Incontri Rotaliani Teroldego Rotaliano in anteprima 2023
Serendipitously I found that I was going to be mere miles away when I learned of this year’s Incontri Rotaliani Teroldego Rotaliano in anteprima, the third in what has become an annual event. At first glance this seemed like a very odd event: three days of masterclasses, lectures, and walk around tastings comparing the local Teroldego with another region, in this year’s case the wines of Etna. The events were to be held in the villages of Mezzocorona, Mezzolombardo, and at the enological institute of San Michele, not exactly the spots that might attract bustling crowds, and yet there we were.
To answer this first question of why here, allow me to start at the end, the final day which included a morning full of lectures at the hall Edmund Mach. I won’t be going into much detail here regarding this series of lectures as it was endlessly informative of both Teroldego and Nerello Mascalese in particular. What was my surprise of the day, and revealing the answer to question #1, was that much, if not most of the audience was comprised of students. This is, in parge part, and educational endeavor in furtherance of student’s study. However it is not just that, it’s also a promotional event for the wines of the region, enhanced of course by the truly spectacular natural beauty that surround the Adige valley up in this neck of the woods. But it doesn’t stop there! The walk around tastings are open to the public, and while they are a wonderful forum for producer to try each other’s wines and exchange ideas, it’s also great to see the locals ome out to support their neighbors, try many examples of Teroldego, learn a bit about the wines of Etna, and perhaps get inspired to become a part of the local wine industry.
This Pian Rotaliano is a pretty insignificant part of the wine world, but for the people that live here it is their agricultural life. I remember driving through this valley as a child. The landscape changed over the years, first there were wall to wall vines, then for a period apple trees, spilling down from the Val di Non, famous for this fruit, encroached on the precious vineyards. Today nary a fruit tree can be found where vines can be planted, appropriately so in my opinion for while Teroldego is not world renowned, and perhaps is not entirely suited to being internationalized, it does produce a delicious wine, and it is easy to argue that in the right hands it can produce one of the world’s greatest table wines.
Teroldego did not originate from this flood plain north of the city of Trento, but here it found it’s home. Production is limited by nature to roughly 450 hectares here, so it is a distinct challenge growing in international brand, but many producers have spend decades working to that end. To work with they have a grape variety that is very high in anthocyanin, producing dark wine, moderately rich in alcohol, but one that retains great, refreshing acidity. Tannins run the gamut from green and durable to barely present, due mostly likely from variations in both soil and exposition as the valley wall to the west is both steep and high, cutting off sunlight to the western valley floor quite early in the afternoon and having a great impact on the ripening cycle of the vine.
The soil here, a flood plain of sorts, but actually a high plateaus some 200-250 meters above sea level, is defined by two rivers, the Noce which flows from the Val di Non, and the larger Adige which roughly forms the easter board of the zone. The soil is generally aa glacial moraine covered with alluvial flows from the Noce in particular, but also front he Adige. The base of glacial rock is thus covered by alluvial sandy silt. The defining feature of many of the wines of the region is the depth of this alluvial soil above the glacial moraine. More sandy soil offers better drainage, which produces more finessed wines, less sandy soil with a high percentage of clay offers up fruitier and chewier wines. This is a convenient rule fo thumb but the truth is that many factures are involved in creating a wines style here, perhaps second most important is the form of trellising. While guyot has gained popularity here, the more traditional pergola Trentina remains very popular, and with Teroldego perfectly capable of producing fine balanced wines with yields around 160 quintals per hectare, that should come as no surprise.
To answer this first question of why here, allow me to start at the end, the final day which included a morning full of lectures at the hall Edmund Mach. I won’t be going into much detail here regarding this series of lectures as it was endlessly informative of both Teroldego and Nerello Mascalese in particular. What was my surprise of the day, and revealing the answer to question #1, was that much, if not most of the audience was comprised of students. This is, in parge part, and educational endeavor in furtherance of student’s study. However it is not just that, it’s also a promotional event for the wines of the region, enhanced of course by the truly spectacular natural beauty that surround the Adige valley up in this neck of the woods. But it doesn’t stop there! The walk around tastings are open to the public, and while they are a wonderful forum for producer to try each other’s wines and exchange ideas, it’s also great to see the locals ome out to support their neighbors, try many examples of Teroldego, learn a bit about the wines of Etna, and perhaps get inspired to become a part of the local wine industry.
