Anteprima Toscana Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2019
Anteprima Toscana is a weeklong event allowing journalist and wine buyers to preview the wines of virtually of all Tuscany in organized tastings. I find the tastings invaluable, not only because you get to tate like wines side by side, but also because it would otherwise be impossible to taste this broady.
Having said that, these types of broad tastings have their limitations. I applaud my fellow tasters who endeavor to taste every wine on offer. I do not and frankly cannot. The Chianti Classico tasting this year featured some 475 wines, which even if spread out over the two full days would mean that I would spend approximately 2 minutes with each wine. That of course is a generous estimation not allowing for lunch, bathroom breaks, and waiting for the wines to be poured. I already have enough doubts about the efficacy of this format; though can think of none better, that I do not need to further reduce their utility by claiming to perform heroic feats of strength.
I would rather focus my energies on wines that warrant the effort, and devote a bit more time to each of those wines. Which is not to say that the wines I did not taste aren’t worth the effort, but rather simply means that out of either ignorance of understanding I have chosen other wines as being more pertinent to my audience and me.
After having said all that allow me to add one further caveat. Wine tasting is a very personal and imperfect game; ever more so when one spends only 5 minutes with a glass of wine. What follows are my impressions of those moments, snapshots with each wine and while I have confidence in my impressions of each of those glasses of wine, they are far from the complete picture. What I will say is that the wines that were truly impressive tend to remain truly impressive. They are the most complete wines, and in some but far from all, the most impressive in mass and scale, though I generally do not value mass and scale that much but in a comparative tasting these wines tend to stick out and let's face it, are generally very popular.
Wines that I have scored in the middle of my range, roughly from 85-90 points might go up and down a few points in subsequent tastings, but lack something special that the wines over 90 points offer. Wines that I scored under 85pts generally remain under 85 points due to an issue such as dilution, structural problems, lack of complexity, or observable defects.
As you might notice my scoring for these wines is different than what I usually present. The reasoning here is two-fold, and the results really no different than a more precise score offers. The precision we perceive in wine scoring is, after all, an illusion anyway. But with white wines there is a greater challenge: temperature. These wines were served cool; refreshingly so as these white wines should be served. That presents two issues for a reviewer to deal with. The first is the temperature itself, which makes the wines so fresh and juicy, but at the same time can suppress aromatics and nuance in the mouth. The second issue with temperature in this setting is that the first wine of a flight of four or six wines is fresh out of the fridge while the last wine could have been sitting at room temperature for half an hour before I would be able to get to it, giving a distinctly different impression than when served just a few degrees cooler. Which is the right review? Which is more correct? Which reflects the wine more and which offers the consumer a more useful review?
Lots of questions. Too many questions in fact and more fuel to the discussion of fallibility of wine reviews, but that of course is a discussion for another time. Today we are talking about Vernaccia di San Gimignano, a wine that too often gets lost or forgotten about by consumers. We generally can remember the town itself, famous for the towers that form it’s medieval skyline. In a way they foretold the future as we have seen the creation of the Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva category of wine and witnessed producers rushing to outdo each other once again, though today it’s over-oaking wines instead tower construction that seems to be the basis for this competition.
That may be a bit unfair. As is happening almost universally throughout Italy there is a retrenchment underway in San Gimignano when it comes to the use of aggressive oak, though judging from the wines tasted this year it is still in its early stages with plenty of wines showing aggressive oak character that obscures the character of Vernaccia. It is of course a steep learning curve, and producers must respond to the market, a market which is entirely appreciative of the standardization of white wine in particular. There is no doubt that a little vanilla can broaden the appeal of a wine, and even I can be seduced by the textural supplemness and seamlessness that quite a few of these oak aged wines offer, but at the end of the day Vernaccia should taste of Vernaccia, which is to say that floral, herbal, fruity, and mineral flavors and aromas should be dominant, the wine should be brisk, even challenging in its youth, but always refreshing and zesty!
I had forgotten how satisfying a good Vernaccia is while at the same time I was being reminded of how rare they actually are. While winemaking has come a long way in San Gimignano, the true defect most prevalent amongst wines of this tasting was too much wood, there are still many wine that while decent, fail to excite. It’s a challenge to make broad based assumptions regarding producers based on only a single tasting but it is worth pointing out that no producer in particular stood out, producing a set of wines that appealed to my palate across the board. There were however, two producers who scored multiple Excellent ratings for their wines: Tenuta Le Calcinaie, Signano, and Il Palagione. Additional wines I scored as excellent are included in the list below along with wines meriting a Very Good+ rating, all of which are worth seeking out. This is followed by tasting notes for all wines tasted, grouped in order of tasting and by producer.
One detail worth remarking on here is that the old adage producer over vintage still applies. Notwithstanding the fact that Tuscany has been graced by a string of sometimes difficult but ultimately very good vintages to work with. And yet still there are producers who consistently fail to impress, and those that consistently impress. For my money its worth focusing on the producers on the following lists and see if any are producing wines in synch with your palate rather than chasing down the latest and greatest vintage. It’s also worth noting that well made wines, even inexpensive ones, can have a multi-year lifespan if stored well, and often will benefit from another year or two in bottle, so don’t be afraid if your Vernacchia doesn’t seem to be the most recent vintage.
