Piedmont Sparkling Wines Tasted in 2017
These Alta langa sparking wines continue to be a novelty in Piemonte. There is no doubt the winemakers love the wines, and the challenge of producing them. In a region long famous for producing virtually exclusively red wines, and with little of note in the white wine department, the producers can be forgiven if they want, or need to add a little diversity to their lives.
Many of these wines are quite nice, but they are still outclassed by the more established Methodo Classico regions of Italy, though with more experience that could change, though considering how dominant red wines are here, and how high the quality has become, I don’t see producers devoting the time and resources to these sparkling wines for them to become serious challengers to the top wines on the world stage.
Having said that, I don’t think that is a bad thing. There is a need for and a demand for well priced, high quality local sparkling wines in the region and they don’t have to be exceptional. Very good and accessible will suffice. In which case one can say that Alta Langa wines have arrived.
NV Ettore Germano Rossana Brut Rose
Nebbiolo, 18 months on lees as opposed to the 3 years required by law for Alta Langa to preserve the fruit character and freshness, no maceration just a slow pressing.
Delicately aromatic with hints of dusty rose petals and strawberry fruit on the nose. Firm, lean, elegant in the mouth with nice hints of red sour cherry fruit over lightly tannic, dusty, and chalky soil driven flavors. There’s good length,and great cut on the palate, a nice contrast to the more opulent and fruitier Brut. 90pts
2014 Ferdinando Principiano Alta Langa
Still on lees, 30 months on lees, 60% Pinot Nero, the rest Chardonnay planted ten kilometers south of Monforte on the same Helvetians soils at 750 meters.
2014 second ferment with must, only SS,
Lovely red fruit graces the nose, along with perfumes of wild flowers. Bright with high acids in the mouth supporting lovely deep citrusy fruit that shows a hint of strawberry on the palate, good length, lean, fine, and focused with a fine perlage. Bone dry and brilliant. 90pts
2013 Ettore Germano Alta Langa Brut
80% Pinot Noir fermented in inox, rest Chardonnay fermented in tonneaux, first vintage was 2003. Adds one gram RS at degorgement.
Lovely fruit on the nose, a hint of spice graces fresh yeast dough and sweet yellow fruit aromas framed with a hint of sage. Bright acids in the mouth, juicy, not complicated but delicious and fruit driven, Upright on the palate, has a firm core and vibrant fruit,yet marries delicacy and power. 88pts
2013 Cascina Ballarin Extra Brut Chardonnay/Pinot Grigio 12.5%
Biscuity, ripe and intense on the nose with rich aromas of golden raisins. The mousse is a touch coarse, though this is refreshing and complex in an earthy registry with a bit of creaminess to the palate. Finishing briskly with nice mineral and green apple flavors, this is a bit simple but bright and fresh. 87pts
2012 Ghisolfi Spumante
60/40 Pinot Noir/Nebbiolo first vintage
Sweet on the nose, fruity nose, quite ripe fruit but very floral as well with aromas of apricot, custard and rose petals. Just a touch sweet in the mouth though with important structure, hints of bitterness and green walnut like flash across the palate before this finishes clean, crisp and assertive, with good focus and length, This has lots of flavor, a bit particular no doubt due to the nebbiolo but well made and interesting. that fruity, rose petal inflected palate pops on the backend with fairly large inner mouth perfumes before finishing on a mineral notes. 87pts
Many of these wines are quite nice, but they are still outclassed by the more established Methodo Classico regions of Italy, though with more experience that could change, though considering how dominant red wines are here, and how high the quality has become, I don’t see producers devoting the time and resources to these sparkling wines for them to become serious challengers to the top wines on the world stage.
Having said that, I don’t think that is a bad thing. There is a need for and a demand for well priced, high quality local sparkling wines in the region and they don’t have to be exceptional. Very good and accessible will suffice. In which case one can say that Alta Langa wines have arrived.
NV Ettore Germano Rossana Brut Rose
Nebbiolo, 18 months on lees as opposed to the 3 years required by law for Alta Langa to preserve the fruit character and freshness, no maceration just a slow pressing.
Delicately aromatic with hints of dusty rose petals and strawberry fruit on the nose. Firm, lean, elegant in the mouth with nice hints of red sour cherry fruit over lightly tannic, dusty, and chalky soil driven flavors. There’s good length,and great cut on the palate, a nice contrast to the more opulent and fruitier Brut. 90pts
2014 Ferdinando Principiano Alta Langa
Still on lees, 30 months on lees, 60% Pinot Nero, the rest Chardonnay planted ten kilometers south of Monforte on the same Helvetians soils at 750 meters.
2014 second ferment with must, only SS,
Lovely red fruit graces the nose, along with perfumes of wild flowers. Bright with high acids in the mouth supporting lovely deep citrusy fruit that shows a hint of strawberry on the palate, good length, lean, fine, and focused with a fine perlage. Bone dry and brilliant. 90pts
2013 Ettore Germano Alta Langa Brut
80% Pinot Noir fermented in inox, rest Chardonnay fermented in tonneaux, first vintage was 2003. Adds one gram RS at degorgement.
Lovely fruit on the nose, a hint of spice graces fresh yeast dough and sweet yellow fruit aromas framed with a hint of sage. Bright acids in the mouth, juicy, not complicated but delicious and fruit driven, Upright on the palate, has a firm core and vibrant fruit,yet marries delicacy and power. 88pts
2013 Cascina Ballarin Extra Brut Chardonnay/Pinot Grigio 12.5%
Biscuity, ripe and intense on the nose with rich aromas of golden raisins. The mousse is a touch coarse, though this is refreshing and complex in an earthy registry with a bit of creaminess to the palate. Finishing briskly with nice mineral and green apple flavors, this is a bit simple but bright and fresh. 87pts
2012 Ghisolfi Spumante
60/40 Pinot Noir/Nebbiolo first vintage
Sweet on the nose, fruity nose, quite ripe fruit but very floral as well with aromas of apricot, custard and rose petals. Just a touch sweet in the mouth though with important structure, hints of bitterness and green walnut like flash across the palate before this finishes clean, crisp and assertive, with good focus and length, This has lots of flavor, a bit particular no doubt due to the nebbiolo but well made and interesting. that fruity, rose petal inflected palate pops on the backend with fairly large inner mouth perfumes before finishing on a mineral notes. 87pts