Brezza
Brezza tasted at ProWein 2017
15% of 13 Barolo under vino lok closure
2015 Brezza Langhe Nebbiolo 13.5%
Arugula! God I love arugula in Nebbiolo, so fresh, earthy, and complex, a bit soft in the mouth though there is a blend of arugula and fruit that offers lovely complexity and will turn more floral with age. Juicy and with fine grained tannins, though this remains a bit too soft. 86pts
2015 Brezza Dolcetto d’Alba 13%
Since 2010 bottling only this no more Fossati and San Lorenzo
Textbook nose, crude fruit, fresh almond and spicy violet accents. In the mouth this a touch softer than the nose promises, broad and juicy though with very pretty fruit that's light on the palate and on the, a bit abrupt finish. 86pts
2013 Brezza Barbera d’Alba Superiore 13.5%
Has some age on it and shows it on the nose, which is a bit earthy, leathery, and spicy in an old school Barbera way. Light and juicy in the mouth, showing some jammy tones to the wild berry fruit, with acids that are very well integrated. A bit short perhaps, though certainly transparent in a very drinkable, easy going style with a nice hint of complexity helping to add detail and decent length. 86pts
2013 Brezza Barolo Classico 13.5%
Nuanced on the nose, quite floral with a touch of citron peel and a hint of wild fennel framing bright red fruit. Light on the palate, fresh and with mineral laced red fruit on the palate. Tannins are a just a hint dry, tight with rose petals and blood orange on the modest finish. Shows hints of being ready fairly early with spicy polleny notes on the modest finish. 87pts
2012 Brezza Barolo Castellero
Lots of macerated floral notes with cherries and wild strawberries in alcohol grace the nose with a hint of ground coffe. Delicate early on the palate, this shows a pleasant lightness on the palate full of orange fruit, though it lacks a bit of midpalate. Tannins are well managed but emerge on the finish a little uncovered, not dry though a little lean. 87pts
2012 Brezza Barolo Cannubi 14%
A step up in complexity and intensity on the nose which is rich with dried herbs, dry soil, and dry grasses,. Nicely rounded in the mouth with a transparent feel and while this is a bit light on the fruit, it is a gentle and elegant style of wine with lovely tannins that are ripe yet retains an edge of austerity,. Good follow through on the finish, juicy but low keyed. 89pts
2012 Brezza Barolo Sarmassa 14.5%
Here there is obviously more fruit on the nose in a similar burnished red fruit vein, cherries in alcohol with some cardamom spice, and red clay soil notes. Bigger and rounder in the mouth, silky, with better depth on the palate, featuring lots of red cherry and white cherry fruit. Ripe tannins support a mineral laced palate. This turns a touch chewy on the backend, with fruit stopping a bit before the tannins, though there are nice hints of blood orange and spices on the finale. The most complete of these 12s though even here the tannins remain a hint drier than ideal. 90pts
2011 Brezza Barolo Sarmassa Vigna Bricco Riserva 15%
More floral than the 12 with great fruit similar in style, burnished and cherried with more of a plum leaning note all under alcohol topped with white flower and Iris notes. Decidedly bigger in the mouth but retaining a elegance, and finesse, this offers up a lovely bright core of fruit, framed with hints of orange peel, spices, and floral notes. Ripe tannins and present acids lead to a spicy, long finish that holds the alcohol well. This needs some time but is really quite good, classic if smaller scaled. 92pts
15% of 13 Barolo under vino lok closure
2015 Brezza Langhe Nebbiolo 13.5%
Arugula! God I love arugula in Nebbiolo, so fresh, earthy, and complex, a bit soft in the mouth though there is a blend of arugula and fruit that offers lovely complexity and will turn more floral with age. Juicy and with fine grained tannins, though this remains a bit too soft. 86pts
2015 Brezza Dolcetto d’Alba 13%
Since 2010 bottling only this no more Fossati and San Lorenzo
Textbook nose, crude fruit, fresh almond and spicy violet accents. In the mouth this a touch softer than the nose promises, broad and juicy though with very pretty fruit that's light on the palate and on the, a bit abrupt finish. 86pts
2013 Brezza Barbera d’Alba Superiore 13.5%
Has some age on it and shows it on the nose, which is a bit earthy, leathery, and spicy in an old school Barbera way. Light and juicy in the mouth, showing some jammy tones to the wild berry fruit, with acids that are very well integrated. A bit short perhaps, though certainly transparent in a very drinkable, easy going style with a nice hint of complexity helping to add detail and decent length. 86pts