This Pian Rotaliano is a pretty insignificant part of the wine world, but for the people that live here it is their agricultural life. I remember driving through this valley as a child. The landscape changed over the years, first there were wall to wall vines, then for a period apple trees, spilling down from the Val di Non, famous for this fruit, encroached on the precious vineyards. Today nary a fruit tree can be found where vines can be planted, appropriately so in my opinion for while Teroldego is not world renowned, and perhaps is not entirely suited to being internationalized, it does produce a delicious wine, and it is easy to argue that in the right hands it can produce one of the world’s greatest table wines.
Teroldego did not originate from this flood plain north of the city of Trento, but here it found it’s home. Production is limited by nature to roughly 450 hectares here, so it is a distinct challenge growing in international brand, but many producers have spend decades working to that end. To work with they have a grape variety that is very high in anthocyanin, producing dark wine, moderately rich in alcohol, but one that retains great, refreshing acidity. Tannins run the gamut from green and durable to barely present, due mostly likely from variations in both soil and exposition as the valley wall to the west is both steep and high, cutting off sunlight to the western valley floor quite early in the afternoon and having a great impact on the ripening cycle of the vine.
The soil here, a flood plain of sorts, but actually a high plateaus some 200-250 meters above sea level, is defined by two rivers, the Noce which flows from the Val di Non, and the larger Adige which roughly forms the easter board of the zone. The soil is generally aa glacial moraine covered with alluvial flows from the Noce in particular, but also front he Adige. The base of glacial rock is thus covered by alluvial sandy silt. The defining feature of many of the wines of the region is the depth of this alluvial soil above the glacial moraine. More sandy soil offers better drainage, which produces more finessed wines, less sandy soil with a high percentage of clay offers up fruitier and chewier wines. This is a convenient rule fo thumb but the truth is that many factures are involved in creating a wines style here, perhaps second most important is the form of trellising. While guyot has gained popularity here, the more traditional pergola Trentina remains very popular, and with Teroldego perfectly capable of producing fine balanced wines with yields around 160 quintals per hectare, that should come as no surprise.
La Pergola Trentina
What does the future hold for Teroldego? A name change perhaps. Following in the footsteps of Dogliani and Nizza, Rotaliano might be appearing a shelf in the near future. But of course a name is only as good as what is behind a label. I love Teroldego, truly do, but for me it is at its best when it is lighter and more elegant, not striving to be something it’s not, and not weighed down with intrusive oak. The Endrizzi Elio e F.lli Sfere Nere Teroldego Superiore Riserva is a model for what “Super” Teroldego can be, but at the same time this Endrizzi’s, there are several, Teroldego from bag in box is as delicious as any table wine has the right to be, is very affordable, and pairs exceptionally well with a wide variety of foods. At the end of the day it is the style of wine I look for and enjoy the most!
I understand that 5 liter bag in box may not be the path forward here, but if I limit my thoughts solely to the US market I do believe that a $12-$15 of delicious Teroldego could have a very bright future here. Certainly bright enough considering the quantities produced, and having Rotaliano on the label could even work to a value wine’s advantage!
The organizers of the Incontri Rotaliani Teroldego Rotaliano in anteprima were kind enough to allow me to join two of their seated tastings, though I did not have time to stay for one of their walk around tastings. The following notes were taken during these two tastings, the Teroldego Rotaliano in anteprima: la Riserva lead by Stefania Vinciguerra (caporedattore di DoctorWine) and the Geometrie variabili: la Piana Rotaliana incontra “A Muntagna” led by Cristina Mercuri. Both tastings were expertly organized, if on a little bit of an Italian schedule. During one of the tastings a wine exhibited the obvious presence of brett, which elicited a vigorous discussion amongst the crowd, and particularly from the several producers in attendance. It was lovely to see such free spirited and unbridled exchange of opinions taking place in what had been a very reserved society. I enjoyed both events as well as the exceptionally informative presentation the following morning, and only wish that i could have tasted more wines. This was a well produced, informative, and innovative set of events that I need to add to my schedule. I look forward to trying my hand at serendipity again next year!
