Accomasso, Lorenzo
This year marks Lorenzo’s 70th vintage, 70 years since he started working with his father in the winery, and 60 years since they were able to buy their own vineyards. Admittedly, that is certainly an achievement worth some renown, and with his new found fame Lorenzo is sure to keep working his vines even when faced with the ever escalating values of his vineyards. During these 70 years little has changed, though there have been several milestones that are worth noting.
The first occurred in 1974 when, following the dismal harvests of 1972 and 1973 Lorenzo begin green harvesting; which was revolutionary at the time. At roughly the same time he introduced steam cleaning in the cellar. The two actions combined to create a more concentrated and cleaner wine than was typically the case. Downright modernistic for the age! The wines of this era, roughly 1974- 1999 remain as a testament to his commitment during this period, and not in small part due to the elevage those wines underwent. As was often seen at that time, Lorenzo aged his wine first in botte, for 3 years, followed by an additional 3 years in 12.5 liter quarter brenta bottles, of which he had upwards of 300 at the time. This ageing in large format glass seems to freeze the wines, lending them a clarity and accentuating their crystalline nature in way that wood and small bottle ageing simply can not match. If you are fortunate to try wines from this period you may very well marvel at how well they are preserved and the clarity they continue to offer.
Somewhere along the line, roughly at the turn of the millennium, Lorenzo did away with the demijohn ageing, according to him simply because he no longer enjoyed that phase of the work. Today the Barolo tend to spend roughly 3 years in wood, followed by 3 years in concrete, though the riservas are only bottled after 7 years, giving them an extra year in concrete. There are still a few demijohns bottled as well, overflow from the transfer between wood and concrete with no doubt a dash on sentimentality thrown in for good measure.
Fermentations remain among the longest in the region, averaging between 50 and 60 days, though in no case less than 40 in a decent year, and no less than 35 in any event. In a good year total production of Barolo might be about 10,000 bottles, a drop in the ocean of Barolo, not to mention world class wines.
The Barolo comes primarily from two parcels separated by some 500 meters: Rocche d’Annunziata, which enjoys a full southern exposure, and Rocchette facing a more easterly direction, with Lorenzo preferring the later, feeling that it has a more unique and identifiable personality due to the exposition which catches sun from 9am until the very latest rays of the setting sun. There are also vines planted in Annunziata just behind the winery and Accomasso home. Rocchette is planted with three varieties of Lampia and a little Michet which Lorenzo feels is good to have in moderation, as it requires more attention for a lower production with small clusters. One can recognize Rocchette as far way as Monforte due to the single oak tree Lorenzo left in the vineyard when he last replanted it in 2009. The Rochette and Rocche are generally bottled separately, though a straight Riserva has also been recently produced in 2008, 2009, and 2010.
I love this story, and admire Lorenzo for what he has done. His wines are variable, and intriguing at the very least. They certainly standout as it’s a challenge to find traditional producers in La Morra, though it seems more are adopting the old ways each year. There is both variability and volatility to be found in these wines, but at the same time the Accomasso wines really do express something unique and have that trait rarely seen outside of Nebbiolo based wines: the ability to brush aside dirty aromas with air and blossom into something special.
There have also been Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo and even a Vino Rosso produced here, though I have never actually seen a bottle of the Nebbiolo. The Dolcetto was last produced in 2010, while the Barbera Pochi Filagn - few vines in dialect - was recently available at the winery with the 2012 vintage being sold in 2018. Another anomaly in today’s world!
In the years since my first visit to Lorenzo Accomasso’s cellar in the frazione of la Morra known as Annunziata there have been some changes, though little that one can see. The change, as it were, is more in the appreciation of these wines and the cult like status they have attained. That first visit we were able to pry a trunkful of cases from Lorenzo, all at favorable prices. Today things are different indeed. Barolo in know 55 euros a bottle and very hard to come by, though I can not lament the allocation that i have earned.
What changed? It’s difficult to suss out, though I feel that i am at least minimally responsible, having made the introduction to the sommelier and wine taliban world that now covet these wines, perhaps beyond their relative value. Lorenzo was a pioneer of sorts in the Langhe, and remains a steadfast figure producing what he wants to produce, which is to say classic, traditional wines that express a time as much as a place.
