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Barolo 2010-2009 tasted at Prowein2015


As I am planning my upcoming trip to Piedmont, to taste the 2011 in bottle, for a fourth and final time, and explore 2012 in Barbaresco I think it a good time to explore my expectations for the vintage, as well as some of the results that I have already enjoyed.

From my earliest experiences with the 2011 vintage in Barolo I was thrilled by what I tasted. This, very simply, is the vintage that you were sold in 1990, 1997, and 2007. You remember all those promises right? Most haven’t exactly panned out.

Warm vintages seemed to wow the critics with their early and copious fruit, though today cool vintages are more exalted, even if possibly too cool. I believe part of this is the result of all the early optimism for warm vintages. Optimism that was rarely warranted as the wines themselves bore witness to over the years. Today we might just be too cautious to notice what we have.

"At this point it seems to me analogous to a Mazda Miata for any sports car fans out there. Not the most powerful vintage, nor with the crispest lines, though it is incredibly fun and playful!"

People seem to winegasm over warmer vintages where the structure of Nebbiolo is seemingly tempered, covered by rich, creamy fruit. You don’t have to take my word for it, just go back and see how the media responded to the previous mentioned warm vintages, then follow up and see how the vintages have actually have fared and how they are now regarded with a bit more perspective available.

Curiously critics seem to have very cautious optimism for 2011 Barolo, most likely as a direct result of being burned so frequently before with their earliest vintage prognostications. This should be taken as more of an indictment of the critic's ability as opposed to the character of the vintage, or it’s reticence, late blooming nature, or transformation in botte, bottle, or glass. All of which is smoke and mirrors used to help deflect attention from the wine media’s general inability to understand Nebbiolo at an early age. Perhaps a symptom of giant robo-tastings, as some in the hobby have called them.

So why should you read and believe anything I write? A very valid question. I would suggest first going back to see what I have written over the years. Does it agree with your impressions of the wines and experiences with the vintages? If it does read on. If not, so be it.

I’m not here to validate opinions or buying habits. I’m also not here to fawn over just about every wine in an effort to get my name out there. I am here to simply give you my impressions on these wines, wines, as a typology, with which I’ve had a 30 year love affair.

You’ll find that my notes tend to limited in scope. I visit each winery I report on, or in the case of today’s take I visited each winery at their stand in Germany at Prowein 2015.

Why would I go to Germany to taste Italian wines? Simply look at the line-up. I tasted with all these producers in a single day. An effort that might have taken three days in the Langhe was condensed due to the efficiency and drawing power of the Prowein wine festival in Dusseldorf Germany. If you are a wine professional you should really spend some time at Prowein. I not only tasted all these Piemontese wines but also tasted a whole range of wines from Chianti, Bordeaux, Germany, and the Iberian peninsula, but more on those wines at a later date. Today it’s Piemonte!

I am thoroughly excited to be returning to take another look at the 2011 vintage in Barolo. As I’ve mentioned this is a vintage that I have always thought highly of. It’s the most promising so-called warm vintage I’ve tried, though being labelled with the stigma of the warm vintage moniker does the wines a disservice, for while the vintage was warm, in that there were many warm days during the growing season and lingering through the harvest, it was never really excessively hot.

The results seem to speak for themselves, though the coming two weeks will leave me with a much better informed opinion of the vintage. At this point it seems to me analogous to a Mazda Miata for any sports car fans out there. Not the most powerful vintage, nor with the crispest lines, though it is incredibly fun and playful! Seriously, these wines just continue to impress and improve. There’s tons of fruit all red and sweet, but rarely so heavy that the underlying terroir is obscured. At the same time acidity is integrated but present and the tannins, powerful yet generally wonderfully ripe, often a huge issue in warmer vintages as vintners try to balance tannin ripeness and sugar accumulation at harvest.

