Cogno, Elvio
Nadia and Valter
March 2024
Most improved. I keep saying that about Elvio Cogno, but the truth is that Valter Fissore and Nadia Cogno have taken a very good winery and have elevated their lineup to produce wines at the very top level in Piemonte. It is easy to just look at the Barolos produced here and say the winery is doing fantastic work, but in reality that would be doing the family a disservice. I would say that the entire line-up at Cogno is one of the absolute best portfolios in the Langhe. From top to bottom the wines exhibit such excellence, and with incredible thought put into each wine. It’s not just a set of well made wines for what they are, but a portfolio of ideas, a synthesis of interpretation that makes the wines here so compelling.
Take for example the Nascetta, a wine brought back from the brink of extinction based mainly on Valter’s faith in it’s ability to offer a unique expression of a white in the Langhe. It’s wine that exemplifies the Cogno philosophy. What started out as a bit of gamble, has, through constant tweaking and adjustment, become a flagship wine. While it may seem to be a simple white in its youth, though a very satisfying one at that, it has become a unique, age worthy wine that has carved out a niche for itself. The most recent vintage has been aged 50% in wood, no longer undergoes cold maceration nor malo-lactic fermentation in order to focus on the vivid nature of Nascetta’s character.
But the unique approach doesn’t just start and end with Nascetta. The Montegrillo Nebbiolo has become an incredible essence of Nebbiolo, veering as far as possible from the house’s Barolo style with 30% carbonic maceration that lends the wine a joyful, playful approachability while distilling the essence of the Nebbiolo flavor profile. It is Nebbiolo for everyday, and everybody. On more serious notes there is the pre-phylloxera Barbera d’Alba, a wine without equal in the region. Really, it is almost impossible to compare this wine to other Barberas, it has such depth, detail, and richness that it is becoming an iconic wine in my book. While the 2022 doesn’t quite reach the perfection of 2021’s version it is still quite a wine! But if you can find it the 2021 is an absolute show-stopper of a Barbera.
And finally the Barolos, Bricco Pernice which undergoes whole cluster fermentation to add addition detail and nuance to the wine, further elevating the wine above the already fabulous Ravera bottling, and the renowned Vigna Elena, 100% rosé clone planted in Ravera in 1991, a wine that also sits apart from its peers.
Of course we are hear to discuss these wines, but it’s also worth noting that Nadia and Valter are also a joy to sit with. Exuding pride and enthusiasm, they love to show their wine, but at the same time they love to discuss them as well, honestly and frankly. The work they have done is nothing short of remarkable. They have pushed Cogno winery to the forefront of regional producers while at the same time focusing attention on the village of Novello and elevating its status, and that of the Ravera Cru more specifically, so that it receives the great attention that is its due.
It sort of goes without saying that Cogno is a Top 10 Barolo producer in my book. They have maintained generally appropriate pricing across the board, and their exceptional portfolio of wines offers some real values, and the wines have shown a remarkable consistency of quality white reflecting their vintage differences over the past half dozen vintages or so. If I had to limit myself to one producer in Piemonte, it would like be Cogno.
2018 Elvio Cogno Anas Cetta
Deeply developed yellow color, aromatic, quite floral with honeysuckle notes, a touch of flint, a hint of rubber band, apricot kernel, dried lime zest, with a slightly candied tone, Terpene aromatics emerge with air. Showing great energy on the palate, fine and silky, with some breadth, yet so well knit and transparent with some textural angularity in the mouth. Long and floral, pollen and river stones on the long finish with a nice salty tone on the finale. Dried hay on the nose creeps in. So elegant and refined, amazing cut on the finish, such a huge evolution on the nose, the palate retains amazing freshness given the aromatic evolution here. 94pts
2023 Elvio Cogno Anas Cetta
Just bottled
50% in wood, no cold maceration, no Malo
Grapefruit, lemon drop, pretty fruit, while flowers, chamomile, honeysuckle. This retains the richness of youth, though with gorgeous transparency. Mineral, tension and clarity define the palate, juicy citrusy acidity, great resonance on the finish. Such a baby, all tension and bright fruit, a hint of the more dried herb hay tone that the wine will attain, good transparency for the terroir but if you don’t know what the wine is capable of you might be underwhelmed, with some zesty spice, pear, kumquat a hint of elderflower, long river stone finish. 93pts
2023 Elvio Cogno Dolcetto d’Alba Mandorlo
A very round, soft vintage
Just bottled
Totally raw on the nose, has that astringent chalky quality of raw Dolcetto, bitter almond, dried flowers, quite plummy with a hint of geranium. Fresh on entry, a touch chunky with some density to it, great acid drive with powdery, chalky tannins leading to a good finish with lovely fresh fruit flavors. Slightly exotic plummy fruit through the longish finish, mouth cleansing, textbook, needs 3-6 months but has the freshness, cut and purity of fruit of a fine Dolcetto. Violet and soapy florals emerge on the nose, pure and gains energy with air. 93pts
2023 Elvio Cogno Montegrilli Langhe Nebbiolo
30% Carbonic, just bottled
Has a gentle carbonic note early on the palate, spicy before the fruit shows up, stemmy spice, all raspberry and strawberry and very estery with a hint of banana bubblegum, Silky, fresh, absolutely playful but still Nebbiolo with small raspberry fruit, nice cut, just a hint of Nebbiolo tannin emerges on the midpalate along with a cooling menthol top note. Finish is great, bright balloon of fruit, with a fine mineral framing note, totally silky big in the mouth without any weight,, I love drinking this, it is so easy to drink but absolutely 100% nebbiolo in a new style. 94pts
2022 Elvio Cogno Barbera d’’Alba Bricco dei Merli
Just bottled
Raw on the nose, slow to emerge fresh leather wrapped black cherry fruit, tight and focused with a nice ivy accent, Almost light weight, lovely clarity and tension on the palate, deep and juicy, great cut, so clean and energetic on the finish, harmonious. Huge lift to the fruit, black and gentle baked fruit and spice notes on the backend. So refined, so elegant, so pure and so long, tannins are almost non existent, they emerge on the finale, a gentle dusting on the tongue, but this is a thoroughbred, lovely. 94pts
