2012 Barolo - A vintage saved but not salvaged
Throw away your vintage charts! Everything is now officially always great!
Just take a gander at the 2012 crop of Barolo. The scores are through the roof. These wines are just as good as virtually any produced since the back to back disasters of 2002-2003. At least that’s what the hype machine would have you believe.
Caveat emptor.
It’s not true, sadly not true. As much as I hate doing what I’m about to do, I’m going to have to give my unvarnished opinion on this difficult vintage. I fully understand how hard producers work, and I do believe that 2012 was a vintage that required excellent and diligent work in both the vineyards and the cellars, but far too often I find myself thinking of wines as a success within the context of the vintage. On the flip side of course is the consumer, who works equally diligently for their income and deserves straight talk, not recommendations mysteriously and implicitly weighted with regards to the context of the vintage.
2012 was a challenge, cold and damp early on, then turning hot through July and August before settling down to a fine finish, but most of the wines are simply not great. They are the result of great work, particularly in the cellar as this would have been a much more less satisfying vintage two decades ago, but they generally do not inspire except, once again, within the context of the vintage.
They are lower in alcohol than the 2011’s, and that is causing many to remark on their elegance, and classicism, as if lower alcohol is, of and by itself, a criteria for quality. We are told that this lends the wine elegance, which was one of the words Parker railed against early on in his career, code as it were for not fully ripe. Today this lower alcohol canard is trotted out simply to position the wines against the obviously higher alcohol 2011s, though with almost all alcohol levels registering between 14% and 15% this is not what anyone would really consider to be a low alcohol vintage.
One of the problems of the vintage is that many of the wines achieved this lower alcoholic level in balance with lower phenolic ripeness. Simply put many wines lack fruit and have tannins that are hard, bitter, or aggressive. Yes they can be viewed as elegant, but where is the joy in these wines? At their best they recall 1988s, stoic and balanced, destined to bloom in the cellar, but certainly not joyful today, which may be too much to ask for of young Barolo, but how about the promise of a little pleasure?
While 1988 is the vintage that springs to mind most often while tasting the 2012s, some wines seem more a hypothetical blend of the cool character of 2008 with the monolithic fruit of 2009. And those are the good examples. Looking back over the past decade I have to place 2012 tied for 2009 as the second least successful vintage after 2003, and not by a hair. I simply do not understand the high praise for so many of these wines and feel that we have returned to the world of wine criticism that Robert Parker saw in the early 1980s. A cacophony of criticism without meaning and utility for the end user.
Wine writers are not here to sing constant praise. Our number one responsibility is to point out pitfalls. Hell, most wines made today are good and enjoyable, and that goes for the 2012 Baroli as well, but that is all they are. The days of telling you about defective wines is largely passed, it’s now time to be more precise with our assessments of wines and to differentiate between vintages. That seems to rarely, if ever, be the case.
So here’s my bottom line on 2012. Some wines are fun to drink, seemingly from a cool vintage with moderate alcohol and crisp acids, though there are also some hard tannins lurking about. At first glance they texturally resemble the 2008s, though without the explosive aromatics of that vintage. They are red fruited and fresh, but simple and without the depth of a better vintage. In that regard they are very similar to the 2009s, though expressing fruit in a cooler register. I would say that qualitatively they are on par with 2009, though stylistically more to my liking.
As I wrote about the 2009s, I will have to write about the 2012s. Some producers nailed the vintage, that is the nature of the beast, but a far greater number have produced lovely if modest wines that are ideally suited for restaurant lists, and early consumption. In my opinion the greatness of Barolo lies in what it becomes, not what it is, and I can very well be wrong here, but my experience tells me that there is modest potential in many 2012s. It is always claimed by critics that they score wine on potential. The point score is what they expect the wine to be at maturity. I simply do not see the potential in many of these wines that would merit excellent and exceptional point scores.
In addition to the lack of complexity many wines exhibit, and the not quite ripe tannins that seem pervasive, many wines also drop off on the back end with insufficient fruit to cover their structure. This was also the case with the 1988s, and while time has remedied that in many cases with that vintage, the world of Piedmontese winemaking was also different back then. Few winemakers tried to play to the strengths of the vintage back then. They were without the luxury of experience and technology that we enjoy today, so they made their wines in the same style as more powerful and better balanced vintages. The results were wines that were tough and ungenerous on release, but with the stuffing to age. What I see too often with 2012s are wines that have the tannins to age but the fruit for more immediate enjoyment. I expect we’ll see lots of tannic 2012s in a decade that offer little pleasure to the consumer.
You’ll see from the wines below that I have tasted some rather obscure producers, as well as some rather famous ones. It’s easy to dismiss all of my opinion as being skewed by these wines but please keep in mind that I have been tasting these wines from botte for a year or two, and from some very reputable cellars such as Guido Porro, Giuseppe Rinaldi, Brovia, and Burlotto. I am not writing this to be combative, or controversial. I am writing this today to offer the consumer another perspective, one that I believe is more realistic.
I took a lot of flack from fellow professionals when I came out early and strongly for the 2008s, and then last year received a fair amount of ridicule for my praise of the 2011s (they are delicious, aren’t they!), a vintage I continue to love and have increasing faith in. I’m not really interested in being part of the wine mafia, and I’m obviously not in this for the money. You can take my message or leave it, but don’t say you weren’t warned.
As to the weather, much has been said but I’ll just add the little I can from my chats with producers.
The winter of 2011-2012 was exceptionally cold with some of the coldest temps many people can remember along with heavy snowfall. The spring was ugly, cold and damp, lingering well into summer which arrived with a heat wave at the end of June. Flowering was disrupted in several vineyards, and Novello suffered from several bouts of hail, but the irregular season kept crop loads and berry size down so potential yields were normal to slightly below normal. From July on out it was more of a hot vintage, but the vines were well behind and the season was thus quite compressed, arguably not allowing the plants to mature with harmony.
The heat shut down vines in some areas, those with exceptional drainage, or what might be considered perfect expositions, though there was plenty of ground water available through most vineyards. Rains arrived during the first week of September, delivering four days of strong downfalls that revived the vines and set them up for a fine end to the season with moderate temperatures, good diurnal shifts, and relatively abundant yields.
Many producers harvested between October 10-20, which is a bit early from a historical perspective but, in reality, is the new normal. It all sounds good, but the season was compressed by several weeks and while the wines are for the most part structurally ripe they are simple, light, and elegant to use that most popular euphemism.
While there are some wines to buy in 2012, it is a vintage to buy very carefully. I would suggest you try before you buy and keep in mind that this is the most variable vintage I have ever tasted through. Vineyards are vitally important and even the best producers show unusually variability in their portfolios. It’s a vintage where a good dose of skepticism will serve the savvy consumer well.
One final note. Several people have asked my how I would rate the vintage as compared to other recent vintages. Here’s how I feel recent vintages stack up qualitatively. You might prefer one style over another but in my opinion here are the qualitative rankings for the past decade or so.
Exceptional vintages (96-100pts): (2013), 2010, 2006, 1999
Great vintages(93-95pts): 2011, 2008, 2001
Very good vintages (89-92pts): 2004, 2005
Good vintages (86-88pts): 2007, 2000
Acceptable vintages (83-85pts): 2012, 2009
Difficult vintages (<82pts) : 2003, 2002
Allow me to conclude with one final word/observation. 2013 is not yet in the bottle, but the botte samples I’ve tried have wowed me. I’ve been able to follow a number of wines since they finished fermentation and I can honestly say that many are the best wines I’ve tasted since I began botte tasting in Piemonte. Think of 2010s with more flesh and fruit. A little bit more similar to 1999s and 2006s but with better balance and finesse. It makes it all the more challenging to recommend buying the 2012s, and to all the producers out there I apologise for this. We are truly in a golden age for the wines of Piemonte!
Top Baker's Dozen of Barolo of 2012
2012 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera $65 93pts
2012 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi $75 93pts
2012 Giovanni Canonica Barolo Paiagallo $85 93pts
2012 E Pira Chiara Boschis Barolo Cannubi $100 93pts
2012 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo $130 93pts
2012 Vietti Barolo Brunate $160 93pts
2012 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero $70 92pts
2012 Brovia Barolo Rocche Castiglione $80 92pts
2012 Brovia Barolo Garblet Sue $80 92pts
2012 Oddero Barolo Rocche di Castiglione $80 92pts
2012 Oberto Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata $85 92pts
2012 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Tre Tine $100 92pts
2012 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Francia $200 92pts
Just take a gander at the 2012 crop of Barolo. The scores are through the roof. These wines are just as good as virtually any produced since the back to back disasters of 2002-2003. At least that’s what the hype machine would have you believe.
Caveat emptor.
It’s not true, sadly not true. As much as I hate doing what I’m about to do, I’m going to have to give my unvarnished opinion on this difficult vintage. I fully understand how hard producers work, and I do believe that 2012 was a vintage that required excellent and diligent work in both the vineyards and the cellars, but far too often I find myself thinking of wines as a success within the context of the vintage. On the flip side of course is the consumer, who works equally diligently for their income and deserves straight talk, not recommendations mysteriously and implicitly weighted with regards to the context of the vintage.
2012 was a challenge, cold and damp early on, then turning hot through July and August before settling down to a fine finish, but most of the wines are simply not great. They are the result of great work, particularly in the cellar as this would have been a much more less satisfying vintage two decades ago, but they generally do not inspire except, once again, within the context of the vintage.
They are lower in alcohol than the 2011’s, and that is causing many to remark on their elegance, and classicism, as if lower alcohol is, of and by itself, a criteria for quality. We are told that this lends the wine elegance, which was one of the words Parker railed against early on in his career, code as it were for not fully ripe. Today this lower alcohol canard is trotted out simply to position the wines against the obviously higher alcohol 2011s, though with almost all alcohol levels registering between 14% and 15% this is not what anyone would really consider to be a low alcohol vintage.
One of the problems of the vintage is that many of the wines achieved this lower alcoholic level in balance with lower phenolic ripeness. Simply put many wines lack fruit and have tannins that are hard, bitter, or aggressive. Yes they can be viewed as elegant, but where is the joy in these wines? At their best they recall 1988s, stoic and balanced, destined to bloom in the cellar, but certainly not joyful today, which may be too much to ask for of young Barolo, but how about the promise of a little pleasure?
While 1988 is the vintage that springs to mind most often while tasting the 2012s, some wines seem more a hypothetical blend of the cool character of 2008 with the monolithic fruit of 2009. And those are the good examples. Looking back over the past decade I have to place 2012 tied for 2009 as the second least successful vintage after 2003, and not by a hair. I simply do not understand the high praise for so many of these wines and feel that we have returned to the world of wine criticism that Robert Parker saw in the early 1980s. A cacophony of criticism without meaning and utility for the end user.
Wine writers are not here to sing constant praise. Our number one responsibility is to point out pitfalls. Hell, most wines made today are good and enjoyable, and that goes for the 2012 Baroli as well, but that is all they are. The days of telling you about defective wines is largely passed, it’s now time to be more precise with our assessments of wines and to differentiate between vintages. That seems to rarely, if ever, be the case.
So here’s my bottom line on 2012. Some wines are fun to drink, seemingly from a cool vintage with moderate alcohol and crisp acids, though there are also some hard tannins lurking about. At first glance they texturally resemble the 2008s, though without the explosive aromatics of that vintage. They are red fruited and fresh, but simple and without the depth of a better vintage. In that regard they are very similar to the 2009s, though expressing fruit in a cooler register. I would say that qualitatively they are on par with 2009, though stylistically more to my liking.
As I wrote about the 2009s, I will have to write about the 2012s. Some producers nailed the vintage, that is the nature of the beast, but a far greater number have produced lovely if modest wines that are ideally suited for restaurant lists, and early consumption. In my opinion the greatness of Barolo lies in what it becomes, not what it is, and I can very well be wrong here, but my experience tells me that there is modest potential in many 2012s. It is always claimed by critics that they score wine on potential. The point score is what they expect the wine to be at maturity. I simply do not see the potential in many of these wines that would merit excellent and exceptional point scores.
