Top Portuguese Reds in 2014
In the coming weeks I’ll be writing up my experiences at ProWein 2014, the great Wine and Spirits show held in Dusseldorf Germany each year. This trade show, and it is just that, exclusive to the trade and that rule is strictly enforced, is one of the great experiences wine professional can indulge in each year. This year’s edition of the fair was spread out over 8 halls, though that will change in 2015 as ProWein continues to grow. Each hall has a theme, of sorts. Some are dedicated to specific countries, like Italy and Austria for example, while others have a blend of new or old world regions that may not have the volume to fill their own halls.
Such was the case with the wines of Portugal, what may seem as a bit of an odd way to kick off reporting on a wine show in Germany, but in truth it is perfectly illustrative of ProWein. ou see ProWein is an international fair, and being exclusive to the trade means that the crowds are well behaved, in general, and kept to a moderately busy level. That allows participants time and space with producers that other event often lack. I had a long list of wineries, regions, and countries that i wanted to focus on at proWein. Sadly I was not able to hit them all, though in my final two hours or so at the event I did manage to swing by Portugal’s space at the event and was fortunate to be able to taste through the portfolios of several producers.
As you may know I am a big fan of Portuguese wines. I find them to be generally old world in style, in part due to the winemaking, but also due to the indigenous varieties used throughout Portugal. Varieties that seem to be fairly resistant to spoofilation. The results tend to be wine that are fairly fruity, but not candied, even if they do show some roasted notes with a certain frequency, resulting of course from Portugal’s rather torrid summers. In addition to fruit though, the wines display subtlety and complexity. Floral and spice notes that are inherent in some of the varieties used, as well as soil tones brought forth from the vineyards themselves. They are fascinating wines and generally pretty fun to taste, and in many cases great values. Sometimes stunningly so.
Today’s line-up is made of of known players, so to a certain extent they offer less values than some smaller or undiscovered producers from Portugal, but at the same time this is to large extent the cream of the crop. If you’re looking for top quality Portuguese wines across the board this is where you should begin. Of course some producers are not listed here, but many of them were included on my trip to Portugal last year<<http://www.snooth.com/articles/the-red-wines-of-portugal/>>, so in the interest of variety, and keeping in mind that I had just over two hours to spend on Portuguese wines, I opted to visit the following wineries.
The wines were, as expected, interesting and delicious. While ProWein is a fabulous place to taste a large variety of wine, it is not the best place to taste wines critically, if for no other reason that you will end up tasting dozens of wines a day for three days. palate fatigue may set in. You definitely need to recalibrate occasionally since so many wines on offer are top level wines; it’s easy to become a bit jaded unless you remain vigilant. I hope the notes that follow illustrate a certain vigilance on my part. They are certainly not definitive but do give one a good idea of what is coming out of Portugal these days. Once known almost exclusively for dessert wines and inexpensive table wines, Portugal has taken its rightful place at the table of fine wine producers with their unique portfolio of distinctive, terroir driven, and uniquely flavored wines that every winelover should try. You might not find all the wines to your liking, but as is the case nearly everywhere that wine is produced today, there is such a broad set of styles being produced, that it is only a matter of time before you do. And when you do, you will be duly impressed!
So now on to the wines. Decidedly Douro skewed, this region so famous for the production of port has both the vineyards and the additional resources available to have made the transition to producing premium tables wines swift and seamless. It’s not the only region in Portugal worthy of attention, but because the port houses wield influence and have distribution channels already in place, it’s a great place to start. the wines are generally available in diverse markets, that not all bottlings reach every market. As I mentioned already these may nt the value leaders in portugal but if you want to know what portuguese table wine has become in the 21st century this is where you should begin!
