2014 Barolo - Patience required, but will the fruit outlast the tannin?

It’s time to make a few new enemies. I’m once again playing the contrarian when it comes to assessing the current releases from Piedmont, which if you are to believe critical reviewsworth, are as good if not better than so many other highly acclaimed vintages.
 
Once again, it’s sort of not true. There are plenty of good and great wines from the vintage, a bit of a miracle considering the growing season that lead to the harvest, but at the same time there are disappointments and many of the better wines, while good, are in a style that will leave many consumers cold.
 
Let’s begin with the weather. It was dreadful during the summer season. Daily rains, cold weather, and little sunshine: a recipe for disaster. Disaster that was averted by the arrival of fine, warmer, and sunny weather in September and October; weather that allowed for the proper maturation of tons of fruit and the luxury of hang time that allowed for the production of some fine wines. But the quality is not universal and the style is particular.
 
One of the biggest issues facing producers in 2014 was the necessity, in order to produce important wines, of a reduction in yield. I spoke with many producers about this issue and while there was near unanimity in the need for aggressive yield reductions in 2014, that number ranged from 20% to in excess of 40%. I’ve included the reductions with most of the wines listed below to help better understand what eventually made it into the bottled wines this vintage.
 
Speaking of which, it’s worth remembering that vintage Barolo doesn’t have to be produced exclusively from a single vintage. There is an allowance that permits 15% of a different vintage to be added. That vintage can be a previous vintage, in which case the wine can be released on schedule, or a subsequent vintage, though if the latter the wines could only be released when that vintage is authorized for release. So if 2015 was used to boost some 2014s we presumably wouldn’t see them until the 2015s are released next year.  
 
While I can’t imagine smaller producers having some previous stock laying about in order to augment their 2014s, it is certainly possible that some larger producers did, and took advantage of the laws that allow for this to happen. After all this is precisely the reason this allowance was created. In theory it offers consumers better wines, but those of us interested in the top wines aren’t interested in better wines per se, instead we’re looking for authentic wines. Making this point somewhat moot, since the wines most likely to have been topped up with other vintages aren’t on our radar anyway.
 
There’s much talk in Piedmont, and elsewhere, about the value of crus: single vineyards wines. In some vintages this can be a valid argument, but in 2014 in Piedmont the crus, those most famous of them at least, truly distinguished themselves and reminded us why we are so familiar with those names. With the limited sunshine, southern slopes really had an advantage. Soils that offered better drainage also proved their worth. On the flip side, less well exposed vineyards struggled to ripen and lower vineyards as well as those with heavier clay soils may have ripened but offered fruit plump with water and dilute flavors.
 
Flavors are one of the big stories of 2014. These are not 2011s with all their succulent fruit. They are instead wines that recall those made in the past under similar but far from as extreme conditions. While there is fruit to be found here, pleasantly in the red end of the berry spectrum, there are also herbal flavors that often veer towards medicinal; an end of the spectrum that may be unfamiliar to those weaned on Nebbiolo from the recent spate of warmer vintages.
 
Another characteristic of the vintage is the remarkable transparency the relatively delicate fruit affords these wines. Minerality abounds in 2014, and for many, myself included, that’s a good thing. The best wines are fascinating, detailed, and complex; though there is a price to pay for this character. It manifests itself in both the delicacy of flavor but also in the structural nature of these wines. Common traits of most of these wines are high acids as well as under-ripe tannins, which are not issues by themselves as vintage like 1974 and 1980 have shown us, but when paired with modern winemaking and fruit that evolves more quickly it might manifest itself as an issue in the future.
 
From what I’ve tasted it seems as though the fruit in many of these wines is already showing signs of development. How these wines will mature is anyone’s guess but my gut feeling is that the structure will remain quite durable as the fruit evolves and begins to fade away. Again, not necessarily a bad thing if you plan on enjoying these wines over the coming decade or two, but I would not expect these wines to make old bones.
 
These will be wines to enjoy while other vintages mature, and offer a compelling argument and invaluable learning tool for the exploration of Barolo’s crus. Looking ahead it can be argued that 2014 is more interesting than 2015 will be. 2015 is shaping up to be like a hypothetical blend of the fruit of 2000 and the easy, if relatively brief burst of glory enjoyed by the 1985s. 2016 on the other hand is going to be something special. The wines are not blockbusters, they are silky, and elegant, and balanced, and seductive. Just try a Dolcetto or Barbera 2016 and you’ll see what I mean; just superb innate balance, a vintage that will probably drink well young and for decades.
 
I plan to buy some but not many 2014s, I really don’t need more wines though it will be interesting to follow the top two-dozen or so wines. Hopefully my friends will be more indulgent than I am prepared to be. At the end of the day 2014 will go down as a good vintage with some great wines, but its fame will rest more on the weather and modern winemaking’s ability to overcome almost anything than it’s innate quality. There have simply been too many truly great vintages since the turn of the century to leave much space for a vintage such as 2014. And as enamored as I might be with these wines, but vintage specific and in general, I don’t have the need for much more, particularly at the current pricing. I have been more aggressive in seeking out the few and fair between value players on the scene, since a $35 Barolo can be one of the great value plays in the wine market, but even there I think we’re coming to the end of the road.
 
 
It’s worth discussing some producers reviewed here to lend some context to the notes that follow. Piedmont has become quite a dynamic place of late, and keeping up on developments can be a little challenging, seeing as we’re tasting wines 4 years after production. Almost everyone is making better wine than they had in the past. That almost goes without saying, but styles change here and there and some smaller producers are catching up to the big boys and that is all worth mentioning.
 
At the top of the list this year I find Elvio Cogno and Massolino. Two producers who have made good wines for a while now, both have jumped to the top of the heap, which is high praise, but, while both might be considered to be traditionalists, their wines are not exactly what I would consider to be classical wines. Instead they offer the consumer a very polished interpretation of Barolo based on finesse and the unfettered expression of fruit. They are gorgeous, delicious wines, but they have their detractors. Time will tell, but I believe the youthful gloss of fruit that some find less attractive here will recede with time revealing gorgeous, precise, vibrant examples of aged Barolo.
 
 
Vietti did a fabulous job in 2014. The oak here and there is a bit more present than in riper vintages, but aggressive reductions in yields have lead to relatively rich wines and the house style, highlighting richness and a velvety texture, has worked very well in this vintage.  
 
Bartolo Mascarello, is probably in a golden age, producing the top wine or close to it in every vintage and 2014 is no exception. The problem, as we all know, is getting the wine at a reasonable price. I bought the 2013s, and intend to buy these wines if they remain available at relatively reasonable pricing but I fear 2014 might be my last vintage of these astoundingly good wines. 
 
Bruno Giacosa is back, almost. The quality of the 2014 Barolo is truly excellent, though it doesn’t have that spark, that something extra that positioned it at the top of the heap, though the heap has also become more crowded so perhaps it’s just context. Will be interesting to taste the next few vintages to see how things are developing here.
 
Fratelli Alessandria is making more refined wines than ever before, quite attractive but also in the style of Cogno and Massolino.
 
G D Vajra and Luigi Baudana are truly intriguing wines to taste together. The Vajra wines are all about precision while the Baudana wines offer more power and brawn, but both offer a certain purty which sets them apart and worked very well in 2014.
 
Brovia’s decision to produce just one Barolo in 2014 was a financial sacrifice, but given the wines it seems that it was the right thing to do. A wine that recalls the 2005 Rocche-Villero bottling from Brovia, more rustic than other recent wines and in need of cellaring it will be interesting to see where this goes.
 
The wines of Aldo Conterno have been much discussed of late. Are they really so anonymous and spoofed up? Not as far as I can tell. They do show their oak, but no more than handful of other producers, and I found nothing overdone in the wines I tried. They are powerfully fruit driven, but there is a certain appeal to that style.
 
There’s very little new to say about Burlotto. In addition to fabulous fragrant and elegant wines one could note the consistency here.  Almost every vintage is great and the Monvigliero in particular has been at the highest level vintage after vintage.
 
Agostino Bosco’s line-up this year was a revelation. A great, tiny producer that no one talks about but we will. Pricing remains entirely reasonable to boot, now if they could just get distributed.
 
Cascina Fontana produces one of the truly traditional Barolos. Classically produced and blending vineyards. Another producer that no one was talking about and who has already benefited from the rapid escalation of Barolo pricing creating space for new producers.
 
Giovanni Viberti’s riservas are excellent wines, a bit too expensive perhaps, at least in my market, but they are compelling but the real story here in the Buon Padre classic blend. It has remained very affordable and offers a lovely, early maturing example of traditional Barolo.
 
Barale’s wines only lack a bit of consistency, but when they’re good they offer a kick in the pants load of deep, complex and earthy fruit that is becoming hard to find.
 
Albertu Burzi might be Barolo’s newest producer, Giulia Negri is younger, but he is already making a name for himself with his elegant easy to enjoy renditions of Barolo. Delicate, fresh, and excitingly different.
 
Speaking of Giulia Negri, while her 2014 was still in barrel as of my visit in May, it is shaping up to be fine. Not her best wine but what she is doing is nothing short of amazing. Watching her experiment, take risks, work tirelessly, and produce the wines that she has is convincing evidence of her accent to greatness. Keep an eye on her.
 
Reverdito is a relatively unknown winery that has reverted to more traditional winemaking and while the wines are not exceptional there is no denying that they are headed in that direction. As Barolo gets more and more expensive I have redoubled my effort to suss out real values, and Reverdito tops my list this year.  
 