Wines receiving an Excellent rating:
2018 Tenuta Le Calcinaie Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2016 Tenute Le Calcinaia Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Vigna ai Sassi
2018 Signano Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2018 Signano Vernaccia di San Gimignano Poggiarelli
2018 Tenuta la Vigna Vernaccia di San Gimignano et. Verde
2018 Palagetto Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2016 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Fiore
2016 Macinatico Massai Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Massi
2016 Il Palagione Vernaccia di San Gimignano Lyra
2017 Il Palagione Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Ori
2016 Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara Vernaccia di San Gimignano L’Albereta
2018 Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2018 Fattoria Pancole Vernaccia di San Gimignano Etichetta Classica
2017 Cesani Vernaccia di San Gimignano Clamys
Wines receiving a Very Good+ rating:
2018 Fattoria Poggio Alloro Vernaccia di San Gimignano Nicchiaio
2016 Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva
2018 Fornacelle Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2017 Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara Vernaccia di San Gimignano Campo della Pieve
2018 Il Lebbio Vernaccia di San Gimignano Tropie
2017 Macinatico Massai Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2017 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Tradizione
2015 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Carato
2016 Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Antalis
2015 Palagetto Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva
2018 Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2017 Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Vigna Santa Margherita
2018 Podere Canneta Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2018 Tenuta la Vigna Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2017 Tenuta Montagnini Vernaccia di San Gimignano Assolo
All wines tasted:
Cappella Sant'Andrea
2018 Cappella Sant'Andrea Vernaccia di San Gimignano Clara Stella
Clay, slight jammy, yellow raspberry, fruity
Round, easy, juicy enough, bit simple, bitter almond finale, Good (82-84pts)
2017 Cappella Sant'Andrea Vernaccia di San Gimignano Rialto
Spicy, grassy, intense, little quinine, steely
A touch loose, well balanced, pleasant with gentle fruit and good minerality, moderately long Very Good-(86-88pts)
2016 Cappella Sant'Andrea Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Prima Luce
Intensely aromatic, barrique, honey, bitter almond, floral
Slight rich, tannic, a bit flat, weighty though not sticky, short with bacon fat finish odd, not defective but not my style, sweet pear drop fruit, Good (82-84pts)
Casa alle Vacche
2018 Casa alle Vacche Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Gently fruity, white flowers, good intensity and purity
Light, fresh, juicy, fruity but with verve, Very Good-(86-88pts)
2017 Casa alle Vacche Vernaccia di San Gimignano I Macchioni
Clay and cotton gauze, dried waxy fruit, golden apple
Smooth, slight rounded with a certain richness, a little easy going in style but with a nice interplay of sweet fruit and bitter almond/mineral notes Very Good-(86-88pts)
2016 Casa alle Vacche Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Crocus
Coffee Very Good-(86-88pts) nose, herbal, heavy, sweet, caramel
Fresh round intense but simple in the mouth, caramel and creamy accents, short, Good (82-84pts)
Casale Falchini
2017 Casale Falchini Vernaccia di San Gimignano Vigna a Solatio
Yeasty, fruity, crabapple, a touch of clay, balsamic hints
Loose, simple, fruity and fresh, easy, short, Good (82-84pts)
2016 Casale Falchini Vernaccia di San Gimignano Ab Vinea Doni
Reticent, dried orchard fruits, subtle wood, touch astringent
Good tension, well balanced, elegant fruit and mineral palate, modest finish, Good+ (84-86pts)
2015 Casale Falchini Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Vigna a Solatio
Evolved in a positive way, sweet along, golden apple
Elegant, supple, rounded, flows across the palate, mineral wrapped in baked yellow apple pear fruit, short fishing, Good+ (84-86pts)
Cesani
2018 Cesani Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Sliced apple, fruity simple, little steely edge
Little RS, still bright, lots of sweet apple and almost peachy fruit, length from RS Good (82-84pts)
2017 Cesani Vernaccia di San Gimignano Clamys
Intense, stemmy apple core, macerated herbs, bitter almond nose, gamy, sweaty, leesy
Light, fresher in the mouth, lovely inner mouth perfumes, lithe and elegant, fine persistence, very fresh and long finish, surpassing Excellent (93-94pts)
2016 Cesani Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Sanice
Spicy oak, chalk, cedar, white pepper,
Round on entry, then fairly tense, better in the mouth than Very Good-(86-88pts) nose, still restrained, fine texture but lacks some intensity Very Good-(86-88pts)
Fattoria Pancole
2018 Fattoria Pancole Vernaccia di San Gimignano Etichetta Classica
Fruity, clean, nutty, waxy, savory but not simple
Mineral +, tense, juicy, Deep, long, saline mineral Excellent (93-94pts)
2017 Fattoria Pancole Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Elisandra
Chalky, earthy, vegetal, waxy, floral
Supple, earthy, lacks brightness, elegant and fine, bit shortt, Good (82-84pts)
Fattoria Poggio Alloro
2018 Fattoria Poggio Alloro Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Sweet/tart, fruity, simple some jasmine
A bit flat in the mouth, well proportioned, a bit simple, decent length Good (82-84pts)
2018 Fattoria Poggio Alloro Vernaccia di San Gimignano Nicchiaio
Earthy, botti, almond, lots of apple fruit, ++
Mineral, tense, fine depth, good mineral finish, elegant and fine,really persistence Very Good-+(90-92pts)
2017 Fattoria Poggio Alloro Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Le Mandorle
Saline, floral, gummy, confectionary, some salted caper
Loose, low intensity, drops off, slightly sweet finish, Good-(80-82pts)
Fattorie Melini
2018 Fattorie Melini Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Pasta water, starchy, lime, floral
light, touch of rs, rounded with mineral edges, a bit frooty, commercial, Good (82-84pts)
Collina dei Venti
2018 Collina dei Venti Vernaccia di San Gimignano
A touch sour and leathery, high-toned
Bright, tart even, aggressive acids, light, pleasant, short, Good 82-84pts)
2017 Collina dei Venti Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Very floral, resinous, smells very chemical to the point of being defective. Antiseptic
Light, fairly neutral, short, Good- (80-82pts)
Fontaleoni
2018 Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Lovely, floral, aromatic and nuanced, touch of diesel, a bit cheesy
Bright, vivid Very Good-(86-88pts) palate, fine balance, nice mineral base, transparent with a light touch, long Excellent (93-94pts)
2016 Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva
Very similar to the above, a touch deeper with preserved lemon fruit, and leafy cider apple notes
Moderately rich, quite ripe but still tense, a touch easy going but complex and well balanced Very Good-+(90-92pts)
Fornacelle
2018 Fornacelle Vernaccia di San Gimignano
A touch of corn cob, almond husk, salty, slight smoky, ham
With some weight, intense, fine balance of fruity and savory, tense with riverstone minerality then a bit short Very Good-+(90-92pts)
2016 Fornacelle Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva
Tons of oak, just oaky, expensive oak, but oaky
Round, almond, oak spiced, dried apple fruit and marzipan base note, slightly tannic, then short with vanilla Good-+(84-86pts)
Guicciardini Strozzi
2018 Guicciardini Strozzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Villa Cusona
Floral, almond shell, sea shell, lime leaf
Bright, low intensity flavors, slightly pillowy texture, pear skin, along, fresh minerality, decent length with sweet peach tea finale, Good+ (84-86pts)
2018 Guicciardini Strozzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Titolato Strozzi
Floral, almond shell, saline, apple
Hightoned, tense, edgy, saline, mineral, chalky short finish, Good+ (84-86pts)
2016 Guicciardini Strozzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva
Resinous wood, jammy yellow berry golden apple , toast and cedar
Bright, fairly neutral, medium full, slightly chewy slightly tannic, short finish, mineral finish, fresh, Very Good-(86-88pts)
Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara
2018 Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara Vernaccia di San Gimignano Selvabianca
Hint of mushroom, slightly jammy fruit, hint of mint, chalky, hint of pea shoot
Smooth, moderately rich, sliced apple and nectarine fruit, fruity but simple short Good-(80-82pts)
2017 Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara Vernaccia di San Gimignano Campo della Pieve
Intense, grapefruity, Sauv Blancy, like Chilean Sauvignon Gris, gooseberry, green walnut
A touch soft, round, opulent, supple, kiwi and sweet lime Very Good-(86-88pts) palate, different, juicy finish, refreshing, attractive if atypical Very Good-+(90-92pts)
2016 Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara Vernaccia di San Gimignano L’Albereta
Cedary, bacon fatty smoky wood notes, marzipan, green fruit
Touch soft, voluptuous, creamy from the wood and age, rather intense, still assertively mineral, layered and complex, sweet almond, sweet jammy citrus fruits decent length, rich Excellent (93-94pts)
Il Lebbio
2018 Il Lebbio Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Very fruity but attractively so, fresh fruited lime, sandy soil, cider apple, quartz
Juicy,, focused, a bit sticky Very Good-(86-88pts) palate though, lots of fruit muted minerality, modest finish, Good+ (84-86pts)
2018 Il Lebbio Vernaccia di San Gimignano Tropie
Less overtly fruit, more savory, layered complexity, a bit low
Broader and leaner in the mouth mouth, nice tension, light peach skin fruit over river stones. Easy drinking though with pleasant bitter twist on long fishing, touch heat Very Good-+(90-92pts)
Il Palagione
2018 Il Palagione Vernaccia di San Gimignano Hydra
Minty, pea green, tight and assertive
Delicate, rather light Very Good-(86-88pts) palate, touch of flesh makes this a tough sticky, easy going, nice, very pleasant Good-+(84-86pts)
2016 Il Palagione Vernaccia di San Gimignano Lyra
Nut meat, old wood, a touch heavy with preserved lemon, oak influence grows
Delicate, light Very Good-(86-88pts) palate, has some wood influence but rather racy, fresh, nuanced and subtle sweet along wood tones, good length, Excellent (93-94pts) even if it would be better without the wood
2017 Il Palagione Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Ori
Lemon oil, butchers wax, sandy soil, hint of cut grass, lime
Vibrant and tense, somewhat rich but not very sticky, verges on opulent, great flavor intensity, touch simple but refreshing lime and sand flavors that are long with a bracing finish Excellent (93-94pts)
La Lastra
2018 La Lastra Vernaccia di San Gimignano
A bit herbal, dried grasses, almond husks, green plum and white pepper, smoky soil tones
Round, fruity and simple, bright and vivid, easy going style that is short Good-+(84-86pts)
Lucil Libabico
2018 Lucil Libabico Vernaccia di San Gimignano CasaLuci
Floral, citrusy, kiwi and white pepper,
Supple, a bit loose, dilute flavors, easy and short Good-+(84-86pts)
Macinatico Massai
2018 Macinatico Massai Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Very salty, capery, and floral, very capery, wow
Light at first, touch tactile, decent depth, less exciting than the nose, a bit sticky, good, but that nose! Very Good-(88-90pts)
2017 Macinatico Massai Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Ham, natural wine, earthy, prosciutto, cheesy, bruised pear, rye flour, oregano
oregano, tomato, moderately tense, slightly relaxed, great spot in evolution, complex evolved savory flavors, good length, sapid finale, rye flour finale Very Good-+(90-92pts)
2016 Macinatico Massai Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Massi
Intense, slightly botti scented, sea air, rye flour, chamomile, ginseng, waxy and slightly vegetal
Delicate, elegant, clear and finely textured, subtle flavors, light fruit, nuanced savory character, slight tannin caraway on finish, good length, zesty, super fine tannin wine for grown-ups Excellent (93-94pts)
Massimo Daldin
2018 Massimo Daldin Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Little smoky, seems woody, waxy,
Bright and juicy style, fairly fruity, too fruity and a bit sticky in the mouth, Good-+(84-86pts)
2017 Massimo Daldin Vernaccia di San Gimignano Vigne in Fiore
Fairly neutral nose, a bit saline and floral
Neutral, loose, easy going, nicely rendered fruit, simple Good-+(84-86pts)
Montenidoli
2017 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Tradizione
Very wild flower, wild herb, hint of sweat and some salumi, green fennel seed
Rich, rather powerful with real weight but clean and not sticky, pollen honeycomb flavors, short earthy finish, honeycomb Very Good-+(90-92pts) slightly tannic
2016 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Fiore
Earthy, meaty, finocchiona
Lighter, nicely rounded, gentle blending freshness and earthy flavors, clean fishing very bright and pure with lift, Excellent (93-94pts)
2015 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Carato
Green tea, a bit volatile, earthy, sweaty, slightly resinous
Supple, not lacking acid though, earthy, subtle, dried fruit, short finish, slight bitter herb and white pepper finish which is a bit sticky Very Good-+(90-92pts)
Mormoraia
2018 Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano Suavis
A bit of wood, waxy, resinous, melon fruit,
Smooth, rounded, slightly sticky, eatery fruit, sticky if short finish Good-+(84-86pts)
2016 Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Antalis
Smoky, quince+, earthy, a bit stinky, slightly green and tomatoey
Round, seamless, sleek wine that blends light waxy fruit and vanilla laced savory character, turns woody late with a hint of tannin too, not my style but still quite attractive Very Good-+(90-92pts)
Palagetto
2018 Palagetto Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Crushed stone a hint of oxidation, almond, lime, bitter melon, white flowers,
Bright, fluid, juicy with clearly rendered fruit, archetypical traditional example, transparent, salty, brisk finish with gentle bitter undertone, hint of old wood onlong finale, slightly earthy style Excellent (93-94pts)
2018 Palagetto Vernaccia di San Gimignano Santa Chiara
A touch weary, lots of cellar floor and dried fruit, banana peel aromas
Bright, really acid drive on entry, a higher act, super balance, flavors are a touch simple but this is really playful in the mouth, falls short Very Good-(86-88pts) finish Very Good-(86-88pts)
2015 Palagetto Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva
Waxy fruit, white pepper, mortadella, butchers wax, preserved lemon intense
Fluid in the mouth, a bit earthy, blanched almonds, light fruit flavors, almost delicate, good depth if slightly simple, a touch of white pepper Very Good-(86-88pts) back end, decent length Very Good-+(90-92pts)
Panizzi
2018 Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano
A touch of tomatoes, light mineral, lime leaf, delicate, talc
Bright and rich, has real power not he palate and some density, round almost lush with juicy mineral and lemon oil flavors clean, slightly short but slightly chewy finish Very Good-+(90-92pts)
2017 Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Vigna Santa Margherita
A hint of wood, oxidation, earthy, complex but lacks freshness
Less weight but still a bit rounded, blanched almonds, lime, gentle flavors earthy underlay, delicate texture, complex, long, finesse, stony finale Very Good-+(90-92pts)
2015 Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva
More floral, more oxidation as well, aromatic, waxy and savory with bay leaf and butchers wax, fennel pollen
A bit of oxidative sweetness, earthy, lacks freshness and brighten, complex and deep a=but with waxy fruit and clay flavors, short fishing Good-+(84-86pts)
Podere Canneta
2018 Podere Canneta Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Soapy florals, simple and high-toned.
Rich texture, almost chewy, good lemon oil fruit in the mouth a touch waxy but bright and distinctive with plenty of mineral underlayment, decent length, good follow through, quince and dried pear flavor a lot of wine, Slightly tannic Very Good-+(90-92pts)
Podere le Volute
2018 Podere le Volute Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Attractive, lime leaf, sliced lime, green apple aromas, fruity
Juicy, vibrant, electric, simple and fruity but a fruity bomb of acidic proportions, light mineral finish, a little suave blanc like in mouthfeel, simple but unique, with grapefruit finish, Very Good-(86-88pts)
Poderi Arcangelo
2018 Poderi Arcangelo Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Almond shell, seashells, lime, slight green herb white pepper note.