I understand that 5 liter bag in box may not be the path forward here, but if I limit my thoughts solely to the US market I do believe that a $12-$15 of delicious Teroldego could have a very bright future here. Certainly bright enough considering the quantities produced, and having Rotaliano on the label could even work to a value wine’s advantage!
The organizers of the Incontri Rotaliani Teroldego Rotaliano in anteprima were kind enough to allow me to join two of their seated tastings, though I did not have time to stay for one of their walk around tastings. The following notes were taken during these two tastings, the Teroldego Rotaliano in anteprima: la Riserva lead by Stefania Vinciguerra (caporedattore di DoctorWine) and the Geometrie variabili: la Piana Rotaliana incontra “A Muntagna” led by Cristina Mercuri. Both tastings were expertly organized, if on a little bit of an Italian schedule. During one of the tastings a wine exhibited the obvious presence of brett, which elicited a vigorous discussion amongst the crowd, and particularly from the several producers in attendance. It was lovely to see such free spirited and unbridled exchange of opinions taking place in what had been a very reserved society. I enjoyed both events as well as the exceptionally informative presentation the following morning, and only wish that i could have tasted more wines. This was a well produced, informative, and innovative set of events that I need to add to my schedule. I look forward to trying my hand at serendipity again next year!
Teroldego Riserva spend two years in wood.
1. Dorigati Luigi Teroldego Rotaliano Vigna Sottodossi Riserva 2021
A true barrel sample, lots of oak spice, in relative balance with the spicy, dark fruit nature of Teroldego. Mulberry and plum fruit, but the wood gains prominence on the nose with vanilla, dried ginger, followed by a hint of wild herbs. Nose integrates fairly well, in the mouth this is bright and juicy and angular. Good fruit and energy, tannins are firm, slightly aggressive, obviously young but only intellectually satisfying at this point. Good length.a touch flat on the palate 91pts
2. Mezzacorona Castel Firmian Teroldego Rotaliano Riserva 2021
Another true barrel sample, quite restrained, a deep black cherry and red plum fruitiness, nice framing notes of toasted oak, and black spice, with a hint of flintiness. Fairly relaxed already, tannins are quite woody and not terribly well integrated. There is good richness here on the midpalate, a bit clipped on the finish though, really quite pleasant though it needs richer food as a partner, bigger, silky, a crowd pleaser is round and a bit chewy, rather easy with good fruit but modest complexity. 87pts
3. Rotaliana Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva 2020
In reduction, slight, fairly vegetal and stoney on the nose, oak in the background, slightly saline on the nose, good complexity to the candied black raspberry fruit and hints of candied spice. Rich and broad in the mouth, quite ready, candied apple with a hint of oily herbal spice offering a fine counterpoint to the red berry core of fruit. Short and slightly bitter and extracted on the finishes. Lovely red fruit though. 86pts
4. De Vigili Ottavio Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva 2020
20% whole bunch, 60-70 years of age, 500 liter ferments
Dark, slightly autumnal, slightly evolved already, forest floor, freshly turned earth, capers, and spicy black raspberry fruit, lots of tobacco and balsamic herbs, Lean and focused, racy in the mouth, fine polished tannins, lovely tense wine, tannic but supple, long and energetic, it has richness but also transparency, fruit, forest floor, river stones, and hints of dark chocolate shavings. Has the drinkability of Teroldego, Delicious.bright and juicy on the palate 93pts
5. Endrizzi Leoncorno Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva 2020
Stinks of shit on the nose, pretty, more clay and white soil tones, more herbal notes emerge with air, certainly complex if not enticing. Broad and a bitt loose in the mouth, quite open and ready, it has good acids but lacks verve, almost silky, retains some nice fruit, but finish is marked by excessive wood tannins, drops off ont he finish into a bretty finale. 77pts
6. Zeni Roberto Pini Teroldego Rotaliano Riserva 2019
Quite oaky, very upright on the nose, has a fine balance of fresh fruit and oak spice, smells important and powerful, lighter on the palate than the nose suggests, very well balanced, rich and polished, impressive with a gentle finish that is well balanced if marked by fairly aggressive wood tannins, so much depth early on the palate, promises well for the future, has some sneaky length, cocoa powder oak imprint, a very modern, international style but one that retains the character of Teroldego, wood tannins for decades. 89pts