The first occurred in 1974 when, following the dismal harvests of 1972 and 1973 Lorenzo begin green harvesting; which was revolutionary at the time. At roughly the same time he introduced steam cleaning in the cellar. The two actions combined to create a more concentrated and cleaner wine than was typically the case. Downright modernistic for the age! The wines of this era, roughly 1974- 1999 remain as a testament to his commitment during this period, and not in small part due to the elevage those wines underwent. As was often seen at that time, Lorenzo aged his wine first in botte, for 3 years, followed by an additional 3 years in 12.5 liter quarter brenta bottles, of which he had upwards of 300 at the time. This ageing in large format glass seems to freeze the wines, lending them a clarity and accentuating their crystalline nature in way that wood and small bottle ageing simply can not match. If you are fortunate to try wines from this period you may very well marvel at how well they are preserved and the clarity they continue to offer.
Somewhere along the line, roughly at the turn of the millennium, Lorenzo did away with the demijohn ageing, according to him simply because he no longer enjoyed that phase of the work. Today the Barolo tend to spend roughly 3 years in wood, followed by 3 years in concrete, though the riservas are only bottled after 7 years, giving them an extra year in concrete. There are still a few demijohns bottled as well, overflow from the transfer between wood and concrete with no doubt a dash on sentimentality thrown in for good measure.
Fermentations remain among the longest in the region, averaging between 50 and 60 days, though in no case less than 40 in a decent year, and no less than 35 in any event. In a good year total production of Barolo might be about 10,000 bottles, a drop in the ocean of Barolo, not to mention world class wines.
The Barolo comes primarily from two parcels separated by some 500 meters: Rocche d’Annunziata, which enjoys a full southern exposure, and Rocchette facing a more easterly direction, with Lorenzo preferring the later, feeling that it has a more unique and identifiable personality due to the exposition which catches sun from 9am until the very latest rays of the setting sun. There are also vines planted in Annunziata just behind the winery and Accomasso home. Rocchette is planted with three varieties of Lampia and a little Michet which Lorenzo feels is good to have in moderation, as it requires more attention for a lower production with small clusters. One can recognize Rocchette as far way as Monforte due to the single oak tree Lorenzo left in the vineyard when he last replanted it in 2009. The Rochette and Rocche are generally bottled separately, though a straight Riserva has also been recently produced in 2008, 2009, and 2010.
I love this story, and admire Lorenzo for what he has done. His wines are variable, and intriguing at the very least. They certainly standout as it’s a challenge to find traditional producers in La Morra, though it seems more are adopting the old ways each year. There is both variability and volatility to be found in these wines, but at the same time the Accomasso wines really do express something unique and have that trait rarely seen outside of Nebbiolo based wines: the ability to brush aside dirty aromas with air and blossom into something special.
There have also been Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo and even a Vino Rosso produced here, though I have never actually seen a bottle of the Nebbiolo. The Dolcetto was last produced in 2010, while the Barbera Pochi Filagn - few vines in dialect - was recently available at the winery with the 2012 vintage being sold in 2018. Another anomaly in today’s world!
In the years since my first visit to Lorenzo Accomasso’s cellar in the frazione of la Morra known as Annunziata there have been some changes, though little that one can see. The change, as it were, is more in the appreciation of these wines and the cult like status they have attained. That first visit we were able to pry a trunkful of cases from Lorenzo, all at favorable prices. Today things are different indeed. Barolo in know 55 euros a bottle and very hard to come by, though I can not lament the allocation that i have earned.
What changed? It’s difficult to suss out, though I feel that i am at least minimally responsible, having made the introduction to the sommelier and wine taliban world that now covet these wines, perhaps beyond their relative value. Lorenzo was a pioneer of sorts in the Langhe, and remains a steadfast figure producing what he wants to produce, which is to say classic, traditional wines that express a time as much as a place.