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Niepoort
2012 Niepoort Twisted Tinto $15
Dusty, meaty and spicy on the nose with black fruit layered over base notes of hot iron and gravel. On entry there’s a hit of sweet oak spice sweet oak spices followed by fruit that is a bit dry and raw, though bright and fresh on the backend which turns rather smooth and juicy with a little licorice tone and candied blackberry flavors that linger on the modest finish. Could use a year in bottle to better integrate but shows good typicity already. 87pts
2011 Niepoort Vertente $30
Beautiful blue floral notes greet the nose layered over blueberry fruit that is framed by a sour meatiness. In the mouth this is powerful, smooth and a touch plump with lots of ripe tannins. There are hints of flowers and herbs on the palate, all wrapped up in big blueberry and black berry fruit that finishes with austere minerality and some drying tannins. Needs a year or three to come into it’s own but shows power and purity already. 88pts
2011 Niepoort Redoma $40
40% of stems included, tread in lagare
A bit herbal and briary with fabulous aromas of wild flowers adding detail to the dark berry and slightly plummy fruit. Very fresh and clear on the palate and already showing beautiful fruit with well managed tannins adding richness and depth yet this remains transparent and fairly light on its feet.even in the mouth one finds great perfumes and the tannins here, while a touch chewy, are so pliant and fresh that this is already fun to drink. The finish is long and just a bit tight today, but the fruit and perfumes do linger on the palate. Absolutely lovely. 91pts
2011 Niepoort Batuta $75
Big, ripe, and plummy on the nose with nuanced candied black fruit, licorice, dried plum and medicinal aromas paired with cinnamon bark and resins notes, all making for a complex perfume. A touch balsamic on entry, this is bright and vibrant in the mouth with tons of edgy tannins supporting a bright core of plums, sour black cherry and earthy fruit. The powerful acids and tannins need to age a bit to fully integrate but this shows beautiful persistence to the fruit and complexity on the palate. 92pts
2011 Niepoort Charme $80
Lagare, 100% stems
Very smoky and stemmy on the elegant, complex and deep nose. that elegance translate to the palate where this is fresh and surprisingly Pinot like in weight and feel, with juicy acids and tannins that are firmer than Pinot but in scale with some tannic Burgundy. Elegant, nuanced and long on the palate with little wild cherry fruit and lots of stemmy and stem spice accents leading to the backend where the tannins turn a bit dominant leading to a moderately long finish that shows tea and sweet tobacco. Not for everyone but a distinctive and fascinating wine. 89pts
2009 Niepoort Robustus $100
50% stems, four years in big wood, two and three thousand liters,
Big, spicy and complex on the nose with chocolate, old wood, dried fruit, fruit cake and balsamic aromas. In the mouth this is smooth, rich and polished with lots of small, soft tannins and flavors of wild cherries in alcohol framed with nice spice notes. Finishing a bit short and acid driven, this remains refined and
powerful, still fairly tannic,and marked by some smoky soil notes from start to finish. A bit of a shift in style with a blend of youthful structure and evolving aromatics, this would probably benefit from a bit of bottle age or a moderately long decant. 89pts
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Quinta do Vale Meao
2014 Quinta do Vale Meao Meandro White $NA
A bit bright on the palate with bright, clear flavors of lemon curd and gummi bears. Almost juicy fruit flavored finishing dry and with a refreshing hint of astringency. Nice texture and weight if a bit on the fruity side of things. 87pts
2012 Quinta do Vale Meao Meandro $25
cask sample
Sweet and spicy on the nose with a bit of gingerbread and a green herbal floral cast adding detail and complexity. Bright, transparent, and very juicy on the palate with a bit of a minty edge to the red and black fruits, almost a touch of currant going on here. Tannins are soft and this is a bit short today. 86pts
2011 Quinta do Vale Meao Meandro $25
Fine depth on the nose and nuance with lots of spicy black peppery accents to the plum, earth and worcestershire sauce aromas. Bright, lively and full of spiced black fruit on entry, this shows great energy in the mouth, a bit inky and opaque with richness today, but so zesty with firm, well measured if dry tannins, supporting clear and fresh blackberry fruit with a hint of boysenberry that pops on the backend and persists through the moderately long finish. 88pts
2011 Quinta do Vale Meao Monte Meal $NA
Touriga Nacional from alluvial gravel
Big wild berry fruit on the nose is layered over a base of dusty, spicy, inky aromas that are framed with a fine dried meat note. Opening with tons of wild blackberry cherry fruit, and herbal spicy, this lacks a touch of brightness in the mouth and is fairly tannic and astringent. The midpalate is a bit tough and angular, with mineral driven raspberry flavors that would be rather elegant if not for the rustic tannins. Finishing with a lingering note of astringency, this shows a minty edge to the blackberry fruit and incipient notes of tobacco and black tea. Promising, but not there yet. 87pts
2011 Quinta do Vale Meao Monte Meal $NA
Touriga Nacional from granite soils
