Amarone in 2014
It’s the heart of winter here in the northern hemisphere, a time when our attentions turn to robust red wines. One wine in particular seems to be relegated to these cold months, and that is a bit of a shame. I’m talking about the often misunderstood Amarone. A powerful wine, one with relatively high alcohol and rich flavors, but one that often is no more powerful than a cabernet or Zinfandel from a warm climate. How and why did Amarone earn this reputation as a wine to be enjoyed exclusively when we are shivering outside is an interesting story, and worth exploring today.
Amarone, coming from the Veneto region of northern Italy is a bit of an unusual wine. Produced from a blend of grapes, though relying mostly on the Corvina and Corvinone twins for most of its character, it is a wine that undergoes a bit of a unique process. The grapes are cultivated in a zone that also allows for the production of the much lighter Valpolicella as well as Recioto, the sweet dessert style of wine indigenous to the region. Amarone, literally translated as the little bitter one, was originally produced as a bit of a mistake, when an ignored barrel of wine destined to be turned into Recioto finished fermentation and ended up as a dry wine.
What began as that little misadventure has now turned into the most important wine of the region. What was once a powerful red wine, with alcohol and flavors concentrated through a three month air drying of the grapes has however assumed two identities, both misunderstood. the classic dry versions of Amarone are indeed big wines, and when they originally hit the scene several decades ago they were imposing wines. The wine world has however caught up to the power of Amarone, with ever increasing richness of fruit and alcohol levels that leaves Amarone smack in the midst of some of the finest wines in production. Though an offshoot of Amarone has inched closer to its roots as a sweet wine. Not that these versions of Amarone are sweet per se, though they can retain enough residual sugar to be sweet to those with more sensitive palates. This too is not unusual today, to find residual sugar adding fruitiness, richness, and texture to wines considered dry and destined for the dining table.
Yet Amarone is still thought of as an outlier. Something to drink in winter and difficult to pair with food. While both may be reasonable assumptions, they are only reasonable if one thinks the same of wines such as the aforementioned Zins and Cabernets. Like these two varieties, Amarone is a more complex proposition that is not easily categorized. yes there are versions that are a bit sweet, and can be a challenged to pair with food, though BBQ with or without sauces as well as game meats with fruit based sauces both spring to mind as perfect accompaniments. The more traditional Amarone, those without significant residual sugar are no more challenging to pair with food than any other powerful, intense, and flavorful wine. they all deserve our attention today, but our consideration year round as well.
There are several factors that have played influential roles in the evolution of Amarone, and each is worth mention today. the style of Amarone has certainly evolved over the years. From it’s origins as a rich dry wine, to today’s variety of styles, Amarone has remained a dynamic and fairly innovative wine. As such there are several hot topics one finds winemakers eager to discuss. perhaps the most divisive is the role noble rot, Botrytis Cinerea plays in the production of Amarone. As I mentioned earlier Amarone is produced with grapes that have been air dried on trellis for about 100 days. During this drying process the sugars and acids in the grapes concentrate, and the flavors of the grapes take on the complex notes of dried fruits. In some cantinas though something else is taking place. Noble rot is allowed to grow.
The role of noble rot is a complex process. it attacks the skins of the grapes to get to the sugars held within them. It does this by breaking down the skins, digesting them if you will. A process that is mimicked to a certain extent by producers using enzymes that break down the skins during fermentation. the proponents of the use of noble rot in the production of Amarone claim history on their side and posit that the action of the rot on the skins produces opulent wines rich in glycerine. A chemical that provides for a velvety mouthfeel.
Opponents of noble rot wonder why they shouldn't start their production process with the cleanest grapes possible and even if they conceded that a little noble rot might be helpful in producing a certain style of Amarone, there is no way to control the spread of botrytis on the grape. The proponents of the style suggest that an infection rate of about 40% is ideal for the production of Amarone. Simply put there are too many uncontrollable factors for many of the producer to feel comfortable with, not withstanding the effects botrytis can have on the actual flavors of the wines. It is an issue that will not be going away soon, though it seems that fewer producers are comfortable with Botrytis today than has historically been the case, with masi being the largest and most vocal proponent.
After Botrytis the biggest issue being discussed in Valpolicella is the role of the each variety in the blend, and more specifically whether Amarone should be a blended wine and if so if there remains a role for Molinara. Traditionally Amarone has been a blend of corvina and/or its larger berried clone Corvinone. Additional varieties such as Rondinella, Molinara, and occasionally obscure varieties such as Oseleta are added, either because of tradition, which can be hard to ignore both from a qualitative standpoint, as well as a viticultural standpoint. or to achieve a particular style. Briefly by viticultural standpoint I am simply referring to the fact that some vintners have the adjunctive varieties planted in the vineyards and may not have the means to replace them, or the vineyards to properly support Corvina or Corvinone.
Today’s Amarone is increasing becoming a wine dominated by either Corvina, with a bit of Rondinella added. Molinara is not seen as a noble grape by some and additions to Amarone are decreasing, but to understand why one needs to understand what each variety offers the blender.
Corvina offers both relatively high sugar, good acidity and extract levels, and rich fruit flavors that, when grown in the right spots, are accented by rather profound spice notes and floral accents. the spice note in particular are, for me, what sets apart a great Valpolicella, grown on south facing hills most likely, from an ordinary one. In Amarone some of the nuance is lost through the drying process but enough remains to add the needed aromatic complexity to make Amarone profound at times.
Rondinella is better suited to be planted on alluvial fans that spread across the lower reaches of gentle hills as they ease into the valley floor. lower in acid and sugars than corvina, Rondinella contributes richness, color, and extract to Amarone. Aromatically Rondinella is similar to Corvinone though more fruit driven and offering less of the spicy, floral nuance.
And finally there is Molinara, a thin skinned pale variety that at first glance might be mistaken for Pinot Gris. Molinari's historic role in the region was two fold. Most importantly it was and remains a prolific producer,. Secondly it’s pale wine retains acidity and freshness, even when dried for the production of Amarone.