In addition to the lack of complexity many wines exhibit, and the not quite ripe tannins that seem pervasive, many wines also drop off on the back end with insufficient fruit to cover their structure. This was also the case with the 1988s, and while time has remedied that in many cases with that vintage, the world of Piedmontese winemaking was also different back then. Few winemakers tried to play to the strengths of the vintage back then. They were without the luxury of experience and technology that we enjoy today, so they made their wines in the same style as more powerful and better balanced vintages. The results were wines that were tough and ungenerous on release, but with the stuffing to age. What I see too often with 2012s are wines that have the tannins to age but the fruit for more immediate enjoyment. I expect we’ll see lots of tannic 2012s in a decade that offer little pleasure to the consumer.
You’ll see from the wines below that I have tasted some rather obscure producers, as well as some rather famous ones. It’s easy to dismiss all of my opinion as being skewed by these wines but please keep in mind that I have been tasting these wines from botte for a year or two, and from some very reputable cellars such as Guido Porro, Giuseppe Rinaldi, Brovia, and Burlotto. I am not writing this to be combative, or controversial. I am writing this today to offer the consumer another perspective, one that I believe is more realistic.
I took a lot of flack from fellow professionals when I came out early and strongly for the 2008s, and then last year received a fair amount of ridicule for my praise of the 2011s (they are delicious, aren’t they!), a vintage I continue to love and have increasing faith in. I’m not really interested in being part of the wine mafia, and I’m obviously not in this for the money. You can take my message or leave it, but don’t say you weren’t warned.
As to the weather, much has been said but I’ll just add the little I can from my chats with producers.
The winter of 2011-2012 was exceptionally cold with some of the coldest temps many people can remember along with heavy snowfall. The spring was ugly, cold and damp, lingering well into summer which arrived with a heat wave at the end of June. Flowering was disrupted in several vineyards, and Novello suffered from several bouts of hail, but the irregular season kept crop loads and berry size down so potential yields were normal to slightly below normal. From July on out it was more of a hot vintage, but the vines were well behind and the season was thus quite compressed, arguably not allowing the plants to mature with harmony.
The heat shut down vines in some areas, those with exceptional drainage, or what might be considered perfect expositions, though there was plenty of ground water available through most vineyards. Rains arrived during the first week of September, delivering four days of strong downfalls that revived the vines and set them up for a fine end to the season with moderate temperatures, good diurnal shifts, and relatively abundant yields.
Many producers harvested between October 10-20, which is a bit early from a historical perspective but, in reality, is the new normal. It all sounds good, but the season was compressed by several weeks and while the wines are for the most part structurally ripe they are simple, light, and elegant to use that most popular euphemism.
While there are some wines to buy in 2012, it is a vintage to buy very carefully. I would suggest you try before you buy and keep in mind that this is the most variable vintage I have ever tasted through. Vineyards are vitally important and even the best producers show unusually variability in their portfolios. It’s a vintage where a good dose of skepticism will serve the savvy consumer well.
One final note. Several people have asked my how I would rate the vintage as compared to other recent vintages. Here’s how I feel recent vintages stack up qualitatively. You might prefer one style over another but in my opinion here are the qualitative rankings for the past decade or so.
Exceptional vintages (96-100pts): (2013), 2010, 2006, 1999
Great vintages(93-95pts): 2011, 2008, 2001
Very good vintages (89-92pts): 2004, 2005
Good vintages (86-88pts): 2007, 2000
Acceptable vintages (83-85pts): 2012, 2009
Difficult vintages (<82pts) : 2003, 2002
Allow me to conclude with one final word/observation. 2013 is not yet in the bottle, but the botte samples I’ve tried have wowed me. I’ve been able to follow a number of wines since they finished fermentation and I can honestly say that many are the best wines I’ve tasted since I began botte tasting in Piemonte. Think of 2010s with more flesh and fruit. A little bit more similar to 1999s and 2006s but with better balance and finesse. It makes it all the more challenging to recommend buying the 2012s, and to all the producers out there I apologise for this. We are truly in a golden age for the wines of Piemonte!
Top Baker's Dozen of Barolo of 2012
2012 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera $65 93pts
2012 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi $75 93pts
2012 Giovanni Canonica Barolo Paiagallo $85 93pts
2012 E Pira Chiara Boschis Barolo Cannubi $100 93pts
2012 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo $130 93pts
2012 Vietti Barolo Brunate $160 93pts
2012 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero $70 92pts
2012 Brovia Barolo Rocche Castiglione $80 92pts
2012 Brovia Barolo Garblet Sue $80 92pts
2012 Oddero Barolo Rocche di Castiglione $80 92pts
2012 Oberto Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata $85 92pts
2012 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Tre Tine $100 92pts
2012 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Francia $200 92pts
Producers tasted for this report
Ascheri
Oberto Walter Lodali Pio Cesare Cascina Ballarin Einaudi Brezza Burlotto Sandrone Gemma Sobrero |
E Pira Chiara Boschis
Giovanni Canonica Bartolo Mascarello Stefano Oreste Giuseppe Rinaldi Ferdinando Principiano Giorgio Pira Giacomo Conterno Guido Porro Barale Cascina Fontana |
Giacomo Fenocchio
G.D. Vajra Baudana Massolino Elvio Cogno Cavallotto Luigi Oddero Prunotto Brovia Vietti Oddero |
A few general observations on producers
Oddero - These wines are becoming brutally tannic, though the 2012s show less aggressively than the 2011s. I hope this is just a hiccup here but I am concerned.
Luigi Oddero - Great things are in the works here and the addition of Dante Scaglione to the winemaking team only makes it more likely as the utterly gorgeous Freisa and Barbera from 2013 attest to.
Massolino - On the cusp of moving up to super seconds territory. I love the direction the wines are going in
Cascina Ballarin - I don’t know why this cantina is not more widely known. The wines show great consistency and have never failed to impress me for their quality and accessibility.
Sandrone - A pair of finely wrought wines that play to the strengths of the vintage affirms Sandrone’s place among the top producers in the region. Not usually to my style but these are fine wines.
Luigi Oddero - Great things are in the works here and the addition of Dante Scaglione to the winemaking team only makes it more likely as the utterly gorgeous Freisa and Barbera from 2013 attest to.
Massolino - On the cusp of moving up to super seconds territory. I love the direction the wines are going in
Cascina Ballarin - I don’t know why this cantina is not more widely known. The wines show great consistency and have never failed to impress me for their quality and accessibility.
Sandrone - A pair of finely wrought wines that play to the strengths of the vintage affirms Sandrone’s place among the top producers in the region. Not usually to my style but these are fine wines.
Ascheri
2012 Ascheri Barolo 14%
20 months ageing in 60% new Slovenian botte
Fleshy and leathery on the nose with pure, deep aromas of rose petals and cinnamon spice. Supple, on entry with delicate tannins and balanced acidity supporting flavors of licorice, fennel, and a hint of tomato adding detail to a tight core of wild cherries and strawberry in alcohol fruit that shows fine purity. The delicate tannins linger on the gums. 87pts
2012 Ascheri Pisapola Verduno 14%
This underwent 12-13 days maceration instead of closer to three weeks to respect the velvety character and elegance of the vintage. One third new botte, one third used, one third in SS,
Opening with lovely aromas that are floral and then rich with dark dried strawberry fruit, spicy soil tones that hint at sandiness, and a nuance of smoke. Perhaps a touch soft on entry, then broad in the mouth and rather rich with hints of cola and spice over dried strawberry fruity. Spicy and zesty with decent length but very front loaded today, small scaled and a bit compact today, though it retains a lovely spice to the fruit, and chewiness of tannin through the modest finish. 86pts
2012 Ascheri Barolo Sorano 14%
Dark, earthy and spicy on the nose with medicinal notes, saddle leather, hay and dried herbs over dark cherry fruit. In the mouth this is powerful, round, and yet structured with lots of ripe tannins and good supporting acids. Even then it feels a touch relaxed in the mouth, though with lovely depth, hints of balsamic spice, briar, and dark fruit lingering on the long finish. Very well done. 90pts
Oberto
2012 Oberto Barolo La Morra 14.5%
A biti tight on the nose, though, elegant and light with floral, camphor, and dusty spice backing notes and just an edge of nicely judged oak. Taut in the mouth and clear on the palate, with light, mineral laced cherry fruit showing excellent integration. Tannic, austere, and long, this is a rather grand package, that seems much more old school than simply lean and focused from the vintage. There’s plenty of ripe fruit here along with a hint of nuttiness. 90pts
2012 Oberto Barolo Albarella 15%
Small berry fruit in alcohol greets the nose followed by burnished fruit, heavy rose petals, and women's perfume but the expensive stuff. This does smell great. Moderately rich in the mouth with more burnished fruit that follows the nose. This is more complete but less elegant than the base barolo, a bit minty in the mouth, tannins are ripe and well managed though the drop off of the burnished and leathery fruit on the palate leaves one with a mouthful of briary tannins on the admittedly long finish. There's a nice hint of cherry fruit late on the palate and this might come together but today it's dropping the fruit. 84pts
2012 Oberto Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata. 15%
Killer nose, here we have fruit, roses, cinnamon spice, and a hint of beefy fleshiness and bbq smoke nuance. On the palate one finds a smooth, polished, ripe style of wine, very La Morra with fine grained tannins that are ripe and suave. The fruit is present with subtle red berry notes and fine soil tones, along with that spice note remains on the finish with lovely cherry fruit, and spices pick up a little green herbal quality on the back end and through the long finish. This is classic and surprisingly tannic; a powerful wine with fine cut and length. 92pts
Walter Lodali
2012 Walter Lodali Barolo Bricco Ambrogio 14%
Very pretty nose with lovely, complex aromas of fruit, meaty spice and dried floral notes. In the mouth this is a bit simple but very attractive, hiting all the right notes, it does show a bit evolved perhaps but the complexity is appealing, in a soft, open style, lovely depth, fine immediacy, ripe tannins, clean, correct, fairly precise, good acid drive. 86pts
2012 Walter Lodali Barolo Lorenz 15%
24-30 months in a blend of barrique and 30% tonneaux
Candied on the nose, with aroams that show more of a candied herbal quality. Weird and in need of air, this is soft and broad in the mouth with tannins that are more present early on the palate. Finishing with a fine and elegant feel and with good power on the palate, this strikes me as a bit discombobulated. JR
Pio Cesare
2012 Pio Cesare Barolo
This was just bottled, a bit damaged but the bottling shows lots of evolution on the nose, with tea leaves, leather, old pipe tobacco. Good acids welcome the palate, followed by soft tannins supporting a nice kernel of fruit in the mouth. There’s some nice detail surrounding that fruit, with fine ripe tannins supporting traditional cherry flavors. 86pts
2012 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato barrique sample
A bit reticent at first then this turns very floral on the nose, still with obvious oak but it is better integrated than previous vintages though it still shows that sour vinyl note and spicy accents. Soft in the mouth, surprisingly so, round, elegant and fine, if a bit simple. A nice, rather gentle and elegant expression of Ornato. Very typical of the vintage, good length, clean and fresh if not terribly complex. 88pts
Cascina Ballarin
2012 Cascina Ballarin Barolo Tre Ciabot 14.5%
Violative and earthy, on the nose with aromas that are strongly suggestive of underbrush and incipient truffle. This is very front loaded in the mouth, with ripe if bristly tannins and lots of acidity supporting earthy flavors. Surprisingly old school and classic in style but not the best quality, though this finishes with impressive length. 83pts
2012 Cascina Ballarin Barolo Bussia 14.5%
70% new French barrique
