2016 Barolo: Values Plays and the Top Wines
I have been too lazy of late, this whole pandemic speed of life has made it less exciting to write and engage, somewhat counterintuitively i would add since so much in-person engagement has been curbed of late. With near infinite time on my hands I have found it less important to work and more important to play, which is neither here nor there, simply an observation on life and some trifling justification for the delay in following up here.
Another 20 or so wines are included below, all Barolo purchased for less than $50. There is, as should be expected, quite a wide range of styles and frankly quality on display even at this relatively affordable price point. There are a sufficient number of wines to allow a Barolo lover to build a small cellar for near and future enjoyment. A very positive result of this series of tasting, that, while fairly wide ranging, is far from comprehensive, though on a national scale is relatively complete.
That is good news, for while there were plenty of disappointments as well, the most disappointing feature of the 2016 crop of Barolo is the ever larger group that is no longer priced within the grasp of many Barolo lovers. The other disappointment, though it's always the case, and I know producers would argue with me here, but these wines will need plenty of time in the cellar, not all mind you, but many. This is only a disappointment because I have enjoyed these wines so much that I would love to just continue enjoying them. This will be possible for a little while longer but it will probably prove beneficial to leave many of these wines to mature for 3 to 5 years if you want to experience them at their best.
In a sense I saved the best of the bunch for last here, a small flight of five wines which I followed for 3 days instead of two as was the case for the other wines in these line-ups. I had tasted each of those wines at some prior point, and felt that they showed best after their second day, a nod to their ageworthyness and potential in the cellar. I don’t think there is much more to say about the vintage or the tastings, enough was said in Part One and Part Two of this series, and I encourage you to explore those flights in more detail. For those that prefer not to, and for completeness I kick this set of tasting notes off with a simple list of my top 2016 Barolo under $50. Each of these wines is excellent and compete favorably with wines garnering much higher prices.
2016 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe 90pts $29
2016 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo 93pts $48
2016 Vietti Castiglione Barolo 93pts $45
2016 Massolino Barolo 93pts $48
2016 Pecchenino Barolo San Giuseppe 93pts $50
2016 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Bussia 92pts $45
2016 Luigi Einaudi Barolo LUDO 92pts $38
2016 Oddero Barolo 91pts $38
2016 Ellena Giuseppe Barolo 91pts $34
2016 Paolo Scavino Barolo 91pts $37
2016 Bruna Grimaldi Barolo Badarina 91pts $48
2016 Mario Marengo Barolo 91pts $45
2016 Mauro Molino Gallinotto 91pts $37
2016 Mauro Molino Bricco Luciani 91pts $50
2016 Mauro Veglio Barolo 91pts $36
Flight 3
2016 Fratelli Revello Barolo Giachini 15% 84pts $48
Initial impressions: Smells a touch alcoholic and certainly rather high toned with aromas of varnish, green watermelon skin, and lilac laid over a subtle base of talcy spiciness. Interesting in the mouth as there are moments of moderate richness to the fruit, lightness, elegance, and alcoholic heat. It's a bit schizophrenic right now with modest fruit, a definite green herbal angle to the fruit, a short finish, and a touch of heat, but at the same time there is a nice balsamic cast to the palate and some minerality trying to emerge on the minty finish. Acid is acceptable, tannins are a bit crude. Too tannic. 83-85
With food: A bit hot, and quite medicinal, licorice toned, fennel seed with the food. 84-86
Day 2: Tight with a base of wood spice hinting at juniper spice laying under dark, pruny fruit with streaks of vanilla and marmite. Rich on entry, lots of power here up front, then very little on the backend. The fruit is pleasant but light while the wine is relatively tannic and quite short. Tarry, definitely better today but still more impressive than pleasurable. Such a strange wine, almost showing some heat, but it's tolerable, with such an initial burst of intensity that has very little follow through. 84-85
2016 Mauro Molino Gallinotto 14.5% 91pts $37
Initial impressions: Moderately oaky on first sniff but at the same time this shows a strong core of slightly leathery and balsamic toned fruit. It’s actually quite a pretty nose with just a hint of latex serving as a distraction but generally quite perfumed, complex, and balanced. The fruit is youthful, cherry and grapey. Smooth on entry, fairly well polished with fine supporting acids and tannins that are present but well measured. The tannins build here but the fruit remains obvious, intense and rather lovely with a hint of something green and fresh helping the transition to the rather long, fruit and cedar laced finish, Very nicely done. Youthful but approachable, needs a few years but not a long slumber. 88-90
With food: Big, bold, fruity and vivid in the mouth with a long finish. A touch hotter than the Bricco Luciana but still a fine food wine. 88-89
Day 2: Intensely aromatic with fruit verging on blackberry well supported by oak spice, it’s obvious, but not quite intrusive. The fruit is quite vivid. Smooth, showing excellent integration, lively with black berry black plum, light oak spice and dried rose petal flavors. This is not my style but it is quite impressive, particularly in light of the price. It’s very pleasant to drink and the tannins are super fine with well managed wood tannins that don’t detract front he whole. Long finish, lively and elegant. 91-92
2016 Seghesio La Villa 14.5% 88pts $48
Initial impressions: Tight, slightly fruity with dark berry aromas backed up with faint suggestions of nutty oak. Quite floral with hints of white pepper and licorice adding detail to the core of dark, candied, berry fruit. Lithe on entry, gracefully in the mouth with dusty, fine grained tannins and decent acidity, but not a lot of depth on the palate. This feels like it's shutting down already. Decent length, tart red berry fruit, refreshing with some peach skin on the finale. Well balanced fine and gentle with an emerging menthol note running from front to back. Texturally it is lacy and silky. .86-88
With food: Quite smooth, turns a bit medicinal and spicy but in a pleasant way, with good finishing verve that cleanses the palate, still undeniably embryonic 87-88
Day 2: A light hint of oak spice lends some complexity to the nose, along with zesty red fruits, red plums, and dried meatiness. Round and almost voluptuous on entry, then the wood tannins dry the palate, moderate length, nice nuance, if lacking a bit of complexity with nice red plummy fruit emerging on the backend once the oak spice subsides. 87-88
2016 Mauro Molino Bricco Luciani 14% 91pts $50
Initial impressions: Sweet on the nose, confected but not fruity more floral, rose, and soil driven aromatics. There's a backing hint of wood spice lending more intensity to the savory aspects of the nose. Tight, small, and compact in the mouth but with fine inner mouth perfumes and a classic structural balance. This is quite delicate and transparent, more about what is to come than what is here now, but the feel is terrific, showing fine tannins ripeness, and some finesse. The fruit slowly emerges, candied and medicinal, black cherry toned, with a suggestion of dried blood orange peel on the rather long and finely balanced finish. Very fresh and refreshing, it’s stoic presence not withstanding. 90-92