2022 Elvio Cogno Barbera d’Alba Pre-Phylloxera
1800 bottles 200 mags
Just bottled
Here you find a blend of reticence and depth, much more soil driven and with a floral basenote, wild blackberry fruit. Opens with folded in power, just layers and layers, good, cut great vinously, fabulous depth, great balsamic character, a richness on the palate that doesn’t come from weight. Great acidity which is covered on the palate but bursts out on the finish. Cracked pepper emerges on the nose and has a strong showing early on the palate. Just a hint of supple tannin here, with a beautiful pomegranate accent. Dusty tannin grows in the glass, just another class of wine, Not comparable to Barbera. 96pts
2021 Elvio Cogno Barbaresco Bordini
Quite open and fragrant on the nose with a nutty undertone to the burnished red cherry fruit, nuanced and complex, there’s a slightly medicinal balsamic cast to the aromatics that lends terrific complexity here, along with dried floral and sandy, saline soil tones. Bright on entry, lots of acidity here, this is very bright and juicy, a decidedly feminine and approachable vintage, lovely delicacy and transparency with gentle and generally sweet tannins, nuanced and delicate through the finish with its sour cherry and citrus intonations. 93pts
2020 Elvio Cogno Barolo Cascina Nuova
Very pale, Cool, focused on the nose, a touch of nuttiness, dried floral character, dried sour and white cherry, a hint of cigar tobacco, a little green anise seed, Supple texture, so delicate and fine, but at the same time firm with good energy, the texture is of mature Barolo, lots of amarena and rainier cherry on the palate, with a dark streak of licorice and tar gracing the midpalate followed by a bright and slightly astringent citrus toned, and slightly lacy finish, with an incipient truffle note, and some chalky soil accents. Turns fresh and floral with air. 93pts
2020 Elvio Cogno Barolo Rivera
Gorgeous depth and florals on the nose, a big jump ip in seriousness, rose petal, tightly focused, elegant and just so focused. This has lovely tannin integration, deep, stoney inflected mid palate fruit, more tension than most 2020s on the palate, still folded in on itself, needs time to relax on the finish, faceted with black cherry skin fruit and amazing mineral transparency, develops so much rose petal on the nose, fine firmness provided by the tannins which are ripe but so present, on of the top of the 2020 pyramid as far as quality and potential are concerned. 95pts
2019 Elvio Cogno Barolo Bricco Pernice
100% whole cluster
So willowy on the nose, more herbs, stems, and spice, complex, has a whisper of grapefruit, briarwood, dried mushroom lurking, just fabulously complex, Generous in the mouth, has a certain richness which is counterbalanced by the tannins of 2019 lending this terrific gravity. It’s really anchored on the palate, old viny and nuanced with burnished rainier cherry fruit. Tannic but not chewy on the finish, energy and thrust, super fine with a resonance to the delicate fruit that is surprising, flowers and citrus, with tension and delicacy 94pts
2018 Elvio Cogno Barolo Vigna Elena
Red fruit, lipstick, dried citron peel, delicate yet intense, Delicate on the palate as well but with nice sense of evolution, a hint of truffle, caramelized wild berry fruits, juicy, fine tannins. Long so suave, so enveloping, this is just so harmonious, so sneaky and long, intriguing, with this nuanced delicacy, so complex. Not built on fruit but on savory, herbal character and saline minerality, then there’s this gentle seeping out of flavors and nuance that goes on and one. It’s some what evolved and close to peak, 2-4 years, but already is delivering so much detail and nuance. 94pts
2004 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera
Just open, has a nice leathery, tar, truffle top note, with air freshness up instantly, reveals lots of fruit ripe, ripe wine, rich polished, juicy tannins are fairly well integrated, long, lovely tannins are as tough as many current release wines, tart red fruit, more complex, richer but harder to drink.
2005 Elvio Cogno Barolo Rivera
Fresher, more tobacco, mushroom, less fruit but fresher and more complex, but a little less ripe, with terrific focus, more focused, there’s lovely freshness here, this is so bright and tense, long, tons of licorice, crisp, juicy, more vertical, more incisive, more my style of Barolo.
Most improved. I keep saying that about Elvio Cogno, but the truth is that Valter Fissore and Nadia Cogno have taken a very good winery and have elevated their lineup to produce wines at the very top level in Piemonte. It is easy to just look at the Barolos produced here and say the winery is doing fantastic work, but in reality that would be doing the family a disservice. I would say that the entire line-up at Cogno is one of the absolute best portfolios in the Langhe. From top to bottom the wines exhibit such excellence, and with incredible thought put into each wine. It’s not just a set of well made wines for what they are, but a portfolio of ideas, a synthesis of interpretation that makes the wines here so compelling.
Take for example the Nascetta, a wine brought back from the brink of extinction based mainly on Valter’s faith in it’s ability to offer a unique expression of a white in the Langhe. It’s wine that exemplifies the Cogno philosophy. What started out as a bit of gamble, has, through constant tweaking and adjustment, become a flagship wine. While it may seem to be a simple white in its youth, though a very satisfying one at that, it has become a unique, age worthy wine that has carved out a niche for itself. The most recent vintage has been aged 50% in wood, no longer undergoes cold maceration nor malo-lactic fermentation in order to focus on the vivid nature of Nascetta’s character.
But the unique approach doesn’t just start and end with Nascetta. The Montegrillo Nebbiolo has become an incredible essence of Nebbiolo, veering as far as possible from the house’s Barolo style with 30% carbonic maceration that lends the wine a joyful, playful approachability while distilling the essence of the Nebbiolo flavor profile. It is Nebbiolo for everyday, and everybody. On more serious notes there is the pre-phylloxera Barbera d’Alba, a wine without equal in the region. Really, it is almost impossible to compare this wine to other Barberas, it has such depth, detail, and richness that it is becoming an iconic wine in my book. While the 2022 doesn’t quite reach the perfection of 2021’s version it is still quite a wine! But if you can find it the 2021 is an absolute show-stopper of a Barbera.
