2009-2015 Barbera Tasted in 2017
I have been vacillating between praise for Dolcetto and Barbera for years. When Dolcetto was competing for world’s strongest wine I was a vocal critic of the wines, though not all producers went down that path. I like my Dolcetto light, fresh, and fragrant, but my Barbera on the other hand, should be robust, dark, rich, and from a warm vintage. While producers say Dolcetto is the most difficult wine to make I think Barbera might be the most difficult fruit to grow. At least if you’re trying to make great Barbera. You really need a great growing season, long is preferable and a certain degree of warmth s almost a necessity to help Barbera find its acid/fruit balance. The downside to all this is that Barbera tends to be a higher alcohol wine.
With that in mind let me get this out of the way. 2015 is the greatest Barbera vintage I have ever tried. To a certain extent that has been aided by the experience producer have accumulated over the year as well as Barbera finding its way in the marketplace, due in no small part to the price point many of these wines occupy having been vacated by Barolo and even many Nebbiolo.
While Dolcetto is finding it’s groove as the great table wine, Barbera is finding it’s way as a sort of smaller scaled moderately special occasion wine. Not that the wines themselves seem to be special occasion wines, it is in fact their ability to pair so well with special occassion food that is moving them into the role. Yes they are still great with burgers, but today's Barbera from a great vintage like 2015 is going to age very well and become the perfect, bright, velvety, nuanced partner for a roast leg of lamb, prime rib, or osso buco! The general high alcohols also have moved Barbera from my weekday table to the weekends, further reinforcing its role.
In the marketplace today one will also find some previous vintages of Barbera. Of note are the lovely, open, and rather transparent 2013s and the taut, etched 2014s that are often not the most complete wines, but at their best they are delicious, if veering off slightly into Dolcetto like light table wine territory. I can appreciate all of these vintage but when push comes to shove I will almost always prefer one of the great 2015s. They are benchmark wines and remain very affordable.
I will tell you that I think Barbera is underappreciated; there are great wines on this list that will drink terrifically for a decade at prices that everyone can afford.
2009 Barbera
2009 La Spinona Barbera d'Alba Superiore
8-9 months in 25 hl botte
Shows its age on the nose with lots of caramel, bouillon, and burnt sugar notes accenting the core of burnt marshmallow laced, dark, plummy fruit. A big chewy wine that's showing at peak with spiky acids embedded in rich fruit, not the freshest nor purest but this is medium-large scaled and polished. Finishing a bit on the shorter side though the acidity lends river stone minerality to the finish which shows some dark evolved fruit notes on the finale. 87pts
2009 Flavio Roddolo Barbera d'Alba 14%
Fairly leathery and subtly but firmly bretty on the nose. This is a little too shitty for me to get much more, there is underlying fruit and flowers but only hints. Lovely on entry if a bit compressed in the mouth. There’s nice interplay between the bit of fruit sweetness and good refreshing acids on the palate. Nice length with red plum fruit emerging on the long finish along with hints of eucalyptus and violet pastille. Pleasant but the nose is not generous, except with stinkiness, and the palate remains a bit compressed. 80pts
2012 Barbera
2012 Elena Giuseppe Barbera d'Alba Superiore Alferi 14.5%
2 weeks on the skins, 2013 and before this saw only barrique, after half in botte, 20hl and up
The 2012 saw 24 months in barrique, 30% new the rest second passage
Very nicely framed aromas, more floral and blue fruited, though picking up some noticeable sweetness from the oak, not intrusive but almost. In the mouth the wood is mostly resolved, with fine brightness, and detail to the plum skins fruit. This a sinewy muscular style with hints of wood and a mineral wash on the long finish which still retains lots of fruit with appropriate evolution. A nice product to have in the market at this stage of evolution. 88pts
2011 Barbera
2011 Lorenzo Accomasso Barbera Pochi Filagn 15.5%
A bit evolved on the nose, dark, earthy, spicy, rich with plummy fruit. Clean and precise in the mouth with flavors of dark, rich cocoa dusted plummy fruit. Long intense and powerful perfectly suited for bread and Salumi as Lorenzo suggests. For a huge wine this is rather vibrant with pure plum and slightly prune juice that has a little chocolate covered cherries, liquoroso quality to it. The alcohol is present but, rather remarkably, it is really is not intrusive. 90pts
2013 Barbera
2013 Giuseppe Mascarello Barbera Scudetto 14.5%
Has the earthy base that Barbera gets with age though it remains complex, with carob and date accents to the core of dark fruit. On the palate this is quite fresh. Elegant and almost silky with a cool compressed feel to it, lovely tannins with acidity that is very fresh and lively in the mouth, this really is in a sweet spot, offering fine length, beautiful, detailed, nuanced style, none of the fat and sweet black fruit that young Barbera has, though it does show a hint of alcohol. 92pts
2013 Aldo Conterno Barbera TrePile 14%
Sees 14 months in oak, after couple of months in SS, for foe decant, 18 months in bottle, malo started April 14 finished in June
Shows some wood sweetness and spiciness on the nose, along with dark jellied black cherry and blackberry fruit. Typically high acid on the palate though one can see the balancing act this performs with plenty of clean and fresh, sliced plum fruit wrapped around the vibrant acids, with a gentle sweetness from the wood accenting the midplane before this turns rathe mineral over the long finish with hints of blood orange. There's a nice density here married with fine freshness, has a similar style in a certain way with the house Chardonnay, a bit middle of the road. There's a blackberry mineral thing going on here that just a little exotic through the finish. 90pts
2013 Fracassi Ratti Mentone Barbera
Deeply aromatic with mocha tinged black plum and black cherry fruit on the nose. In the mouth this is big yet supple, lavish in fact though with great balance, a fair bit of flesh superbly balanced by cutting acids, and a fantastic cleansing finish with huge inner mouth perfumes of fresh fruit, moist earth, and a hint of prune. Entirely joyful and so drinkable. 90pts
2013 Poderi Oddero Barbera d'Alba Superiore 13.5%
More on the floral side of the aromatic spectrum with red fruit and stone supporting on the nose. Light and fresh in the mouth with lovely cut and minerality and just a suggestion of sweet wood spice. This is bracing on the palate but with enough flesh to keep it round and balanced through the long, sleek, and steely mineral finish. 90pts
2013 Rizieri Barbera d’Alba Superiore 14%
Fourth passage wood
There's more obvious fruit here with an underlying sweetness, plummy with orchard fruits note, while still shows that slightly stemmy underbrush note. In the mouth this is silky, lacks some of the angularity of the 14 but delivers rather intense if pure red plum and red cherry fruit, with almost no perceptible tannins. Kind of lush and silky without being heavy, decidedly fruit driven with a hint of minerality on the midpalate, and a touch of nutty oak on the backend which gains terrific sour cherry fruit with good length. A smaller styled Barbera, but very Barbera: juicy, lovely bright finish, very long. 90pts
2013 Ettore Germano Barbera d'Alba Superiore Vigna della Madre 14%
Aged in used barrique and tonneaux of 700l
Pencil shavings and dark fruit are very well married on the nose and yes, while it's obviously somewhat oaky the wood is not not covering the fruit, framing it instead. Soft, powerful, and fruit driven in the mouth, there’s a lovely texture here, again a fairly elegant rendition though this is more complex and powerful than the Barbera d’Alba with fine depth on the palate, good length, and a sense of purity and vibrancy on the finish, Acid is present but not intrusive, and the nose grows with air turning more rose petal scented and floral with a touch of wood tannin lending grab to the finish. All in all a lovey wine, and in many way better than the Barbera d’Alba, but not as fun and easy to drink. It is more serious. 90pts
2013 Viberti Barbera d’Alba Superiore Bricco Airoli 13%
Three parcels co fermented 30-54 year old, one parcel lies within Bricco delle Viole
Dark on the nose with leathery top notes, spicy with hints of older wood and Salumi. Big rich yet not heavy mouthfeel, good length, complex and elegant with lovely clarity to the tart red fruit on the palate, showing hints of cranberry laced through dark cherry and wild strawberry fruit that drifts off through the fairly long finish. Very well done with acids that are present but integrated into the fruit. 89pts
2013 RIzzi Barbera d’Alba
Clean and precise on the nose with gorgeous wild blackberry and cherry. fruit. Showing real clarity on the palate, with good cut, though not an overly acidic style. Flavors are a bit animal on the palate with a base of precise red fruits and a juicy, moderately long finish. 87pts
2013 Brezza Barbera d’Alba Superiore 13.5%
Has some age on it and shows it on the nose, which is a bit earthy, leathery, and spicy in an old school Barbera way. Light and juicy in the mouth, showing some jammy tones to the wild berry fruit, with acids that are very well integrated. A bit short perhaps, though certainly transparent in a very drinkable, easy going style with a nice hint of complexity helping to add detail and decent length. 86pts
2013 Giacomo Vico Barbera d'Alba Superiore
8-9 days spontaneous fermentation
Aged in 300 liter barrels of French oak, half new
Shows mocha and white chocolate on eh nose from the wood, a bit of red meat, very raw beef and those little perfumed edible flowers, a touch soapy and floral. Soft and almost gentle on entry, this oddly seems more built on tannins than acids. Elegant and clear, glassy even in the mouth you can feel the sand in the soil. Very nice even if it lacks a touch of brightness and fruit. 85pts
2014 Barbera
2014 Palladino Barbera d'Alba Superiore Bricco dell Olive 13%
15 months in 500 liter tonneaux, 50% new
Intense and savory on the nose medicinal with an herbal top note. The oak is not quite dominant but it's really covering the more subtle aromatics, for 14 there's a lot of plum here on the nose. In the mouth this is quite good, vibrant, transparent, with a subtle caressing fleshiness on the palate. Iit's a touch simple but deliciously fruity in a fresh plummy way. Oak influence is really mostly aromatic as there is little wood tannin here, lovely fine elegant texture, refined Barbera good acidity, not cutting but very juicy. 89pts
2014 Boasso Barbera d’Alba superiore 14%
Nose shows some wood accents, a bit spicy and cigar boxy, lending sweetness as well. In the mouth this is medium bodied with fresh, acidity that is in harmony in an elegant, steely style with sliced red plum fruit. A gentle sweetness from wood emerges on the backend and through the long, cutting, finish. The flavors here are jammy, though the texture is much more energetic with a hint of tannin lending this firmness. Pretty lovely and transparent Barbera with strong flavors. 88pts
2014 Elio Grasso Barbera Vigna Martina 13.5%
Aged 15 months in barrique, half new half second passage
Very lithe and lean in the mouth, a pretty wine, focused, cool even a little compressed and a bit front loaded here, though there is length. The nose is reticent revealing a bit of camphor on the nose and some gentle berry fruit. In the mouth this is transparent with a classic flavor profile, fine minerality, offering really good cut on the finish. This resembles the Dolcetto this year quite a bit. The higher than usual acidity might have played a strong mitigating factor with the oak here, which shows up as just a touch of milk chocolate on the finish but otherwise I just find the rounded softness coming from the oak. Turns a little spicy and peppery particularly on the finale, almost bracing. 88pts
2014 Rizieri Barbera d’Alba Superiore 14%
12 days fermentation then aged in 25-30hl botte, one tonneaux per big barrel, for 13 months
A little smoky on the nose, has a gentle impact of wood still obvious with lots of frutti del Bosco notes on the nose and a hint of underbrush. A step up in concentration of fruitiness, more tannins but more rounded tannins, and acid is bright and really drives the finish which is lingering. This retains good transparency in the mouth, if being a bit broad shoulder and slender waisted, and gains some weight on the finish Shows wonderful fruit character, with just a suggestion of chewiness here, really well done wine though it lacks a bit of varietal character. 88pts
2014 G.D. Vajra Barbera d’Alba Superiore 14%
30-35 days on the skins followed by a year in Slavonian botte
Leathery, spicy, and complex on the nose with a hint of nuttiness and notes of small wild cherry fruit. Lean in the mouth but this has a soft cover of fruity flesh in the mouth. A bright, immediate, focused and balanced wine with good length. It’s not grand, but this is long, elegant and refined, with a nice subtle aromatic nature to the finish. 88pts
2014 Cascina delle Rose Barbera Superiore Donna Elena 13.5%
Instead of the usual twenty months this spent 17 months due to the vintage
Earthy, savory and aromatic on the nose, this is filled with forest floor and leathery notes. Supple but focused in the mouth, there's lovely harmony to this in the mouth with some supple tannins adding some fleshiness to the core of otherwise lean and bright oatmeal laced red plummy fruit with little flashes of tart red cherry. A bit spicy in the mouth, with air freshening the nose, this is eminently drinkable, not the best ever but solid for the vintage I do wish it were longer because if there is a shortcoming it’s the quick finish. 87pts
2014 Alberto Burzi Barbera
Aged in inox
A bit smokey on the nose, with pure and vibrant aromas of dark earth, plum, and Iris. In the mouth this is tense mineral driven, and lean from the vintage, with transparent and pure black plum skin flavors presented in a rather elegant package. A bright wine but not nervous and finishing with wet river stone character, this is moderately complex and well balanced. A rather detailed wine from the vintage. 87pts
2014 Marcarini Barbera d'Alba Ciabot Camerano
Nine months in inox and nine in the newer botte, 13%
Lovely aromatics, deep and earthy, a little leathery, a little smoky, a little floral but not particular distinctive, just lending the depth and complexity that keeps this particularly interesting to smell. Subtle and nuanced. This is lovely in the mouth, just a thin sheen of fruit again, baby fat paired with elegant, and so well balanced. Juicy and pure if turning a touch rich up front, a little chocolatey on the midpalate, then returning to finely textured and transparent on the moderately long, steely and acidically tense finish. Uncomplicated, but really well balanced and super drinkable. 87pts
2014 Livio Pavese Barbera del Monferrato 13.5%
10 days on the skins followed by about a year in 40hl-80hl botte, which are refreshed annually.
