The New California
California, the land of sunshine, free spirits, and big wines. Right? Yes, of course, all that is true but today we are seeing that free spirited attitude change the paradigm for wine production. Some might say that we are witnessing a return to a different style of wine. Fresher, lower in alcohol and having more in common with wines produced several decades ago or, gasp, with the wines of Europe.
The truth is that the style of wines is indeed changing, though not exactly returning to its previous state. Too many things have changed over the decades. Vine trellising, clonal selection, and rootstock selection, not to mention the influence of climate change all mean that we simply do not have the resources to return to the previous era. Instead we are witnessing the emergence of a new California Paradigm. One that achieves balance primarily through harvesting at a lower sugar level, yielding wines with lower alcohol, higher acids, and a different flavor profile that one typically associates with wines from California. there are different motivations behind the production of these wines but the best synopsis of that motivation comes in the form of a quote from Matthew Rorick, producer of the Forlorn Hope wines.
“I’m not trying to make low alcohol wines, I’m just trying to make wines without adds (additions).”
This mentality, one that does return to an earlier time when wine was made from grapes and didn’t include additions of color, tannins, acids, and the like, is driving a renaissance in California and the results are unlike anything that we have recently experienced from their sunbaked vineyards. It takes guts to make these wines. Guts, and the confidence to do things differently. Markus Bockisch in Lodi, whose wines I shall be reporting on shortly, admits as much when he discusses his Albarino. The idea of picking before the flavors seemed to have developed in the grapes was a difficult one to make, but time has proven that these flavors do emerge in the finished wines. Perhaps frustratingly slowly, but wine is not simply grape juice. It is something closer to magic than to science and the truth is that we still know painfully little about what a finished wines may taste like based solely on the flavors of the grapes themselves.
While all of these developments are exciting, they are not in fact new, though their blossoming in the industry is a new occurrence. One simply has to look at the wines Steve Edmunds has been making at Edmunds St. John for the evidence. Steve’s wines from a decades long path to the past that leads directly to these wines. the mentality to produce that veer from the preconceived notions of what great wines is have always been simmering just beneath the surface in California, and are just now bubbling up to reach a broader audience. Whether that means grape varieties that we may not be familiar with, skin contact whites, or the lower alcohol wines that are symbolic of this trend, they are all fascinating developments.
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While these wines may not be to everyone’s liking, and in fact are often panned by the critics for lacking something that we self-appointed experts deem to be inherently important to “great” wines, they simply expand the pantheon of the possible. I love the fact that there is a greater variety of wines being produced than ever before and for my palate things are moving in the right direction. Mistakes get made of course. In an effort to move the needle grapes have been picked too early, wines have been made that are lean, under-ripe, and uninteresting, but who cares. To achieve great things one has to be willing to take great risks.
That risk has been the limiting factor with wines in many ways. A big winery can’t take a risk with their large scale production. producers paying thousands of dollars a ton for fruit can’t afford to take a risk with their investment. In many ways that is what is probably driving these wines. Producers seek out the obscure, because it’s less expensive, and more interesting in some case. less expensive means a greater propensity to take a risk. that is where we are at today. Cabernet is expensive, Carignane much less so. I’m not sure why we see more Carignane from these risk takers but if I had to place a bet I’d say it all boils down to pricing.
The revolution in the wine industry, with custom crush facilities and mobile bottling lines leveling the playing field has contributed to this Old is new movement as well. But, at it’s heart I think what we are seeing is a level of dissatisfaction with the wines being producing, as well as the confidence to say just that. The internet has contributed to the viability of these projects as well. the immediate and limitless ability to disperse information has made it infinitely easier for these small producer to connect with their wine geek clientele. yes, these wines remain geek wines, for now, but i am convinced that the future holds more, not less of these wines. You just have to drink a few to be convinced. Not designed to win competitions or stand out in tastings, these are wines that are meant to drunk. Consumed with friends and food the way wines have been produced for centuries.
Perhaps there is a little nostalgia at work here as well, but nothing has ever succeeded based simply on the nostalgic impulse to purchase it. Success comes from the second purchase, and then the third, and for that to happen the wines must be good. If you are interested in discovering this new breed there are an ever increasing number of producer to choose from. I have been fortunate to taste a few and what follows is a short list of some of my favorites. Try a few. You might be surprised by what you find, but if you are not impressed by the wines on first sip don’t rush to judgement. Bring them to the table and pair them with a meal. That is where these wines shine. They are not so-called cocktail wines. They are in fact table wines, more akin after all to the wines so commonly found in Europe. Those wines that can seem a little underwhelming at times yet provide us with such joy that we invariably seek them out when we return from vacations and visits abroad. Well, we no longer have to jet to Europe to experience that feeling. Pretty soon you’ll be asking for these wines, and today you might be met with the same glazed eye look you receive when you search out wines from the Cinque Terre, for example. In time though these wines will no longer be the “New” California. They simply will be another face of Californian wine, and then everybody will be saying that they were there when it all began. Take advantage of our times, and you too will be able to say just that.
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Edmunds St. John
As I mentioned in my introduction, no discussion of this ‘new’ style of California would could be complete without mentioning the wines of Edmunds St. John. For decades these wines have pioneered both the style we have now come to embrace, as well as the use of grape varieties that were not exactly in favor. Long a proponent of the ever underappreciated California Syrah, as well as white rhone varieties, the wines of Steve Edmunds can be challenging in their youth, but blossom gorgeously with age. They have the added benefit, for consumers at least, of being very fairly priced. If you ever see a bottle of an ESJ wine with some age on it and are confident of its provenance jump at the chance to buy them. Few california wines from the 1980s and in particular the 1990s when the last ‘new’ style of wines emerged have aged as gracefully as these wines.
