2016 Barolo Values: Part 2
Today I’m adding another flight to my search for value amongst the 2016 Barolo that are widely distributed. Following up briefly on my first post, I have been asked what my favorite crus are for each of the 8 star producers I suggested consumers follow in that prior post. In no particular order:
Brovia: Rocche di Castiglione, elegance, precision, and my favorite vineyard.
Elvio Cogno: Ravera, the qpr is great and this is the quintessential representation of this now iconic vineyard.
Fratelli Alessandria: San Lorenzo, focus, complexity, tension in a wine no one’s paying attention to
Massolino: Vigna Rionda, but under $100 Magheria and Parafada switch positions vintage to vintage,
Oddero: Vigna Rionda and Brunate, but under $100 Villero, great qpr and one of the top interpretations of the cru.
Vajra: I am partial to Bricco delle Viole’s elegance, perfume, and feminine nature. I think it’s the iconic Vajra wine.
Baudana: Baudana, it’s classic Serralunga, powerful, savory, chewy.
Pira of Chaira Boschis: Cannubi, the perfect raw material for Chaira’s style, though above my $100 threshold these days. I still bought a little!
Elio Grasso: Like Massolino, the two crus switch top billing depending on vintage conditions.
And to address another question asked, the next tier of top value producers I buy includes:
Beppi Colla
Alberto Burzi
Claudio Boggione
Cascina Fontana
Giulia Negri
Sergio Molino
Trediberri
Ettore Germano
Giovanni Rosso
Francesco Rinaldi
Ferdinando Principiano
Giacomo Fenocchio
Roccheviberti
Caligiero
Pecchenino
Having shared all this I do want to point out that I think too much attention these days is being focused on the bottled crus of Barolo. Which is not to say that these wines don’t, in many cases, represent the pinnacle of Barolo production, but it is to say that they do tend to diminish the luster of what we have come to call Barolo Classico. A wine whose time perhaps has come, and gone.
There are plenty of terrific Barolo Classicos out there, but to a degree these wines have been demoted to second class status, and the blame there is squarely on the shoulders of the producers who have focused so much of the efforts and marketing on crus that Classicos seem to be an afterthought. Of course, that is not the whole story, and in many cases, though admittedly fewer and fewer each passing vintage, the Classico is the most important wine in a producer's portfolio. As the less expensive offering in a Barolo portfolio it serves as the entry point for a new consumer to discover the quality and style of each producer. Let’s face it, we are among the affluent cognoscenti. For the vast majority of people even $50 is an absurd sum to spend on a bottle of wine, but a $30 Barolo, expensive but attainable, can provide the joyful experience of Barolo to that broad audience. After all, everybody deserves a delicious Barolo once in a while.
In light of this, this next thought is decidedly disingenuous, but here goes. I think Classico is a category of Barolo that producers should do away with. They should keep the bottles in their cellars for a few additional years and label them as Riservas! Barolo is best with a few years of cellar age, and this proposal would allow producers to earn a bit more per bottle while offering consumers a wine at a more attractive stage of its development, all while creating a more cohesive, understandable, and prestigious category for Barolo.
I know there is certainly pleasure to be had in popping a young bottle of Barolo, but is it any greater than a great Langhe Nebbiolo or comparably priced Barbaresco? I would say not, and while I suggest doing away with Barolo Classico, we all know that many producers simply would, or could not do so. This reduced pool of Barolo Classico would better represent what seems to be it’s current reputation: lesser wines for immediate or near term consumption.
Barolo Riserva. What’s not to like?
And while I have you fired up, let me also say that the classical style of Barolo, produced from a variety of vineyards, has suffered from the same ridiculous assault of hyperbole that all wines seem to surfer from these days. Yes, if you are lucky your parcels compliment each other, and the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. If you’re lucky.
However, the notion that some farmer in the past would have opted for this style of production for qualitative reasons is beyond ludicrous. Perhaps they would have opted for a variety of parcels to ensure quantity and protect against issues like hail or frost, but no contadino was thinking that it would have been a great idea to spend an extra hour or two on the ox-cart to go work in a neighboring town in order to make a better Barolo,which he then sold for less than his Dolcetto. These patchwork holdings were generally a result of matrimony, and almost every contadino would have gladly traded his patchwork for a single block of vineyard right in his backyard. Saying otherwise is to deny the harsh reality that these Piedmontese lived until the very recent past.
I know, we like to romanticize everything and then I show up like fingernails on a chalkboard! But, at least I like Barolo. Well some Barolo anyway. Like a few of these!