With food: Elegant, really works well, perhaps highlighting the oak aromas a touch but this works effortlessly with the food. 89-91
Day 2: Noticeably oaky today, and less attractive because of it, though it remains appealing with tons of intense berry, dried meat, wild strawberry, and fennel aromas. Rich in the mouth and then very strict but long. The tannins are fine grained, showing just a touch of woody dryness, but this remains quite well balanced with juicy acidity and fein depth of flavor on a taut, nervous frame developing strong aromas of rosehip with air. 89-90
2016 Paolo Scavino Bricco Ambrogio 15% 88pts $48
Initial impressions: A touch oaky and toasty on the nose, which also shows dried berry fruits, a hint of dark chocolate, and some minty tobacco highlights. Smooth on entry, and fairly matte in the mouth though not without some attractive sweet-tart berry flavors melding with tobacco, toasty oak, and some dark medicinal, tobacco tones. Tannins are dry, a bit of excess wood derived tannin, but the finish is long, powerful, and full of earth and licorice. A lot of wine, lacks some charm but delivers a fair level of intensity and chewiness. 87-89
With food: Intense, well balanced, just a touch of bitterness emerges on the backend along with some lingering heat. But this is smooth and powerful. 86-88
Day 2: Rather reticent on the nose with hints of wood spice, roasted strawberry and a vague meatiness to the aromas. Smooth and rich on entry, almost sweet on the palate with a hint of dried fruit followed by rather intense acidity and very compact, layered wood and fruit tannins lending this a chewy feel. It’s impressive in its scale, if less so with it rather narrow, if intense, array of flavors, earthy, a touch of mineral, pressed flowers and some dark fruit. 86-88
2016 Bruna Grimaldi Bricco Ambrogio 15% 90pts $39
Initial impressions: Tons of floral, chalky soil, and fresh herb aromas greet the nose with a hint of underlying pepperiness and some slightly exotic frutti del bosco tones. Small on entry, spherical, well balanced, fine tannins, good acidity, juicy with red cherry fruit front and center if not terribly intense on the palate. There's a slight candied quality at play here before this yields to a long, delicate and nuanced finish with old wood, soil, and dried floral notes. A touch short perhaps, but lovely with the elegance of the vintage, and a fine, layered feel. Lots of medicinal cherry fruit lingers in the finish. 88-90,
With food: Delicate and shows a touch of heat on the finish though while some wines assert their own character while pairing well with the food this somehow intensifies the flavors of the food. Lovely showing 88-90
Day 2: Preserved blood orange, lilac, a hint of wood spice, though not toasty, and lingonberries emerge on the aromatic and graceful nose. Puts on a little weight overnight and the tannins turn firmer but remain ripe and fine grained. This is elegant, moderately long, and very fine today with fruit that has gained a slightly darker tone but remains taut and vivid over the palate. Turning more earthy with time, with good depth and follow through. A lovely example of Barolo. 90-91
2016 Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 14% 83pts $45
Initial impressions: Very candied on the nose, with lots of black cherry, candied violet and powder sugar aromas layered over toasty, sweet, oak spice. Smells terrific, for a candy or a cake. To be accurate, it is recognizable as Nebbiolo, but it's very candied. The mouth is nothing like the nose, much more delicate, even a touch dilute perhaps with a pleasant feel marred by wood tannins that clip the finish. There is an appeal here, but the less appealing aspects of this wine are definitely dominant today. Short, dry, and clumsy. 82-84
With food: Raw, abrasive even, the flavor intensity just disappears leaving behind a raw skeleton. 78-80
Day 2: Sweet, toaty oak spice, violets, and some pruniness gracing the nose. This is improved today, too tannic with late arriving wood tannins, but linear, with a roasted strawberry/ strawberry confit character. It’s got some length but finishes harshly with hints of watermelon and oak. 82-83
2016 Cordero di Montezemolo Monfalletto 14.5% 87pts $43
Initial impressions: Lightly candied fruit, spicy oak, and peppery spice come together on the nose with decent intensity but this lacks some complexity. Very broad and open in the mouth, with a certain appealing immediacy here. The tannins are plentiful but soft, and the acidity quite well measured. It’s a fine wine for immediate consumption, though it should age well over the shorter term, say 5-7 years, though there is nothing wrong with drinking this today. It’s Barolo at like 80% scale. 86-87
With Food: Smooth, broad, rich, then short and diffuse on the backend and a whisper of heat. Pleasant 86-87
Day 2: A touch raw on the nose and showing much less integrated than yesterday. More cedar and wood is present along with a reduction of fruit driven aromas. More tannic, and austere, this is now showing a touch of a serious side, though with wood tannins being more dominant. It's not unpleasant, the fruit has gotten a bit plummy, shows decent length with some hazelnuttiness on the finish along with a hint of heat. Rather one dimensional, but with decent balance save the wood tannins, and some gentle floral accent emerging with air. 86-87
Flight 4
2016 Pecchenino Barolo San Giuseppe Lot 430 14% 93pts $50
Tight but well defined aromatic grace the nose with layers of menthol, old wood, sweet black cherry, a little darker fruits, dried rose, tar, pignoli and a fine array of dried spice notes with just a hint of a touch of roasted meatiness. Tight on entry as well, though with a certain richness on the palate, and great building intensity of flavors. Structurally this is moderately powerful but well balanced with juicy acidity and abundant, though quite ripe tannins. This is lovely, fresh, complex, earthy with balsamic and underbrush cast to the taut, crystalline, berry fruit, with hints of pomegranate, all culminating in a broad, long, pure finish which displays good energy and drive. Quite a classic wine, tannic yet fruity, with just a suggestion of rusticity that I find appealing. 91-93
With food: Rich, fruity, dark and plush, compliments the food but doesn’t offer a lot of contrast. 90-91
Day 2: Rather closed down though with some swirling scents of warm, dark, plummy fruit emerge from the glass paired with lovely sweet spice and incense aromas. Some warm licorice notes add a top note, there's a fair amount going on here, ripe and lush smelling. Rich on entry, powerful and then supple with very ripe, fine grained tannins and lovely acidity supporting a blanket of almost creamy ripe fruit that remains transparent and tightens up nicely on the rather long finish. A significant streak of licorice colors this from front of palate to finish. This really is a gorgeous wine, it lacks a bit of elegance perhaps and shows some alcoholic warmth on the finale but it’s packed with flavor and has a lovely texture. 92-93
2016 S & B Borgogno Barolo Cannubi 14% 87pts $40