2012 Edmunds St. John Heart of Gold El Dorado CA 13.5% $22
52% Vermentino, 48% Grenache Blanc
From Fenaughty
Tight, citrus rind and pith aromas greet the nose which picks up a creamy note with an overlay of minerality , lemon curd and lime leaf. Nicely open on the palate which starts off in a very mineral vein picking up a bit of yellow melon flavor along with hints of ollen and heather. There’s a little creaminess on the midpalate which picks up peach pit and kiwifruit streaks before the fruit turns to grapefruit on the long, mineral flecked finish. 89pts
2012 Edmunds St. John Rocks and Gravel Dry Creek Valley 13.7% $30
A blend of 55% Grenache, 27% Syrah, 18% Mourvedre grown in the Unti vineyard.
Smoky and stemmy on the nose with aromas of african violet, crushed rocks, a little ink, ash, and wild herbs. Big and, almost sweet entry, this shows off lots of fine tannins and bright acids in the mouth supporting rich fresh fruit flavors. At first there’s a little red apple skin note followed by crushed raspberry, icy white pepper accents, a little cherry skin and blackberry on the backend which is very aromatic and long, with floral highlights. Incredibly flavorful but also quite structured. This is good already but promises to improve with additional ageing. 89pts
2011 Edmunds St. John Fenaughty Syrah El Dorado CA $32
Deep smoke tinged jammy black fruit that is not sweet fills the glass along with framing notes of wild thyme, truffle, mossy rocks, and some lovely smoked chili accents. Supple in the mouth with fine acids keeping this fresh even though this packs in a lot of youthful fruit and has a touch of an inky consistency on the palate. With a lovely base of ripe tannins, this gains powdery mouthgrab as the fruit turns bluer and tightens up on the finish. Additional air brings out hints of bacon and more sweet edges to the fruit, along with ivy and crushed tart red berry flavors. A bit spicy and nuanced on the finish, this has just begun to show what its made of but the balance and depth of fruit is excellent. 91pts
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Broc Cellars
I have been familiar with Chris Brockway’s wines since about the 2004 vintage, but I had heard that Chris had changed the style of his Broc cellars wines. I was familiar with well made, balanced and rich expressions of California fruit that Chris had been producing but his current crop of releases reflect a real turnaround and result from a complete embrace of a willingness to discover something new, and perhaps stumble along the way. Here in this modest cellar one finds all the trappings of a winemaker freed from expecations. Crbonic macerations, neutral
2012 Broc Cellars Martian Mourvedre 12% $25
Bio farmed
Big and fruity on the nose with a big core of wild black cherry fruit accented with hints of flowers, charred beef, leather, candy red licorice, and a hint of macerated herbs. Medium light bodied on the gorgeous wild cherry and wild raspberry fruit on the palate shows gentle complexity with hint of tar and herbs. This shows gorgeous purity to the fruit, gently bushy tannins and mouthwatering acids all leading to a clean mineral flecked finish with lingering raspberry fruit. 91 pts
2012 Broc Cellars Cassia Grenache Santa Barbara Co 12.2% $27
Smoky on the nose with red raspberry and strawberry fruit showing plenty of garrigue spice with a hint of licorice and poppy seeds spice. Elegant, bright, and quite supple on the palate this shows good clarity in the mouth in a slightly rounded style with flavors of strawberries and spice. Gentle and easy going through the modest finish where this reveals a little peppery and floral perfume along with tannins that show a touch of bite. 87pts
2012 Broc Cellars Vine Starr Zinfandel Sonoma 12.7% $30
Very smoky and soil driven on the briary nose which shows a little little beet root and root beer character. Bright on entry then turning moderately round in the mouth with some richness and fullness on the palate this a little spicy on the palate with lovely juicy red and black fruits that have a little Smith Brothers cough drop thing going on. Dusty tannins lead to a lovely finish rich with briary spiciness, rhubarb and cola accent notes. Attractively crisp and focused with a pop of red fruit and cinnamon on the finale. 89pts
2012 Broc Cellars Cuvée 13.1 Santa Lucia Highlands $22
Syrah with about 5% Counoise
Big natural wine nose is gently funky at first the turning black fruity with stemmy, briary, savory accents and a nice nuanced cracked pepper note. There’s gorgeous fruit here, rich and powerful without weight in the mouth. Attractive polished tannins support lovely peppery base notes and black raspberry and little blueberry emerging with air along with some perfumed floral notes. Long on the finish with an absolutely fabulous blend of fresh crushed black fruit with hints of juniper and earth adding nuance. This is beautifully balanced. 92pts
2012 Broc Cellars Gamay Umpqua Valley 12% $24
Own rooted
The problem child of the year, stuck ferment, bit of va
Licorice, herb stem, and earthy aromas wrap around a bit of funk on this high toned nose which shows significant VA. Off dry, this is rather fruity and simple with firm little tannins that contribute to a slightly dusty feel in the mouth. Short on the finish with some floral notes, this has some attractive attributes but doesn’t quite come together. 82pts
2013 Nero D'Avola Mendocino $30
tank sample out of foudre
Reduced on the nose. Classic black cherry pops on the palate which is bright, fairly rich and juicy with great acids, This is all about potential today and already show great juicy black cherry fruit so it will be interesting to see what sort of complexity this develops. From a vineyard directly west of Sonoma, east of the 101 with only a few inches of topsoil covered a deep bed of galet like stones. Fermented in concrete, aged for six months in neutral oak 86-89pts
2012 Broc Cellars Chardonnay Michael Mara Vineyard. Sonoma Coast 12% $37
Impressive ripeness on the nose, which shows a bit of mango and banana over dusty mineral and old wood notes that are a little nutty. Mineral and totally bright on entry with barely ripe pineapple flavors and lime tone reminding me of Chablis. The finish shows fine length and focus with rich river stone minerality. 89pts
2011 Broc Cellars Valdiguie Mockvin du Broc 16% $30
Complex aromas of raisin, spice, and VA greet the nose While moderately sweet in the mouth this still shows attractive freshness to the strawberry and slightly peachy fruit. There's a hint of dark chocolate to the palate and an oxidized quality that knits things together nicely leading to a very nutty, long, lovely bitter herbal finish that's layered over strawberry in liquor flavors ending on notes of coriander and cardamom. 88pts
2013 Broc Cellars White Zinfandel Sonoma Valley $20
Barrel sample
Fine herbal, brambly aromas grace the nose. The palate on the other hand is a bit steely, dry with firm acids supporting the lovely mineral cut of the bright raspberry tinged core of fruit. The fruit really emerges on the fairly long finish which shows off bright flavors of tart red cherry and watermelon with a hint of seedy spice. Carbonic fermentation. 86pts
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Forlorn Hope
“I wanted something dusty and herbal with angry tannins, like Slovenian Merlot. When the vegetal has gone but the fruit is still herbaceous I was ready to pull the trigger.”