2010 Accomasso Barbera Pochi Filagn 14.5%
Opaque in the glass. Dark and earthy on the nose with a smoky, slightly rubbery and medicinal character which strikes me as very Nebbiolata. Much brighter on the palate than the nose suggested, rustic, full of fruit, long, and vibrant. Bright acids so typical of the varietal grace the palate but his has tons of soft fruit wrapped around it. Classic, if a monster of a Barbera with dark fruit, acid, and richness persisting through the long finish. Deep, old viney texture and flavors. (2016) 93pts
2011 Accomasso Barbera Pochi Filagn 15.5%
A bit evolved on the nose with dark, earthy, spicy, rich plummy fruit laced with pencil shavings. On the palate there is a fine underlayment of clean, precise, dark berry and rich, cocoa dusted plummy fruit. Long, intense, and powerful; perfectly suited for bread and salumi as Lorenzo suggests, this is intense and vibrant for a huge wine. Packed with slightly prune juice tinged plummy fruit and a little chocolate covered cherry flavors. A little liquoroso. I would drink this sooner rather than later. (2017) 89pts
Opaque in the glass. Dark and earthy on the nose with a smoky, slightly rubbery and medicinal character which strikes me as very Nebbiolata. Much brighter on the palate than the nose suggested, rustic, full of fruit, long, and vibrant. Bright acids so typical of the varietal grace the palate but his has tons of soft fruit wrapped around it. Classic, if a monster of a Barbera with dark fruit, acid, and richness persisting through the long finish. Deep, old viney texture and flavors. (2016) 93pts
2011 Accomasso Barbera Pochi Filagn 15.5%
A bit evolved on the nose with dark, earthy, spicy, rich plummy fruit laced with pencil shavings. On the palate there is a fine underlayment of clean, precise, dark berry and rich, cocoa dusted plummy fruit. Long, intense, and powerful; perfectly suited for bread and salumi as Lorenzo suggests, this is intense and vibrant for a huge wine. Packed with slightly prune juice tinged plummy fruit and a little chocolate covered cherry flavors. A little liquoroso. I would drink this sooner rather than later. (2017) 89pts
Barolo
1970 Accomasso Barolo
Starting out on the herbal side, particularly on the nose but evident on the palate as well, this gains a kernel of slightly medicinal, sweet black cherry on the palate that joins nuanced iron, stone, dried fruit and beef jerky notes through the decent finish. Still showing some dusty tannins this is fully mature if not ideally balanced. (2016) 87pts
1970 Accomasso Barolo
Starting out on the herbal side, particularly on the nose but evident on the palate as well, this gains a kernel of slightly medicinal, sweet black cherry on the palate that joins nuanced iron, stone, dried fruit and beef jerky notes through the decent finish. Still showing some dusty tannins this is fully mature if not ideally balanced. (2016) 87pts
1974 Accomasso Barolo
Showing the sweetness of maderization on the nose, though not without rich aromas of ginseng, saffron, flowers, licorice and medicinal spice making this at least interesting. Lean and attenuated in the mouth, there are the inner mouth perfumes found on the nose but this bottle lacks freshness and vitality. (2016) 82pts
1974 Accomasso Barolo
Tight, clean, and fresh fresh on the nose with an underlying minerality that lends the perfumes of flowers and herb great precision. Gorgeous fruit fresh floods the palate with flavors of bright, red cherries that gain hints of green anise seed and tobacco on the backend, lingering on the moderately long finish. Pure with superb balance in an elegant style, though lacking some follow through. (2015) 93pts
Showing the sweetness of maderization on the nose, though not without rich aromas of ginseng, saffron, flowers, licorice and medicinal spice making this at least interesting. Lean and attenuated in the mouth, there are the inner mouth perfumes found on the nose but this bottle lacks freshness and vitality. (2016) 82pts
1974 Accomasso Barolo
Tight, clean, and fresh fresh on the nose with an underlying minerality that lends the perfumes of flowers and herb great precision. Gorgeous fruit fresh floods the palate with flavors of bright, red cherries that gain hints of green anise seed and tobacco on the backend, lingering on the moderately long finish. Pure with superb balance in an elegant style, though lacking some follow through. (2015) 93pts
Barolo Annunziata
1978 Accomasso Barolo Annunziata
Out of 3 liter which had been opened two days before.
One can’t help but notice the intense and amazing color, copper toned but still with a deep core of blood red to it. Old Barolo nose rich with the aromas of creosote, some dried fruit, dried mushrooms, tobacco and licorice. Bright acids greet the palate supporting a rather rich core of sweet red fruit flecked with chalky minerality. Fabulous today if at the end of its peak drinking window. This must have been undrinkable back in the day as it remains a firmly structured wine. (2016) 92pts
1978 Accomasso Barolo Annunziata
Out of 3 liter which had been opened two days before.