Fairly herbal on the nose, aromatic and with solid underlying fruit redolent of cherry and wild raspberries, paired with citrusy, orange tinged aromas, hints of lime leaf and oily herbs. Soft, broad, tannic, and a touch acrid on entry with acids that are not [prominent but are assertive textually. The tannins are a bit dry here with perfumes of wood adding some complexity in the mouth. Very crude, and fairly tannic with more citrus on the modest finish and little depth of complexity. Very austere, elegant, classic cooler vintage Cannubi presentation but it lacks the depth and elegance of the better wines of the vintage. Really very little follow through. 84-86
With food: Better with food, the minerality really comes to the fore and this cuts through the palate, cleansing and refreshing the palate, not a lot of complexity but the structure here is what’s attractive, 87-89
Day 2: Full of sweet spices today with an underlying core of red cherry fruit, some sour meat accent notes, and a fine chalky, white soil base tone. Elegant and finely textured on entry, with greater length than yesterday but it’s mostly coming from uncovered acidity leaving a juicy impression in the mouth. Starts out promisingly but fades on the midpalate leaving an austere, relatively short finish. Pleasant with potential to improve but underwhelming. 86-87
2016 Bruna Grimaldi Barolo Badarina 14.5% 91pts $48
Warm berries greet the nose followed by discrete notes of butchers wax, licorice, mace, cinnamon, and some late arriving tobacco, dark soil tones and candied black fruit elements. Supple and fairly large scaled on entry with ripe tannins and good acidity covered with deep cherry fruit that displays moments of cocoa, pine, clay, and incipient tobacco complexity. A bit chewy, definitely powerful with excellent depth and concentration, which lead to a moderately long finish graced with noble tannins and gorgeously pure if not terribly complex fruit. Turns a bit plummy with air, with dried fruit character creeping in around the ages. Just a lovely wine to drink, should be a crowd pleaser at maturity. Lots of chalky, clay character emerges with air. 88-90
With food: Dry, austere, powerful and quite noble with food, perhaps a bit harder to pair but terrific tension and cut bodes well for the table, this would be great with wild game and birds 89-91
Day 2: Sweetly fruited on the nose with incipient notes of dried mushroom, truffle, and tobacco already adding complexity. Smooth and taut on entry, with fine minerality up front, a slow start, but this builds on the plate, never becoming heavy but becoming more assertive with fine acidity lending good cut and terrific little tannins. This is almost drinkable, I would guess 3-5 years and this will be ready to go. It’s very well balanced, with a very enjoyable earthy, mineral, dark date inflected cherry fruit profile. Really captures the elegance of the vintage quite well. 90-91
2016 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Villero 14.5% 88pts $50
Lovely intensity and complexity on the nose with nuanced aromas of blood, evergreen, dried lime, red currant, and lilacs. Very finely textured, decidedly medium weight, but not lacking in intensity and the freshness is particularly appealing here. The Flavor profile is very fresh with red fruits, citrus and herbs, and this is downright playful in the mouth. Clean, precise, long and elegant on the finish with some bristly tannins, There's a gentle dried herbal character here lending complexity, but this is surprisingly bright and energetic in the mouth with lovely transparency. Decent length, Neither terribly obvious nor terribly fruity, but bright, layered, nuanced, and retaining a sense of delicacy that the best wines of the vintage retain. 89-91
With food: Delicate, fruity, though a bit dry and austere, needs more delicate food 86-88
Day 2: Dried herbs, sweet fruit, clay and something saline greets the nose followed by more clay and some violet undertones. Smooth, focused and well defined, though this lacks some length. The dusty tannins linger on the palate but the delicate fruit fades fairly quickly. A fine grained, silky wine with lovely flavors that lacks some depth and persistence. 87-89
2016 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Bussia 14.5% 92pts $45
Dark and verging on brooding on the nose with base notes of damp coffee, braised herbs, and oily wood, even some poppy seeds, supporting jammy lingonberry fruit with a blue floral top note. Moderately rich, and so well balanced, this already feels terrific in the mouth with brightness, yet no obvious acidity, firm, yet no obvious tannins, and beautifully presented fruit layer across the top. This is very fine, pitch perfect flavors of wild berries, camphor, citrus peels, subtle middle eastern spices, all build on the palate leading to a firm, austere moderately long finish with powdery, fine tannins and lingering juicy acidity all topped off with a bright pop of fruit, and a hint of alcohol, on the finale. Very fine, though if there is knock to be made here it is that the wine feels just a hint dilute in the context of the vintage. 90-92
With food: Super aromatic, elegant but rich enough, totally classic, lovely stuff, really is beautiful with tajarin. 90-92
Day 2: A bit mushroomy on the nose in a very pleasant way but also very intense and deep with layers of prune, camphor, mint, and braised herbal notes. Taut, fine grained, juicy, with less intensity perhaps than yesterday but still impressive length. There's an almost seashell quality on the backend today along with great lingonberry/cranberry fruit. This is rather glycerine rich, which accounts for the early voluptuousness, but it’s also very well structured and should age very well. Classic Barolo with real elegance. 92-93
Flight 5
2016 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe 14.5% 90pts $29
Initial impressions: The fruitiest on the nose of this group, lots of licorice framing darker cherry verging on blackberry fruit. Not the most complex, but the most intense with fine menthol freshness and a lot of licorice given this a slightly candied medical note that recalls Golia candy/medicine. Smooth and fruity up front, lots of richness from the fruit across the midpalate leading to a fairly long, and slightly warm finish rich in fruit skin like tannins. Very well balanced, juicy, not quite silky but with very fine grained tannins and juicy acidity. 88-90
With food: Fruity, sour plum, but leaner and less harmonious with a bit of heat on the back. Very perfumed but this does have a hard time with rich food, showing some powdery tannins and turning a bit angular, try next time with Carbonara. 88-90
Day 2: So fragrant. Distinctly balsamic and fresh on the nose with a really spiced character covering darkening fruit. Like walking in the woods. Smooth, medium full, and with lots of fruit on entry, then this gains some tension through the midpalate, before dropping off slightly on the modest, though pleasant and delicate finish. Almost ready to go, quite delicious with good structure, but this seems like less of a long distance runner than the other wines in this flight. 89-91
Day 3: This has lost a step on the nose, still very pleasant with well balanced fruit, floral, balsamic and spice aromas but lacking the intensity of previous days. Almost plump today, very refreshing in the mouth with a drop off on the midpalate but a fine return to the transparent purplish berry fruit, a touch plummy today and showing a hint of warmth on the finish. Lovely and fresh with excellent cut and a zesty finale. 90pts With the potential to improve a bit. Not a long term ager, drink 2022-2030
2016 Vietti Castiglione Barolo 14.5% 93pts $45