It is easy to see why some might turn away from Molinara, though all seem enthusiastic for its future as part of the wonderfully light and fruity wines of Bardolino, a wine that we in the states have come to too closely associated with Valpolicella. Myself included. Molinara was useful when the weather didn’t fully cooperate. When one had to wait for real ripeness in the grapes, and perhaps risk losing a bit of acidity. For whatever reason, climate change has come to Valpolicella in a rather obvious way and that is no longer the case. Grapes ripen with gusto here, and early enough to retain plenty of acidity so the delicacy of Molinara is falling by the wayside.
Delicacy. Not a term one often associates with Amarone. is it the chicken or the egg? Are the wines less delicate, delicate being relative of course, because producers are using less Molinara or are producers using less Molinara in order to produce wines with more power and perhaps less grace? In either case the results are the same, and the causes many, though one can not argue that Amarone has been stricken with the larger is better disease that has devastated so many wine regions over the past two decades. Wines are fruitier, more alcoholic, and in many cases sweeter than they had been in the past. Two important influences are at work here. The hand of the winemaker of course, and that hand being not so gently guided in the pursuit of critic’s point which in most cases are misguided and have perverted the perception of what great Amarone should be. But climate change is also a culprit here.
Climate change is all around us but with Amarone in particular it is most apparent. Amarone evolved, to a certain extent, as a response to climate. A climate that was cool, and didn’t favor the production of rich, powerful, age worthy wines. The standard Valpolicella of days gone by was a light, refreshing wine, but one that wasn't equipped for ageing, nor did it produce much alcohol. An effort to concentrate it’s character, and to produce something that might last out a year or year or two resulted in the sweet wine Recioto, which in turn lead to Amarone.
Amarone was a big wine, by the standards of its day. 14.5% alcohol was not uncommon in a time when table wine might only be 10%. Today things have changed around the world and for better or worse 14.5% is pretty standard for table wines, and Amarone is now typically pushing 16%. Climate change certainly has played a role in this, as have clonal and site selection, more efficient yeasts, and vineyard management. It’s ironic that the same process once used to make delicate wines more intense are now, in the face of warmer and longer summers, being examined in an effort to ratchet back these effects. There is little one can do to turn back the tide on a warming climate, but one simple solution to try and keep alcohol in check is to stop fermentation, resulting in wines that have residual sugar. An increasingly common occurrence in Amarone, and one that further distort the public’s perception as to what this grand wine really is.
While climate change is certainly culpable here, so are, once again, the critics as well as the wine buying public. you can’t fault producer from making a wine that is easy to sell and time has shown that a large portion of the buying public like the fruitiness, richness, and softness that residual sugar imparts to a wine. it's not where my palate lies, nor is it where great Amarone lies, though critical acclaim might dispute that assertion. Residual sugar is one of the final details that both distinguishes Amarone, and raise the ire of many a producer. As a response to change it is fully understandable, though the few producers who strive for dryness in their wines might disagree. I end to come down on their side of the discussion, preferring a dry Amarone that has had its alcohol managed in the vineyard and not the cellar, but i fear that I may be in the minority here.
Amarone should be a great wine. one that is complex and nuanced, and age worthy. the global push for immediate satisfaction does not support this style of wine and that is a shame. Seeing them slip away, as is the case with many great wines saddens me. A final point of contention is yet another symptom of this trend. Wines that are bottled after minimal ageing. I really shouldn’t protest on this point for it is both a business decision as well as a stylistic one and I am of the thousand flower frame of mind. yet still, I compare wines that have spent more time in the cellar, often in bottle as well as cask, and can’t help but notice what benefits time confers on those that wait.
Amarone is a wine we should wait for, and waiting for winter to come around is not what i’m talking about. The great examples from Bertani demand waiting, often for decades, which is understandably impractical. though Bertani does have an amazing selection of mature, back vintage wines on sale at any given time. it is a historic wine, somewhat anachronistic, but capable of such beauty that it is invariably worth the wait. For those who favor immediacy, there is much to chose from, and even in Amarone I can see the need for a market segment that allows for this early exploration. I just hope we don’t see an ever increasing share of the production headed down this path. Amarone is a great wine worthy of your attention. The final obstacle in the enjoyment of Amarone is the price. These are not inexpensive by any means, Quite the opposite in fact, best served perhaps with cheese in the company of others. Share the cost of a few bottles with your wine loving friends and explore Amarone today. There is so much going on that it’s a surprising dynamic and exciting slice of the wine market. All too often ignored, until winter rolls around.
The wines that follow are tasted in order of the visits to the wineries, and then in order of service at each winery. Additional wines were tried at many properties including Valpolicella, Recioto, and white wines, all of which will be included in follow up articles.