Cascina Ballarin rarely gets any mention and I have to say that the wines have always struck a cord with me. Some bottlings are too oaky, but when the balance is right these are some lovely, complex, fruity but far from vulgar wines which I am happy to have in my cellar, even if that means hand carrying them.
 
Barolo 2014 tasted in 2018
 
94pts
 
2014 Elvio Cogno Barolo Bricco Pernice 14%
 
Barrel sample, to be bottled in August
 
Smells of the barrel, spicy cinnamon oak, underneath is a lipstick, waxy, creamy nose filled with mint, sweet herbs, sweet tobacco and lovely sweet candied violet notes. Wow, this is fabulous wine in any vintage, there's a lot of burnished fruit tannins are really abundant but ripe, lots of ripe tannins lots of acid but it is already showing lots of complexity as well.  There's an effortlessness here, a layering of savory and fruity flavors that are the essence of Barolo, with an elegance on the finish that shows fruit sweetness buffeted by the juiciness of the acidity. Almost chewy in the mouth but there’s only substance not flesh here, with limestone driven tannins flourishing on the cranberry and herbal finish, which just goes on and on.
 
2014 Massolino Barolo Parafada
 
A reduction of about 40%
 
The best in the Massolino lineup this year showing off  a giant bowl of fruit with a stronger Serralunga imprint on the nose, replete with dark earthy notes and medicinal herbs, and a very fine floral top note, and a hint of dried lemon peel. Fuller, rounder, more mineral than its stable mates, this is refined, elegant, and  a superb wine. Tannins are limestone driven, good length driven more by salt and mineral than the fruit, which is a measure lighter than usual, revealing the terroir of Parafada like never before. An extreme expression of the terroir of Parafada, what a wine.
 
2014 Vietti Barolo Ravera
 
A touch dusty and early on the nose which shows of nuanced yet bright aromas of lots of cut plum, rose petals, and ripe herbs. For the vintage this a particularly intense and ripe nose. Wow this is velvety, full, and rich in the mouth with detailed flavors of soil, cut cherry, and a lingering spice note that wrapped up in the fruit. A vintage in which the house style really helps highlight the fruit without obscuring structural detail. Tannins are ripe and acids remain juicy even though this is almost lush in the mouth. Rich, velvety and a standout for the vintage with a long, supple finish. This is fabulous in this style.
 
93 pts
 
2014 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 14%
 
40% reduction
 
I put my nose in this and the first thing I think it that this doesn't smell like a 2014, with its super floral aromatics that are paired with impressively ripe and classic marasca cherry fruit along with a hint of jasmine perfume.  Tannins are ripe, round, and support lovely fruit, that remains crystalline, long, and juicy through the finish where acids peek out. This is so playful, dancing across the palate, with finely aromatic inner mouth perfumes, lovely transparency, and mineral laced flavors that lingered salinity on the red fruited finale.
 
2014 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto 14%
 
Tight, floral, and savory nose, where one can begin to see the signature of modern Giacosa emerging. There's a meaty base note here, and lovely gentle tan spice notes all framing a core of citrus pith and red curranty fruit,. Entering the mouth with the subtlest suggestion of flesh amply filled out with sweet tannins, there's a nutty tone, walnuts, that is a concession to the vintage along with sour cherry fruit and hint of red currant. A fairly broad wine, with good depth of flavor, really classic flavors rich with noble tannins, a fine bead of minerality, that yields to an austerity on the backend that offers contrast to the fairly rich layer of fruit. Elegant and decidedly well balanced with the tart flavors of the vintage but no assertive acid imprint, and decent length. Very well put together, if smaller scaled but complete, this should age effortlessly.
 
2014 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera 14.5%
 
Wow, the nose here is treated by delicacy, freshness and sweetness. An array of herbal, violet, subtle sweet orange, and gorgeous floral notes come together with a cinnamon top note. Tense in the mouth, very taut with fruit here that’s not sweet but layered and nuanced. The tannins are classic delicate tannins. Fine retro nasal fruit aromas add cut grass and mineral notes. Totally different style than 2013 but still a real classic example of a 2014 that looks like a wine from the 1970s, an absolutely top wine from the 70s. It's one of the most backward, most classic wines of the trip with ripe tannins that are noble and lingering flavors of cherries jubilee and cranberry compote on the long finish. Buy and cellar unlike virtually every other 2014 this is not easy nor offering early appeal.
 
2014 Elvio Cogno Barolo Elena Riserva 14.5%
 
All stemmy and rose scented on the nose with more cherry notes and a strong base of underbrush, lime, and citrus aromas.  So perfumed, delicate and elegant with a grapefruit note on the nose, this is so easy after the previous wines, juicy and a bit tart, perhaps more vintage character here, with finely ripe tannins but with less substance and a more delicate character. Lots of red currant fruit on the nose, smells a touch astringent, and one finds more of a chalky note of soil present here,. A lovely wine, nuanced but not quite at the level of the Bricco Pernice, though more similar to that than to the Ravera. The tannins are distinctly different though, much more reminiscent of thistle and tea.
 
2014 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo Gramolere 14%
 
Brooding on the nose with masculine cologne perfumes, very high toned and narrow waisted revealing aromas of a bouquet of flowers, dried grasses and black oily rosemary garrigue herbs. Tightly packed in the mouth, very linear, with excellent cut and dark if barely ripe fruit which is rich with braised herbals notes,. Texturally this is nuanced and complex, with fine powdery tannins that limit the keep the finish a bit shorter than the Monvigliero but offers more cut, structural interest, and nuance on the palate. Very fine, real finesse with power here, just lovely transparency on the backend and through the finish, which shows real energy, and wild black cherry. This pushes past the vintage and will be great wine.
 
2014 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cerretta
 
Woodsy, savory, and showing a little tea and thistle with an underlying hint of soil and mushroom on the nose followed by decidedly spicy, blue floral top notes. Very pretty, and very aromatic, this is elegant and fine with ripe tannins, very fresh, lovely tannins supporting finely textured and detail white cherry fruit that shows good length, though without much amplitude in the mouth. Quite seductive, but also quite austere and tense at the same time with a tensile strength and verve in the mouth while remaining fine and elegant. This demands cellar time but will no doubt be one of the wines of the vintage in 20 years.
 
2014 Massolino Barolo Margheria 14.5%
 
Ethereal aromas, floral and fruity, with notes of dried tree bark, and a gentle medicinal framing note lending nuance. There is substance to this wine, a little fat even lending depth and covering material to the palate though this remains stern and not super expressive. All herbal and nuanced on entry, then tight, this will age very well. Tannins are tightly packed but generally supple, lending this a long, sinewy, powdery soil driven palate impression.  Air brings out more floral perfumes in the mouth, this is terrific, a real achievement for the vintage with fabulous persistence to the emerging fruit.
 
2014 Luigi Baudana Cerretta 13.5%
 
More serralunga on the nose than the Baudana, with a great presence of fruit on the nose fully ripe and dark cherried, chalky, slightly grassy and green herbal tinged. Fine and elegant on the nose. On entry there is a distinct note of sweetly ripe fruit and ripe tannins that are beautifully knit, transparent, and much more linear than the Baudana. Shows great tension and balance, this is terrific and will surprise on the upside with great tart notes of currant bracing the midpalate before this turns really energetic and burly, yet with noble tannins that show off real finesse on the finish, promising great things to come.
 
2014 G. D. Vajra  Barolo Ravera 14%
 
Dark and earthy on the nose, with classic aromas of cut cherries in alcohol, very fresh, slightly reticent, with very little 2014 character on the nose,  just a touch of her stemminess. Light, lithe and compact in the mouth, with lovely fruit, and real ripeness to the tannins offering  fine balance in the mouth.  There's a suppleness innate to the wine, a ripeness that is rare to find in the vintage. This will need a few years for sure, but with its finely balanced feel, focused fruit with good height in the mouth, and a fine, ghostly follow through on the finish it’s a buy.
 
2014 Vietti Rocche di Castiglione 14%
 
There’s old wood here on the nose, which is very complex offering up detailed aromas of rose, orange rind, sand and grassy, red cherry fruit with a hint of pomegranate. This is a lot of wine here, transparent and revealing a core rich in mineral inflected raspberry and cherry fruit which is vibrant and vivid in the mouth offering so much height on the palate. Without the layered complexity of the finest vintage, this nonetheless explodes on the palate with energy, length and finesse. A fabulous wine, the subtle wood notes notwithstanding.
 
92
 
2014 Brovia Barolo Unio
 
Two crus plus some plots of Brea
 
Tight on the nose with an early edge of antiseptic, stony, cool and very menthol driven with an almost chlorine accent all lending complexity to the rather unusual peach, lime, and wildflower araoms. With sweetness early on the palate, lovely ripe tannins, and flavors that mimic the nose, in that they are slightly herbal, vegetal flavors this is notably distinct. Tannins are austere, acids well covered by fruit, not a ton but noticeably cherry fruit here is well balanced, and complex, if a touch chunky, clunky. Really good follow through on the long finish which reveals a certain brightness to the fruit, followed by nice minerality emerging on the backend and adding real complexity to the finish. Layered and nuanced, I do like this as it has some sweetness to it but at the same time it’s a rather aggressive wine and decidedly old school.
 