Oak is well absorbed lending sweetness on the nose to the sweet wild cherry fruit,. This is spiky on the palate with a thin layer of burnished fruit draped over acid suspension. Tannins are present but not intrusive, elegant in the mouth as it slowly gains length and nuance. The fruit is transparent and tightly coiled but the beauty here today is for the balance and incipient finesse. 88pts
2012 Cascina Ballarin Barolo Bricco Rocca 14.5%
26 months in slavonian oak 10HL-20HL
Meaty and spicy on the nose with lots of smoky character that could be terroir driven. In the mouth this is elegant, round, and open, very La Morra like with some added power and tannins that recalls Brunate. It’s a bit evolved though admirably rich on the back end, and transparent through the palate with some minerality adding detail on the finale. Looks like it will come together well. 88pts
Einaudi
2012 Einaudi Barolo Terlo 14.5%
Pretty nose, shows a line of oak framing briary pipe notes, crushed lingonberry fruit, and low balsamic accents. Tight on entry and well knit, with fine balance if on the tart, leaner side of things. Leathery and nutty flavors on the palate yield to red fruit particularly notably on the finish. Tannins are a bit dry, this shows decent length and seems to need time to come together but remains promising if small scaled. 87pts
2012 Einaudi Barolo Terlo Costa Grimaldi 14.5%
Herbal and spicy on the nose with layers of camphor, arugula and geranium laced with a fine mineral note and light astringent red berry fruits. A bit pillowy on entry then this gain focus in the mouth with strawberry in alcohol and cranberry fruit flavors, rose hips, astringent fruit and camphor in the mouth. Tannic and dry in the mouth, this feels lean and tannic, though the sneaky length shows a light hightoned and fragrant quality, but this is on the tougher side for this bottling. 87pts
2012 Einaudi Barolo Cannubi 14.5%
Dusty rose petals greet the nose and while one can sense the ripeness on the nose here, red fruited with a touch of candied Xmas spice, there’s very little overt fruit coming out now. Very refined in the mouth, focused with ripe tannins, open and broad but structured and they've manage a laciness here that is difficult in the vintage. There’s good depth on the palate, which is just a little simple perhaps, but this remains balanced, nuanced, and classic Cannubi of elegance and refinement. This will age well, if perhaps quickly as it already shows incipient tobacco notes. 91pts
Brezza
2012 Brezza Barolo Cannubi 14%
Intensely aromatic with effusive aromas of rosebuds. Ripe and rounded in style, with fine grained tannins that are submerged under the light, elegant fruit. The backend shows more ripeness, a hint of jamminess even and lovely white soil tones before yielding to the finish. The tannins, ripe yet classic dry and austere, really clamp down on the finish with a hint of heat and spice, all tightly focused and folded in on itself. The texture here is very fine and this is already showing well. 91pts
2012 Brezza Barolo Sarmassa 14.5%
Exhibiting super classic aromas of rosehips and cherries in alcohol, the nose here is marred by a whisper of heat, Opulent in the mouth, round and supple with dusty tannins that are ripe and yet slightly bristly. This seems a bit more traditional than the Cannubi but at the same time it lacks the purity of fruit found in that bottling. Dark a bit chewy and somewhat simple this should benefit from bottle age. 87pts
Burlotto
2012 Burlotto Barolo 14%
Minty and floral with fine wild berry and lime marmalade top notes over a balsamic base with incipient nots of porcini. Bright on entry with small tannins leaving an elegant impression in the mouth, a touch simple perhaps, and lacking the inner mouth perfumes this wine is capable of, as well as a touch drying on the finish, this is all too typical of the vintage, exhibiting finesse, elegance, fruit in a cool register but lacking aromatics and oomph. 85pts
2012 Burlotto Barolo Aclivi 14%
Macerated floral notes, mint, a suggestion of pomegranate and blood orange greet the nose followed by mineral earth that is almost chalky, and hints of blue fruit, sandalwood and pollen. Lovely on entry, complete and integrated with hints of watermelon rind lacing the entry, supported by soft tannins well balanced but present fruit and integrated acids. This has a fine bitter edge to it on the palate with dusty, dry tannins emerging on the backend, finishing firm and vibrant with a spicy character. 89pts
2012 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero 14%
A bit spicier than usual, more cinnamon, quinine, poppy seeds and truffle less overtly strawberry fruited, more orange rind and herbal. The elegant, fine acid driven mid palate is taut and lean with great minerality, more transparent than usual at this stage with lovely silky fruit and fine tannins that are rich but not aggressive. Powerful finish even though there too this is less about the fruit this year or at this stage, very fine, long lots or reverb on the finale with notes of tea, flowers, and pink peppercorn spice. 92pts
2012 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi 14%
Intense aromatics, spicy and dark with huge roses and herb fleshed aromas, super defined , red cherry fruit, with a cherries jubilee edge, In the mouth this is precise and focused with gorgeous depth; a rich, tense wine, built on fine grained tannins with superb elegance and austerity. Long if monotone on the finish packed with sour cherries, limestone and dusty soil,tones. Perhaps a little chewy but with superb elegance and austerity, great length to the soil tones, chalky finale, textbook Cannubi. 93pts
Sandrone
2012 Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne
A little smoky on the nose with hints of seashells, sweet cranberry fruit and very perfumed floral notes. A very elegant, pretty wide open wine on the palate featuring good acids, soft tannins, and tart red fruit; this is elegant and fairly fruit driven but very red fruited, with fine inner mouth perfumes. Tannins build on the finish, which is tense, and surprisingly transparent. A bit simple but with good cut and freshness. 90pts
2012 Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis.
Nicely aromatic,shows a hint of wood spice but also dried lemon peel, orange peel, and high toned red fruit. Again a rather elegant, wine proving this to be a rather successful vintage at Sandrone in that the wines are transparent and red fruited. The tannins turn a touch crude on the backend with nice soil tones and floral ivy notes adding to the expressive nature here. A decidedly transparent expression from a producer that tends more toward powerful extraction of fruit, this is a refreshing change with room for improvement. 91pts
Gemma
2012 Gemma Barolo 14%
Fruit from Serralunga, Monforte, La Morra, vinified separate, wood separate, 75% 20HL-30HL, the rest tonneaux and barrique
Smoky, on the nose low on fruit but bright, a bit stemmy with hints of lingonberry fruit and a note of varnish wood. Round on entry and a bit fleshy even, in a supple style though a bit of a ball on a rope in the mouth, with a pop of burnished fruit and leathery nuance with little attack of finish. Clean and fresh, and entirely approachable with a sweetness from alcohol and firm but not stubborn tannins make this pleasant and easy. 84pts
2012 Gemma Barolo Colarej 14%
Classic nose is all cherries in alcohol and slightly medicinal earthy spice. with a lick of new oak. Round sweet and approachable, with sharp acids, soft tannins in a juicy style with a hint of meatiness on the palate. This is vibrant if a bit monolith, but well made with a simple core of fruit and decent length. 85pts
Sobrero
2012 Sobrero Barolo Ciabot Tasinero 14%
Rose petals on the nose are followed by a sweet, slightly jam note of earthy, dark cherries and sweet tobacco aromas. Smooth and polished in the mouth, a bit too polished, and even though there are good supporting acids this starts out soft with glycerin rounded corners turning suitably tannic and austere on the back end with burnished cherry roll ups and some earthy pine cone balsamic notes. Finishes a bit too austere and dry 83pts
E Pira Chiara Boschis
All vinified the same way, destemed but not crushed, roto 10-12 days, at 28 degrees, 4 turns a day, and one pump over a day,
Cannubi is more botte and a little barrique, Via Nuova half and half, Mosconi all barrique 20-25 new,
2012 E Pira Chiara Boschis Barolo Via Nuova 14.5%
A vineyard blend including grapes from Via Nuova, Liste, Gabbuti, Baudana, Ravera and a little Mosconi.
Dark and fruity on the nose with a noticeable hint of wood spice that's a touch raw here, thought the macerated flowers, menthol, and rosehip aromas cover most of the spice. Nice and lively in the mouth, though still dark and a bit dull, with matte, slightly chewy fruit laid over fine grained tannins and a good acidic spine. This is well knit, with a dark core of fruit laced with limestone leading to a powerful finish, but it's also a bit coarse, uncharacteristically so. 87pts
2012 E Pira Chiara Boschis Barolo Cannubi 14.5%
Finely focused on the nose showing some wood sweetness over the lightly candied cherry fruit with hints of dusty white earth, porcini, and thistle. Elegant, lean, and focused on entry with good acidity and fine grained tannins keeping this lively in the mouth. Pure, dusty light red fruit with leafy and rosebud edges fairly floats over the palate with incipient balsamic edges and fine energy that powers the long finish. Super well done, just classic cannubi tannins, bright, dusty and fine. 93pts
2012 E Pira Chiara Boschis Barolo Mosconi 14.5%
Fruity and balsamic notes streak the nose, which shows a core of cedary spice and sweet nutty oak. Soft, supple, round and flannely in the mouth with classic herbal nuance and dark cherry fruit as well as lots of cinnamon spice. Tannins are powerful and dry, classic in a small way but this feels tight and closed, chewy, then falling off on the back end leaving a fair amount of prominent wood tannin and not much else. Should improve with time but is there enough fruit for the wood? 86pts
Giovanni Canonica
2012 Giovanni Canonica Barolo Grinzane Cavour 14.5%
First vintage, 50 year old, lots of rose clone in the vineyard,
Incredible fruit on the nose with fresh herb accents. The fruit explodes on the nose then fades leading to a palate with such tender tannins, surrounded by lovely small wild cherry fruit This is pure and elegant in the mouth with tannins are so supple, fine acids, making this absolutely clear on the palate with great delineation, good length. A Fine playful style, though the tannins build in the mouth as this gains weight and firmness. Very correct and classic, recalls the wines of Francesco Rinaldi a bit, though there is this vague rubbery note that comes and goes in the mouth. 91pts
2012 Giovanni Canonica Barolo Paiagallo 14 5%
Deep, dark fruit on the nose, rich with wild cherry, deep herbal note flecked with licorice, ginseng, and fennel topped with violet and iris accents. Aromatically this is terrific and it is bright and vivid on entry rich with pinpoint fine tannins. Broader shoulders and a tighter waist in the mouth, there is great drive and energy on the finely focused finish. Gorgeous noble tannins, tension, a real.beaut that turns very aromatic on the finale. 93pts
Bartolo Mascarello
2012 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 14%
A bit savory with a light and lovely spicy plummy, wild cherry in alcohol, jammy raspberry fruit melange that retains freshness. Here one finds a sweetness early on the palate, very good tannic tension in the mouth and through the finish, with a bit of sweet red floral notes on the finale. This has a fine mineral edge, and is bright and lifted in the mouth, so perfumed, and really very fine. Just lovely, precise, and complete if without the depth of the best vintages. 93pts
Stefano Oreste
2012 Stefano Oreste Barolo Perno 14%
Dark. Earthy, a bit tarry and spicy,on the nose with a fine core of competing fruity and floral tones. A sweetly fruited style of wine that is relatively open and fruity with a base of strawberry fruit. Bright on entry and fairly rich with a vibrancy on the palate that transcends the vintage. Nicely juicy, though the tannins seem just a bit dry and woody but are well integrated, nice burnished fruit and rose petal finale. This lacks a bit of the backend, but the modest finish reveals a light mineral notes with fine sour cherry with a liquory quality to the fruit but not heavy or viscous at all. Eminently drinkable for the vintage with a lot of glycerin for the vintage. Ripe tannins, gains length with air and the nose grows with menthol and nettle notes. An impressive showing in a very fruity style. 88pts
Giuseppe Rinaldi
2012 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Tre Tine 14%
60 Ravera, 20/20 Cannubi le Coste
Little bit of hail July and August but like a green harvest with 20/25% reduction from 2011
Fruity and bright on the nose with a sweetness backing up the austere fruit character accented by hints of tar and roses. This is lively in the mouth, even a bit fleshy with lovely balance and freshness to the fruit. Surprisingly fruity in nature, even almost grapey, with ripe tannins and fine energy driving the moderately long finish, it presents as very well integrated and long with a fine persistence across the palate. Fairly seamless. 92pts
2012 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate 14%