Zenato
2009 Zenato Amarone Classico $65
Three years in botte then one in bottle
Fine bitter black nose, soil driven with old wood framing items, lots of medicinal licorice, a little orange peel, and almost minty character. Big on entry with lots of dry extract, you can feel this wine, though there are great acids and lovely soft supporting tannins supporting the masses of dark fruit that shows melted licorice and chocolate streaks to it. Laced with bitter cherry skins and a little mineral notes on the finish. finely textured if a bit chewy, this holds its alcohol very well. 90pts
2007 Zenato Amarone Riserva 16.5% $110
Dark rich and spicy on a nose filled with macerated herbs, mint, licorice,a little VA. In the mouth this is a big wine, bright and juicy on the palate, still fairly closed but you can sense the wild berry fruit with hints of pomegranate, chocolate, and those macerated herbs from the nose. Tannic and powerful on the palate and through the chocolate covered cherry finish, which is a bit clipped, still this remains fairly elegant for a wine of the size and nicely dry. 92pts
Bussola
2008 Tommaso Bussola Amarone Classico $55
Meaty, leathery, and spicy on the nose with big dried cherry fruit. while showing some wood in the mouth this remains smooth and polished, and attractively a little light bodied, if rich with alcohol. Attractive flavors of candied bitter cherry fruit are rather refined with a dusty mineral note and good length. Large scaled and elegant is ultimately a touch simple. 88pts
2007 Tommaso Bussola Amarone Classico $60
Super meaty on the nose with a spicy note that recalls freshly grated ginger along with notes of leather and a vegemite earthiness. In the mouth this is richer than the 08, smooth and more pliant and obviously fruity with spicy dried fruit character and less minerality. A bit more drying tannin is wrapped in the dark dried fruits that feature an accent of bright red berry acid, through the fantastic finish, which is long with great freshness. This is complex and quite complete. 93pts
2007 Tommaso Bussola Amarone TB $115
A selection of the best grapes, aged in new botte, 5hl tonneaux French, then a selection of the best tonneaux
Big and spicy on the nose with intense aromas that are earthy, deep and savory with macerated herb stems, and an almost stock like meaty richness. Seamless on the palate with impressive richness and full bing cherry fruit, dried berries and wood spice. Simply a superb texture and depth of flavor wraps around the palate finishing with very complex mineral accent and contrasting bitterness, and savory earthy flavors match the persistence of fruit right through the exceptionally long finish. 95pts
2006 Tommaso Bussola Amarone Vigneto Alto $190
Less fruit, and more of a floral character on the nose than one finds with the 2007, though this grows in the glass revealing intense savoriness and super complex, spicy, subtle dried fruit , and melted licorice aromas, picking up Iittle coffee candy and black pepper nuances with additional time in the glass. Seamless and really quite elegant on the palate with transparent and fresh red cherry fruit framed with gentle spice notes and an earthy cast, then fine mineral notes, white and rusty, emerge on the backend and over the creamy palate through the moderately long, very pure finish. 94pts
2007 Tommaso Bussola Amarone Vigneto Alto $190
Bottled August 2012 to be released in January 2014
Raw beef, fresh wild herbs, chocolate, malt, and a low spice character all come together on the explosive nose. In the mouth this is elegant and rich, really handling its weight quite well. there’s gorgeous fruit here. Bright and a bit chewy with black cherry almost blackcurranty flavors that pick up a little cured black olive with air. The backend shows a hint of drying tannin adding weight through the nearly endless finish. Defines iron fist in a velvet glove. A powehouse. 97pts
2003 Tommaso Bussola Amarone Vigneto Alto $TBD
Bottled in 2013
Huge on the nose with lots of black spice with toasted coriander, sassafras, a bit of honey comb, and lots of marzipan layered over rich, warm dried berry fruits. one is immediately struck by the lack of an aggressiveness on entry. This gently floods the palate with lightly spiced fresh red berry fruit, strawberry preserves, small wild amarena cherry, all showing near perfect integration through the long elegant finish. Totally refined and gorgeous, the tannins have great polish but haven't lost their texture, and the the fruit is remarkably fresh. The wine of the vintage in Italy? 94pts
Allegrini
2009 Allegrini Amarone $75
Smoky, with lots of candied herbal notes on the nose along with a bit of black currant over a nicely spicy chinato like base note. This is rather gentle on the palate, a little chewy, filled with dried cherry fruit, and rich with attractive dried herb and spice notions the back end. gentle in the mouth and quite polished with ripe fruit tannins and good refreshing acids on the finish. This is very clear and fresh on the palate with lots of red plum fruit on the dry, moderately long finish. 89pts
Masi
2009 Masi Amarone Costasera $55
Fine on the nose with well delineated aromas of minerals and dark fruit that is peppery with grilled meat notes. Polished and rich on the palate but with good clarity to the soft dried red fruit, red cherry flavors. The palate is firm with soft tannins, but this remains very easy to drink turning fairly complex on the back end with mineral driven flavors that lead to a clean, long and slightly grippy finish. Show a nice interplay of red fruit and minerality. 89pts
2007 Masi Amarone Riserva $70
Oaky and decidedly spicy on a nose that features big black cherry fruit underpinned with iron and green ivy accents. Powerful, dense and decidedly tannic in the mouth with lots of bitter chocolate framing notes and a core of chewy, dark fruit. This is a bit tough and chewy, and drops off on the finish with flavors that are a bit woody, with beefy iron laced accents. I don’t know where this is going but it certainly isn’t close to getting there. 88pts
2007 Masi Vaio Amaron $75
Very aromatic on the nose with exotic woody spice notes, cherry wood. Interestingly this is more perfumed in the mouth where huge floral notes emerge along with the exotic cast of cherry wood aromas. Round and powerful in the mouth, there is an attractive precision on the palate. This has unusual cut for an Amarone, long rich but light on its feet, tight, and superbly elegant. I love the tannins here, very snappy and adding support to what remains a rich, round and supple palate that all gets wrapped up in the long, spicy, and complex finish. 93pts
2006 Masi Amarone Campolongo $130
Smoky, soil driven and a bit woody on the nose with some olive notes adding additional complexity. This is soft, seductive, and just a little chewy in the mouth. Full of dark fruit, a bit of coffee here and fine mineral notes. There’s good clarity on the palate and the finish features persistent tobacco, dried herb, and dried citrus complexity. This is complex though there could be more fruit here and more energy in the mouth, which is a touch dull. 90pts
2006 Masi Amarone Mazzano $TBD
Smokey and soil driven on the nose, though this remains a bit reticent in the glass. On the palate this wraps itself around your tongue and pulls. A touch tough, rich, chewy and powerfully built it leads off with deep flavors of dried fruits and flowers before changing gears on the midpalate where it turns all chiseled and firm. Dry, firm and vibrant through the palate with a burst of violets and and bright fruit late on the palate, which shows great cut and energy on the palate with gorgeous bright berry fruit on the long , notably tannic finish. A powerhouse but so well balanced and defined. 94pts
Tommasi
2010 Tommasi Amarone $60
Lots of licorice, dried fruit, and candied fruit aromas greet the nose along with a touch of VA adding some lift. Rather rich up front, then turning supple and very smooth on the palate with enough RS to lend the dried cherry, dried strawberry and plum flavors a noticeable sweetness. The acidity here is well integrated, some tannins emerge on the backend and through the finish which is black cherry fruited and moderately long, showing a good blend of richness and focus. 89pts
2007 Tommasi Amarone Riserva ca Florian $100