2014 Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 14%
 
5K out of 23k potential bottles
 
Slightly smoky on the nose with aromas of sweet licorice and herbs preserved in salt and quartz and grey clay. Pretty well rounded, offering a lovely blend of texture and fruit. Slightly chewy, with gently perfumed floral notes on the nose and in the mouth, which shows good energy and cut, along with really fine minerality. While lacking the fruit of better years, this does have the balance and complexity of a classically austere wine rich with the pleasant bitterness of minerality. Tannic, but the tannins are far riper than many in 2014, and they contribute to the great tension here. An exciting wine with incipient savory tones peeking out on the finale. 


2014 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi 14%
 
Stemmy and quite floral if very savory on the nose with lots of dark macerated rose petal, rosa canina, sandy soil and a base of dark fruit. There's a fine layer of flesh here, tannins that are ripe supporting strawberry fruit that is tart, and a bit raw, but here there are more ripe flavors of rose petal and red fruit that shows real elegance and finesse.  Fine length with real complexity and transparency, I love the tannins here, slightly chalky and dusty, a bit embryonic but not crude, quite impressive, could easily be  someone else's 2013. There's a real touch of density to this on the long finish, with aromatics that are quite classic, really lovely rose scents, but the palate lags the aromatics a bit at this point.
 

2014 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero 14%
 
Wow, gorgeous in any vintage with classic if higher toned aromas than normal, all thyme, a hint more mint than usual, and wild strawberries which are less sweet than usual You have to work to find the sweet cinnamon spice notes and while aromatically this is great, it’s noticeably lighter in the mouth than usual and the vintage is fully expressed in the tart fruit character very far to the red fruit end of the spectrum pushing watermelon rind with more spicy notes on the mouth. Elegant and there's just enough intensity here though the tannins are a bit more prominent than usual, but it is ripe and fine, this should offer a fine set of spice notes with a bit more age,  a wine that deserves time. I do however have a slight concern about the intensity of the tannins land this seems to lack some follow through on the finish.
 

2014 Agostino Bosco Barolo la Serra 14%
 
Heathery alpine herbs and flower are pretty intense on the nose which shows lovely tea, bergamot, and dried pineapple  aromas as well. Very perfumed and very attractive on the nose. almost a bit chunky in the mouth with fine tannins but with more weight than the Neirane and more depth. Great minerality underpins the intense, stony, crushed berry fruit here and lends a vague yet attractive bitter edge, austere tannins. Fruit remains vaguely bitter but persists on the finish with fine length, elegance and terrific cut. Buy this and cellar it,  this is missing nothing. A lovely rendering of the vintage with a finish that it so nervous, structured yet ripe and impressive length with succulent fruit through the finale. This is a good wine in any vintage.
 

2014 Cascina Fontana Barolo 14%
 
Almost 40% reduction in production bottled in February instead of May
 
Quite classic on the nose, there's a hint of quince here which hints at under ripeness, cool aromas of rose petals, crisp red fruit, chalky soil tones, rosehips, and a slightly jammy, medicinal base note. Wow this is elegant, it's fully ripe accepting of the limitations of the vintage, complete, structured, everything you want in a Barolo; there's nuance, transparency of soil tones and it's already attractive and should emerge as one of the top wines of the vintage. So tense in the mouth, sure it's a bit smaller than a better year but with such transparent style and ripeness of tannins that really sets this apart.
 

2014 Sandrone Barolo Aleste
 
Caramel greets the nose, followed by a tight hint of mint, and an exotic note here of very ripe pomegranate and spiced fruit aromas. Supple yet rich in the mouth with more power than the Le Vigne but still offering such elegance. Lacking some depth and perhaps this is a touch dilute in contrast to a better vintage but it's almost like they shrunk a better year. Builds on the back end with tons of black cherry fruit, which shows particular density for the vintage, and cut and tension through the finish.
 

2014 G. D. Vajra  Barolo Bricco delle viole 13.5%
 
Really so pure and floral on the nose, tart red fruited, with a sense of delicacy to the perfumes of intense raspberry, mint, rose and menthol. Rounded on entry, and while this is rather taut and firm, it's not large scaled and remains in balance. There’s a juiciness here but also a touch of astringency, great cherry fruit on the palate is framed by very pure rose petal and savory herb stem notes. Less accessible than usual but that bodes well for the cellar, good fruit  and quite complex if very bright, and very complete finishing with lots of licorice and mint.
 

2014 Giovanni Viberti Barolo Riserva Ravera
 
This smells dark and powerful, richly herbal with all sorts of fresh and dried herbs laid over Rainier cherry fruit, accented with mushroom and freshly tilled earth aromas. Showing a tight core of fruit on the palate, this is less open but better balanced than the Bricco delle Viole, perhaps a touch small scaled, but this has everything, lovely fruit, a suggestion of fruit sweetness, a bit of spiciness, good length, and ripe tannins. Very fine, with great clarity and super fine white soil minerality on the lengthening finish.
 
2014 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito 14%
 
Has some oak on the nose which is uncharacteristically light at this stage even if it does reveal perfumes of dark roses, with air bringing aromas of spiced cherries, dark berries and a very nice darkly earth and classic core of leathery dark spice to the fore. This is very good if a touch lighter than most previous vintages, still offering up a rich core of red plum and sour cherry fruit with a cocoa tinged earthy edge and ripe tannins filling the mouth. Long, elegant, and finely balanced showing great tannins. In the mouth this remains a bit crude but is both very linear and very vertical. Not a bad drink today but better in 5 years.


91pts
 
2014 Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello 14%
 
There's a fine note of wood here but it's wrapped in the dark cherry and slightly plummy fruit, tobacco, and menthol. A bit smaller scaled than usual but true to type, on entry there's real fruit here, it's tart, barely ripe raspberry, but it's fruity, edgy, bright with cut if initially a bit short. Finely balanced, with good well-knit tannins lending this a transparent, elegant and tight feel that turns succulent on the finish with a fine mineral wash on the lengthening finale. This has remarkable energy, and while small scaled in a sense the balance bodes well for the future. Finishing with floral and ethereal almost purple yet still tart fruit redolent of lingonberry and blueberry and a little air brings out a real profound cherry lozenge fruit.
 
2014 Barale Barolo Bussia 14%
 
And added jump in freshness from the rest of the line-up here, this offers up real complexity, all frutti del Bosco toned along with a little bit of forest floor and  spicy cherries; this has strong fruit aromas. A touch loose across the palate but rich with tart cherry fruit that lacks some complexity perhaps, but this has tons of fruit, ripe tannins, a fine silky texture, with that strong fruit lingering on the finish, all raspberry and minty strawberry toned. Subtle aromatic complexity emerges with time, balsamic in the mouth, and slightly medicinal, in fact the persistence to the medicinal fruit here is impressive, this is a wine to buy and cellar.
 
2014 Alberto Burzi  Barolo
 
In 2014 made only this not with the readiness of the 13 and the 15
 
More savory and spicy and less fruity than the 2013 but no less intense on the nose with a fine sweetness to the cardamom, orange rind, nutmeg and macerated rosebud roams Elegant if a bit firm with masterful tannin management. In the mouth it's a bit less savory than on the nose, with fine tension, minerality, and taut, steely, red cherry fruit, mint and cherry rich cough lozenge flavors gracing the lengthening finish. The tannins are all up front in the mouth, they will soften and this will be very fine, a bit short but it is so young and yet with an immediate appeal.
 
2014 Canonica Barolo Paiagallo
 
A little less natural smelling than the Grinzane Cavour. Minty and more herbal and already a touch leathery with lots of old wood influence, forest floor, dried rosemary and butchers wax aromas with hints of black pepper and dried juniper. Brighter, rounder and better fruited than the Grinzane bottling, this is really quite good; even if the tannins are quite 2014 with their dry and austere quality. While structurally assertive the tannins are backed up by fine, slightly medicinal fruit. There’s real persistence to both the structure and the rich, slightly earthy bitter cherry fruit. This looks to be shaping up very nicely indeed might always be a touch tough but this should be really good.
 
2014 Chiara Boschis Pira Barolo Mosconi 14%
 
50% reduction in yield
 
Menthol top note greet the nose followed by aromas of handfuls of dirty herbs, lots of savory chinato notes, and very ripe, liquory, blue plum fruit. Lovely in the mouth, bright, edgy, with some hard edges to the a tannins but this is rather elegant as it floats across the palate. The oak today seems to be mostly absorbed, there's a hint on the wood spice on the backend but it is not intrusive.  Juicy acids lends this great focus on the finish which is a kept a touch short by rpe if assertive tannins, but shows attractive sweet and savory slightly medicinal, blueberry tinged fruit.
 
2014 Aldo Conterno Barolo Romirasco 14%
 
4600 out of 24k potential bottles
 
A rather sweet pool of fruit greets the nose, coupled with sweetness from wood and sweet middle eastern spices. This is elegant, a real steel fist in a velvet glove; powerful if medium bodied with lovely tart, but ripe fruit, sandy, mineral base notes, and already showing some tobacco nuance with good depth on the palate. Impressively long, this is sinewy and supple at the same lending this a seductive texture. There's a bit of plumminess to the fruit in the mouth with a minty top note and a spiciness on the finish. Really quite ripe for the vintage, with quite fine grained tannins, showing oak on the nose though, and not quite seamless but close.  
 
2014 Elio Grasso Barolo 14%
 
20-30% less
 
Green watermelon rind greets the nose along with perhaps a touch of wood spice, lightly smoky tobacco notes and aromas that are a bit spicy floral. Lighter bodied and smaller scaled than one typically sees here with lovely fruit and balance here. With a fine edge and cut on the palate, the fruit is red berried with an incipient hint of sweetness to this. Tastes and feels like a Barolo Classico with and attractive energy and drive. Rose petals emerge on the more orange juice toned finish. This is one of the easier barolos to drink in this vintage, kind of simple but delicious and its drinkable already. All cherry fruited, this is soooo drinkable and delicious this is fun.
 