And finally the Barolos, Bricco Pernice which undergoes whole cluster fermentation to add addition detail and nuance to the wine, further elevating the wine above the already fabulous Ravera bottling, and the renowned Vigna Elena, 100% rosé clone planted in Ravera in 1991, a wine that also sits apart from its peers.
Of course we are hear to discuss these wines, but it’s also worth noting that Nadia and Valter are also a joy to sit with. Exuding pride and enthusiasm, they love to show their wine, but at the same time they love to discuss them as well, honestly and frankly. The work they have done is nothing short of remarkable. They have pushed Cogno winery to the forefront of regional producers while at the same time focusing attention on the village of Novello and elevating its status, and that of the Ravera Cru more specifically, so that it receives the great attention that is its due.
It sort of goes without saying that Cogno is a Top 10 Barolo producer in my book. They have maintained generally appropriate pricing across the board, and their exceptional portfolio of wines offers some real values, and the wines have shown a remarkable consistency of quality white reflecting their vintage differences over the past half dozen vintages or so. If I had to limit myself to one producer in Piemonte, it would like be Cogno.
2018 Elvio Cogno Anas Cetta
Deeply developed yellow color, aromatic, quite floral with honeysuckle notes, a touch of flint, a hint of rubber band, apricot kernel, dried lime zest, with a slightly candied tone, Terpene aromatics emerge with air. Showing great energy on the palate, fine and silky, with some breadth, yet so well knit and transparent with some textural angularity in the mouth. Long and floral, pollen and river stones on the long finish with a nice salty tone on the finale. Dried hay on the nose creeps in. So elegant and refined, amazing cut on the finish, such a huge evolution on the nose, the palate retains amazing freshness given the aromatic evolution here. 94pts
2023 Elvio Cogno Anas Cetta
Just bottled
50% in wood, no cold maceration, no Malo
Grapefruit, lemon drop, pretty fruit, while flowers, chamomile, honeysuckle. This retains the richness of youth, though with gorgeous transparency. Mineral, tension and clarity define the palate, juicy citrusy acidity, great resonance on the finish. Such a baby, all tension and bright fruit, a hint of the more dried herb hay tone that the wine will attain, good transparency for the terroir but if you don’t know what the wine is capable of you might be underwhelmed, with some zesty spice, pear, kumquat a hint of elderflower, long river stone finish. 93pts
2023 Elvio Cogno Dolcetto d’Alba Mandorlo
A very round, soft vintage
Just bottled
Totally raw on the nose, has that astringent chalky quality of raw Dolcetto, bitter almond, dried flowers, quite plummy with a hint of geranium. Fresh on entry, a touch chunky with some density to it, great acid drive with powdery, chalky tannins leading to a good finish with lovely fresh fruit flavors. Slightly exotic plummy fruit through the longish finish, mouth cleansing, textbook, needs 3-6 months but has the freshness, cut and purity of fruit of a fine Dolcetto. Violet and soapy florals emerge on the nose, pure and gains energy with air. 93pts
2023 Elvio Cogno Montegrilli Langhe Nebbiolo
30% Carbonic, just bottled
Has a gentle carbonic note early on the palate, spicy before the fruit shows up, stemmy spice, all raspberry and strawberry and very estery with a hint of banana bubblegum, Silky, fresh, absolutely playful but still Nebbiolo with small raspberry fruit, nice cut, just a hint of Nebbiolo tannin emerges on the midpalate along with a cooling menthol top note. Finish is great, bright balloon of fruit, with a fine mineral framing note, totally silky big in the mouth without any weight,, I love drinking this, it is so easy to drink but absolutely 100% nebbiolo in a new style. 94pts
2022 Elvio Cogno Barbera d’’Alba Bricco dei Merli
Just bottled
Raw on the nose, slow to emerge fresh leather wrapped black cherry fruit, tight and focused with a nice ivy accent, Almost light weight, lovely clarity and tension on the palate, deep and juicy, great cut, so clean and energetic on the finish, harmonious. Huge lift to the fruit, black and gentle baked fruit and spice notes on the backend. So refined, so elegant, so pure and so long, tannins are almost non existent, they emerge on the finale, a gentle dusting on the tongue, but this is a thoroughbred, lovely. 94pts
2022 Elvio Cogno Barbera d’Alba Pre-Phylloxera
1800 bottles 200 mags
Just bottled
Here you find a blend of reticence and depth, much more soil driven and with a floral basenote, wild blackberry fruit. Opens with folded in power, just layers and layers, good, cut great vinously, fabulous depth, great balsamic character, a richness on the palate that doesn’t come from weight. Great acidity which is covered on the palate but bursts out on the finish. Cracked pepper emerges on the nose and has a strong showing early on the palate. Just a hint of supple tannin here, with a beautiful pomegranate accent. Dusty tannin grows in the glass, just another class of wine, Not comparable to Barbera. 96pts
2021 Elvio Cogno Barbaresco Bordini
Quite open and fragrant on the nose with a nutty undertone to the burnished red cherry fruit, nuanced and complex, there’s a slightly medicinal balsamic cast to the aromatics that lends terrific complexity here, along with dried floral and sandy, saline soil tones. Bright on entry, lots of acidity here, this is very bright and juicy, a decidedly feminine and approachable vintage, lovely delicacy and transparency with gentle and generally sweet tannins, nuanced and delicate through the finish with its sour cherry and citrus intonations. 93pts
2020 Elvio Cogno Barolo Cascina Nuova
Very pale, Cool, focused on the nose, a touch of nuttiness, dried floral character, dried sour and white cherry, a hint of cigar tobacco, a little green anise seed, Supple texture, so delicate and fine, but at the same time firm with good energy, the texture is of mature Barolo, lots of amarena and rainier cherry on the palate, with a dark streak of licorice and tar gracing the midpalate followed by a bright and slightly astringent citrus toned, and slightly lacy finish, with an incipient truffle note, and some chalky soil accents. Turns fresh and floral with air. 93pts
2020 Elvio Cogno Barolo Rivera
Gorgeous depth and florals on the nose, a big jump ip in seriousness, rose petal, tightly focused, elegant and just so focused. This has lovely tannin integration, deep, stoney inflected mid palate fruit, more tension than most 2020s on the palate, still folded in on itself, needs time to relax on the finish, faceted with black cherry skin fruit and amazing mineral transparency, develops so much rose petal on the nose, fine firmness provided by the tannins which are ripe but so present, on of the top of the 2020 pyramid as far as quality and potential are concerned. 95pts
2019 Elvio Cogno Barolo Bricco Pernice
100% whole cluster
So willowy on the nose, more herbs, stems, and spice, complex, has a whisper of grapefruit, briarwood, dried mushroom lurking, just fabulously complex, Generous in the mouth, has a certain richness which is counterbalanced by the tannins of 2019 lending this terrific gravity. It’s really anchored on the palate, old viny and nuanced with burnished rainier cherry fruit. Tannic but not chewy on the finish, energy and thrust, super fine with a resonance to the delicate fruit that is surprising, flowers and citrus, with tension and delicacy 94pts
2018 Elvio Cogno Barolo Vigna Elena
Red fruit, lipstick, dried citron peel, delicate yet intense, Delicate on the palate as well but with nice sense of evolution, a hint of truffle, caramelized wild berry fruits, juicy, fine tannins. Long so suave, so enveloping, this is just so harmonious, so sneaky and long, intriguing, with this nuanced delicacy, so complex. Not built on fruit but on savory, herbal character and saline minerality, then there’s this gentle seeping out of flavors and nuance that goes on and one. It’s some what evolved and close to peak, 2-4 years, but already is delivering so much detail and nuance. 94pts
2004 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera
Just open, has a nice leathery, tar, truffle top note, with air freshness up instantly, reveals lots of fruit ripe, ripe wine, rich polished, juicy tannins are fairly well integrated, long, lovely tannins are as tough as many current release wines, tart red fruit, more complex, richer but harder to drink.