Flight 2
I would buy: Mario Marengo, Mauro Veglio, Ellena Giuseppe, Bovio
I would drink: Mauro Molino, Marcarini
I might drink: Paolo Conterno, Fratelli Seghesio
Eh: Silvio Grasso, Parusso, Fratelli Revello
2016 Paolo Conterno Barolo Riva del Bric 15% $42 87pts $46
Initial impression: Leathery, dried spices, earthy, and with braised meatiness and herbs on the nose, along with a hint of mint and damp, sandy soil tones. Almost supple in the mouth, certainly sleek and seamless, quite elegant for such a rich wine. The alcohol is noticeable on the tongue, short finish. A bit dense on the tongue, some buried dark cherry fruit, plenty of soil and mineral supporting austerity,. Quite an age worthy style but no idea if the fruit will outlast the tannins here. Not that it’s terribly tannic, but the tannins are dry, and it is Nebbiolo afterall. Focused, Almost lean in its austerity, but with excellent balance. 86-87
With food: Sweet fruit, plenty of alcohol, well structured, a bit short. 87-88
Day 2: Quite earthy and almost dirty on the nose. Certainly shows a lot of evolution overnight. More closed in the mouth, not revealing much, but vigorous swishing in the mouth does reveal a fine blend of slightly vegetal, red fruit, and mineral aromas. Tight and unforgiving. 85pts
2016 Silvio Grasso Barolo 14.5% 84pts $30
Initial impressions; Starts off a little hot on the nose, High toned, floral, chalky, but hot with some incipient forest floor notes and a slightly scorched, hot rock aspect to the aromatics. Very vertical in the mouth, juicy, transparent, a light lashing of oak lends a subtle spiciness, but this is alcoholic and it shows right through the palate and lingers on the modest finish. Fairly pleasant with lovely red, wild berry, lingonberry fruit that yields to more of a sandalwood note on the backend, and some lovely red floral notes on the almost citrussy, though again slightly hot finish. Tons of potential if the heat integrates. Tannins are quite ripe and fine grained. 85-87
With food: Hot, lean, very hot, nothing really here. 78-80
Day 2: Floral, licorice, and alcohol aromas dominate the nose with just a hint of pomegranate. Smooth, supple, attractive for that character, but at the same time this is austere, dry, slightly alcoholic and a bit rough in the mouth. Very youthful with black berry fruit and and a slight herbal note on the palate followed by a very long, very dry, wood tannic finish. This Seems like it’s trying to get there but just comes off as a bit overdone. 83-84
2016 Parusso Barolo 14.5% 82pts $42
Initial impressions: Dark on the nose with layered note of dried fruits, tobacco leaf, and lightly charred wood with candied baking spice accents. Smooth and rich in the mouth, carrying plenty of dark, rich if anonymous fruit along with a moderate load of wood tannin. Feels a bit extracted and tannins are a touch raw, clipping the finish. Lots of red fruit emerges on the nose with a subtle green citrus/herbal accent. Chewy, a bit monolithic, and just too tannic on the finish, which shows just a touch of excessive alcohol. 83-85
With food: Smooth, fruity, but bitter, a bit hot 82-84
Day 2: Alcohol, cherries in alcohol, and alcohol on the nose. There are also attractive floral notes and some braised meat/herbal accents but this is hot. Very dry across the palate, austere and packed with tannins, lots of clay soil tones lurking under the tannins, not a whole lot of fruit, very short, dry, and tough. Might improve but there's not a lot to offer hope here. 80-81
2016 Mauro Molino Barolo 14.5% 86pts $30
Initial impressions: Sweet, sour, and latex come together on the nose. Hints of vanilla and coffee lend some complexity but this is rather overtly fruit driven on the nose. Fruit forward in the mouth as well, and quite pleasant for what it is . There’s a rich, deep pool of Nebbiolo fruit to be found here, well managed tannins, decent acids, not much of a finish but some pleasant mineral notes and that embing wave of fruit sweetness has its appeal. Very smooth, a bit round and almost lush, but the alcohol is well integrated and this is friendly without being facile, but I do think this feels like the fruit will disappear well before the well covered tannins 86-88
With food: Red fruit, a bit spicy, pink peppercorn, a bit ungenerous and showing some heat. 83-85
Day 2: Black berry fruit, slate and menthol are obvious on the nose with more subtle dried fruit aromas emerging with air. Almost a little sweet on entry, then this shows a fairly lively character with an interesting array of slightly vegetal/medicinal tinged black berry fruit flavors. Tannins are a bit over done, though well balanced by acids. A nice wine, a bit short on the finish but with enough Nebbiolo character to scratch the Barolo itch in a modern leaning style. 86-88
2016 Mauro Veglio Barolo 14.5% 91pts $36