The downside to the vintage in that there is one is the alcohol. 15% is not uncommon, so cooler sites may very well have outperformed as a whole here. Look at the results coming from Ravera for example, a cru where it has been notoriously difficult to fully ripen the tannins in all but the finest vintages. Unripe tannins do also make an appearance from time to time, but seeing as I am not visiting all wineries to taste these wines but am focused on those that produce at a consistently high level it's no surprise that almost all producers were able to achieve a fine balance between physiological ripeness and sugar levels.

The style of the wines, as a group, seems to be surprisingly elegant given the sheer richness, surprisingly elegant given the accumulation of heat over the summer, and surprisingly precocious, given the structure that many wines show. These should be wines that drink well early but many wines will age two decades effortlessly and I wouldn't be surprised if we were still thrilled by them as they hit their thirties!

What follows are sometimes brief impressions from a handful of wineries tasted at Prowein, including several still showing 2010 Barolo. To a certain extent that ship has sailed and you all should be very well informed regarding the quality there. In fact several of the top 2010 Barolos have already disappeared from the marketplace, making additional, timely information on these 2011s even more important.

I will follow up with additional impressions of the 2011 vintage shortly but allow me one final observation here regarding pricing and availability of the top wines of Piedmont. They have entered a period of stratification and acceleration of pricing like never before. Call it the Burgundification of Barolo, I have. The top producers will be searching for their new baseline pricing, which might not arrive for some time yet. I would suggest, based on tasting these wines out of barrel and bottle, that if you enjoy producers such as Bartolo Mascarello, Giuseppe Rinaldi, and Cappellano, that you snatch up whatever comes across your path. These wines will form the top tier of Barolo pricing, coming in just under wines such as Monfortino, Vietti’s Villero Riserva, and Mauro Mascarello’s Ca di Morissio. They are presently at my limit of affordability and I fully expect that the next ‘great’ vintage will move them out of my comfort zone.

Wines to watch out from this tasting include:

  • 2011 Vietti Barolo Rocche
  • 2011 G. D. Vajra Barolo Ravera
  • 2011 Baudana Barolo Baudana
  • 2011 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito
  • 2011 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi
  • 2011 Massolino Barolo Parafada
  • 2010 Barale Barolo Castellero
  • 2011 Oberto Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata

With an under the radar highlight from:
2010 Cascina Ballarin Barolo Bussia



Attilio Ghisolfi


2010 Attilio Ghisolfi Barolo Bussia

Nicely aromatic with interesting smoky, flinty nuances layered over cooler aromatics and slightly minty basenotes.  Still showing a touch of SO2, this shows nice depth on the nose. In the mouth one finds a wine that is a bit chewy, deep and wiry with subtle cherry fruit, ripe tannins, and good length. It’s a bit rustic but recognizable for what it is, powering through on the moderately long finale. 87pts


2010 Attilio Ghisolfi Barolo Bricco Visette

Fruitier and more floral on the nose though again with fine menthol top notes. This is a decided step up from Bussia in aromatic freshness and depth. Clear on the palate, with nice detail to the nuanced, gentle, and even feminine expression of Nebbiolo. The length here is fabulous with rosehips, a hint of Brett, and minty-cherry fruit saturating the finale. the midplate shows nice elegance and balance but one might perhaps wish for a bit more flesh.  90pts



G. D. Vajra

2011 G. D. Vajra Barolo Albe

Super ripe strawberries greet the nose which shows a notable sweetness underlying the spice, light camphor and gunpowder notes. This grows in the glass to reveal balsamic, and incipient tar notes as well. Really a  lovely and important vintage here with more power than I usually find in the Albe and great depth, elegance to the fresh berry fruit that is laced with bitter medicinal notes through the rather long finish. 91pts


2011 G. D. Vajra Barolo Ravera

Intense, extract of herb and bovril on the nose along with spiced floral and soil tones. A rich wine, a bit sauvage as well with its deep layers of mineral earth on the palate. There’s great cut to the wild cherry fruit here, amarena cherry that covers the palate and leads to a tannic finish, showing slightly dry tannins and hints of a stemmy quality with hints of cocoa and spice on the finale. Really impressive. 93pts