Who talks like that? Matthew rorick of course. While Matthew’s story begins at the Elizabeth Spencer winery, the part we’re interested in today began in 2005 when he began work on a more esoteric style of winemaking. Forlorn Hope was tarted to satisfy some creative impulse and to work with the varieties that were really good for specific locations, Matthew began with four barrels of four wines in 2005. By 2010, much to his surprise, this project had grown to take over all his time and energy, and went from being a fun creative exercise on the side to his full-time focus.
The focus here is on the varied climate and geography of California that is capable of growing so many different varieties of grapes, grapes that suit the specific terroirs around the state that yield a beautiful and unique expression. That expression of grape and site is what Forlorn Hope wines are all about. It is fundamental to the wines here that the fruit is balanced at harvest, the wines truly are created in the vineyards and one of the driving tenets behind the wines is not make additions. that means all native fermentations, minimal filtering, of wines that do not go through ML, no additives, no acid adjustment, no water adjustments, and most reds include some level of stems. The results are wines that do indeed speak of grape and site, but also, so some degree of this non interventionist style of winemaking.
The results are so typical of the breed. Not alway hitting it out of the park but masking sure that each wine has a unique story to tell. If you don’t derive some joy from tasting the misses, as well as the hits, you should revisit your priorities. It’s OK to drink wine just for fun, but when you drink Forlorn Hope wines you often get quite an education as well. There’s a tinge of history in many of these wines and they can be thrilling to taste. matthew has recently purchased the Stevenot property in Calaveras County so be on the lookout for some exciting projects down the road. It may take some time before they materialize, according to matthew the vineyard was in pretty poor shape and will require rehabilitation, but the land sit atop deposits of limestone and dolomite and should produce some intriguing fruit for him to play with!
2010 Forlorn Hope Nacre Semillon Yountville 11% $26
Nacre =Mother of pearl, wine was made specifically for oysters,
Vines planted in the 50s. 30 acres of head trained, dry farmed, organically farmed Semillon in the heart of napa valley.
Savory, green almost pickle, jalapeño, and naples aromas on the nose. This is tight in the mouth with big acids supporting youthful grapefruit flavors on the palate. With just a hint of beeswax on the nose, along with lemon pith flavors adding detail to the zesty, long finish this is hinting at future complexity. There's fine cut here and this shows a good hint of richness in the mouth finishing with flavors of orange, and big orange acids, huge acids, hint of beeswax on the nose. 90pts
2012 Forlorn Hope Que Saudade Verdelho California 13.5% $24
From Vista Luna in Lodi and Dewitt in Amador
All barrel fermented
Waxy on the nose with big green tea aromas that are joined by faintly herbal, quince, and smoky almond tones. Overall this is a bit earthy and low but quite aromatic with hints of candied citrus peel. Light and then fruity on entry, this comes off as very clean, a bit pithy on the palate and creamy with a long finish. Matthew mentioned that it keeps gaining richness in the bottle, to get a fresher wine he is dialing back the brix at harvest and no longer stirs the lees, in fact pulls it off the lees at dryness. 87pts
2012 Forlorn Hope The Story Chenin Blanc Story Vineyard Amador 13.17% $30
Planted in 79 and 85, own rooted
Fermented in neutral wood, more than 14 months in barrel, off lees at ten months.