Initial impressions: Opens with an initial burst of earth, herb, and leather, followed by some gentle spice notes and hints of candied red fruits, all covered with a touch of older wood. Very soft on entry, rich, suave, elegant, it lacks a bit of detail on the palate but combines good levels of acidity and ripe tannins with dark fruit flavors that are far from ponderous. Shows a touch of heat on the elegant, delicate finish. Great fruit slowly emerging here, grapy and rich with wild cherry nuance. There's some tension here as well, its tannic but the tannins are ripe and feel appropriate. Not exactly my style but this is pretty good. Great steak wine. 88-91
With food: Rich, well balanced, palate cleansing, nice intensity of flavors marries well with food. 88-90
Day 2: Mint, dark cherry and chalk come together on the nose, which shows a certain severity to it. An intriguing combination of power and elegance on entry, followed by dark cherry, herb, and slightly nutty flavors. The tannins are firm and dry but with plenty of covering material and the flavors power past the tannins on the long well balanced finish. It’s Barolo, but just a bit anonymous perhaps, by the same token it’s delicious and intriguing and the finish is so promising with all that cherry and mint. Give this some time, maybe 3-5 years, and I expect you will be handsomely rewarded. 90-92
2016 Fratelli Seghesio Barolo 14.5% 85pts $40
Initial impressions: Modesty aromatic, pleasant but low keyed with aromas of preserved red berries, a touch of spice, and a suggestion of buttered toast. Supple, a bit chunky in the mouth with modest red fruit, a nice candied citrus accent note and tannins that pull this down across the palate. Comes off as a bit heavy and dull, notwithstanding the freshness of the tart cherry flavors. Not much on the back end, finishes quickly and cleanly. Four square. 85-86
With food: pretty plush up front, then a bit angular on the backend, lean ungracious 84-85
Day 2: Strikingly minty nose with aromas lifted by alcohol, Smooth, lots of red fruit early on the palate followed by some strong minty, balsamic character. The tannins are a bit crude but this has something to say, although perhaps inelegantly. Lots of cherry fruit with a cough drop like aspect to it, then a modest, dry, earthy finish that is long if not terribly appealing. This might improve but the tannins seem a touch outsized . Pleasant 85-86
2016 Fratelli Revello Barolo 15% 83pts $36
Initial impressions: A bit flat on the nose, heavy dark, not leathery but very ripe with dried fig and cocoa aromas coming to the fore, layered over earth and herb supporting notes. Smooth, rich, a bit flat across the palate, and quite ripe. The alcohol peeks out just a bit, but this is dark and monolithic, liquory even in the mouth with some spice on the backend then a tannic, extracted, modestly hot and modestly long finish. Clumsy 83-84
With food: Powerful, rich and intense in the mouth, though also a touch hot and short 86-87
Day 2: Quite unforgiving on the nose with hints of menthol, black fruit, and tar. Smooth though tight in the mouth. There's a lot of power here but almost no detail. Chewy, dark, and short with extracted tannins on the moderately long finish where some blackberries and earthy underbrush show up along with a touch of alcoholic heat. Might improve but my gut says this doesn’t have the balance. It’s a little bitter on the backend recalling cough syrup. 80-82
2016 Ellena Giuseppe Barolo del Comune di la Morra 14.5% 91pts $34
Initial impressions: High toned and savory on the nose with layers of underbrush, smoke, earth, and stone aromas supporting gentle but transparent red berry fruit. Ripe but light on the tongue, this is lively, juicy, playful even with very pretty if light cherry fruit, famed very well by the savory earthy character suggested by the nose. Tannins are present, rather vertical in the mouth, fresh and attractive, and pretty well balanced by fine acidity that allows this to fade gently and juicily across the long finish. A lovely, fine, elegant and detailed bottle of Barolo with just a whisper of excessive alcohol. 89-91
With food: sweet, dried fruit, bight, vivid and really a fine contrast to the food, good length 88-90
Day 2: Almost smells like honeycomb, spent candle, then freshly cut prosciutto before adding more typical pressed flower, sandalwood, hint of dried orange peel, and salumi aromas along with a hint of cherry. Smooth, moderately rich, juicy, playful with an array of gently burnished flavors recalling candlewax, cherry, and lardo. Just a great balance of slightly wiry but well managed tannins, juicy acidity, and long, layered flavors This is easily drinkable today and can age 5-10 years, but for now I would say this is a terrific taste of the 2016 vintage, and/or restaurant wine. Lovely 90-91
2016 Bovio Barolo 14% 89pts $40
