1980 Barolo Horizontal in 2014
Here’s an article that a slim chance of being written. Pull together a case of wine from a vintage that is deemed passable at best and drink them at 33 years of age. I mean what the hell do you expect to find?
How about:
People, even the experts don’t know much.
What is written about older vintages is a pile of steaming supposition.
We are just beginning to understand what makes for a good, age worthy wine.
There are moments when the wine Gods smile on you.
Let’s turn the lock back and think of the state of affairs in 1980. This was not the golden age in Piedmont. The previous decade had seen two great vintages (71 and 78, which was a small harvest) and two three modestly acclaimed vintages (70, 74 and 79). Historically about par for the course and balanced by unmitigated disasters in 72, 73, 75,76,77. Times were lean, and the temptation to aggrandize must have been strong. And yet no one really seems to have found much to like in the vintage. Contemporaneous accounts talk about a useful vintage. Quantity is mentioned more often than quality.
It was after all an easy story to recount. I mean, it SNOWED during the harvest. On the grapes. How can you make something useful out of that? Take a picture and write about the bad vintage, that’s how. In fact the entire growing season was supportive of just such a conclusion. Why else would growers be waiting until November, and snow, to harvest their fruit? Spring and early summer where unremarkable, if damp and cool, though there was enough nice weather in August and September to give producers hopes of a grand harvest. But then rain, followed by the snow arrived. How could one make great wine from this fruit? Obviously such a thing could not happen.
It might easily happen today, but 1980 was another era entirely in Piedmont. Luciano Sandrone was just turning out his own first vintage. Valentino Migliorini at Rocche dei Manzoni was a few vintages in to his enthusiastic use of barriques of French oak for ageing instead of the more traditional large format botte of Slavonian oak, yet the Barolo Boys were just a figment of imagination, a year or two away from fruition. Not only was the fruit under-ripe in 1980, but everyone’s facilities were, shall we say primitive. And unkempt as well.
So these wines from this rather well known vinous backwater came to market. They probably were fiercely tanic. Many of the wine I procured for this tasting were in fact Riservas, left in cask for years to try and tame the tannins. They came to market with people being entirely aware that truly great vintage was harvested in 1982. We wouldn’t want to overshadow what the expert have told us is a fabulous vintage, so perhaps our enthusiasm was tempered when these 1980s were first tasted. Let’s call them solid if uninspired and move on to something more interesting.
And that is exactly what the media did. And since then these wines have been little thought of. Probably consumed early in their lives seeing as the quality couldn’t warrant additional cellaring. They are tough to come by. I spent many years assembling the 12 bottles we tasted this day. They were not terribly expensive though, I’ll tell you that.
SO HOW COME THEY JUST PUT ON ONE OF THE GREATEST EXAMPLES OF EXCEEDING EXPECTATIONS THAT I HAVE JUST EXPERIENCED?
[PAGEBREAK]
OK, expectations were low, like loooooow, low. I’ve had a few examples from the vintage in the past. Nothing lead me to believe that the generally accepted impression of the vintage was wrong or misguided. They were interesting, solid wines that offered excellent value. Perhaps a bit of a sleeper vintage in that regard. No one was getting rich off reselling these. In fact no one was really selling them. There was no market for them, which might help to explain their performance this evening. Unlike wines from great vintages, traded like assets, these wines were probably only ever sold two or three times in their lives. That generally lowers the chance for mishandling. A factor in our favor but certainly not an explanation for the performance these wines put on.
Now, before I get carried away let me just set the record straight. 1980 is not a great Piedmontese vintage, but it is thisclose to being one. It lacks just a touch of the intensity and power of a great vintage, but it is very, very good. At least based on these wines. As a group the wines showed remarkable freshness. Brilliant clarity on the palate and detailed aromas and flavors. A bit on the higher acids side of things, but totally within expectations, and with rather rich tannins that have been softened by age.
I certainly expected less freshness, and way more autumnal aromas and flavors. These wines were still packed with zesty fruits, and were flat out delicious. I know that very few bottles of 1980 Barolo will show like these did. At this age there are only great bottles, but having so many show up in a single case makes a remarkable statement about the vintage. It was full of unrecognized potential, and in the hands of the top producers it has evolved into quintessential Barolo. Brilliant, complex and clear, intensely flavored yet free of any jaminess or cooked flavors that are often found in wines from ore highly acclaimed vintages.