2011 G. D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole

Fruity on the nose with layers of  smoky, sweet earth, and hints of tobacco. Soft across the palate with fine acids, this is nicely  aromatic the mouth, with herbal nuance and perfumes of rosepetals leading to a long finish that shows soft, elegant tannins that tighten up nicely on the finale. there are masses of fruit peeking out here and there but his is a bit reticent today, though no doubt that the fruit will emerge with time. 92pts


2011 Baudana Barolo Ceretta

Super extract of wild cherry, medicinal herb notes, and nettles pop from the glass. In the mouth this starts off as crisp and rich, with dark cherry fruit in a deep and muscular style that shows a certain leanness on the midpalate with flavors of cola and leather leading to a tough finish with hard tannins. A bit of a brute and turning tougher with air. 89pts


2011 Baudana Barolo Baudana

Lovely deep soil and medicinal aromas grace the nose and show up on the palate as well where one is confronted with impressive depth and complexity. This has a lovely texture, complete and seamless, there's fine detail here as well with mineral depth framing rich dark cherry fruit that is supported elegantly by fine edged tannins. Long with great persistence to the dark cherry fruit that gain a medicinal edge on the finish this is massively tannic on the finale but the tannins are ripe. A powerhouse that I’d love to have in my cellar. 93pts


Vietti


2011 Vietti Barolo Castiglione

Nice fruit in alcohol aromas grace the  big nose here which presents with good freshness. Rather elegant and transparent on the palate, there’s fine cut here to the cherry and strawberry fruit supported by balanced tannins and juicy acidity. The fruit is framed with a slightly mineral edge, though this has perhaps a bit less complexity showing today than past vintages.  90pts


2011 Vietti Barolo Brunate

Big cherries in alcohol on the nose is layered over spice notes, soil, and a bit of a beefy, roasted edge. Early on the palate this is a bit softly textured, though it turns more rather well knit on the palate with burnished fruit flavors that do retain some delicacy and transparency. Not as effusive as one might expect, and in fact rather restrained and quite pretty in the mouth, with more structure building on the finale, though this seems to me to be  just a bit simple today. 91pts


2011 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito

Tight on the nose with a low soil note lurking under nuanced tobacco and game notes adding complexity. There’s a little blueberry ripeness here early on the palate then this turns gorgeously balsamic with great height and purity to the fruit. Really makes a terrific impression on the palate followed by a finish that is elegant and long with terrific persistence to the fruit, with tannins that are supple if imposing. 93pts


2011 Vietti Barolo Rocche

Sweet aromatics greet the nose, all smoky strawberry fruit, blue fruit, and spice notes with a hint of dried bitter citrus peels. This is surprisingly supple in the mouth, totally in balance with the supple tannins and fine acidity supporting menthol and balsamic laced red berry, raspberry fruit on the palate. Today it comes off as slightly lean on the midpalate, but the fruit builds on the backend, supported by impressively fine tannins that linger on the finale. Elegance and power. 94pts



2011 Vietti Barolo Ravera


Wow, this has medicinal herbs all over the nose along with sweet cherry fruit and all sorts of menthol and smoky detail notes.  There's a sweetness here on the palate with tannins that are fully ripe lending good length to the rich and slightly earthy and herbal fruit in the mouth. This is a great success in this vintage if still not quite at the top level of wines in this portfolio. 92pts



Barale


2010 Barale Barolo Castellero

Spicy in a very focused middle eastern spice way on the nose which comes off as high toned with burnished cherry fruit and a meaty hint on the nose. With great freshness and tannic load in the mouth this comes off as quite rich with bright acids helping the fruit to explode on the backend before quickly shutting down on the finish. Very soil driven on the finish, this is excellent if perhaps showing a whisper of heat. 92pts


2010 Barale Barolo Bussia

Tighter nose showing a bit of old wood in a cedary, spicy way along with fresh lingonberry, rosehip and sweet raspberry fruit. Softer, and creamier in the mouth than the Castellero with tannins that are superbly ripe and fine, though with comparable inner mouth perfumes that are fairly complex with all sorts of aromatic wood spicy and balsamic herb notes accenting the dried slightly unripe fruit, admittedly a bit of an odd profile.  With nice length this comes across as transparent and layered; a lovely wine but I prefer the Castellero. 92pts