Initial impressions: Wood aromas pop on the nose followed by soil, white flowers, candied fruit, balsam, medicinal and creosote aromas. So smooth, and very juicy and bright in the mouth, as serious as the competition though with a different character. One could say this is more Burgundian. With very fine tannins, and a willowy elegance on the palate. Finishing with good length and a bit of pastry fruit on the finale. There’s really a lot of retronasal action going on with this. 89-91
With food: So well balanced, shows a hint of butteryness, lovely wine with real finesse. Would do better with some veal and risotto. 90-93
Day 2: Quite aromatic, and quite complex, and still reminding me as much of Burgundy as of Barolo with it’s fine blend of floral aromas, spice, soil tones, and sagey mint, though the light dusting of licorice tones does pull me back to Barolo. So smooth, superb integration, great fruit pops on the midpalate then floats away delicately on the moderately long finish which is grounded by plenty of dusty tannins and wood spice that is very perfumed and fine. This remains lean and wiry, but there is a fatness to the fruit which bodes well. Very young still, and while it shows great potential it’s not well knit yet. Very smooth, just a little blocky. Approachable and delicious. 90-92
Day 3: This continues to offer up assertive aromas of spice, flowers, candied berry fruit, and this fine Burgundian spice aspect that I have to assume comes from the wood, just a touch smoky. Grainy tannins slightly dominate the palate today along with a very fine minerality and this sleek texture, slightly glossy but quite diaphanous. Just a lovely, elegant, nuanced wine that stands apart both texturally and with its wispy yet assertively deep flavors. This falls slightly outside of the mainstream but is gorgeous. Drink 2023-2035 93pts
2016 Oddero Barolo 14% 91pts $38
Initial impressions: Beautiful on the nose, very classic with its presentation of tar, a touch of wood spice, wild strawberries, camphor, and underlying floral aromatics. Turns quite floral quite quickly. Broad in the mouth, with lots of ripe tannins, clean lingonberry fruit, then some wood tannin on the backend, which carries with it some sweetness as well. So floral, broad, transparent, with good length. This is somewhat chewy at the moment. 89-92
With food: nervous, then austere, lovely complete, classic wine. Shows delicacy and elegance, really lovely, needs roast goose, or pheasant. 91-93
Day 2: Old school on the nose, savory, leathery, floral, a hint of fennel seed followed by light impressions of wild strawberry and wild cherry. Quite a nice note of camphor with incipient resinous, incense like aromas. Fuller and fruitier than yesterday, fine and elegant with good length. Great acids, softening tannins which are firm but approachable. There’s some lovely fruit here, delicate and fresh, but struggling to emerge, followed by lovely mineral, and almost sweet tobacco tones on the relatively long, gently minty finish. Bright, and juicy with the impression of sweetness added by dried fruit, dried cherry flavors. 90-92
Day 3: Slightly animale and pleasantly spiced with aromas of older wood, red currant, candle wax, peonies, nuanced, detailed and rather traditional. This has gained plenty of sweetness overnight, lots of fruit up front but then this turns lightly tannic, a bit dusty as well. A bit chewy, very classic presentation with good length. Just lovely perfumes, This might always be a touch austere but it’s fresh, palate cleansing, and fairly long. Should improve. 91pts Drink 2027-2043
2016 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo 14.5% 93pts $48
Initial impressions: Deep, slightly brooding, dark and earthy with an underlying sweetness to the aromas. Cool, icy, menthol. There’s mass here but this too is quite reticent today, a touch higher perceived alcohol than the Massolino, with more weight on the palate. Nice length, very tart, sour cherry flavors, also very mineraly with lots of limestone accents through the backend and decent finish. Very elegant, and very harmonious if austere and almost severe at the moment, but with ripe, supple, if abundant tannins. 89-91
With food: Fruity, generous, big front loaded wine with a finely textured finish. Gorgeous and complete. Long too! 91-93
Day 2: Dark, brooding, earthy, prune, dried fig, honeycomb, and church incense come together seamlessly on the nose. Medium full and effortlessly well balanced, the tannins here are so fine grained, they really are well covered allowing the fruit to emerge in all its cherry, earth, mint and herb glory. This is really very good, juicy but not tart, absolutely delicious, so attractively textured, not rough in any sense but appropriately firm particularly when the tannins emerge on the finale. Intense and transparent, it doesn’t get any better than this. The nose really opens up here, gaining wonderful florality and nuance. Juicy, sour cherry fruit. 92-94
Day 3: Plum, prune, mint and violet lay above an assertive base of white soil tones. Medium full with fabulous richness that almost covers the formidable structure here. This has tightened up since yesterday, turning a bit introverted. But this is absolutely packed and harmonious, a decidedly complete example of Barolo. This should turn out stunningly. 93pts drink 2024-2045
2016 Massolino Barolo 14.5% 93pts $48
Initial impressions: Gorgeous nose, very open and bright with a combination of sour wild berries, soil, tarry minerality, incipient pipe tobacco, a hint of sweet oak spice, all wrapped in gorgeously fresh balsamic aromas. Very taut on opening, lean, salty, and minerality with great length but lacking in generosity, which was not the case with a prior bottle. Nothing is out of place here, it’s very elegant, focused, and long, but the fruit is hiding at the moment. 87-88 based mostly on the nose. Generally hard and austere with tannins that are small scaled but very firm.
With food: Wow, this is better with food and makes the food taste better. Power and elegance, the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove. Glorious and perfumed. 92-94
Day 2: Dark and succulent on the nose, musky, tarry, animale, camphor, mint, with prune and dried berry fruit, along with spicy mint and licorice top note. Wow, this is really improving, it’s not a blockbuster, but is rich, deep, rugged, classic Barolo. This is already showing some drinkability, lovely depth, tannins are ripe and well managed, There’s real nuance to come, it’s subtle today but this is complete. 92-94
Day 3: So powerful on the nose with some iron aromas emerging today along with the licorice, tar, clay, dried rose petal, and blackberry/ almost black currant fruit
Rounder now, rich, powerful, chewy but fairly smooth at the same time, with lots of ripe tannins filling the fruit on the palate. The fruit is classic cherry toned fruit, clean, transparent and showing the complexity found on the nose, leading to a long fairly powerful if slightly warm finish ending on a candied orange peel, candied berry finale. Just a step behind the Alessandria, with more power but less nuance, but ultimately almost as complete. 93pts Drink 2024 - 2040
Another 20 or so wines are included below, all Barolo purchased for less than $50. There is, as should be expected, quite a wide range of styles and frankly quality on display even at this relatively affordable price point. There are a sufficient number of wines to allow a Barolo lover to build a small cellar for near and future enjoyment. A very positive result of this series of tasting, that, while fairly wide ranging, is far from comprehensive, though on a national scale is relatively complete.