7. Endrizzi Elio e F.lli Sfere Nere Teroldego Superiore Riserva 2019
36 months in barrique
Super fruity, explosive nose, textbook Teroldego with a blend of black cherry, blueberry, and mulberry fruit all well framed by gentle wood spice and a deep soil tone. Silky, another wine that lacks a forced sense of extraction, lively on the palate, gorgeous with energy and drive. Clean and lithe, it’s not a powerhouse with dusty tannins lending some mouth grab on the long finish. A touch of green herb and wood spice grace the nose. A bit too tense, needs another 18 months, has great reserves of sweet fruit, a Lazer, clean and precise. 93pts
1. Dorigati Luigi Teroldego Rotaliano Vigna Sottodossi Riserva 2021
A true barrel sample, lots of oak spice, in relative balance with the spicy, dark fruit nature of Teroldego. Mulberry and plum fruit, but the wood gains prominence on the nose with vanilla, dried ginger, followed by a hint of wild herbs. Nose integrates fairly well, in the mouth this is bright and juicy and angular. Good fruit and energy, tannins are firm, slightly aggressive, obviously young but only intellectually satisfying at this point. Good length.a touch flat on the palate 91pts
2. Mezzacorona Castel Firmian Teroldego Rotaliano Riserva 2021
Another true barrel sample, quite restrained, a deep black cherry and red plum fruitiness, nice framing notes of toasted oak, and black spice, with a hint of flintiness. Fairly relaxed already, tannins are quite woody and not terribly well integrated. There is good richness here on the midpalate, a bit clipped on the finish though, really quite pleasant though it needs richer food as a partner, bigger, silky, a crowd pleaser is round and a bit chewy, rather easy with good fruit but modest complexity. 87pts
3. Rotaliana Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva 2020
In reduction, slight, fairly vegetal and stoney on the nose, oak in the background, slightly saline on the nose, good complexity to the candied black raspberry fruit and hints of candied spice. Rich and broad in the mouth, quite ready, candied apple with a hint of oily herbal spice offering a fine counterpoint to the red berry core of fruit. Short and slightly bitter and extracted on the finishes. Lovely red fruit though. 86pts
4. De Vigili Ottavio Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva 2020
20% whole bunch, 60-70 years of age, 500 liter ferments
Dark, slightly autumnal, slightly evolved already, forest floor, freshly turned earth, capers, and spicy black raspberry fruit, lots of tobacco and balsamic herbs, Lean and focused, racy in the mouth, fine polished tannins, lovely tense wine, tannic but supple, long and energetic, it has richness but also transparency, fruit, forest floor, river stones, and hints of dark chocolate shavings. Has the drinkability of Teroldego, Delicious.bright and juicy on the palate 93pts
5. Endrizzi Leoncorno Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva 2020
Stinks of shit on the nose, pretty, more clay and white soil tones, more herbal notes emerge with air, certainly complex if not enticing. Broad and a bitt loose in the mouth, quite open and ready, it has good acids but lacks verve, almost silky, retains some nice fruit, but finish is marked by excessive wood tannins, drops off ont he finish into a bretty finale. 77pts
6. Zeni Roberto Pini Teroldego Rotaliano Riserva 2019
Quite oaky, very upright on the nose, has a fine balance of fresh fruit and oak spice, smells important and powerful, lighter on the palate than the nose suggests, very well balanced, rich and polished, impressive with a gentle finish that is well balanced if marked by fairly aggressive wood tannins, so much depth early on the palate, promises well for the future, has some sneaky length, cocoa powder oak imprint, a very modern, international style but one that retains the character of Teroldego, wood tannins for decades. 89pts
7. Endrizzi Elio e F.lli Sfere Nere Teroldego Superiore Riserva 2019
36 months in barrique
Super fruity, explosive nose, textbook Teroldego with a blend of black cherry, blueberry, and mulberry fruit all well framed by gentle wood spice and a deep soil tone. Silky, another wine that lacks a forced sense of extraction, lively on the palate, gorgeous with energy and drive. Clean and lithe, it’s not a powerhouse with dusty tannins lending some mouth grab on the long finish. A touch of green herb and wood spice grace the nose. A bit too tense, needs another 18 months, has great reserves of sweet fruit, a Lazer, clean and precise. 93pts
Interior courtyard of Cantina Martinelli in Mezzocorona. Host of the Masterclasses.