Initial impressions: Wow, this is very fruity, just a bowl of raspberries and cherries on the nose with a hint of old wood lending some contrast and slow to emerge notes of menthol tempering some of the candied character and overt fruitiness. Smooth, supple, and polished with a lovely midpalate, that shows easy accessibility. It's got sufficient tannins for aging, with acidity that lends some juiciness, particularly notable on the moderately long finish, but this is on the verge of already drinking well. It’s not complex, but shows lovely fruit character, fresh, complex, and almost bold. A real crowd pleaser if there is such a thing with young Barolo, but not lacking any other aspect that a young Baolo should have. Tannins really build quite quickly. Lacks just a touch of intensity. 88-89
With food:A dash of fruit up front, a note of pepperines on the finish, but through the midpalate pretty traditional dried fruit and tobacco flavors. Clean, a little angular, but a fine food wine. 88-89
Day 2: Dried fruit, leather, butcher’s wax, and sme hibiscus show restraint across the modest yet attractive nose. Rounded on entry, well balanced, almost silky, at least headed in that direction with juicy acidity highlighting the red cherry and orchard fruit flavors. A modest wine that turns austere on the finish while not losing it’s modest carriage of fruit, and retaining a lovely inner mouth perfume driven complexity. Long finish shows some roasted chestnut and a hint of vanilla on the finale. It’s lovely, graceful, little wine with all the characteristics of Barolo conveyed with a gentle voice. 89-91
2016 Marcarini Barolo del Comune di La Morra 14% 87pts $47
Initial impressions: Notably complex on the nose with aromas of dried citrus peel, old worn wood, peach, and red berries, and even some cedar competing for one’s attention. Smells terrific, but the wood aspect is a bit aggressive within the paradigm of Marcarini Barolo. Elegant, rather fine and fairly juicy with a spring to its step as it crosses the palate. Another wine that lacks a touch of intensity perhaps but makes up for it with a liveliness in the mouth, and a pleasant layered quality to the red berry, underbrush, and slightly herbal flavors. Here we have a notably different story on the finish, where the flavors sublimate as they gently drift off. The wood influence on the nose gains a bit of intensity with air and the wood tannins gain the upper hand on the finish. 87-89
With food: Smooth but a bit angular, not coarse but slightly rustic 86-88
Day 2:Quite aromatic, though showing more evolution than I would like at this stage. Having said that it does makes this more rewarding right now but plants doubts for the future. Dried fruit, dried herbs, leather and white soil tones grace the nose. Lively in the mouth and a rather unique example of 2016, not having the overt ripeness and accompanying alcohol. In the mouth this also shows as fairly advanced, lovely to drink with its dried fruit, earthy, almost leathery palate impression which shows some carob on the backend before gaining a bit of red forest fruit. Pleasant and a solid choice for drinking now and over the near term. 87-88
2016 Mario Marengo Barolo 14% 91pts $45
Initial impressions: Moderately oaky, not vulgar, but it is the first thing one notices here, though the red fruit, stone, and floral aromas that emerge parry the wood well enough. Smooth, polished, and fairly rich in the mouth with attractively pure and intense menthol wrapped balsamic Nebbiolo fruit. The base wine here is terrific. I am of the opinion that the wood did it no favors, but it is intense enough and pure enough to emerge victorious at the moment. Gains a touch of mushroom on the nose, then that pure and intense fruit coats the palate, though well balanced by supporting acids, and ripe integrated tannins. Finishes with lots of fruit tannins, good length, balance, tension and energy. A very attractive value here. Needs a few years to integrate but this is going to be lovely. Has a sneaky return on the finish, floral, blue fruits, and a touch of limestone. 90-92
With food: Very aromatic but the food does cover the flavors and clips the finish here. Wrong food perhaps yet this remains attractive 88-90
Day 2: There’s a little cedar here sort of showing up on the edges but the nose is anchored by a lovely fresh red berry fruitiness and some cardamom spice notes. Good intensity, lovely aromatic integration. Sweetly fruity on entry if showing a slightly dried character to the red berry flavors. Lively, well measured tannins, are balanced by integrated but juicy acidity. This is really lovely, long, aromatic, pure and vibrant. It of course lacks some intensity compared to the top wine, but a fabulous Classico and one that you can drink soon or age. Does show just a bit of heat on the finish, but that’s the vintage. Needs brasato. 90-91
Brovia: Rocche di Castiglione, elegance, precision, and my favorite vineyard.