15% Le Coste
Dark with sandalwood, geranium, and rosehip accents to the spicy dark core of fruit, on the nose. One gets the impression that this is denser and tighter than the Tre Tine simply from the nose. Round in the mouth, but not fat but fatter with richer fruit but less energy than the Tre Tine. The fruit is rich, dark wild berry fruit, showing good length, but the tannins here are coarser, lending this a compact feel without the elegance and length of the Tre Tine. 91pts
Ferdinando Principiano
2012 Ferdinando Principiano Barolo Serralunga 13.5%
Fresh on the nose, cool even with elegant perfumes of soil, spice, and fresh red fruits. This opens with lovely brightness and clarity on the palate, as are many wines from this vintage it’s a bit simple perhaps, but this is lively and pure with a playful coy character on the palate, nice finish with fine grained tannins. An elegant and supple wine that plays to the strengths of the vintage. 90pts
2012 Ferdinando Principiano Barolo Ravera 13.5%
Very chinato driven aromatics are sicy and deep with layers of ginseng, pollen, nettles, and medicinal herbs. Opening on an astringent note, this quickly fills out with lots of up front fruit that is bright and rich all supported by tannins that are ripe and soft. It’s an elegant wine, but without much follow through in the mouth, it really retains the herbal notes of Monforte through the mouth. 87pts
Giorgio Pira
2012 Giorgio Pira Barolo Bricco Laut 14.5%
Bottled five weeks ago
Tight little nose showing fine rose petals and nutmeg spice on the nose, with menthol and candied black licorice base notes, and hints of mint and herb. . Elegant on entry with, fine inner mouth perfumes that are on the medicinal side of cherry, good acids and soft tannins lending a lightness on the palate and good fresh character but it does exhibit the monolithic and matte favors of 2012. Tannins are fresh and while present and obvious not intrusive on the moderately long finish, a bit too 2012 but well made in its style. 84pts
Giacomo Conterno
2012 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Francia 14.5-15%
Explosive on the nose and rich with hints of gunpowder, middle eastern spice, small black cherry fruit, a bit of meat and peppery spice, though it tightens up quickly. Austere and classic in the mouth with ripe but powerful tannins that turn drying on the backend, then dusty with some sweetness on the long finish. The aromas of rose petal and meat juices grow with air, as the nose becomes more elegant and floral with iris and wild cherry fruit perfumes in the mouth. This too is a bit simple, very fine but without the depth of a better vintage, and showing some herbal complexity on the finish, but with the tannins just a tough and dry. 92pts
Guido Porro
2012 Guido Porro Gianetto Barolo 14.5%
15-20 days three year in botte. A little sand which keeps it softe,
Huge fruity nose with braised fennel, meaty aromas and wild cherry fruit, intense and complex. Velvety but tannic in the mouth, with lots of licorice and dark cherry fruit with a hint of chalky minerality. This has an old school feel, long and angularly tannic with dark flavors, showing a very minty and herbal core, but this has fruit in reserve. Will require time, I'm unsure about this right now as it's so rich it is challenging to drink, but expect that time will be kind here, but this always be a powerful wine. 86pts
2012 Guido Porro Barolo Santa Caterina 14.5%
Showing classic aromas of cherry skin, cherry in alcohol, spicy mineral, cool mint and rose petals on the nose. In the mouth one finds a nice core of cherry fruit contrasting with bitter licorice notes along the edges and a hint of florality on the backend. There’s good persistence to the fruit which is tart, though it remains a bit dry and slightly tough with a meatiness about it. A nicely detailed wine, with fine perfumes, though it needs time for the tannins to soften and integrate. Another large scaled wine from this vintage that might have been better in a gentler style. 87pts
2012 Guido Porro Barolo Lazzairasco 14.5%
Lots of fruit on the nose, very ripe fruit that leans more towards dried dates and carob as opposed to the dark cherry and dark chocolate covered cherry fruit which makes up the rest of the nose. In the mouth this is showing more than a little Mon Cheri candy going on with lots of maraschino cherry in the mouth. On entry this is rounded with lots of flavor, but the palate quickly turns dark and earthy with the monolithic dark fruit of the vintage. Tannins are taut and acidity well integrated but this still feels quite crude in the mouth with attractive mineral notes on the mid palate and a spicy finish helping to break up all that dark fruit. 84pts
Barale
2012 Barale Barolo 13.5%
Tight on the nose with strong aromas of black tea and hints of gunpowder, small lingonberry jammy notes. Decidedly pale in color with soft tannins and lots of acidity supporting bright lean fruit. This is woodsy, balsamic, and faintly medicinal in the mouth exhibiting modest length, and an austere feel. There’s not much pleasure at this point but intellectual interest, this is certainly well made with some sweetness, but the finish is raw, spiky and very front loaded. As the wine sits it exhibits more tannic bite with old school tannins supporting black tea notes in the mouth with a hint of gunpowder, even the finish gains length and richness but this is not a fruity wine. A classic savory Barolo. 85pts
Cascina Fontana
2012 Cascina Fontana Barolo 14%
Very aromatic, a little gummy fruity on the nose with some spearmint accents and floral notes in a sweet spice violet chewing gum kind of way. Finely textured on entry, quite open and fresh in the mouth, and while small scaled fine acids really lend this lift on the palate. Showing some depth and elegance in the mouth, it remains a bit short right now but length should come, as the finish is sneaky with a return of red fruit on the finale,. Obviously young but already balanced with ripe tannins and red cherry life saver fruit accented with tobacco and dried herbs that are already slipping through on the nose. This might be a little simple after all but is a pleasure to drink. Won’t be a long ager but this much fun deserves immediacy. 90pts
Giacomo Fenocchio
2012 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Bussia 90di
A little dark fruit emerges on the subdued nose. In the mouth this is very pretty with lots of fresh fruit early on the palate but it lacks follow through. There’s a tight lovely texture but the tannins cover the flavors on the backend. A slightly chewy and tannic wine with a coarse texture to the tannins, though there is a lovely liquory base of fruit here that may emerge after some serious ageing. 86pts
2012 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Cannubi 14%
Pure cherry in alcohol greets the nose followed by lovely hints of sweet herbs and black spices over dusty soil tones In line with the vintage this is smaller scaled, and gentle in texture while remains ripe and a perhaps a bit soft even with its fine tannin base. There is good fruit here typical but with a somewhat soft voice, yielding to drying tannins on the finish, which is a bit coarse if rich with slightly jammy strawberry fruit. 87pts
2012 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Castellero 14%
More high toned perfumes greet the nose which quickly turns a bit brambly with hints of tobacco smoke and a certain meatiness to the gummi dark berry fruit with an edge of plumminess and some polleny floral tones. Rather complete and impressively complex on the nose. While showing good freshness in the mouth with fine acidic verve, fine balance, and a bright small ball of fruit, this too turns tannic on the finish, which admittedly exhibits good length. Showing better today than the Cannubi with richer fruit showing more raspberry notes and a lovely spiciness and incipient balsamic notes that seems to bring together the best of Cannubi and Bussia. 90pts
2012 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Villero 14%
Lovely on the nose, high toned, with hints of plums, prunes,darker soil, tobacco and smoky and dusty rose petal. This is wide open in the mouth but tannic, with a long tannic persistence lending it a rich and slightly chewy feel. While lovely early on the palate, the fruit thins out on the midpalate turning nutty and tannic, though mostly ripe tannin, leading to a modest finish which shows slightly creamy black cherry fruit and a suggestion of heat. 86pts
2012 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Bussia 14%
Dusky with notes of underbrush, dark fruit, poppy seeds, spicy with a dried fruit character on the nose. A bit minty on entry with smooth, ripe tannins, in a rich, somewhat chewy style that highlights dark fruit. Good acidic drive in the mouth keeps the dark fruit fresh and while a bit plump this is very well balanced, retaining a deft sense of elegance. A bit simple but complete with good length and ripe, fine grained tannins lingering on the finale. 87pts
G.D. Vajra
2012 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe
Barolo di Barolo Fossati, Coste de Vergne, la Volta all high altitude, 20-30 years, three different expositions
Fruity on the nose with hints of camphor and dried rose petals adding detail. There's a little sweet and spicy, character here that almost seems to be showing a hint of oak spice. Light on the palate, wide open and playful in the mouth, not tough or structured even if this has plenty of quite juicy acidity and a nice base of soft tannins. Fruity in the mouth and modestly complex, showing little savory accents on the modest finish. A pleasant, approachable, and a soft expression of Barolo. 87pts
2012 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole 14%
Quite fruity on the nose with classic tar and roses layered over the fruit laced with subtle balsamic undertones. Supple and elegant in the mouth in a transparent and finely textured style with pinpoint tannins and juicy acids supporting slightly astringent cranberry tinged raspberry fruit. This drops off on the finish a bit leaving delicate tannins on the finale A lovely, rose scented wine with elegant tannins and incipient finesse. 90pts
2012 G.D. Vajra Barolo Ravera 14%
Macerated herbs and spicy cherry fruit with hints of burnt orange rind, pebbles, and sandy soil tones greet the nose. Very cherried fruit pops on entry followed by a palate impression that is slippery and light. A lovely playful wine endowed with gentle red raspberry, wild strawberry, and amarena cherry fruit. In fact this is very fruity, though without being banal. The palate is rich with finely polished tannins that lend this a firm if lacy feel that carries on to the moderately long finish which lightly echoes the fruity palate with slightly medicinal accent notes. 89pts
Baudana
2012 Baudana Barolo Baudana 14.5%
Lovely darkly aromatic nose features medicinal and masculine, rosehips and sandalwood notes that are, nuanced and perfumed. Fresh acids great the mouth supporting dark yet vivid fruit in the mouth. The fine grained tannins are rather firm supporting with lots of dark fruit character on the palate, though this dips out on the backend of the palate and through the finish. A bit tough yet tight with nice energy on the backend and rich fruit that builds on the palate along with lovely inner mouth perfumes. 88pts
2012 Baudana Barolo Cerretta 14.5%
A step up in aromatic depth and complexity with incipient notes of tea and tobacco, laced with hints of carob, dark stone, almost motor oil. This is powerfully aromatic and fills the mouth with a slightly chewy richness of fruit that nicely covers the fine, austere tannins and juicy acids. It finishes a bit short perhaps,and has that 2012 drop off on the backend, though it has a lot going on, still that drop off on the finish is slightly disappointing but this should come together nicely. 90pts
Massolino
2012 Massolino Barolo 14%
15-18 days maceration
Dark, deep aromatics of earth, tar, wild grass, some prune plummy fruit a hint of mint gain freshness in the glass as eucalyptus, rose petals, and candied citron peels enter the mix. Fairly rich for the vintage in a balanced, bright style with ripe tannins. There is lovely complexity in the mouth, along with great texture and balance for a Classico The tannins are ripe and fine, lingering on the finish with nice fruit before turning just a touch dry. This is quite classic and a strong showing for the vintage. 90pts
2012 Massolino Margheria Barolo 14%
Lots of slightly jammy wild strawberry fruit greets the nose followed by a touch of menthol with hints of medicinal fennel frond and a touch of iron,a very fragrant wine. This offers up an added layer of richness on the palate with fine depth to the decidedly mineral palate impression that is lively and balanced with tannins that are a little dry, lending a saline note on the backend to all the dark cherry and strawberry fruit. Medium bodied with some elegance but just a bit tannic and dry, still this has most of the pieces in place, not significantly better than the Classico but texturally different with more cut and tension in the mouth. 90pts
2012 Massolino Parafada Barolo 14%
