mushroom, and chalk, very white impression with a fine mousse maintaining real elegant in the mouth in spite of the richness and creaminess here. Integrated sugar is not terribly noticeable though it does help to accentuate the fruit flavors of quince and green apple on the palate. Elegant with a certain lift on the finish, which shows chalky minerality and a touch of white peppery spiciness. Lacks the complexity of the best wines, but the texture here is pure luxury. 90pts
15) 2010 Cesarini Sforza TrentoDOC Extra Brut Riserva 1673 12.5%
100% Chardonnay
Total Acidity 6 g/l PH 3.15 Residual Sugar 4,5 g/l
Sandy, loose soils rich in porphyry 550-670 m
5000 vines/ha 45 hl/ha simple pergola
80% stainless steel, 20% wood for 6 months 60 months on the lees
15000 bottles produced
Fine mousse, fast and slightly coarse perlage
Creamy and toasty on the nose with glazed pastry notes, dried raisins, a bit of hazelnut and lots of vanilla cream; decidedly more typical Champenoise than the rest of this flight. Like it or not the intensity on the nose and complexity is impressive. More tension in the mouth than the nose suggested, this is on the drier side and shows some noble austerity. I prefer a fruitier nose but the nuance, texture, richness and slight creaminess on the palate are gorgeous and that all comes with a classic and intense package of flavors. Deep and long in the mouth, a bit sinewy even with a mineral and dried orange fruit leading to a slight dried pork fat finale, this delivers tons of flavor tons of complexity, it lacks some of the hedonistic quality of some of the other wines in this flight, but this is the most complete of these. Finishes with the rich pastry shop autolytic perfumes of the nose and a spritz of orange oil. A more evolved but more complex wine. 93pts
Flight 4: Riserva and Rosé Brut
16) 2009 Pisoni F.lli TrentoDOC Extra Brut Riserva 12.5%
85% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Nero
Total Acidity 5,31 g/l PH 3.47 Residual Sugar 3,2 g/l Glacial deposit soil with marly calcareous mineral content 250/350 m
3500 vines/ha 70 hl/ha pergola/guyot
stainless steel no oak ageing 90 months on the lees 1800 bottles produced
Fine mousse very fine perlage
Fruity, complexity on the nose with notes of both fresh fruit and drying fruit layered in amongst aromas of tobacco, tea, dried pork fat, and subtly nutty notes. Smoky and meaty on the nose with lots of forest floor character. Possessing a fine, relaxed mousse, this feels broad on the palate and very rich in the mouth, with subtlety to the earthy flavors,. There's some dried orange skin here, along with green apple flavors but they are all wrapped up in flavors of hazelnut, butchers wax, and piecrust that lead to a moderately long, vaguely honeyed and subtly mineral laced finish. Impressive for its size and deftness considering that size, though this is nonetheless a touch too restrained for me; refined but so big, something feels a bit off. 88pts
17) 2009 Rotaliana di Mezzolombardo TrentoDOC Redor Brut Riserva 13.0%
70 % Chardonnay, 30 % Pinot Nero
Total acidity 6,30 g/l PH 3.45 Residual Sugar 6,0 g/l
dry soils, clay or limestone-gypsum 300/700 m
3500 vines/ha 65 hl/ha pergola
stainless steel, 7/10% barriques for4/5 months 80 months on the lees
8,000 bottles produced
Fine mousse. medium fine perlage
Bright and vivid on the nose which shows layers of pollen and flowers joined by the aromas of hazelnut, soil, chalk, steel, white raspberry and strawberry top fruit Showing great vinosity, the nose continues to evolve with air, gaining a subtle caramel sweetness, with a touch of beet root earthy/sweetness. Noticeable sugar in the mouth, though there's an edginess that this still manages to maintain, though the flavor profile is one of sweetness: challah bread, almost panettone, raisins, powdered sugar, vanilla, all come together in the mouth is a fairly intense display of flavors. Noticeably sweet on the finish as well, this is sure to be very popular, though is too sweet for my palate A bit ponderous on the finish, still it started off so aromatically attractive. 88pts
18) Balter TrentoDOC Rosé Brut 12.5%
80% Pinot Nero, 20% Chardonnay
Total Acidity 6,4 g/l PH 3 Residual Sugar 5,5 g/l
Morainic soils 350 m
5000/10000 vines/ha 65 hl/ha pergola/guyot