One can’t help but notice the intense and amazing color, copper toned but still with a deep core of blood red to it. Old Barolo nose rich with the aromas of creosote, some dried fruit, dried mushrooms, tobacco and licorice. Bright acids greet the palate supporting a rather rich core of sweet red fruit flecked with chalky minerality. Fabulous today if at the end of its peak drinking window. This must have been undrinkable back in the day as it remains a firmly structured wine. (2016) 92pts
Barolo Rocchette
1978 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette
Tight on the nose with an earthy, tarry aromatic base enlivened by notes of tobacco and dried flowers. Overall rather savory on the nose which shows up on the palate in a spicy register, with a certain sweetness lending this a bit of a fruit cake character. VA is assertive lending this a rustic character and leading to a bitter and austere finish. (2016) 87pts
1989 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette
Tight on the nose with a base of concrete dust quickly consumed by a distinct mintiness and rich aromas of ripe herbs. Moderately rich in the mouth, rounded but still quite tannic with excellent length and focus. This needs air or time as it is still youthful and somewhat reticent though the bright red cherry fruit again flecked with minerality is certainly delicious. Given the vintage I would have expected a bit more plushness at this age, but this can be appreciated for its strictness as well. Precise and focused. (2016) 92pts
1995 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette
Deeply aromatic with layers of mineral, asian spice, and floral perfumes topped with a hint of camfour, shows lovely purity and complexity. Fresh in the mouth with tones of wild cherry fruit in a bright, tense style. A touch simple with its cherry/licorice two step but there is no denying the appeal and a slightly bitter medicinal note lends a certain complexity to the long finish. (2016) 91pts
1996 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette
Lovely on the nose, redolent of tea leaves, rose petals, jammy griotte cherry with accent notes of white pepper and lemons. Deep and old viney in the mouth this is lean, yet in a graceful mold. Still decidedly youthful with room to run, there is a fine, silky core of cherry fruit which remains focused quite tightly through the palate and through the long finish. Uncommon finesse for an Accomasso wine. This really needs another 3-5 ers of bottle age to reach its peak. (2016) 93pts
1997 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette
Smokey and ripe on the nose, showing some alcohol but its not excessive and certainly doesn’t get in the way of th tarry and spicy aromas this exhibits along with hints of roses and ginseng.. Decidedly jammy fruit on the palate gains lift from some VA. Has a meaty, teriyaki like accent to the palate and while this starts off with a sweetness on entry, the strong acidity lends this tension through the long finish. Jammy, black cherry fruit leads to a mineral tinged finale with the richness of the warm vintage lending length to the liquory fruit. An amazing 1997 Barolo, top of the vintage to be sure. (2016) 94pts
1998 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette
A bit dull on the nose and redolent of concrete dust with a fairly advanced aromatic profile of mushrooms, tar, and dried fruit that starts off on the dirty side but does clean up with air. Softish in the mouth, savory and more open than the preceding 1997 but at the same time this feels a bit tired and disjointed, though it does offer a very long, savory finish. (2016) 84pts
1999 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette
Gorgeous on the nose, featuring a tight aromatic core of freshly cut herbs, polleny flowers, black cherry fruit, and dusty soil tones. Intense and pure in the mouth, while tight this shows the fruit of the 1997 with an incipient savoriness that recalls the 1998. Here's near endless red fruit layered over some old wood tones lending nuance all supported by perfectly ripe tannins and juicy acidity. Air adds classic rose and camphor notes to the nose while focusing the chiseled, austere power here. One of the best Accomasso wines I’ve had. (2016) 95pts
2001 Accomasso Barolo Riserva Rocchette
Dark and oily on the nose with slightly jammy fruit showing fine intensity and gaining both peppery and meaty notes with air along with a touch of a violet top note. A bit earthy on the palate, though tight and dense with powerful tannins underpinning the chewy fruit. A bit of a monster in the Accomasso lineup with incredible length and persistence to the cherry skin and mineral laced fruit. This combines richness, sweetness, persistence, and cut. Very impressive. (2016) 95pts
2007 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette
On the tight side with coiled, mineral and dried herb aromas. Tight, angular, powerful in the mouth yet sinewy, this is still decidedly youthful. Air brings a slight medicinal note to the fore along with raspberry tinged fruit and a gentle underlying sweetness to the wine. Closing up, this has fine balance and even through the structural veil one can see purty and complexity in the future. (2016) 92pts