2005 Elvio Cogno Barolo Rivera
Fresher, more tobacco, mushroom, less fruit but fresher and more complex, but a little less ripe, with terrific focus, more focused, there’s lovely freshness here, this is so bright and tense, long, tons of licorice, crisp, juicy, more vertical, more incisive, more my style of Barolo.
April 2023 visit
2022 Elvio Cogno Anas Cetta
No Malo, half in botte
Incredibly aromatic,a bit of sulfur from recent bottling,
Linden, tomato, thyme, oregano, honey, rubber band, a touch of gooseberry, rich but not fruity, tight, So lively with reserves of power. There’s so much intensity on the palate that drops off quickly on the backend but the fruit lingers with a figgy/citrus note on the finale. 93pts
2016 Elvio Cogno Anas Cetta
All in Stainless steel
Smells of flint, more heathery and of woodland spice with roasted yellow fruits, a touch of coffee, tight, lacks something up front, then creamy, waxy Apple fruit, spicy, long, rich, with a still hint of tannin, great mineral steely cut, long with dried apple fruit, might be the more interesting of the two today, obviously more mature. 93pts
2022 Elvio Cogno Dolcetto d’alba 14%
Fruity opening on the nose rich with plummy character, violets with a hint of black pepper spice. Rich, chewy, and fresh, there’s a density here, picture perfect, clean, crisp, mineral, crystal clear, slightly more structured than typical perhaps but perfumed in the mouth. Very fine and very floral, with a hint of bitter almond on the finish, great inner mouth perfume of violets, that really lingers above the long finish. Fantastic drinkability. 93pts
2022 Elvio Cogno Montegrili Langhe Nebbiolo 14%
Watermelon and sandy soil greet the nose, So light and fresh, with a hint of tannin, bright and juicy, like a big rose, so delicate and fresh in the mouth, red cherry wild strawberry, delicate red fruits with a hint of white pepper, long with a nice framed glycerine feel. The perfumes emerge with air, nuanced, a faced jewel of a wine, the perfumes are super primary yet this is firmly structured for a lighter styled wine. 93pts
2021 Elvio Cogno Barbea d’Alba Bricco dei Merli
One year in wood, one week ferment, rich vintage, really powerful.
Dark, a little brooding, meaty, grilled meat, baking brownies, hints of ivy and leather, Powerful, dense, so well balanced, chewy, with integrated yet pronounced acidity, lots of fruit, black fruit, a little wood spice emerges on the backend and merges with wood tannins on the fairly long finish, lots of spicy notes on the backend where this grows on the finish, so perfumed, purity and vibrancy, really long, pure and focused. 94pts
2021 Elvio Cogno Barbera Pre-phylloxera 14.5%
Ivy, black cherry, spiced, sandalwood, savory, dark, oily seeds, almost exotic, Starts lighter on the palate, then develops great depth and cut, fairly tannic and dark, a really profound example, just a pure extract of of soil and varietal fruit with a remarkable concentration of black cherry fruit, enchanting nose, this stunning,so well structured, deep, with near endless length, and such reserves of fruit, with a wiry, briary core emerging, there is nothing that can make this better other than 4-8 years zesty, nuanced elegant wine. It is painfully rare that I think there is nothing that could make a wine better. This is not a benchmark Barbera per se, as it is its own category of wine apart from almost all Barbera. It is however a perfect wine. 100pts
2020 Elvio Cogno Barbaresco Bordini
Dark fruit, dried figs, dried floral notes, rose petal, lemon peel, strawberry with a slight jam edge, Bright, though showing a hint of evolution, powerful but light, great energy and cut on the palate, a little extract of nutty, red fruit, almost ready in some ways, still structured but approachable, but agreeable, with a fine future but the flavors are a little ahead of the structure. Rosehips on the palate, the sweetness of the fruit emerges with air. 91pts
2019 Elvio Cogno Barolo Cascina Nuova
Will eventually be labeled as Novello because they have bought additional vineyards outside Rivera, Panerole, Merli
24 months in botte, 20-15% whole cluster
Such a classic nose, cherries in alcohol, amarena cherry, hints of tar and licorice, deep wild rose, a hint of candied wood note. Fine balance and energy on entry, then lifted with bright, tart, red cherry fruit, dried flower, soil, a little dried meadow, rainwater, then the finish show this intense flourish great length, showing very well, still needs time but it is both complex and easy to see/understand. There’s depth, then a fine sheen of spice notes with a hint of wood tannin on the finish. Great balance. 93pts
2019 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera
50% whole cluster 60% Lampia
So much macchiato, dried herb, hint of torrefaction, dried cherry note, dried blood orange peel, a hint of green laurel, white pepper, and some wood spice top notes. Succulent, mineral, briary, powerful, long, noble tannins, so sweet on entry paired with intense yet transparent cherry strawberry fruit, it’s powerful, light, and frankly tannic yet long, elegant and full of finesse, a knockout wine. This is about as good and as serious a Barolo can be. Needs 10 years. What a value. 96pts
2018 Elvio Cogno Barolo Bricco Pernice
100% lampia
More classic Barolo, cherries in alcohol floral, raspberry, high toned, very intense but focused. Has a light medicinal golia accent. Elegant, finesse, tiny tannins, almost silky, bright citrus, juicy good length, Nuanced and complex, really quite acid driven on the finish, then there is a return of tart cherry fruit. There’s nuance here, a lightness on the palate, slowly a sweetness is emerging 91pts
2017 Elvio Cogno Barolo Vigna Elena