2013 Brezza Barolo Classico 13.5%
Nuanced on the nose, quite floral with a touch of citron peel and a hint of wild fennel framing bright red fruit. Light on the palate, fresh and with mineral laced red fruit on the palate. Tannins are a just a hint dry, tight with rose petals and blood orange on the modest finish. Shows hints of being ready fairly early with spicy polleny notes on the modest finish. 87pts
2012 Brezza Barolo Castellero
Lots of macerated floral notes with cherries and wild strawberries in alcohol grace the nose with a hint of ground coffe. Delicate early on the palate, this shows a pleasant lightness on the palate full of orange fruit, though it lacks a bit of midpalate. Tannins are well managed but emerge on the finish a little uncovered, not dry though a little lean. 87pts
2012 Brezza Barolo Cannubi 14%
A step up in complexity and intensity on the nose which is rich with dried herbs, dry soil, and dry grasses,. Nicely rounded in the mouth with a transparent feel and while this is a bit light on the fruit, it is a gentle and elegant style of wine with lovely tannins that are ripe yet retains an edge of austerity,. Good follow through on the finish, juicy but low keyed. 89pts
2012 Brezza Barolo Sarmassa 14.5%
Here there is obviously more fruit on the nose in a similar burnished red fruit vein, cherries in alcohol with some cardamom spice, and red clay soil notes. Bigger and rounder in the mouth, silky, with better depth on the palate, featuring lots of red cherry and white cherry fruit. Ripe tannins support a mineral laced palate. This turns a touch chewy on the backend, with fruit stopping a bit before the tannins, though there are nice hints of blood orange and spices on the finale. The most complete of these 12s though even here the tannins remain a hint drier than ideal. 90pts
2011 Brezza Barolo Sarmassa Vigna Bricco Riserva 15%
More floral than the 12 with great fruit similar in style, burnished and cherried with more of a plum leaning note all under alcohol topped with white flower and Iris notes. Decidedly bigger in the mouth but retaining a elegance, and finesse, this offers up a lovely bright core of fruit, framed with hints of orange peel, spices, and floral notes. Ripe tannins and present acids lead to a spicy, long finish that holds the alcohol well. This needs some time but is really quite good, classic if smaller scaled. 92pts
Visit May 2008
It was great to meet Enzo Brezza among the clutter of his busy, slightly cramped, almost outdated yet wonderfully working wine cellar where wines continue to age slowly in botte. The newer part of the cellar is on 2 levels with temperature controlled stainless fermentation vessels and an area for malolactic in concrete occupying the first floor while bottle ageing takes place one flight down.
Adjacent to the ageing cellar is the commercial end of the operation and while tasting Enzo was busy dealing with retail customers, large shipments and the daily goings on of the Hotel Barolo and Brezza restaurant above us, in the Brezza family for three generations.
Incidentally at the end of our tasting it was well into the lunch hour and though the restaurant was closed Enzo and his wife invited us to join them for lunch. Sitting on the patio of the restaurant over-looking the village of Barolo we were treated to a classic Piemontese meal. Starting with the finest carne cruda and vitello tonnato then onto excellent plin and tajarin it was one of the finest meals of the trip. I highly recommend a stop for lunch or dinner and the Hotel looks to be an excellent choice for a stay in the area with it’s central location and in-ground pool I can’t think of a better home base for a visit to the region!
But of course we were here for the wine and were able to taste the entire line-up from bottle. Interestingly Enzo presented the Sarmassa from 2003 and 2004 to us blind asking for us to tell him which was which. While I tasted the ’03 first it was not until I tasted the ’04 that I knew for sure which was which.
All the Barolo get years in botti averaging 15 years of age. New botti are treated to a saltwater soak for a month and then are seasoned for 3 or 4 years with Barbera before being used for Nebbiolo. The style here is a balanced one featuring the fresh, fruity qualities of each grape. Though traditionally made these wines offer much early appeal and cellar very well over the mid-term.