Dark herb stem, dried black olive, blue flowers, and a bit of nettle come together on the high toned, spicy and upright nose that picks up blue and black fruit and dried meat nuance with air. Fresh, tough and bright on entry, this shows power with great energy in the mouth and impressive definition. Structurally this is superbly balanced with wild berry fruit that is fresh and taut, though it does drop off a touch on the finish. Filled with black raspberry fruit, sour plums and slight port like aromas on the nose with a great green, almost balsamic freshness, this really captures the beauty of Touriga Nacional. 92pts
2012 Quinta do Vale Meao $90
Shows some nutty, oaky sweetness on the dense, dark and powerful nose. On entry the nutty and lightly gingery oak is fairly assertive but this remains lively with juicy acids and fine grained, polished tannins that are covered by a supple, almost silky robe of brilliant black raspberry fruit. This lacks some definition on the backend, and finishes a bit short with subtle hints of herb stems adding some complexity to the finale. Fairly spicy, this should show additional elegance with time in the bottle. 91pts
2011 Quinta do Vale Meao $90
Nutty oak, all creamy cognac and cigar box is dominant on the perfumy nose which also shows some subtle fruit aromas. A touch compact on entry, this then gains weight and power in the mouth, a bit tough but with excellent depth on the palate. Some nice inner mouth perfumes emerge slowly but this is still mostly tight and closed with inky, black fruit and quite tannic. Dark, dry, and powerful on the finish with some stemmy spice and pipe tobacco notes that are persistante leading to mineral, stony note on the finale. This is quite young and should be laid down for five or more years. 93pts
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Quinta de la Rosa
2010 Quinta de la Rosa Tinto $20
A touch smoky and sweet with dry port herbal and spicy notes, peppery and leathery on the nose. On entry this is smooth with great acids lending a tart cast to the clear, firm, earthy and dry fruit. Perhaps a touch simple with plummy and wild berry notes on the palate, this displays good length, is elegant in the mouth, and even shows a bit of finesse on the finish. A very solid offering and a good value. 88pts
2011 Quinta de la Rosa La Rosa $40
60% old vine vineyard field lend, 40% Touriga nacional
Smokey and fairly oaky on the nose with a nutty and expensive aroma. A big wine on entry, round and rolls into the mouth like the changing tide. There are great acids supporting a bright juicy bramble berry punch on entry followed by lots of tannin, dry and a little stern on the palate, though this is so well endowed with fruit that they can be hard to discern. Everything wraps up in a long powerful finish filled with nuanced bay leaf and vanilla notes accenting handfuls of crushed berries and hints of mint and balsam, and a mineral finale. I like this very much. 92pts
2011 Quinta de la Rosa Passagem Reserva $25
Hottest dried part of the Douro
Powerful balsamic, animal and gamy aromas are well balanced by nutty, chocolate oak notes on the nose. This shows power and elegance in a vibrant style even if the fruit does have a decidedly roasted edge. Textural this is quite fine, bright, juicy and transparent, it is a big ass wine streaked with medicinal, balsamic and briary accents, finishing with power and vibrancy, dusty, with a hint of pomegranate in all the depth of dark berry, plummy fruit. A statement wine, and possibly better to taste than to have at the table, but quite impressive none the less. 93pts
Poeira
2013 Poeira Branco
Second vintage, Alvarinho grafted onto very old rootstock
Deep and fragrant on the nose with just a hint of gooseberry lurking under apple, and under ripe pineapple fruit. Powerful on entry with bright acids supporting rich mineral notes and lots of tart citrus fruit that starts put all lemon oil in the mouth, then turns mineral with shades of lime and faint orange tones. Long, pure and very fine. 90pts
2010 Poeira Dusty $20
Purchased fruit
Fresh and complex, and yes a bit dusty n the nose along with spicy with slightly medicinal black cherry fruit and plum tinged with a hint of licorice. Fresh and juicy in the mouth this is a bright wine all blackberries and tension in the mouth, and fairly tannic. A powerful little wine which should age well for a few years, already delivering plenty of cherry and blackberry fruit in a clean and fresh style. Bring on the burgers and steak. 87pts
2011 Po de Poeira $20
Plummy and beefy on the nose with hints of licorice and spicy a bit syrah like even, but with that caramel, sweet dried fruits and spice note typical of the Duoro. Soft but elegant in the mouth, this has late arriving acidity and fine tannins supporting very pretty fruit. This already shows an almost silky texture early on the palate, then the structure kicks in on the backend as black berry flavors pop before leading to a moderately long finish. This shows fine power and purity. 88pts
2011 Poeira $40
Tight on the nose with subtle hints of licorice and mint, though this is not very expressive, air does bring out shisty, dusty soil notes. This turns out to be a sneaky wine with huge power and yet it remains elegant with exceptional balance. There’s remarkable freshness here, crushed berry fruits framed with hints of juniper that turns darker and plummier in the mouth with a backend filled with slightly medicinal black cherry fruit. This is seamless, a steel fist in a silk glove, with huge tannins completely covered by the rich, yet supple fruit. The finish is long and very fine. Really a fabulous wine in the making that combines power and elegance 93pts
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Lavradores de Feitoria