Lots of rose petals, little cherry in alcohol, very fine finesse even on the nose, a little red currant fruit, this is so refined and elegant, deep, savory chewy tannins, clips the length, faceted and nuanced, rather front loaded, then the tannins pile on, but they are ripe and sweet. Tobacco and briar emerges o nthe nose, with this lacy, twirling dried, orange peel. Rather closed in the mouth will need plenty of time. The nose is amazing, 94pts
2018 Elvio Cogno Barolo Vigna Elena
Bottled in august of 2022
More subtle, perfumed but in a different spectrum, all tea, chamomile, small red fruits, a spicy expression, more lilac. Gains freshness on the nose, elegant, so fine and absolutely silky, the tannins are very finely ripe as opposed to the coarser 2017, deep, nuanced, that grows with every sip, long, vibrant, with red fruit emerging on the finale, briar emerges with time, a noble wine. 94pts
2022 Elvio Cogno Anas Cetta
No Malo, half in botte
Incredibly aromatic,a bit of sulfur from recent bottling,
Linden, tomato, thyme, oregano, honey, rubber band, a touch of gooseberry, rich but not fruity, tight, So lively with reserves of power. There’s so much intensity on the palate that drops off quickly on the backend but the fruit lingers with a figgy/citrus note on the finale. 93pts
2016 Elvio Cogno Anas Cetta
All in Stainless steel
Smells of flint, more heathery and of woodland spice with roasted yellow fruits, a touch of coffee, tight, lacks something up front, then creamy, waxy Apple fruit, spicy, long, rich, with a still hint of tannin, great mineral steely cut, long with dried apple fruit, might be the more interesting of the two today, obviously more mature. 93pts
2022 Elvio Cogno Dolcetto d’alba 14%
Fruity opening on the nose rich with plummy character, violets with a hint of black pepper spice. Rich, chewy, and fresh, there’s a density here, picture perfect, clean, crisp, mineral, crystal clear, slightly more structured than typical perhaps but perfumed in the mouth. Very fine and very floral, with a hint of bitter almond on the finish, great inner mouth perfume of violets, that really lingers above the long finish. Fantastic drinkability. 93pts
2022 Elvio Cogno Montegrili Langhe Nebbiolo 14%
Watermelon and sandy soil greet the nose, So light and fresh, with a hint of tannin, bright and juicy, like a big rose, so delicate and fresh in the mouth, red cherry wild strawberry, delicate red fruits with a hint of white pepper, long with a nice framed glycerine feel. The perfumes emerge with air, nuanced, a faced jewel of a wine, the perfumes are super primary yet this is firmly structured for a lighter styled wine. 93pts
2021 Elvio Cogno Barbea d’Alba Bricco dei Merli
One year in wood, one week ferment, rich vintage, really powerful.
Dark, a little brooding, meaty, grilled meat, baking brownies, hints of ivy and leather, Powerful, dense, so well balanced, chewy, with integrated yet pronounced acidity, lots of fruit, black fruit, a little wood spice emerges on the backend and merges with wood tannins on the fairly long finish, lots of spicy notes on the backend where this grows on the finish, so perfumed, purity and vibrancy, really long, pure and focused. 94pts
2021 Elvio Cogno Barbera Pre-phylloxera 14.5%
Ivy, black cherry, spiced, sandalwood, savory, dark, oily seeds, almost exotic, Starts lighter on the palate, then develops great depth and cut, fairly tannic and dark, a really profound example, just a pure extract of of soil and varietal fruit with a remarkable concentration of black cherry fruit, enchanting nose, this stunning,so well structured, deep, with near endless length, and such reserves of fruit, with a wiry, briary core emerging, there is nothing that can make this better other than 4-8 years zesty, nuanced elegant wine. It is painfully rare that I think there is nothing that could make a wine better. This is not a benchmark Barbera per se, as it is its own category of wine apart from almost all Barbera. It is however a perfect wine. 100pts
2020 Elvio Cogno Barbaresco Bordini
Dark fruit, dried figs, dried floral notes, rose petal, lemon peel, strawberry with a slight jam edge, Bright, though showing a hint of evolution, powerful but light, great energy and cut on the palate, a little extract of nutty, red fruit, almost ready in some ways, still structured but approachable, but agreeable, with a fine future but the flavors are a little ahead of the structure. Rosehips on the palate, the sweetness of the fruit emerges with air. 91pts
2019 Elvio Cogno Barolo Cascina Nuova
Will eventually be labeled as Novello because they have bought additional vineyards outside Rivera, Panerole, Merli
24 months in botte, 20-15% whole cluster
Such a classic nose, cherries in alcohol, amarena cherry, hints of tar and licorice, deep wild rose, a hint of candied wood note. Fine balance and energy on entry, then lifted with bright, tart, red cherry fruit, dried flower, soil, a little dried meadow, rainwater, then the finish show this intense flourish great length, showing very well, still needs time but it is both complex and easy to see/understand. There’s depth, then a fine sheen of spice notes with a hint of wood tannin on the finish. Great balance. 93pts
2019 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera
50% whole cluster 60% Lampia
So much macchiato, dried herb, hint of torrefaction, dried cherry note, dried blood orange peel, a hint of green laurel, white pepper, and some wood spice top notes. Succulent, mineral, briary, powerful, long, noble tannins, so sweet on entry paired with intense yet transparent cherry strawberry fruit, it’s powerful, light, and frankly tannic yet long, elegant and full of finesse, a knockout wine. This is about as good and as serious a Barolo can be. Needs 10 years. What a value. 96pts
2018 Elvio Cogno Barolo Bricco Pernice
100% lampia