2007 Dolcetto Fossati – 88pts
Bottled 10 days earlier
Very high-toned nose with slightly fleshy bitter cherry and a touch of cigarette ash 2
Lithe and elegant in the mouth with sweet fruit and a good tannic bite 2+
Refreshing in the mouth, almost a vinello style with great pure fruit and a bit of arugula floating above 2+
The finishes continues the arugula note over bitter cherry with admirable length 2+
2007 Dolcetto San Lorenzo – 88pts
From the back of the Cannubi hill facing west
More restrained on the nose with a gentle green tobacco tone to the dark fruit 2
Big and lush with soft tannins and a dense feel2
Darker flavors in the mouth with a decidedly woodsy/earth tone to the wild cherry fruit and a touch of sweet tea in the background 2
Finishes with lovely tannins and lots of dark cherry fruit and cherry pit tones ending with emerging tannins 3
2007 Barbera Santa Rosalia – 88pts
From a vineyard between Alba and Diano that is also used for Nebbiolo
Reticent nose of earth, green flowers, and undertone of raspberry jam, turns very floral 2+
Good sweet entry is followed by bright acidity and featherweight tannins. 2+
Very fruity in the mouth with plum and red berry tones, fresh delicious and uncomplicated2+
Finishes a bit short with a gentle cherry fruitiness pulled along by the fruity acidity 2
2006 Barbera Cannubi Muscatel - 87pts
1 year in new botti
Smoke, ash and a woody background note compete with violet and darkly earthy notes on the nose 2+
Weighty in the mouth with soft acidity and a touch of tannin 2+
Plummy flavors have a hard candy edge tot hem with just a touch of drying tannin on the mid-palate 2
Finishes a bit short but refreshing with a touch of mineral bit on the back end and a smoky finale 2
2006 Nebbiolo d’Alba Santa Rosalia – 91pts
9-12 months in botti
Really fresh aromatics are redolent of cherry, herb, and sandy soil with a touch of bitter citrus rind. Develops engaging notes of rust, rosewater and an edge of cedar. 3
Soft and fruity in the mouth with lots of soft tannin, solid acidity and a gentle sweetness 2+
Up front there is a rush of lovely strawberry fruit with a sandy soil background and underlay’s of sweet licorice and green herb 2+
A bit grippy on the finish, which is long and pure with a young, leafy edge and fruit blossom notes, and lingering licorice tones Lovely austerity. 3
2005 Freisa Santa Rosalia
From cork finished bottle – 87pts
The nose offers up tons of dried floral notes with very minerally and earthy notes as well as a bit of balsamic treebark and pink peppercorn tones 2+
Fairly tannic for it’s weight and a touch drying 2
Spicy in the mouth with a distinct mineral bite to the sweet/sour huckleberry/plum fruit 2+
Finishes with a touch of rustic, aggressive tannins but has good spicy notes and even a bit of blueberry on the finale 2
From a vino-lok finished bottle – 89pts
Fresh on the nose with intense floral, almost perfumed soap tones and more intense and clear spice notes of menthol, sassafras and drying hay 2+
Still fairly tannic but a bit fleshier 2
Freshly fruity in the mouth with much better definition to the violet, dark plum, and spicy/mineral iron flavors 3
Finishes with brighter fruit and clean notes of spearmint and dark plum 2+
2003 Barolo Sarmassa – 88pts
Just opened
Cool and low key at first with notes of limestone and leather being joined by increasing florality and an underlying sweetness of fruit that is a bit animal 2+
Slightly aggressive tannins on entry with a lot of power in the mouth though a touch hot and drying 2+
Darkly fruited with strawberry confiture tones and an edge of bitterness that recalls espresso and licorice, slightly medicinal 2+
Soft and easy on the finish with medium length and a bit of pasticcerria going on 2+
2004 Barolo Sarmassa – 91pts
Just opened
Grassy and earth on the nose, reticent with a slatey sort of smokiness and gentle tones of smoldering hay and a menthol top note 2+
Smooth in the mouth with excellent integration, a balanced, seamless feel 3
Fresh fruit tones with good cut added by fresh herbal notes. An array of sweet notes from licorice, to violet, a touch of red apple2+
Very gentle tannins on the ethereal finish with its appealing soil tones and flourishes of menthol and tobacco 3
2003 Barolo Bricco Sarmassa – 88pts
Herbal and savory at first with notes of sassafras and cola over fresh meaty/spicy tones with an anise like freshness then develops a definite confiture of dark fruit aspect with bitter earth in the background 2+
Fresh in the mouth yet a bit soft and the tannins are a touch drying 2
On entry there are dark coffee bean tones followed by dark, almost roasted fruit with dried herb and soil nuances adding complexity 2+
Finishes with fresh mineral accents to the dark, drying fruit notes and a finale of almost molasses/baking spice 2+
2004 Barolo Bricco Sarmassa – 93pts