7000 bottles, Corvina, Corvinone, rondinella, a little longer drying process than Amarone, aged for four year, two years tonneaux, two years in botte,
Sweet candied black cherry fruit greets the nose along with a huge chocolate note, and steeped green herb accents. rather spicy and pure in the mouth, this shows much more energy and transparency in the mouth than the Amarone normale. Super black cherry fruit drenches the palate followed by a lovely flush of minerality on the back end. Remaining clear and snappy in the mouth, subtle green herb stem and licorice nuance add detail while this finishes with salty focus and persistent spice notes, with a hint of wood influence showing. A big step up from Tomassi’s basic Amarone, this shows impressive textural and flavor complexity. 93pts
Speri
2009 Speri Amarone $80
Deep, complex, and masculine, if a bit oaky at first, though air brings out huge mineral notes with elegant floral high tones layered over a core of black cherry fruit with a little prune accent. On entry this is muscular and sinewy, tightly packed with fine grained tannins and big cherry fruit followed by layered mineral and oak notes. This is as clean and precise an Amarone as you're likely to find, a bit of wood tannin intrudes today but a year or two will take of that leaving behind the wonderful core of fruit drenched with minerality, basalty and salty, with a little grilled meat edge. This has super acids that are seamlessly integrated, and a finish that is crisply tannic, dry and firm with a the subtlest edge of creaminess. A most vinous and ageworthy Amarone. I am excited to try this again with some age on it. 94pts
Le Ragose
2006 Le Ragose Amarone Marta Galli $90
In tonneaux
Woody on the nose and spicy with paprika, black currant, spicy green leaves, and strawberry top aromas. there’s a sweetness of wood early on the palate, which is large scaled and typical of high end Amarone. Rich with dark fruit that is a bit extracted and deeply flavored with candied cherry notes and hint of black plum. This is a bit chewy with lots of fruit tannins and plenty of chocolate nuance in the mouth, though the finish is a bit short. The nose is beautiful, I wish that the palate showed more detail and complexity. 88pts
2006 Le Ragose Amarone $55
The gorgeous nose, shows off brilliant aromas of sweet herbs, complex middle eastern spice, dried herb stem, and rose stems. Elegant and wide open in the mouth, there are lovely red fruit flavors here, redolent of raspberry juice, then tobacco, bitter wild cherries, and a little cinnamon add engaging complexity. Fine ripe tannins keep this lively and fresh in the mouth, and through the finish which is long, persistently fruity, and clear as a bell with notes of dusty minerals emerging on the finale. 93pts
Tedeschi
2009 Tedeschi Amarone $50
VA greets the nose along with rich aromas of dried strawberry, raspberry and cherry backed up with gentle soil tones, a little fig, and underlying violet and white pepper tones A touch of sweetness on entry is quickly washed away by huge, refreshing acids in the mouth. While moderately tannic, the acids lend great clarity and incredible vibrancy to the palate. turning smooth and rich on the midpalate with dried cherry and date flavors that pick up some earthy spice on the long finish which also shows some spicy wood notes. This is deceptively easy to drink, and a refreshing change of pace for Amarone. 92pts
2008 Tedeschi Amarone Monte Olme $90
High toned stemmy herbal notes greet the nose followed by a little black pepper, some grilled meats, fresh plum, sweet tobacco, and drying hay aromas. Downright velvety on entry, lush with ripeness underpinned with some fine grained tannins. The dark fruit is a bit blueberry toned at first then shows flashes of currants and dried cherries in alcohol. there‘s great depth with a real flush of minerality on the finish along with perfumed macerated herbal notes adding additional complexity. This is seamless, elegant and refined until the long finish when the tannins and minerality wallop the palate. Already impressively attractive this should only improve with additional time in bottle. 94pts
2007 Tedeschi Amarone La Fabreseria $TBD
Produced seven times since 83, three thousand bottles,
Dark, leafy edged black cherry fruit, and grilled meats dominate the nose which turns lightly spicy with cedary wood, handfuls of dried leaves and earth, black tea, and a little pencil lead with air. A bit low on the palate, this is soft and seamless with roasted and pruny fruit that none the less feels fresh on the palate, though with the truffliness that comes from surmaturite. Fairly firm and tannic, though the tannins are very well covered with black cherry fruit on the palate. The fruit gains some detail in the mouth, very well grounded with spicy mineral notes and exotic spice notes which lead to a finish that absolutely crushes the palate with tannin. This is a monster. Not sure what will happen with this wine. The prognosis is good but so outside my range of experience that one has to be conservative when thoughts turn to its future. 92pts
Bertani
2006 Bertani Amarone $90
Cinnamon, and a bit of stemmy spice emerges from the tight nose that reveals a bit of meaty fruit with subtle black spice and some sweet laurel tones,. Blocky, full and somewhat indistinct in the mouth, this is rather medium bodied, tight, and not revealing much depth today. one can still see where this is going with attractive sliced cherry fruit laid over a touch of spice and some attractive mineral tones. what is striking is the texture, refined, silky, and rich but with tannins well covered by the fruit right through the autumnal finish, I can see being disappointed by this if you drink it today, It's frankly not ready, very aromatic on the finish, high toned with some VA that really adds lift. Subtle and long it promises great things for the future. 90pts
2001 Bertani Amarone $100
Here we have a wine just hitting its stride and full of aromatic tea, dried soil, dried flowers, a bit of fungi, and an underlying sweetness to the emerging notes of dried meat, licorice and cooked fennel. While the nose gives the impression of something older, this is still fresh and tight on entry, with real focus, and very elegant with attractive freshness to the fruit. Very much in the house style with dried fruit tones cast over a bed of fresh cherry fruit. There's plenty of emerging tannin here and underlying minerality, inner mouth umami notes emerge on the midpalate then the fruit tries to explode on the finish which is long and shows complexity younger versions lack. Very acid driven on the finale, with air the nose gains more soil driven components, and complex dried herb and incipient tobacco notes. Raspberry fruit starts to pop on the midpalate, and the finish gains additional layers of flavor. This could probably evolve over the course of day giving a fascinating drinking experience, and remains a good candidate for an additional decade or two of cellaring. 94pts
2010 Bertani Villa Arvedi $50
A fresher, more immediate style of Amarone produced since 2000
Spicy on the nose, with a lovely mix of African and Provençal spices. Almost curry like aromas are layered under big black cherry and wild berry fruit. Soft on entry with nice acids, and minor if firm tannins, this is round and creamy, with lots of bitter cherry wild berry fruit that shows good length. Round and generous if not that large scaled, this finishes with moderate length. I really see a similarity with Valpolicella here, a little jammy black fruit on entry, not terribly complex but interesting with nice spice and mineral accents on the finish which does show a bit of wood tannin. 88pts
Amarone, coming from the Veneto region of northern Italy is a bit of an unusual wine. Produced from a blend of grapes, though relying mostly on the Corvina and Corvinone twins for most of its character, it is a wine that undergoes a bit of a unique process. The grapes are cultivated in a zone that also allows for the production of the much lighter Valpolicella as well as Recioto, the sweet dessert style of wine indigenous to the region. Amarone, literally translated as the little bitter one, was originally produced as a bit of a mistake, when an ignored barrel of wine destined to be turned into Recioto finished fermentation and ended up as a dry wine.