More classic Barolo, cherries in alcohol floral, raspberry, high toned, very intense but focused. Has a light medicinal golia accent. Elegant, finesse, tiny tannins, almost silky, bright citrus, juicy good length, Nuanced and complex, really quite acid driven on the finish, then there is a return of tart cherry fruit. There’s nuance here, a lightness on the palate, slowly a sweetness is emerging 91pts
2017 Elvio Cogno Barolo Vigna Elena
Lots of rose petals, little cherry in alcohol, very fine finesse even on the nose, a little red currant fruit, this is so refined and elegant, deep, savory chewy tannins, clips the length, faceted and nuanced, rather front loaded, then the tannins pile on, but they are ripe and sweet. Tobacco and briar emerges o nthe nose, with this lacy, twirling dried, orange peel. Rather closed in the mouth will need plenty of time. The nose is amazing, 94pts
2018 Elvio Cogno Barolo Vigna Elena
Bottled in august of 2022
More subtle, perfumed but in a different spectrum, all tea, chamomile, small red fruits, a spicy expression, more lilac. Gains freshness on the nose, elegant, so fine and absolutely silky, the tannins are very finely ripe as opposed to the coarser 2017, deep, nuanced, that grows with every sip, long, vibrant, with red fruit emerging on the finale, briar emerges with time, a noble wine. 94pts
I’ve been visiting with Walter and Nadia at Elvio Cogno for quite a few years now and have seen the quality here consistently move up the scale. There are only a few producer who really impress me each year, or rather exceed my expectations and Elvio Cogno has been on a tear as of late and absolutely knocked things out of the park this year. Every wine was terrific. When people ask me about Piemontese wines I now tell them not to forget the name elvio Cogno. If you see his wine on a wine list and are unsure of what else might be better, just go with the Cogno.
These are wines that seem to have a bit of modernist edge when they are young. That’s simply the purity of fruit and lack of overt winemaker signature talking. They are immensely appealing when because of this, pleasing almost any palate but as they age the baby fat slowly melts away revealing more detail, traditional style, and squeaky clean winemaking. I have said in the past that I don’t mind a bit of dirtiness in my wines, but these wines just go to show how captivating perfect wines can be.
Expanding cellar to be able to bottle the wines when he can not when he is able, he sometimes wants to bottle earlier but has no space to store bottles
Thinks that for example fifteen Elena needs only two years in wood and the third in bottle,
2016 Elvio Cogno Anas cetta 13%
1994 restarted the production,
Very fragrant with a little sweet pork fat note on the nose that is joined by aromas of dried flowers with a grassy edge with lots of salt and rosemary on the nose making this almost a marinade in the mouth. A touch of dissolved gas adds a hint of early petillance. Super acids support lots of bright citrusy fruit in the mouth with a hint of rubber band on the mid palate with green fruit highlights. Good length and drive, with real energy on the palate, the fruit is more green apple this year, with just a lovely finish, this has a touch of Muscadet to it, but more body and complexity than your typical Muscadet. This is a great showing. 93pts
2010 Elvio Cogno Anas cetta 13%
Lovely golden color still with green reflections, deep and complex on the nose, with gentle hints of beeswax, sweet fruit, golden apple,heather and white flowers and a touch of flint. Bright, mineral, and a little salty on entry but very metallic, muscular and energetic in the mouth with clean fruit and good acidic drive. Still lots of life left, crab apple toned fruit, real mineral base here with some green apricot tones on the finish. It’s very complex and nuanced, and very different from the younger version. This is a white to age and to follow. 91pts
2016 Elvio Cogno Dolcetto d’Alba 14%
3-4 days on the skins
A little subdued but complex on the nose with nuanced violet, earth, and fine black berry fruit undertones on the nose. Lots of acid and supple tannins lands this a restrained and elegant feel. A real Dolcetto made in a. fresh style with a slightly modern character. Great purity and cut on the palate with lovely ripe fruit that is quite pretty, which is rare for Dolcetto. With fine inner mouth perfumes, plum and blueberry come together on the palate in a very delicate way with no sign of extra ripeness or alcohol. This is acid driven with the finest of tannins, fairly long and slightly earthy. 91pts
2016 Elvio Cogno Langhe Nebbiolo Montegrilli 14%
Not a small barolo, should be not too expensive, drinkable, SS for a lot fresh aromas, very versatile, universal, also fish no problem, shooting for elegant style, not heavy, a little like Pinot Noir and Grenache, a little carbon is maceration, 40% whole cluster the rest is pressed very softly,
2013 only nebbiolo, initially just a touch of carbonic, increased each year, now they are comfortable with the percent not producing a wine that is too simple by increasing,
Reticent on the nose with hints of rose petals, sandalwood, and a suggestion of apple stems with a wash of powdery red cherry fruit. Turns very floral in the mouth, fresh and bright but with some gravitas.This has a, lacy tannic richness, dusty minerality and the purest most tender of fruit. So delicate yet so complex with the tannins so well measured. Dusty limestone tannins lend it such a vivid nature in the mouth with fruit that is persistent and delicate. OMG this is arguably the best bistro wine ever. Stunningly good wine this price point, buy it by the case. 92pts
This is the first, fifteen is good but not these tannins