2013 Lavradores de Feitoria Douro Branco $12
Mineral, bright and a bit earthy on the nose. In the mouth this has a little edge of sweetness to the peachy apple fruit. Appealingly tight and well structured for a wine of this size, this remains very fresh bright, and refreshing in the mouth with attractive tension in the mouth and through the modest finish. 87pts
2012 Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos Branco $15
Bit of smoke of smoke greets the nose here along with light floral, apple blossom aromas and fresh orchard fruit notes all layered over some subtle oak tones. Again one finds a leading edge of sweetness to the fruit here, though perhaps more apparent given that it is compounded by the sweetness of the oak used here. Fresh and bright, with some mineral notes and the weight of the oak adding depth on the palate, this offers a nice blend of pure fruit and oa, for those who prefer a more internationally styled wine. 87pts
2013 Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos Sauvignon Blanc $NA
Fine tense grassy nose. Rather tense in the mouth as well and very bright though with a hint of sweetness on entry, than distinctly grapefruity through the palate and the modest finish. Clean and easy enough to drink. 83pts
2011 Lavradores de Feitoria Quinta Meruge Branco $30
100% barrel ferment viosino,outguess, not toast,
Lots of oak is apparent on the nose but it's very incense, church candle wax toned. There’s some subtle fruit here as well but the oak obscures it for the most part at this point. Tense and bright in the mouth, this has power and elegance, with the oak adding a touch of sweetness to the core of lovely pineapple and lemon curd fruit here. A touch of tannin pops early on the finish then this turns quite fresh with just a hint of cool citrus fruit lingering on the palate and some hints of incense laced inner mouth perfumes. Distinctive. 89pts
2012 Lavradores de Feitoria Tinto $10
Younger vineyards, no oak,
Dusty, inky, and briary on the slightly root veg styled nose. Juicy, clear and fresh on the palate this is a bit easy in the mouth with lovely black cherry fruit framed with gently savory edges and a touch of dusty earth. The finish is clean, if a bit short. Straightforward and fresh. 84pts
2011 Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos $12
Intensely aromatic showing a bit of toffee, big bold black fruit, spicy notes, bit of sage, sweet black fruit that shows some emerging complexity. Open, juicy, big and pure on the palate, this is packed with black cherry, black berry fruit in a fairly tannic and powerful style. This is a touch simple but very well put together with some dried fruit leathery, dried black cherry fruit lingering on the slightly inky finish. A lot of wine for the money and one that should improve with a year or two in bottle. 88pts
2010 Lavradores de Feitoria Quinta da Costa $30
South facing slopes, a wine that show the full power of the region
Big candied aromas emerge on the port like nose filled with jellied black fruits, leather, big spice, licorice and caramel notes. A bit soft on entry and broad in the mouth though not completely matte on the palate. Braised herbs and dark fruit emerge on entry, followed by powerful, extracty concentration of deep fruit. This does not have a lot of nuance, but it is powerful and tannic, and surprisingly fresh right through the long, firm finish. A powerhouse style. 89pts
2010 Lavradores de Feitoria Meruge $30
Tinto roriz 90% north facing, shooting for more elegance, less extraction,
Smoky and complex on the nose which shows off grilled meats, peppery spice, fine subtle oak shadings, and black fruit on the complex and nuanced nose. Medium plus bodied and acid driven in the mouth, this is taut, and elegant on the palate, with, great transparent red fruit that is gently astringent and complemented by hint of herbs and pepper. Everything wraps up in the long, austere finish. Very firm and dry, but impressively detailed in the mouth with real finesse emerging on the finish. This too is bound to improve with two or three years in the cellar. 90pst
2009 Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos Grande Escolha $50
Fields blinded from vines over 70 years old, then barrel selected
Smoky on the nose,this has that sweet dried fruits and spice and dried herb topped with, licorice notes typical of the region. In the mouth this is powerful but supple with late arriving acids and tannins adding structure and lending nice tension to the complex flavors of nuanced blueberry and blackberry fruit tinged with peppery spice and wood accents. The finish is a touch short, though it does reveal fine purity to the sweet, vaguely berry toned red currant fruit. There’s a whisper of heat here as well that detracts slightly from the finale. Complex, sophisticated and harkening back to a different style of wine. 91pts
Such was the case with the wines of Portugal, what may seem as a bit of an odd way to kick off reporting on a wine show in Germany, but in truth it is perfectly illustrative of ProWein. ou see ProWein is an international fair, and being exclusive to the trade means that the crowds are well behaved, in general, and kept to a moderately busy level. That allows participants time and space with producers that other event often lack. I had a long list of wineries, regions, and countries that i wanted to focus on at proWein. Sadly I was not able to hit them all, though in my final two hours or so at the event I did manage to swing by Portugal’s space at the event and was fortunate to be able to taste through the portfolios of several producers.