2014 Francesco Rinaldi Cannubi 14%
 
Here is another step up in depth and nuance on the nose from the Brunate with lovely elegance and femininity to the rose petals and salty and sandy soil tones. Supple on entry, delicate and nuanced, this shows terrific Cannubi character, neither particularly intense nor complex but with a great soil driven base note, salinity, and purity, it has a more effortless quality to it. A tense, little nugget of a wine, here the frit is really red and red curranty even, really soil driven through the finish. This is a Barolo nut’s wine, it's not really fun at the moment and will require age to reveal its full potential but is classic Cannubi.
 
2014 Guido Porro Barolo Santa Catarina 14%
 
Tank sample, taken out of wood yesterday
 
This has some wood influence still on the nose, but it's notably more intense and complex than the Lazzairasco with aromas of licorice, white flowers, fresh fruit and some earthy notes all expressed with freshness. A step up in the mouth as well with both the freshness of flavor and the ripeness of tannin being superior.  There's almost a hint of sweetness to this in the mouth, with moderately rich but intense flavors of huckleberry black, cherry, oolong tea and a touch of black spice all coming together with fine focus on the long finish. Tannins are very well judged and finely knit lending this both elegance and balance with fine verticallity in the mouth for smaller scaled and less complex wine that one might find in a riper vintage.  than riper vintages, but this is complete and delivers lots of depth of flavor length, and elegance.


2014 Marcarini Barolo La Serra 14.5%
 
Jammy wild cherry aromas great the nose, which is high toned and perfumed with hints of ink and Iris. With tons of sweetness early on the palate, and with good tension in the mouth, this comes across as wide open today and totally transparent in the mouth. Fine-grained tannins support wild cherry fruit, and great acids cleanse the palate on the back end and through the fairly long finish. Very high toned with some sweet tree bark, cinnamon like notes adding detail to both the nose and the mouth. This is super expressive today, with unusual depth for La Serra, while retaining the classic texture and bouquet of La Serra.
 
2014 Marcarini Barolo Brunate 14.5%
 
More animale on the nose with dark fruit framed by aromas of rose petals, mint, bricks. In the mouth this is denser and more opaque than the la Serra but it shows fine inner mouth perfumes of wild herbs, floral notes and tart berry fruit, with excellent balance and good length. Not as flamboyant as the La Serra but with a cool determination, it may be a bit shy today but the wine is well balanced long, and classic.
 
2014 Fratelli Oddero Brunate
 
More of an herbal expression on the nose with dark fruit and lots of wild fennel and wild mint accents. Opens with a touch of flesh on entry and in fact across the plate, with real presence of rich fruit on the palate, the tannins here are ripe, and balanced by good acids offering lovely depth and length on the finish. This is one of the more complete 2014s, though not really ready yet as it remains a touch compact on the finale, which is bracingly mineral and salty. A wine that needs time though I’m not fully convinced that he fruit will eventually emerge as prominently as the herbal and mineral components here.
 
2014 Palladino Barolo Ornato 14.5%
 
This is intense on the nose, salty, mineral and earthy, dark almost black cherry fruit. Already very finely textured in the mouth, this is going to be silky when mature. There’s good depth on the palate, which shows some chewy tannins, along with clear fruit, a touch astringent, but still this is complete with gorgeous red cherry amarena cherry fruit peeking out on the finish framed by lovely tannins: austere, noble tannins.
 
2014 Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 14%
 
Subtle on the nose with lovely nuanced aromas that are fine and precise, this has a perfume most wines of the vintage doesn't have, floral, mineral, and vaguely green spiced. There's a sense of under ripeness to the fruit flavors here but the texture is very fine, offering plenty of roundness with impressive intensity on the backend and through the finish which is obviously supported by acids. Slightly small scaled, but this is complete and elegant, juicy and red fruited. I have to say I like this.
 
2014 Sordo Barolo Villero 14%
 
Rose petals greet the nose followed by really fully ripe red cherry and ripe herb inflected tarry, sunny, black raspberry and rosehip fruit. A touch simple on entry if offering pleasantly chewy fruit supported by very ripe tannins. This has an easiness in the mouth that is surprising, with really impressive ripeness and depth here. It's classic Villero, ripe, rounded, fruity, but with plenty of nuance and spice, lovely length with gently ripe and almost sweet tannins. Atypical of the vintage with a ripeness that does not speak of 2014 but beyond that it is a very enjoyable wine.
 
2014 Sordo Barolo Monprivato 14%
 
Impresses with intense perfumes on the nose, all gently sweet, floral subtle base notes over strawberry and amarena cherry fruit with just a suggestion of backing spice. Lovely in the mouth with great balance, acids are well balanced by the supple, small tannins. This is very Castiglione, offering good transparency, fine depth and vibrant, juicy fruit. Finishing with good length with hints of tar and anise spice on the finale. Unusually fruit driven for the vintage. Atypical of the vintage with a ripeness that does not speak of 2014 but beyond that it is a very enjoyable wine.
 
2014 Sordo Barolo Ravera 14%
 
Lots of ripeness on the nose, which is rich with aromas of dark flower, dark fruit, black cherry and blackberry. Supple tannins grace the palate with a core of of fruit that is quite fine’ quite ripe, though far from over-ripe, juicy black cherry skin flavors are joined by slightly minty and slightly medicinal herbal notes that have just a suggestion of Mediterranean herb in the mouth. The tannins are fine and ripe if powerful through the moderately long. This is complete, very good, very juicy, and transparent. A relative home run for the vintage, if unusually fruit driven for the vintage.


90 pts
 
2014 Broccardo Barolo Bricco San Pietro 14%
 
Fairly intense and complex on the nose which shows a floral character with a touch of wild fennel and slightly gamy, herbal top notes, fine fruit as well with a gentle sense of sweetness coming from wood. Tannins here are fine lending this a certain elegance with fruit that is slightly bitter and displaying fine transparency revealing slightly salty soil tones the remind of clay on the midpalate before the fruit return on the backend. Showing significant fruit for the vintage through the long finish, it's elegant and well balanced and really quite harmonious but the level of fruit is what sets this apart. It's not quite ready but will only need 2-4 years but this has the potential to surprise greatly on the upside.
 
2014 Canonica Barolo Grinzane Cavour 14%
 
This is a natural wine, you can just tell from smelling it but the  soapy floral notes and dusty mineralty layered of astringent red fruit offer more than interest to distract from that point.  Quite complex and darker than I would have expected from the nose. There’s real flesh here up front, though the vintage shows through in the quality of the tannins, but this really doesn’t lack much and is in fact rather sweet for the vintage and moderately complex. The finish is lean but long, with the juicy fruit of the palate paired with rather firm, slightly dry tannins and lots of licorice. The tannins might outlast the fruit but this should have a good 20-year run.
 
2014 Chiara Boschis Barolo Via Nuova 14%
 
Wow this is savory on the nose, meaty, aromas of ragu, cooked tomato, and a touch of fruitiness with the vaguest hint of wood. Elegant and ready, this is a lovely wine to drink sooner rather than later but it will age for 10-12 years without a doubt. Juicy in the mouth with simple flavors of cherry fruit with just a touch of oak spice. Real Barolo, just a lovely super drinkable wine, it's tender but tense, with late arriving inner mouth perfumes of delicate flowers and hints of tar and leather. The wood tannins might outlive the fruit here but today this is gulpable: a perfect restaurant Barolo.
 
2014 Luigi Einaudi  Barolo Cannubi 14%
 
Rich on the nose with cherry in alcohol, tea leaves, and dried Mediterranean herbs, this shows good complexity but lacks the depth of the best vintages and its already showing noticeable evolution. . The mouthfeel seems to be built upon dry extract and not so rich with glycerin, there’s no stickiness here but it is a bit chewy. Stern, stony flavors lay under a base of gauzy fruit on the palate. Not a big wine but one that offers some elegance and finesse with particularly attractive, well knit tannins that support the juicy cherry flavors through the moderately long finish.
 
2014 Fratelli Alessandria  Barolo Monvigliero 14%
 
Big step up here, this has terrific fruit on the nose, with real classic thyme truffle Iris, and intense rose water aromas with a hint of talc. Showing a touch of flesh in the mouth, this remains quite linear in the mouth, bright, finely textured with fruit that is red but very perfumed, filling the mouth with aromas of rose petals and a hint of red currant fruit.  Tannins are lacy, classic Verduno wine that ends with big acid driven finish that is not yet fully covered.  A lovely elegant wine, complete with lingering sweet tannins, that are very gentle and playful, but the fact that the finish reveals more structure than fruit is modestly worrisome.
 
2014 Le Checche Barolo Sorano 14.5%
 
Sweetish on the nose with classic medicinal aromas, lots of chinato spice, with a carob base note and a little suggestion of sassafras. Supple in the mouth, there's really finer inner mouth perfumes here reminiscent of medicinal, chinato spices and orange rind but layered and detailed. A bit diffuse and short on the finish but this in the mouthfeel is fascinating and really captures the terroir well. Tannins are ripe lend this an elegant feel.  Certainly savory but with fine fruit this could age quite well.
 