This was simply the case of opening many bottles on the best day of their life to be opened. I double decanted the wines about 3 hours before service and that seems to have worked perfectly for these wines. they were gorgeous when they were poured with only the Giacomo Conterno and Giuseppe Rinaldi needing more time to truly open up. The Rinaldi is also the only wine that would really reward additional cellaring. I can see it going for another decade with ease. It was that rich, powerful, and relatively unevolved.
Three standouts of the evening were the Giacomo Conterno, Sobrero, and Prunotto Cannubi Riserva. Filippo Sobrero, whose last vintage was 1983 or so, and Beppe Colla at Prunotto get little attention these days. Both where at the top of there game decades ago and the quality of their wines tonight was absolutely fabulous. Actually, it’s more than likely that there are bottles out there of all of the top 6 wines that are waiting to wow the unsuspecting consumer. Which is why, of course, I spend the time doing this. Yes, it is undoubtedly for my own edification as well, but I could just take my notes and be done with it.
Sharing this information is decidedly a double edged sword. I may pique interest in the wines. Bring long ignored specimens back to the marketplace, but at the same time i will undoubtedly pique consumer’s interest as well. The prices for most 1980 Barolo do not reflect reality. They reflect the reality of 1990 perhaps, when no one really cared much for these wines, but not the reality of today.
Hopefully some of you out there might even share some 1980s you find with me. That would be nice and much appreciated, but my reward is just adding to the knowledge out there. Correcting some impressions that have been lingering for years. Those impressions reveal our lack of understanding more than anything else. We don’t fully understand what makes a great wine, or a great barolo in particular. When the vine needs heat to create the precursors that will deliver the profound aromatics that even wines from 1980 are capable of.
We don’t fully understand what happens in the bottle. How aggressive, hard tannins can eventually find the balance these wines have achieved. Plenty of voluptuous long chain polymers, yet enough edge to remain mildly and attractively austere in the mouth. Tastings like this help me to ask the right questions. they question common knowledge and inform our answers to and understanding of wine as a living thing. While this was a great tasting on a hedonistic level, it was great on an intellectual one as well. I am better prepared for my next visit to Piedmont, filled with questions that can only expand my understanding of the wines of the regions. An understanding I hope to continue to share with you.
The wines this evening were served in flights of three, with a missing wine that fell victim to the curse of the cork. The wines were served bling, and while I knew the wines in the tasting I did not know which wine was in each flight, except for the finale flight since we unveiled the wines as each flight was finished.
And just for those who might be interested. The biodynamic calendar says it was a flower day turning into a leaf day. Yes, after this performance I had to check!
I’m listing the wines in the order that they were tasted.
[PAGEBREAK]
Flight 1
1980 Filippo Sobrero Barolo
Intense on the nose with a touch of broth and a bit of celery seed revealing its evolution but those scents are quickly subsumed by rose petal, fennel seed, and cherries in alcohol aromas. This is a little coarse in the mouth, but with uncommon inner-mouth perfumes. There’s lots of raspberry and cranberry fruit here, and the bright acids and slightly astringent tannins help to keep the palate clear and brisk. With air this goes through a pretty significant transformation, turning elegant and refined in the mouth, with admirable freshness, then as the night wears on, revealing more of its evolved side. At its best this is a bit Giacosa-esque, though its window is relatively small. 92pts
1980 Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Monfalletto
On the nose this is marred by some dirty barrel notes but still managed to show an impressively intense array of floral, tobacco, and ivy laced aromas that are savory and rich. Smooth and polished on entry, then turning pleasantly plump in the mouth with simple yet attractive plum and black cherry fruit. The tannins lend some austerity to the finish, and a hint of elegance to an otherwise rather supple wine. Really quite lovely and typical of La Morra. 88pts
1980 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Torre
This might have been drinkable on it’s own but in this company all of its defects stood out. While showing some attractive white mushroom, leather and mint aromas this also had levels of chicken coop stink that were difficult to handle. resolved and rather lean in the mouth, this was a touch dried out though it retained a hint of blue framed black cherry fruit on the palate. A bit rough, powerful and raw in the mouth, this feels like a lot of press wine was used here. The nose clears up considerably with air, and while this holds a certain appeal with its powerful, tannic profile, it remains a rather ordinary wine. 85pts
Flight 2
1980 Cappellano Barolo
Tightly and leathery on the nose and full of black spice, mineral earth and black fruit that made me think immediately of Serralunga. Air brings out hints of dried fruit, fennel, parchment and chinato herbs. Such power on the palate, this is dense and chewy filled with black berry and black cherry fruit that is rustic but powerful. This has great snap on the palate and fine detail to the flavors with a subtly bitter and medicinal character emerging on the long finish. A brilliant wine that might improve, but the tannins will probably outlive the fruit.