Elvio Cogno: Ravera, the qpr is great and this is the quintessential representation of this now iconic vineyard.
Fratelli Alessandria: San Lorenzo, focus, complexity, tension in a wine no one’s paying attention to
Massolino: Vigna Rionda, but under $100 Magheria and Parafada switch positions vintage to vintage,
Oddero: Vigna Rionda and Brunate, but under $100 Villero, great qpr and one of the top interpretations of the cru.
Vajra: I am partial to Bricco delle Viole’s elegance, perfume, and feminine nature. I think it’s the iconic Vajra wine.
Baudana: Baudana, it’s classic Serralunga, powerful, savory, chewy.
Pira of Chaira Boschis: Cannubi, the perfect raw material for Chaira’s style, though above my $100 threshold these days. I still bought a little!
Elio Grasso: Like Massolino, the two crus switch top billing depending on vintage conditions.
And to address another question asked, the next tier of top value producers I buy includes:
Beppi Colla
Alberto Burzi
Claudio Boggione
Cascina Fontana
Giulia Negri
Sergio Molino
Trediberri
Ettore Germano
Giovanni Rosso
Francesco Rinaldi
Ferdinando Principiano
Giacomo Fenocchio
Roccheviberti
Caligiero
Pecchenino
Having shared all this I do want to point out that I think too much attention these days is being focused on the bottled crus of Barolo. Which is not to say that these wines don’t, in many cases, represent the pinnacle of Barolo production, but it is to say that they do tend to diminish the luster of what we have come to call Barolo Classico. A wine whose time perhaps has come, and gone.
There are plenty of terrific Barolo Classicos out there, but to a degree these wines have been demoted to second class status, and the blame there is squarely on the shoulders of the producers who have focused so much of the efforts and marketing on crus that Classicos seem to be an afterthought. Of course, that is not the whole story, and in many cases, though admittedly fewer and fewer each passing vintage, the Classico is the most important wine in a producer's portfolio. As the less expensive offering in a Barolo portfolio it serves as the entry point for a new consumer to discover the quality and style of each producer. Let’s face it, we are among the affluent cognoscenti. For the vast majority of people even $50 is an absurd sum to spend on a bottle of wine, but a $30 Barolo, expensive but attainable, can provide the joyful experience of Barolo to that broad audience. After all, everybody deserves a delicious Barolo once in a while.
In light of this, this next thought is decidedly disingenuous, but here goes. I think Classico is a category of Barolo that producers should do away with. They should keep the bottles in their cellars for a few additional years and label them as Riservas! Barolo is best with a few years of cellar age, and this proposal would allow producers to earn a bit more per bottle while offering consumers a wine at a more attractive stage of its development, all while creating a more cohesive, understandable, and prestigious category for Barolo.
I know there is certainly pleasure to be had in popping a young bottle of Barolo, but is it any greater than a great Langhe Nebbiolo or comparably priced Barbaresco? I would say not, and while I suggest doing away with Barolo Classico, we all know that many producers simply would, or could not do so. This reduced pool of Barolo Classico would better represent what seems to be it’s current reputation: lesser wines for immediate or near term consumption.
Barolo Riserva. What’s not to like?
And while I have you fired up, let me also say that the classical style of Barolo, produced from a variety of vineyards, has suffered from the same ridiculous assault of hyperbole that all wines seem to surfer from these days. Yes, if you are lucky your parcels compliment each other, and the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. If you’re lucky.
However, the notion that some farmer in the past would have opted for this style of production for qualitative reasons is beyond ludicrous. Perhaps they would have opted for a variety of parcels to ensure quantity and protect against issues like hail or frost, but no contadino was thinking that it would have been a great idea to spend an extra hour or two on the ox-cart to go work in a neighboring town in order to make a better Barolo,which he then sold for less than his Dolcetto. These patchwork holdings were generally a result of matrimony, and almost every contadino would have gladly traded his patchwork for a single block of vineyard right in his backyard. Saying otherwise is to deny the harsh reality that these Piedmontese lived until the very recent past.
I know, we like to romanticize everything and then I show up like fingernails on a chalkboard! But, at least I like Barolo. Well some Barolo anyway. Like a few of these!