2014 Luigi Oddero  Barolo Rocche Rivera 14%
 
A big step up here with lovely rose petals finesse on the nose, with a sweetness that is rare to find in the vintage. Pretty with strong red cherry and raspberry fruit, a touch of green or white peppercorn the some sweet baking spices. On entry this comes off as a touch too subtle in the mouth, a sign of the vintage, but this is a lovely, elegant, delicate Barolo with super ripe tannins, good acids, and so much better balance than the base Barolo here.  A truly elegant example with early appeal and the balance to age well for 12-15 years. Smaller scaled but vibrant and perfumed, if a touch simple.
 
2014 Fratelli Oddero Barolo Rocche
 
Very interesting, all soil driven white minerality one the nose along with a touch of salted caper. There's a sweetness here, more floral than fruity, in a rather nuanced and delicate perfume. An elegant, supple wine this expresses the vintage with delicacy instead of austerity, very finely textured, and downright seductive. I can see this evolving well in the short and medium term, a wine worth following, the retro nasal intensity here sets this above the other wines in the line-up.
 
2014 Pecchenino Barolo San Giuseppe 14%
 
Good on the nose and not very 2014. Fine herbal framing notes of menthol and wild mint back up black cherry fruit. Easy going, elegant, and not lacking fruit, it's a simple Barolo but one that really is built on black cherry fruit Fresh on the backend as well, with finely ripe, if assertive tannins. Fine persistence to the fruit, though there's an overall leanness to the flavors here, but not the texture of the wine. Perhaps lacking some complexity though this does finish with minerality and some licorice styled medicinal flavors.
 
2014 Ferdinando Principiano  Barolo Serralunga 13%
 
Nice aromatic freshness to the dark cherry fruit that is framed by hints of tobacco and moist earth with an excellent fresh and dried herbal top notes and an edge of pomegranate. Very complex. Bright on entry, linear in the mouth with slightly austere tannins supporting lots of lingonberry fruit and balsamic, evergreen top notes. A bright, juicy, and transparent wine with a hint of pepperiness here lending detail through the long finish. Just great drinkability, with brilliant red fruit, and ripe tannins lending this a certain seductiveness.
 
2014 RoccheViberti Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 14%
 
A touch of ass greets the nose here, along with aromas of leather and spice. Actually very complex and attractive, in the mouth there is sufficient flesh to keep this appealing and some faint Rocche fruit as well. The structure offers elegance and finesse in spades, with some late arriving fruit but it's a tough vintage for Rocche. A little chewy, and very dry, this is a good cellar candidate as this is not an immediate wine, it's short today. Not sure how much length will emerges with time but the finale shows a nice hint of limestone soil. This benefits notably from some air and turns out to be better than at first glance with fruit emerging on the finish.
 
2014 Schiavenza Barolo Prapo
 
Here on finds a bit of a chocolatey cast to the aromas which are very salty and chalky, dark and mysterious with a hint of machine oil followed by, mint wild fennel, and aromas that are more herbal than medicinal but still in the medicinal family. There is a sweetness here as well, married to a delicate, nuanced wine, perhaps the most complete of these the offerings here. Fine taut, dried red berry flavors are layered over salty soil tones with good lift in the mouth and fine length with mature, ripe tannins supporting, juicy and modestly rich fruit. That the other wines lack, ending with a burst of aromatic rosehips.
 
2014 Simone Scaletta Barolo Bussia 14%
 
The wood impact here is noticeable, between the two other wines in the line-up. Here there is all tonneaux and the difference is obvious. A supple juicy wine, lovely fruit, if modest in scale with tannins are well knit and acids that are kept in check. Harmonious, and quite fine, with strong red fruit on the palate, which shows good persistence on the finish. Quite good, though in need of some time, this is well balanced and while there is a subtle wood influence I can see that diminishing and the texture turning quite silky and elegant here. Really good fruit for the vintage.
 
2014 Sobrero Barolo Parussi 14%
 
This has a slight grapefruit note on the nose that other wines in the line-up share. A more soil driven aromatic profile is graced by notes of leather and offers up a sweet and spiced bouquet that reminds a bit of a very fine Barbera. Nicely rendered example of the vintage, with tannins are relatively lacy, fruit that is light but present, with clay soil tones slightly obvious but layered and subtle. It's obviously from a lesser year but everything is in proportion, well measured and harmonious and the fruit lingers nicely, if tart and barely ripe, on the long, focused finish. Good finesse here that is rare for the vintage.
 
2014 Sordo Rocche di Castiglione 14%
 
Very fine on the nose with lots of rose petal and amarena cherry fruit topped with plenty of spice and nuance. Opens with a dark, inky accent, before revealing a more elegant, finely textured nature, this does display a hint of dilution, noticeable particularly on the midpalate but the array of flavors are so classic, with lithe tannins, polleny flowers, a hint of almond shell that it’s easy to overlook. This does have just that slight drop offs the midplate but this is elegant, with important tannins and fine fruit, another impressive wine for the vintage, if unusually fruit driven for the vintage. Atypical of the vintage with a rieness that does not speak of 2014 but beyond that it is a very enjoyable wine.
 
2014 Luigi Baudana Barolo Baudana 13.5%
 
High toned and darkly fruited on the nose with an enticing blend of camphor, real fresh, dark cherry fruit with watermelon overtones, and lots of mint and menthol. In the mouth this is a touch simple perhaps, but otherwise so nice. Compact in the mouth, not tough but reticent, if a touch chewy which is offset by the rich fruit displaying lovely balsamic inner mouth perfumes. The fruit richness fades quickly in the mouth revealing structural length but up front there's really lovely fruit with ripeness and evergreen freshness. Very serralunga on the backend, and slightly tough, still very good, needs some time but should lengthen with age. There's a sense of complete ripeness to the flavors with fine detailing the midpalate before the fruit drop off.
 
2014 Giovanni Viberti Barolo Riserva Bricco delle Viole
 
Finely focused with a core of fruit on the nose showing subtlety with better detail, dark cherry fruit, a touch medicinal, and a faint meatiness, which might be coming from the wood. On entry there’s excellent balance, touch to call this as a 2014 with its lovely depth and transparency, though there's a delicacy here that is one of the characteristic notes of the vintage.  Opens with lots dried floral notes and a hint of smoke top note, this is quite successful; it's a bit of an austere wine but has both good depth on the palate and aromatic intensity. It's youthful but certainly not without immediate appeal, though it does show a hint of heat on the finale.
 
2014 Vietti Castiglione Barolo  13.5%
 
A hint of oak greets the nose followed by classic aromas of cherries in alcohol, rose hips, and detailed white floral top notes.  This has a really fine texture on the palate, clear, taut, and vibrant all driven by the bright acidity of the palate. The palate displays fine depth to the tat red berry fruit, which shows fine nuance and again the great acids leng this good length. Classic with emerging rose aromas on the nose and in the mouth. Very good, and not just in the context of the vintage.
 
89 pts
 
 2014 Bric Cenciurio Barolo 14%
 
Nicely spiced on the nose, gentle, with a touch of salami, dried meat, jerky character laced with lovely wild berry aromas.Aromatically enticing while retaining vintage character. Wild berry fruit shows up early on the palate along with well-managed tannins and good acidity. Fresh, with really good if barely ripe red fruit that has a framing note of citrus pithiness. A lovely wine, gentle, and a touch short and dry on the finale. This should benefit from 2-3 years cellaring, but this is close to ready to go and a fine interpretation of the vintage.
 
2014 Burlotto Barolo 14%
 
There's actually relatively dark fruit here on the nose with accents of spicy herbs, dark cherries in alcohol in a fine and nuanced style with a hint of spice and some fine floral notes. Fine balance in the mouth with fruit that is a touch dilute but based on a core of cherry fruit shaded with mineral notes. Tannins are slightly aggressive through the finish but the finish shows attractive inner. mouth perfumes. The tannins are big but this is well balanced and long and in the end the fruit finishes well, a good candidate for both early consumption mid-term cellaring.
 
2014 Costa di Bussia Barolo Bussia 14%
 
About 50% less,
 
Tight if slightly autumnal on the nose with a bit of a wood imprint along with a bit of gassy herbal notes. At cold cellar temp this reveals a lovely mouthfeel, with a touch of bitterness accenting the mild, dark cherry and pomegranate fruit with an attractively spicy top note. There’s really fine fruit for the vintage here, accented with notes of licorice and a bit of lemon peel. Even tannins are ripe if a bit drier than in the 2013, which lends this a textural difference, though it’s qualitatively not far off the mark. Really quite good.
 
2014 Francesco Rinaldi Barolo Brunate
 
A touch evolved but quite perfumed on the nose with lots of dark fruit aromas, a hint of brownie, and a fair amount of antiseptic herbal and almost tomato leaf quality, Much silkier than the Classico, tannins here are riper, still a touch dry, but in balance with the fruit. Remaining a bit closed, this is not a wine with particular early appeal, but there's a base of dark ripe fruit on the palate that bodes well for the future, and reveals rather complex rose petal and slightly medicinal herb notes. Finishing with some elegance, and here in particular the riper character of the tannins is most evident with a certain incipient tenderness here,. Firm but complete if smaller scaled, unlike most 2014s this requires time.
 