2015 Elvio Cogno Barbera d'Alba Bricco dei Merli 14.5%
One year in botte, 15-25 Hl
Strives fora good balance between wood and acidity
This is incredibly fragrant, I can smell this from quite a distance with its cocoa dusted and slightly creamy blend of dark berry and black cherry fruit. Gauzy and fine, showing a certain restraint, this is a fabulous showing. So fine, deep and rich in the mouth and yet remaining elegant, man this is fresh on the palate, a touch salty, layered and ultra refined with acids that are real Barbera but so well integrated. A top Barbera, the finish is stunningly pure, a strong showing, texturally perfect, hard to imagine a better Barbera. 95pts
2014 Elvio Cogno Barbaresco Bordini 14.5%
Neive cru more elegant
A bit evolved on the nose with notes of carob and tea, sweet tobacco, very complex with nice red fruit as well and an interesting mineral and almost marine accent. Enters the mouth with really fresh fruit, totally supported by bright but not tart acids, turning more minerality and savory across the midpalate with forest floor notes that ebb and flow across the palate. Not big by any means but fills the mouth with fine cherry fruit and leafy accent notes supported by fine grained, dusty tannins. Fragrant red currant and cranberry berry fruit lingers on the long finish with lovely ripe tannins. This has a lovely core of fruit, just a lovely refined and nuanced bottle with great freshness to the vivid wild raspberry fruit. With air this turns cleaner and more precise. 91pts
2013 Elvio Cogno Barolo Cascina Nuova 14.5%
Recalls 99 as a style, it's powerful and fresh
15-16 yo Lampia Michet more than thirty five days, two years in botte slavonian not toasted, these are newer hybrid clones
Tight, pure and fresh on the nose filled with rose petals a little mint, wildflowers, and wild strawberry. Elegant and fine, this really fills the mouth with breadth, fine grained tannins, supportive acids, unevolved, but fine elegance and balance. Another refined wine with just terrific fresh mouthfeel, this is so pretty, the potential shows most strongly on the finish which is long with a gentle spice to it, real fresh crushed berry fruit, again there's a particularly fresh raspberry/strawb quality to it. Great length, with dusty tannins contributing to the length and gorgeous minerality. , I expect this will gain complexity with age but even already the freshness is impressive, there's real depth on the palate as well. As complete a wine as you can expect. 93pts
2013 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera 14.5%
70 years old, Lampia and Michet original clones,
Taken to another level aromatically, there's richness behind the fruit, a depth to this on the nose full of burnished fruit and a core of balsamic spice, a touch medicinal even in a good way, just lending nuance and serving as a counterpoint to the sweetness of the fruit. Moderately high acid lends this lovely freshness. This is very young with power that arrives vertically and later on the palate than the Cascina Nuova, a more precise, tauter wine, more tannic as well with a chewiness late on the palate and noble if austere tannins on the moderately long finish. The nose gains a hint of gunpowder with air. A grand vin indeed. 95pts
2012 Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice 14.5%
4000 bottles.
Three years in wood,
The extra ageing shows here with a little sweetness to the hints of apricot, red fruit and fresh bay leaf on the nose. So well knit, just a fine texture with tart red fruit flavors and tannins that are more important and tend to dominate the finish, which shows good length with fine rose inflected inner mouth perfumes on the backend. A powerful wine, lacks the sheer elegance of the 13s, a more chunky and angular vintage, the nose is very pretty though and that front loaded fruit is gorgeous, then there's that little misfire between front and back palate that is so typical of the vintage. 91pts
2011 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera Riserva Vigna Elena 15%
27 years
A touch darker than usual
An explosion of fruit, truffle,Iris, ginseng, a hint of dried rosepetal, spice perhaps and a touch of meat juice all explode on the nose. This is bordering on opulent, filling the mouth, though remains light on its feet. Fruit first, just gorgeous fruit, dances across the palate with layers of truffle, meat juice, and dark fruit flavors. Open knit but not loose at all, elegant and fine with acid driving the juicy fruit flavors. A joyful wine, weightless but powerful, a ballerina of a wine already so enjoyable but this is very young with a richness on the backend and this really impressive incipient complexity. Absolutely terrific. 95pts
2014 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera from the botte.
Fruit and spice greet nose with a hint of red licorice. Juicy and nuanced in the mouth with lovely dried herbal overtones and a bit of medicinal mineral spice. Rather high in acid, and linear in the mouth but already complex and complete. It has distinct cool vintage character throughout, ripe tannins, beautiful fruit on the palate, small scaled, compact and clean but elegant and fine with persistence to the fruit. Cut from classic cloth this has lean power with a subtle yet refreshing evergreen note. 88-90pts
These are wines that seem to have a bit of modernist edge when they are young. That’s simply the purity of fruit and lack of overt winemaker signature talking. They are immensely appealing when because of this, pleasing almost any palate but as they age the baby fat slowly melts away revealing more detail, traditional style, and squeaky clean winemaking. I have said in the past that I don’t mind a bit of dirtiness in my wines, but these wines just go to show how captivating perfect wines can be.