Flight 2
I would buy: Mario Marengo, Mauro Veglio, Ellena Giuseppe, Bovio
I would drink: Mauro Molino, Marcarini
I might drink: Paolo Conterno, Fratelli Seghesio
Eh: Silvio Grasso, Parusso, Fratelli Revello
2016 Paolo Conterno Barolo Riva del Bric 15% $42 87pts $46
Initial impression: Leathery, dried spices, earthy, and with braised meatiness and herbs on the nose, along with a hint of mint and damp, sandy soil tones. Almost supple in the mouth, certainly sleek and seamless, quite elegant for such a rich wine. The alcohol is noticeable on the tongue, short finish. A bit dense on the tongue, some buried dark cherry fruit, plenty of soil and mineral supporting austerity,. Quite an age worthy style but no idea if the fruit will outlast the tannins here. Not that it’s terribly tannic, but the tannins are dry, and it is Nebbiolo afterall. Focused, Almost lean in its austerity, but with excellent balance. 86-87
With food: Sweet fruit, plenty of alcohol, well structured, a bit short. 87-88
Day 2: Quite earthy and almost dirty on the nose. Certainly shows a lot of evolution overnight. More closed in the mouth, not revealing much, but vigorous swishing in the mouth does reveal a fine blend of slightly vegetal, red fruit, and mineral aromas. Tight and unforgiving. 85pts
2016 Silvio Grasso Barolo 14.5% 84pts $30
Initial impressions; Starts off a little hot on the nose, High toned, floral, chalky, but hot with some incipient forest floor notes and a slightly scorched, hot rock aspect to the aromatics. Very vertical in the mouth, juicy, transparent, a light lashing of oak lends a subtle spiciness, but this is alcoholic and it shows right through the palate and lingers on the modest finish. Fairly pleasant with lovely red, wild berry, lingonberry fruit that yields to more of a sandalwood note on the backend, and some lovely red floral notes on the almost citrussy, though again slightly hot finish. Tons of potential if the heat integrates. Tannins are quite ripe and fine grained. 85-87
With food: Hot, lean, very hot, nothing really here. 78-80
Day 2: Floral, licorice, and alcohol aromas dominate the nose with just a hint of pomegranate. Smooth, supple, attractive for that character, but at the same time this is austere, dry, slightly alcoholic and a bit rough in the mouth. Very youthful with black berry fruit and and a slight herbal note on the palate followed by a very long, very dry, wood tannic finish. This Seems like it’s trying to get there but just comes off as a bit overdone. 83-84
2016 Parusso Barolo 14.5% 82pts $42
Initial impressions: Dark on the nose with layered note of dried fruits, tobacco leaf, and lightly charred wood with candied baking spice accents. Smooth and rich in the mouth, carrying plenty of dark, rich if anonymous fruit along with a moderate load of wood tannin. Feels a bit extracted and tannins are a touch raw, clipping the finish. Lots of red fruit emerges on the nose with a subtle green citrus/herbal accent. Chewy, a bit monolithic, and just too tannic on the finish, which shows just a touch of excessive alcohol. 83-85
With food: Smooth, fruity, but bitter, a bit hot 82-84
Day 2: Alcohol, cherries in alcohol, and alcohol on the nose. There are also attractive floral notes and some braised meat/herbal accents but this is hot. Very dry across the palate, austere and packed with tannins, lots of clay soil tones lurking under the tannins, not a whole lot of fruit, very short, dry, and tough. Might improve but there's not a lot to offer hope here. 80-81
2016 Mauro Molino Barolo 14.5% 86pts $30
Initial impressions: Sweet, sour, and latex come together on the nose. Hints of vanilla and coffee lend some complexity but this is rather overtly fruit driven on the nose. Fruit forward in the mouth as well, and quite pleasant for what it is . There’s a rich, deep pool of Nebbiolo fruit to be found here, well managed tannins, decent acids, not much of a finish but some pleasant mineral notes and that embing wave of fruit sweetness has its appeal. Very smooth, a bit round and almost lush, but the alcohol is well integrated and this is friendly without being facile, but I do think this feels like the fruit will disappear well before the well covered tannins 86-88
With food: Red fruit, a bit spicy, pink peppercorn, a bit ungenerous and showing some heat. 83-85
Day 2: Black berry fruit, slate and menthol are obvious on the nose with more subtle dried fruit aromas emerging with air. Almost a little sweet on entry, then this shows a fairly lively character with an interesting array of slightly vegetal/medicinal tinged black berry fruit flavors. Tannins are a bit over done, though well balanced by acids. A nice wine, a bit short on the finish but with enough Nebbiolo character to scratch the Barolo itch in a modern leaning style. 86-88
2016 Mauro Veglio Barolo 14.5% 91pts $36