Gorgeous on the nose, redolent of red licorice, fruity in a red licorice red currant jam, then turning minty, with nuanced sassafras, candied citron peel, tar and camphor notes. A decidedly ripe wine with more fruit than the Margheria as well as, a step up in clarity on the palate. There's a delicacy here to the power, tannins seem better integrated and softer, supporting delineated wild cherry fruit and while this drops off a touch on the backend and lacks great complexity on the palate, it finishes with great length and drive on the sandy, mineral laced finish. Really lovely old school style reminds me of 1982 tannins. 91pts
2012 Massolino Parussi Barolo 14%
Sweet fruit on the nose recalls strawberries with hints of violets, there’s more of a candied tone on the nose here with candied cherries with a hint of tar and mint. Soft yet chewy style more broad shouldered in the mouth featuring red fruit that is fresh and astringent, supported by austere tannins, with a slightly loosely knit but tannic feel that leads to a long finish with briary tannins. A bit raw when compared with Parafada and a bit hot with, chewy tannins. 88pts
Elvio Cogno
2012 Elvio Cogno Barolo Cascina Nuova 14.5%
This has lots of fruit one the nose, roses and cherries with hightoned, more exotic notes of pomegranate and grapey purple fruit. Fresh and youthful on entry with a pop of watermelon leading to a palate defined by fine tannins and good acids with fine medium bodied balance. Nicely taut in the mouth, this is rich with dark fruit, and dark, almost coffee tinged extract of dried roses in the mouth. Tannic and dry on the finish, which shows off richly burnished fruit, and tight, fairly important tannins. Elegant but decidedly masculine here, a powerful wine with austere tannins and dark fruit. 90pts
2012 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera 14.5%
Lampia Michet, 60/40
40 days, 24 months
Black cherries and tobacco pop from the glass with purity, intense and bright, adding nuanced crushed floral notes with a hint of geranium as it sits in the glass. This is a deep, chiseled wine, taut and almost a bit spicy on the palate with lots of clear, mineral tinged dark, muscular fruit with remarkable elegance While finely balanced, this is a powerful, tannic wine that is long and very fine. There was no shying away from going for broke here. 93pts
2012 Elvio Cogno Barolo Vigna Elena
Botte sample
Very soil driven and savory on the nose with elegant floral complexity to the minty fresh fruit aromatics. Taut in the mouth all red fruited, elegant and polished with real drive and energy on the palate. The ripe tannins are almost supple already, and while this has a little coarseness still on the backend, time should soften that right up revealing aromatics that are almost on par with the 2010, certaInly in style and purity, if not intensity. Long and quite fine. (91-94)
Cavallotto
2012 Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 14.5% botte sample
Dark and earthy on the nose, which features a meaty, meat extract quality laced with medicinal herbs. Soft and fruity up front, then turning quite broad across the palate. This offers up nice tension in the mouth but not much depth. There’s plenty of dark cherry fruit here, though without detail or depth and this is certainly less of a wine than 2011, similar in its fruit profile but coarser and simple. 86pts
Luigi Oddero
2012 Luigi Oddero Barolo
Santa Maria, Rocche Rivera, Belvedere in Baudana
40/30/30
Twenty twenty five, two years in botte of 20Hl-25Hl, then blend and one year in bottle,
Slightly herbal on the nose, but with nice cool red fruit, and while somewhat reticent, this reveals nuance nuanced with some hot iron notes and medicinal red cherry fruit. Open on the palate with impeccable balance. Rich with attractive fruit and tannins that are so well managed you miss them on the first go round, but this lacks a touch on the mid palate is is not terribly complex, and perhaps a bit short as well but still a pure, aromatic expression of Barolo given the vintage. Solid, and well done, if a bit more impressive up front than on the back end. 89pts
Prunotto
2012 Prunotto Barolo 13.5%
Mainly Monforte and Serralunga, from Bussia, Mosconi, Bricco Disa, eastern Serralunga below Gianetto, close to Ornato
Austere and astringent on the nose, with hints of smoke, hot iron, and citrus peels, almost pink grapefruity accents over a pink peppercorn spiced core of red fruit. A little glycerine rich early on the palate, then turning bright and juicy in the mouth with slightly under-ripe flavors of strawberry tops, alpine herbs, and a touch of sweet herbs all wrapped up in a, fairly gentle style with nice drying tannins on the finish. Already drinkable, an easy wine with authentic Barolo character. 87pts
Brovia
2012 Brovia Barolo Classico 14%
20%-30% remains of cru wines not used, the rest Brea younger vines, 25 years
Great aromatic depth on the nose rich with fresh, ripe cherry fruit,framed by hints of mint and herb with a sweet medicinal, powdery top notes. Direct and sweet on entry, this offers up lots of fruit, ripe tannins, and good acids, with nice midpalate depth, and emerging tobacco and powdery necco wafer nuance bringing up the back palate. With transparent bitter cherry fruit, this offers up a balanced, mid-weight, elegant yet fruity example of what can be achieved in 2012. 89pts
2012 Brovia Barolo Rocche Castiglione 14.5%
Impressive right off the bat with gorgeous rose petal aromas, decadent notes of wild flowers, small tight wild cherry fruit, hints of camphor and a touch of limestone. In the mouth this is austere, precise and elegant with nice tension in the mouth and pure limestone tannins gripping the cheeks. Showing fine fruit, light and elegant with hints of under ripe cherry skins and green herbal, green tea accents on the palate,leading to a long finish rich with burnished fruit. A touch crude right now, a bit small scaled as well, this is none the less a complete wine. Red licorice appears in the backend and through the finish along with hints of aggressiveness from the tannins. This shows signs of very early approachability and will probably be at it’s best in 8-12 years. 92pts
2012 Brovia Barolo Villero 14.5%
Less intense on the nose than it’s siblings, this opens with some cactus pad notes followed by rich raspberry and wild strawberry fruit. Nicely done with some subtle layered fruit on entry, this lacks the complexity and tension of the rocche. On entry the fruit pops in the mouth, broader and more polished in the mouth with supple tannins that are fine and ripe. A bit of a sandy texture marks the fairly floral finish,and while this is a bit simple and more 2012 in character it is quite good with more glycerine lending a touch of flesh on the midpalate. 91pts
2012 Brovia Barolo Garblet Sue 14.5%
Gorgeous on the nose, redolent of roses talc, hibiscus flowers, red berries, and just a hint of spice. This is really intensely floral, packed with the perfumes of sweet red flowers. Round, playful and open in the mouth, the palate doesn't quite live up to the nose, featuring fine austere tannins, it’s a bit simple but with a fairly complete ripeness profile, but lacking some depth, though there's lovely fruitiness on the moderately long finish. Once again tannins are just not quite ripe,though deep licorice and black cherry skin black cherry cola flavors are pretty profound on the finish. 92pts
2012 Brovia Barolo Brea Ca'mia 14.5%
Here we take another step up, lovely floral notes, spicy black cherry fruit, dusty dark soil tones, deep, masculine and complex, if a bit medicinal on the nose. Elegant fine and compact in the mouth, this has a lovely texture with good concentration of fruit, ripe tannins, fine acid balance. There’s a brightness to the fruit even if the flavors are classically dark cherry skin with a suggestion of plum, and offering great minerality on the backend.Long and slightly liquory on the finish, this is one of the most complete and compelling wines of the vintage. 93pts
Vietti
2012 Vietti Barolo Castiglione 13.5%
Small and tight on the nose, with a bit of green herb, rose petal, and sandy soil tones laid under red raspberry fruit. This is already a little tarry on the nose. Soft in the mouth, with nicely managed tannins in an easy going style, there is that 2012 a drop off on the back of the palate that leaves me wanting more. There are nice acids freshening the modest finish but without the fruit the tannins turn a bit aggressive. 86pts
2012 Vietti Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 14%
Tight and a bit talcy on the nose but certainly taut and reticent. There’s a nice texture in the mouth, soft and suave with supple tannins. Another smaller scaled wine that is well balanced and endowed with sufficient fruit to keep things fresh in the mouth. The midpalate is actually fairly rich with burnished lingonberry and cranberry fruit that retains a gentle sweetness leading to good length on the briary finish. Perhaps a bit deceptive, this is layered and detailed, clearly showing the elegance and restraint of Rocche. 91pts
2012 Vietti Barolo Brunate 14%
Dark animal aromas lace the nose with rich mineral spice notes, dark earth and a hint of cocoa layered over dry blackberry fruit. Round on entry, here one finds real richness in a wine that has managed to somehow retain the delicacy of the vintage. Tannins are ripe, acids finely balanced, this has everything in balance and fine length on the finish showing off lovely strawberry fruit that is bright and fresh. The tannins are ripe, there is no drop off on the back of the palate, this has managed to avoid all the pitfalls of 2012. One of the stars of the vintage. 93pts
2012 Vietti Barolo Barolo Lazzarito 14%
A bit of prune and a touch of dried herb stems greet the nose which is decidedly ripe and a little dark with mocha tones before turning very spicy. Really open in the mouth if a little soft on the palate, offering up tons of bright wild raspberry fruit, though the tough tannins really do grip the gums and distract a bit from the palate. There’s a little pencil lead here along with lovely medicinal inner mouth perfumes, but this is a bit tough. 90pts
2012 Vietti Barolo Barolo Ravera 14%
With a whisper of oak on the nose, this is spicy, peppery, and a bit shy on the nose. Rich but packed with tannins, this is angular with bright acids in the mouth. There is good length here, but a hint of heat as well and while the nose does show complexity, the palate is dominated by tannins, though not terribly dry tannin leading to a finish that is short and crude. With such a fine nose one expects this to pull itself together over the years but its hard to see where this ends up. 88pts
Oddero
2012 Oddero Barolo Classico 14%
Sandal wood nuance greets the nose followed by woodsy, wild strawberry fruit with hints of briar. A little creamy on entry and winter spicy, this is elegant and light on the palate with a subtle sweetness to the autumnal fruit, still there's a flash of watermelon here layered over amarena cherry fruit. Almost delicate, and yet with tannins that remain pronounced. This is clean, pure and austere with attractive fruit and complexity at this early stage, a Barolo that offers classic structure with earlier accessibility. 88pts
2012 Oddero Barolo Villero 14.5%
Tight on the nose with aromas of limestone underlying prune, dark fruit, and licorice. Fills the mouth up front with great focus to the juicy, dark cherry fruit laced with great mineral accents and lovely, fresh herbal nuance. Long, elegant and fine, there is lovely balance here, though the woody tannins do grip the back of the tongue. None the less a refined Villero. 89pts
2012 Oddero Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 14.5%
Intense deep aromas of cherry and limestone greet the nose joined by nuanced nettle, ginseng, sweet nutty oak, white pepper spice, and rose petal notes. Coiled on the palate, though with fine richness in an elegant, broad shoulder style that tightens incredibly on the palate, and then drives onto the finish with powerful mineral soil driven flavors and driving tannins, This is very good but maybe a little less tannin might be better, it’s lovely on the finish with austere bitter cherry fruit. A very precise wine, but quite tannic as well. 92pts
2012 Oddero Barolo Brunate 14.5%
Smoky, rich and ripe on the nose with dark wild berry fruit, moist earth, hints of sandalwood and sassafras spice. Tight on entry and very focused in the mouth, then curiously a bit loosely knit across the midpalate, then gaining better focus on the backend. While elegant and fine, the tannins seem to be a bit outsized for the wine. Spicy and modestly fruited in the mouth with tannins gaining the upper hand on the finish; this lacks the rich fleshiness Brunate is capable of, being just too dry and austere. 87pts
2012 Ascheri Barolo 14%
20 months ageing in 60% new Slovenian botte
Fleshy and leathery on the nose with pure, deep aromas of rose petals and cinnamon spice. Supple, on entry with delicate tannins and balanced acidity supporting flavors of licorice, fennel, and a hint of tomato adding detail to a tight core of wild cherries and strawberry in alcohol fruit that shows fine purity. The delicate tannins linger on the gums. 87pts
2012 Ascheri Pisapola Verduno 14%
This underwent 12-13 days maceration instead of closer to three weeks to respect the velvety character and elegance of the vintage. One third new botte, one third used, one third in SS,