2008 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette
Hugely aromatic with deep, profound notes of herbs, menthol, and dark fruit accented with hints of carobby maderization and supported by noticeable VA. Classic old school Barlo aromatics. Dense and rich in the mouth delivering a big impact of amarena cherry that really fills the mouth. The tannins are a bit coarse and chewy. On the rustic side, and if it wasn’t for the elevated levels of VA this would be a real success. As it is this is a touch short and a touch hot but remains very interesting nonetheless. It will be interesting to see how this ages. (2016) 89pts
1978 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette
Tight on the nose with an earthy, tarry aromatic base enlivened by notes of tobacco and dried flowers. Overall rather savory on the nose which shows up on the palate in a spicy register, with a certain sweetness lending this a bit of a fruit cake character. VA is assertive lending this a rustic character and leading to a bitter and austere finish. (2016) 87pts
1989 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette
Tight on the nose with a base of concrete dust quickly consumed by a distinct mintiness and rich aromas of ripe herbs. Moderately rich in the mouth, rounded but still quite tannic with excellent length and focus. This needs air or time as it is still youthful and somewhat reticent though the bright red cherry fruit again flecked with minerality is certainly delicious. Given the vintage I would have expected a bit more plushness at this age, but this can be appreciated for its strictness as well. Precise and focused. (2016) 92pts
1995 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette
Deeply aromatic with layers of mineral, asian spice, and floral perfumes topped with a hint of camfour, shows lovely purity and complexity. Fresh in the mouth with tones of wild cherry fruit in a bright, tense style. A touch simple with its cherry/licorice two step but there is no denying the appeal and a slightly bitter medicinal note lends a certain complexity to the long finish. (2016) 91pts
1996 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette
Lovely on the nose, redolent of tea leaves, rose petals, jammy griotte cherry with accent notes of white pepper and lemons. Deep and old viney in the mouth this is lean, yet in a graceful mold. Still decidedly youthful with room to run, there is a fine, silky core of cherry fruit which remains focused quite tightly through the palate and through the long finish. Uncommon finesse for an Accomasso wine. This really needs another 3-5 ers of bottle age to reach its peak. (2016) 93pts
1997 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette
Smokey and ripe on the nose, showing some alcohol but its not excessive and certainly doesn’t get in the way of th tarry and spicy aromas this exhibits along with hints of roses and ginseng.. Decidedly jammy fruit on the palate gains lift from some VA. Has a meaty, teriyaki like accent to the palate and while this starts off with a sweetness on entry, the strong acidity lends this tension through the long finish. Jammy, black cherry fruit leads to a mineral tinged finale with the richness of the warm vintage lending length to the liquory fruit. An amazing 1997 Barolo, top of the vintage to be sure. (2016) 94pts
1998 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette
A bit dull on the nose and redolent of concrete dust with a fairly advanced aromatic profile of mushrooms, tar, and dried fruit that starts off on the dirty side but does clean up with air. Softish in the mouth, savory and more open than the preceding 1997 but at the same time this feels a bit tired and disjointed, though it does offer a very long, savory finish. (2016) 84pts
1999 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette
Gorgeous on the nose, featuring a tight aromatic core of freshly cut herbs, polleny flowers, black cherry fruit, and dusty soil tones. Intense and pure in the mouth, while tight this shows the fruit of the 1997 with an incipient savoriness that recalls the 1998. Here's near endless red fruit layered over some old wood tones lending nuance all supported by perfectly ripe tannins and juicy acidity. Air adds classic rose and camphor notes to the nose while focusing the chiseled, austere power here. One of the best Accomasso wines I’ve had. (2016) 95pts
2001 Accomasso Barolo Riserva Rocchette
Dark and oily on the nose with slightly jammy fruit showing fine intensity and gaining both peppery and meaty notes with air along with a touch of a violet top note. A bit earthy on the palate, though tight and dense with powerful tannins underpinning the chewy fruit. A bit of a monster in the Accomasso lineup with incredible length and persistence to the cherry skin and mineral laced fruit. This combines richness, sweetness, persistence, and cut. Very impressive. (2016) 95pts