Shows heat and a touch of wood on the nose, actually a strong aroma of pencil shavings. This is perhaps trying a little too hard. In the mouth the oak is well integrated, leaving one with a very mineral in style of Barbera rich with cherry fruit and big acids providing excellent cut on the palate. This is a lovely wine with good length, it needs a six months for the wood to integrate and is a touch simple but still very attractive. 87pts
2014 Paitin di Pasquero-Elia Barbera d'Alba Serra 13.5%
Roto fermenter is used for Dolcetto and Barbera, 8-9 days
Started in 97 with the Rotos,, in 2010 began working with Dante Scaglione, lasted until 2016
15 months in botte grande 30 Hl all Slavonian
Raw on the nose, undeveloped but fresh. A bit fleshy and supple in the mouth yet attractively so. Very fruity without being soupy, maybe in a vintage like this the rotofermentors work well, extracting maximum fruit yet not adding weight. This has a light evergreen top note, clean and fresh on the moderately long finish. Really red fruited, a bit simple but very fresh, clean, and long. 86pts
2014 Cascina Alberta Barbera d'Alba Tres
Six months in botte
Earthy and lean on the nose with a decidedly savory aromatic profile featuring some beef broth notes and a little dried porcini layered over dark, slightly dried, tea tinged fruit. Lean on the palate and fresher and more delicate and elegant than the 2015. Transparent a bit subdued in the mouth after the exuberance of the 2015 but with nuance and detail; also somewhat short but definitely easier on the palate and a more pleasurably drink. 85pts
2014 Palladino Barbera d'Alba Superiore 13%
A little more than one year in botte grande
Spicy and mineral on the nose, a bit smoky and not very fruit driven. Nice and very fresh in style; really wonderful interpretation of the vintage, crisp and bright and very mineral on the modest finish which shows a little spicy note. There’s a pleasant wash of fruit in the mouth but this is decidedly not a fruity wine. 85pts
2014 Le Ginestre Barbera d’Alba 14%
Very savory on the nose, complex with spicy notes and tons of gun powdered. Mineral and lean in the mouth with some roundness, lots of minerality, and a hint of dried rose petals. Not great, but fresh and interesting though it needs more fruit. 84pts
2014 Cascina Ballarin Barbera d’Alba Pilade
6 months in wood, 700-1000-1500 HL
7-8 days of fermentation followed by another week on the skins
Sweetly floral, simple, gentle and attractive on the nose. In the mouth this is very light and delicate, there's pleasant if diaphanous fruit here, a bit of dark cherry and red plummy fruit, which is nicely rendered in a balanced and juicy, if notably simple style. Very drinkable, this would be lovely with a slight chill to it. 83pts
2014 Francesco Clerico Barbera d'Alba Vigna Mondoca 13%
Light bodied and nicely fruity in a plummy red register. All acid with almost no tannin. A bit lean, pleasant and integrated but lacking a little substance and showing a hint of evolution already. Pleasant tart and simple 83pts
2014 Giacosa Fratelli Maria Giovanna Barbera d'Alba 14%
First made it in 1985 with barrique, one year in barrique 40% new
Smells of oak, not spicy but oaky in a more cigar box and cedar sort of way along with hints of tar. Fine and elegant in the mouth, this lacks the core of intensity to really stand up to this oak treatment but this is pleasant and well balanced with red plum and slightly candied red cherry fruit, short though and on never loses sight of the oak here. 83pts
2014 Giovanni Rosso Barbera d’Alba Donna Margherita.
Aged only in inox
Hibiscus and orange frame the jellied, candied cherry fruit nose.Moderately rich on the palate with lovely playful texture early on the palate that becomes sticky and spackley on the backend. Fruity, simple but pleasant and quite fresh, with good acidity that somehow can’t keep this from being tacky on the palate and hard to drink. 82pts
2015 Barbera
2015 Elvio Cogno Barbera d'Alba Bricco dei Merli 14.5%
One year in botte, 15-25 Hl
This is incredibly fragrant, I can smell this from quite a distance with its cocoa dusted and slightly creamy blend of dark berry and black cherry fruit. Gauzy and fine, showing a certain restraint, this is a fabulous showing. So fine, deep and rich in the mouth and yet remaining elegant, man this is fresh on the palate, a touch salty, layered and ultra refined with acids that are real Barbera but so well integrated. A top Barbera, the finish is stunningly pure, a strong showing, texturally perfect, hard to imagine a better Barbera. 95pts
2015 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d’Alba Francia 15%
from botte
So much more masculine and intense than the Barbera Cerretta with an herbal base to the complex, mineral and savory aromas that show a little cured meats, more intense floral aromas and a little India ink.Richer and denser on entry, yet not as expansive in the mouth as the Barbera Cerretta at this point. There’s a rich palate of dark fruit, a little opaque still, though juicy and with good length. Both more embryonic and in more of a chiseled style with phenomenal depth on the plate while retaining a quartzy, icy minerality that grounds this on the palate. 94pts
2015 Chiara Boschis Barbera d'Alba Superiore 14.5%
From 2010 reintroduced in 2000 l barrels
This is a study in the graphite and ivy aromatics of Barbera that gain a hint of underlying sweetness to the nose along with a whiff of oak. Again a touch rich, this has a fine wrap of fruit over a linear and tense structure, offering an extract of Barbera on the palate and showing super length. Vibrant, rich, yet transparent and remarkably supple with tons of sweet black fruit all underpinned by important acids. There's real Barbera cut here, there's also a nice mineral accent that adds salinity to the very long fruit driven finish. A great Barbera Superiore. 93pts
2015 G.B. Burlotto Barbera d’Alba Aves 15%
There a suggestion of wood here on the nose, chocolate and mocha toned but very well integrated into the core of sliced plum fruit, pressed flowers, pollen and a suggestion of wild fennel. Richer for sure, and fuller in the mouth than the base Barbera, but this doesn't fall into the trap of being weightier. There's an elegance here, with such purity to the fruit, a gorgeous wine, though not shy with the alcohol, even if it is really well restrained. Vibrant and juicy with assertive, fresh black plummy and black cherry fruit, laced with gently peppery and minty spicy, that lingers on the long intense finish. Powerful yet elegant Barbera with an incredible richness to the fruit. 93pts
2015 Luigi Oddero Barbera d’Alba 15%
Tank sample
Part in wood part in concrete. Saw 2-3 monthsin new 85hl French oak barrels, 6.4gramz acid
Tight on the nose with subtle notes of, leather, dry blackberry fruit and a hint of nuttiness and tea. Rich, seamless wine, powerful and juicy with a vague plummy jam undercurrent. Taut and driven by good acidity the acid is so well integrated just popping on the refreshing finish. This demands a. nice steak as it has a bloody nuance to the wild berry fruit on the palate which develops some aromatic herb stem complexity. There's a lot of extract here, and this is remarkably long. 93pts
2015 Ferdinando Principiano Barbera d'Alba Laura 13%
Serralunga and in Sant'Anna, two weeks on skins, 2016 is the last vintage for the Serralunga fruit which has been repainted to Nebbiolo , only inox, started harvest 28 August, finished 28 of september, 20 days early, after the first rain
Tight on the nose with subtle aromas of graphite, ivy, and dark plummy fruit. Supple in the mouth with just the thinnest blanket of fruit wrapped around fine grained tannins and juicy, vibrant acidity. This is long with real persistence to the pure fruit, with such detail and precision to the fruit. Not the most complex example of Barbera but it is near perfect for what I look for in Barbera: fresh yet dark on the palate, long and refreshing on the finish. Textbook Barbera. 93pts
2015 Brovia Barbera d'Alba Sori del Drago 14%
Only SS
Compressed on the nose, very ivy toned with a little artichoke followed by dusty graphite note and a top layer of India ink and a hint of blue plum fruit. Vibrant and lovely in the mouth medium bodied but zesty with a lovely texture. There's a little fat here but so much acid that it's barely noticeable, just a little grape skin tannin adding flesh in the mouth as well, then this turns liquory on the long finish with tons of plummy fruit. This would be a bit chewy with slightly less acid, the sparse yet supple tannins pepper the very persistent finish. Very fine Barbera just a bit large in scale. 92pts
2015 Cascina delle Rose Barbera d'Alba 14%
16 months in botte grande
So pretty on the nose with red plum and sour cherry aromas supported by subtle green leaf, chalk, and astringent accent notes. In the mouth this has the most subtle layer of flesh, fine and gauzy with rich red fruit flavors, red cherry and something spicier almost lingonberry or boysenberry laced. Fine acid lift on the palate and a faint whisper of tannins lend this form in the mouth with a touch of blue fruit and green herbal nuance leading to a long, juicy, slightly jammy red fruited finish. Seamless, pure and vibrant, a beautifully tender Barbera though the alcohol does show through, there is a seductive length there. 92pts