Initial impressions: Opens with an initial burst of earth, herb, and leather, followed by some gentle spice notes and hints of candied red fruits, all covered with a touch of older wood. Very soft on entry, rich, suave, elegant, it lacks a bit of detail on the palate but combines good levels of acidity and ripe tannins with dark fruit flavors that are far from ponderous. Shows a touch of heat on the elegant, delicate finish. Great fruit slowly emerging here, grapy and rich with wild cherry nuance. There's some tension here as well, its tannic but the tannins are ripe and feel appropriate. Not exactly my style but this is pretty good. Great steak wine. 88-91
With food: Rich, well balanced, palate cleansing, nice intensity of flavors marries well with food. 88-90
Day 2: Mint, dark cherry and chalk come together on the nose, which shows a certain severity to it. An intriguing combination of power and elegance on entry, followed by dark cherry, herb, and slightly nutty flavors. The tannins are firm and dry but with plenty of covering material and the flavors power past the tannins on the long well balanced finish. It’s Barolo, but just a bit anonymous perhaps, by the same token it’s delicious and intriguing and the finish is so promising with all that cherry and mint. Give this some time, maybe 3-5 years, and I expect you will be handsomely rewarded. 90-92
2016 Fratelli Seghesio Barolo 14.5% 85pts $40
Initial impressions: Modesty aromatic, pleasant but low keyed with aromas of preserved red berries, a touch of spice, and a suggestion of buttered toast. Supple, a bit chunky in the mouth with modest red fruit, a nice candied citrus accent note and tannins that pull this down across the palate. Comes off as a bit heavy and dull, notwithstanding the freshness of the tart cherry flavors. Not much on the back end, finishes quickly and cleanly. Four square. 85-86
With food: pretty plush up front, then a bit angular on the backend, lean ungracious 84-85
Day 2: Strikingly minty nose with aromas lifted by alcohol, Smooth, lots of red fruit early on the palate followed by some strong minty, balsamic character. The tannins are a bit crude but this has something to say, although perhaps inelegantly. Lots of cherry fruit with a cough drop like aspect to it, then a modest, dry, earthy finish that is long if not terribly appealing. This might improve but the tannins seem a touch outsized . Pleasant 85-86
2016 Fratelli Revello Barolo 15% 83pts $36
Initial impressions: A bit flat on the nose, heavy dark, not leathery but very ripe with dried fig and cocoa aromas coming to the fore, layered over earth and herb supporting notes. Smooth, rich, a bit flat across the palate, and quite ripe. The alcohol peeks out just a bit, but this is dark and monolithic, liquory even in the mouth with some spice on the backend then a tannic, extracted, modestly hot and modestly long finish. Clumsy 83-84
With food: Powerful, rich and intense in the mouth, though also a touch hot and short 86-87
Day 2: Quite unforgiving on the nose with hints of menthol, black fruit, and tar. Smooth though tight in the mouth. There's a lot of power here but almost no detail. Chewy, dark, and short with extracted tannins on the moderately long finish where some blackberries and earthy underbrush show up along with a touch of alcoholic heat. Might improve but my gut says this doesn’t have the balance. It’s a little bitter on the backend recalling cough syrup. 80-82
2016 Ellena Giuseppe Barolo del Comune di la Morra 14.5% 91pts $34
Initial impressions: High toned and savory on the nose with layers of underbrush, smoke, earth, and stone aromas supporting gentle but transparent red berry fruit. Ripe but light on the tongue, this is lively, juicy, playful even with very pretty if light cherry fruit, famed very well by the savory earthy character suggested by the nose. Tannins are present, rather vertical in the mouth, fresh and attractive, and pretty well balanced by fine acidity that allows this to fade gently and juicily across the long finish. A lovely, fine, elegant and detailed bottle of Barolo with just a whisper of excessive alcohol. 89-91
With food: sweet, dried fruit, bight, vivid and really a fine contrast to the food, good length 88-90
Day 2: Almost smells like honeycomb, spent candle, then freshly cut prosciutto before adding more typical pressed flower, sandalwood, hint of dried orange peel, and salumi aromas along with a hint of cherry. Smooth, moderately rich, juicy, playful with an array of gently burnished flavors recalling candlewax, cherry, and lardo. Just a great balance of slightly wiry but well managed tannins, juicy acidity, and long, layered flavors This is easily drinkable today and can age 5-10 years, but for now I would say this is a terrific taste of the 2016 vintage, and/or restaurant wine. Lovely 90-91
2016 Bovio Barolo 14% 89pts $40