Sticky and a bit heavy in the mouth, fairly fruity but heavy and bitter Good-(80-82pts)
2018 Poderi Arcangelo Vernaccia di San Gimignano Terre del Lago
Earthy, a bit amrine and saline, some light marzipan notes
Lightly flavors good acids but also a lot of weight, a touch dull, long but again bitter fishiest actually feels pretty good Very Good-(86-88pts) palate, sage and dried grass flavors with decent fruit but something is off. Good-+(84-86pts)
2017 Poderi Arcangelo Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva per Bruno
Smoky, oak, offensively so
Light in the mouth, nutty, oaky, fruit is lurking under the sweet wood, easy dull finish Good- (80-82pts)
Poderi del Paradiso
2018 Poderi del Paradiso Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Herbal, saline, blue clay, quinine and sweat, complex and more appealing than it sounds
A touch sweet on entry, then lean and fresh, uncomplicated but bright if simple Good-+(84-86pts)
San Benedetto
2016 San Benedetto Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva
Earthy, a touch volatile, toasted notices, almond,
Rounded, hint of powdered sugar, simple sweet apple fruit, easy drinking style, decent mineral flush on modest fish Good-+(84-86pts)
San Donato
2018 San Donato Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Fruity with pears and kiwis over a hint of sand
Almost sweet, weighty, slightly bitter, monolithic, Good-+(84-86pts)
2017 San Donato Vernaccia di San Gimignano Angelica
Waxy, minty, herbal and deeply savory
Supple, rich and pillowy, deeply flavorful, almost bitter minerality, layers of flavor Very Good-(86-88pts) finish, a bit sticky though and a touch hot, Very Good-(86-88pts)
2016 San Donato Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Benedetta
Light, a bit neutral, sand, little woody base note
Delicate but with some weight, not slippery enough, lots of mouth grab and sparkle, short finish, decent character, Good-+(84-86pts)
San Quirico
2018 San Quirico Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Very aromatic, a touch of Sauvy character, little green chile along with grapefruit, white flowers, almond flower and something vaguely salt saltaire
Good depth on the palate, a combination of brightness and power, plenty of fruit, touch yeasty fruity, a touch overdone and then it's gone, Modest finish, good aromatics though, easy enough to drink Good+(84-86pts) rather juicy
Signano
2018 Signano Vernaccia di San Gimignano
River stone, citrus peel, small wild herb notes, detailed and fine if subtle
Juicy, bright, vibrant acids, lots of yellow fruit sweet/tart, refreshing and delicious if fruit driven kiwi, bitter almond and minerality not he long finish sleek, Excellent (93-94pts) mouthwatering, great blend of fruit and savory
2018 Signano Vernaccia di San Gimignano Poggiarelli
A bit sweet, starchy beans, blanched almonds, lemon oil, lemon blossom, slate
Modest richness, more elegant and toned down, a bit restrained but with plenty of salty undertones, iris inner mouth perfumes, gentle notes of citrus peel and this fishing that displays great focus an austerity with a suggestion of tannin, Dry and severe and terrific Excellent (93-94pts)
2017 Signano Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva La Ginestra
Pretty oaky, vanilla and toast, wax and fennel
Gorgeous texture, rich yet racy, flavors of wood cover the more fruit driven base notes, short finish of wood spice Very Good-(86-88pts)
Tenuta la Vigna
2018 Tenuta la Vigna Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Lovely fruited nose, a hint of roast pork, preserved lemons, sage, pineapple
Bright, juicy yet restrained, subtle clear and deep, saline, elegant and refined, very classy touch short, Very Good-+(90-92pts)
2018 Tenuta la Vigna Vernaccia di San Gimignano et. Verde
Pineapple again, fruity but also chalky and with dried floral notes, subtle but penetrating
Elegant, restrained, lovely fresh fruit on the palate, suggestions of sweetness. slightly waxy, deep vinous, mineral tinged and pine nut finish, lovely bracing wine Excellent (93-94pts)
2017 Tenuta la Vigna Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Lean, tight, hint of powdered sugar, little stone and golden raspberry
Lean, relaxed savory style, dried herbs, slight nuttiness, good depth, not much fruit and a bit short Very Good-(86-88pts)
Tenuta Le Calcinaie
2018 Tenuta Le Calcinaie Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Intense, lightly spicy, very bright fruit, slightly creamy/leesy pineapple and green apple
Slight richness up front, slight tannic impression, lovely mouth grab, juicy, ripe fruit, ears and green apple, jolly rancher green apple skin, lovely texture dusty minerality under, hint of bitterness on medium length, taut, focused, finish Excellent (93-94pts)
2016 Tenute Le Calcinaia Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Vigna ai Sassi
Low oak notes, waxy, a little buttery/creamy, yellow fruit, candied pineapple, spicy white pepper
Relaxed, more caressing and certainly richer, lovely richness here with flavors that are subtle and savory dried fruit a touch of fig, floral inner mouth perfumes, dusty tannins, long fishes all limestone real persistence to the fruit Excellent (93-94pts)
Tenuta Montagnini
2017 Tenuta Montagnini Vernaccia di San Gimignano Frammenti
A bit smoky and a little oxidized, with dried fruit aromas,
Light fresh and vibrant in the mouth with tart fruit flavors that still seem to lean towards over-ripeness, apricots, short finish, touch of tannin, Very Good-(86-88pts)
2017 Tenuta Montagnini Vernaccia di San Gimignano Assolo
Light nose, yellow kiwi, green apple, sandy salty soil
Light and elegant, vibrant juicy style, delicate flavors, nice mineral on back end, refreshing, good length, Very Good+(90-92pts)
Teruzzi
2018 Teruzzi Isola Bianca Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Very fragrant, touch frooty perhaps, quite floral with gentle lemon goal accents,
vibrant and lean but with some stickiness on the palate, some blanched almond and stone, then footy with a short finish Good+(84-86pts)
Tollena
2018 Tollena Lunario Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Mortadella, pork fat white pepper, a touch sulfured, heather, caramel almonds mortadella!