What began as that little misadventure has now turned into the most important wine of the region. What was once a powerful red wine, with alcohol and flavors concentrated through a three month air drying of the grapes has however assumed two identities, both misunderstood. the classic dry versions of Amarone are indeed big wines, and when they originally hit the scene several decades ago they were imposing wines. The wine world has however caught up to the power of Amarone, with ever increasing richness of fruit and alcohol levels that leaves Amarone smack in the midst of some of the finest wines in production. Though an offshoot of Amarone has inched closer to its roots as a sweet wine. Not that these versions of Amarone are sweet per se, though they can retain enough residual sugar to be sweet to those with more sensitive palates. This too is not unusual today, to find residual sugar adding fruitiness, richness, and texture to wines considered dry and destined for the dining table.
Yet Amarone is still thought of as an outlier. Something to drink in winter and difficult to pair with food. While both may be reasonable assumptions, they are only reasonable if one thinks the same of wines such as the aforementioned Zins and Cabernets. Like these two varieties, Amarone is a more complex proposition that is not easily categorized. yes there are versions that are a bit sweet, and can be a challenged to pair with food, though BBQ with or without sauces as well as game meats with fruit based sauces both spring to mind as perfect accompaniments. The more traditional Amarone, those without significant residual sugar are no more challenging to pair with food than any other powerful, intense, and flavorful wine. they all deserve our attention today, but our consideration year round as well.
There are several factors that have played influential roles in the evolution of Amarone, and each is worth mention today. the style of Amarone has certainly evolved over the years. From it’s origins as a rich dry wine, to today’s variety of styles, Amarone has remained a dynamic and fairly innovative wine. As such there are several hot topics one finds winemakers eager to discuss. perhaps the most divisive is the role noble rot, Botrytis Cinerea plays in the production of Amarone. As I mentioned earlier Amarone is produced with grapes that have been air dried on trellis for about 100 days. During this drying process the sugars and acids in the grapes concentrate, and the flavors of the grapes take on the complex notes of dried fruits. In some cantinas though something else is taking place. Noble rot is allowed to grow.
The role of noble rot is a complex process. it attacks the skins of the grapes to get to the sugars held within them. It does this by breaking down the skins, digesting them if you will. A process that is mimicked to a certain extent by producers using enzymes that break down the skins during fermentation. the proponents of the use of noble rot in the production of Amarone claim history on their side and posit that the action of the rot on the skins produces opulent wines rich in glycerine. A chemical that provides for a velvety mouthfeel.
Opponents of noble rot wonder why they shouldn't start their production process with the cleanest grapes possible and even if they conceded that a little noble rot might be helpful in producing a certain style of Amarone, there is no way to control the spread of botrytis on the grape. The proponents of the style suggest that an infection rate of about 40% is ideal for the production of Amarone. Simply put there are too many uncontrollable factors for many of the producer to feel comfortable with, not withstanding the effects botrytis can have on the actual flavors of the wines. It is an issue that will not be going away soon, though it seems that fewer producers are comfortable with Botrytis today than has historically been the case, with masi being the largest and most vocal proponent.
After Botrytis the biggest issue being discussed in Valpolicella is the role of the each variety in the blend, and more specifically whether Amarone should be a blended wine and if so if there remains a role for Molinara. Traditionally Amarone has been a blend of corvina and/or its larger berried clone Corvinone. Additional varieties such as Rondinella, Molinara, and occasionally obscure varieties such as Oseleta are added, either because of tradition, which can be hard to ignore both from a qualitative standpoint, as well as a viticultural standpoint. or to achieve a particular style. Briefly by viticultural standpoint I am simply referring to the fact that some vintners have the adjunctive varieties planted in the vineyards and may not have the means to replace them, or the vineyards to properly support Corvina or Corvinone.
Today’s Amarone is increasing becoming a wine dominated by either Corvina, with a bit of Rondinella added. Molinara is not seen as a noble grape by some and additions to Amarone are decreasing, but to understand why one needs to understand what each variety offers the blender.
Corvina offers both relatively high sugar, good acidity and extract levels, and rich fruit flavors that, when grown in the right spots, are accented by rather profound spice notes and floral accents. the spice note in particular are, for me, what sets apart a great Valpolicella, grown on south facing hills most likely, from an ordinary one. In Amarone some of the nuance is lost through the drying process but enough remains to add the needed aromatic complexity to make Amarone profound at times.
Rondinella is better suited to be planted on alluvial fans that spread across the lower reaches of gentle hills as they ease into the valley floor. lower in acid and sugars than corvina, Rondinella contributes richness, color, and extract to Amarone. Aromatically Rondinella is similar to Corvinone though more fruit driven and offering less of the spicy, floral nuance.
And finally there is Molinara, a thin skinned pale variety that at first glance might be mistaken for Pinot Gris. Molinari's historic role in the region was two fold. Most importantly it was and remains a prolific producer,. Secondly it’s pale wine retains acidity and freshness, even when dried for the production of Amarone.
It is easy to see why some might turn away from Molinara, though all seem enthusiastic for its future as part of the wonderfully light and fruity wines of Bardolino, a wine that we in the states have come to too closely associated with Valpolicella. Myself included. Molinara was useful when the weather didn’t fully cooperate. When one had to wait for real ripeness in the grapes, and perhaps risk losing a bit of acidity. For whatever reason, climate change has come to Valpolicella in a rather obvious way and that is no longer the case. Grapes ripen with gusto here, and early enough to retain plenty of acidity so the delicacy of Molinara is falling by the wayside.