Opening with lovely aromas that are floral and then rich with dark dried strawberry fruit, spicy soil tones that hint at sandiness, and a nuance of smoke. Perhaps a touch soft on entry, then broad in the mouth and rather rich with hints of cola and spice over dried strawberry fruity. Spicy and zesty with decent length but very front loaded today, small scaled and a bit compact today, though it retains a lovely spice to the fruit, and chewiness of tannin through the modest finish. 86pts
2012 Ascheri Barolo Sorano 14%
Dark, earthy and spicy on the nose with medicinal notes, saddle leather, hay and dried herbs over dark cherry fruit. In the mouth this is powerful, round, and yet structured with lots of ripe tannins and good supporting acids. Even then it feels a touch relaxed in the mouth, though with lovely depth, hints of balsamic spice, briar, and dark fruit lingering on the long finish. Very well done. 90pts
Oberto
2012 Oberto Barolo La Morra 14.5%
A biti tight on the nose, though, elegant and light with floral, camphor, and dusty spice backing notes and just an edge of nicely judged oak. Taut in the mouth and clear on the palate, with light, mineral laced cherry fruit showing excellent integration. Tannic, austere, and long, this is a rather grand package, that seems much more old school than simply lean and focused from the vintage. There’s plenty of ripe fruit here along with a hint of nuttiness. 90pts
2012 Oberto Barolo Albarella 15%
Small berry fruit in alcohol greets the nose followed by burnished fruit, heavy rose petals, and women's perfume but the expensive stuff. This does smell great. Moderately rich in the mouth with more burnished fruit that follows the nose. This is more complete but less elegant than the base barolo, a bit minty in the mouth, tannins are ripe and well managed though the drop off of the burnished and leathery fruit on the palate leaves one with a mouthful of briary tannins on the admittedly long finish. There's a nice hint of cherry fruit late on the palate and this might come together but today it's dropping the fruit. 84pts
2012 Oberto Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata. 15%
Killer nose, here we have fruit, roses, cinnamon spice, and a hint of beefy fleshiness and bbq smoke nuance. On the palate one finds a smooth, polished, ripe style of wine, very La Morra with fine grained tannins that are ripe and suave. The fruit is present with subtle red berry notes and fine soil tones, along with that spice note remains on the finish with lovely cherry fruit, and spices pick up a little green herbal quality on the back end and through the long finish. This is classic and surprisingly tannic; a powerful wine with fine cut and length. 92pts
Walter Lodali
2012 Walter Lodali Barolo Bricco Ambrogio 14%
Very pretty nose with lovely, complex aromas of fruit, meaty spice and dried floral notes. In the mouth this is a bit simple but very attractive, hiting all the right notes, it does show a bit evolved perhaps but the complexity is appealing, in a soft, open style, lovely depth, fine immediacy, ripe tannins, clean, correct, fairly precise, good acid drive. 86pts
2012 Walter Lodali Barolo Lorenz 15%
24-30 months in a blend of barrique and 30% tonneaux
Candied on the nose, with aroams that show more of a candied herbal quality. Weird and in need of air, this is soft and broad in the mouth with tannins that are more present early on the palate. Finishing with a fine and elegant feel and with good power on the palate, this strikes me as a bit discombobulated. JR
Pio Cesare
2012 Pio Cesare Barolo
This was just bottled, a bit damaged but the bottling shows lots of evolution on the nose, with tea leaves, leather, old pipe tobacco. Good acids welcome the palate, followed by soft tannins supporting a nice kernel of fruit in the mouth. There’s some nice detail surrounding that fruit, with fine ripe tannins supporting traditional cherry flavors. 86pts
2012 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato barrique sample
A bit reticent at first then this turns very floral on the nose, still with obvious oak but it is better integrated than previous vintages though it still shows that sour vinyl note and spicy accents. Soft in the mouth, surprisingly so, round, elegant and fine, if a bit simple. A nice, rather gentle and elegant expression of Ornato. Very typical of the vintage, good length, clean and fresh if not terribly complex. 88pts
Cascina Ballarin
2012 Cascina Ballarin Barolo Tre Ciabot 14.5%
Violative and earthy, on the nose with aromas that are strongly suggestive of underbrush and incipient truffle. This is very front loaded in the mouth, with ripe if bristly tannins and lots of acidity supporting earthy flavors. Surprisingly old school and classic in style but not the best quality, though this finishes with impressive length. 83pts
2012 Cascina Ballarin Barolo Bussia 14.5%
70% new French barrique
Oak is well absorbed lending sweetness on the nose to the sweet wild cherry fruit,. This is spiky on the palate with a thin layer of burnished fruit draped over acid suspension. Tannins are present but not intrusive, elegant in the mouth as it slowly gains length and nuance. The fruit is transparent and tightly coiled but the beauty here today is for the balance and incipient finesse. 88pts
2012 Cascina Ballarin Barolo Bricco Rocca 14.5%
26 months in slavonian oak 10HL-20HL
Meaty and spicy on the nose with lots of smoky character that could be terroir driven. In the mouth this is elegant, round, and open, very La Morra like with some added power and tannins that recalls Brunate. It’s a bit evolved though admirably rich on the back end, and transparent through the palate with some minerality adding detail on the finale. Looks like it will come together well. 88pts
Einaudi
2012 Einaudi Barolo Terlo 14.5%
Pretty nose, shows a line of oak framing briary pipe notes, crushed lingonberry fruit, and low balsamic accents. Tight on entry and well knit, with fine balance if on the tart, leaner side of things. Leathery and nutty flavors on the palate yield to red fruit particularly notably on the finish. Tannins are a bit dry, this shows decent length and seems to need time to come together but remains promising if small scaled. 87pts
2012 Einaudi Barolo Terlo Costa Grimaldi 14.5%
Herbal and spicy on the nose with layers of camphor, arugula and geranium laced with a fine mineral note and light astringent red berry fruits. A bit pillowy on entry then this gain focus in the mouth with strawberry in alcohol and cranberry fruit flavors, rose hips, astringent fruit and camphor in the mouth. Tannic and dry in the mouth, this feels lean and tannic, though the sneaky length shows a light hightoned and fragrant quality, but this is on the tougher side for this bottling. 87pts
2012 Einaudi Barolo Cannubi 14.5%
Dusty rose petals greet the nose and while one can sense the ripeness on the nose here, red fruited with a touch of candied Xmas spice, there’s very little overt fruit coming out now. Very refined in the mouth, focused with ripe tannins, open and broad but structured and they've manage a laciness here that is difficult in the vintage. There’s good depth on the palate, which is just a little simple perhaps, but this remains balanced, nuanced, and classic Cannubi of elegance and refinement. This will age well, if perhaps quickly as it already shows incipient tobacco notes. 91pts
Brezza
2012 Brezza Barolo Cannubi 14%
Intensely aromatic with effusive aromas of rosebuds. Ripe and rounded in style, with fine grained tannins that are submerged under the light, elegant fruit. The backend shows more ripeness, a hint of jamminess even and lovely white soil tones before yielding to the finish. The tannins, ripe yet classic dry and austere, really clamp down on the finish with a hint of heat and spice, all tightly focused and folded in on itself. The texture here is very fine and this is already showing well. 91pts
2012 Brezza Barolo Sarmassa 14.5%
Exhibiting super classic aromas of rosehips and cherries in alcohol, the nose here is marred by a whisper of heat, Opulent in the mouth, round and supple with dusty tannins that are ripe and yet slightly bristly. This seems a bit more traditional than the Cannubi but at the same time it lacks the purity of fruit found in that bottling. Dark a bit chewy and somewhat simple this should benefit from bottle age. 87pts
Burlotto
2012 Burlotto Barolo 14%
Minty and floral with fine wild berry and lime marmalade top notes over a balsamic base with incipient nots of porcini. Bright on entry with small tannins leaving an elegant impression in the mouth, a touch simple perhaps, and lacking the inner mouth perfumes this wine is capable of, as well as a touch drying on the finish, this is all too typical of the vintage, exhibiting finesse, elegance, fruit in a cool register but lacking aromatics and oomph. 85pts
2012 Burlotto Barolo Aclivi 14%
Macerated floral notes, mint, a suggestion of pomegranate and blood orange greet the nose followed by mineral earth that is almost chalky, and hints of blue fruit, sandalwood and pollen. Lovely on entry, complete and integrated with hints of watermelon rind lacing the entry, supported by soft tannins well balanced but present fruit and integrated acids. This has a fine bitter edge to it on the palate with dusty, dry tannins emerging on the backend, finishing firm and vibrant with a spicy character. 89pts
2012 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero 14%
A bit spicier than usual, more cinnamon, quinine, poppy seeds and truffle less overtly strawberry fruited, more orange rind and herbal. The elegant, fine acid driven mid palate is taut and lean with great minerality, more transparent than usual at this stage with lovely silky fruit and fine tannins that are rich but not aggressive. Powerful finish even though there too this is less about the fruit this year or at this stage, very fine, long lots or reverb on the finale with notes of tea, flowers, and pink peppercorn spice. 92pts
2012 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi 14%
Intense aromatics, spicy and dark with huge roses and herb fleshed aromas, super defined , red cherry fruit, with a cherries jubilee edge, In the mouth this is precise and focused with gorgeous depth; a rich, tense wine, built on fine grained tannins with superb elegance and austerity. Long if monotone on the finish packed with sour cherries, limestone and dusty soil,tones. Perhaps a little chewy but with superb elegance and austerity, great length to the soil tones, chalky finale, textbook Cannubi. 93pts
Sandrone
2012 Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne
A little smoky on the nose with hints of seashells, sweet cranberry fruit and very perfumed floral notes. A very elegant, pretty wide open wine on the palate featuring good acids, soft tannins, and tart red fruit; this is elegant and fairly fruit driven but very red fruited, with fine inner mouth perfumes. Tannins build on the finish, which is tense, and surprisingly transparent. A bit simple but with good cut and freshness. 90pts
2012 Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis.
Nicely aromatic,shows a hint of wood spice but also dried lemon peel, orange peel, and high toned red fruit. Again a rather elegant, wine proving this to be a rather successful vintage at Sandrone in that the wines are transparent and red fruited. The tannins turn a touch crude on the backend with nice soil tones and floral ivy notes adding to the expressive nature here. A decidedly transparent expression from a producer that tends more toward powerful extraction of fruit, this is a refreshing change with room for improvement. 91pts
Gemma
2012 Gemma Barolo 14%
Fruit from Serralunga, Monforte, La Morra, vinified separate, wood separate, 75% 20HL-30HL, the rest tonneaux and barrique
Smoky, on the nose low on fruit but bright, a bit stemmy with hints of lingonberry fruit and a note of varnish wood. Round on entry and a bit fleshy even, in a supple style though a bit of a ball on a rope in the mouth, with a pop of burnished fruit and leathery nuance with little attack of finish. Clean and fresh, and entirely approachable with a sweetness from alcohol and firm but not stubborn tannins make this pleasant and easy. 84pts
2012 Gemma Barolo Colarej 14%
Classic nose is all cherries in alcohol and slightly medicinal earthy spice. with a lick of new oak. Round sweet and approachable, with sharp acids, soft tannins in a juicy style with a hint of meatiness on the palate. This is vibrant if a bit monolith, but well made with a simple core of fruit and decent length. 85pts
Sobrero
2012 Sobrero Barolo Ciabot Tasinero 14%
Rose petals on the nose are followed by a sweet, slightly jam note of earthy, dark cherries and sweet tobacco aromas. Smooth and polished in the mouth, a bit too polished, and even though there are good supporting acids this starts out soft with glycerin rounded corners turning suitably tannic and austere on the back end with burnished cherry roll ups and some earthy pine cone balsamic notes. Finishes a bit too austere and dry 83pts
E Pira Chiara Boschis
All vinified the same way, destemed but not crushed, roto 10-12 days, at 28 degrees, 4 turns a day, and one pump over a day,
Cannubi is more botte and a little barrique, Via Nuova half and half, Mosconi all barrique 20-25 new,
2012 E Pira Chiara Boschis Barolo Via Nuova 14.5%
A vineyard blend including grapes from Via Nuova, Liste, Gabbuti, Baudana, Ravera and a little Mosconi.