Geometrie variabili La Piana Rotaliano incontra “ A Montagna”
2022 Terre Nere Etna Rosso
Albarello trained vines on north facing higher slopes
Dusty and leafy, sandalwood, small red fruits, a hint of blood orange peel, with a hint of jamminess, sweetness, rose petals. Offers lovely rush of sweet red fruit early on the palate, lively with a sense of delicacy, lots of soils tones, stone and ashy, then tannins that are fairly aggressive, long, direct, a bit of forest floor on the palate, dry tannins clip the finish tamp it down. 88pts
2021 Franchetti Passopisciaro Contrada Rampante Etna Rosso
North, 1000 meters
Lacy, delicate but precise with great floral notes, hint of white pepper, and older wood note framing a hint of red fruit, cranberry toned, golden raspberry, Lots of sweetness to the cranberry and golden currant fruit flavors, lots of firm, nervous dustiness on the palate, deep yet light on the palate, vibrant and very long, fabulous tension in the mouth and fine grained dusty tannins, lovely wine, with a return of raspberry fruit on the finale. 92pts
2019 Barone di Villagrande Etna Rosso Contrada Villagrande
East of Etna, aged in chestnut
Very saline on the nose, dried flowers, dried red berry fruit, lots of macchia and dried herbal notes, baby powder. Quite open and juicy on the palate, broad with hints of prune in alcohol on the back palate, quite evolved already with firm, and almost egressive tannins, rustic, flavors are quite mature, still firm structure, lovely red cherry, red currant finale. 87pts
2016 Masseria Setteporte Nerello Mascalese ex magnum
700 meters south facing, only ss
Quite autumnal but sweet with caramel tones to the cough lozenge and tea core of aromas, Silkier on the palate, a bit of cola and leather early on the palate, lovely edge here, firm, racy acidity, stoney base notes, ashy edges to the dried berry fruit that emerges on the relatively long finish. Definitely intellectually rewarding and has an interesting place at the table, for my palate this is at peak. 89pts
2021 Breccia Fuoricampo Vigneti delle Dolomiti
Tight and dusty, smells very nervous, black raspberry, wild blackberry, bay leaf, light on the palate. Clean, fresh fruit in the mouth, polished supple tannins, juicy easy going but with an innate firmness, then long and rich with delicate blackberry fruits. Lovely easy going Teroldego. 86pts
2020 De Vescovi Ulzbach Vigilius Teroldego Rotaliano
A touch autumnal on the nose, deep, fresh turned earth, black cherry, hints of old wood shows as cognac and worn leather. Opulent but not vulgar, lovely and rich with fine plushness underpinned by fine grained tannins and river stone minerality. Builds on the palate with good power on the back palate before the minerality returns completely on the long finish which is all river stones and freshly crushed dark/black berry fruit. Great tension early on the palate, great stuff though definitely less approachable than most. 93pts
2016 Redondel Dannato Vigneto delle Dolomiti
Much more calcaire terrain, very alkaline
Reticent on the nose, more evolved but not old, steely, slow to emerge detergent florally, lilac, tense and restrained in the mouth, with remarkable depth here, this is still very fresh in the mouth if not fruity, harmony and balance, this is a different class of wine, so tense and long, an extraction of terroir, hints of pomegranate and orange peel emerge on the nose, along with balsamic grace notes, a little powerhouse, an aficionados wine. 93pts
2014 Foradori Sgarzon Teroldego
Tea, forest floor, and dried leaves grace the nose. Air brings out sour red berry and dark berry fruit, then floral notes emerge slowly, Almost sweet on entry, this is much fresher on entry than the nose would suggest, broad yet transparent, it drops off a bit on the palate, showing its age there a bit. Blackberry and black cherry fruit on the palate, hint of volatility lends lift especially on the backend, still is a bit short. 88pts