stainless steel (85%), oak cask 25 hl (15%) for 4 months minimum 24 months on the lees
4000 bottles produced
Fine slow bubbles
Strawberry, mineral, hay, and pie crust with an underlying ferrous minerality blend with subtle green waxy notes on the nose. Elegant, fine and bright with lovely balance in the mouth, this has a subtle creaminess, medium full bodied; the texture is so smooth and supple. Delivering taut flavors of apple and golden raspberry on the palate, the acid really keeps this vivid, and shines on the long, vibrant and juicy finish. Shows restraint and elegance, not the most complex though it does satisfy the palate with its lean, bright character. May not be too all tastes, and no doubt better with food. 88pts
19) Cantine Monfort TrentoDOC Rosé Brut 12.5%
50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Nero
Total Acidity 7,73 g/l PH 3.15 Residual Sugar 8,7 g/l glacial deposit soil with marly calcareous mineral content 400/700 m
4000 vines/ha 85 hl/ha espalier/pergola
stainless steel no oak ageing 30 months on the lees
3500 bottles produced
Fine slightly fast bubbles
Croissant, a little apricot, and some green strawberry tops come together on the nose which is underpinned by dark, slatey minerality and blanched almond aromas. Certainly slightly coarser than the previous wine, but at the same time this is more vinous in the mouth, more intensely flavored with mineral notes that fill the palate and drive the long finish. A touch softer, and sweeter, though still vivid on the palate while delivering crystal clear flavors of small wild berries, touches of wild mushroom and lovely green plum accent notes. The sweetness is well integrated, offering some rounding to what is a fairly angular wine. Neither the most complete, nor the most elegant wine, this is perhaps the most boisterous wine of the day and I would imagine that some additional bottle age will yield certain benefits here. 89pts
20) 2013 Maso Martis TrentoDOC Extra Brut Rosé Riserva Bio 12.5%
100 % Pinot Nero
Total Acidity 6,5 g/l PH 3.2 Residual Sugar 4 g/l Calcareous soils rich in red Trentino rock 450 m 3500/5000 vines/ha 50 hl/ha pergola/guyot
stainless steel no oak ageing 48 months on the lees
5000 bottles produced
Slightly coarser medium slow bubbles
On another level than the previous two wines with far more autolytic character, and complexity. This is oily and dark in the mouth with cherry fruit layered over a base of spicy floral, vegetal cardoon, and earthy, quartzy soil tones, hints of beetroot, smoke, and slightly vegetal, red currant, strawberry, juniper laced fruit just adds additional complexity. A rich, lovely wine that is complex yet youthful, bright and very mineral on the palate, with an energetic refined mousse and a persistence to the cherry skin fruit and minerality on the finish that is quite stunning. Showing just a suggestion of caramel on the palate that is washed away by the significant acidity of the finish, there's fine vinosity here as well though the autolytic character matches it step for step. Gorgeously well integrated and with pinpoint balance. 94pts
85% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Nero
Total Acidity 5,31 g/l PH 3.47 Residual Sugar 3,2 g/l Glacial deposit soil with marly calcareous mineral content 250/350 m
3500 vines/ha 70 hl/ha pergola/guyot
stainless steel no oak ageing 90 months on the lees 1800 bottles produced
Fine mousse very fine perlage
Fruity, complexity on the nose with notes of both fresh fruit and drying fruit layered in amongst aromas of tobacco, tea, dried pork fat, and subtly nutty notes. Smoky and meaty on the nose with lots of forest floor character. Possessing a fine, relaxed mousse, this feels broad on the palate and very rich in the mouth, with subtlety to the earthy flavors,. There's some dried orange skin here, along with green apple flavors but they are all wrapped up in flavors of hazelnut, butchers wax, and piecrust that lead to a moderately long, vaguely honeyed and subtly mineral laced finish. Impressive for its size and deftness considering that size, though this is nonetheless a touch too restrained for me; refined but so big, something feels a bit off. 88pts
17) 2009 Rotaliana di Mezzolombardo TrentoDOC Redor Brut Riserva 13.0%
70 % Chardonnay, 30 % Pinot Nero