A big, fruity nose starts out with classic cherry in alcohol notes then a bit of prune plum, freshly cut herbs, salty mineral notes some prosciutto hints and layers of floral and forest floor tones. Great nose 3+
Big and full in the mouth with big, round tannins and very well integrated acidity 3
Slightly bitter on entry then a blast of dark cherry almost confiture of strawberry fruit with an edge of melon rind. Fairly spicy with a touch of espresso crema. 2+
Really muscular finish with a broad and deep quality to the red berried fruit and a lovely bitter cherry pit tone to the finale 3
2003 Barolo Cannubi – 88pts
Bottle opened for 2 days
The nose here is very intense with a layer floral quality very strong on violets then sweet, chinato like tones that recall cola and root beer. 2+
Very fresh in the mouth with ripe tannins and good acidity 2+
Lovely mineral and licorice tinged midpalate has nice strawberry fruit tones and a menthol top note 2+
Finishes long with more menthol tones and shows a touch of heat 2
2004 Barolo Cannubi – 91pts
Bottle open for 1 day
Very clean and pure on the nose with pure rose, slightly foxy red berry fruit and licorice then refreshing mineral/sand/limestone notes. Like walking through sandy soil in a garden after a rain. 3
Elegant in the mouth with a round feel that integrates fine acidity and very ripe tannins 3
The flavors of dark cherry are just a bit fudgy/stewy but with good, refreshing herbal top notes 2+
Finishes with lovely transparency and good grip 2+
It was great to meet Enzo Brezza among the clutter of his busy, slightly cramped, almost outdated yet wonderfully working wine cellar where wines continue to age slowly in botte. The newer part of the cellar is on 2 levels with temperature controlled stainless fermentation vessels and an area for malolactic in concrete occupying the first floor while bottle ageing takes place one flight down.
Adjacent to the ageing cellar is the commercial end of the operation and while tasting Enzo was busy dealing with retail customers, large shipments and the daily goings on of the Hotel Barolo and Brezza restaurant above us, in the Brezza family for three generations.
Incidentally at the end of our tasting it was well into the lunch hour and though the restaurant was closed Enzo and his wife invited us to join them for lunch. Sitting on the patio of the restaurant over-looking the village of Barolo we were treated to a classic Piemontese meal. Starting with the finest carne cruda and vitello tonnato then onto excellent plin and tajarin it was one of the finest meals of the trip. I highly recommend a stop for lunch or dinner and the Hotel looks to be an excellent choice for a stay in the area with it’s central location and in-ground pool I can’t think of a better home base for a visit to the region!
But of course we were here for the wine and were able to taste the entire line-up from bottle. Interestingly Enzo presented the Sarmassa from 2003 and 2004 to us blind asking for us to tell him which was which. While I tasted the ’03 first it was not until I tasted the ’04 that I knew for sure which was which.
All the Barolo get years in botti averaging 15 years of age. New botti are treated to a saltwater soak for a month and then are seasoned for 3 or 4 years with Barbera before being used for Nebbiolo. The style here is a balanced one featuring the fresh, fruity qualities of each grape. Though traditionally made these wines offer much early appeal and cellar very well over the mid-term.
2007 Dolcetto Fossati – 88pts
Bottled 10 days earlier
Very high-toned nose with slightly fleshy bitter cherry and a touch of cigarette ash 2
Lithe and elegant in the mouth with sweet fruit and a good tannic bite 2+
Refreshing in the mouth, almost a vinello style with great pure fruit and a bit of arugula floating above 2+
The finishes continues the arugula note over bitter cherry with admirable length 2+
2007 Dolcetto San Lorenzo – 88pts
From the back of the Cannubi hill facing west
More restrained on the nose with a gentle green tobacco tone to the dark fruit 2
Big and lush with soft tannins and a dense feel2
Darker flavors in the mouth with a decidedly woodsy/earth tone to the wild cherry fruit and a touch of sweet tea in the background 2
Finishes with lovely tannins and lots of dark cherry fruit and cherry pit tones ending with emerging tannins 3
2007 Barbera Santa Rosalia – 88pts
From a vineyard between Alba and Diano that is also used for Nebbiolo
Reticent nose of earth, green flowers, and undertone of raspberry jam, turns very floral 2+
Good sweet entry is followed by bright acidity and featherweight tannins. 2+
Very fruity in the mouth with plum and red berry tones, fresh delicious and uncomplicated2+
Finishes a bit short with a gentle cherry fruitiness pulled along by the fruity acidity 2
2006 Barbera Cannubi Muscatel - 87pts
1 year in new botti
Smoke, ash and a woody background note compete with violet and darkly earthy notes on the nose 2+