Tight on the nose and inexpressive with only faint mineral and incipient floral notes. Smooth and supple in the mouth, this is reticent, clear, and mineral. Clean and fresh today, there's a nice white orchard fruity core here, a small core, a thinkers wine. Mineral and just a hint waxy and a hint starchy in the mouth, this turns a touch spicy on the finish, which shows good acids and length. A bit underwhelming. 85pts
2013 Forlorn Hope Kumo to Ame Rose Amador 11.33% $25
A blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Cao, Tinta Amarella from the Dewitt vineyard
Funky reduced nose
Bright acids on entry, this is reduced on the palate as well. There appears to be a nice core of fruit hidden, and as this opens on the palate, lots of red berry fruit begins to emerge. This gains length on the finish which is all about steely acids and minerality. Needs air. NR
2012 Forlorn Hope Mil Amores Amador 12.8% $25
Mil adores is desteemed, because the grapes are crazy amount of tannin in the skins,
From the Dewitt vineyard in Amador, a blend of 50% Touriga Nacional, 5% Trincadeira, 30% Tinta Roriz, 15% Tinta Cao
Intensely perfumed on the nose with pungent aromas of blue flowers, tobacco like crazy, a hint of passion fruit, spicy plummy fruit, honeysuckle, and orange peel all bursting from the glass. In the mouth this is bright, linear, and polished, with lovely transparency on the palate. There's a little blueberry edge to the strawberry fruit on the palate which is supported by nicely knit, soft tannins and juicy acids with late arriving leathery notes and slightly dark berry fruit adding additional complexity. I'd love to see where this goes with two or three years in the bottle the aromatics are stunning already. 91pts
2012 Forlorn Hope San Hercumer Barbera Shake Ridge Vineyard Amador 13.54% $30
Deposed granite, quartz, blue schist, soapstone,
Very pretty on the nose with classic red plum, soil, and spice aromas. Bright acids supporting red fruit greet the palate which is both pretty plump as well as wiry and vinous. The backend shows off red currant and white cherry fruit, with a little stemmy tannin. The finish is filled with lovely bright juicy fruit, shows good length and complexity, picking up touches of old wood, dried herb stems, and a hint of coffee bean or cocoa nibs, 88pts
2012 Forlorn Hope l'Asino Santo Barbera Shake Ridge Vineyard Amador 13.98 $30
Same exact wine as 2012 San Hercumer Barbera Shake Ridge Vineyard Amador but no sulphur added
Inky, earthy, darkly fruited and spicy on the nose. Another take on classic Barbera with some VA adding lift and underlying shale like aromas shale. This has a sweet/savory thing going on with handfuls of tobacco laced fruit on the palate and powerful acids driving tart cherry fruit flavors that turns a bit plummy on the backend. This continue to exhibit a bit ofa rustic character on the backend and through the finish which is a touch austere and shows some balsamic spice and dry tannins. I drank the rest of this bottle with dinner several hours after first tasting it and while it lightens and softens up a bit with air the VA also becomes more pronounced. A fascinating experiment. 86pts
2012 Forlorn Hope Gewürztraminer The Faufreluches Russian River Valley 13.02 $25
Two weeks skin contact
Very pretty on the nose which is a little waxy and spicy with green tea, honey, and mint tinged floral aromas over lemon drop, hard candy fruit. Deeply aromatic in the mouth as well this displays lovely honeycomb, heather and pineapple flavors. Dry on the palate and with plenty of tannin providing real mouth grab this is a wild Gewurtz which finished with solid length and fine, mouth cleansing mineral notes. This needs mackerel crudo. 90pts
2012 Forlorn Hope Ghanima Merlot Lost Vineyard Napa 13.97% $30
Tobacco and herbal aromas grace the nose which remains a touch vegetal with flashes of black currant fruit . Red fruited on entry and decidedly dusty, stemming tannic, and earthy this is just medium bodied revealing some dark fruit and a little cocoa on the back end. Perhaps a bit short on the palate, and a bit simple, this does show nuanced and plummy fruit on the tight little finish. This needs time. 85pts
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Idlewild Wines
Sam Bilbro has just gotten started with his Idlewild project but that doesn’t mean he is a new-comer to the wine business. Sam’s family has been behind the wonderfully affordable and reliable Marietta's label. While it would seem a no-brainer to join the family busines, that is not always possible and thus Sam has set out on his own in order to produce wines that represent a different face of California’s complex wine industry.
Inspired by, and to a certain extent focusing on the wines associated with northern Italy, and in particular Piedmont, Sam has certainly chosen a less travelled path. Armed with these less familiar varieties Sam, and his winemaking partner, wife jessica, are trying to capture a certain texture with their wines. It’s another page in this story of the “new” california. One winemaker is looking for freshness, another to be able to make wines without additions, and here we find a pair driven by the desire for wines that feel a certain way. that feeling, crisp and fresh with both a certain sense of delicacy and power is right up my alley. The texture of wine is often overlooked but fundamental to the drinkability of every wine. Dry, elegant, and transparent, these are wines that beg you to take another sip. really fabulous wines at the table but equally adept at satisfying the casual sipper. If this is the future of California wine I am all in.
Fox hill outside of Uriah, north facing slope, never any baked effect from the sun,
Deer inspired leaf thinning, random and light,
2013 Idlewild Arneis Fox Hill Vineyard Mendocino 13.6% $28
Pollen and a hint of dried grass accent the aromas of apricot on the nose. Opening with bright acidity, this displays beautiful fruit on the palate. Theres a little honeycomb, just a little roundness, flavors of delicate pears, apricot skin, and a hint of mint underpinned by superb acid. This starts out with sweet fruit, and then ends with a long mineral finish, laced with pollen and a little bit of lime skin all woven together with a fine vein of stonefruit. About as good as it gets. 90pts
2013 Idlewild Grenache Gris Gibson Ranch McDowell Valley 12.9% $28
Fermented on skins and stems, carbonic start for a lifted character, then foot tread 10 days before pressing, finish in SS, four months in neutral wood,
Lots of red fruit emerges on the nose which shows a floral, rather high toned character and sweet orchard and citrus fruit aromas. There gorgeous texture to this on the palate, rich, almost chewy on the palate with a lightly dusty quality that adds textural detail. The finish also shows fine fruit and stem tannin in a rather mineral style. This is all about transparency, delicacy, and persistence. A fabulous rose/light red style of wine that reminds me of old vine Schiava. 90pts
2012 Idlewild Carignane Testa Vineyard Mendocino 13.2% $32
Very floral and gamy on the nose with an intriguing hint of hazelnuts adding detail along with deep ink, briar and dried herb aromas. There's great freshness to the palate here showing nuanced sweetness up front along with flavors of blueberries, and complex mineral, earth, and cocoa notes. The finish start out quite vibrant and high toned, but drops off a bit quickly. The chocolate note here does linger on the palate as do small pointy tannins that keep the small berried fruits a little earthy on the palate. There's lovely detail here. 88pts
The truth is that the style of wines is indeed changing, though not exactly returning to its previous state. Too many things have changed over the decades. Vine trellising, clonal selection, and rootstock selection, not to mention the influence of climate change all mean that we simply do not have the resources to return to the previous era. Instead we are witnessing the emergence of a new California Paradigm. One that achieves balance primarily through harvesting at a lower sugar level, yielding wines with lower alcohol, higher acids, and a different flavor profile that one typically associates with wines from California. there are different motivations behind the production of these wines but the best synopsis of that motivation comes in the form of a quote from Matthew Rorick, producer of the Forlorn Hope wines.