Loose but large scaled, good acids, a touch lean flavorless, interesting, spicy, but not terribly pleasurable, decent length, intense, but still not giving pleasure to me Good-(80-82pts)
2015 Tollena Riserva Vernaccia di San Gimignano Signorina Vittoria
Overtly oaky, herbal and seaweed,
Lighter palate than the nose suggestions, indistinct, lovely texture, focused and faceted, slightly sweet almond palate, tannic which clips the finish Good-(80-82pts)
Having said that, these types of broad tastings have their limitations. I applaud my fellow tasters who endeavor to taste every wine on offer. I do not and frankly cannot. The Chianti Classico tasting this year featured some 475 wines, which even if spread out over the two full days would mean that I would spend approximately 2 minutes with each wine. That of course is a generous estimation not allowing for lunch, bathroom breaks, and waiting for the wines to be poured. I already have enough doubts about the efficacy of this format; though can think of none better, that I do not need to further reduce their utility by claiming to perform heroic feats of strength.
I would rather focus my energies on wines that warrant the effort, and devote a bit more time to each of those wines. Which is not to say that the wines I did not taste aren’t worth the effort, but rather simply means that out of either ignorance of understanding I have chosen other wines as being more pertinent to my audience and me.
After having said all that allow me to add one further caveat. Wine tasting is a very personal and imperfect game; ever more so when one spends only 5 minutes with a glass of wine. What follows are my impressions of those moments, snapshots with each wine and while I have confidence in my impressions of each of those glasses of wine, they are far from the complete picture. What I will say is that the wines that were truly impressive tend to remain truly impressive. They are the most complete wines, and in some but far from all, the most impressive in mass and scale, though I generally do not value mass and scale that much but in a comparative tasting these wines tend to stick out and let's face it, are generally very popular.
Wines that I have scored in the middle of my range, roughly from 85-90 points might go up and down a few points in subsequent tastings, but lack something special that the wines over 90 points offer. Wines that I scored under 85pts generally remain under 85 points due to an issue such as dilution, structural problems, lack of complexity, or observable defects.
As you might notice my scoring for these wines is different than what I usually present. The reasoning here is two-fold, and the results really no different than a more precise score offers. The precision we perceive in wine scoring is, after all, an illusion anyway. But with white wines there is a greater challenge: temperature. These wines were served cool; refreshingly so as these white wines should be served. That presents two issues for a reviewer to deal with. The first is the temperature itself, which makes the wines so fresh and juicy, but at the same time can suppress aromatics and nuance in the mouth. The second issue with temperature in this setting is that the first wine of a flight of four or six wines is fresh out of the fridge while the last wine could have been sitting at room temperature for half an hour before I would be able to get to it, giving a distinctly different impression than when served just a few degrees cooler. Which is the right review? Which is more correct? Which reflects the wine more and which offers the consumer a more useful review?
Lots of questions. Too many questions in fact and more fuel to the discussion of fallibility of wine reviews, but that of course is a discussion for another time. Today we are talking about Vernaccia di San Gimignano, a wine that too often gets lost or forgotten about by consumers. We generally can remember the town itself, famous for the towers that form it’s medieval skyline. In a way they foretold the future as we have seen the creation of the Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva category of wine and witnessed producers rushing to outdo each other once again, though today it’s over-oaking wines instead tower construction that seems to be the basis for this competition.
That may be a bit unfair. As is happening almost universally throughout Italy there is a retrenchment underway in San Gimignano when it comes to the use of aggressive oak, though judging from the wines tasted this year it is still in its early stages with plenty of wines showing aggressive oak character that obscures the character of Vernaccia. It is of course a steep learning curve, and producers must respond to the market, a market which is entirely appreciative of the standardization of white wine in particular. There is no doubt that a little vanilla can broaden the appeal of a wine, and even I can be seduced by the textural supplemness and seamlessness that quite a few of these oak aged wines offer, but at the end of the day Vernaccia should taste of Vernaccia, which is to say that floral, herbal, fruity, and mineral flavors and aromas should be dominant, the wine should be brisk, even challenging in its youth, but always refreshing and zesty!
I had forgotten how satisfying a good Vernaccia is while at the same time I was being reminded of how rare they actually are. While winemaking has come a long way in San Gimignano, the true defect most prevalent amongst wines of this tasting was too much wood, there are still many wine that while decent, fail to excite. It’s a challenge to make broad based assumptions regarding producers based on only a single tasting but it is worth pointing out that no producer in particular stood out, producing a set of wines that appealed to my palate across the board. There were however, two producers who scored multiple Excellent ratings for their wines: Tenuta Le Calcinaie, Signano, and Il Palagione. Additional wines I scored as excellent are included in the list below along with wines meriting a Very Good+ rating, all of which are worth seeking out. This is followed by tasting notes for all wines tasted, grouped in order of tasting and by producer.
One detail worth remarking on here is that the old adage producer over vintage still applies. Notwithstanding the fact that Tuscany has been graced by a string of sometimes difficult but ultimately very good vintages to work with. And yet still there are producers who consistently fail to impress, and those that consistently impress. For my money its worth focusing on the producers on the following lists and see if any are producing wines in synch with your palate rather than chasing down the latest and greatest vintage. It’s also worth noting that well made wines, even inexpensive ones, can have a multi-year lifespan if stored well, and often will benefit from another year or two in bottle, so don’t be afraid if your Vernacchia doesn’t seem to be the most recent vintage.