2015 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d’Alba Cerretta
from botte around 15%
A bit spicy on the nose with masses of dark fruit, a bit balsamic, lots of fresh plummy fruit with a very nice mineral and vaguely forest floor tones. Not massive, in fact rather elegant in the mouth with juicy, rich plummy fruit, in a fairly tannic style with a certain meatiness on the palate. Alcohol is slightly noticeable on the backend. Nuanced and really quite fine, elegant in spite of its mass, though it's not notable rich or viscous in the mouth, with a lightly mineral and light cocoa tone on the finish. Purity and power. 92pts
2015 Ghisolfi Barbera d’Alba 14.5%
6-7 days all sponti one part in Botte another in barrique and tonneaux, very little new
Very assertive nose, all black spice, soil, and black plum and black cherry fruit. In the mouth this starts off a touch tight but is very fine grained and linear, pure is an understatement with a nearly velvety yet weightless mouthfeel It delivers palate saturating flavor but with a lightness and a clean, edgy almost steely finish. Really very fine Barbera that shows compelling inner mouth perfumes. No sense of alcohol either. 92pts
2015 Francesco Rinaldi Barbera d'Alba 14.5%
One year in botte bottled in Nov
15 day fermentation followed by one year in 50 HL botte
Still very youthful on the nose, the year in bottle seems required, rather fragrant for Barbera with a candied fruitiness accented by floral, rose and Iris, India ink, and leather aromas. Almost a bit thick, certainly powerful, smooth and polished in the mouth with great depth on the palate, lovely vinosity and richness to the dark fruit, with a graphite note on the back end, Jammy black cherry fruit dominates the palate and while not a super high acid example this is rather seamless, elegant and a nearly perfect representation in this style. The finish shows the power of the bitter cherry and plum skin fruit but also offers nice lift and refreshing if not brisk acidity. There may be more important examples of Barbera out there, but this blends approachability and richness of fruit rather effortlessly and is absolutely delicious. 92pts
2015 Elio Sandri Barbera Superiore 14.5%
very few weeks in bottle
Tight on the nose but fine with icy, purple plums, smoke and cherry aromas with hints of sandalwood and old wood. Very fresh in the mouth, a certain richness here but with cut, and real depth on the palate, there's purity to the fruit, it's a tight core of remarkably pure, black plum skin fruit. With real tension in the mouth, not just acid driven but this has a rare tannin presence on the palate that draws the succulent finish out nicely. Classic Barbera. 92pts
2015 Massolino Barbera d'Alba Gisep
Botte and barrique, 50/50. One third new
A big step up in aromatic complexity from the basic Barbera. This is rich with floral, black cherry, spice, and tobacco aromas. Big but supple in the mouth with just terrific depth of flavor, integrated yet present acids, and very fine tannins all wrapped up in an elegant yet almost luscious package. Long and vibrant with lots of reverb on the finish, this is fully ripe, lovely bright yet complex and elegant, refined, expression of Barbera. 92pts
2015 Brovia Barbera Ciabot del Fi 14.5%
9-12 months in wood, sample from inox
Nose shows a bit of wood influence still, not clean yet, will be racked. With air graphite and balsamic aromas emerge along with a little hazelnut nuttiness on nose. Already has a lovely texture with less power and fruity fat than the regular Barbera.There's more floral character and a tauter nature to the wine, lovely layered clay notes on the palate, leaves the palate clean and fresh with some mineral notes on the finish. This is what super Barbera should be, such snap on the finish, not fair to score out of barrel but seemingly better than the base. Showing incipient balsamic and India ink flavors with fine sweet/tart balance and persistence to the notably fresh fruit flavors. 91-94pts
2015 Cascina delle Rose Barbera Superiore Donna Elena 14.5%
Botte sample
Tight on the nose with scents of blueberries, leather, iron, and quartz. Tight on entry as well with some tannin, nothing noticeable per se but lending this an unusual firmness and supporting deep mineral notes on the palate. Seamless, though not as bright as the base Barbera, this delivers rich, supple, nuanced fruit, that has drive, purity of flavor, and intensity to the slightly jammy black cherry fruit topped with menthol accents. A textbook example of Barbera lacking the overt fruitiness and stickiness of the biggest examples, again the alcohol is noticeable but not bothersome. 91pts
2015 G.D. Vajra Barbera d’Alba
Damn this is intense and fine on the nose, all sweet, dark fruit with an herbal edge, tense, focused. Fine mineral base notes on entry are followed by gorgeous fresh herb and sage laced black cherry fruit. Bright acids, fine cut and length, and super complexity for a "simple" Barbera. This too is really quite young but it’s so juicy and vibrant with super ripe dark, but not overripe fruit. 91pts
2015 Ettore Germano Barbera d'Alba 13%
Lovely and precise aromas of plum skin, freshly tilled earth and elegant floral notes grace the nose. This is also a touch chunky and powerful, very Serralunga in nature and obviously a ripe vintage yet it remains somewhat elegant.. There is lovely balance here with a slinky texture on the palate, this just glides across the palate, remaining elegant with bright red, plummy fruit and bright acids emerging on the finish, which is moderately long. Really lovely purity 90pts
2105 Le Cecche Barbera d’Alba 14.5%
Aged in 500L tonneaux, 20% new
Shows a hint of oak on the nose along with hints of iron framing the subtle plum aromas. Lovely bright and vibrant wine in the mouth, compressed from the bottling three weeks ago but this is elegant with great freshness to the fruit. There’s real persistence to the almost volcanic basaltic minerality here on the long finish. Super balance one again and like the Dolcetto this has no excessive flesh and shows fine cut making is deceptively easy drinking. 90pts
2015 Reva Barbera d’Alba 15%
A blend of Monforte old vines and Ravera in Novello. Worked separately, 15-17 day ferments, malo always in SS, then aged as a blended wine in Slavonian botte.
Intensely fruity and slightly jammy on the nose with an earthy base and hint of sage and a touch of sweet nuttiness on the nose. This is very fruity in the mouth, showing good cut if a bit short, but vibrant and tense with just lovely intensity. Aa hint of cocoa nibs reveals the oak a bit and this has such roundness early in the mouth from the oak before gaining tension on the midpalate and then exploding with fruity purity on the finish. Lacks a bit of nuance perhaps but this is terrifically presented Barbera fruit. 90pts
2015 Paitin di Pasquero-Elia Barbera d'Alba Campolive
Same ferment a few barriques in addition to the botte, mostly second passage
There a little vanilla and candied quality to the very red cherry scented nose. Bright in the mouth, angular, with some real power here. Red fruited with good cut and real mineral drive on the palate, this doesn't have any excess fat. The fruit is red but with a candied character in the mouth that mirrors the nose and this does show a notable influence of oak on the palate supporting that impression of sweetness. A bit spicy and savory on the long finish. I expect the oak to integrate here and in any event it’s not bothersome if noticeable. 90pts
2015 G.B. Burlotto Barbera d'Alba 14.5%
Fine and focused on the nose, if rather restrained with a hint of plum skin along with nuanced smoke and earth aromas. Fresh and light on the palate, if gently rounded in nature. Smallish scaled in a way, or rather compact, it’s lovely wine but not with the cut I'd like in Barbera and which I usually find with this wine. It’s juicy and pure, light on its feet and eminently drinkable with earthy nuance to the rosehip and camphor spice notes along with good sour cherry fruit that lingers on the moderately long finish. Elegant and fine with acids that emerge on the finish. 89pts
2015 Aldo Clerico Barbera d'Alba 14.5%
10-12 days, malo in winter in SS, 50/50 botte and barrique, none really new
Has a little fermentation aroma along with lovely plummy fruit on the nose with great purity and a fine mineral base. Pure and high toned in the mouth with a hint of exoticism to the crushed berry flavors. Big and moderately intense but at the same time this is rather light, diaphanous and elegant with a long, fine finish. Not totally typical perhaps but very good. 89pts
2015 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barbera 14.5%
8-10 days on the skin followed by a year in a blend of barrique and botte.