2014 Ettore Germano Barolo Cerretta
 
A bit evolved already though there is a nice dash of dried cherry fruit here on the complex nose that shows good tobacco, and earth aromas that are typical of the site, with a minty top note. Bright in the mouth, well balanced with a liveliness here even if the flavors of bramble and playful spice notes are running a bit ahead of the structural evolution. With good tannins and lovely balance this is about as good as the 2012 on a qualitative scale, with fine ripeness and balance. I like this quite a bit even though I have some doubt about how it will age but it will drink well for several years for sure
 
2014 Guido Porro Barolo Lazzairasco 14%
 
Tank sample, taken out of wood yesterday
 
Here too there's fading wood spice greeting the nose followed by a more fruit forward and simply strawberry jam set of aromatics, more open than the Santa Caterina and a bit softer and in the mouth as well, this delivers a more fruit forward palate impression. Softer than the Santa Catarina with less of a well knit tannic impact. While lightly chewy this is a fine interpretation of the vintage, quite sandalwood inflected on the backend with a tart fruit profile. Really very well balanced but without the elegance of the Santa Caterina, still complete and fine.
 
2014 Le Cecche Barolo 14%
 
Lots of fruit to be found here on the nose, it’s savory but sweet with a smoky top note and a touch of meatiness, showing attractive complexity. Supple enough but not soft, with ripe tannins supporting a core of wild cherry sour cherry fruit that shows off nutty accents and shades of butcher’s wax lending complexity. There's fruit here through the finish, which shows good length. Attractive and complete with a sense of early approachability and the balance to age well in the medium term.
 
2014 Reverdito Bricco Cogni  14.5%
 
A dusty and floral nose with a touch of lemony aroma paired with white soil tones, camphor, and faint backing spices In the mouth this is a touch soft and loose at the moment, though this delivers an attractive array of ripe and well rendered fruit and again spicy, floral tones. There's some sneaky power to the fruit, black yet fresh on the backend and through the finish in particular which is longer than the 2013s. A bit of a sneaky wine with good complexity and fruit.
 
2014 Reverdito Barolo Castagni 14%
 
Tighter, fresher with a similar white soil tone to the Bricco Cogni and hints of carob and really lovely, fresh, red plum. Fleshy yet supple, a lot like the 2013 but in smaller scale. With lovely ripe yet austere tannins, this shows finer detail than the 2013 with perhaps less nuance but the terroir really shows through here on both on the palate and with the nature of the tannins, less fruity perhaps but more detailed spice notes. Fairly ready to go.
 
2014 Bric Cenciurio Barolo Monrobiolo di Bussia 14%
 
All fruit and flowers on the nose,  very subtle but quite complex with smoky base notes and a masculine, slightly woody, vetiver based cologne like attribute. Bright, elegant, transparent on the palate with fine fruit which remains elegant with lovely ripeness to the cough lozenge inflected wild raspberry flavors. Not a big wine but classic Barolo with tannins that are gently austere but important. The fruit is a touch under ripe and light on the palate but sufficient at this point to parry the tannins which are classic limestone driven fine tannins. Elegant yet tannic, this is a strict little charmer.
 
2014 Schiavenza Barolo Cerretta 14%
 
Sweeter, lighter and ore floral on the nose than the Broglio, though very attractive and perfumy if not fruity,. Salted plum fruit greets the mouth. This is more elegant and finer than the Broglio, medicinal but more Smith Brothers than bitter. Broad, gum grabbing yet ripe tannins a nins emerge on the backend, which is less complex if more elegant and supple than the Brogio. Probably ready a bit sooner with a big core of fruit and nice perfumed length.
 
2014 Stroppiana Barolo Bussia 14.5%
 
Earthy and sweet spiced notes greet the nose, which shows off a rather classic array of  wild cherry in alcohol aromas that are just a little gamy. In the mouth this shows fine balance, a step above the other wines in the line-up today with tannins that are firmer but riper. The acids of the vintage keep this so lively and are finely knit with the rounded yet firm tannins. This shows terrific potential for the future.
 
88 pts
 
2014 Barale Barolo Castellero 14%
 
Deeper and a step up in intensity from the base bottling but here too the aromas seem a touch advanced with more floral, stewed plums, and licorice medicinal notes. Much better in the mouth, bright, with ripe tannins that are firm yet with good verticality in the mouth. The fruit sits a touch low in the mouth, but it’s present in a very classic Barolo way. This is already showing orange tones, along with terra cotta and roasted strawberry on the finish. A bit more advanced than I would like to see at this stage. Might recover.
 
2014 Broccardo Barolo  I Tre Pais 14%
 
Pleasant on the nose showing the spicier side of the vintage low not terribly complex, but earthy and perfumed with hints of ose and balsamic herbs emerging with air. Fairly rich in the mouth with nice covering fruit, very cherried fruit, that is well balanced and already fairly easy to drink with more presence in the mouth than on the nose. Really has nice fruit, good acids, supple enough tannins though on the finish where the tannins show a slightly more classical edge to them, altogether this is an excellent 2014 for a restaurant and early consumption.
 
2014 Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Monfalletto 13.5%
 
Smoky, oak is obvious and fairly assertive on the nose lending this a nutty cast. Supple and nicely done on the palate, in a layered, easy going style. There's very attractive red fruit here, it's a touch simple with some light hints of dried grass, earth and rosehips lending dash of complexity to the palate. Clean, fairly taut, with good length on the very focused finish.  
 
2014 Fratelli Alessandria  Barolo 14%
 
15-20% same number of bottles but shifted to this wine
 
Includes San Lorenzo which was not produced, this vintage bottled two months ago
 
Slightly autumnal on the nose with a good base note of licorice, wild plum in alcohol, and rose petals; a very fine and elegant nose if neither particularly intense nor complex. Supple and bright on entry with a distinct touch of nuttiness early on the palate followed by a bright juicy and slightly mineraly, chalky midpalate. Showing a touch of leanness and the tannins have a dry edge to them, it's a solid example of the vintage, honest and transparent though the tannins might be a touch outsized and the fruit is already showing signs of early maturity with some attractive fennel and almost tomato leaf notes on the midpalate. This turns much darker with burnished fruit and dark aromatic wood notes on the backend.  Attractive but clearly marked by the vintage, and pretty firmly structured for the vintage, which is not surprising considering the San Lorenzo is included here.
 
2014 Guido Porro Barolo Rionda 14%
 
Tank sample, taken out of wood yesterday
 
There's a fineness here, a precision on the nose that the other wines of the portfolio don't have. Redolent of women's perfume and mountain air with something vaguely smoky, camp fiery, over a base of small, red berries fruit with a sweet tarragon framing note. Raspberryish on entry, if a touch loosely kit in the mouth, though with tannins are ripe, lending an incipient sweetness.  Lacks the punch of other wines of the portfolio, this has such an elegant mouthfeel and the potential for real finesse. Small scaled and simple through the finish with a slight chalky character, though the tannin is so fine and ripe here. An impressive debut for this wine and certainly worth following. The most feminine Barolo offered here today.
 
2014 Guido Porro Barolo Giannetto 14%
 
There's already an underbrush note here on the nose indicating some early evolution, along with minty and slightly nutty notes with slightly peppery rosehip notes and dried, rose petal undertones. Just a touch liquory on entry, then turning supple and pliant in the mouth with that slightly evolved character of the nose lending complexity to the fruit on the palate;, fruit that is slightly spicy, darkly carob tinged black berry fruit.  Tannins are ripe but plentiful and this shows good depth on the backend, finishing with decent length if a little on the simple side. This feels good, fresh and well balanced but this lacks just a touch of freshness of flavor, while offering a nice earthy note on the finale which shows slightly more freshness of fruit.

2014 Luigi Einaudi  Barolo Terlo Vigna Costa Grimaldi 14%
 
There's a certain prune in alcohol note here that is quite classic along with a spicy, focused minty bouquet of aromas that show fine intensity and detail  A rather rounded, relatively glycerin rich impression greets the palate, actually fairly tight, well focused and complex, with tannins that are as elegant and supple as those found in the base bottling even if they are supported by sIightly more fruit and better acids. It's possibly a better wine with more complexity of the base bottling but lacks the balance of that wine.
 
2014 Massolino Barolo Classico 13 5%
 
Attractive on the nose with fine aromas of ripe wild strawberry and wild cherry fruit with balsamic shadings and nuanced framing notes of fine dusty rose petals. Oh my this is elegant in the mouth, light even though the tannins are a touch dry, but so fine and elegant, it flows effortlessly across the palate with red fruit that might be a bit simple but is lively, pure and fresh. Not a long ager but if I saw this on a list tonight I'd buy it and happily drink it. The finish is a bit uncovered but the flavors are so pure and detailed, lingonberry, slightly under ripe raspberry and dried flowers that it’s a tradeoff worth making.
 
2014 Fratelli Oddero Barolo Classico
 
Wow this is perfumed with sweetness on the nose, which is very direct if perhaps lacking in some complexity, but perfumed, floral and downright fruity. In the mouth as well there is a suggestion of sweetness but the austere character of the vintage is obvious. Lacks a bit of weight, particularly on the backend, which leads to a modest, sandalwood, laced finish, which continues to show some nice if light fruit.  Not terribly tannic but the tannins that are here feel a bit crude.
 
2014 Palladino Barolo Parafada 14.5%
 
Camphor greets the nose followed by hints of green shaded, herbal top notes and carob. Medium light bodied in the mouth but this has a touch of flesh to it with a gentle sweetness, and subtle complexity on the palate. A smaller scaled and slightly lean wine, through the modest finish shows fine strawberry fruit and reveals fine structural balance. This seems like it will age fairly well.
 