2007 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette
On the tight side with coiled, mineral and dried herb aromas. Tight, angular, powerful in the mouth yet sinewy, this is still decidedly youthful. Air brings a slight medicinal note to the fore along with raspberry tinged fruit and a gentle underlying sweetness to the wine. Closing up, this has fine balance and even through the structural veil one can see purty and complexity in the future. (2016) 92pts
2008 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette
Hugely aromatic with deep, profound notes of herbs, menthol, and dark fruit accented with hints of carobby maderization and supported by noticeable VA. Classic old school Barlo aromatics. Dense and rich in the mouth delivering a big impact of amarena cherry that really fills the mouth. The tannins are a bit coarse and chewy. On the rustic side, and if it wasn’t for the elevated levels of VA this would be a real success. As it is this is a touch short and a touch hot but remains very interesting nonetheless. It will be interesting to see how this ages. (2016) 89pts
Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata
1990 Accomasso Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata
Tight on the nose though the aromas are quite attractive, recalling springtime with notes of humus, soil, fresh herbs, particularly dill and a Lea & Perrin savoriness and spiciness. Another youthful wine that benefits from air and could have used more time than we were able to give the wine. Great focus and bright on the palate with a combination of richness and ripeness of tannins that sets this apart from many Accomasso wines. The flavors in the mouth recall black cherries and cough lozenges with an underlying minerality again lending some snap, though given the acidity there is little need for more. Another wine that lacks just a bit of follow through but an excellent example and a top wine of the vintage. (2016) 93pts
1995 Accomasso Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata
Tight on the nose, a bit mentholy and certainly a bit meaty with floral top notes. A little light weight on the palate but carrying tons of drying tannin to a very short and bitter finish. Perhaps this is still coming out of its shell but one has to assume this is not a representative bottle. (2016) NR
1996 Accomasso Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata
A little briny on the nose with hints of salted caper and white floral aromas layered over base notes of licorice, black fruit, and tobacco. Tight in the mouth with a classic texture, tense and precise showing fine balance between the ripe tannins and bright acids. Good depth to the black cherry fruit on the palate though one gets the sense that this is just barely perfectly ripe due to the transparency and precision it displays. While not in need of as much time as the Rocchette, it should see another year or two of bottle age before revisiting. (2016) 92pts
2000 Accomasso Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata
Lovely on the nose with intense floral aromas of rose and lilac joined by some exotic jasmine and cardamom spiciness and perhaps a hint of blood. Softish, slightly round in the mouth but retaining an elegance if a bit on the simple side. Juicy, sour cherry fruit graces the palate with underlying dusty tannins lending tension. Just coming out of its shell, this is a superb 2000 Barolo with cut and precision, and sneaky length. (2016) 93pts
2001 Accomasso Rocche dell’Annunziata
Dusty on the nose but rather clean, restrained and nuanced. This is a tight, faceted and pure wine with real energy in the mouth. Ripe tannins clip the finish slightly, though no doubt this will lengthen with air and age. Elegant even though this retains the rusticity of classic Barolo. A bit of plum accents the berry fruit on the palate which is quite pure and detailed. The nose really open up with ginseng and white peppery spice. Turns lovely and lighter with air. (2016) 93pts
2006 Accomasso Rocche dell’Annunziata
Tight on the nose and meaty and savory wild with accent notes of orange peel, licorice, and old wood lent lift by VA. Big fruit greets the palate along with high acid and ripe tannins which lend this an electric feel in the mouth. Earthy on the palate with fine cherry fruit, leathery accents and slow to emerge herbal complexity. The finish is a bit tough, but not without a degree of elegnace to its tarry and citrus laced flavors. A big wine and quite complete. (2017) 90pts
2007 Accomasso Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata
Austere and tight on the nose with a stoniness accented by hints of mint. Less generous than previous bottles, this is probably shutting down though it still displays excellent length and focus in the mouth. It’s vibrant and tight with wild red berry fruit and mineral flavors all supported by silky tannins. It should emerge from its slumber as another winner. (2016) 91pts
2008 Accomasso Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata
Opens with a hint of oxidation to the nose, and while young and tight this does display aromas of ink, ash, burnt wood, tarry, and curiously, honeycomb. A touch of sweetness greets the tongue followed by a slightly chewy, tight, and powerful impact in the mouth. Austere and angular, this is focused and sapid, with minerality that truly hints at a saltiness lending fine detail to the core of perfectly ripe black cherry fruit. If the oxidative notes dissipate, which they have had a tendency to do, this should be terrific in several years. (2016) 93pts
1990 Accomasso Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata
Tight on the nose though the aromas are quite attractive, recalling springtime with notes of humus, soil, fresh herbs, particularly dill and a Lea & Perrin savoriness and spiciness. Another youthful wine that benefits from air and could have used more time than we were able to give the wine. Great focus and bright on the palate with a combination of richness and ripeness of tannins that sets this apart from many Accomasso wines. The flavors in the mouth recall black cherries and cough lozenges with an underlying minerality again lending some snap, though given the acidity there is little need for more. Another wine that lacks just a bit of follow through but an excellent example and a top wine of the vintage. (2016) 93pts
1995 Accomasso Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata
Tight on the nose, a bit mentholy and certainly a bit meaty with floral top notes. A little light weight on the palate but carrying tons of drying tannin to a very short and bitter finish. Perhaps this is still coming out of its shell but one has to assume this is not a representative bottle. (2016) NR
1996 Accomasso Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata
A little briny on the nose with hints of salted caper and white floral aromas layered over base notes of licorice, black fruit, and tobacco. Tight in the mouth with a classic texture, tense and precise showing fine balance between the ripe tannins and bright acids. Good depth to the black cherry fruit on the palate though one gets the sense that this is just barely perfectly ripe due to the transparency and precision it displays. While not in need of as much time as the Rocchette, it should see another year or two of bottle age before revisiting. (2016) 92pts
2000 Accomasso Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata
Lovely on the nose with intense floral aromas of rose and lilac joined by some exotic jasmine and cardamom spiciness and perhaps a hint of blood. Softish, slightly round in the mouth but retaining an elegance if a bit on the simple side. Juicy, sour cherry fruit graces the palate with underlying dusty tannins lending tension. Just coming out of its shell, this is a superb 2000 Barolo with cut and precision, and sneaky length. (2016) 93pts
2001 Accomasso Rocche dell’Annunziata
Dusty on the nose but rather clean, restrained and nuanced. This is a tight, faceted and pure wine with real energy in the mouth. Ripe tannins clip the finish slightly, though no doubt this will lengthen with air and age. Elegant even though this retains the rusticity of classic Barolo. A bit of plum accents the berry fruit on the palate which is quite pure and detailed. The nose really open up with ginseng and white peppery spice. Turns lovely and lighter with air. (2016) 93pts
2006 Accomasso Rocche dell’Annunziata
Tight on the nose and meaty and savory wild with accent notes of orange peel, licorice, and old wood lent lift by VA. Big fruit greets the palate along with high acid and ripe tannins which lend this an electric feel in the mouth. Earthy on the palate with fine cherry fruit, leathery accents and slow to emerge herbal complexity. The finish is a bit tough, but not without a degree of elegnace to its tarry and citrus laced flavors. A big wine and quite complete. (2017) 90pts
2007 Accomasso Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata
Austere and tight on the nose with a stoniness accented by hints of mint. Less generous than previous bottles, this is probably shutting down though it still displays excellent length and focus in the mouth. It’s vibrant and tight with wild red berry fruit and mineral flavors all supported by silky tannins. It should emerge from its slumber as another winner. (2016) 91pts
2008 Accomasso Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata
Opens with a hint of oxidation to the nose, and while young and tight this does display aromas of ink, ash, burnt wood, tarry, and curiously, honeycomb. A touch of sweetness greets the tongue followed by a slightly chewy, tight, and powerful impact in the mouth. Austere and angular, this is focused and sapid, with minerality that truly hints at a saltiness lending fine detail to the core of perfectly ripe black cherry fruit. If the oxidative notes dissipate, which they have had a tendency to do, this should be terrific in several years. (2016) 93pts
2003 Accomasso Barolo Le Mie Vigne