Delicacy. Not a term one often associates with Amarone. is it the chicken or the egg? Are the wines less delicate, delicate being relative of course, because producers are using less Molinara or are producers using less Molinara in order to produce wines with more power and perhaps less grace? In either case the results are the same, and the causes many, though one can not argue that Amarone has been stricken with the larger is better disease that has devastated so many wine regions over the past two decades. Wines are fruitier, more alcoholic, and in many cases sweeter than they had been in the past. Two important influences are at work here. The hand of the winemaker of course, and that hand being not so gently guided in the pursuit of critic’s point which in most cases are misguided and have perverted the perception of what great Amarone should be. But climate change is also a culprit here.
Climate change is all around us but with Amarone in particular it is most apparent. Amarone evolved, to a certain extent, as a response to climate. A climate that was cool, and didn’t favor the production of rich, powerful, age worthy wines. The standard Valpolicella of days gone by was a light, refreshing wine, but one that wasn't equipped for ageing, nor did it produce much alcohol. An effort to concentrate it’s character, and to produce something that might last out a year or year or two resulted in the sweet wine Recioto, which in turn lead to Amarone.
Amarone was a big wine, by the standards of its day. 14.5% alcohol was not uncommon in a time when table wine might only be 10%. Today things have changed around the world and for better or worse 14.5% is pretty standard for table wines, and Amarone is now typically pushing 16%. Climate change certainly has played a role in this, as have clonal and site selection, more efficient yeasts, and vineyard management. It’s ironic that the same process once used to make delicate wines more intense are now, in the face of warmer and longer summers, being examined in an effort to ratchet back these effects. There is little one can do to turn back the tide on a warming climate, but one simple solution to try and keep alcohol in check is to stop fermentation, resulting in wines that have residual sugar. An increasingly common occurrence in Amarone, and one that further distort the public’s perception as to what this grand wine really is.
While climate change is certainly culpable here, so are, once again, the critics as well as the wine buying public. you can’t fault producer from making a wine that is easy to sell and time has shown that a large portion of the buying public like the fruitiness, richness, and softness that residual sugar imparts to a wine. it's not where my palate lies, nor is it where great Amarone lies, though critical acclaim might dispute that assertion. Residual sugar is one of the final details that both distinguishes Amarone, and raise the ire of many a producer. As a response to change it is fully understandable, though the few producers who strive for dryness in their wines might disagree. I end to come down on their side of the discussion, preferring a dry Amarone that has had its alcohol managed in the vineyard and not the cellar, but i fear that I may be in the minority here.
Amarone should be a great wine. one that is complex and nuanced, and age worthy. the global push for immediate satisfaction does not support this style of wine and that is a shame. Seeing them slip away, as is the case with many great wines saddens me. A final point of contention is yet another symptom of this trend. Wines that are bottled after minimal ageing. I really shouldn’t protest on this point for it is both a business decision as well as a stylistic one and I am of the thousand flower frame of mind. yet still, I compare wines that have spent more time in the cellar, often in bottle as well as cask, and can’t help but notice what benefits time confers on those that wait.
Amarone is a wine we should wait for, and waiting for winter to come around is not what i’m talking about. The great examples from Bertani demand waiting, often for decades, which is understandably impractical. though Bertani does have an amazing selection of mature, back vintage wines on sale at any given time. it is a historic wine, somewhat anachronistic, but capable of such beauty that it is invariably worth the wait. For those who favor immediacy, there is much to chose from, and even in Amarone I can see the need for a market segment that allows for this early exploration. I just hope we don’t see an ever increasing share of the production headed down this path. Amarone is a great wine worthy of your attention. The final obstacle in the enjoyment of Amarone is the price. These are not inexpensive by any means, Quite the opposite in fact, best served perhaps with cheese in the company of others. Share the cost of a few bottles with your wine loving friends and explore Amarone today. There is so much going on that it’s a surprising dynamic and exciting slice of the wine market. All too often ignored, until winter rolls around.
The wines that follow are tasted in order of the visits to the wineries, and then in order of service at each winery. Additional wines were tried at many properties including Valpolicella, Recioto, and white wines, all of which will be included in follow up articles.
Zenato
2009 Zenato Amarone Classico $65
Three years in botte then one in bottle
Fine bitter black nose, soil driven with old wood framing items, lots of medicinal licorice, a little orange peel, and almost minty character. Big on entry with lots of dry extract, you can feel this wine, though there are great acids and lovely soft supporting tannins supporting the masses of dark fruit that shows melted licorice and chocolate streaks to it. Laced with bitter cherry skins and a little mineral notes on the finish. finely textured if a bit chewy, this holds its alcohol very well. 90pts
2007 Zenato Amarone Riserva 16.5% $110
Dark rich and spicy on a nose filled with macerated herbs, mint, licorice,a little VA. In the mouth this is a big wine, bright and juicy on the palate, still fairly closed but you can sense the wild berry fruit with hints of pomegranate, chocolate, and those macerated herbs from the nose. Tannic and powerful on the palate and through the chocolate covered cherry finish, which is a bit clipped, still this remains fairly elegant for a wine of the size and nicely dry. 92pts
Bussola
2008 Tommaso Bussola Amarone Classico $55
Meaty, leathery, and spicy on the nose with big dried cherry fruit. while showing some wood in the mouth this remains smooth and polished, and attractively a little light bodied, if rich with alcohol. Attractive flavors of candied bitter cherry fruit are rather refined with a dusty mineral note and good length. Large scaled and elegant is ultimately a touch simple. 88pts
2007 Tommaso Bussola Amarone Classico $60