Wines receiving an Excellent rating:
2018 Tenuta Le Calcinaie Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2016 Tenute Le Calcinaia Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Vigna ai Sassi
2018 Signano Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2018 Signano Vernaccia di San Gimignano Poggiarelli
2018 Tenuta la Vigna Vernaccia di San Gimignano et. Verde
2018 Palagetto Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2016 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Fiore
2016 Macinatico Massai Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Massi
2016 Il Palagione Vernaccia di San Gimignano Lyra
2017 Il Palagione Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Ori
2016 Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara Vernaccia di San Gimignano L’Albereta
2018 Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2018 Fattoria Pancole Vernaccia di San Gimignano Etichetta Classica
2017 Cesani Vernaccia di San Gimignano Clamys
Wines receiving a Very Good+ rating:
2018 Fattoria Poggio Alloro Vernaccia di San Gimignano Nicchiaio
2016 Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva
2018 Fornacelle Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2017 Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara Vernaccia di San Gimignano Campo della Pieve
2018 Il Lebbio Vernaccia di San Gimignano Tropie
2017 Macinatico Massai Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2017 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Tradizione
2015 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Carato
2016 Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Antalis
2015 Palagetto Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva
2018 Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2017 Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Vigna Santa Margherita
2018 Podere Canneta Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2018 Tenuta la Vigna Vernaccia di San Gimignano
2017 Tenuta Montagnini Vernaccia di San Gimignano Assolo
All wines tasted:
Cappella Sant'Andrea
2018 Cappella Sant'Andrea Vernaccia di San Gimignano Clara Stella
Clay, slight jammy, yellow raspberry, fruity
Round, easy, juicy enough, bit simple, bitter almond finale, Good (82-84pts)
2017 Cappella Sant'Andrea Vernaccia di San Gimignano Rialto
Spicy, grassy, intense, little quinine, steely
A touch loose, well balanced, pleasant with gentle fruit and good minerality, moderately long Very Good-(86-88pts)
2016 Cappella Sant'Andrea Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Prima Luce
Intensely aromatic, barrique, honey, bitter almond, floral
Slight rich, tannic, a bit flat, weighty though not sticky, short with bacon fat finish odd, not defective but not my style, sweet pear drop fruit, Good (82-84pts)
Casa alle Vacche
2018 Casa alle Vacche Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Gently fruity, white flowers, good intensity and purity
Light, fresh, juicy, fruity but with verve, Very Good-(86-88pts)
2017 Casa alle Vacche Vernaccia di San Gimignano I Macchioni
Clay and cotton gauze, dried waxy fruit, golden apple
Smooth, slight rounded with a certain richness, a little easy going in style but with a nice interplay of sweet fruit and bitter almond/mineral notes Very Good-(86-88pts)
2016 Casa alle Vacche Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Crocus
Coffee Very Good-(86-88pts) nose, herbal, heavy, sweet, caramel
Fresh round intense but simple in the mouth, caramel and creamy accents, short, Good (82-84pts)
Casale Falchini
2017 Casale Falchini Vernaccia di San Gimignano Vigna a Solatio
Yeasty, fruity, crabapple, a touch of clay, balsamic hints
Loose, simple, fruity and fresh, easy, short, Good (82-84pts)
2016 Casale Falchini Vernaccia di San Gimignano Ab Vinea Doni
Reticent, dried orchard fruits, subtle wood, touch astringent
Good tension, well balanced, elegant fruit and mineral palate, modest finish, Good+ (84-86pts)
2015 Casale Falchini Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Vigna a Solatio
Evolved in a positive way, sweet along, golden apple
Elegant, supple, rounded, flows across the palate, mineral wrapped in baked yellow apple pear fruit, short fishing, Good+ (84-86pts)
Cesani
2018 Cesani Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Sliced apple, fruity simple, little steely edge
Little RS, still bright, lots of sweet apple and almost peachy fruit, length from RS Good (82-84pts)
2017 Cesani Vernaccia di San Gimignano Clamys
Intense, stemmy apple core, macerated herbs, bitter almond nose, gamy, sweaty, leesy
Light, fresher in the mouth, lovely inner mouth perfumes, lithe and elegant, fine persistence, very fresh and long finish, surpassing Excellent (93-94pts)
2016 Cesani Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Sanice
Spicy oak, chalk, cedar, white pepper,
Round on entry, then fairly tense, better in the mouth than Very Good-(86-88pts) nose, still restrained, fine texture but lacks some intensity Very Good-(86-88pts)
Fattoria Pancole
2018 Fattoria Pancole Vernaccia di San Gimignano Etichetta Classica
Fruity, clean, nutty, waxy, savory but not simple
Mineral +, tense, juicy, Deep, long, saline mineral Excellent (93-94pts)
2017 Fattoria Pancole Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Elisandra
Chalky, earthy, vegetal, waxy, floral
Supple, earthy, lacks brightness, elegant and fine, bit shortt, Good (82-84pts)
Fattoria Poggio Alloro
2018 Fattoria Poggio Alloro Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Sweet/tart, fruity, simple some jasmine
A bit flat in the mouth, well proportioned, a bit simple, decent length Good (82-84pts)
2018 Fattoria Poggio Alloro Vernaccia di San Gimignano Nicchiaio
Earthy, botti, almond, lots of apple fruit, ++
Mineral, tense, fine depth, good mineral finish, elegant and fine,really persistence Very Good-+(90-92pts)
2017 Fattoria Poggio Alloro Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Le Mandorle
Saline, floral, gummy, confectionary, some salted caper
Loose, low intensity, drops off, slightly sweet finish, Good-(80-82pts)
Fattorie Melini
2018 Fattorie Melini Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Pasta water, starchy, lime, floral
light, touch of rs, rounded with mineral edges, a bit frooty, commercial, Good (82-84pts)
Collina dei Venti
2018 Collina dei Venti Vernaccia di San Gimignano
A touch sour and leathery, high-toned
Bright, tart even, aggressive acids, light, pleasant, short, Good 82-84pts)
2017 Collina dei Venti Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Very floral, resinous, smells very chemical to the point of being defective. Antiseptic
Light, fairly neutral, short, Good- (80-82pts)
Fontaleoni
2018 Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Lovely, floral, aromatic and nuanced, touch of diesel, a bit cheesy
Bright, vivid Very Good-(86-88pts) palate, fine balance, nice mineral base, transparent with a light touch, long Excellent (93-94pts)
2016 Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva
Very similar to the above, a touch deeper with preserved lemon fruit, and leafy cider apple notes
Moderately rich, quite ripe but still tense, a touch easy going but complex and well balanced Very Good-+(90-92pts)
Fornacelle
2018 Fornacelle Vernaccia di San Gimignano
A touch of corn cob, almond husk, salty, slight smoky, ham
With some weight, intense, fine balance of fruity and savory, tense with riverstone minerality then a bit short Very Good-+(90-92pts)
2016 Fornacelle Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva
Tons of oak, just oaky, expensive oak, but oaky
Round, almond, oak spiced, dried apple fruit and marzipan base note, slightly tannic, then short with vanilla Good-+(84-86pts)
Guicciardini Strozzi
2018 Guicciardini Strozzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Villa Cusona
Floral, almond shell, sea shell, lime leaf
Bright, low intensity flavors, slightly pillowy texture, pear skin, along, fresh minerality, decent length with sweet peach tea finale, Good+ (84-86pts)
2018 Guicciardini Strozzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Titolato Strozzi
Floral, almond shell, saline, apple
Hightoned, tense, edgy, saline, mineral, chalky short finish, Good+ (84-86pts)
2016 Guicciardini Strozzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva
Resinous wood, jammy yellow berry golden apple , toast and cedar
Bright, fairly neutral, medium full, slightly chewy slightly tannic, short finish, mineral finish, fresh, Very Good-(86-88pts)
Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara
2018 Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara Vernaccia di San Gimignano Selvabianca
Hint of mushroom, slightly jammy fruit, hint of mint, chalky, hint of pea shoot
Smooth, moderately rich, sliced apple and nectarine fruit, fruity but simple short Good-(80-82pts)
2017 Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara Vernaccia di San Gimignano Campo della Pieve
Intense, grapefruity, Sauv Blancy, like Chilean Sauvignon Gris, gooseberry, green walnut
A touch soft, round, opulent, supple, kiwi and sweet lime Very Good-(86-88pts) palate, different, juicy finish, refreshing, attractive if atypical Very Good-+(90-92pts)
2016 Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara Vernaccia di San Gimignano L’Albereta
Cedary, bacon fatty smoky wood notes, marzipan, green fruit
Touch soft, voluptuous, creamy from the wood and age, rather intense, still assertively mineral, layered and complex, sweet almond, sweet jammy citrus fruits decent length, rich Excellent (93-94pts)
Il Lebbio
2018 Il Lebbio Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Very fruity but attractively so, fresh fruited lime, sandy soil, cider apple, quartz
Juicy,, focused, a bit sticky Very Good-(86-88pts) palate though, lots of fruit muted minerality, modest finish, Good+ (84-86pts)
2018 Il Lebbio Vernaccia di San Gimignano Tropie
Less overtly fruit, more savory, layered complexity, a bit low
Broader and leaner in the mouth mouth, nice tension, light peach skin fruit over river stones. Easy drinking though with pleasant bitter twist on long fishing, touch heat Very Good-+(90-92pts)
Il Palagione
2018 Il Palagione Vernaccia di San Gimignano Hydra
Minty, pea green, tight and assertive
Delicate, rather light Very Good-(86-88pts) palate, touch of flesh makes this a tough sticky, easy going, nice, very pleasant Good-+(84-86pts)
2016 Il Palagione Vernaccia di San Gimignano Lyra
Nut meat, old wood, a touch heavy with preserved lemon, oak influence grows
Delicate, light Very Good-(86-88pts) palate, has some wood influence but rather racy, fresh, nuanced and subtle sweet along wood tones, good length, Excellent (93-94pts) even if it would be better without the wood
2017 Il Palagione Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Ori
Lemon oil, butchers wax, sandy soil, hint of cut grass, lime
Vibrant and tense, somewhat rich but not very sticky, verges on opulent, great flavor intensity, touch simple but refreshing lime and sand flavors that are long with a bracing finish Excellent (93-94pts)
La Lastra
2018 La Lastra Vernaccia di San Gimignano
A bit herbal, dried grasses, almond husks, green plum and white pepper, smoky soil tones
Round, fruity and simple, bright and vivid, easy going style that is short Good-+(84-86pts)
Lucil Libabico
2018 Lucil Libabico Vernaccia di San Gimignano CasaLuci
Floral, citrusy, kiwi and white pepper,
Supple, a bit loose, dilute flavors, easy and short Good-+(84-86pts)
Macinatico Massai
2018 Macinatico Massai Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Very salty, capery, and floral, very capery, wow
Light at first, touch tactile, decent depth, less exciting than the nose, a bit sticky, good, but that nose! Very Good-(88-90pts)
2017 Macinatico Massai Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Ham, natural wine, earthy, prosciutto, cheesy, bruised pear, rye flour, oregano
oregano, tomato, moderately tense, slightly relaxed, great spot in evolution, complex evolved savory flavors, good length, sapid finale, rye flour finale Very Good-+(90-92pts)
2016 Macinatico Massai Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Massi
Intense, slightly botti scented, sea air, rye flour, chamomile, ginseng, waxy and slightly vegetal
Delicate, elegant, clear and finely textured, subtle flavors, light fruit, nuanced savory character, slight tannin caraway on finish, good length, zesty, super fine tannin wine for grown-ups Excellent (93-94pts)
Massimo Daldin
2018 Massimo Daldin Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Little smoky, seems woody, waxy,
Bright and juicy style, fairly fruity, too fruity and a bit sticky in the mouth, Good-+(84-86pts)
2017 Massimo Daldin Vernaccia di San Gimignano Vigne in Fiore
Fairly neutral nose, a bit saline and floral
Neutral, loose, easy going, nicely rendered fruit, simple Good-+(84-86pts)
Montenidoli
2017 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Tradizione
Very wild flower, wild herb, hint of sweat and some salumi, green fennel seed
Rich, rather powerful with real weight but clean and not sticky, pollen honeycomb flavors, short earthy finish, honeycomb Very Good-+(90-92pts) slightly tannic
2016 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Fiore
Earthy, meaty, finocchiona
Lighter, nicely rounded, gentle blending freshness and earthy flavors, clean fishing very bright and pure with lift, Excellent (93-94pts)
2015 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Carato
Green tea, a bit volatile, earthy, sweaty, slightly resinous
Supple, not lacking acid though, earthy, subtle, dried fruit, short finish, slight bitter herb and white pepper finish which is a bit sticky Very Good-+(90-92pts)
Mormoraia
2018 Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano Suavis
A bit of wood, waxy, resinous, melon fruit,
Smooth, rounded, slightly sticky, eatery fruit, sticky if short finish Good-+(84-86pts)
2016 Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Antalis
Smoky, quince+, earthy, a bit stinky, slightly green and tomatoey
Round, seamless, sleek wine that blends light waxy fruit and vanilla laced savory character, turns woody late with a hint of tannin too, not my style but still quite attractive Very Good-+(90-92pts)
Palagetto
2018 Palagetto Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Crushed stone a hint of oxidation, almond, lime, bitter melon, white flowers,
Bright, fluid, juicy with clearly rendered fruit, archetypical traditional example, transparent, salty, brisk finish with gentle bitter undertone, hint of old wood onlong finale, slightly earthy style Excellent (93-94pts)
2018 Palagetto Vernaccia di San Gimignano Santa Chiara
A touch weary, lots of cellar floor and dried fruit, banana peel aromas
Bright, really acid drive on entry, a higher act, super balance, flavors are a touch simple but this is really playful in the mouth, falls short Very Good-(86-88pts) finish Very Good-(86-88pts)
2015 Palagetto Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva
Waxy fruit, white pepper, mortadella, butchers wax, preserved lemon intense
Fluid in the mouth, a bit earthy, blanched almonds, light fruit flavors, almost delicate, good depth if slightly simple, a touch of white pepper Very Good-(86-88pts) back end, decent length Very Good-+(90-92pts)
Panizzi
2018 Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano
A touch of tomatoes, light mineral, lime leaf, delicate, talc
Bright and rich, has real power not he palate and some density, round almost lush with juicy mineral and lemon oil flavors clean, slightly short but slightly chewy finish Very Good-+(90-92pts)
2017 Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Vigna Santa Margherita
A hint of wood, oxidation, earthy, complex but lacks freshness
Less weight but still a bit rounded, blanched almonds, lime, gentle flavors earthy underlay, delicate texture, complex, long, finesse, stony finale Very Good-+(90-92pts)
2015 Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva
More floral, more oxidation as well, aromatic, waxy and savory with bay leaf and butchers wax, fennel pollen
A bit of oxidative sweetness, earthy, lacks freshness and brighten, complex and deep a=but with waxy fruit and clay flavors, short fishing Good-+(84-86pts)
Podere Canneta
2018 Podere Canneta Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Soapy florals, simple and high-toned.
Rich texture, almost chewy, good lemon oil fruit in the mouth a touch waxy but bright and distinctive with plenty of mineral underlayment, decent length, good follow through, quince and dried pear flavor a lot of wine, Slightly tannic Very Good-+(90-92pts)
Podere le Volute
2018 Podere le Volute Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Attractive, lime leaf, sliced lime, green apple aromas, fruity
Juicy, vibrant, electric, simple and fruity but a fruity bomb of acidic proportions, light mineral finish, a little suave blanc like in mouthfeel, simple but unique, with grapefruit finish, Very Good-(86-88pts)
Poderi Arcangelo
2018 Poderi Arcangelo Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Almond shell, seashells, lime, slight green herb white pepper note.