From vineyards surrounding the winery in Dogliani
Meaty nose, very much so, a little roasty with a touch of wood spice. Such a bright and juicy wine, rich with the flavors of plum skins, cherry skins and lovely hint of wood spice, which is very gentle and really just adding an accent note. A very precise wine playing nicely with the acid without being sharp,and finishing with a long, brisk finish which does show a hint of warm the from the alcohol. 89pts
2015 Sergio Barale Barbera d'Alba Le Preda 15%
From the top of Castellero hill where in good vintages they harvest late, mid October, together with Nebbiolo, one year in tonneaux,
Very fresh on the nose, intense and precise, very snappy with ivy, earth, mint, and leather aromas, lots of fresh leather in fact. Showing a little sweetness on entry, then turning bright vibrant and very open on the palate. This remains taut, transparent, and juicy with black cherry and tart black plummy fruit. Very bright and juicy, a bit aggressive today, with very little tannin but nervous, cutting acids, real Barbea acids. The alcohol is completely integrated. 88pts
2015 Giacosa Fratelli Barbera Bussia 13.5%
15-20 days in inox then 8-10 months in botte of 60hl
Has an initial impact of old wood on the nose then this reveals savory, woodsy and masculine notes of olive, vetiver, wild plum in alcohol. A bit salty, with big fruit that shows some restraint on entry. There is a really intense underlay of very fresh and pure fruit here but it's topped with hints of savory meat, dark earth and lovely blue floral and spice notes, finishing just a touch short. Powerful and distinctive if a bit rustic. 88pts
2015 Scarzello Barbera d'Alba Superiore 15%
50/50 Sarmassa/Paiagallo, 50% in Stockinger botte, half new half old,
Dark and earthy on the nose with a bit of the raw wood embedded in rich black cherry fruit, fairly spicy on the nose. Pretty powerful but less massive than one might guess with lovely fruit in the mouth, good acid but not prominent. The oak here does gain prominence with air on the nose, though this remains very well behaved in the mouth. Texturally this shares a focus with the Langhe Nebbiolo, it's sweet and slightly chewy from the vintage but finishes with good thrust and focus. Holds its alcohol impressively well, you really don't get the alcohol here, though it does lends sweetness and a hint of warmth. Finishes well, with good length, but if this is not served at cellar temp it does come off as just a bit matte and blocky. 88pts
2015 Amelia Barbera d’Alba 15%
5-6 days5-6 days on the skins then only inox
A bit cocoa laced on the nose, though with lovely purity and intensity to the aromas of crushed fruit and polleny flowers. Elegant in the mouth with a real fine blend of fruit, roundness and an innate firmness. Nice mineral cut offers a fine counterpoint to the really pure and detailed fruit flavors. Not shy up front but gentle and precise on the backend. 87pts
2015 Bovio Langhe Nebbiolo Fi Ragnetti 14%
10 days of skin contact
8 months of used barrique and a little botte
Shows off a mineral nose, tense and taut, with hints of black tea, very pretty and high toned with a floral top note. Smooth on entry, there's that creaminess again though to a lesser degree, there’s lovely fruit here, really speaks about Nebbiolo with bright green fruit tones along with hint of herbs, Chamomile and white cherry fruit all laid over fine tannins and leading to a dusty finish. Creamy though with classic austerity. 87pts
2015 Broccardo Barbera d’Alba 14.5%
10 days maceration, 9 months in wood
Has a slender, lean imprint of oak but is in keeping with the intensity and style of the nose, which is fairly earthy. Showing real focus and cut in the mouth in a vibrant, steely, transparent, pure style. Good length, very fresh style, juicy with lovely red cherry fruit and fine length. 87pts
2015 Le Ginestre Barbera d’Alba 14%
13-14 days on the skins then ages for a year in 25hl Slavonian oak botte
Classic traditional barbera nose rich with aromas of soil, mineral, smoke, asphalt, and spicy floral notes. A clean and focused wine which has a hint of muscle but also good vibrancy While fruity in style this delivers fine mineral basenotes in a well proportioned and nicely knit package. The acids are obvious if not intrusive and washed away on the moderately long finishes by a hint of soil driven bitterness. 87pts
2015 Fratelli Manzone Barbera d’Alba 15%
Actually 15.8%
Deep ruby color. Dark on the nose and oily with a nice blend of old wood aromas, spicy fruit and brambly tones that hint at a little baked blackberry, blackberry pie. A touch thick in the mouth powerful, round and intense with lots of green herbal and floral accent notes. Rich yet fresh, and this holds its formidable alcohol very well, the alcohol lending this a sweetness. A bit short on the finish, but chewy, intense, and deep, this is a touch clumsy but people should love this if they are looking for a big wine from Piedmont. 87pts
2015 Monchiero Barbera Superiore 14%
10 day fermentation and aged in 50hl barrels for one year
Tight on the nose, all black cherry and soil driven spice, this has a lovely layer of flesh to it, fleshy yet bright with all that juicy black cherry fruit, and just a glaze of tannins. There’s lovely purity here, again a bit simple perhaps but with a liveliness and pretty fruit, blueberry, with a hint of spicy underbrush gracing the moderately long finish which ends with a gentle mineral wash. Classic and perfumed if just a bit simple. 87pts
2015 Tenuta Montanello Barbera d'Alba 14%
Aged in inox
Rather intensely aromatic with lovely leather, black cherry, balsamic, and dried herb aromas with just a hint of of black pepper. Pleasant in the mouth with good acids, lovely if simple sliced plum and red cherry fruit and a nice elegant nature. While lacking a touch of tension, this is clean and fresh, and the finish is actually very nice, long, with juicy acids and a lovely plummy nature. 87pts
2015 Tenuta Montanello Barbera d'Alba Crochetta 15%
Aged in barrique, 20% new, for ten months,
The nose shows the influence of the wood, it's a bit spicy and sweet with pipe briar and tobacco and vaguely cinnamon notes. Texturally it's more opulent and round in style, there's still plenty of vibrant acidity supporting lovely fruit, though a bit riper with more juicy and dark, black cherry toned fruit with rather fine violet notes in the mouth all topped relatively gently by oak and spice. Wood tannin remains in the mouth, it sticks out for me, but would be barely noticeable for most people. 87pts
2015 Mauro Sebaste Barbera Superiore Cento Bricchi. 15%
One year in 400 liter new wood
Smells like rye bread and Bologna, with strong white pepper and coriander notes. Savory more than fruity, but the oak is fairly well integrated, though this smells exactly of the mortadella. This is a real step up from the Valdivian Barbera, with fine depth and cut, a touch raw perhaps but it has only been in the bottle for two months. With the wood well integrated, plenty of acid here, and the alcohol held in check, just showing up a touch on the finish, this has solid potential. 87pts
2015 Alessandro Veglio Barbera d'Alba 14 5%
Aged only in inox
The graphite quality of Barbera is very pronounced and dominate the nose in a hard, black, minerally way. Much rounder in the mouth than the nose would suggest, though this remains a tense, mineral graphite laced wine in the mouth with cherry fruit that is a bit tight and still a bit short on the finish. Well balanced, acid could be a touch higher but it's enough, in a fruity style but the fruit is made out of graphite. In a way a better wine than the dolcetto, but not as drinkable. 87pts
2015 Viberti Barbera d’Alba La Gemella 14%
Lovely nose, gently fruity with wild cherry and gentle spicy vegetal notes. Bright and juicy in the mouth with lovely freshness and purity to the fruit, and fine ripe tannins lending this both a playful quality and length. Just textbook Barbera with this black cherry note on the finish, juicy good length, workmanlike but so delicious and well balanced and vibrant. Cleans the palate so well, great everyday Barbera. 87pts
2015 Voerzio - Martini Barbera d’Alba Ciabot della Luna 13.5%
8-10 months in barrique, 60% new all French
Savory on the nose with rich aromas of beef jerky and spicy citron, almost grapefruit pithy. This is a remarkably fruity style of wine with intense black fruit and spice flavors presented in a very cylindrical form. There’s layers of richly supple fruit and soft acids supporting flavors that are not distinct but are deeeeep. This is an extract of blue fruit, too much fruit for my palate but this is fresh and interesting with incredible length and a ready market. A parker wine. 87pts
2015 Elena Giuseppe Barbera d'Alba 14%
One year in SS
A bit redox which lends this that meaty note that it shares with the dolcetto. Bright acids prickle early on the tongue,followed by lacy fruit that is delicately rendered but with lovely appeal. Transparent and fresh plum skin flavors show a hint of cocoa and wild raspberry notes on the juicy finish with minerality that emerges the backend A fruity style but real Barbera acidity. 86pts
2015 Mario Marengo Barbera Vigna Pugnane 14.5%
5-6 days, malo in barrique, 8 months in wood, 15-20% new
Fairly smoky oak laced nose with spiced floral notes and black fruit layers under the carbon toasted notes. There is a lovely texture to this, fresh, with fine tannins, juicy and a bit dark, just a touch opaque though the acidity is terrific here and lends the dark fruit freshness, energy, and good drive to the quite ripe fruit on the finish with decent length. Rather light bodied, it's certainly attractive though the aromas are a bit much as this has a bit of an exotic edge to the aromas, verging on exotic it's like raspberry and kumquat. 86pts
2015 Diego Morra Barbera d'Alba 14.5%
Reticent on the nose, a bit if ivy, black pepper, and earthy spice does emerge with air. Nice cut in the mouth for a wine that carries a lot of fruit, though again slightly pasty with enough acidity to lend it lift and support the nicely formed plummy fruit. There's some nice inner mouth perfume here that emerges with time, balsamic and spicy, and good length. A bit of a muscular wine,chewy even for Barbera, yet remains fairly tense in the mouth, it's a nice wine again with some minerality gracing the moderately long finish. A style that new world palate can enjoy, 86pts
2015 Ciabot Berton Barbera d’Alba 13.5%
Aged in inox
Not a lot going on here except for an odd aroma of fresh fig on the nose. Not very varietal and oddly soft considering the modest alcohol. It is pleasant and pure, perhaps shows more classical feel than varietal character,though the acid is ok but not pronounced. It does have lots of intensity of flavor and is easy to drink. 85pts
2015 Cordero di Montezemolo Barbera d’Alba
Blend of all the little plots, 6-7 in a mix of woods
Black fruited on the nose, sweet black plum, which is gently wrapped in a fine nuanced sheen of oak Clean and linear on entry then gaining some fat in the mouth and through the midpalate with a hint of wood spice lending a touch of complexity, finishes a little on the sweeter side from the wood. A touch short, a touch four square but inarguably well made 85pts
2015 Le Strette Barbera d'Alba Persole 14.5%
Old vines 65-75 years old, with 25% planted twenty years ago
12 days on the skins followed by a year in only barrique 2nd and third passage
This is very yeasty on the nose right out of the bottle, and raw on the with a mineral accent note. This has a lovely ripeness, lots of fruit that is impressively fresh with good acids that are present though not particularly accentuated. Clean and bright with good cut and nice varietal flavors. A nicely pure example, easy to enjoy. 85pts
2015 Cascina Alberta Barbera d'Alba
Only SS, a selection was removed for the superiore tasted previously, six months in SS, using the less ripe grapes
Fruity on the nose with aromas of plums, tar, mint and wild flowers, this actually smells fairly sweet. Smooth, fairly rich but not heavy in the mouth with an intensity that recalls the superiore a bit. Fairly seamless with good juicy acidity, lots of black cherry and cut plummy fruit on the palate with a gentle wash of aromatic spice over the backend which turns peachy on the short finish. A touch clumsy, but the acidity keeps this from being excessively sticky, pretty short. 84pts
2015 Claudio Fenocchio Barbera d’Alba 14.5%
From vineyards in Bussia Ten h in Bussia, six for Barolo, one is Dolcetto, half is Freisa, half is Barbera
This vintage did a pass in the most recent 50hl botti, a cleaning pass,
There is some wood here on the nose, which is decidedly high toned, but there's an underlying sweetness here from the wood obscuring a lot of aromatic detail at this stage. Soft and supple from the vintage, though rich with dark cherry fruit. Clean and fresh and well made.with lovely if simple fruit on the palate, where there is less of a wood impact but aromatically this is challenging. 84pts
2015 Mauro Sebaste Barbera d'Asti Valdevani 15%
Exoticically spiced and fruity on the nose which shows meaty nuance and spicy with fennel seed note. A nice raw style of Barbera, with good cut and modest flesh in the mouth. Rather clean and fresh on the finish which shows good tart fruit and a lingering little bitterness. 84pts
2015 Bovio Barbera d’Alba Superiore Regia Veja 14.5%
Perhaps not totally typical with an earthy note to the nose along with slightly medicinal and floral extract notes. Enters the mouth a bit meaty, with a softness to it, almost a creaminess, the oak is not really noticeable as the palate is all crushed wild cherry fruit. Easy light finish which is driven by the acidity, obvious but not prominent. 83pts
2016 Barbera
2016 Massolino Barbera d'Alba 14.5%
Only aged in concrete
Lovely on the nose, all earthy and spicy, and quite floral. Leaning towards a focused,decidedly narrow waisted, and elegant expression of Barbera, this offers good ripeness with good transparency to the fresh is simple and pure black fruits that show fine persistence through the palate and on the modest finish. 86pts
With that in mind let me get this out of the way. 2015 is the greatest Barbera vintage I have ever tried. To a certain extent that has been aided by the experience producer have accumulated over the year as well as Barbera finding its way in the marketplace, due in no small part to the price point many of these wines occupy having been vacated by Barolo and even many Nebbiolo.