Weighty in the mouth with soft acidity and a touch of tannin 2+
Plummy flavors have a hard candy edge tot hem with just a touch of drying tannin on the mid-palate 2
Finishes a bit short but refreshing with a touch of mineral bit on the back end and a smoky finale 2
2006 Nebbiolo d’Alba Santa Rosalia – 91pts
9-12 months in botti
Really fresh aromatics are redolent of cherry, herb, and sandy soil with a touch of bitter citrus rind. Develops engaging notes of rust, rosewater and an edge of cedar. 3
Soft and fruity in the mouth with lots of soft tannin, solid acidity and a gentle sweetness 2+
Up front there is a rush of lovely strawberry fruit with a sandy soil background and underlay’s of sweet licorice and green herb 2+
A bit grippy on the finish, which is long and pure with a young, leafy edge and fruit blossom notes, and lingering licorice tones Lovely austerity. 3
2005 Freisa Santa Rosalia
From cork finished bottle – 87pts
The nose offers up tons of dried floral notes with very minerally and earthy notes as well as a bit of balsamic treebark and pink peppercorn tones 2+
Fairly tannic for it’s weight and a touch drying 2
Spicy in the mouth with a distinct mineral bite to the sweet/sour huckleberry/plum fruit 2+
Finishes with a touch of rustic, aggressive tannins but has good spicy notes and even a bit of blueberry on the finale 2
From a vino-lok finished bottle – 89pts
Fresh on the nose with intense floral, almost perfumed soap tones and more intense and clear spice notes of menthol, sassafras and drying hay 2+
Still fairly tannic but a bit fleshier 2
Freshly fruity in the mouth with much better definition to the violet, dark plum, and spicy/mineral iron flavors 3
Finishes with brighter fruit and clean notes of spearmint and dark plum 2+
2003 Barolo Sarmassa – 88pts
Just opened
Cool and low key at first with notes of limestone and leather being joined by increasing florality and an underlying sweetness of fruit that is a bit animal 2+
Slightly aggressive tannins on entry with a lot of power in the mouth though a touch hot and drying 2+
Darkly fruited with strawberry confiture tones and an edge of bitterness that recalls espresso and licorice, slightly medicinal 2+
Soft and easy on the finish with medium length and a bit of pasticcerria going on 2+
2004 Barolo Sarmassa – 91pts
Just opened
Grassy and earth on the nose, reticent with a slatey sort of smokiness and gentle tones of smoldering hay and a menthol top note 2+
Smooth in the mouth with excellent integration, a balanced, seamless feel 3
Fresh fruit tones with good cut added by fresh herbal notes. An array of sweet notes from licorice, to violet, a touch of red apple2+
Very gentle tannins on the ethereal finish with its appealing soil tones and flourishes of menthol and tobacco 3
2003 Barolo Bricco Sarmassa – 88pts
Herbal and savory at first with notes of sassafras and cola over fresh meaty/spicy tones with an anise like freshness then develops a definite confiture of dark fruit aspect with bitter earth in the background 2+
Fresh in the mouth yet a bit soft and the tannins are a touch drying 2
On entry there are dark coffee bean tones followed by dark, almost roasted fruit with dried herb and soil nuances adding complexity 2+
Finishes with fresh mineral accents to the dark, drying fruit notes and a finale of almost molasses/baking spice 2+
2004 Barolo Bricco Sarmassa – 93pts
A big, fruity nose starts out with classic cherry in alcohol notes then a bit of prune plum, freshly cut herbs, salty mineral notes some prosciutto hints and layers of floral and forest floor tones. Great nose 3+
Big and full in the mouth with big, round tannins and very well integrated acidity 3
Slightly bitter on entry then a blast of dark cherry almost confiture of strawberry fruit with an edge of melon rind. Fairly spicy with a touch of espresso crema. 2+
Really muscular finish with a broad and deep quality to the red berried fruit and a lovely bitter cherry pit tone to the finale 3
2003 Barolo Cannubi – 88pts
Bottle opened for 2 days
The nose here is very intense with a layer floral quality very strong on violets then sweet, chinato like tones that recall cola and root beer. 2+
Very fresh in the mouth with ripe tannins and good acidity 2+
Lovely mineral and licorice tinged midpalate has nice strawberry fruit tones and a menthol top note 2+
Finishes long with more menthol tones and shows a touch of heat 2
2004 Barolo Cannubi – 91pts
Bottle open for 1 day
Very clean and pure on the nose with pure rose, slightly foxy red berry fruit and licorice then refreshing mineral/sand/limestone notes. Like walking through sandy soil in a garden after a rain. 3
Elegant in the mouth with a round feel that integrates fine acidity and very ripe tannins 3
The flavors of dark cherry are just a bit fudgy/stewy but with good, refreshing herbal top notes 2+
Finishes with lovely transparency and good grip 2+