That is good news, for while there were plenty of disappointments as well, the most disappointing feature of the 2016 crop of Barolo is the ever larger group that is no longer priced within the grasp of many Barolo lovers. The other disappointment, though it's always the case, and I know producers would argue with me here, but these wines will need plenty of time in the cellar, not all mind you, but many. This is only a disappointment because I have enjoyed these wines so much that I would love to just continue enjoying them. This will be possible for a little while longer but it will probably prove beneficial to leave many of these wines to mature for 3 to 5 years if you want to experience them at their best.
In a sense I saved the best of the bunch for last here, a small flight of five wines which I followed for 3 days instead of two as was the case for the other wines in these line-ups. I had tasted each of those wines at some prior point, and felt that they showed best after their second day, a nod to their ageworthyness and potential in the cellar. I don’t think there is much more to say about the vintage or the tastings, enough was said in Part One and Part Two of this series, and I encourage you to explore those flights in more detail. For those that prefer not to, and for completeness I kick this set of tasting notes off with a simple list of my top 2016 Barolo under $50. Each of these wines is excellent and compete favorably with wines garnering much higher prices.
2016 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe 90pts $29
2016 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo 93pts $48
2016 Vietti Castiglione Barolo 93pts $45
2016 Massolino Barolo 93pts $48
2016 Pecchenino Barolo San Giuseppe 93pts $50
2016 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Bussia 92pts $45
2016 Luigi Einaudi Barolo LUDO 92pts $38
2016 Oddero Barolo 91pts $38
2016 Ellena Giuseppe Barolo 91pts $34
2016 Paolo Scavino Barolo 91pts $37
2016 Bruna Grimaldi Barolo Badarina 91pts $48
2016 Mario Marengo Barolo 91pts $45
2016 Mauro Molino Gallinotto 91pts $37
2016 Mauro Molino Bricco Luciani 91pts $50
2016 Mauro Veglio Barolo 91pts $36
Flight 3
2016 Fratelli Revello Barolo Giachini 15% 84pts $48
Initial impressions: Smells a touch alcoholic and certainly rather high toned with aromas of varnish, green watermelon skin, and lilac laid over a subtle base of talcy spiciness. Interesting in the mouth as there are moments of moderate richness to the fruit, lightness, elegance, and alcoholic heat. It's a bit schizophrenic right now with modest fruit, a definite green herbal angle to the fruit, a short finish, and a touch of heat, but at the same time there is a nice balsamic cast to the palate and some minerality trying to emerge on the minty finish. Acid is acceptable, tannins are a bit crude. Too tannic. 83-85
With food: A bit hot, and quite medicinal, licorice toned, fennel seed with the food. 84-86
Day 2: Tight with a base of wood spice hinting at juniper spice laying under dark, pruny fruit with streaks of vanilla and marmite. Rich on entry, lots of power here up front, then very little on the backend. The fruit is pleasant but light while the wine is relatively tannic and quite short. Tarry, definitely better today but still more impressive than pleasurable. Such a strange wine, almost showing some heat, but it's tolerable, with such an initial burst of intensity that has very little follow through. 84-85
2016 Mauro Molino Gallinotto 14.5% 91pts $37
Initial impressions: Moderately oaky on first sniff but at the same time this shows a strong core of slightly leathery and balsamic toned fruit. It’s actually quite a pretty nose with just a hint of latex serving as a distraction but generally quite perfumed, complex, and balanced. The fruit is youthful, cherry and grapey. Smooth on entry, fairly well polished with fine supporting acids and tannins that are present but well measured. The tannins build here but the fruit remains obvious, intense and rather lovely with a hint of something green and fresh helping the transition to the rather long, fruit and cedar laced finish, Very nicely done. Youthful but approachable, needs a few years but not a long slumber. 88-90
With food: Big, bold, fruity and vivid in the mouth with a long finish. A touch hotter than the Bricco Luciana but still a fine food wine. 88-89
Day 2: Intensely aromatic with fruit verging on blackberry well supported by oak spice, it’s obvious, but not quite intrusive. The fruit is quite vivid. Smooth, showing excellent integration, lively with black berry black plum, light oak spice and dried rose petal flavors. This is not my style but it is quite impressive, particularly in light of the price. It’s very pleasant to drink and the tannins are super fine with well managed wood tannins that don’t detract front he whole. Long finish, lively and elegant. 91-92
2016 Seghesio La Villa 14.5% 88pts $48
Initial impressions: Tight, slightly fruity with dark berry aromas backed up with faint suggestions of nutty oak. Quite floral with hints of white pepper and licorice adding detail to the core of dark, candied, berry fruit. Lithe on entry, gracefully in the mouth with dusty, fine grained tannins and decent acidity, but not a lot of depth on the palate. This feels like it's shutting down already. Decent length, tart red berry fruit, refreshing with some peach skin on the finale. Well balanced fine and gentle with an emerging menthol note running from front to back. Texturally it is lacy and silky. .86-88
With food: Quite smooth, turns a bit medicinal and spicy but in a pleasant way, with good finishing verve that cleanses the palate, still undeniably embryonic 87-88
Day 2: A light hint of oak spice lends some complexity to the nose, along with zesty red fruits, red plums, and dried meatiness. Round and almost voluptuous on entry, then the wood tannins dry the palate, moderate length, nice nuance, if lacking a bit of complexity with nice red plummy fruit emerging on the backend once the oak spice subsides. 87-88
2016 Mauro Molino Bricco Luciani 14% 91pts $50
Initial impressions: Sweet on the nose, confected but not fruity more floral, rose, and soil driven aromatics. There's a backing hint of wood spice lending more intensity to the savory aspects of the nose. Tight, small, and compact in the mouth but with fine inner mouth perfumes and a classic structural balance. This is quite delicate and transparent, more about what is to come than what is here now, but the feel is terrific, showing fine tannins ripeness, and some finesse. The fruit slowly emerges, candied and medicinal, black cherry toned, with a suggestion of dried blood orange peel on the rather long and finely balanced finish. Very fresh and refreshing, it’s stoic presence not withstanding. 90-92
With food: Elegant, really works well, perhaps highlighting the oak aromas a touch but this works effortlessly with the food. 89-91
Day 2: Noticeably oaky today, and less attractive because of it, though it remains appealing with tons of intense berry, dried meat, wild strawberry, and fennel aromas. Rich in the mouth and then very strict but long. The tannins are fine grained, showing just a touch of woody dryness, but this remains quite well balanced with juicy acidity and fein depth of flavor on a taut, nervous frame developing strong aromas of rosehip with air. 89-90