Sticky and a bit heavy in the mouth, fairly fruity but heavy and bitter Good-(80-82pts)
2018 Poderi Arcangelo Vernaccia di San Gimignano Terre del Lago
Earthy, a bit amrine and saline, some light marzipan notes
Lightly flavors good acids but also a lot of weight, a touch dull, long but again bitter fishiest actually feels pretty good Very Good-(86-88pts) palate, sage and dried grass flavors with decent fruit but something is off. Good-+(84-86pts)
2017 Poderi Arcangelo Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva per Bruno
Smoky, oak, offensively so
Light in the mouth, nutty, oaky, fruit is lurking under the sweet wood, easy dull finish Good- (80-82pts)
Poderi del Paradiso
2018 Poderi del Paradiso Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Herbal, saline, blue clay, quinine and sweat, complex and more appealing than it sounds
A touch sweet on entry, then lean and fresh, uncomplicated but bright if simple Good-+(84-86pts)
San Benedetto
2016 San Benedetto Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva
Earthy, a touch volatile, toasted notices, almond,
Rounded, hint of powdered sugar, simple sweet apple fruit, easy drinking style, decent mineral flush on modest fish Good-+(84-86pts)
San Donato
2018 San Donato Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Fruity with pears and kiwis over a hint of sand
Almost sweet, weighty, slightly bitter, monolithic, Good-+(84-86pts)
2017 San Donato Vernaccia di San Gimignano Angelica
Waxy, minty, herbal and deeply savory
Supple, rich and pillowy, deeply flavorful, almost bitter minerality, layers of flavor Very Good-(86-88pts) finish, a bit sticky though and a touch hot, Very Good-(86-88pts)
2016 San Donato Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Benedetta
Light, a bit neutral, sand, little woody base note
Delicate but with some weight, not slippery enough, lots of mouth grab and sparkle, short finish, decent character, Good-+(84-86pts)
San Quirico
2018 San Quirico Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Very aromatic, a touch of Sauvy character, little green chile along with grapefruit, white flowers, almond flower and something vaguely salt saltaire
Good depth on the palate, a combination of brightness and power, plenty of fruit, touch yeasty fruity, a touch overdone and then it's gone, Modest finish, good aromatics though, easy enough to drink Good+(84-86pts) rather juicy
Signano
2018 Signano Vernaccia di San Gimignano
River stone, citrus peel, small wild herb notes, detailed and fine if subtle
Juicy, bright, vibrant acids, lots of yellow fruit sweet/tart, refreshing and delicious if fruit driven kiwi, bitter almond and minerality not he long finish sleek, Excellent (93-94pts) mouthwatering, great blend of fruit and savory
2018 Signano Vernaccia di San Gimignano Poggiarelli
A bit sweet, starchy beans, blanched almonds, lemon oil, lemon blossom, slate
Modest richness, more elegant and toned down, a bit restrained but with plenty of salty undertones, iris inner mouth perfumes, gentle notes of citrus peel and this fishing that displays great focus an austerity with a suggestion of tannin, Dry and severe and terrific Excellent (93-94pts)
2017 Signano Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva La Ginestra
Pretty oaky, vanilla and toast, wax and fennel
Gorgeous texture, rich yet racy, flavors of wood cover the more fruit driven base notes, short finish of wood spice Very Good-(86-88pts)
Tenuta la Vigna
2018 Tenuta la Vigna Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Lovely fruited nose, a hint of roast pork, preserved lemons, sage, pineapple
Bright, juicy yet restrained, subtle clear and deep, saline, elegant and refined, very classy touch short, Very Good-+(90-92pts)
2018 Tenuta la Vigna Vernaccia di San Gimignano et. Verde
Pineapple again, fruity but also chalky and with dried floral notes, subtle but penetrating
Elegant, restrained, lovely fresh fruit on the palate, suggestions of sweetness. slightly waxy, deep vinous, mineral tinged and pine nut finish, lovely bracing wine Excellent (93-94pts)
2017 Tenuta la Vigna Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Lean, tight, hint of powdered sugar, little stone and golden raspberry
Lean, relaxed savory style, dried herbs, slight nuttiness, good depth, not much fruit and a bit short Very Good-(86-88pts)
Tenuta Le Calcinaie
2018 Tenuta Le Calcinaie Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Intense, lightly spicy, very bright fruit, slightly creamy/leesy pineapple and green apple
Slight richness up front, slight tannic impression, lovely mouth grab, juicy, ripe fruit, ears and green apple, jolly rancher green apple skin, lovely texture dusty minerality under, hint of bitterness on medium length, taut, focused, finish Excellent (93-94pts)
2016 Tenute Le Calcinaia Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva Vigna ai Sassi
Low oak notes, waxy, a little buttery/creamy, yellow fruit, candied pineapple, spicy white pepper
Relaxed, more caressing and certainly richer, lovely richness here with flavors that are subtle and savory dried fruit a touch of fig, floral inner mouth perfumes, dusty tannins, long fishes all limestone real persistence to the fruit Excellent (93-94pts)
Tenuta Montagnini
2017 Tenuta Montagnini Vernaccia di San Gimignano Frammenti
A bit smoky and a little oxidized, with dried fruit aromas,
Light fresh and vibrant in the mouth with tart fruit flavors that still seem to lean towards over-ripeness, apricots, short finish, touch of tannin, Very Good-(86-88pts)
2017 Tenuta Montagnini Vernaccia di San Gimignano Assolo
Light nose, yellow kiwi, green apple, sandy salty soil
Light and elegant, vibrant juicy style, delicate flavors, nice mineral on back end, refreshing, good length, Very Good+(90-92pts)
Teruzzi
2018 Teruzzi Isola Bianca Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Very fragrant, touch frooty perhaps, quite floral with gentle lemon goal accents,
vibrant and lean but with some stickiness on the palate, some blanched almond and stone, then footy with a short finish Good+(84-86pts)
Tollena
2018 Tollena Lunario Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Mortadella, pork fat white pepper, a touch sulfured, heather, caramel almonds mortadella!
Loose but large scaled, good acids, a touch lean flavorless, interesting, spicy, but not terribly pleasurable, decent length, intense, but still not giving pleasure to me Good-(80-82pts)
2015 Tollena Riserva Vernaccia di San Gimignano Signorina Vittoria
Overtly oaky, herbal and seaweed,
Lighter palate than the nose suggestions, indistinct, lovely texture, focused and faceted, slightly sweet almond palate, tannic which clips the finish Good-(80-82pts)