1980 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Collina Rionda
Focused and complex on the nose with layers of briar, smoke, and mineral clay tones supporting slightly herbal fruit that shows hints of cinnamon spice. Smooth and polished in the mouth with attractive flavors that are a bit simple and slightly muddied on the palate. Still, this is showing a lovely slightly chewy texture built on tannins gently softened with age and might even improve a bit, though this drops off a touch on the finish revealing slightly bitter tannins. 91pts
1980 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche
Evolved on the nose and mineral scented with minty, spicy accents. In the mouth there is much the same with an over arching dirty barrel thing going on. By itself this would be fine to drink, though it is drying out and fraying at the edges. In tonights company it shows quite poorly, though most likely within expectations for the vintage. 84pts
[PAGEBREAK]
Flight 3
1980 Prunotto Cannubi Riserva
This has a flat out fantastic nose. I just smelled this for minutes. Absolutely textbook barolo and with toe curling detail. Roses and raw beef at first, then turning so fresh and precise on the nose with scents of rosehips, a flash of Italian plum, raspberries in alcohol, and finally hints of gunpowder, brown mushroom and faint edge of Gummi bear sweetness. Simply fantastic. In the mouth this is bright and so fresh retaining a rich, powerful core of red berry lingonberry fruit. The balance is superb, pinpoint with a long elegant finish carrying the pomegranate and mineral accented flavors from the palate to the finale. This was my wine of the night and a wine that can hold its own in any company. 94pts
1980 Giuseppe Rinaldi Brunate Riserva Selezionata
Intensely earthy and powerful on the nose with a huge roasted coffee tone to the core of black cherry fruit with hints of dried pine adding a hint of complexity and freshness. This is a big wine, and amazingly youthful. The fruit flavors are wild and intense, rich with raspberry and strawberry notes and picking up incipient truffle, black spie and blue fruit accents on the palate. This is seriously structured but you miss the acid and tannins on the first go’round due to the impressive concentration of fruit here. Obviously from a warmer site and rather typical of Brunate, this still has years of positive development in front of it. 92pts
1980 Vietti Barolo Rocche
Showing a lot of evolution on the nose, this is redolent of brewed tea, mushrooms, and earth framed with the gentle caramel sweetness of oxidation and topped with hints of poppy seeds. Clear and tense in the mouth, theres an early hint of cocoa here, rather reminiscent of a tootsie roll, followed by ephemeral and elegant if faded rose petal, raspberry and dusty, earthy flavors. Smaller scaled and past peak this still shows an edge of refinement and nuanced flavors. 87pts
Flight 4
1980 Aldo Conterno Bricco Bussia Vigna Colonnello
A distinctive and gorgeous nose that brings together a bit of pink peppercorn spice with earth, licorice, dried herbs and angelica root fills the glass. Tis is the only wine that shows a bit of extra-ripeness to it with an early suggestion of raisin on the palate. The texture also shows in a armer style with a roundness and softness that the other wines of this vintage mostly lack. Fairly fruit, if a bit short and simple, this is a bit of a sandy, mineral laced wines that is at a good place in its life but just misses the mark. 88pts
1980 Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia
Immediately complex on the nose with complex aromas of iron, mint, nettles coffee bean, roses and spice accenting a core of rusty red fruit. This is a big wine and it needs more time but over the course of an hour it reveals powerful and medicinal black fruit flavors in a style that remains masculine yet elegant and refined. A burst of sliced orange greets the palate followed by sliced cherry and plum flavors that lead to the long and powerful finish, which is filled with licorice, dried orange peel and herbal nuances. This just misses greatness, lacking the extra depth that would push it over the edge, but it is a fabulous wine. 93pts
How about:
People, even the experts don’t know much.