Cascina Ballarin


2010 Cascina Ballarin Barolo Tre Ciabot

Meaty and dried on the nose with dried flowers and a hint of older wood. A bit diffuse on the palate, which shows dried fruit and floral flavors with tannins that are not imposing but make their presence known. This really has very pretty cherry and raspberry fruit on the palate though it is a little simple. 88pts


2010 Cascina Ballarin Barolo Bricco Rocca

Older style nose with the influence of wood oxidation obvious in the composition of leather dried cherry and spice aromas. The palate opens with vibrant acids, relatively supple tannins and attractive lipstick and dried rose framed strawberry fruit that is not jammy but fairly ripe and saccharine. Finishing with good length, this comes across as more classic than one might expect. 90pts


2010 Cascina Ballarin Barolo Bussia

Small earthy aromas greet the nose followed by chocolate covered cherry fruit and strawberries doused with black pepper and balsamico. Elegant and supple in the mouth, yet with admirable focus in a rather easygoing package. Again one finds rather fine and classic inner mouth perfumes paired with an innate sweetness, supported by tightly packed tannins and finishing with good length. 91pts



Monchiero


2011 Monchiero Barolo

Nice fruity nose rich with the perfumes of sandalwood. In the mouth this is sweet yet traditional, a touch soft,with fruit that is a bit mineral over light shadings of burnished wild cherry fruit. Fairly classic, nothing stands out but this is very nicely done and traditional in a squeaky clean style. 87pts


2010 Monchiero Barolo

Lovely nose, even here with a smaller style one finds a lovely purity and freshness on the smoky soil driven nose replete with little wild flowers. A bit soft on entry,  though with good acids making this clear and fresh on the palate. Elegant with good length and dusty tannins, this is almost ready, good to go in a classic traditional slightly dilute way. 88pts


2008 Monchiero Barolo Riserva

Very floral on the nose with layers of  small woodland berries under alcohol and the smell of old wood woven together. This carries a soft sweetness to the bright, rich and broad palate. Not overtly fruity, though what is here is fresh and bright with a feminine quality to the nettles laced strawberry fruit that lingers on the palate. 89pts  



Burlotto


2011 Burlotto Barolo

Jammy but fresh on the nose with hints of eucalyptus framing red raspberry and strawberry fruit.  Juicy in the mouth with lovely edges to the burnished fruit that shows gorgeous depth and detail picking up some sandalwood on the backend. This is very perfumed, packed with fruit but it's all fresh fruit. A lovely introduction to the vintage. 90pts


2011 Burlotto Barolo Acclivi

Deep with a savory nose that is a little smoky, showing lots of ripe burnished fruit under alcohol. Elegant in the mound fresh, all open and long, this shows incredible freshness and detail for a wine sporting in excess of 15% alcohol. 91pts


2011 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero

Insane strawberries on the nose are wrapped with hints of cinnamon and incipient hints of thyme like savoriness. On entry this shows off nice dusty spicy notes, with soft acids that are a little lower than usual, and soft tannins. An elegant wine, with nice depth of fruit, and tannins that are super ripe with very ripe stems notes leading to a savory finish that shows the heat a bit more and is a touch clipped by it. Dark olive and dried herb nuances emerge with air and while the nose here is fabulous the palate trails it just a bit. 92pts


2011 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi

All roses and soil, and low spice notes with balsamic, camphor with menthol top notes, this shows impressive complexity.  Soft, bright and open in the mouth, this is perhaps a touch loose on the midpalate, though nice acids and very small tannins underpinning the palate.  Boy do those tannins build on the finish, around a core of super savory and spicy sweet ripe fruit. Structured and long, this promises some great evolution. 93pts