Super meaty on the nose with a spicy note that recalls freshly grated ginger along with notes of leather and a vegemite earthiness. In the mouth this is richer than the 08, smooth and more pliant and obviously fruity with spicy dried fruit character and less minerality. A bit more drying tannin is wrapped in the dark dried fruits that feature an accent of bright red berry acid, through the fantastic finish, which is long with great freshness. This is complex and quite complete. 93pts
2007 Tommaso Bussola Amarone TB $115
A selection of the best grapes, aged in new botte, 5hl tonneaux French, then a selection of the best tonneaux
Big and spicy on the nose with intense aromas that are earthy, deep and savory with macerated herb stems, and an almost stock like meaty richness. Seamless on the palate with impressive richness and full bing cherry fruit, dried berries and wood spice. Simply a superb texture and depth of flavor wraps around the palate finishing with very complex mineral accent and contrasting bitterness, and savory earthy flavors match the persistence of fruit right through the exceptionally long finish. 95pts
2006 Tommaso Bussola Amarone Vigneto Alto $190
Less fruit, and more of a floral character on the nose than one finds with the 2007, though this grows in the glass revealing intense savoriness and super complex, spicy, subtle dried fruit , and melted licorice aromas, picking up Iittle coffee candy and black pepper nuances with additional time in the glass. Seamless and really quite elegant on the palate with transparent and fresh red cherry fruit framed with gentle spice notes and an earthy cast, then fine mineral notes, white and rusty, emerge on the backend and over the creamy palate through the moderately long, very pure finish. 94pts
2007 Tommaso Bussola Amarone Vigneto Alto $190
Bottled August 2012 to be released in January 2014
Raw beef, fresh wild herbs, chocolate, malt, and a low spice character all come together on the explosive nose. In the mouth this is elegant and rich, really handling its weight quite well. there’s gorgeous fruit here. Bright and a bit chewy with black cherry almost blackcurranty flavors that pick up a little cured black olive with air. The backend shows a hint of drying tannin adding weight through the nearly endless finish. Defines iron fist in a velvet glove. A powehouse. 97pts
2003 Tommaso Bussola Amarone Vigneto Alto $TBD
Bottled in 2013
Huge on the nose with lots of black spice with toasted coriander, sassafras, a bit of honey comb, and lots of marzipan layered over rich, warm dried berry fruits. one is immediately struck by the lack of an aggressiveness on entry. This gently floods the palate with lightly spiced fresh red berry fruit, strawberry preserves, small wild amarena cherry, all showing near perfect integration through the long elegant finish. Totally refined and gorgeous, the tannins have great polish but haven't lost their texture, and the the fruit is remarkably fresh. The wine of the vintage in Italy? 94pts
Allegrini
2009 Allegrini Amarone $75
Smoky, with lots of candied herbal notes on the nose along with a bit of black currant over a nicely spicy chinato like base note. This is rather gentle on the palate, a little chewy, filled with dried cherry fruit, and rich with attractive dried herb and spice notions the back end. gentle in the mouth and quite polished with ripe fruit tannins and good refreshing acids on the finish. This is very clear and fresh on the palate with lots of red plum fruit on the dry, moderately long finish. 89pts
Masi
2009 Masi Amarone Costasera $55
Fine on the nose with well delineated aromas of minerals and dark fruit that is peppery with grilled meat notes. Polished and rich on the palate but with good clarity to the soft dried red fruit, red cherry flavors. The palate is firm with soft tannins, but this remains very easy to drink turning fairly complex on the back end with mineral driven flavors that lead to a clean, long and slightly grippy finish. Show a nice interplay of red fruit and minerality. 89pts
2007 Masi Amarone Riserva $70
Oaky and decidedly spicy on a nose that features big black cherry fruit underpinned with iron and green ivy accents. Powerful, dense and decidedly tannic in the mouth with lots of bitter chocolate framing notes and a core of chewy, dark fruit. This is a bit tough and chewy, and drops off on the finish with flavors that are a bit woody, with beefy iron laced accents. I don’t know where this is going but it certainly isn’t close to getting there. 88pts
2007 Masi Vaio Amaron $75
Very aromatic on the nose with exotic woody spice notes, cherry wood. Interestingly this is more perfumed in the mouth where huge floral notes emerge along with the exotic cast of cherry wood aromas. Round and powerful in the mouth, there is an attractive precision on the palate. This has unusual cut for an Amarone, long rich but light on its feet, tight, and superbly elegant. I love the tannins here, very snappy and adding support to what remains a rich, round and supple palate that all gets wrapped up in the long, spicy, and complex finish. 93pts
2006 Masi Amarone Campolongo $130
Smoky, soil driven and a bit woody on the nose with some olive notes adding additional complexity. This is soft, seductive, and just a little chewy in the mouth. Full of dark fruit, a bit of coffee here and fine mineral notes. There’s good clarity on the palate and the finish features persistent tobacco, dried herb, and dried citrus complexity. This is complex though there could be more fruit here and more energy in the mouth, which is a touch dull. 90pts
2006 Masi Amarone Mazzano $TBD
Smokey and soil driven on the nose, though this remains a bit reticent in the glass. On the palate this wraps itself around your tongue and pulls. A touch tough, rich, chewy and powerfully built it leads off with deep flavors of dried fruits and flowers before changing gears on the midpalate where it turns all chiseled and firm. Dry, firm and vibrant through the palate with a burst of violets and and bright fruit late on the palate, which shows great cut and energy on the palate with gorgeous bright berry fruit on the long , notably tannic finish. A powerhouse but so well balanced and defined. 94pts
Tommasi
2010 Tommasi Amarone $60
Lots of licorice, dried fruit, and candied fruit aromas greet the nose along with a touch of VA adding some lift. Rather rich up front, then turning supple and very smooth on the palate with enough RS to lend the dried cherry, dried strawberry and plum flavors a noticeable sweetness. The acidity here is well integrated, some tannins emerge on the backend and through the finish which is black cherry fruited and moderately long, showing a good blend of richness and focus. 89pts
2007 Tommasi Amarone Riserva ca Florian $100
7000 bottles, Corvina, Corvinone, rondinella, a little longer drying process than Amarone, aged for four year, two years tonneaux, two years in botte,
Sweet candied black cherry fruit greets the nose along with a huge chocolate note, and steeped green herb accents. rather spicy and pure in the mouth, this shows much more energy and transparency in the mouth than the Amarone normale. Super black cherry fruit drenches the palate followed by a lovely flush of minerality on the back end. Remaining clear and snappy in the mouth, subtle green herb stem and licorice nuance add detail while this finishes with salty focus and persistent spice notes, with a hint of wood influence showing. A big step up from Tomassi’s basic Amarone, this shows impressive textural and flavor complexity. 93pts