2022 Terre Nere Etna Rosso
Albarello trained vines on north facing higher slopes
Dusty and leafy, sandalwood, small red fruits, a hint of blood orange peel, with a hint of jamminess, sweetness, rose petals. Offers lovely rush of sweet red fruit early on the palate, lively with a sense of delicacy, lots of soils tones, stone and ashy, then tannins that are fairly aggressive, long, direct, a bit of forest floor on the palate, dry tannins clip the finish tamp it down. 88pts
2021 Franchetti Passopisciaro Contrada Rampante Etna Rosso
North, 1000 meters
Lacy, delicate but precise with great floral notes, hint of white pepper, and older wood note framing a hint of red fruit, cranberry toned, golden raspberry, Lots of sweetness to the cranberry and golden currant fruit flavors, lots of firm, nervous dustiness on the palate, deep yet light on the palate, vibrant and very long, fabulous tension in the mouth and fine grained dusty tannins, lovely wine, with a return of raspberry fruit on the finale. 92pts
2019 Barone di Villagrande Etna Rosso Contrada Villagrande
East of Etna, aged in chestnut
Very saline on the nose, dried flowers, dried red berry fruit, lots of macchia and dried herbal notes, baby powder. Quite open and juicy on the palate, broad with hints of prune in alcohol on the back palate, quite evolved already with firm, and almost egressive tannins, rustic, flavors are quite mature, still firm structure, lovely red cherry, red currant finale. 87pts
2016 Masseria Setteporte Nerello Mascalese ex magnum
700 meters south facing, only ss
Quite autumnal but sweet with caramel tones to the cough lozenge and tea core of aromas, Silkier on the palate, a bit of cola and leather early on the palate, lovely edge here, firm, racy acidity, stoney base notes, ashy edges to the dried berry fruit that emerges on the relatively long finish. Definitely intellectually rewarding and has an interesting place at the table, for my palate this is at peak. 89pts
2021 Breccia Fuoricampo Vigneti delle Dolomiti
Tight and dusty, smells very nervous, black raspberry, wild blackberry, bay leaf, light on the palate. Clean, fresh fruit in the mouth, polished supple tannins, juicy easy going but with an innate firmness, then long and rich with delicate blackberry fruits. Lovely easy going Teroldego. 86pts
2020 De Vescovi Ulzbach Vigilius Teroldego Rotaliano
A touch autumnal on the nose, deep, fresh turned earth, black cherry, hints of old wood shows as cognac and worn leather. Opulent but not vulgar, lovely and rich with fine plushness underpinned by fine grained tannins and river stone minerality. Builds on the palate with good power on the back palate before the minerality returns completely on the long finish which is all river stones and freshly crushed dark/black berry fruit. Great tension early on the palate, great stuff though definitely less approachable than most. 93pts
2016 Redondel Dannato Vigneto delle Dolomiti
Much more calcaire terrain, very alkaline
Reticent on the nose, more evolved but not old, steely, slow to emerge detergent florally, lilac, tense and restrained in the mouth, with remarkable depth here, this is still very fresh in the mouth if not fruity, harmony and balance, this is a different class of wine, so tense and long, an extraction of terroir, hints of pomegranate and orange peel emerge on the nose, along with balsamic grace notes, a little powerhouse, an aficionados wine. 93pts
2014 Foradori Sgarzon Teroldego
Tea, forest floor, and dried leaves grace the nose. Air brings out sour red berry and dark berry fruit, then floral notes emerge slowly, Almost sweet on entry, this is much fresher on entry than the nose would suggest, broad yet transparent, it drops off a bit on the palate, showing its age there a bit. Blackberry and black cherry fruit on the palate, hint of volatility lends lift especially on the backend, still is a bit short. 88pts