Massolino


2011 Massolino Barolo

Raspberry pops on the noise framed by tarry, floral fennel notes and hints of iron. Elegant on the palate with nice poise and purity to the deep fruit. The  tannins here are small, and acids relatively high, helping to lend nice length to the juicy fruit that really pops on the finish, and there is lots of fruit. Absolutely terrific. 91pts


2011 Massolino Barolo Margheria

Deep and rich on the nose with prune, spice and soil tones. Fresh if a touch hot on entry, then clear on the palate, though lacking  a hint of detail in the mouth, but this is full of raspberry fruit, with a little orange peel and sandalwood spice leading from the palate to the long soft finish, rich with tannins, bright and fresh. 91pts


2011 Massolino Barolo Parafada

One finds another layer of complexity here,  spicy and deep, and perhaps showing its alcohol a bit more, though rich with clear, stony, cherry pit fruit. Elegant and refined, this is already stunning with complexity, freshness, and an equilibrium that allows for great length in the mouth. There's so much sweet fruit here but it's balanced by impressive complexity, rosehips, soil, rivers stones and a light floral extract element. The alcohol is less bothersome in the mouth, well covered by the intensity of flavor and yet this still retains a certain sense of elegance. This is fabulous. 93pts


2011 Maassolino Barolo Parussi

Deep sweet clay soil and tobacco wrapped aromas that show hints of dark plummy, dried berry fruit greet the nose. Soft and broad on entry then the tannins spike, a bit austere and lean. This is less harmonious than the others wines in the portfolio, still showing great fruit and good complexity but the balance isn't quite there. The tannins are massive on the finish, which shows good length, just edgy, powerful tannins to contend with. 90pts


Oberto


2011 Oberto Barolo

Spicy hints on the nose accent rather gentle and subtle fruit. This is fairly soft and approachable in the mouth with a fine silky texture though it is most notable for that texture and the delicate purity of its fruit than for any detail. 86pts


2011 Oberto Barolo Albarella

Shows a bit of smoke on the nose over wild cherry fruit with a bit of meat and some hints of wood from malo in barrique. Round and bright in the mouth with soft tannins that are creamy and well rounded, supporting hints of bitter cherry fruit in a very fresh and transparent style. 88pts


2011 Oberto Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata

Tight on the nose, which is all rose buds and licorice with dark forest berry fruits. Nice and fruity in the mouth and full of rich licorice accents. This is packed with fruit and while this is a bit difficult today, the structure is balanced and built on ripe tannins in harmony with the fruit. Really pretty compelling and with the persistence of the fruit on the finale I can this evolving positively in the cellar. 92pts


2011 Oberto Barolo Brunate

A hint of roasted fruit greets the nose. On the palate one finds  soft ripe tannins and a pretty wide open feel. A bit chewy in the mouth, this is rich with dark cherry fruit that picks up some spice nuances and red licorice on the midpalate and light medicinal notes through the tight finish which reveals fairly significant tannins. Well balanced is a touch chunky 89pts


Sobrero


2011 Sobrero Barolo Ciabot Tanasio

Deep nose with big camphor, tar and fennel flower notes, as well as exotic spice notes from extended wood ageing. This shows lovely fruit on the palate with polished, ripe tannins and a bit of the warmth of the vintage but remains fresh and detailed in the mouth with good length and nice lift, though it is lacking some bass notes while remaining full of tenor and treble. 88pts


2010 Sobrero Barolo Ciabot Tanasio

Carob, licorice, cooked beef, and lots of old wood character mark the nose. While light, focused, and finely texture, this lacks some of the aromatics of the 2011, which wasn't that perfumed any way. Elegant, with good length and fine tannins, this blends complex, medicinal tertiary notes with the remaining fresh fruit in a way that makes it appealing over the short term. 86pts


2009 Sobrero Barolo Riserva Pernanno

Rich fruit and floral character on the nose is joined by leather, camphor, and ivy like floral notes. Round, rich, opulent, and even a bit fruity in the mouth with sweet strawberry notes, this has good depth and remains fairly elegant with spicy top notes. Young and with promise, to the small berry notes that follow through with good persistence on the dry, tannic finish. 89pts






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