While Dolcetto is finding it’s groove as the great table wine, Barbera is finding it’s way as a sort of smaller scaled moderately special occasion wine. Not that the wines themselves seem to be special occasion wines, it is in fact their ability to pair so well with special occassion food that is moving them into the role. Yes they are still great with burgers, but today's Barbera from a great vintage like 2015 is going to age very well and become the perfect, bright, velvety, nuanced partner for a roast leg of lamb, prime rib, or osso buco! The general high alcohols also have moved Barbera from my weekday table to the weekends, further reinforcing its role.
In the marketplace today one will also find some previous vintages of Barbera. Of note are the lovely, open, and rather transparent 2013s and the taut, etched 2014s that are often not the most complete wines, but at their best they are delicious, if veering off slightly into Dolcetto like light table wine territory. I can appreciate all of these vintage but when push comes to shove I will almost always prefer one of the great 2015s. They are benchmark wines and remain very affordable.
I will tell you that I think Barbera is underappreciated; there are great wines on this list that will drink terrifically for a decade at prices that everyone can afford.
2009 Barbera
2009 La Spinona Barbera d'Alba Superiore
8-9 months in 25 hl botte
Shows its age on the nose with lots of caramel, bouillon, and burnt sugar notes accenting the core of burnt marshmallow laced, dark, plummy fruit. A big chewy wine that's showing at peak with spiky acids embedded in rich fruit, not the freshest nor purest but this is medium-large scaled and polished. Finishing a bit on the shorter side though the acidity lends river stone minerality to the finish which shows some dark evolved fruit notes on the finale. 87pts
2009 Flavio Roddolo Barbera d'Alba 14%
Fairly leathery and subtly but firmly bretty on the nose. This is a little too shitty for me to get much more, there is underlying fruit and flowers but only hints. Lovely on entry if a bit compressed in the mouth. There’s nice interplay between the bit of fruit sweetness and good refreshing acids on the palate. Nice length with red plum fruit emerging on the long finish along with hints of eucalyptus and violet pastille. Pleasant but the nose is not generous, except with stinkiness, and the palate remains a bit compressed. 80pts
2012 Barbera
2012 Elena Giuseppe Barbera d'Alba Superiore Alferi 14.5%
2 weeks on the skins, 2013 and before this saw only barrique, after half in botte, 20hl and up
The 2012 saw 24 months in barrique, 30% new the rest second passage
Very nicely framed aromas, more floral and blue fruited, though picking up some noticeable sweetness from the oak, not intrusive but almost. In the mouth the wood is mostly resolved, with fine brightness, and detail to the plum skins fruit. This a sinewy muscular style with hints of wood and a mineral wash on the long finish which still retains lots of fruit with appropriate evolution. A nice product to have in the market at this stage of evolution. 88pts
2011 Barbera
2011 Lorenzo Accomasso Barbera Pochi Filagn 15.5%
A bit evolved on the nose, dark, earthy, spicy, rich with plummy fruit. Clean and precise in the mouth with flavors of dark, rich cocoa dusted plummy fruit. Long intense and powerful perfectly suited for bread and Salumi as Lorenzo suggests. For a huge wine this is rather vibrant with pure plum and slightly prune juice that has a little chocolate covered cherries, liquoroso quality to it. The alcohol is present but, rather remarkably, it is really is not intrusive. 90pts
2013 Barbera
2013 Giuseppe Mascarello Barbera Scudetto 14.5%
Has the earthy base that Barbera gets with age though it remains complex, with carob and date accents to the core of dark fruit. On the palate this is quite fresh. Elegant and almost silky with a cool compressed feel to it, lovely tannins with acidity that is very fresh and lively in the mouth, this really is in a sweet spot, offering fine length, beautiful, detailed, nuanced style, none of the fat and sweet black fruit that young Barbera has, though it does show a hint of alcohol. 92pts
2013 Aldo Conterno Barbera TrePile 14%
Sees 14 months in oak, after couple of months in SS, for foe decant, 18 months in bottle, malo started April 14 finished in June
Shows some wood sweetness and spiciness on the nose, along with dark jellied black cherry and blackberry fruit. Typically high acid on the palate though one can see the balancing act this performs with plenty of clean and fresh, sliced plum fruit wrapped around the vibrant acids, with a gentle sweetness from the wood accenting the midplane before this turns rathe mineral over the long finish with hints of blood orange. There's a nice density here married with fine freshness, has a similar style in a certain way with the house Chardonnay, a bit middle of the road. There's a blackberry mineral thing going on here that just a little exotic through the finish. 90pts
2013 Fracassi Ratti Mentone Barbera
Deeply aromatic with mocha tinged black plum and black cherry fruit on the nose. In the mouth this is big yet supple, lavish in fact though with great balance, a fair bit of flesh superbly balanced by cutting acids, and a fantastic cleansing finish with huge inner mouth perfumes of fresh fruit, moist earth, and a hint of prune. Entirely joyful and so drinkable. 90pts
2013 Poderi Oddero Barbera d'Alba Superiore 13.5%
More on the floral side of the aromatic spectrum with red fruit and stone supporting on the nose. Light and fresh in the mouth with lovely cut and minerality and just a suggestion of sweet wood spice. This is bracing on the palate but with enough flesh to keep it round and balanced through the long, sleek, and steely mineral finish. 90pts
2013 Rizieri Barbera d’Alba Superiore 14%
Fourth passage wood
There's more obvious fruit here with an underlying sweetness, plummy with orchard fruits note, while still shows that slightly stemmy underbrush note. In the mouth this is silky, lacks some of the angularity of the 14 but delivers rather intense if pure red plum and red cherry fruit, with almost no perceptible tannins. Kind of lush and silky without being heavy, decidedly fruit driven with a hint of minerality on the midpalate, and a touch of nutty oak on the backend which gains terrific sour cherry fruit with good length. A smaller styled Barbera, but very Barbera: juicy, lovely bright finish, very long. 90pts
2013 Ettore Germano Barbera d'Alba Superiore Vigna della Madre 14%
Aged in used barrique and tonneaux of 700l
Pencil shavings and dark fruit are very well married on the nose and yes, while it's obviously somewhat oaky the wood is not not covering the fruit, framing it instead. Soft, powerful, and fruit driven in the mouth, there’s a lovely texture here, again a fairly elegant rendition though this is more complex and powerful than the Barbera d’Alba with fine depth on the palate, good length, and a sense of purity and vibrancy on the finish, Acid is present but not intrusive, and the nose grows with air turning more rose petal scented and floral with a touch of wood tannin lending grab to the finish. All in all a lovey wine, and in many way better than the Barbera d’Alba, but not as fun and easy to drink. It is more serious. 90pts
2013 Viberti Barbera d’Alba Superiore Bricco Airoli 13%
Three parcels co fermented 30-54 year old, one parcel lies within Bricco delle Viole
Dark on the nose with leathery top notes, spicy with hints of older wood and Salumi. Big rich yet not heavy mouthfeel, good length, complex and elegant with lovely clarity to the tart red fruit on the palate, showing hints of cranberry laced through dark cherry and wild strawberry fruit that drifts off through the fairly long finish. Very well done with acids that are present but integrated into the fruit. 89pts
2013 RIzzi Barbera d’Alba
Clean and precise on the nose with gorgeous wild blackberry and cherry. fruit. Showing real clarity on the palate, with good cut, though not an overly acidic style. Flavors are a bit animal on the palate with a base of precise red fruits and a juicy, moderately long finish. 87pts
2013 Brezza Barbera d’Alba Superiore 13.5%
Has some age on it and shows it on the nose, which is a bit earthy, leathery, and spicy in an old school Barbera way. Light and juicy in the mouth, showing some jammy tones to the wild berry fruit, with acids that are very well integrated. A bit short perhaps, though certainly transparent in a very drinkable, easy going style with a nice hint of complexity helping to add detail and decent length. 86pts
2013 Giacomo Vico Barbera d'Alba Superiore
8-9 days spontaneous fermentation
Aged in 300 liter barrels of French oak, half new
Shows mocha and white chocolate on eh nose from the wood, a bit of red meat, very raw beef and those little perfumed edible flowers, a touch soapy and floral. Soft and almost gentle on entry, this oddly seems more built on tannins than acids. Elegant and clear, glassy even in the mouth you can feel the sand in the soil. Very nice even if it lacks a touch of brightness and fruit. 85pts
2014 Barbera
2014 Palladino Barbera d'Alba Superiore Bricco dell Olive 13%
15 months in 500 liter tonneaux, 50% new
Intense and savory on the nose medicinal with an herbal top note. The oak is not quite dominant but it's really covering the more subtle aromatics, for 14 there's a lot of plum here on the nose. In the mouth this is quite good, vibrant, transparent, with a subtle caressing fleshiness on the palate. Iit's a touch simple but deliciously fruity in a fresh plummy way. Oak influence is really mostly aromatic as there is little wood tannin here, lovely fine elegant texture, refined Barbera good acidity, not cutting but very juicy. 89pts
2014 Boasso Barbera d’Alba superiore 14%
Nose shows some wood accents, a bit spicy and cigar boxy, lending sweetness as well. In the mouth this is medium bodied with fresh, acidity that is in harmony in an elegant, steely style with sliced red plum fruit. A gentle sweetness from wood emerges on the backend and through the long, cutting, finish. The flavors here are jammy, though the texture is much more energetic with a hint of tannin lending this firmness. Pretty lovely and transparent Barbera with strong flavors. 88pts
2014 Elio Grasso Barbera Vigna Martina 13.5%
Aged 15 months in barrique, half new half second passage
Very lithe and lean in the mouth, a pretty wine, focused, cool even a little compressed and a bit front loaded here, though there is length. The nose is reticent revealing a bit of camphor on the nose and some gentle berry fruit. In the mouth this is transparent with a classic flavor profile, fine minerality, offering really good cut on the finish. This resembles the Dolcetto this year quite a bit. The higher than usual acidity might have played a strong mitigating factor with the oak here, which shows up as just a touch of milk chocolate on the finish but otherwise I just find the rounded softness coming from the oak. Turns a little spicy and peppery particularly on the finale, almost bracing. 88pts
2014 Rizieri Barbera d’Alba Superiore 14%
12 days fermentation then aged in 25-30hl botte, one tonneaux per big barrel, for 13 months
A little smoky on the nose, has a gentle impact of wood still obvious with lots of frutti del Bosco notes on the nose and a hint of underbrush. A step up in concentration of fruitiness, more tannins but more rounded tannins, and acid is bright and really drives the finish which is lingering. This retains good transparency in the mouth, if being a bit broad shoulder and slender waisted, and gains some weight on the finish Shows wonderful fruit character, with just a suggestion of chewiness here, really well done wine though it lacks a bit of varietal character. 88pts
2014 G.D. Vajra Barbera d’Alba Superiore 14%
30-35 days on the skins followed by a year in Slavonian botte
Leathery, spicy, and complex on the nose with a hint of nuttiness and notes of small wild cherry fruit. Lean in the mouth but this has a soft cover of fruity flesh in the mouth. A bright, immediate, focused and balanced wine with good length. It’s not grand, but this is long, elegant and refined, with a nice subtle aromatic nature to the finish. 88pts
2014 Cascina delle Rose Barbera Superiore Donna Elena 13.5%
Instead of the usual twenty months this spent 17 months due to the vintage
Earthy, savory and aromatic on the nose, this is filled with forest floor and leathery notes. Supple but focused in the mouth, there's lovely harmony to this in the mouth with some supple tannins adding some fleshiness to the core of otherwise lean and bright oatmeal laced red plummy fruit with little flashes of tart red cherry. A bit spicy in the mouth, with air freshening the nose, this is eminently drinkable, not the best ever but solid for the vintage I do wish it were longer because if there is a shortcoming it’s the quick finish. 87pts
2014 Alberto Burzi Barbera
Aged in inox
A bit smokey on the nose, with pure and vibrant aromas of dark earth, plum, and Iris. In the mouth this is tense mineral driven, and lean from the vintage, with transparent and pure black plum skin flavors presented in a rather elegant package. A bright wine but not nervous and finishing with wet river stone character, this is moderately complex and well balanced. A rather detailed wine from the vintage. 87pts
2014 Marcarini Barbera d'Alba Ciabot Camerano
Nine months in inox and nine in the newer botte, 13%
Lovely aromatics, deep and earthy, a little leathery, a little smoky, a little floral but not particular distinctive, just lending the depth and complexity that keeps this particularly interesting to smell. Subtle and nuanced. This is lovely in the mouth, just a thin sheen of fruit again, baby fat paired with elegant, and so well balanced. Juicy and pure if turning a touch rich up front, a little chocolatey on the midpalate, then returning to finely textured and transparent on the moderately long, steely and acidically tense finish. Uncomplicated, but really well balanced and super drinkable. 87pts
2014 Livio Pavese Barbera del Monferrato 13.5%
10 days on the skins followed by about a year in 40hl-80hl botte, which are refreshed annually.