As you may know I am a big fan of Portuguese wines. I find them to be generally old world in style, in part due to the winemaking, but also due to the indigenous varieties used throughout Portugal. Varieties that seem to be fairly resistant to spoofilation. The results tend to be wine that are fairly fruity, but not candied, even if they do show some roasted notes with a certain frequency, resulting of course from Portugal’s rather torrid summers. In addition to fruit though, the wines display subtlety and complexity. Floral and spice notes that are inherent in some of the varieties used, as well as soil tones brought forth from the vineyards themselves. They are fascinating wines and generally pretty fun to taste, and in many cases great values. Sometimes stunningly so.
Today’s line-up is made of of known players, so to a certain extent they offer less values than some smaller or undiscovered producers from Portugal, but at the same time this is to large extent the cream of the crop. If you’re looking for top quality Portuguese wines across the board this is where you should begin. Of course some producers are not listed here, but many of them were included on my trip to Portugal last year<<http://www.snooth.com/articles/the-red-wines-of-portugal/>>, so in the interest of variety, and keeping in mind that I had just over two hours to spend on Portuguese wines, I opted to visit the following wineries.
The wines were, as expected, interesting and delicious. While ProWein is a fabulous place to taste a large variety of wine, it is not the best place to taste wines critically, if for no other reason that you will end up tasting dozens of wines a day for three days. palate fatigue may set in. You definitely need to recalibrate occasionally since so many wines on offer are top level wines; it’s easy to become a bit jaded unless you remain vigilant. I hope the notes that follow illustrate a certain vigilance on my part. They are certainly not definitive but do give one a good idea of what is coming out of Portugal these days. Once known almost exclusively for dessert wines and inexpensive table wines, Portugal has taken its rightful place at the table of fine wine producers with their unique portfolio of distinctive, terroir driven, and uniquely flavored wines that every winelover should try. You might not find all the wines to your liking, but as is the case nearly everywhere that wine is produced today, there is such a broad set of styles being produced, that it is only a matter of time before you do. And when you do, you will be duly impressed!
So now on to the wines. Decidedly Douro skewed, this region so famous for the production of port has both the vineyards and the additional resources available to have made the transition to producing premium tables wines swift and seamless. It’s not the only region in Portugal worthy of attention, but because the port houses wield influence and have distribution channels already in place, it’s a great place to start. the wines are generally available in diverse markets, that not all bottlings reach every market. As I mentioned already these may nt the value leaders in portugal but if you want to know what portuguese table wine has become in the 21st century this is where you should begin!