2016 Paolo Scavino Bricco Ambrogio 15% 88pts $48
Initial impressions: A touch oaky and toasty on the nose, which also shows dried berry fruits, a hint of dark chocolate, and some minty tobacco highlights. Smooth on entry, and fairly matte in the mouth though not without some attractive sweet-tart berry flavors melding with tobacco, toasty oak, and some dark medicinal, tobacco tones. Tannins are dry, a bit of excess wood derived tannin, but the finish is long, powerful, and full of earth and licorice. A lot of wine, lacks some charm but delivers a fair level of intensity and chewiness. 87-89
With food: Intense, well balanced, just a touch of bitterness emerges on the backend along with some lingering heat. But this is smooth and powerful. 86-88
Day 2: Rather reticent on the nose with hints of wood spice, roasted strawberry and a vague meatiness to the aromas. Smooth and rich on entry, almost sweet on the palate with a hint of dried fruit followed by rather intense acidity and very compact, layered wood and fruit tannins lending this a chewy feel. It’s impressive in its scale, if less so with it rather narrow, if intense, array of flavors, earthy, a touch of mineral, pressed flowers and some dark fruit. 86-88
2016 Bruna Grimaldi Bricco Ambrogio 15% 90pts $39
Initial impressions: Tons of floral, chalky soil, and fresh herb aromas greet the nose with a hint of underlying pepperiness and some slightly exotic frutti del bosco tones. Small on entry, spherical, well balanced, fine tannins, good acidity, juicy with red cherry fruit front and center if not terribly intense on the palate. There's a slight candied quality at play here before this yields to a long, delicate and nuanced finish with old wood, soil, and dried floral notes. A touch short perhaps, but lovely with the elegance of the vintage, and a fine, layered feel. Lots of medicinal cherry fruit lingers in the finish. 88-90,
With food: Delicate and shows a touch of heat on the finish though while some wines assert their own character while pairing well with the food this somehow intensifies the flavors of the food. Lovely showing 88-90
Day 2: Preserved blood orange, lilac, a hint of wood spice, though not toasty, and lingonberries emerge on the aromatic and graceful nose. Puts on a little weight overnight and the tannins turn firmer but remain ripe and fine grained. This is elegant, moderately long, and very fine today with fruit that has gained a slightly darker tone but remains taut and vivid over the palate. Turning more earthy with time, with good depth and follow through. A lovely example of Barolo. 90-91
2016 Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 14% 83pts $45
Initial impressions: Very candied on the nose, with lots of black cherry, candied violet and powder sugar aromas layered over toasty, sweet, oak spice. Smells terrific, for a candy or a cake. To be accurate, it is recognizable as Nebbiolo, but it's very candied. The mouth is nothing like the nose, much more delicate, even a touch dilute perhaps with a pleasant feel marred by wood tannins that clip the finish. There is an appeal here, but the less appealing aspects of this wine are definitely dominant today. Short, dry, and clumsy. 82-84
With food: Raw, abrasive even, the flavor intensity just disappears leaving behind a raw skeleton. 78-80
Day 2: Sweet, toaty oak spice, violets, and some pruniness gracing the nose. This is improved today, too tannic with late arriving wood tannins, but linear, with a roasted strawberry/ strawberry confit character. It’s got some length but finishes harshly with hints of watermelon and oak. 82-83
2016 Cordero di Montezemolo Monfalletto 14.5% 87pts $43
Initial impressions: Lightly candied fruit, spicy oak, and peppery spice come together on the nose with decent intensity but this lacks some complexity. Very broad and open in the mouth, with a certain appealing immediacy here. The tannins are plentiful but soft, and the acidity quite well measured. It’s a fine wine for immediate consumption, though it should age well over the shorter term, say 5-7 years, though there is nothing wrong with drinking this today. It’s Barolo at like 80% scale. 86-87
With Food: Smooth, broad, rich, then short and diffuse on the backend and a whisper of heat. Pleasant 86-87
Day 2: A touch raw on the nose and showing much less integrated than yesterday. More cedar and wood is present along with a reduction of fruit driven aromas. More tannic, and austere, this is now showing a touch of a serious side, though with wood tannins being more dominant. It's not unpleasant, the fruit has gotten a bit plummy, shows decent length with some hazelnuttiness on the finish along with a hint of heat. Rather one dimensional, but with decent balance save the wood tannins, and some gentle floral accent emerging with air. 86-87
Flight 4
2016 Pecchenino Barolo San Giuseppe Lot 430 14% 93pts $50
Tight but well defined aromatic grace the nose with layers of menthol, old wood, sweet black cherry, a little darker fruits, dried rose, tar, pignoli and a fine array of dried spice notes with just a hint of a touch of roasted meatiness. Tight on entry as well, though with a certain richness on the palate, and great building intensity of flavors. Structurally this is moderately powerful but well balanced with juicy acidity and abundant, though quite ripe tannins. This is lovely, fresh, complex, earthy with balsamic and underbrush cast to the taut, crystalline, berry fruit, with hints of pomegranate, all culminating in a broad, long, pure finish which displays good energy and drive. Quite a classic wine, tannic yet fruity, with just a suggestion of rusticity that I find appealing. 91-93
With food: Rich, fruity, dark and plush, compliments the food but doesn’t offer a lot of contrast. 90-91
Day 2: Rather closed down though with some swirling scents of warm, dark, plummy fruit emerge from the glass paired with lovely sweet spice and incense aromas. Some warm licorice notes add a top note, there's a fair amount going on here, ripe and lush smelling. Rich on entry, powerful and then supple with very ripe, fine grained tannins and lovely acidity supporting a blanket of almost creamy ripe fruit that remains transparent and tightens up nicely on the rather long finish. A significant streak of licorice colors this from front of palate to finish. This really is a gorgeous wine, it lacks a bit of elegance perhaps and shows some alcoholic warmth on the finale but it’s packed with flavor and has a lovely texture. 92-93
2016 S & B Borgogno Barolo Cannubi 14% 87pts $40
Fairly herbal on the nose, aromatic and with solid underlying fruit redolent of cherry and wild raspberries, paired with citrusy, orange tinged aromas, hints of lime leaf and oily herbs. Soft, broad, tannic, and a touch acrid on entry with acids that are not [prominent but are assertive textually. The tannins are a bit dry here with perfumes of wood adding some complexity in the mouth. Very crude, and fairly tannic with more citrus on the modest finish and little depth of complexity. Very austere, elegant, classic cooler vintage Cannubi presentation but it lacks the depth and elegance of the better wines of the vintage. Really very little follow through. 84-86