“I’m not trying to make low alcohol wines, I’m just trying to make wines without adds (additions).”
This mentality, one that does return to an earlier time when wine was made from grapes and didn’t include additions of color, tannins, acids, and the like, is driving a renaissance in California and the results are unlike anything that we have recently experienced from their sunbaked vineyards. It takes guts to make these wines. Guts, and the confidence to do things differently. Markus Bockisch in Lodi, whose wines I shall be reporting on shortly, admits as much when he discusses his Albarino. The idea of picking before the flavors seemed to have developed in the grapes was a difficult one to make, but time has proven that these flavors do emerge in the finished wines. Perhaps frustratingly slowly, but wine is not simply grape juice. It is something closer to magic than to science and the truth is that we still know painfully little about what a finished wines may taste like based solely on the flavors of the grapes themselves.
While all of these developments are exciting, they are not in fact new, though their blossoming in the industry is a new occurrence. One simply has to look at the wines Steve Edmunds has been making at Edmunds St. John for the evidence. Steve’s wines from a decades long path to the past that leads directly to these wines. the mentality to produce that veer from the preconceived notions of what great wines is have always been simmering just beneath the surface in California, and are just now bubbling up to reach a broader audience. Whether that means grape varieties that we may not be familiar with, skin contact whites, or the lower alcohol wines that are symbolic of this trend, they are all fascinating developments.
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While these wines may not be to everyone’s liking, and in fact are often panned by the critics for lacking something that we self-appointed experts deem to be inherently important to “great” wines, they simply expand the pantheon of the possible. I love the fact that there is a greater variety of wines being produced than ever before and for my palate things are moving in the right direction. Mistakes get made of course. In an effort to move the needle grapes have been picked too early, wines have been made that are lean, under-ripe, and uninteresting, but who cares. To achieve great things one has to be willing to take great risks.
That risk has been the limiting factor with wines in many ways. A big winery can’t take a risk with their large scale production. producers paying thousands of dollars a ton for fruit can’t afford to take a risk with their investment. In many ways that is what is probably driving these wines. Producers seek out the obscure, because it’s less expensive, and more interesting in some case. less expensive means a greater propensity to take a risk. that is where we are at today. Cabernet is expensive, Carignane much less so. I’m not sure why we see more Carignane from these risk takers but if I had to place a bet I’d say it all boils down to pricing.
The revolution in the wine industry, with custom crush facilities and mobile bottling lines leveling the playing field has contributed to this Old is new movement as well. But, at it’s heart I think what we are seeing is a level of dissatisfaction with the wines being producing, as well as the confidence to say just that. The internet has contributed to the viability of these projects as well. the immediate and limitless ability to disperse information has made it infinitely easier for these small producer to connect with their wine geek clientele. yes, these wines remain geek wines, for now, but i am convinced that the future holds more, not less of these wines. You just have to drink a few to be convinced. Not designed to win competitions or stand out in tastings, these are wines that are meant to drunk. Consumed with friends and food the way wines have been produced for centuries.
Perhaps there is a little nostalgia at work here as well, but nothing has ever succeeded based simply on the nostalgic impulse to purchase it. Success comes from the second purchase, and then the third, and for that to happen the wines must be good. If you are interested in discovering this new breed there are an ever increasing number of producer to choose from. I have been fortunate to taste a few and what follows is a short list of some of my favorites. Try a few. You might be surprised by what you find, but if you are not impressed by the wines on first sip don’t rush to judgement. Bring them to the table and pair them with a meal. That is where these wines shine. They are not so-called cocktail wines. They are in fact table wines, more akin after all to the wines so commonly found in Europe. Those wines that can seem a little underwhelming at times yet provide us with such joy that we invariably seek them out when we return from vacations and visits abroad. Well, we no longer have to jet to Europe to experience that feeling. Pretty soon you’ll be asking for these wines, and today you might be met with the same glazed eye look you receive when you search out wines from the Cinque Terre, for example. In time though these wines will no longer be the “New” California. They simply will be another face of Californian wine, and then everybody will be saying that they were there when it all began. Take advantage of our times, and you too will be able to say just that.
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Edmunds St. John
As I mentioned in my introduction, no discussion of this ‘new’ style of California would could be complete without mentioning the wines of Edmunds St. John. For decades these wines have pioneered both the style we have now come to embrace, as well as the use of grape varieties that were not exactly in favor. Long a proponent of the ever underappreciated California Syrah, as well as white rhone varieties, the wines of Steve Edmunds can be challenging in their youth, but blossom gorgeously with age. They have the added benefit, for consumers at least, of being very fairly priced. If you ever see a bottle of an ESJ wine with some age on it and are confident of its provenance jump at the chance to buy them. Few california wines from the 1980s and in particular the 1990s when the last ‘new’ style of wines emerged have aged as gracefully as these wines.