Decidedly sweet on the nose with ripe, green herbal notes, a touch of mint and violet pastille embedded in fruit which has a slightly pruny edge to it. Tobacco and iron appear with air. Chewy in the mouth with tannins that are not quite ripe, there's a bit of heat to be found on the palate and this lacks some length but at the same time this seems fresh, if with very dark fruit. There a lot of leather and tar on the palate, but also good minerality as well. The tannins finish on the dry and aggressive side but there is still some pleasure to be had here and it might improve. (2016) 87pts
Decidedly sweet on the nose with ripe, green herbal notes, a touch of mint and violet pastille embedded in fruit which has a slightly pruny edge to it. Tobacco and iron appear with air. Chewy in the mouth with tannins that are not quite ripe, there's a bit of heat to be found on the palate and this lacks some length but at the same time this seems fresh, if with very dark fruit. There a lot of leather and tar on the palate, but also good minerality as well. The tannins finish on the dry and aggressive side but there is still some pleasure to be had here and it might improve. (2016) 87pts
2010 Accomasso Barolo per Elena
Impressive on the nose humus, dry earth, dry rust, and a hint of pencil shavings combine to offer an interesting if not fruit driven impression. Elegant, clean, and pure on the palate with some hints of ginseng lending complexity to the inner mouth perfumes. Ginseng on the nose. Fine grained yet austere tannins lend this an edgy, if slightly rustic feel. Very clean and precise, if not terribly open. Tart red fruit reminiscent of cranberry emerges with air. A bit on the delicate side for Accomasso but lovely. (2018) 91pts
Impressive on the nose humus, dry earth, dry rust, and a hint of pencil shavings combine to offer an interesting if not fruit driven impression. Elegant, clean, and pure on the palate with some hints of ginseng lending complexity to the inner mouth perfumes. Ginseng on the nose. Fine grained yet austere tannins lend this an edgy, if slightly rustic feel. Very clean and precise, if not terribly open. Tart red fruit reminiscent of cranberry emerges with air. A bit on the delicate side for Accomasso but lovely. (2018) 91pts
Tasted 5/2019
2010 Accomasso Barolo
A touch dirty and certainly slightly volatile on the nose with a pronounced carob undertone and some sweaty, meat tones rich framing the very ripe, bordering on over ripe fruit flavors and aromas. But this is bright lively in the mouth with great acids which are surprising considering the flavors. Very complex and well knit with impressive richness and decent length and as is so often the case with these wines it cleans up with air showing lots of iron on the nose with some dried ginger and white pepper spice notes notes. The palate begins to shows some finesse and exhibits just lovely depth and nuance. This needs time in the glass to right itself but is already showing well. 92pts
1986 Accomasso Barolo Vigneto Rocchette 14%
Very evolved at first with lots of smoke, tobacco, soy and dried, peppery spice on the nose. The palate shows off rich fruit and tannins: dry tannins lending this an austere finish with good length with black cherry skin and plummy fruit. Powerful and very similar to the Bartolo of the same finish. At first this is powerful and spicy but not super well knit, though interesting and complex. Smoothed out fantastically with air gaining richness. The nose is still is a bit ashy and more earth than fruity but cleaner if still with an echo of oxidation. On the palate there’s impressive richness and depth to the slightly plummy black cherry fruit. Certainly a touch rustic but long and rich and getting better minute to minute. 93pts
2010 Accomasso Barolo
A touch dirty and certainly slightly volatile on the nose with a pronounced carob undertone and some sweaty, meat tones rich framing the very ripe, bordering on over ripe fruit flavors and aromas. But this is bright lively in the mouth with great acids which are surprising considering the flavors. Very complex and well knit with impressive richness and decent length and as is so often the case with these wines it cleans up with air showing lots of iron on the nose with some dried ginger and white pepper spice notes notes. The palate begins to shows some finesse and exhibits just lovely depth and nuance. This needs time in the glass to right itself but is already showing well. 92pts
1986 Accomasso Barolo Vigneto Rocchette 14%
Very evolved at first with lots of smoke, tobacco, soy and dried, peppery spice on the nose. The palate shows off rich fruit and tannins: dry tannins lending this an austere finish with good length with black cherry skin and plummy fruit. Powerful and very similar to the Bartolo of the same finish. At first this is powerful and spicy but not super well knit, though interesting and complex. Smoothed out fantastically with air gaining richness. The nose is still is a bit ashy and more earth than fruity but cleaner if still with an echo of oxidation. On the palate there’s impressive richness and depth to the slightly plummy black cherry fruit. Certainly a touch rustic but long and rich and getting better minute to minute. 93pts