2014 Reverdito Barolo Ascheri  14.5%
 
Tight, reticent but again showing fine chalky soil tones layered over a base of spiced, black cherry fruit. Softer than the 2013, and notably simpler in the mouth, though this is a lovely wine but it can't compete with the 2013. There’s less fruit and excitement here, a bit foursquare and a touch more minty and medicinal . Shorter though, but without the vibrancy of the 2013 though the tannins are more rounded and acid softer. Easy going and a wine to drink sooner rather than later.
 
2014 Schiavenza Barolo Broglio 14%
 
A bit nutty on the nose, which lends complexity to the aromas of caraway, lingonberry with some red currant. On entry this is lean a bit, though there is a lovely expression of minerality, base note of terroir anchoring the caraway tinged red fruit. Featuring ripe tannins and good length with a menthol cast too the inner mouth perfumes on the finish. The palate picks up and hints of apple stems and a touch of almost unripe strawberry in the mouth then finishes very medicinally and balsamic. Not super complex but quite savory.
 
2014 Sordo Barolo Perno 14%
 
Fruit that is slightly salty and sandy greets the nose along with dried grassy notes, and small wild woodland berry fruit that are very fine and very precise followed by a late arriving cigar smoke and ash notes lending a final flurry of complexity.  Rather elegant but lacks the tension of the best sites in the portfolio, though it’s an impressive effort for the vintage, fruity, though with a touch of dilution through the midpalate then plenty of juicy acidity and decidedly red fruit on the backend and through the modest finish.   A fine example of the vintage and one well suited for restaurant wine lists and consumption over the next 4-12 years.
 
2014 Tenuta Montanello Barolo 14%
 
A little tight on the nose, with perfumes that are floral and small scaled but fresh and with fruit that at least balances out the wood spice. Very supple in the mouth, really well managed tannins for the vintage, playful and easygoing, though quite simple in fact but without the issues that plague the vintage. There’s a fine core of fruit here that is already accessible, and enough nuance to keep this interesting. Finishing with fine balance of fruit and tannin, while this is not a Barolo for the ages it is a fine Barolo ready to drink and perhaps surprise on the upside after 5 years in the bottle. Eminently drinkable, this too is a great restaurant option.
 
2014 G. D. Vajra  Barolo Albe 13.5%
 
Dried sticks, stems, and earthy aromas greet the nose followed by a more floral perfume and very bright and intense red currant fruit with lots of astringent and antiseptic character.  Oh my, this is so finely textured with real richness though the fruit is a touch matte, but the tannins lends this a feel like a super Langhe Nebbiolo. Really fresh in the mouth with floral and herbal character. The tannins are a bit dry but there's so much sweetness to the fruit here that it remains well balanced, if slightly one dimensional in the mouth. Nothing wrong here, though the fruit does dip on the back end and through the finish.


87 pts
 
2014 Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia 13.5%
 
32k potential, in a usual year 18-19k, bottled 11k
 
Floral with notes of Iris layered over a salty, iodine toned base greets the nose followed by slightly sweet hints of green cardamom and green floral aromas with suggestions of jasmine and powdery grey soil. Fairly rich for the vintage, built as much on fairly prominent acids as on dusty, chalky tannins in a light transparent style that offers moderately intense flavors of tart fruit. A fair amount of green tea early on the palate is followed by some lemon. The moderately ripe and fairly powerful tannins grab the gums, and clip the finish. A fine texture for the vintage and good freshness along with moderately higher than average fruit driven by tons of acid. A little raw at the end of the day, chewy and dry.
 
2014 Cascina Ballarin Barolo Tre Ciabot
 
A bit smokey and ever so slightly autumnal on the nose with a nice spiciness here with fine cherry skin notes. Fresh and lively in the mouth, a bit lean if not ungenerous with decent follow through, which is again spicy on the finish, which shows a lovely hint of fresh fruit. Good juicy length, with lovely hints of rose petal and earth on the finale.
 
2014 San Silvestro Barolo Patres
20% less
 
Pretty nose, a bit evolved but there's the classic rosehips and sandalwood, along with a hint of matchstick from the recent bottling. Sour fruit appears early on the palate, soft, and supple, but juicy, if small scaled. Lovely inner mouth perfumes of roses, small green herbal notes, Rainier cherries and sandalwood are attractive with a hint of meatiness lending some depth. Good length on the finish with watermelon and tree bark flavors, and a hint of metal; this is actually fairly complex, more in the savory end of the spectrum with the tannins are slightly raw but that might be from the recent bottling.  The tannins may be a bit too durable here so I would think this should be drunk earlier rather than later but it's a solid wine.
 
2014 Agostino Bosco Barolo Neirane 14%
 
A very subtle nose with low aromas of underbrush, violets and sweet spice here, gentle but ripe,. A small scaled wine but with a certain measure of richness displaying a lovely mineral drive from early on the palate under ripe, wild berry fruit. Tannins are soft, acids are good, there's some mint and almost medicinal floral distillate on the backend that yields to a more mineral finale. Nothing wrong here, not 100% of the potential of the vineyard but this is a solid offering for the vintage. There’s a slight rawness on the finale, savory, edgy, and long. 87pts (3/18)
 
2014 Brezza  Barolo Sarmassa 13.5%
 
A bit smoky with more richness on the nose than its stable mates and a more overtly fruity character of cherry and rose. Taut with tension in the mouth and while not overtly ripe on the palate this displays a lovely gauze of red fruit with fresh, less evolved notes of herb and rosehips adding complexity. Tannins are finer gained, riper if still leaning toward the dry side, with good juicy length. Tight with good potential for evolution.
 
2014 Cavalier Bartolomeo Barolo Altenasso
 
Old wood aromas lend some complexity to the nose, which already seems to show some age. Fruit is not particularly present on the nose, which shows more of a smoky, herbal quality. Fruity on entry, supple well balanced, and easy going in style.  There is fine fruit here, it's a smaller more rustic interpretation of the 2013, less fruit but more or less classically built.  A bit too savory and a bit too structured for the level of fruit. Chewy, with a good finish and overall nicely done but I’m not sure how well this will age, better to drink this sooner rather than later.
 
2014 Chiara Boschis Pira Barolo Cannubi 14%
 
Here the wood is really assertive in this line up, it's the most elegant yet most reticent nose here. Lean, and a bit raw in the mouth, but also a bit more structural than fruited with the strongest 2014 character of this lineup by a wide margin. The fruit lacks a touch of freshness while the balance is a bit off. It could improve and probably will, but today I have doubts, there are tons of fruit tannins here a well, with some really attractive Cannubi character. I would bet on the producer, but this wines tough, there is a kernel of fruit lurking at the core but it’s trapped in a cage of firm, long lived tannins. Which will win in the long run?
 
2014 Ettore Germano Barolo Classico 14%
 
Very complex if perhaps a bit evolved on the nose but this is showing great aromas of old wood, spicy soil, dried strawberry and cherry. The oak gets slightly intrusive with air but not overly. A touch of sun dried tomato emerges with air, and even a hint of tomato leaf. Lacking some flesh in the mouth, better on the nose, though this is very pleasing in a forest floor, earthy, almost medicinal, classic old school Barolo way. A bit tough, this should age pretty well but I expect it might be most enjoyable for the first 7-8 years of its life.
 
2014 Luigi Einaudi  Barolo 14%
 
Hightoned on the nose, with lots of very red fruit notes over an odd, almost a pineapple basenote, and hints of rose hips and sandalwood lending complexity rendered in a rather lean way,. There's a fair amount of glycerin here lending this suppleness in the mouth. A hint of evolution lends the palate complexity, but it’s also a sign that it might be better to drink sooner rather than later. With sweetness, if not exactly fruitiness, and tannins that are present but nicely ripe, this is a good base bottling with a juicy finish.
 
2014 Luigi Oddero Barolo 14%
 
This smells pretty good but here I think I find a bit of advancement, a touch of an autumnal note, still there's lots to like as this reveals spicy and earthy aromas supporting fine sweet rose petal, rooibos tea, pomegranate and lemon rind aromas.  Opening with a nice mouthfeel, round, though again a touch evolved, with ripe tannins, though the tannins gets a little dry on the finish. Good length though this continues to dry out the palate. It's very nice with classic flavors but the structure is larger than the flavors, tannins really clip the finish. Powerfully built, I hope the fruit will pop with some bottle age.
 
86pts
 
2014 Marziano Abbona Barolo 14.5%
 
Lovely on the nose, which shows cedary, pipe briar, aromas along with notes of sweet baking spice, and a layered and complex candied cough lozenge quality. Fairly rich if a bit more extracted than the fruit warrants but there is fruit here, not at the level of the nose but  it almost covers the structural components. Quite tannic but with good length, there’s a lot to like here but it is quite extracted and structured. Will the fruit outlive the tannins, to be decided?
 
2014 Reverdito Barolo Classico 14%
 
Fragile though not quite tired on the nose with a dark fruit profile, hints of seaweed, and some pencil lead top notes. Fresher in the mouth and more vertical than the 2013, and with surprisingly similar level of ripeness, though decidedly more elegant in the mouth, with tannins that seem riper. The fruit doesn't have the impact of the 2013 but is ripe and rather fresh with flavors of black cherry skin and red plum skin Overall a fresher wine than the 2013, though without the depth of that wine.
 
2014 Schiavenza Barolo Serralunga  14%
 
This is all mineral, medicinal, and floral on the nose with a greenish cast,  and aromas of cardamom that are strong. Moderately rich if still just medium bodied with a really attractive balance of red fruit, minerality and rose petals. Small scaled and approaching maturity, though this still could use a bit of time as it’s still fairly tense. Not fruity with tannins that are assertive, not ready yet but complete, layered and long if savory. 
 