2012 Edmunds St. John Heart of Gold El Dorado CA 13.5% $22
52% Vermentino, 48% Grenache Blanc
From Fenaughty
Tight, citrus rind and pith aromas greet the nose which picks up a creamy note with an overlay of minerality , lemon curd and lime leaf. Nicely open on the palate which starts off in a very mineral vein picking up a bit of yellow melon flavor along with hints of ollen and heather. There’s a little creaminess on the midpalate which picks up peach pit and kiwifruit streaks before the fruit turns to grapefruit on the long, mineral flecked finish. 89pts
2012 Edmunds St. John Rocks and Gravel Dry Creek Valley 13.7% $30
A blend of 55% Grenache, 27% Syrah, 18% Mourvedre grown in the Unti vineyard.
Smoky and stemmy on the nose with aromas of african violet, crushed rocks, a little ink, ash, and wild herbs. Big and, almost sweet entry, this shows off lots of fine tannins and bright acids in the mouth supporting rich fresh fruit flavors. At first there’s a little red apple skin note followed by crushed raspberry, icy white pepper accents, a little cherry skin and blackberry on the backend which is very aromatic and long, with floral highlights. Incredibly flavorful but also quite structured. This is good already but promises to improve with additional ageing. 89pts
2011 Edmunds St. John Fenaughty Syrah El Dorado CA $32
Deep smoke tinged jammy black fruit that is not sweet fills the glass along with framing notes of wild thyme, truffle, mossy rocks, and some lovely smoked chili accents. Supple in the mouth with fine acids keeping this fresh even though this packs in a lot of youthful fruit and has a touch of an inky consistency on the palate. With a lovely base of ripe tannins, this gains powdery mouthgrab as the fruit turns bluer and tightens up on the finish. Additional air brings out hints of bacon and more sweet edges to the fruit, along with ivy and crushed tart red berry flavors. A bit spicy and nuanced on the finish, this has just begun to show what its made of but the balance and depth of fruit is excellent. 91pts
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Broc Cellars
I have been familiar with Chris Brockway’s wines since about the 2004 vintage, but I had heard that Chris had changed the style of his Broc cellars wines. I was familiar with well made, balanced and rich expressions of California fruit that Chris had been producing but his current crop of releases reflect a real turnaround and result from a complete embrace of a willingness to discover something new, and perhaps stumble along the way. Here in this modest cellar one finds all the trappings of a winemaker freed from expecations. Crbonic macerations, neutral
2012 Broc Cellars Martian Mourvedre 12% $25
Bio farmed
Big and fruity on the nose with a big core of wild black cherry fruit accented with hints of flowers, charred beef, leather, candy red licorice, and a hint of macerated herbs. Medium light bodied on the gorgeous wild cherry and wild raspberry fruit on the palate shows gentle complexity with hint of tar and herbs. This shows gorgeous purity to the fruit, gently bushy tannins and mouthwatering acids all leading to a clean mineral flecked finish with lingering raspberry fruit. 91 pts
2012 Broc Cellars Cassia Grenache Santa Barbara Co 12.2% $27
Smoky on the nose with red raspberry and strawberry fruit showing plenty of garrigue spice with a hint of licorice and poppy seeds spice. Elegant, bright, and quite supple on the palate this shows good clarity in the mouth in a slightly rounded style with flavors of strawberries and spice. Gentle and easy going through the modest finish where this reveals a little peppery and floral perfume along with tannins that show a touch of bite. 87pts
2012 Broc Cellars Vine Starr Zinfandel Sonoma 12.7% $30
Very smoky and soil driven on the briary nose which shows a little little beet root and root beer character. Bright on entry then turning moderately round in the mouth with some richness and fullness on the palate this a little spicy on the palate with lovely juicy red and black fruits that have a little Smith Brothers cough drop thing going on. Dusty tannins lead to a lovely finish rich with briary spiciness, rhubarb and cola accent notes. Attractively crisp and focused with a pop of red fruit and cinnamon on the finale. 89pts
2012 Broc Cellars Cuvée 13.1 Santa Lucia Highlands $22
Syrah with about 5% Counoise
Big natural wine nose is gently funky at first the turning black fruity with stemmy, briary, savory accents and a nice nuanced cracked pepper note. There’s gorgeous fruit here, rich and powerful without weight in the mouth. Attractive polished tannins support lovely peppery base notes and black raspberry and little blueberry emerging with air along with some perfumed floral notes. Long on the finish with an absolutely fabulous blend of fresh crushed black fruit with hints of juniper and earth adding nuance. This is beautifully balanced. 92pts
2012 Broc Cellars Gamay Umpqua Valley 12% $24
Own rooted
The problem child of the year, stuck ferment, bit of va
Licorice, herb stem, and earthy aromas wrap around a bit of funk on this high toned nose which shows significant VA. Off dry, this is rather fruity and simple with firm little tannins that contribute to a slightly dusty feel in the mouth. Short on the finish with some floral notes, this has some attractive attributes but doesn’t quite come together. 82pts
2013 Nero D'Avola Mendocino $30
tank sample out of foudre
Reduced on the nose. Classic black cherry pops on the palate which is bright, fairly rich and juicy with great acids, This is all about potential today and already show great juicy black cherry fruit so it will be interesting to see what sort of complexity this develops. From a vineyard directly west of Sonoma, east of the 101 with only a few inches of topsoil covered a deep bed of galet like stones. Fermented in concrete, aged for six months in neutral oak 86-89pts
2012 Broc Cellars Chardonnay Michael Mara Vineyard. Sonoma Coast 12% $37
Impressive ripeness on the nose, which shows a bit of mango and banana over dusty mineral and old wood notes that are a little nutty. Mineral and totally bright on entry with barely ripe pineapple flavors and lime tone reminding me of Chablis. The finish shows fine length and focus with rich river stone minerality. 89pts
2011 Broc Cellars Valdiguie Mockvin du Broc 16% $30
Complex aromas of raisin, spice, and VA greet the nose While moderately sweet in the mouth this still shows attractive freshness to the strawberry and slightly peachy fruit. There's a hint of dark chocolate to the palate and an oxidized quality that knits things together nicely leading to a very nutty, long, lovely bitter herbal finish that's layered over strawberry in liquor flavors ending on notes of coriander and cardamom. 88pts
2013 Broc Cellars White Zinfandel Sonoma Valley $20
Barrel sample
Fine herbal, brambly aromas grace the nose. The palate on the other hand is a bit steely, dry with firm acids supporting the lovely mineral cut of the bright raspberry tinged core of fruit. The fruit really emerges on the fairly long finish which shows off bright flavors of tart red cherry and watermelon with a hint of seedy spice. Carbonic fermentation. 86pts
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Forlorn Hope
“I wanted something dusty and herbal with angry tannins, like Slovenian Merlot. When the vegetal has gone but the fruit is still herbaceous I was ready to pull the trigger.”