Expanding cellar to be able to bottle the wines when he can not when he is able, he sometimes wants to bottle earlier but has no space to store bottles
Thinks that for example fifteen Elena needs only two years in wood and the third in bottle,
2016 Elvio Cogno Anas cetta 13%
1994 restarted the production,
Very fragrant with a little sweet pork fat note on the nose that is joined by aromas of dried flowers with a grassy edge with lots of salt and rosemary on the nose making this almost a marinade in the mouth. A touch of dissolved gas adds a hint of early petillance. Super acids support lots of bright citrusy fruit in the mouth with a hint of rubber band on the mid palate with green fruit highlights. Good length and drive, with real energy on the palate, the fruit is more green apple this year, with just a lovely finish, this has a touch of Muscadet to it, but more body and complexity than your typical Muscadet. This is a great showing. 93pts
2010 Elvio Cogno Anas cetta 13%
Lovely golden color still with green reflections, deep and complex on the nose, with gentle hints of beeswax, sweet fruit, golden apple,heather and white flowers and a touch of flint. Bright, mineral, and a little salty on entry but very metallic, muscular and energetic in the mouth with clean fruit and good acidic drive. Still lots of life left, crab apple toned fruit, real mineral base here with some green apricot tones on the finish. It’s very complex and nuanced, and very different from the younger version. This is a white to age and to follow. 91pts
2016 Elvio Cogno Dolcetto d’Alba 14%
3-4 days on the skins
A little subdued but complex on the nose with nuanced violet, earth, and fine black berry fruit undertones on the nose. Lots of acid and supple tannins lands this a restrained and elegant feel. A real Dolcetto made in a. fresh style with a slightly modern character. Great purity and cut on the palate with lovely ripe fruit that is quite pretty, which is rare for Dolcetto. With fine inner mouth perfumes, plum and blueberry come together on the palate in a very delicate way with no sign of extra ripeness or alcohol. This is acid driven with the finest of tannins, fairly long and slightly earthy. 91pts
2016 Elvio Cogno Langhe Nebbiolo Montegrilli 14%
Not a small barolo, should be not too expensive, drinkable, SS for a lot fresh aromas, very versatile, universal, also fish no problem, shooting for elegant style, not heavy, a little like Pinot Noir and Grenache, a little carbon is maceration, 40% whole cluster the rest is pressed very softly,
2013 only nebbiolo, initially just a touch of carbonic, increased each year, now they are comfortable with the percent not producing a wine that is too simple by increasing,
Reticent on the nose with hints of rose petals, sandalwood, and a suggestion of apple stems with a wash of powdery red cherry fruit. Turns very floral in the mouth, fresh and bright but with some gravitas.This has a, lacy tannic richness, dusty minerality and the purest most tender of fruit. So delicate yet so complex with the tannins so well measured. Dusty limestone tannins lend it such a vivid nature in the mouth with fruit that is persistent and delicate. OMG this is arguably the best bistro wine ever. Stunningly good wine this price point, buy it by the case. 92pts
This is the first, fifteen is good but not these tannins
2015 Elvio Cogno Barbera d'Alba Bricco dei Merli 14.5%
One year in botte, 15-25 Hl
Strives fora good balance between wood and acidity
This is incredibly fragrant, I can smell this from quite a distance with its cocoa dusted and slightly creamy blend of dark berry and black cherry fruit. Gauzy and fine, showing a certain restraint, this is a fabulous showing. So fine, deep and rich in the mouth and yet remaining elegant, man this is fresh on the palate, a touch salty, layered and ultra refined with acids that are real Barbera but so well integrated. A top Barbera, the finish is stunningly pure, a strong showing, texturally perfect, hard to imagine a better Barbera. 95pts
2014 Elvio Cogno Barbaresco Bordini 14.5%
Neive cru more elegant
A bit evolved on the nose with notes of carob and tea, sweet tobacco, very complex with nice red fruit as well and an interesting mineral and almost marine accent. Enters the mouth with really fresh fruit, totally supported by bright but not tart acids, turning more minerality and savory across the midpalate with forest floor notes that ebb and flow across the palate. Not big by any means but fills the mouth with fine cherry fruit and leafy accent notes supported by fine grained, dusty tannins. Fragrant red currant and cranberry berry fruit lingers on the long finish with lovely ripe tannins. This has a lovely core of fruit, just a lovely refined and nuanced bottle with great freshness to the vivid wild raspberry fruit. With air this turns cleaner and more precise. 91pts
2013 Elvio Cogno Barolo Cascina Nuova 14.5%
Recalls 99 as a style, it's powerful and fresh
15-16 yo Lampia Michet more than thirty five days, two years in botte slavonian not toasted, these are newer hybrid clones
Tight, pure and fresh on the nose filled with rose petals a little mint, wildflowers, and wild strawberry. Elegant and fine, this really fills the mouth with breadth, fine grained tannins, supportive acids, unevolved, but fine elegance and balance. Another refined wine with just terrific fresh mouthfeel, this is so pretty, the potential shows most strongly on the finish which is long with a gentle spice to it, real fresh crushed berry fruit, again there's a particularly fresh raspberry/strawb quality to it. Great length, with dusty tannins contributing to the length and gorgeous minerality. , I expect this will gain complexity with age but even already the freshness is impressive, there's real depth on the palate as well. As complete a wine as you can expect. 93pts
2013 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera 14.5%
70 years old, Lampia and Michet original clones,
Taken to another level aromatically, there's richness behind the fruit, a depth to this on the nose full of burnished fruit and a core of balsamic spice, a touch medicinal even in a good way, just lending nuance and serving as a counterpoint to the sweetness of the fruit. Moderately high acid lends this lovely freshness. This is very young with power that arrives vertically and later on the palate than the Cascina Nuova, a more precise, tauter wine, more tannic as well with a chewiness late on the palate and noble if austere tannins on the moderately long finish. The nose gains a hint of gunpowder with air. A grand vin indeed. 95pts
2012 Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice 14.5%
4000 bottles.
Three years in wood,
The extra ageing shows here with a little sweetness to the hints of apricot, red fruit and fresh bay leaf on the nose. So well knit, just a fine texture with tart red fruit flavors and tannins that are more important and tend to dominate the finish, which shows good length with fine rose inflected inner mouth perfumes on the backend. A powerful wine, lacks the sheer elegance of the 13s, a more chunky and angular vintage, the nose is very pretty though and that front loaded fruit is gorgeous, then there's that little misfire between front and back palate that is so typical of the vintage. 91pts
2011 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera Riserva Vigna Elena 15%
27 years
A touch darker than usual
An explosion of fruit, truffle,Iris, ginseng, a hint of dried rosepetal, spice perhaps and a touch of meat juice all explode on the nose. This is bordering on opulent, filling the mouth, though remains light on its feet. Fruit first, just gorgeous fruit, dances across the palate with layers of truffle, meat juice, and dark fruit flavors. Open knit but not loose at all, elegant and fine with acid driving the juicy fruit flavors. A joyful wine, weightless but powerful, a ballerina of a wine already so enjoyable but this is very young with a richness on the backend and this really impressive incipient complexity. Absolutely terrific. 95pts
2014 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera from the botte.
Fruit and spice greet nose with a hint of red licorice. Juicy and nuanced in the mouth with lovely dried herbal overtones and a bit of medicinal mineral spice. Rather high in acid, and linear in the mouth but already complex and complete. It has distinct cool vintage character throughout, ripe tannins, beautiful fruit on the palate, small scaled, compact and clean but elegant and fine with persistence to the fruit. Cut from classic cloth this has lean power with a subtle yet refreshing evergreen note. 88-90pts