2014 Simone Scaletta  Barolo Bricco San pietro 14.5% chirlet
 
Autumnal on the nose and a bit carobby with lots of wood giving this sweet dark edge to the wine. Round and fairly generous in the mouth, with tannins that are ripe. A different wine than the 2013 but for the vintage this is very well done. The fruit is there, a bit dark, slightly liquory and a bit tobacco and dried tarragon tinged with tannins that are mostly ripe, just a hint of hardness that becomes more apparent on the long finish, that is driven by tobacco, and forest floor flavors. A bit more savory and hard than I would prefer.
 
2014 Sordo Barolo Monvigliero 14%
 
This has more terroir imprint than the 2013 with a touch of black olive early on the nose followed by strawberry, floral, and cool and chalky aromas. Pleasant in the mouth, rather elegant, with tannins that show a fine edge of ripeness. Strawberry fruited with fine-grained tannins that are just a touch dry, and well integrated acids lending juiciness to the moderately long finish. A bit simple with more interest provided by the nose.
 
2014 Sordo Barolo Gabutti 14%
 
Quite ripe on the nose with macerated dark cherry fruit, a little sage, white pepper,  and mace. Aromatically this is quite complex. A bit narrow in the mouth, and while the tannins are fairly ripe, this lack the elegance. A touch clumsy, though with solid fruit that reveals detailed herbal and earthy accent  but the tannins dominate the, modest, chewy and inelegant finish.
 
2014 Giovanni Viberti Barolo Buon Padre 13.8%
 
Quite aromatic with spicy basenotes in a style that is already quite savory and evolved.  Woodsy with hints of carrot tops and slightly medicinal notes married to peppery raised beef aromas. Sweet and quite open on the palate with juicy, soft fine grained tannins supporting dark fruit, which is a touch stewy. Showing decent length, layered, moderately complex, with some dark, almost tarry notes on the backend. Very pleasant, and really quite ready.
 
85
 
2014 Barale Barolo 13.5%
 
Yields down 35 to 40%
 
A touch reticent but subtlety complex with rose petals, violet pastille, black pepper, and slightly medicinal top notes on the nose.  Simple in the mouth flavor wise but this has a nice texture, with tannins that are a touch dry, A nice middle of the road wine, that turns dry, stemmy and savory through the modest finish. A tough wine, tannins outmatch the fruit here, it could develop well but I think the tannins will always be outsized.
 
2014 Brezza  Barolo Cannubi 13.5%
 
 A meaty core of cherry fruit greets the nose followed by elegant and fine floral notes with a hint of carob.  With a touch of flesh and tannins that somewhat supple, it's still a fairly lean wine but with more nuance than the base Barolo. A bit fluid in the mouth, it's definitely more elegant, though not as long perhaps  but at the same time the fruit is redder and riper than the base Barolo. Finishes with a hint of almond.
 
2014 Francesco Rinaldi Barolo
 
Lovely and classic aromas of cherries in alcohol macerated rose petals, and dried citrus rinds grace the nose which really is quite aromatic. There's plenty of glycerin here early on the palate, with nice inner mouth perfumes, more of the macerated cherries in the mouth framed by lovely spice notes. The tannins are a bit dry, and notably dry through the finish, there's a lot to like here but I think that the structure seems to be too tough to age in parallel with the tart, cherry fruit here, though the finish does show nicely nuanced cherry and tree bark spiced flavors. It could surprise on the upside.
 
84pts
 
2014 Roccheviberti Barolo Bricco Boschis 14%
 
First vintage in 2009 replanted
 
Sandy on the nose, which is more direct and effusive than the Rocche, though with a distinct vegetal, wild fennel, sage vein to the aromas of small, red fruit. There's also more flesh here, not as detailed as the Rocche and without that wine’s elegance, this is a bit chunky with modest yet ripe red berry fruit. Tannins are a bit rougher, far less elegant than Rocche, it's a nice wine, a bit too structured for the fruit perhaps though here as well the finish shows pleasant if small and tart red fruit.  I wouldn't bet on this for the future. Short and dry.
 
2014 Sordo Barolo Parussi 14%
 
Floral, sweet and slightly soft on the nose with quite classically Castiglione perfumes that feature hints of carob, herbal tea, and floral top notes. On entry this is a bit soft, lacking the verve and tension of some of the other wines in the lineup.. The crude tannins of Parussi lends this a bit lumpy and chewy feel, though there is some promise for the future. Lots of intensity of flavor and ripeness up front, then this is surprisingly short.
 
2014 Stroppiana Barolo San Giacomo 14%
 
Opening with obvious new wood aromas which are a little distracting, followed by nice briar, tobacco and date aromas. This is pretty well balanced in the mouth showing nice integration, though the wood tannin lends some unneeded weight to the palate. A a bit too dry on the finish, and a touch short but what is here is quite attractive, raw material seem to be good for the vintage. If you are less sensitive to oak influence you might find this more attractive than I do.
 
2014 Stroppiana Barolo Leonardo 14%
 
There's a line of wood on the nose along with spiced cherry aromas. There’s good flesh here wrapped around tannins that are a bit woody. A bit more like a super Nebbiolo: juicy, simple, and with good length, in a  bright style. This is fairly successful with decent flesh, and a nice earthy cast to the fruit, which shows a nice blend of savory and fruity flavors. Nothing really stands out but this is pleasant.
 
83 pts
 
2014 Brezza  Barolo 13.5
 
Reticent on the nose, with aromas of small cherries in alcohol, mint, wild strawberries and sandy soil tones Showing a very slight hint of sweetness on entry, this is open and ready, small scaled but with a good balance of faded fruit and dried rose petals on the palate. A touch savory already with incipient notes of leather and tobacco, good tannins lend this a dusty and dry feel on the finish. Turning a bit nutty on the midpalate with a faint raw tomato nuance, though there’s good length to the faint sour red fruit on the finish.  Seems quite evolved already and without much to it.
 
2014 Cavalier Bartolomeo Barolo San Lorenzo
 
Delicate, cigar box framed notes of old tinged fruit greet the nose.  This has good energy, though without enough of fruit in the mouth to parry the wood here. Juicy, though, there's too much wood tannin here, the fruit of the vintage really struggles to  support it,. Tight dry, and austere, with a long wood tannin driven finish that does show some tart, red berry fruit. Shows some elegance in a rather lithe style if one can get past the tannins.
 
2014 Carlo Revello Barolo 14.5%
 
Simple and moderately intense aromas of crushed amarena cherry and slightly strawberry fruit. Simple if intense in the mouth with some pencil lead notes. Fresh, fruity style in the mouth delivering pleasant red fruit with gentle wood spice accents. Nicely judged tannins, good acis lend good drive to a finish that lacks complexity but is a fine is simple Barolo.
 
2014 Sordo Barolo 13.5%
 
This is savory on the nose with a touch of anchovy, then kind of cocoa dusted and sweet caroby Serralunga like fruit.  Very pleasant on the mouth with an obviously slightly green character to the fruit, which shows white cherry and even a little bit of green peachiness. A simple, moderately easy wine with tannins that have been well managed. Built as much on acid as tannins, transparent, pleasant, if a bit under ripe and crude, it cleanses the palate with modest intensity of flavor.



82 pts
 
2014 Bric Cenciurio Barolo Coste Di Rose 14%
 
Very aromatic, it seems like newer botte might have been used here. Very balsamic at first, which blows off fairly quickly to reveal low fruit and wild herb aromas. There's an added level of richness here texturally in the mouth with tannins that are much more supple than the Monrobiolo. Still a touch dry. Fruit is a touch tart, cranberry like and simple with some attractive inner mouth perfume. Finishing with a significant tannic presence, this this is dry and a bit tough going, slightly chewy but lacking intensity of flavor.
 
2014 Le Ginestra  Barolo Sottocastello di Novello 14%
 
Minty on the nose with aromas of dried herb notes and watermelon rind. Dilute in the mouth, not offensive but there is too little here. Turning very finely textured and savory through the midpalate, this is more complex than one might expect from entry, stony and pleasant though ungenerous. A well balanced, easy going effort that finishes dry and short.


80 pts
 
2014 Bric Cenciurio Pittatore 14%
 
With lots of tobacco and an evolved character to the nose this is very 2014. In the mouth there is slightly more volume, but in a much more rigid style than the Monrobiolo. Tannins here are mostly ripe framing rather lean cherry fruit. Tannins build immediately on the palate, though without much follow, through has certain attractiveness but lacks the joy that the base delivers. Rather mineral and decidedly austere, more aromatic than flavorful, and quite structured. Tough going
 
77 pts
 
2014 Tenute Neirano Barolo 14%
 
Smells like ass, this already is showing too much evolution, nutty earthy and small. Better in the mouth, very ready, supple yet with abundant tannins lending this a certain richness and pleasant mouthfeel. There's very little fruit here, and it’s short and clumsy on the finish.
 
70 pts
 
Carlo Revello 2014 Barolo R G 15%
 
Smells like fruit and sharpening pencils. In the mouth there's plenty of sweetness here but also tart fruit so it's a touch neither here nor there. Supple and rich, certainly with more depth fruit and complexity than the base Barolo but both the wood flavors and more so the wood tannins seem invasive here. There's a lot of acid once again making this a bit of an oddball, lots of drying wood tannin and acid on the finish leave the mouth feeling punished by the structure and the fruit at this point can't compete. The finish is all sucking on a pencil.