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Niepoort
2012 Niepoort Twisted Tinto $15
Dusty, meaty and spicy on the nose with black fruit layered over base notes of hot iron and gravel. On entry there’s a hit of sweet oak spice sweet oak spices followed by fruit that is a bit dry and raw, though bright and fresh on the backend which turns rather smooth and juicy with a little licorice tone and candied blackberry flavors that linger on the modest finish. Could use a year in bottle to better integrate but shows good typicity already. 87pts
2011 Niepoort Vertente $30
Beautiful blue floral notes greet the nose layered over blueberry fruit that is framed by a sour meatiness. In the mouth this is powerful, smooth and a touch plump with lots of ripe tannins. There are hints of flowers and herbs on the palate, all wrapped up in big blueberry and black berry fruit that finishes with austere minerality and some drying tannins. Needs a year or three to come into it’s own but shows power and purity already. 88pts
2011 Niepoort Redoma $40
40% of stems included, tread in lagare
A bit herbal and briary with fabulous aromas of wild flowers adding detail to the dark berry and slightly plummy fruit. Very fresh and clear on the palate and already showing beautiful fruit with well managed tannins adding richness and depth yet this remains transparent and fairly light on its feet.even in the mouth one finds great perfumes and the tannins here, while a touch chewy, are so pliant and fresh that this is already fun to drink. The finish is long and just a bit tight today, but the fruit and perfumes do linger on the palate. Absolutely lovely. 91pts
2011 Niepoort Batuta $75
Big, ripe, and plummy on the nose with nuanced candied black fruit, licorice, dried plum and medicinal aromas paired with cinnamon bark and resins notes, all making for a complex perfume. A touch balsamic on entry, this is bright and vibrant in the mouth with tons of edgy tannins supporting a bright core of plums, sour black cherry and earthy fruit. The powerful acids and tannins need to age a bit to fully integrate but this shows beautiful persistence to the fruit and complexity on the palate. 92pts
2011 Niepoort Charme $80
Lagare, 100% stems
Very smoky and stemmy on the elegant, complex and deep nose. that elegance translate to the palate where this is fresh and surprisingly Pinot like in weight and feel, with juicy acids and tannins that are firmer than Pinot but in scale with some tannic Burgundy. Elegant, nuanced and long on the palate with little wild cherry fruit and lots of stemmy and stem spice accents leading to the backend where the tannins turn a bit dominant leading to a moderately long finish that shows tea and sweet tobacco. Not for everyone but a distinctive and fascinating wine. 89pts
2009 Niepoort Robustus $100
50% stems, four years in big wood, two and three thousand liters,
Big, spicy and complex on the nose with chocolate, old wood, dried fruit, fruit cake and balsamic aromas. In the mouth this is smooth, rich and polished with lots of small, soft tannins and flavors of wild cherries in alcohol framed with nice spice notes. Finishing a bit short and acid driven, this remains refined and
powerful, still fairly tannic,and marked by some smoky soil notes from start to finish. A bit of a shift in style with a blend of youthful structure and evolving aromatics, this would probably benefit from a bit of bottle age or a moderately long decant. 89pts
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Quinta do Vale Meao
2014 Quinta do Vale Meao Meandro White $NA
A bit bright on the palate with bright, clear flavors of lemon curd and gummi bears. Almost juicy fruit flavored finishing dry and with a refreshing hint of astringency. Nice texture and weight if a bit on the fruity side of things. 87pts
2012 Quinta do Vale Meao Meandro $25
cask sample
Sweet and spicy on the nose with a bit of gingerbread and a green herbal floral cast adding detail and complexity. Bright, transparent, and very juicy on the palate with a bit of a minty edge to the red and black fruits, almost a touch of currant going on here. Tannins are soft and this is a bit short today. 86pts
2011 Quinta do Vale Meao Meandro $25
Fine depth on the nose and nuance with lots of spicy black peppery accents to the plum, earth and worcestershire sauce aromas. Bright, lively and full of spiced black fruit on entry, this shows great energy in the mouth, a bit inky and opaque with richness today, but so zesty with firm, well measured if dry tannins, supporting clear and fresh blackberry fruit with a hint of boysenberry that pops on the backend and persists through the moderately long finish. 88pts
2011 Quinta do Vale Meao Monte Meal $NA
Touriga Nacional from alluvial gravel
Big wild berry fruit on the nose is layered over a base of dusty, spicy, inky aromas that are framed with a fine dried meat note. Opening with tons of wild blackberry cherry fruit, and herbal spicy, this lacks a touch of brightness in the mouth and is fairly tannic and astringent. The midpalate is a bit tough and angular, with mineral driven raspberry flavors that would be rather elegant if not for the rustic tannins. Finishing with a lingering note of astringency, this shows a minty edge to the blackberry fruit and incipient notes of tobacco and black tea. Promising, but not there yet. 87pts