Shows heat and a touch of wood on the nose, actually a strong aroma of pencil shavings. This is perhaps trying a little too hard. In the mouth the oak is well integrated, leaving one with a very mineral in style of Barbera rich with cherry fruit and big acids providing excellent cut on the palate. This is a lovely wine with good length, it needs a six months for the wood to integrate and is a touch simple but still very attractive. 87pts
2014 Paitin di Pasquero-Elia Barbera d'Alba Serra 13.5%
Roto fermenter is used for Dolcetto and Barbera, 8-9 days
Started in 97 with the Rotos,, in 2010 began working with Dante Scaglione, lasted until 2016
15 months in botte grande 30 Hl all Slavonian
Raw on the nose, undeveloped but fresh. A bit fleshy and supple in the mouth yet attractively so. Very fruity without being soupy, maybe in a vintage like this the rotofermentors work well, extracting maximum fruit yet not adding weight. This has a light evergreen top note, clean and fresh on the moderately long finish. Really red fruited, a bit simple but very fresh, clean, and long. 86pts
2014 Cascina Alberta Barbera d'Alba Tres
Six months in botte
Earthy and lean on the nose with a decidedly savory aromatic profile featuring some beef broth notes and a little dried porcini layered over dark, slightly dried, tea tinged fruit. Lean on the palate and fresher and more delicate and elegant than the 2015. Transparent a bit subdued in the mouth after the exuberance of the 2015 but with nuance and detail; also somewhat short but definitely easier on the palate and a more pleasurably drink. 85pts
2014 Palladino Barbera d'Alba Superiore 13%
A little more than one year in botte grande
Spicy and mineral on the nose, a bit smoky and not very fruit driven. Nice and very fresh in style; really wonderful interpretation of the vintage, crisp and bright and very mineral on the modest finish which shows a little spicy note. There’s a pleasant wash of fruit in the mouth but this is decidedly not a fruity wine. 85pts
2014 Le Ginestre Barbera d’Alba 14%
Very savory on the nose, complex with spicy notes and tons of gun powdered. Mineral and lean in the mouth with some roundness, lots of minerality, and a hint of dried rose petals. Not great, but fresh and interesting though it needs more fruit. 84pts
2014 Cascina Ballarin Barbera d’Alba Pilade
6 months in wood, 700-1000-1500 HL
7-8 days of fermentation followed by another week on the skins
Sweetly floral, simple, gentle and attractive on the nose. In the mouth this is very light and delicate, there's pleasant if diaphanous fruit here, a bit of dark cherry and red plummy fruit, which is nicely rendered in a balanced and juicy, if notably simple style. Very drinkable, this would be lovely with a slight chill to it. 83pts
2014 Francesco Clerico Barbera d'Alba Vigna Mondoca 13%
Light bodied and nicely fruity in a plummy red register. All acid with almost no tannin. A bit lean, pleasant and integrated but lacking a little substance and showing a hint of evolution already. Pleasant tart and simple 83pts
2014 Giacosa Fratelli Maria Giovanna Barbera d'Alba 14%
First made it in 1985 with barrique, one year in barrique 40% new
Smells of oak, not spicy but oaky in a more cigar box and cedar sort of way along with hints of tar. Fine and elegant in the mouth, this lacks the core of intensity to really stand up to this oak treatment but this is pleasant and well balanced with red plum and slightly candied red cherry fruit, short though and on never loses sight of the oak here. 83pts
2014 Giovanni Rosso Barbera d’Alba Donna Margherita.
Aged only in inox
Hibiscus and orange frame the jellied, candied cherry fruit nose.Moderately rich on the palate with lovely playful texture early on the palate that becomes sticky and spackley on the backend. Fruity, simple but pleasant and quite fresh, with good acidity that somehow can’t keep this from being tacky on the palate and hard to drink. 82pts
2015 Barbera
2015 Elvio Cogno Barbera d'Alba Bricco dei Merli 14.5%
One year in botte, 15-25 Hl
This is incredibly fragrant, I can smell this from quite a distance with its cocoa dusted and slightly creamy blend of dark berry and black cherry fruit. Gauzy and fine, showing a certain restraint, this is a fabulous showing. So fine, deep and rich in the mouth and yet remaining elegant, man this is fresh on the palate, a touch salty, layered and ultra refined with acids that are real Barbera but so well integrated. A top Barbera, the finish is stunningly pure, a strong showing, texturally perfect, hard to imagine a better Barbera. 95pts
2015 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d’Alba Francia 15%
from botte
So much more masculine and intense than the Barbera Cerretta with an herbal base to the complex, mineral and savory aromas that show a little cured meats, more intense floral aromas and a little India ink.Richer and denser on entry, yet not as expansive in the mouth as the Barbera Cerretta at this point. There’s a rich palate of dark fruit, a little opaque still, though juicy and with good length. Both more embryonic and in more of a chiseled style with phenomenal depth on the plate while retaining a quartzy, icy minerality that grounds this on the palate. 94pts
2015 Chiara Boschis Barbera d'Alba Superiore 14.5%
From 2010 reintroduced in 2000 l barrels
This is a study in the graphite and ivy aromatics of Barbera that gain a hint of underlying sweetness to the nose along with a whiff of oak. Again a touch rich, this has a fine wrap of fruit over a linear and tense structure, offering an extract of Barbera on the palate and showing super length. Vibrant, rich, yet transparent and remarkably supple with tons of sweet black fruit all underpinned by important acids. There's real Barbera cut here, there's also a nice mineral accent that adds salinity to the very long fruit driven finish. A great Barbera Superiore. 93pts
2015 G.B. Burlotto Barbera d’Alba Aves 15%
There a suggestion of wood here on the nose, chocolate and mocha toned but very well integrated into the core of sliced plum fruit, pressed flowers, pollen and a suggestion of wild fennel. Richer for sure, and fuller in the mouth than the base Barbera, but this doesn't fall into the trap of being weightier. There's an elegance here, with such purity to the fruit, a gorgeous wine, though not shy with the alcohol, even if it is really well restrained. Vibrant and juicy with assertive, fresh black plummy and black cherry fruit, laced with gently peppery and minty spicy, that lingers on the long intense finish. Powerful yet elegant Barbera with an incredible richness to the fruit. 93pts
2015 Luigi Oddero Barbera d’Alba 15%
Tank sample
Part in wood part in concrete. Saw 2-3 monthsin new 85hl French oak barrels, 6.4gramz acid
Tight on the nose with subtle notes of, leather, dry blackberry fruit and a hint of nuttiness and tea. Rich, seamless wine, powerful and juicy with a vague plummy jam undercurrent. Taut and driven by good acidity the acid is so well integrated just popping on the refreshing finish. This demands a. nice steak as it has a bloody nuance to the wild berry fruit on the palate which develops some aromatic herb stem complexity. There's a lot of extract here, and this is remarkably long. 93pts
2015 Ferdinando Principiano Barbera d'Alba Laura 13%
Serralunga and in Sant'Anna, two weeks on skins, 2016 is the last vintage for the Serralunga fruit which has been repainted to Nebbiolo , only inox, started harvest 28 August, finished 28 of september, 20 days early, after the first rain
Tight on the nose with subtle aromas of graphite, ivy, and dark plummy fruit. Supple in the mouth with just the thinnest blanket of fruit wrapped around fine grained tannins and juicy, vibrant acidity. This is long with real persistence to the pure fruit, with such detail and precision to the fruit. Not the most complex example of Barbera but it is near perfect for what I look for in Barbera: fresh yet dark on the palate, long and refreshing on the finish. Textbook Barbera. 93pts
2015 Brovia Barbera d'Alba Sori del Drago 14%
Only SS
Compressed on the nose, very ivy toned with a little artichoke followed by dusty graphite note and a top layer of India ink and a hint of blue plum fruit. Vibrant and lovely in the mouth medium bodied but zesty with a lovely texture. There's a little fat here but so much acid that it's barely noticeable, just a little grape skin tannin adding flesh in the mouth as well, then this turns liquory on the long finish with tons of plummy fruit. This would be a bit chewy with slightly less acid, the sparse yet supple tannins pepper the very persistent finish. Very fine Barbera just a bit large in scale. 92pts
2015 Cascina delle Rose Barbera d'Alba 14%
16 months in botte grande
So pretty on the nose with red plum and sour cherry aromas supported by subtle green leaf, chalk, and astringent accent notes. In the mouth this has the most subtle layer of flesh, fine and gauzy with rich red fruit flavors, red cherry and something spicier almost lingonberry or boysenberry laced. Fine acid lift on the palate and a faint whisper of tannins lend this form in the mouth with a touch of blue fruit and green herbal nuance leading to a long, juicy, slightly jammy red fruited finish. Seamless, pure and vibrant, a beautifully tender Barbera though the alcohol does show through, there is a seductive length there. 92pts