Initial impressions: Wow, this is very fruity, just a bowl of raspberries and cherries on the nose with a hint of old wood lending some contrast and slow to emerge notes of menthol tempering some of the candied character and overt fruitiness. Smooth, supple, and polished with a lovely midpalate, that shows easy accessibility. It's got sufficient tannins for aging, with acidity that lends some juiciness, particularly notable on the moderately long finish, but this is on the verge of already drinking well. It’s not complex, but shows lovely fruit character, fresh, complex, and almost bold. A real crowd pleaser if there is such a thing with young Barolo, but not lacking any other aspect that a young Baolo should have. Tannins really build quite quickly. Lacks just a touch of intensity. 88-89
With food:A dash of fruit up front, a note of pepperines on the finish, but through the midpalate pretty traditional dried fruit and tobacco flavors. Clean, a little angular, but a fine food wine. 88-89
Day 2: Dried fruit, leather, butcher’s wax, and sme hibiscus show restraint across the modest yet attractive nose. Rounded on entry, well balanced, almost silky, at least headed in that direction with juicy acidity highlighting the red cherry and orchard fruit flavors. A modest wine that turns austere on the finish while not losing it’s modest carriage of fruit, and retaining a lovely inner mouth perfume driven complexity. Long finish shows some roasted chestnut and a hint of vanilla on the finale. It’s lovely, graceful, little wine with all the characteristics of Barolo conveyed with a gentle voice. 89-91
2016 Marcarini Barolo del Comune di La Morra 14% 87pts $47
Initial impressions: Notably complex on the nose with aromas of dried citrus peel, old worn wood, peach, and red berries, and even some cedar competing for one’s attention. Smells terrific, but the wood aspect is a bit aggressive within the paradigm of Marcarini Barolo. Elegant, rather fine and fairly juicy with a spring to its step as it crosses the palate. Another wine that lacks a touch of intensity perhaps but makes up for it with a liveliness in the mouth, and a pleasant layered quality to the red berry, underbrush, and slightly herbal flavors. Here we have a notably different story on the finish, where the flavors sublimate as they gently drift off. The wood influence on the nose gains a bit of intensity with air and the wood tannins gain the upper hand on the finish. 87-89
With food: Smooth but a bit angular, not coarse but slightly rustic 86-88
Day 2:Quite aromatic, though showing more evolution than I would like at this stage. Having said that it does makes this more rewarding right now but plants doubts for the future. Dried fruit, dried herbs, leather and white soil tones grace the nose. Lively in the mouth and a rather unique example of 2016, not having the overt ripeness and accompanying alcohol. In the mouth this also shows as fairly advanced, lovely to drink with its dried fruit, earthy, almost leathery palate impression which shows some carob on the backend before gaining a bit of red forest fruit. Pleasant and a solid choice for drinking now and over the near term. 87-88
2016 Mario Marengo Barolo 14% 91pts $45
Initial impressions: Moderately oaky, not vulgar, but it is the first thing one notices here, though the red fruit, stone, and floral aromas that emerge parry the wood well enough. Smooth, polished, and fairly rich in the mouth with attractively pure and intense menthol wrapped balsamic Nebbiolo fruit. The base wine here is terrific. I am of the opinion that the wood did it no favors, but it is intense enough and pure enough to emerge victorious at the moment. Gains a touch of mushroom on the nose, then that pure and intense fruit coats the palate, though well balanced by supporting acids, and ripe integrated tannins. Finishes with lots of fruit tannins, good length, balance, tension and energy. A very attractive value here. Needs a few years to integrate but this is going to be lovely. Has a sneaky return on the finish, floral, blue fruits, and a touch of limestone. 90-92
With food: Very aromatic but the food does cover the flavors and clips the finish here. Wrong food perhaps yet this remains attractive 88-90
Day 2: There’s a little cedar here sort of showing up on the edges but the nose is anchored by a lovely fresh red berry fruitiness and some cardamom spice notes. Good intensity, lovely aromatic integration. Sweetly fruity on entry if showing a slightly dried character to the red berry flavors. Lively, well measured tannins, are balanced by integrated but juicy acidity. This is really lovely, long, aromatic, pure and vibrant. It of course lacks some intensity compared to the top wine, but a fabulous Classico and one that you can drink soon or age. Does show just a bit of heat on the finish, but that’s the vintage. Needs brasato. 90-91