Who talks like that? Matthew rorick of course. While Matthew’s story begins at the Elizabeth Spencer winery, the part we’re interested in today began in 2005 when he began work on a more esoteric style of winemaking. Forlorn Hope was tarted to satisfy some creative impulse and to work with the varieties that were really good for specific locations, Matthew began with four barrels of four wines in 2005. By 2010, much to his surprise, this project had grown to take over all his time and energy, and went from being a fun creative exercise on the side to his full-time focus.
The focus here is on the varied climate and geography of California that is capable of growing so many different varieties of grapes, grapes that suit the specific terroirs around the state that yield a beautiful and unique expression. That expression of grape and site is what Forlorn Hope wines are all about. It is fundamental to the wines here that the fruit is balanced at harvest, the wines truly are created in the vineyards and one of the driving tenets behind the wines is not make additions. that means all native fermentations, minimal filtering, of wines that do not go through ML, no additives, no acid adjustment, no water adjustments, and most reds include some level of stems. The results are wines that do indeed speak of grape and site, but also, so some degree of this non interventionist style of winemaking.
The results are so typical of the breed. Not alway hitting it out of the park but masking sure that each wine has a unique story to tell. If you don’t derive some joy from tasting the misses, as well as the hits, you should revisit your priorities. It’s OK to drink wine just for fun, but when you drink Forlorn Hope wines you often get quite an education as well. There’s a tinge of history in many of these wines and they can be thrilling to taste. matthew has recently purchased the Stevenot property in Calaveras County so be on the lookout for some exciting projects down the road. It may take some time before they materialize, according to matthew the vineyard was in pretty poor shape and will require rehabilitation, but the land sit atop deposits of limestone and dolomite and should produce some intriguing fruit for him to play with!
2010 Forlorn Hope Nacre Semillon Yountville 11% $26
Nacre =Mother of pearl, wine was made specifically for oysters,
Vines planted in the 50s. 30 acres of head trained, dry farmed, organically farmed Semillon in the heart of napa valley.
Savory, green almost pickle, jalapeño, and naples aromas on the nose. This is tight in the mouth with big acids supporting youthful grapefruit flavors on the palate. With just a hint of beeswax on the nose, along with lemon pith flavors adding detail to the zesty, long finish this is hinting at future complexity. There's fine cut here and this shows a good hint of richness in the mouth finishing with flavors of orange, and big orange acids, huge acids, hint of beeswax on the nose. 90pts
2012 Forlorn Hope Que Saudade Verdelho California 13.5% $24
From Vista Luna in Lodi and Dewitt in Amador
All barrel fermented
Waxy on the nose with big green tea aromas that are joined by faintly herbal, quince, and smoky almond tones. Overall this is a bit earthy and low but quite aromatic with hints of candied citrus peel. Light and then fruity on entry, this comes off as very clean, a bit pithy on the palate and creamy with a long finish. Matthew mentioned that it keeps gaining richness in the bottle, to get a fresher wine he is dialing back the brix at harvest and no longer stirs the lees, in fact pulls it off the lees at dryness. 87pts
2012 Forlorn Hope The Story Chenin Blanc Story Vineyard Amador 13.17% $30
Planted in 79 and 85, own rooted
Fermented in neutral wood, more than 14 months in barrel, off lees at ten months.