What is written about older vintages is a pile of steaming supposition.
We are just beginning to understand what makes for a good, age worthy wine.
There are moments when the wine Gods smile on you.
Let’s turn the lock back and think of the state of affairs in 1980. This was not the golden age in Piedmont. The previous decade had seen two great vintages (71 and 78, which was a small harvest) and two three modestly acclaimed vintages (70, 74 and 79). Historically about par for the course and balanced by unmitigated disasters in 72, 73, 75,76,77. Times were lean, and the temptation to aggrandize must have been strong. And yet no one really seems to have found much to like in the vintage. Contemporaneous accounts talk about a useful vintage. Quantity is mentioned more often than quality.
It was after all an easy story to recount. I mean, it SNOWED during the harvest. On the grapes. How can you make something useful out of that? Take a picture and write about the bad vintage, that’s how. In fact the entire growing season was supportive of just such a conclusion. Why else would growers be waiting until November, and snow, to harvest their fruit? Spring and early summer where unremarkable, if damp and cool, though there was enough nice weather in August and September to give producers hopes of a grand harvest. But then rain, followed by the snow arrived. How could one make great wine from this fruit? Obviously such a thing could not happen.
It might easily happen today, but 1980 was another era entirely in Piedmont. Luciano Sandrone was just turning out his own first vintage. Valentino Migliorini at Rocche dei Manzoni was a few vintages in to his enthusiastic use of barriques of French oak for ageing instead of the more traditional large format botte of Slavonian oak, yet the Barolo Boys were just a figment of imagination, a year or two away from fruition. Not only was the fruit under-ripe in 1980, but everyone’s facilities were, shall we say primitive. And unkempt as well.
So these wines from this rather well known vinous backwater came to market. They probably were fiercely tanic. Many of the wine I procured for this tasting were in fact Riservas, left in cask for years to try and tame the tannins. They came to market with people being entirely aware that truly great vintage was harvested in 1982. We wouldn’t want to overshadow what the expert have told us is a fabulous vintage, so perhaps our enthusiasm was tempered when these 1980s were first tasted. Let’s call them solid if uninspired and move on to something more interesting.
And that is exactly what the media did. And since then these wines have been little thought of. Probably consumed early in their lives seeing as the quality couldn’t warrant additional cellaring. They are tough to come by. I spent many years assembling the 12 bottles we tasted this day. They were not terribly expensive though, I’ll tell you that.
SO HOW COME THEY JUST PUT ON ONE OF THE GREATEST EXAMPLES OF EXCEEDING EXPECTATIONS THAT I HAVE JUST EXPERIENCED?
[PAGEBREAK]
OK, expectations were low, like loooooow, low. I’ve had a few examples from the vintage in the past. Nothing lead me to believe that the generally accepted impression of the vintage was wrong or misguided. They were interesting, solid wines that offered excellent value. Perhaps a bit of a sleeper vintage in that regard. No one was getting rich off reselling these. In fact no one was really selling them. There was no market for them, which might help to explain their performance this evening. Unlike wines from great vintages, traded like assets, these wines were probably only ever sold two or three times in their lives. That generally lowers the chance for mishandling. A factor in our favor but certainly not an explanation for the performance these wines put on.
Now, before I get carried away let me just set the record straight. 1980 is not a great Piedmontese vintage, but it is thisclose to being one. It lacks just a touch of the intensity and power of a great vintage, but it is very, very good. At least based on these wines. As a group the wines showed remarkable freshness. Brilliant clarity on the palate and detailed aromas and flavors. A bit on the higher acids side of things, but totally within expectations, and with rather rich tannins that have been softened by age.
I certainly expected less freshness, and way more autumnal aromas and flavors. These wines were still packed with zesty fruits, and were flat out delicious. I know that very few bottles of 1980 Barolo will show like these did. At this age there are only great bottles, but having so many show up in a single case makes a remarkable statement about the vintage. It was full of unrecognized potential, and in the hands of the top producers it has evolved into quintessential Barolo. Brilliant, complex and clear, intensely flavored yet free of any jaminess or cooked flavors that are often found in wines from ore highly acclaimed vintages.