Speri
2009 Speri Amarone $80
Deep, complex, and masculine, if a bit oaky at first, though air brings out huge mineral notes with elegant floral high tones layered over a core of black cherry fruit with a little prune accent. On entry this is muscular and sinewy, tightly packed with fine grained tannins and big cherry fruit followed by layered mineral and oak notes. This is as clean and precise an Amarone as you're likely to find, a bit of wood tannin intrudes today but a year or two will take of that leaving behind the wonderful core of fruit drenched with minerality, basalty and salty, with a little grilled meat edge. This has super acids that are seamlessly integrated, and a finish that is crisply tannic, dry and firm with a the subtlest edge of creaminess. A most vinous and ageworthy Amarone. I am excited to try this again with some age on it. 94pts
Le Ragose
2006 Le Ragose Amarone Marta Galli $90
In tonneaux
Woody on the nose and spicy with paprika, black currant, spicy green leaves, and strawberry top aromas. there’s a sweetness of wood early on the palate, which is large scaled and typical of high end Amarone. Rich with dark fruit that is a bit extracted and deeply flavored with candied cherry notes and hint of black plum. This is a bit chewy with lots of fruit tannins and plenty of chocolate nuance in the mouth, though the finish is a bit short. The nose is beautiful, I wish that the palate showed more detail and complexity. 88pts
2006 Le Ragose Amarone $55
The gorgeous nose, shows off brilliant aromas of sweet herbs, complex middle eastern spice, dried herb stem, and rose stems. Elegant and wide open in the mouth, there are lovely red fruit flavors here, redolent of raspberry juice, then tobacco, bitter wild cherries, and a little cinnamon add engaging complexity. Fine ripe tannins keep this lively and fresh in the mouth, and through the finish which is long, persistently fruity, and clear as a bell with notes of dusty minerals emerging on the finale. 93pts
Tedeschi
2009 Tedeschi Amarone $50
VA greets the nose along with rich aromas of dried strawberry, raspberry and cherry backed up with gentle soil tones, a little fig, and underlying violet and white pepper tones A touch of sweetness on entry is quickly washed away by huge, refreshing acids in the mouth. While moderately tannic, the acids lend great clarity and incredible vibrancy to the palate. turning smooth and rich on the midpalate with dried cherry and date flavors that pick up some earthy spice on the long finish which also shows some spicy wood notes. This is deceptively easy to drink, and a refreshing change of pace for Amarone. 92pts
2008 Tedeschi Amarone Monte Olme $90
High toned stemmy herbal notes greet the nose followed by a little black pepper, some grilled meats, fresh plum, sweet tobacco, and drying hay aromas. Downright velvety on entry, lush with ripeness underpinned with some fine grained tannins. The dark fruit is a bit blueberry toned at first then shows flashes of currants and dried cherries in alcohol. there‘s great depth with a real flush of minerality on the finish along with perfumed macerated herbal notes adding additional complexity. This is seamless, elegant and refined until the long finish when the tannins and minerality wallop the palate. Already impressively attractive this should only improve with additional time in bottle. 94pts
2007 Tedeschi Amarone La Fabreseria $TBD
Produced seven times since 83, three thousand bottles,
Dark, leafy edged black cherry fruit, and grilled meats dominate the nose which turns lightly spicy with cedary wood, handfuls of dried leaves and earth, black tea, and a little pencil lead with air. A bit low on the palate, this is soft and seamless with roasted and pruny fruit that none the less feels fresh on the palate, though with the truffliness that comes from surmaturite. Fairly firm and tannic, though the tannins are very well covered with black cherry fruit on the palate. The fruit gains some detail in the mouth, very well grounded with spicy mineral notes and exotic spice notes which lead to a finish that absolutely crushes the palate with tannin. This is a monster. Not sure what will happen with this wine. The prognosis is good but so outside my range of experience that one has to be conservative when thoughts turn to its future. 92pts
Bertani
2006 Bertani Amarone $90
Cinnamon, and a bit of stemmy spice emerges from the tight nose that reveals a bit of meaty fruit with subtle black spice and some sweet laurel tones,. Blocky, full and somewhat indistinct in the mouth, this is rather medium bodied, tight, and not revealing much depth today. one can still see where this is going with attractive sliced cherry fruit laid over a touch of spice and some attractive mineral tones. what is striking is the texture, refined, silky, and rich but with tannins well covered by the fruit right through the autumnal finish, I can see being disappointed by this if you drink it today, It's frankly not ready, very aromatic on the finish, high toned with some VA that really adds lift. Subtle and long it promises great things for the future. 90pts
2001 Bertani Amarone $100
Here we have a wine just hitting its stride and full of aromatic tea, dried soil, dried flowers, a bit of fungi, and an underlying sweetness to the emerging notes of dried meat, licorice and cooked fennel. While the nose gives the impression of something older, this is still fresh and tight on entry, with real focus, and very elegant with attractive freshness to the fruit. Very much in the house style with dried fruit tones cast over a bed of fresh cherry fruit. There's plenty of emerging tannin here and underlying minerality, inner mouth umami notes emerge on the midpalate then the fruit tries to explode on the finish which is long and shows complexity younger versions lack. Very acid driven on the finale, with air the nose gains more soil driven components, and complex dried herb and incipient tobacco notes. Raspberry fruit starts to pop on the midpalate, and the finish gains additional layers of flavor. This could probably evolve over the course of day giving a fascinating drinking experience, and remains a good candidate for an additional decade or two of cellaring. 94pts
2010 Bertani Villa Arvedi $50
A fresher, more immediate style of Amarone produced since 2000
Spicy on the nose, with a lovely mix of African and Provençal spices. Almost curry like aromas are layered under big black cherry and wild berry fruit. Soft on entry with nice acids, and minor if firm tannins, this is round and creamy, with lots of bitter cherry wild berry fruit that shows good length. Round and generous if not that large scaled, this finishes with moderate length. I really see a similarity with Valpolicella here, a little jammy black fruit on entry, not terribly complex but interesting with nice spice and mineral accents on the finish which does show a bit of wood tannin. 88pts