With food: Better with food, the minerality really comes to the fore and this cuts through the palate, cleansing and refreshing the palate, not a lot of complexity but the structure here is what’s attractive, 87-89
Day 2: Full of sweet spices today with an underlying core of red cherry fruit, some sour meat accent notes, and a fine chalky, white soil base tone. Elegant and finely textured on entry, with greater length than yesterday but it’s mostly coming from uncovered acidity leaving a juicy impression in the mouth. Starts out promisingly but fades on the midpalate leaving an austere, relatively short finish. Pleasant with potential to improve but underwhelming. 86-87
2016 Bruna Grimaldi Barolo Badarina 14.5% 91pts $48
Warm berries greet the nose followed by discrete notes of butchers wax, licorice, mace, cinnamon, and some late arriving tobacco, dark soil tones and candied black fruit elements. Supple and fairly large scaled on entry with ripe tannins and good acidity covered with deep cherry fruit that displays moments of cocoa, pine, clay, and incipient tobacco complexity. A bit chewy, definitely powerful with excellent depth and concentration, which lead to a moderately long finish graced with noble tannins and gorgeously pure if not terribly complex fruit. Turns a bit plummy with air, with dried fruit character creeping in around the ages. Just a lovely wine to drink, should be a crowd pleaser at maturity. Lots of chalky, clay character emerges with air. 88-90
With food: Dry, austere, powerful and quite noble with food, perhaps a bit harder to pair but terrific tension and cut bodes well for the table, this would be great with wild game and birds 89-91
Day 2: Sweetly fruited on the nose with incipient notes of dried mushroom, truffle, and tobacco already adding complexity. Smooth and taut on entry, with fine minerality up front, a slow start, but this builds on the plate, never becoming heavy but becoming more assertive with fine acidity lending good cut and terrific little tannins. This is almost drinkable, I would guess 3-5 years and this will be ready to go. It’s very well balanced, with a very enjoyable earthy, mineral, dark date inflected cherry fruit profile. Really captures the elegance of the vintage quite well. 90-91
2016 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Villero 14.5% 88pts $50
Lovely intensity and complexity on the nose with nuanced aromas of blood, evergreen, dried lime, red currant, and lilacs. Very finely textured, decidedly medium weight, but not lacking in intensity and the freshness is particularly appealing here. The Flavor profile is very fresh with red fruits, citrus and herbs, and this is downright playful in the mouth. Clean, precise, long and elegant on the finish with some bristly tannins, There's a gentle dried herbal character here lending complexity, but this is surprisingly bright and energetic in the mouth with lovely transparency. Decent length, Neither terribly obvious nor terribly fruity, but bright, layered, nuanced, and retaining a sense of delicacy that the best wines of the vintage retain. 89-91
With food: Delicate, fruity, though a bit dry and austere, needs more delicate food 86-88
Day 2: Dried herbs, sweet fruit, clay and something saline greets the nose followed by more clay and some violet undertones. Smooth, focused and well defined, though this lacks some length. The dusty tannins linger on the palate but the delicate fruit fades fairly quickly. A fine grained, silky wine with lovely flavors that lacks some depth and persistence. 87-89
2016 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Bussia 14.5% 92pts $45
Dark and verging on brooding on the nose with base notes of damp coffee, braised herbs, and oily wood, even some poppy seeds, supporting jammy lingonberry fruit with a blue floral top note. Moderately rich, and so well balanced, this already feels terrific in the mouth with brightness, yet no obvious acidity, firm, yet no obvious tannins, and beautifully presented fruit layer across the top. This is very fine, pitch perfect flavors of wild berries, camphor, citrus peels, subtle middle eastern spices, all build on the palate leading to a firm, austere moderately long finish with powdery, fine tannins and lingering juicy acidity all topped off with a bright pop of fruit, and a hint of alcohol, on the finale. Very fine, though if there is knock to be made here it is that the wine feels just a hint dilute in the context of the vintage. 90-92
With food: Super aromatic, elegant but rich enough, totally classic, lovely stuff, really is beautiful with tajarin. 90-92
Day 2: A bit mushroomy on the nose in a very pleasant way but also very intense and deep with layers of prune, camphor, mint, and braised herbal notes. Taut, fine grained, juicy, with less intensity perhaps than yesterday but still impressive length. There's an almost seashell quality on the backend today along with great lingonberry/cranberry fruit. This is rather glycerine rich, which accounts for the early voluptuousness, but it’s also very well structured and should age very well. Classic Barolo with real elegance. 92-93
Flight 5
2016 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe 14.5% 90pts $29
Initial impressions: The fruitiest on the nose of this group, lots of licorice framing darker cherry verging on blackberry fruit. Not the most complex, but the most intense with fine menthol freshness and a lot of licorice given this a slightly candied medical note that recalls Golia candy/medicine. Smooth and fruity up front, lots of richness from the fruit across the midpalate leading to a fairly long, and slightly warm finish rich in fruit skin like tannins. Very well balanced, juicy, not quite silky but with very fine grained tannins and juicy acidity. 88-90
With food: Fruity, sour plum, but leaner and less harmonious with a bit of heat on the back. Very perfumed but this does have a hard time with rich food, showing some powdery tannins and turning a bit angular, try next time with Carbonara. 88-90
Day 2: So fragrant. Distinctly balsamic and fresh on the nose with a really spiced character covering darkening fruit. Like walking in the woods. Smooth, medium full, and with lots of fruit on entry, then this gains some tension through the midpalate, before dropping off slightly on the modest, though pleasant and delicate finish. Almost ready to go, quite delicious with good structure, but this seems like less of a long distance runner than the other wines in this flight. 89-91
Day 3: This has lost a step on the nose, still very pleasant with well balanced fruit, floral, balsamic and spice aromas but lacking the intensity of previous days. Almost plump today, very refreshing in the mouth with a drop off on the midpalate but a fine return to the transparent purplish berry fruit, a touch plummy today and showing a hint of warmth on the finish. Lovely and fresh with excellent cut and a zesty finale. 90pts With the potential to improve a bit. Not a long term ager, drink 2022-2030
2016 Vietti Castiglione Barolo 14.5% 93pts $45