Tight on the nose and inexpressive with only faint mineral and incipient floral notes. Smooth and supple in the mouth, this is reticent, clear, and mineral. Clean and fresh today, there's a nice white orchard fruity core here, a small core, a thinkers wine. Mineral and just a hint waxy and a hint starchy in the mouth, this turns a touch spicy on the finish, which shows good acids and length. A bit underwhelming. 85pts
2013 Forlorn Hope Kumo to Ame Rose Amador 11.33% $25
A blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Cao, Tinta Amarella from the Dewitt vineyard
Funky reduced nose
Bright acids on entry, this is reduced on the palate as well. There appears to be a nice core of fruit hidden, and as this opens on the palate, lots of red berry fruit begins to emerge. This gains length on the finish which is all about steely acids and minerality. Needs air. NR
2012 Forlorn Hope Mil Amores Amador 12.8% $25
Mil adores is desteemed, because the grapes are crazy amount of tannin in the skins,
From the Dewitt vineyard in Amador, a blend of 50% Touriga Nacional, 5% Trincadeira, 30% Tinta Roriz, 15% Tinta Cao
Intensely perfumed on the nose with pungent aromas of blue flowers, tobacco like crazy, a hint of passion fruit, spicy plummy fruit, honeysuckle, and orange peel all bursting from the glass. In the mouth this is bright, linear, and polished, with lovely transparency on the palate. There's a little blueberry edge to the strawberry fruit on the palate which is supported by nicely knit, soft tannins and juicy acids with late arriving leathery notes and slightly dark berry fruit adding additional complexity. I'd love to see where this goes with two or three years in the bottle the aromatics are stunning already. 91pts
2012 Forlorn Hope San Hercumer Barbera Shake Ridge Vineyard Amador 13.54% $30
Deposed granite, quartz, blue schist, soapstone,
Very pretty on the nose with classic red plum, soil, and spice aromas. Bright acids supporting red fruit greet the palate which is both pretty plump as well as wiry and vinous. The backend shows off red currant and white cherry fruit, with a little stemmy tannin. The finish is filled with lovely bright juicy fruit, shows good length and complexity, picking up touches of old wood, dried herb stems, and a hint of coffee bean or cocoa nibs, 88pts
2012 Forlorn Hope l'Asino Santo Barbera Shake Ridge Vineyard Amador 13.98 $30
Same exact wine as 2012 San Hercumer Barbera Shake Ridge Vineyard Amador but no sulphur added
Inky, earthy, darkly fruited and spicy on the nose. Another take on classic Barbera with some VA adding lift and underlying shale like aromas shale. This has a sweet/savory thing going on with handfuls of tobacco laced fruit on the palate and powerful acids driving tart cherry fruit flavors that turns a bit plummy on the backend. This continue to exhibit a bit ofa rustic character on the backend and through the finish which is a touch austere and shows some balsamic spice and dry tannins. I drank the rest of this bottle with dinner several hours after first tasting it and while it lightens and softens up a bit with air the VA also becomes more pronounced. A fascinating experiment. 86pts
2012 Forlorn Hope Gewürztraminer The Faufreluches Russian River Valley 13.02 $25
Two weeks skin contact
Very pretty on the nose which is a little waxy and spicy with green tea, honey, and mint tinged floral aromas over lemon drop, hard candy fruit. Deeply aromatic in the mouth as well this displays lovely honeycomb, heather and pineapple flavors. Dry on the palate and with plenty of tannin providing real mouth grab this is a wild Gewurtz which finished with solid length and fine, mouth cleansing mineral notes. This needs mackerel crudo. 90pts
2012 Forlorn Hope Ghanima Merlot Lost Vineyard Napa 13.97% $30
Tobacco and herbal aromas grace the nose which remains a touch vegetal with flashes of black currant fruit . Red fruited on entry and decidedly dusty, stemming tannic, and earthy this is just medium bodied revealing some dark fruit and a little cocoa on the back end. Perhaps a bit short on the palate, and a bit simple, this does show nuanced and plummy fruit on the tight little finish. This needs time. 85pts
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Idlewild Wines
Sam Bilbro has just gotten started with his Idlewild project but that doesn’t mean he is a new-comer to the wine business. Sam’s family has been behind the wonderfully affordable and reliable Marietta's label. While it would seem a no-brainer to join the family busines, that is not always possible and thus Sam has set out on his own in order to produce wines that represent a different face of California’s complex wine industry.
Inspired by, and to a certain extent focusing on the wines associated with northern Italy, and in particular Piedmont, Sam has certainly chosen a less travelled path. Armed with these less familiar varieties Sam, and his winemaking partner, wife jessica, are trying to capture a certain texture with their wines. It’s another page in this story of the “new” california. One winemaker is looking for freshness, another to be able to make wines without additions, and here we find a pair driven by the desire for wines that feel a certain way. that feeling, crisp and fresh with both a certain sense of delicacy and power is right up my alley. The texture of wine is often overlooked but fundamental to the drinkability of every wine. Dry, elegant, and transparent, these are wines that beg you to take another sip. really fabulous wines at the table but equally adept at satisfying the casual sipper. If this is the future of California wine I am all in.
Fox hill outside of Uriah, north facing slope, never any baked effect from the sun,
Deer inspired leaf thinning, random and light,
2013 Idlewild Arneis Fox Hill Vineyard Mendocino 13.6% $28
Pollen and a hint of dried grass accent the aromas of apricot on the nose. Opening with bright acidity, this displays beautiful fruit on the palate. Theres a little honeycomb, just a little roundness, flavors of delicate pears, apricot skin, and a hint of mint underpinned by superb acid. This starts out with sweet fruit, and then ends with a long mineral finish, laced with pollen and a little bit of lime skin all woven together with a fine vein of stonefruit. About as good as it gets. 90pts
2013 Idlewild Grenache Gris Gibson Ranch McDowell Valley 12.9% $28
Fermented on skins and stems, carbonic start for a lifted character, then foot tread 10 days before pressing, finish in SS, four months in neutral wood,
Lots of red fruit emerges on the nose which shows a floral, rather high toned character and sweet orchard and citrus fruit aromas. There gorgeous texture to this on the palate, rich, almost chewy on the palate with a lightly dusty quality that adds textural detail. The finish also shows fine fruit and stem tannin in a rather mineral style. This is all about transparency, delicacy, and persistence. A fabulous rose/light red style of wine that reminds me of old vine Schiava. 90pts
2012 Idlewild Carignane Testa Vineyard Mendocino 13.2% $32
Very floral and gamy on the nose with an intriguing hint of hazelnuts adding detail along with deep ink, briar and dried herb aromas. There's great freshness to the palate here showing nuanced sweetness up front along with flavors of blueberries, and complex mineral, earth, and cocoa notes. The finish start out quite vibrant and high toned, but drops off a bit quickly. The chocolate note here does linger on the palate as do small pointy tannins that keep the small berried fruits a little earthy on the palate. There's lovely detail here. 88pts