This was simply the case of opening many bottles on the best day of their life to be opened. I double decanted the wines about 3 hours before service and that seems to have worked perfectly for these wines. they were gorgeous when they were poured with only the Giacomo Conterno and Giuseppe Rinaldi needing more time to truly open up. The Rinaldi is also the only wine that would really reward additional cellaring. I can see it going for another decade with ease. It was that rich, powerful, and relatively unevolved.
Three standouts of the evening were the Giacomo Conterno, Sobrero, and Prunotto Cannubi Riserva. Filippo Sobrero, whose last vintage was 1983 or so, and Beppe Colla at Prunotto get little attention these days. Both where at the top of there game decades ago and the quality of their wines tonight was absolutely fabulous. Actually, it’s more than likely that there are bottles out there of all of the top 6 wines that are waiting to wow the unsuspecting consumer. Which is why, of course, I spend the time doing this. Yes, it is undoubtedly for my own edification as well, but I could just take my notes and be done with it.
Sharing this information is decidedly a double edged sword. I may pique interest in the wines. Bring long ignored specimens back to the marketplace, but at the same time i will undoubtedly pique consumer’s interest as well. The prices for most 1980 Barolo do not reflect reality. They reflect the reality of 1990 perhaps, when no one really cared much for these wines, but not the reality of today.
Hopefully some of you out there might even share some 1980s you find with me. That would be nice and much appreciated, but my reward is just adding to the knowledge out there. Correcting some impressions that have been lingering for years. Those impressions reveal our lack of understanding more than anything else. We don’t fully understand what makes a great wine, or a great barolo in particular. When the vine needs heat to create the precursors that will deliver the profound aromatics that even wines from 1980 are capable of.
We don’t fully understand what happens in the bottle. How aggressive, hard tannins can eventually find the balance these wines have achieved. Plenty of voluptuous long chain polymers, yet enough edge to remain mildly and attractively austere in the mouth. Tastings like this help me to ask the right questions. they question common knowledge and inform our answers to and understanding of wine as a living thing. While this was a great tasting on a hedonistic level, it was great on an intellectual one as well. I am better prepared for my next visit to Piedmont, filled with questions that can only expand my understanding of the wines of the regions. An understanding I hope to continue to share with you.
The wines this evening were served in flights of three, with a missing wine that fell victim to the curse of the cork. The wines were served bling, and while I knew the wines in the tasting I did not know which wine was in each flight, except for the finale flight since we unveiled the wines as each flight was finished.
And just for those who might be interested. The biodynamic calendar says it was a flower day turning into a leaf day. Yes, after this performance I had to check!
I’m listing the wines in the order that they were tasted.
[PAGEBREAK]
Flight 1
1980 Filippo Sobrero Barolo
Intense on the nose with a touch of broth and a bit of celery seed revealing its evolution but those scents are quickly subsumed by rose petal, fennel seed, and cherries in alcohol aromas. This is a little coarse in the mouth, but with uncommon inner-mouth perfumes. There’s lots of raspberry and cranberry fruit here, and the bright acids and slightly astringent tannins help to keep the palate clear and brisk. With air this goes through a pretty significant transformation, turning elegant and refined in the mouth, with admirable freshness, then as the night wears on, revealing more of its evolved side. At its best this is a bit Giacosa-esque, though its window is relatively small. 92pts
1980 Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Monfalletto
On the nose this is marred by some dirty barrel notes but still managed to show an impressively intense array of floral, tobacco, and ivy laced aromas that are savory and rich. Smooth and polished on entry, then turning pleasantly plump in the mouth with simple yet attractive plum and black cherry fruit. The tannins lend some austerity to the finish, and a hint of elegance to an otherwise rather supple wine. Really quite lovely and typical of La Morra. 88pts
1980 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Torre
This might have been drinkable on it’s own but in this company all of its defects stood out. While showing some attractive white mushroom, leather and mint aromas this also had levels of chicken coop stink that were difficult to handle. resolved and rather lean in the mouth, this was a touch dried out though it retained a hint of blue framed black cherry fruit on the palate. A bit rough, powerful and raw in the mouth, this feels like a lot of press wine was used here. The nose clears up considerably with air, and while this holds a certain appeal with its powerful, tannic profile, it remains a rather ordinary wine. 85pts
Flight 2
1980 Cappellano Barolo
Tightly and leathery on the nose and full of black spice, mineral earth and black fruit that made me think immediately of Serralunga. Air brings out hints of dried fruit, fennel, parchment and chinato herbs. Such power on the palate, this is dense and chewy filled with black berry and black cherry fruit that is rustic but powerful. This has great snap on the palate and fine detail to the flavors with a subtly bitter and medicinal character emerging on the long finish. A brilliant wine that might improve, but the tannins will probably outlive the fruit.