2011 Quinta do Vale Meao Monte Meal $NA
Touriga Nacional from granite soils
Dark herb stem, dried black olive, blue flowers, and a bit of nettle come together on the high toned, spicy and upright nose that picks up blue and black fruit and dried meat nuance with air. Fresh, tough and bright on entry, this shows power with great energy in the mouth and impressive definition. Structurally this is superbly balanced with wild berry fruit that is fresh and taut, though it does drop off a touch on the finish. Filled with black raspberry fruit, sour plums and slight port like aromas on the nose with a great green, almost balsamic freshness, this really captures the beauty of Touriga Nacional. 92pts
2012 Quinta do Vale Meao $90
Shows some nutty, oaky sweetness on the dense, dark and powerful nose. On entry the nutty and lightly gingery oak is fairly assertive but this remains lively with juicy acids and fine grained, polished tannins that are covered by a supple, almost silky robe of brilliant black raspberry fruit. This lacks some definition on the backend, and finishes a bit short with subtle hints of herb stems adding some complexity to the finale. Fairly spicy, this should show additional elegance with time in the bottle. 91pts
2011 Quinta do Vale Meao $90
Nutty oak, all creamy cognac and cigar box is dominant on the perfumy nose which also shows some subtle fruit aromas. A touch compact on entry, this then gains weight and power in the mouth, a bit tough but with excellent depth on the palate. Some nice inner mouth perfumes emerge slowly but this is still mostly tight and closed with inky, black fruit and quite tannic. Dark, dry, and powerful on the finish with some stemmy spice and pipe tobacco notes that are persistante leading to mineral, stony note on the finale. This is quite young and should be laid down for five or more years. 93pts
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Quinta de la Rosa
2010 Quinta de la Rosa Tinto $20
A touch smoky and sweet with dry port herbal and spicy notes, peppery and leathery on the nose. On entry this is smooth with great acids lending a tart cast to the clear, firm, earthy and dry fruit. Perhaps a touch simple with plummy and wild berry notes on the palate, this displays good length, is elegant in the mouth, and even shows a bit of finesse on the finish. A very solid offering and a good value. 88pts
2011 Quinta de la Rosa La Rosa $40
60% old vine vineyard field lend, 40% Touriga nacional
Smokey and fairly oaky on the nose with a nutty and expensive aroma. A big wine on entry, round and rolls into the mouth like the changing tide. There are great acids supporting a bright juicy bramble berry punch on entry followed by lots of tannin, dry and a little stern on the palate, though this is so well endowed with fruit that they can be hard to discern. Everything wraps up in a long powerful finish filled with nuanced bay leaf and vanilla notes accenting handfuls of crushed berries and hints of mint and balsam, and a mineral finale. I like this very much. 92pts
2011 Quinta de la Rosa Passagem Reserva $25
Hottest dried part of the Douro
Powerful balsamic, animal and gamy aromas are well balanced by nutty, chocolate oak notes on the nose. This shows power and elegance in a vibrant style even if the fruit does have a decidedly roasted edge. Textural this is quite fine, bright, juicy and transparent, it is a big ass wine streaked with medicinal, balsamic and briary accents, finishing with power and vibrancy, dusty, with a hint of pomegranate in all the depth of dark berry, plummy fruit. A statement wine, and possibly better to taste than to have at the table, but quite impressive none the less. 93pts
Poeira
2013 Poeira Branco
Second vintage, Alvarinho grafted onto very old rootstock
Deep and fragrant on the nose with just a hint of gooseberry lurking under apple, and under ripe pineapple fruit. Powerful on entry with bright acids supporting rich mineral notes and lots of tart citrus fruit that starts put all lemon oil in the mouth, then turns mineral with shades of lime and faint orange tones. Long, pure and very fine. 90pts
2010 Poeira Dusty $20
Purchased fruit
Fresh and complex, and yes a bit dusty n the nose along with spicy with slightly medicinal black cherry fruit and plum tinged with a hint of licorice. Fresh and juicy in the mouth this is a bright wine all blackberries and tension in the mouth, and fairly tannic. A powerful little wine which should age well for a few years, already delivering plenty of cherry and blackberry fruit in a clean and fresh style. Bring on the burgers and steak. 87pts
2011 Po de Poeira $20
Plummy and beefy on the nose with hints of licorice and spicy a bit syrah like even, but with that caramel, sweet dried fruits and spice note typical of the Duoro. Soft but elegant in the mouth, this has late arriving acidity and fine tannins supporting very pretty fruit. This already shows an almost silky texture early on the palate, then the structure kicks in on the backend as black berry flavors pop before leading to a moderately long finish. This shows fine power and purity. 88pts
2011 Poeira $40