Dark and fruity on the nose with a noticeable hint of wood spice that's a touch raw here, thought the macerated flowers, menthol, and rosehip aromas cover most of the spice. Nice and lively in the mouth, though still dark and a bit dull, with matte, slightly chewy fruit laid over fine grained tannins and a good acidic spine. This is well knit, with a dark core of fruit laced with limestone leading to a powerful finish, but it's also a bit coarse, uncharacteristically so. 87pts
2012 E Pira Chiara Boschis Barolo Cannubi 14.5%
Finely focused on the nose showing some wood sweetness over the lightly candied cherry fruit with hints of dusty white earth, porcini, and thistle. Elegant, lean, and focused on entry with good acidity and fine grained tannins keeping this lively in the mouth. Pure, dusty light red fruit with leafy and rosebud edges fairly floats over the palate with incipient balsamic edges and fine energy that powers the long finish. Super well done, just classic cannubi tannins, bright, dusty and fine. 93pts
2012 E Pira Chiara Boschis Barolo Mosconi 14.5%
Fruity and balsamic notes streak the nose, which shows a core of cedary spice and sweet nutty oak. Soft, supple, round and flannely in the mouth with classic herbal nuance and dark cherry fruit as well as lots of cinnamon spice. Tannins are powerful and dry, classic in a small way but this feels tight and closed, chewy, then falling off on the back end leaving a fair amount of prominent wood tannin and not much else. Should improve with time but is there enough fruit for the wood? 86pts
Giovanni Canonica
2012 Giovanni Canonica Barolo Grinzane Cavour 14.5%
First vintage, 50 year old, lots of rose clone in the vineyard,
Incredible fruit on the nose with fresh herb accents. The fruit explodes on the nose then fades leading to a palate with such tender tannins, surrounded by lovely small wild cherry fruit This is pure and elegant in the mouth with tannins are so supple, fine acids, making this absolutely clear on the palate with great delineation, good length. A Fine playful style, though the tannins build in the mouth as this gains weight and firmness. Very correct and classic, recalls the wines of Francesco Rinaldi a bit, though there is this vague rubbery note that comes and goes in the mouth. 91pts
2012 Giovanni Canonica Barolo Paiagallo 14 5%
Deep, dark fruit on the nose, rich with wild cherry, deep herbal note flecked with licorice, ginseng, and fennel topped with violet and iris accents. Aromatically this is terrific and it is bright and vivid on entry rich with pinpoint fine tannins. Broader shoulders and a tighter waist in the mouth, there is great drive and energy on the finely focused finish. Gorgeous noble tannins, tension, a real.beaut that turns very aromatic on the finale. 93pts
Bartolo Mascarello
2012 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 14%
A bit savory with a light and lovely spicy plummy, wild cherry in alcohol, jammy raspberry fruit melange that retains freshness. Here one finds a sweetness early on the palate, very good tannic tension in the mouth and through the finish, with a bit of sweet red floral notes on the finale. This has a fine mineral edge, and is bright and lifted in the mouth, so perfumed, and really very fine. Just lovely, precise, and complete if without the depth of the best vintages. 93pts
Stefano Oreste
2012 Stefano Oreste Barolo Perno 14%
Dark. Earthy, a bit tarry and spicy,on the nose with a fine core of competing fruity and floral tones. A sweetly fruited style of wine that is relatively open and fruity with a base of strawberry fruit. Bright on entry and fairly rich with a vibrancy on the palate that transcends the vintage. Nicely juicy, though the tannins seem just a bit dry and woody but are well integrated, nice burnished fruit and rose petal finale. This lacks a bit of the backend, but the modest finish reveals a light mineral notes with fine sour cherry with a liquory quality to the fruit but not heavy or viscous at all. Eminently drinkable for the vintage with a lot of glycerin for the vintage. Ripe tannins, gains length with air and the nose grows with menthol and nettle notes. An impressive showing in a very fruity style. 88pts
Giuseppe Rinaldi
2012 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Tre Tine 14%
60 Ravera, 20/20 Cannubi le Coste
Little bit of hail July and August but like a green harvest with 20/25% reduction from 2011
Fruity and bright on the nose with a sweetness backing up the austere fruit character accented by hints of tar and roses. This is lively in the mouth, even a bit fleshy with lovely balance and freshness to the fruit. Surprisingly fruity in nature, even almost grapey, with ripe tannins and fine energy driving the moderately long finish, it presents as very well integrated and long with a fine persistence across the palate. Fairly seamless. 92pts
2012 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate 14%
15% Le Coste
Dark with sandalwood, geranium, and rosehip accents to the spicy dark core of fruit, on the nose. One gets the impression that this is denser and tighter than the Tre Tine simply from the nose. Round in the mouth, but not fat but fatter with richer fruit but less energy than the Tre Tine. The fruit is rich, dark wild berry fruit, showing good length, but the tannins here are coarser, lending this a compact feel without the elegance and length of the Tre Tine. 91pts
Ferdinando Principiano
2012 Ferdinando Principiano Barolo Serralunga 13.5%
Fresh on the nose, cool even with elegant perfumes of soil, spice, and fresh red fruits. This opens with lovely brightness and clarity on the palate, as are many wines from this vintage it’s a bit simple perhaps, but this is lively and pure with a playful coy character on the palate, nice finish with fine grained tannins. An elegant and supple wine that plays to the strengths of the vintage. 90pts
2012 Ferdinando Principiano Barolo Ravera 13.5%
Very chinato driven aromatics are sicy and deep with layers of ginseng, pollen, nettles, and medicinal herbs. Opening on an astringent note, this quickly fills out with lots of up front fruit that is bright and rich all supported by tannins that are ripe and soft. It’s an elegant wine, but without much follow through in the mouth, it really retains the herbal notes of Monforte through the mouth. 87pts
Giorgio Pira
2012 Giorgio Pira Barolo Bricco Laut 14.5%
Bottled five weeks ago
Tight little nose showing fine rose petals and nutmeg spice on the nose, with menthol and candied black licorice base notes, and hints of mint and herb. . Elegant on entry with, fine inner mouth perfumes that are on the medicinal side of cherry, good acids and soft tannins lending a lightness on the palate and good fresh character but it does exhibit the monolithic and matte favors of 2012. Tannins are fresh and while present and obvious not intrusive on the moderately long finish, a bit too 2012 but well made in its style. 84pts
Giacomo Conterno
2012 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Francia 14.5-15%
Explosive on the nose and rich with hints of gunpowder, middle eastern spice, small black cherry fruit, a bit of meat and peppery spice, though it tightens up quickly. Austere and classic in the mouth with ripe but powerful tannins that turn drying on the backend, then dusty with some sweetness on the long finish. The aromas of rose petal and meat juices grow with air, as the nose becomes more elegant and floral with iris and wild cherry fruit perfumes in the mouth. This too is a bit simple, very fine but without the depth of a better vintage, and showing some herbal complexity on the finish, but with the tannins just a tough and dry. 92pts
Guido Porro
2012 Guido Porro Gianetto Barolo 14.5%
15-20 days three year in botte. A little sand which keeps it softe,
Huge fruity nose with braised fennel, meaty aromas and wild cherry fruit, intense and complex. Velvety but tannic in the mouth, with lots of licorice and dark cherry fruit with a hint of chalky minerality. This has an old school feel, long and angularly tannic with dark flavors, showing a very minty and herbal core, but this has fruit in reserve. Will require time, I'm unsure about this right now as it's so rich it is challenging to drink, but expect that time will be kind here, but this always be a powerful wine. 86pts
2012 Guido Porro Barolo Santa Caterina 14.5%
Showing classic aromas of cherry skin, cherry in alcohol, spicy mineral, cool mint and rose petals on the nose. In the mouth one finds a nice core of cherry fruit contrasting with bitter licorice notes along the edges and a hint of florality on the backend. There’s good persistence to the fruit which is tart, though it remains a bit dry and slightly tough with a meatiness about it. A nicely detailed wine, with fine perfumes, though it needs time for the tannins to soften and integrate. Another large scaled wine from this vintage that might have been better in a gentler style. 87pts
2012 Guido Porro Barolo Lazzairasco 14.5%
Lots of fruit on the nose, very ripe fruit that leans more towards dried dates and carob as opposed to the dark cherry and dark chocolate covered cherry fruit which makes up the rest of the nose. In the mouth this is showing more than a little Mon Cheri candy going on with lots of maraschino cherry in the mouth. On entry this is rounded with lots of flavor, but the palate quickly turns dark and earthy with the monolithic dark fruit of the vintage. Tannins are taut and acidity well integrated but this still feels quite crude in the mouth with attractive mineral notes on the mid palate and a spicy finish helping to break up all that dark fruit. 84pts
Barale
2012 Barale Barolo 13.5%
Tight on the nose with strong aromas of black tea and hints of gunpowder, small lingonberry jammy notes. Decidedly pale in color with soft tannins and lots of acidity supporting bright lean fruit. This is woodsy, balsamic, and faintly medicinal in the mouth exhibiting modest length, and an austere feel. There’s not much pleasure at this point but intellectual interest, this is certainly well made with some sweetness, but the finish is raw, spiky and very front loaded. As the wine sits it exhibits more tannic bite with old school tannins supporting black tea notes in the mouth with a hint of gunpowder, even the finish gains length and richness but this is not a fruity wine. A classic savory Barolo. 85pts
Cascina Fontana
2012 Cascina Fontana Barolo 14%
Very aromatic, a little gummy fruity on the nose with some spearmint accents and floral notes in a sweet spice violet chewing gum kind of way. Finely textured on entry, quite open and fresh in the mouth, and while small scaled fine acids really lend this lift on the palate. Showing some depth and elegance in the mouth, it remains a bit short right now but length should come, as the finish is sneaky with a return of red fruit on the finale,. Obviously young but already balanced with ripe tannins and red cherry life saver fruit accented with tobacco and dried herbs that are already slipping through on the nose. This might be a little simple after all but is a pleasure to drink. Won’t be a long ager but this much fun deserves immediacy. 90pts
Giacomo Fenocchio
2012 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Bussia 90di
A little dark fruit emerges on the subdued nose. In the mouth this is very pretty with lots of fresh fruit early on the palate but it lacks follow through. There’s a tight lovely texture but the tannins cover the flavors on the backend. A slightly chewy and tannic wine with a coarse texture to the tannins, though there is a lovely liquory base of fruit here that may emerge after some serious ageing. 86pts
2012 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Cannubi 14%
Pure cherry in alcohol greets the nose followed by lovely hints of sweet herbs and black spices over dusty soil tones In line with the vintage this is smaller scaled, and gentle in texture while remains ripe and a perhaps a bit soft even with its fine tannin base. There is good fruit here typical but with a somewhat soft voice, yielding to drying tannins on the finish, which is a bit coarse if rich with slightly jammy strawberry fruit. 87pts
2012 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Castellero 14%
More high toned perfumes greet the nose which quickly turns a bit brambly with hints of tobacco smoke and a certain meatiness to the gummi dark berry fruit with an edge of plumminess and some polleny floral tones. Rather complete and impressively complex on the nose. While showing good freshness in the mouth with fine acidic verve, fine balance, and a bright small ball of fruit, this too turns tannic on the finish, which admittedly exhibits good length. Showing better today than the Cannubi with richer fruit showing more raspberry notes and a lovely spiciness and incipient balsamic notes that seems to bring together the best of Cannubi and Bussia. 90pts
2012 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Villero 14%
Lovely on the nose, high toned, with hints of plums, prunes,darker soil, tobacco and smoky and dusty rose petal. This is wide open in the mouth but tannic, with a long tannic persistence lending it a rich and slightly chewy feel. While lovely early on the palate, the fruit thins out on the midpalate turning nutty and tannic, though mostly ripe tannin, leading to a modest finish which shows slightly creamy black cherry fruit and a suggestion of heat. 86pts
2012 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Bussia 14%
Dusky with notes of underbrush, dark fruit, poppy seeds, spicy with a dried fruit character on the nose. A bit minty on entry with smooth, ripe tannins, in a rich, somewhat chewy style that highlights dark fruit. Good acidic drive in the mouth keeps the dark fruit fresh and while a bit plump this is very well balanced, retaining a deft sense of elegance. A bit simple but complete with good length and ripe, fine grained tannins lingering on the finale. 87pts
G.D. Vajra
2012 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe
Barolo di Barolo Fossati, Coste de Vergne, la Volta all high altitude, 20-30 years, three different expositions
Fruity on the nose with hints of camphor and dried rose petals adding detail. There's a little sweet and spicy, character here that almost seems to be showing a hint of oak spice. Light on the palate, wide open and playful in the mouth, not tough or structured even if this has plenty of quite juicy acidity and a nice base of soft tannins. Fruity in the mouth and modestly complex, showing little savory accents on the modest finish. A pleasant, approachable, and a soft expression of Barolo. 87pts
2012 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole 14%
Quite fruity on the nose with classic tar and roses layered over the fruit laced with subtle balsamic undertones. Supple and elegant in the mouth in a transparent and finely textured style with pinpoint tannins and juicy acids supporting slightly astringent cranberry tinged raspberry fruit. This drops off on the finish a bit leaving delicate tannins on the finale A lovely, rose scented wine with elegant tannins and incipient finesse. 90pts
2012 G.D. Vajra Barolo Ravera 14%
Macerated herbs and spicy cherry fruit with hints of burnt orange rind, pebbles, and sandy soil tones greet the nose. Very cherried fruit pops on entry followed by a palate impression that is slippery and light. A lovely playful wine endowed with gentle red raspberry, wild strawberry, and amarena cherry fruit. In fact this is very fruity, though without being banal. The palate is rich with finely polished tannins that lend this a firm if lacy feel that carries on to the moderately long finish which lightly echoes the fruity palate with slightly medicinal accent notes. 89pts