1980 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Collina Rionda
Focused and complex on the nose with layers of briar, smoke, and mineral clay tones supporting slightly herbal fruit that shows hints of cinnamon spice. Smooth and polished in the mouth with attractive flavors that are a bit simple and slightly muddied on the palate. Still, this is showing a lovely slightly chewy texture built on tannins gently softened with age and might even improve a bit, though this drops off a touch on the finish revealing slightly bitter tannins. 91pts
1980 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche
Evolved on the nose and mineral scented with minty, spicy accents. In the mouth there is much the same with an over arching dirty barrel thing going on. By itself this would be fine to drink, though it is drying out and fraying at the edges. In tonights company it shows quite poorly, though most likely within expectations for the vintage. 84pts
[PAGEBREAK]
Flight 3
1980 Prunotto Cannubi Riserva
This has a flat out fantastic nose. I just smelled this for minutes. Absolutely textbook barolo and with toe curling detail. Roses and raw beef at first, then turning so fresh and precise on the nose with scents of rosehips, a flash of Italian plum, raspberries in alcohol, and finally hints of gunpowder, brown mushroom and faint edge of Gummi bear sweetness. Simply fantastic. In the mouth this is bright and so fresh retaining a rich, powerful core of red berry lingonberry fruit. The balance is superb, pinpoint with a long elegant finish carrying the pomegranate and mineral accented flavors from the palate to the finale. This was my wine of the night and a wine that can hold its own in any company. 94pts
1980 Giuseppe Rinaldi Brunate Riserva Selezionata
Intensely earthy and powerful on the nose with a huge roasted coffee tone to the core of black cherry fruit with hints of dried pine adding a hint of complexity and freshness. This is a big wine, and amazingly youthful. The fruit flavors are wild and intense, rich with raspberry and strawberry notes and picking up incipient truffle, black spie and blue fruit accents on the palate. This is seriously structured but you miss the acid and tannins on the first go’round due to the impressive concentration of fruit here. Obviously from a warmer site and rather typical of Brunate, this still has years of positive development in front of it. 92pts
1980 Vietti Barolo Rocche
Showing a lot of evolution on the nose, this is redolent of brewed tea, mushrooms, and earth framed with the gentle caramel sweetness of oxidation and topped with hints of poppy seeds. Clear and tense in the mouth, theres an early hint of cocoa here, rather reminiscent of a tootsie roll, followed by ephemeral and elegant if faded rose petal, raspberry and dusty, earthy flavors. Smaller scaled and past peak this still shows an edge of refinement and nuanced flavors. 87pts
Flight 4
1980 Aldo Conterno Bricco Bussia Vigna Colonnello
A distinctive and gorgeous nose that brings together a bit of pink peppercorn spice with earth, licorice, dried herbs and angelica root fills the glass. Tis is the only wine that shows a bit of extra-ripeness to it with an early suggestion of raisin on the palate. The texture also shows in a armer style with a roundness and softness that the other wines of this vintage mostly lack. Fairly fruit, if a bit short and simple, this is a bit of a sandy, mineral laced wines that is at a good place in its life but just misses the mark. 88pts
1980 Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia
Immediately complex on the nose with complex aromas of iron, mint, nettles coffee bean, roses and spice accenting a core of rusty red fruit. This is a big wine and it needs more time but over the course of an hour it reveals powerful and medicinal black fruit flavors in a style that remains masculine yet elegant and refined. A burst of sliced orange greets the palate followed by sliced cherry and plum flavors that lead to the long and powerful finish, which is filled with licorice, dried orange peel and herbal nuances. This just misses greatness, lacking the extra depth that would push it over the edge, but it is a fabulous wine. 93pts