2015 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d’Alba Cerretta
from botte around 15%
A bit spicy on the nose with masses of dark fruit, a bit balsamic, lots of fresh plummy fruit with a very nice mineral and vaguely forest floor tones. Not massive, in fact rather elegant in the mouth with juicy, rich plummy fruit, in a fairly tannic style with a certain meatiness on the palate. Alcohol is slightly noticeable on the backend. Nuanced and really quite fine, elegant in spite of its mass, though it's not notable rich or viscous in the mouth, with a lightly mineral and light cocoa tone on the finish. Purity and power. 92pts
2015 Ghisolfi Barbera d’Alba 14.5%
6-7 days all sponti one part in Botte another in barrique and tonneaux, very little new
Very assertive nose, all black spice, soil, and black plum and black cherry fruit. In the mouth this starts off a touch tight but is very fine grained and linear, pure is an understatement with a nearly velvety yet weightless mouthfeel It delivers palate saturating flavor but with a lightness and a clean, edgy almost steely finish. Really very fine Barbera that shows compelling inner mouth perfumes. No sense of alcohol either. 92pts
2015 Francesco Rinaldi Barbera d'Alba 14.5%
One year in botte bottled in Nov
15 day fermentation followed by one year in 50 HL botte
Still very youthful on the nose, the year in bottle seems required, rather fragrant for Barbera with a candied fruitiness accented by floral, rose and Iris, India ink, and leather aromas. Almost a bit thick, certainly powerful, smooth and polished in the mouth with great depth on the palate, lovely vinosity and richness to the dark fruit, with a graphite note on the back end, Jammy black cherry fruit dominates the palate and while not a super high acid example this is rather seamless, elegant and a nearly perfect representation in this style. The finish shows the power of the bitter cherry and plum skin fruit but also offers nice lift and refreshing if not brisk acidity. There may be more important examples of Barbera out there, but this blends approachability and richness of fruit rather effortlessly and is absolutely delicious. 92pts
2015 Elio Sandri Barbera Superiore 14.5%
very few weeks in bottle
Tight on the nose but fine with icy, purple plums, smoke and cherry aromas with hints of sandalwood and old wood. Very fresh in the mouth, a certain richness here but with cut, and real depth on the palate, there's purity to the fruit, it's a tight core of remarkably pure, black plum skin fruit. With real tension in the mouth, not just acid driven but this has a rare tannin presence on the palate that draws the succulent finish out nicely. Classic Barbera. 92pts
2015 Massolino Barbera d'Alba Gisep
Botte and barrique, 50/50. One third new
A big step up in aromatic complexity from the basic Barbera. This is rich with floral, black cherry, spice, and tobacco aromas. Big but supple in the mouth with just terrific depth of flavor, integrated yet present acids, and very fine tannins all wrapped up in an elegant yet almost luscious package. Long and vibrant with lots of reverb on the finish, this is fully ripe, lovely bright yet complex and elegant, refined, expression of Barbera. 92pts
2015 Brovia Barbera Ciabot del Fi 14.5%
9-12 months in wood, sample from inox
Nose shows a bit of wood influence still, not clean yet, will be racked. With air graphite and balsamic aromas emerge along with a little hazelnut nuttiness on nose. Already has a lovely texture with less power and fruity fat than the regular Barbera.There's more floral character and a tauter nature to the wine, lovely layered clay notes on the palate, leaves the palate clean and fresh with some mineral notes on the finish. This is what super Barbera should be, such snap on the finish, not fair to score out of barrel but seemingly better than the base. Showing incipient balsamic and India ink flavors with fine sweet/tart balance and persistence to the notably fresh fruit flavors. 91-94pts
2015 Cascina delle Rose Barbera Superiore Donna Elena 14.5%
Botte sample
Tight on the nose with scents of blueberries, leather, iron, and quartz. Tight on entry as well with some tannin, nothing noticeable per se but lending this an unusual firmness and supporting deep mineral notes on the palate. Seamless, though not as bright as the base Barbera, this delivers rich, supple, nuanced fruit, that has drive, purity of flavor, and intensity to the slightly jammy black cherry fruit topped with menthol accents. A textbook example of Barbera lacking the overt fruitiness and stickiness of the biggest examples, again the alcohol is noticeable but not bothersome. 91pts
2015 G.D. Vajra Barbera d’Alba
Damn this is intense and fine on the nose, all sweet, dark fruit with an herbal edge, tense, focused. Fine mineral base notes on entry are followed by gorgeous fresh herb and sage laced black cherry fruit. Bright acids, fine cut and length, and super complexity for a "simple" Barbera. This too is really quite young but it’s so juicy and vibrant with super ripe dark, but not overripe fruit. 91pts
2015 Ettore Germano Barbera d'Alba 13%
Lovely and precise aromas of plum skin, freshly tilled earth and elegant floral notes grace the nose. This is also a touch chunky and powerful, very Serralunga in nature and obviously a ripe vintage yet it remains somewhat elegant.. There is lovely balance here with a slinky texture on the palate, this just glides across the palate, remaining elegant with bright red, plummy fruit and bright acids emerging on the finish, which is moderately long. Really lovely purity 90pts
2105 Le Cecche Barbera d’Alba 14.5%
Aged in 500L tonneaux, 20% new
Shows a hint of oak on the nose along with hints of iron framing the subtle plum aromas. Lovely bright and vibrant wine in the mouth, compressed from the bottling three weeks ago but this is elegant with great freshness to the fruit. There’s real persistence to the almost volcanic basaltic minerality here on the long finish. Super balance one again and like the Dolcetto this has no excessive flesh and shows fine cut making is deceptively easy drinking. 90pts
2015 Reva Barbera d’Alba 15%
A blend of Monforte old vines and Ravera in Novello. Worked separately, 15-17 day ferments, malo always in SS, then aged as a blended wine in Slavonian botte.
Intensely fruity and slightly jammy on the nose with an earthy base and hint of sage and a touch of sweet nuttiness on the nose. This is very fruity in the mouth, showing good cut if a bit short, but vibrant and tense with just lovely intensity. Aa hint of cocoa nibs reveals the oak a bit and this has such roundness early in the mouth from the oak before gaining tension on the midpalate and then exploding with fruity purity on the finish. Lacks a bit of nuance perhaps but this is terrifically presented Barbera fruit. 90pts
2015 Paitin di Pasquero-Elia Barbera d'Alba Campolive
Same ferment a few barriques in addition to the botte, mostly second passage
There a little vanilla and candied quality to the very red cherry scented nose. Bright in the mouth, angular, with some real power here. Red fruited with good cut and real mineral drive on the palate, this doesn't have any excess fat. The fruit is red but with a candied character in the mouth that mirrors the nose and this does show a notable influence of oak on the palate supporting that impression of sweetness. A bit spicy and savory on the long finish. I expect the oak to integrate here and in any event it’s not bothersome if noticeable. 90pts
2015 G.B. Burlotto Barbera d'Alba 14.5%
Fine and focused on the nose, if rather restrained with a hint of plum skin along with nuanced smoke and earth aromas. Fresh and light on the palate, if gently rounded in nature. Smallish scaled in a way, or rather compact, it’s lovely wine but not with the cut I'd like in Barbera and which I usually find with this wine. It’s juicy and pure, light on its feet and eminently drinkable with earthy nuance to the rosehip and camphor spice notes along with good sour cherry fruit that lingers on the moderately long finish. Elegant and fine with acids that emerge on the finish. 89pts
2015 Aldo Clerico Barbera d'Alba 14.5%
10-12 days, malo in winter in SS, 50/50 botte and barrique, none really new
Has a little fermentation aroma along with lovely plummy fruit on the nose with great purity and a fine mineral base. Pure and high toned in the mouth with a hint of exoticism to the crushed berry flavors. Big and moderately intense but at the same time this is rather light, diaphanous and elegant with a long, fine finish. Not totally typical perhaps but very good. 89pts
2015 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barbera 14.5%
8-10 days on the skin followed by a year in a blend of barrique and botte.