Initial impressions: Wood aromas pop on the nose followed by soil, white flowers, candied fruit, balsam, medicinal and creosote aromas. So smooth, and very juicy and bright in the mouth, as serious as the competition though with a different character. One could say this is more Burgundian. With very fine tannins, and a willowy elegance on the palate. Finishing with good length and a bit of pastry fruit on the finale. There’s really a lot of retronasal action going on with this. 89-91
With food: So well balanced, shows a hint of butteryness, lovely wine with real finesse. Would do better with some veal and risotto. 90-93
Day 2: Quite aromatic, and quite complex, and still reminding me as much of Burgundy as of Barolo with it’s fine blend of floral aromas, spice, soil tones, and sagey mint, though the light dusting of licorice tones does pull me back to Barolo. So smooth, superb integration, great fruit pops on the midpalate then floats away delicately on the moderately long finish which is grounded by plenty of dusty tannins and wood spice that is very perfumed and fine. This remains lean and wiry, but there is a fatness to the fruit which bodes well. Very young still, and while it shows great potential it’s not well knit yet. Very smooth, just a little blocky. Approachable and delicious. 90-92
Day 3: This continues to offer up assertive aromas of spice, flowers, candied berry fruit, and this fine Burgundian spice aspect that I have to assume comes from the wood, just a touch smoky. Grainy tannins slightly dominate the palate today along with a very fine minerality and this sleek texture, slightly glossy but quite diaphanous. Just a lovely, elegant, nuanced wine that stands apart both texturally and with its wispy yet assertively deep flavors. This falls slightly outside of the mainstream but is gorgeous. Drink 2023-2035 93pts
2016 Oddero Barolo 14% 91pts $38
Initial impressions: Beautiful on the nose, very classic with its presentation of tar, a touch of wood spice, wild strawberries, camphor, and underlying floral aromatics. Turns quite floral quite quickly. Broad in the mouth, with lots of ripe tannins, clean lingonberry fruit, then some wood tannin on the backend, which carries with it some sweetness as well. So floral, broad, transparent, with good length. This is somewhat chewy at the moment. 89-92
With food: nervous, then austere, lovely complete, classic wine. Shows delicacy and elegance, really lovely, needs roast goose, or pheasant. 91-93
Day 2: Old school on the nose, savory, leathery, floral, a hint of fennel seed followed by light impressions of wild strawberry and wild cherry. Quite a nice note of camphor with incipient resinous, incense like aromas. Fuller and fruitier than yesterday, fine and elegant with good length. Great acids, softening tannins which are firm but approachable. There’s some lovely fruit here, delicate and fresh, but struggling to emerge, followed by lovely mineral, and almost sweet tobacco tones on the relatively long, gently minty finish. Bright, and juicy with the impression of sweetness added by dried fruit, dried cherry flavors. 90-92
Day 3: Slightly animale and pleasantly spiced with aromas of older wood, red currant, candle wax, peonies, nuanced, detailed and rather traditional. This has gained plenty of sweetness overnight, lots of fruit up front but then this turns lightly tannic, a bit dusty as well. A bit chewy, very classic presentation with good length. Just lovely perfumes, This might always be a touch austere but it’s fresh, palate cleansing, and fairly long. Should improve. 91pts Drink 2027-2043
2016 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo 14.5% 93pts $48
Initial impressions: Deep, slightly brooding, dark and earthy with an underlying sweetness to the aromas. Cool, icy, menthol. There’s mass here but this too is quite reticent today, a touch higher perceived alcohol than the Massolino, with more weight on the palate. Nice length, very tart, sour cherry flavors, also very mineraly with lots of limestone accents through the backend and decent finish. Very elegant, and very harmonious if austere and almost severe at the moment, but with ripe, supple, if abundant tannins. 89-91
With food: Fruity, generous, big front loaded wine with a finely textured finish. Gorgeous and complete. Long too! 91-93
Day 2: Dark, brooding, earthy, prune, dried fig, honeycomb, and church incense come together seamlessly on the nose. Medium full and effortlessly well balanced, the tannins here are so fine grained, they really are well covered allowing the fruit to emerge in all its cherry, earth, mint and herb glory. This is really very good, juicy but not tart, absolutely delicious, so attractively textured, not rough in any sense but appropriately firm particularly when the tannins emerge on the finale. Intense and transparent, it doesn’t get any better than this. The nose really opens up here, gaining wonderful florality and nuance. Juicy, sour cherry fruit. 92-94
Day 3: Plum, prune, mint and violet lay above an assertive base of white soil tones. Medium full with fabulous richness that almost covers the formidable structure here. This has tightened up since yesterday, turning a bit introverted. But this is absolutely packed and harmonious, a decidedly complete example of Barolo. This should turn out stunningly. 93pts drink 2024-2045
2016 Massolino Barolo 14.5% 93pts $48
Initial impressions: Gorgeous nose, very open and bright with a combination of sour wild berries, soil, tarry minerality, incipient pipe tobacco, a hint of sweet oak spice, all wrapped in gorgeously fresh balsamic aromas. Very taut on opening, lean, salty, and minerality with great length but lacking in generosity, which was not the case with a prior bottle. Nothing is out of place here, it’s very elegant, focused, and long, but the fruit is hiding at the moment. 87-88 based mostly on the nose. Generally hard and austere with tannins that are small scaled but very firm.
With food: Wow, this is better with food and makes the food taste better. Power and elegance, the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove. Glorious and perfumed. 92-94
Day 2: Dark and succulent on the nose, musky, tarry, animale, camphor, mint, with prune and dried berry fruit, along with spicy mint and licorice top note. Wow, this is really improving, it’s not a blockbuster, but is rich, deep, rugged, classic Barolo. This is already showing some drinkability, lovely depth, tannins are ripe and well managed, There’s real nuance to come, it’s subtle today but this is complete. 92-94
Day 3: So powerful on the nose with some iron aromas emerging today along with the licorice, tar, clay, dried rose petal, and blackberry/ almost black currant fruit
Rounder now, rich, powerful, chewy but fairly smooth at the same time, with lots of ripe tannins filling the fruit on the palate. The fruit is classic cherry toned fruit, clean, transparent and showing the complexity found on the nose, leading to a long fairly powerful if slightly warm finish ending on a candied orange peel, candied berry finale. Just a step behind the Alessandria, with more power but less nuance, but ultimately almost as complete. 93pts Drink 2024 - 2040