Baudana
2012 Baudana Barolo Baudana 14.5%
Lovely darkly aromatic nose features medicinal and masculine, rosehips and sandalwood notes that are, nuanced and perfumed. Fresh acids great the mouth supporting dark yet vivid fruit in the mouth. The fine grained tannins are rather firm supporting with lots of dark fruit character on the palate, though this dips out on the backend of the palate and through the finish. A bit tough yet tight with nice energy on the backend and rich fruit that builds on the palate along with lovely inner mouth perfumes. 88pts
2012 Baudana Barolo Cerretta 14.5%
A step up in aromatic depth and complexity with incipient notes of tea and tobacco, laced with hints of carob, dark stone, almost motor oil. This is powerfully aromatic and fills the mouth with a slightly chewy richness of fruit that nicely covers the fine, austere tannins and juicy acids. It finishes a bit short perhaps,and has that 2012 drop off on the backend, though it has a lot going on, still that drop off on the finish is slightly disappointing but this should come together nicely. 90pts
Massolino
2012 Massolino Barolo 14%
15-18 days maceration
Dark, deep aromatics of earth, tar, wild grass, some prune plummy fruit a hint of mint gain freshness in the glass as eucalyptus, rose petals, and candied citron peels enter the mix. Fairly rich for the vintage in a balanced, bright style with ripe tannins. There is lovely complexity in the mouth, along with great texture and balance for a Classico The tannins are ripe and fine, lingering on the finish with nice fruit before turning just a touch dry. This is quite classic and a strong showing for the vintage. 90pts
2012 Massolino Margheria Barolo 14%
Lots of slightly jammy wild strawberry fruit greets the nose followed by a touch of menthol with hints of medicinal fennel frond and a touch of iron,a very fragrant wine. This offers up an added layer of richness on the palate with fine depth to the decidedly mineral palate impression that is lively and balanced with tannins that are a little dry, lending a saline note on the backend to all the dark cherry and strawberry fruit. Medium bodied with some elegance but just a bit tannic and dry, still this has most of the pieces in place, not significantly better than the Classico but texturally different with more cut and tension in the mouth. 90pts
2012 Massolino Parafada Barolo 14%
Gorgeous on the nose, redolent of red licorice, fruity in a red licorice red currant jam, then turning minty, with nuanced sassafras, candied citron peel, tar and camphor notes. A decidedly ripe wine with more fruit than the Margheria as well as, a step up in clarity on the palate. There's a delicacy here to the power, tannins seem better integrated and softer, supporting delineated wild cherry fruit and while this drops off a touch on the backend and lacks great complexity on the palate, it finishes with great length and drive on the sandy, mineral laced finish. Really lovely old school style reminds me of 1982 tannins. 91pts
2012 Massolino Parussi Barolo 14%
Sweet fruit on the nose recalls strawberries with hints of violets, there’s more of a candied tone on the nose here with candied cherries with a hint of tar and mint. Soft yet chewy style more broad shouldered in the mouth featuring red fruit that is fresh and astringent, supported by austere tannins, with a slightly loosely knit but tannic feel that leads to a long finish with briary tannins. A bit raw when compared with Parafada and a bit hot with, chewy tannins. 88pts
Elvio Cogno
2012 Elvio Cogno Barolo Cascina Nuova 14.5%
This has lots of fruit one the nose, roses and cherries with hightoned, more exotic notes of pomegranate and grapey purple fruit. Fresh and youthful on entry with a pop of watermelon leading to a palate defined by fine tannins and good acids with fine medium bodied balance. Nicely taut in the mouth, this is rich with dark fruit, and dark, almost coffee tinged extract of dried roses in the mouth. Tannic and dry on the finish, which shows off richly burnished fruit, and tight, fairly important tannins. Elegant but decidedly masculine here, a powerful wine with austere tannins and dark fruit. 90pts
2012 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera 14.5%
Lampia Michet, 60/40
40 days, 24 months
Black cherries and tobacco pop from the glass with purity, intense and bright, adding nuanced crushed floral notes with a hint of geranium as it sits in the glass. This is a deep, chiseled wine, taut and almost a bit spicy on the palate with lots of clear, mineral tinged dark, muscular fruit with remarkable elegance While finely balanced, this is a powerful, tannic wine that is long and very fine. There was no shying away from going for broke here. 93pts
2012 Elvio Cogno Barolo Vigna Elena
Botte sample
Very soil driven and savory on the nose with elegant floral complexity to the minty fresh fruit aromatics. Taut in the mouth all red fruited, elegant and polished with real drive and energy on the palate. The ripe tannins are almost supple already, and while this has a little coarseness still on the backend, time should soften that right up revealing aromatics that are almost on par with the 2010, certaInly in style and purity, if not intensity. Long and quite fine. (91-94)
Cavallotto
2012 Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 14.5% botte sample
Dark and earthy on the nose, which features a meaty, meat extract quality laced with medicinal herbs. Soft and fruity up front, then turning quite broad across the palate. This offers up nice tension in the mouth but not much depth. There’s plenty of dark cherry fruit here, though without detail or depth and this is certainly less of a wine than 2011, similar in its fruit profile but coarser and simple. 86pts
Luigi Oddero
2012 Luigi Oddero Barolo
Santa Maria, Rocche Rivera, Belvedere in Baudana
40/30/30
Twenty twenty five, two years in botte of 20Hl-25Hl, then blend and one year in bottle,
Slightly herbal on the nose, but with nice cool red fruit, and while somewhat reticent, this reveals nuance nuanced with some hot iron notes and medicinal red cherry fruit. Open on the palate with impeccable balance. Rich with attractive fruit and tannins that are so well managed you miss them on the first go round, but this lacks a touch on the mid palate is is not terribly complex, and perhaps a bit short as well but still a pure, aromatic expression of Barolo given the vintage. Solid, and well done, if a bit more impressive up front than on the back end. 89pts
Prunotto
2012 Prunotto Barolo 13.5%
Mainly Monforte and Serralunga, from Bussia, Mosconi, Bricco Disa, eastern Serralunga below Gianetto, close to Ornato
Austere and astringent on the nose, with hints of smoke, hot iron, and citrus peels, almost pink grapefruity accents over a pink peppercorn spiced core of red fruit. A little glycerine rich early on the palate, then turning bright and juicy in the mouth with slightly under-ripe flavors of strawberry tops, alpine herbs, and a touch of sweet herbs all wrapped up in a, fairly gentle style with nice drying tannins on the finish. Already drinkable, an easy wine with authentic Barolo character. 87pts
Brovia
2012 Brovia Barolo Classico 14%
20%-30% remains of cru wines not used, the rest Brea younger vines, 25 years
Great aromatic depth on the nose rich with fresh, ripe cherry fruit,framed by hints of mint and herb with a sweet medicinal, powdery top notes. Direct and sweet on entry, this offers up lots of fruit, ripe tannins, and good acids, with nice midpalate depth, and emerging tobacco and powdery necco wafer nuance bringing up the back palate. With transparent bitter cherry fruit, this offers up a balanced, mid-weight, elegant yet fruity example of what can be achieved in 2012. 89pts
2012 Brovia Barolo Rocche Castiglione 14.5%
Impressive right off the bat with gorgeous rose petal aromas, decadent notes of wild flowers, small tight wild cherry fruit, hints of camphor and a touch of limestone. In the mouth this is austere, precise and elegant with nice tension in the mouth and pure limestone tannins gripping the cheeks. Showing fine fruit, light and elegant with hints of under ripe cherry skins and green herbal, green tea accents on the palate,leading to a long finish rich with burnished fruit. A touch crude right now, a bit small scaled as well, this is none the less a complete wine. Red licorice appears in the backend and through the finish along with hints of aggressiveness from the tannins. This shows signs of very early approachability and will probably be at it’s best in 8-12 years. 92pts
2012 Brovia Barolo Villero 14.5%
Less intense on the nose than it’s siblings, this opens with some cactus pad notes followed by rich raspberry and wild strawberry fruit. Nicely done with some subtle layered fruit on entry, this lacks the complexity and tension of the rocche. On entry the fruit pops in the mouth, broader and more polished in the mouth with supple tannins that are fine and ripe. A bit of a sandy texture marks the fairly floral finish,and while this is a bit simple and more 2012 in character it is quite good with more glycerine lending a touch of flesh on the midpalate. 91pts
2012 Brovia Barolo Garblet Sue 14.5%
Gorgeous on the nose, redolent of roses talc, hibiscus flowers, red berries, and just a hint of spice. This is really intensely floral, packed with the perfumes of sweet red flowers. Round, playful and open in the mouth, the palate doesn't quite live up to the nose, featuring fine austere tannins, it’s a bit simple but with a fairly complete ripeness profile, but lacking some depth, though there's lovely fruitiness on the moderately long finish. Once again tannins are just not quite ripe,though deep licorice and black cherry skin black cherry cola flavors are pretty profound on the finish. 92pts
2012 Brovia Barolo Brea Ca'mia 14.5%
Here we take another step up, lovely floral notes, spicy black cherry fruit, dusty dark soil tones, deep, masculine and complex, if a bit medicinal on the nose. Elegant fine and compact in the mouth, this has a lovely texture with good concentration of fruit, ripe tannins, fine acid balance. There’s a brightness to the fruit even if the flavors are classically dark cherry skin with a suggestion of plum, and offering great minerality on the backend.Long and slightly liquory on the finish, this is one of the most complete and compelling wines of the vintage. 93pts
Vietti
2012 Vietti Barolo Castiglione 13.5%
Small and tight on the nose, with a bit of green herb, rose petal, and sandy soil tones laid under red raspberry fruit. This is already a little tarry on the nose. Soft in the mouth, with nicely managed tannins in an easy going style, there is that 2012 a drop off on the back of the palate that leaves me wanting more. There are nice acids freshening the modest finish but without the fruit the tannins turn a bit aggressive. 86pts
2012 Vietti Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 14%
Tight and a bit talcy on the nose but certainly taut and reticent. There’s a nice texture in the mouth, soft and suave with supple tannins. Another smaller scaled wine that is well balanced and endowed with sufficient fruit to keep things fresh in the mouth. The midpalate is actually fairly rich with burnished lingonberry and cranberry fruit that retains a gentle sweetness leading to good length on the briary finish. Perhaps a bit deceptive, this is layered and detailed, clearly showing the elegance and restraint of Rocche. 91pts
2012 Vietti Barolo Brunate 14%
Dark animal aromas lace the nose with rich mineral spice notes, dark earth and a hint of cocoa layered over dry blackberry fruit. Round on entry, here one finds real richness in a wine that has managed to somehow retain the delicacy of the vintage. Tannins are ripe, acids finely balanced, this has everything in balance and fine length on the finish showing off lovely strawberry fruit that is bright and fresh. The tannins are ripe, there is no drop off on the back of the palate, this has managed to avoid all the pitfalls of 2012. One of the stars of the vintage. 93pts
2012 Vietti Barolo Barolo Lazzarito 14%
A bit of prune and a touch of dried herb stems greet the nose which is decidedly ripe and a little dark with mocha tones before turning very spicy. Really open in the mouth if a little soft on the palate, offering up tons of bright wild raspberry fruit, though the tough tannins really do grip the gums and distract a bit from the palate. There’s a little pencil lead here along with lovely medicinal inner mouth perfumes, but this is a bit tough. 90pts
2012 Vietti Barolo Barolo Ravera 14%
With a whisper of oak on the nose, this is spicy, peppery, and a bit shy on the nose. Rich but packed with tannins, this is angular with bright acids in the mouth. There is good length here, but a hint of heat as well and while the nose does show complexity, the palate is dominated by tannins, though not terribly dry tannin leading to a finish that is short and crude. With such a fine nose one expects this to pull itself together over the years but its hard to see where this ends up. 88pts
Oddero
2012 Oddero Barolo Classico 14%
Sandal wood nuance greets the nose followed by woodsy, wild strawberry fruit with hints of briar. A little creamy on entry and winter spicy, this is elegant and light on the palate with a subtle sweetness to the autumnal fruit, still there's a flash of watermelon here layered over amarena cherry fruit. Almost delicate, and yet with tannins that remain pronounced. This is clean, pure and austere with attractive fruit and complexity at this early stage, a Barolo that offers classic structure with earlier accessibility. 88pts
2012 Oddero Barolo Villero 14.5%
Tight on the nose with aromas of limestone underlying prune, dark fruit, and licorice. Fills the mouth up front with great focus to the juicy, dark cherry fruit laced with great mineral accents and lovely, fresh herbal nuance. Long, elegant and fine, there is lovely balance here, though the woody tannins do grip the back of the tongue. None the less a refined Villero. 89pts
2012 Oddero Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 14.5%
Intense deep aromas of cherry and limestone greet the nose joined by nuanced nettle, ginseng, sweet nutty oak, white pepper spice, and rose petal notes. Coiled on the palate, though with fine richness in an elegant, broad shoulder style that tightens incredibly on the palate, and then drives onto the finish with powerful mineral soil driven flavors and driving tannins, This is very good but maybe a little less tannin might be better, it’s lovely on the finish with austere bitter cherry fruit. A very precise wine, but quite tannic as well. 92pts
2012 Oddero Barolo Brunate 14.5%
Smoky, rich and ripe on the nose with dark wild berry fruit, moist earth, hints of sandalwood and sassafras spice. Tight on entry and very focused in the mouth, then curiously a bit loosely knit across the midpalate, then gaining better focus on the backend. While elegant and fine, the tannins seem to be a bit outsized for the wine. Spicy and modestly fruited in the mouth with tannins gaining the upper hand on the finish; this lacks the rich fleshiness Brunate is capable of, being just too dry and austere. 87pts