From vineyards surrounding the winery in Dogliani
Meaty nose, very much so, a little roasty with a touch of wood spice. Such a bright and juicy wine, rich with the flavors of plum skins, cherry skins and lovely hint of wood spice, which is very gentle and really just adding an accent note. A very precise wine playing nicely with the acid without being sharp,and finishing with a long, brisk finish which does show a hint of warm the from the alcohol. 89pts
2015 Sergio Barale Barbera d'Alba Le Preda 15%
From the top of Castellero hill where in good vintages they harvest late, mid October, together with Nebbiolo, one year in tonneaux,
Very fresh on the nose, intense and precise, very snappy with ivy, earth, mint, and leather aromas, lots of fresh leather in fact. Showing a little sweetness on entry, then turning bright vibrant and very open on the palate. This remains taut, transparent, and juicy with black cherry and tart black plummy fruit. Very bright and juicy, a bit aggressive today, with very little tannin but nervous, cutting acids, real Barbea acids. The alcohol is completely integrated. 88pts
2015 Giacosa Fratelli Barbera Bussia 13.5%
15-20 days in inox then 8-10 months in botte of 60hl
Has an initial impact of old wood on the nose then this reveals savory, woodsy and masculine notes of olive, vetiver, wild plum in alcohol. A bit salty, with big fruit that shows some restraint on entry. There is a really intense underlay of very fresh and pure fruit here but it's topped with hints of savory meat, dark earth and lovely blue floral and spice notes, finishing just a touch short. Powerful and distinctive if a bit rustic. 88pts
2015 Scarzello Barbera d'Alba Superiore 15%
50/50 Sarmassa/Paiagallo, 50% in Stockinger botte, half new half old,
Dark and earthy on the nose with a bit of the raw wood embedded in rich black cherry fruit, fairly spicy on the nose. Pretty powerful but less massive than one might guess with lovely fruit in the mouth, good acid but not prominent. The oak here does gain prominence with air on the nose, though this remains very well behaved in the mouth. Texturally this shares a focus with the Langhe Nebbiolo, it's sweet and slightly chewy from the vintage but finishes with good thrust and focus. Holds its alcohol impressively well, you really don't get the alcohol here, though it does lends sweetness and a hint of warmth. Finishes well, with good length, but if this is not served at cellar temp it does come off as just a bit matte and blocky. 88pts
2015 Amelia Barbera d’Alba 15%
5-6 days5-6 days on the skins then only inox
A bit cocoa laced on the nose, though with lovely purity and intensity to the aromas of crushed fruit and polleny flowers. Elegant in the mouth with a real fine blend of fruit, roundness and an innate firmness. Nice mineral cut offers a fine counterpoint to the really pure and detailed fruit flavors. Not shy up front but gentle and precise on the backend. 87pts
2015 Bovio Langhe Nebbiolo Fi Ragnetti 14%
10 days of skin contact
8 months of used barrique and a little botte
Shows off a mineral nose, tense and taut, with hints of black tea, very pretty and high toned with a floral top note. Smooth on entry, there's that creaminess again though to a lesser degree, there’s lovely fruit here, really speaks about Nebbiolo with bright green fruit tones along with hint of herbs, Chamomile and white cherry fruit all laid over fine tannins and leading to a dusty finish. Creamy though with classic austerity. 87pts
2015 Broccardo Barbera d’Alba 14.5%
10 days maceration, 9 months in wood
Has a slender, lean imprint of oak but is in keeping with the intensity and style of the nose, which is fairly earthy. Showing real focus and cut in the mouth in a vibrant, steely, transparent, pure style. Good length, very fresh style, juicy with lovely red cherry fruit and fine length. 87pts
2015 Le Ginestre Barbera d’Alba 14%
13-14 days on the skins then ages for a year in 25hl Slavonian oak botte
Classic traditional barbera nose rich with aromas of soil, mineral, smoke, asphalt, and spicy floral notes. A clean and focused wine which has a hint of muscle but also good vibrancy While fruity in style this delivers fine mineral basenotes in a well proportioned and nicely knit package. The acids are obvious if not intrusive and washed away on the moderately long finishes by a hint of soil driven bitterness. 87pts
2015 Fratelli Manzone Barbera d’Alba 15%
Actually 15.8%
Deep ruby color. Dark on the nose and oily with a nice blend of old wood aromas, spicy fruit and brambly tones that hint at a little baked blackberry, blackberry pie. A touch thick in the mouth powerful, round and intense with lots of green herbal and floral accent notes. Rich yet fresh, and this holds its formidable alcohol very well, the alcohol lending this a sweetness. A bit short on the finish, but chewy, intense, and deep, this is a touch clumsy but people should love this if they are looking for a big wine from Piedmont. 87pts
2015 Monchiero Barbera Superiore 14%
10 day fermentation and aged in 50hl barrels for one year
Tight on the nose, all black cherry and soil driven spice, this has a lovely layer of flesh to it, fleshy yet bright with all that juicy black cherry fruit, and just a glaze of tannins. There’s lovely purity here, again a bit simple perhaps but with a liveliness and pretty fruit, blueberry, with a hint of spicy underbrush gracing the moderately long finish which ends with a gentle mineral wash. Classic and perfumed if just a bit simple. 87pts
2015 Tenuta Montanello Barbera d'Alba 14%
Aged in inox
Rather intensely aromatic with lovely leather, black cherry, balsamic, and dried herb aromas with just a hint of of black pepper. Pleasant in the mouth with good acids, lovely if simple sliced plum and red cherry fruit and a nice elegant nature. While lacking a touch of tension, this is clean and fresh, and the finish is actually very nice, long, with juicy acids and a lovely plummy nature. 87pts
2015 Tenuta Montanello Barbera d'Alba Crochetta 15%
Aged in barrique, 20% new, for ten months,
The nose shows the influence of the wood, it's a bit spicy and sweet with pipe briar and tobacco and vaguely cinnamon notes. Texturally it's more opulent and round in style, there's still plenty of vibrant acidity supporting lovely fruit, though a bit riper with more juicy and dark, black cherry toned fruit with rather fine violet notes in the mouth all topped relatively gently by oak and spice. Wood tannin remains in the mouth, it sticks out for me, but would be barely noticeable for most people. 87pts
2015 Mauro Sebaste Barbera Superiore Cento Bricchi. 15%
One year in 400 liter new wood
Smells like rye bread and Bologna, with strong white pepper and coriander notes. Savory more than fruity, but the oak is fairly well integrated, though this smells exactly of the mortadella. This is a real step up from the Valdivian Barbera, with fine depth and cut, a touch raw perhaps but it has only been in the bottle for two months. With the wood well integrated, plenty of acid here, and the alcohol held in check, just showing up a touch on the finish, this has solid potential. 87pts
2015 Alessandro Veglio Barbera d'Alba 14 5%
Aged only in inox
The graphite quality of Barbera is very pronounced and dominate the nose in a hard, black, minerally way. Much rounder in the mouth than the nose would suggest, though this remains a tense, mineral graphite laced wine in the mouth with cherry fruit that is a bit tight and still a bit short on the finish. Well balanced, acid could be a touch higher but it's enough, in a fruity style but the fruit is made out of graphite. In a way a better wine than the dolcetto, but not as drinkable. 87pts
2015 Viberti Barbera d’Alba La Gemella 14%
Lovely nose, gently fruity with wild cherry and gentle spicy vegetal notes. Bright and juicy in the mouth with lovely freshness and purity to the fruit, and fine ripe tannins lending this both a playful quality and length. Just textbook Barbera with this black cherry note on the finish, juicy good length, workmanlike but so delicious and well balanced and vibrant. Cleans the palate so well, great everyday Barbera. 87pts
2015 Voerzio - Martini Barbera d’Alba Ciabot della Luna 13.5%
8-10 months in barrique, 60% new all French
Savory on the nose with rich aromas of beef jerky and spicy citron, almost grapefruit pithy. This is a remarkably fruity style of wine with intense black fruit and spice flavors presented in a very cylindrical form. There’s layers of richly supple fruit and soft acids supporting flavors that are not distinct but are deeeeep. This is an extract of blue fruit, too much fruit for my palate but this is fresh and interesting with incredible length and a ready market. A parker wine. 87pts
2015 Elena Giuseppe Barbera d'Alba 14%
One year in SS
A bit redox which lends this that meaty note that it shares with the dolcetto. Bright acids prickle early on the tongue,followed by lacy fruit that is delicately rendered but with lovely appeal. Transparent and fresh plum skin flavors show a hint of cocoa and wild raspberry notes on the juicy finish with minerality that emerges the backend A fruity style but real Barbera acidity. 86pts
2015 Mario Marengo Barbera Vigna Pugnane 14.5%
5-6 days, malo in barrique, 8 months in wood, 15-20% new
Fairly smoky oak laced nose with spiced floral notes and black fruit layers under the carbon toasted notes. There is a lovely texture to this, fresh, with fine tannins, juicy and a bit dark, just a touch opaque though the acidity is terrific here and lends the dark fruit freshness, energy, and good drive to the quite ripe fruit on the finish with decent length. Rather light bodied, it's certainly attractive though the aromas are a bit much as this has a bit of an exotic edge to the aromas, verging on exotic it's like raspberry and kumquat. 86pts
2015 Diego Morra Barbera d'Alba 14.5%
Reticent on the nose, a bit if ivy, black pepper, and earthy spice does emerge with air. Nice cut in the mouth for a wine that carries a lot of fruit, though again slightly pasty with enough acidity to lend it lift and support the nicely formed plummy fruit. There's some nice inner mouth perfume here that emerges with time, balsamic and spicy, and good length. A bit of a muscular wine,chewy even for Barbera, yet remains fairly tense in the mouth, it's a nice wine again with some minerality gracing the moderately long finish. A style that new world palate can enjoy, 86pts
2015 Ciabot Berton Barbera d’Alba 13.5%
Aged in inox
Not a lot going on here except for an odd aroma of fresh fig on the nose. Not very varietal and oddly soft considering the modest alcohol. It is pleasant and pure, perhaps shows more classical feel than varietal character,though the acid is ok but not pronounced. It does have lots of intensity of flavor and is easy to drink. 85pts
2015 Cordero di Montezemolo Barbera d’Alba
Blend of all the little plots, 6-7 in a mix of woods
Black fruited on the nose, sweet black plum, which is gently wrapped in a fine nuanced sheen of oak Clean and linear on entry then gaining some fat in the mouth and through the midpalate with a hint of wood spice lending a touch of complexity, finishes a little on the sweeter side from the wood. A touch short, a touch four square but inarguably well made 85pts
2015 Le Strette Barbera d'Alba Persole 14.5%
Old vines 65-75 years old, with 25% planted twenty years ago
12 days on the skins followed by a year in only barrique 2nd and third passage
This is very yeasty on the nose right out of the bottle, and raw on the with a mineral accent note. This has a lovely ripeness, lots of fruit that is impressively fresh with good acids that are present though not particularly accentuated. Clean and bright with good cut and nice varietal flavors. A nicely pure example, easy to enjoy. 85pts
2015 Cascina Alberta Barbera d'Alba
Only SS, a selection was removed for the superiore tasted previously, six months in SS, using the less ripe grapes
Fruity on the nose with aromas of plums, tar, mint and wild flowers, this actually smells fairly sweet. Smooth, fairly rich but not heavy in the mouth with an intensity that recalls the superiore a bit. Fairly seamless with good juicy acidity, lots of black cherry and cut plummy fruit on the palate with a gentle wash of aromatic spice over the backend which turns peachy on the short finish. A touch clumsy, but the acidity keeps this from being excessively sticky, pretty short. 84pts
2015 Claudio Fenocchio Barbera d’Alba 14.5%
From vineyards in Bussia Ten h in Bussia, six for Barolo, one is Dolcetto, half is Freisa, half is Barbera
This vintage did a pass in the most recent 50hl botti, a cleaning pass,
There is some wood here on the nose, which is decidedly high toned, but there's an underlying sweetness here from the wood obscuring a lot of aromatic detail at this stage. Soft and supple from the vintage, though rich with dark cherry fruit. Clean and fresh and well made.with lovely if simple fruit on the palate, where there is less of a wood impact but aromatically this is challenging. 84pts
2015 Mauro Sebaste Barbera d'Asti Valdevani 15%
Exoticically spiced and fruity on the nose which shows meaty nuance and spicy with fennel seed note. A nice raw style of Barbera, with good cut and modest flesh in the mouth. Rather clean and fresh on the finish which shows good tart fruit and a lingering little bitterness. 84pts
2015 Bovio Barbera d’Alba Superiore Regia Veja 14.5%
Perhaps not totally typical with an earthy note to the nose along with slightly medicinal and floral extract notes. Enters the mouth a bit meaty, with a softness to it, almost a creaminess, the oak is not really noticeable as the palate is all crushed wild cherry fruit. Easy light finish which is driven by the acidity, obvious but not prominent. 83pts
2016 Barbera
2016 Massolino Barbera d'Alba 14.5%
Only aged in concrete
Lovely on the nose, all earthy and spicy, and quite floral. Leaning towards a focused,decidedly narrow waisted, and elegant expression of Barbera, this offers good ripeness with good transparency to the fresh is simple and pure black fruits that show fine persistence through the palate and on the modest finish. 86pts