Tight on the nose with subtle hints of licorice and mint, though this is not very expressive, air does bring out shisty, dusty soil notes. This turns out to be a sneaky wine with huge power and yet it remains elegant with exceptional balance. There’s remarkable freshness here, crushed berry fruits framed with hints of juniper that turns darker and plummier in the mouth with a backend filled with slightly medicinal black cherry fruit. This is seamless, a steel fist in a silk glove, with huge tannins completely covered by the rich, yet supple fruit. The finish is long and very fine. Really a fabulous wine in the making that combines power and elegance 93pts
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Lavradores de Feitoria
2013 Lavradores de Feitoria Douro Branco $12
Mineral, bright and a bit earthy on the nose. In the mouth this has a little edge of sweetness to the peachy apple fruit. Appealingly tight and well structured for a wine of this size, this remains very fresh bright, and refreshing in the mouth with attractive tension in the mouth and through the modest finish. 87pts
2012 Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos Branco $15
Bit of smoke of smoke greets the nose here along with light floral, apple blossom aromas and fresh orchard fruit notes all layered over some subtle oak tones. Again one finds a leading edge of sweetness to the fruit here, though perhaps more apparent given that it is compounded by the sweetness of the oak used here. Fresh and bright, with some mineral notes and the weight of the oak adding depth on the palate, this offers a nice blend of pure fruit and oa, for those who prefer a more internationally styled wine. 87pts
2013 Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos Sauvignon Blanc $NA
Fine tense grassy nose. Rather tense in the mouth as well and very bright though with a hint of sweetness on entry, than distinctly grapefruity through the palate and the modest finish. Clean and easy enough to drink. 83pts
2011 Lavradores de Feitoria Quinta Meruge Branco $30
100% barrel ferment viosino,outguess, not toast,
Lots of oak is apparent on the nose but it's very incense, church candle wax toned. There’s some subtle fruit here as well but the oak obscures it for the most part at this point. Tense and bright in the mouth, this has power and elegance, with the oak adding a touch of sweetness to the core of lovely pineapple and lemon curd fruit here. A touch of tannin pops early on the finish then this turns quite fresh with just a hint of cool citrus fruit lingering on the palate and some hints of incense laced inner mouth perfumes. Distinctive. 89pts
2012 Lavradores de Feitoria Tinto $10
Younger vineyards, no oak,
Dusty, inky, and briary on the slightly root veg styled nose. Juicy, clear and fresh on the palate this is a bit easy in the mouth with lovely black cherry fruit framed with gently savory edges and a touch of dusty earth. The finish is clean, if a bit short. Straightforward and fresh. 84pts
2011 Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos $12
Intensely aromatic showing a bit of toffee, big bold black fruit, spicy notes, bit of sage, sweet black fruit that shows some emerging complexity. Open, juicy, big and pure on the palate, this is packed with black cherry, black berry fruit in a fairly tannic and powerful style. This is a touch simple but very well put together with some dried fruit leathery, dried black cherry fruit lingering on the slightly inky finish. A lot of wine for the money and one that should improve with a year or two in bottle. 88pts
2010 Lavradores de Feitoria Quinta da Costa $30
South facing slopes, a wine that show the full power of the region
Big candied aromas emerge on the port like nose filled with jellied black fruits, leather, big spice, licorice and caramel notes. A bit soft on entry and broad in the mouth though not completely matte on the palate. Braised herbs and dark fruit emerge on entry, followed by powerful, extracty concentration of deep fruit. This does not have a lot of nuance, but it is powerful and tannic, and surprisingly fresh right through the long, firm finish. A powerhouse style. 89pts
2010 Lavradores de Feitoria Meruge $30
Tinto roriz 90% north facing, shooting for more elegance, less extraction,
Smoky and complex on the nose which shows off grilled meats, peppery spice, fine subtle oak shadings, and black fruit on the complex and nuanced nose. Medium plus bodied and acid driven in the mouth, this is taut, and elegant on the palate, with, great transparent red fruit that is gently astringent and complemented by hint of herbs and pepper. Everything wraps up in the long, austere finish. Very firm and dry, but impressively detailed in the mouth with real finesse emerging on the finish. This too is bound to improve with two or three years in the cellar. 90pst
2009 Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos Grande Escolha $50
Fields blinded from vines over 70 years old, then barrel selected
Smoky on the nose,this has that sweet dried fruits and spice and dried herb topped with, licorice notes typical of the region. In the mouth this is powerful but supple with late arriving acids and tannins adding structure and lending nice tension to the complex flavors of nuanced blueberry and blackberry fruit tinged with peppery spice and wood accents. The finish is a touch short, though it does reveal fine purity to the sweet, vaguely berry toned red currant fruit. There’s a whisper of heat here as well that detracts slightly from the finale. Complex, sophisticated and harkening back to a different style of wine. 91pts