Total acidity 6,30 g/l PH 3.45 Residual Sugar 6,0 g/l
dry soils, clay or limestone-gypsum 300/700 m
3500 vines/ha 65 hl/ha pergola
stainless steel, 7/10% barriques for4/5 months 80 months on the lees
8,000 bottles produced
Fine mousse. medium fine perlage
Bright and vivid on the nose which shows layers of pollen and flowers joined by the aromas of hazelnut, soil, chalk, steel, white raspberry and strawberry top fruit Showing great vinosity, the nose continues to evolve with air, gaining a subtle caramel sweetness, with a touch of beet root earthy/sweetness. Noticeable sugar in the mouth, though there's an edginess that this still manages to maintain, though the flavor profile is one of sweetness: challah bread, almost panettone, raisins, powdered sugar, vanilla, all come together in the mouth is a fairly intense display of flavors. Noticeably sweet on the finish as well, this is sure to be very popular, though is too sweet for my palate A bit ponderous on the finish, still it started off so aromatically attractive. 88pts
18) Balter TrentoDOC Rosé Brut 12.5%
80% Pinot Nero, 20% Chardonnay
Total Acidity 6,4 g/l PH 3 Residual Sugar 5,5 g/l
Morainic soils 350 m
5000/10000 vines/ha 65 hl/ha pergola/guyot
stainless steel (85%), oak cask 25 hl (15%) for 4 months minimum 24 months on the lees
4000 bottles produced
Fine slow bubbles
Strawberry, mineral, hay, and pie crust with an underlying ferrous minerality blend with subtle green waxy notes on the nose. Elegant, fine and bright with lovely balance in the mouth, this has a subtle creaminess, medium full bodied; the texture is so smooth and supple. Delivering taut flavors of apple and golden raspberry on the palate, the acid really keeps this vivid, and shines on the long, vibrant and juicy finish. Shows restraint and elegance, not the most complex though it does satisfy the palate with its lean, bright character. May not be too all tastes, and no doubt better with food. 88pts
19) Cantine Monfort TrentoDOC Rosé Brut 12.5%
50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Nero
Total Acidity 7,73 g/l PH 3.15 Residual Sugar 8,7 g/l glacial deposit soil with marly calcareous mineral content 400/700 m
4000 vines/ha 85 hl/ha espalier/pergola
stainless steel no oak ageing 30 months on the lees
3500 bottles produced
Fine slightly fast bubbles
Croissant, a little apricot, and some green strawberry tops come together on the nose which is underpinned by dark, slatey minerality and blanched almond aromas. Certainly slightly coarser than the previous wine, but at the same time this is more vinous in the mouth, more intensely flavored with mineral notes that fill the palate and drive the long finish. A touch softer, and sweeter, though still vivid on the palate while delivering crystal clear flavors of small wild berries, touches of wild mushroom and lovely green plum accent notes. The sweetness is well integrated, offering some rounding to what is a fairly angular wine. Neither the most complete, nor the most elegant wine, this is perhaps the most boisterous wine of the day and I would imagine that some additional bottle age will yield certain benefits here. 89pts
20) 2013 Maso Martis TrentoDOC Extra Brut Rosé Riserva Bio 12.5%
100 % Pinot Nero
Total Acidity 6,5 g/l PH 3.2 Residual Sugar 4 g/l Calcareous soils rich in red Trentino rock 450 m 3500/5000 vines/ha 50 hl/ha pergola/guyot
stainless steel no oak ageing 48 months on the lees
5000 bottles produced
Slightly coarser medium slow bubbles
On another level than the previous two wines with far more autolytic character, and complexity. This is oily and dark in the mouth with cherry fruit layered over a base of spicy floral, vegetal cardoon, and earthy, quartzy soil tones, hints of beetroot, smoke, and slightly vegetal, red currant, strawberry, juniper laced fruit just adds additional complexity. A rich, lovely wine that is complex yet youthful, bright and very mineral on the palate, with an energetic refined mousse and a persistence to the cherry skin fruit and minerality on the finish that is quite stunning. Showing just a suggestion of caramel on the palate that is washed away by the significant acidity of the finish, there's fine vinosity here as well though the autolytic character matches it step for step. Gorgeously well integrated and with pinpoint balance. 94pts