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Principiano, Ferdinando

If you are looking for passion in Piemonte you need not look any further. In making a 180 degree reversal from relatively modernist way, Ferdinando Principiano has not only embraced natural farming but has made it his life’s work to develop vineyards that live in harmony and ths give wines that are innately balanced. A famous winemaker asked my thoughts on Ferdinando’s wines a few years ago when I replied that his efforts in the vineyards were second to none, as they remain, but his wines still had a ways to go to join the top ranks of Barolo producers. With this current line-up I am forced to amend my opinion. The vineyard work here is spectacular, and now so are the wines. They feel natural, and sometimes taste or smell a bit natural, but with the complexity, elegance, and finesse of a top producer.

2016 there was no rain for about 45 days, all of August and September there was no rain, for the long maturation of nebbiolo it was a bit of a problem and prevented the vines from producing the maximum,


2014 Ferdinando Principiano Alta Langa
Still on lees, 30 months on less, 60 Pinot Nero, rest chard ten kilometers south of monforte same Helvetians, at 750 meters, 2014 second ferment with must,  solo SS,
Lovely red fruit graces the nose, along with perfumes of wild flowers. Bright with high acids in the mouth supporting lovely deep citrusy fruit that shows a hint of strawberry on the palate, good length, lean, fine, and focused with a fine perlage. Bone dry and brilliant.  90pts

First vintage, bone dry, brilliant wine

2014 frost, 2k, 2015 hail 1k, 2016 full production 8k,

2016 Ferdinando Principiano  Langhe Bianco Timorasso 12%
Planted in same alta Langa region,
One month in bottle, not in sale yet,
Crushed with stems, to keep it fresh and the need for sulphur fermented with the stems, they are added back to the liquid, no malo, natural yeast ph 2.9-3, maybe 20% stems,
This is the first vintage where it really expresses what Ferdinando has been looking for, vertical, a finish with a sweetness of mature  vines were planted in 2010
Very aromatic with distinctive lime, dried green tea aromas paired with limestone minerality. In the mouth one finds lovely richness with a lacy structure. This is mineral and rich with a hint of pear fruit sweetness in the mouth wrapped with juicy lime flavors and a lovely ripe dried herbal note that drives the finish. This really sits upright int he mouth, with good cut and excellent height. 90pts

2016 Ferdinando Principiano Dosset Vino Rosso 0.5%
Early harvest, two week before the usual harvest fro dolcetto Classico, 10.5% the classic interpretation of dolcetto, one week on skins, bottled first week of December, bottled without sulfite
Lovely perfumed nose perhaps more immediate than last year, with a hint of ink and musky violet undertones. Bright and juicy, a playful wine offering lovely fruit with a core of gentle sweet/tartness. Has a bit of tannin this year, tart lingonberry and almost red plum fruit. Eminently drinkable, short of course but fresh and juicy. 85pts

2016 Ferdinando Principiano Dolcetto d'Alba Sant'Anna. 12.5%
South of monforte in direction dogliani, 500m, 40yo, two weeks on skin, only SS,  just bottled, used to bottle in August but now prefers to give it four months in the bottle before market, not filtered
Lipstick, waxiness greets the nose followed by very fruity aromas, but not the usual purple fruit, more woodland fruit with a hint of Monforte herbaceousness and a nice tree bark note. There's a sweetness here on the nose. In the mouth this is classic, bright, focused, juicy and fine, with considerable depth tot he wild blackberry flavors, real finesse and transparency for Dolcetto with fine mineral and savory woodland notes on the long finish. 92pts

2015 Nicolas Altare Dogliani 13.5%
Still has animals I be stalls, sotto briccolette di quinietti, in San Luigi but can't
60 yo always bio, 1000 bottles this first vintage, same vinificTion as his,
Big blackberry nose, floral, complex and nuanced, with plummy fruit in a dark and powerful style with an underlay of tariness. A bit chewy in the mouth and rich with sweet tannins and bright acids. Darkly fruity but fresh, if a bit flannely in the mouth. A bit chunky but with nice freshness on the backend and a modest finish. 86pts

2015 Ferdinando Principiano Barbera d'Alba Laura 13%
Serralunga and in Sant'Anna, two weeks on skins, 2016 is the last vintage for the serralunga fruit which has been repainted to nebbiolo , only inox,  started harvest 28 August, finished 28 of september,  20 days early, after the first rain
Tight on the nose with subtle aromas of graphite, ivy, and dark plummy fruit.  Supple in the mouth with just the thinnest blanket of fruit wrapped around fine grained tannins and juicy, vibrant acidity. This is long with real persistence to the pure fruit, with such detail and precision to the fruit. Not the most complex example of Barbera but it is near perfect for what I look for in Barbera: fresh yet dark on the palate, long and refreshing on the finish. Textbook Barbera. 93pts

2015 Ferdinando Principiano  Langhe Nebbiolo 13.5%
Monforte d'Alba Le Coste, 70% in Boscaretto  only SS, the lowest boscaretto, Le Coste only SS
Gorgeously layered on the nose yet so subtle with aromas of wild strawberry in alcohol and sandalwood. Light bodied, but here as well there is a touch of weight, though perhaps not to its advantage. The tannins are so well knit, ripe, and rounded, there's a hint of spice here as well, some sandalwood, especially on the backend and through the finish which shows good length. A bit simple particularly on the finish which is a touch medicinal with a hint of stickiness. 87pts

2013 Ferdinando Principiano  Barolo Serralunga 13%
70% boscaretto rest in baudana and lirano leased
One month on skins, two years 20hl slavonian 10hl
A little stewy on the nose with with with ample stoney, balsamic, and medicinal accents over deep limestone aromas. There's terrific fruit here, and such lovely balance that this is approachable already. The tannins arrive late on the palate, deceptively fine and soft, emerging on the the fairly long finish. Mineral flecked in the mouth and subtly woodsy, with an incipient dried mushroom note embedded in silky and pure fruit. Fnishes with brightness and an almost menthol camphor note. Really fine and elegance. 91pts

2013 Ferdinando Principiano Barolo Ravera di Monforte
Planted in 1934, soil is sand
Same vinification
From 2011 forward they changed much more spicy and aromatic when they stopped using the tractor, it was always very sweet,
Aromas of wild flowers,  artichoke and carrot tops lend complexity to the intense, savory nose here, rich with aromas of Chinato and red raspberry fruit. Angular, fine, and transparent  in the mouth, with great cut, good acidity, and super fine tannins. There’s real finesse  and elegance here with great persistence to the fruit, juicy and lightly iris toned in the mouth, with hints of apricot lending nuance to the berry flavors, all  layered over gentle mineral notes. This is impressively complex and finessed through the vegetal qualities will be off putting to some I find it beautiful with harmony and complexity. 93pts

2012  Ferdinando Principiano  Barolo Boscareto
First vintage no green harvest, four years in botte, two in glass, 11 he thinks was too hot in summer which blocked the maturity of the tannins, tannins in 11 are still too agressive so releasing 12 early and first
Whole cluster up to 2015  was food tread, from 2016 and poi they press it and add back the solids, two weeks skin contact since fermentation with the stems is more even, more regular, and easie
Wild cherry and roses offer a classical bouquet here, intense and  so lovely, with a hint of stems on entry on the nose. The stems are well integrated but noticeable lending a green olive undertone to the ripe red fruit on the palate. There's plenty of tannin here, ripe but certainly present. Perfumed in a masculine way, Cologne like in the mouth with a finish that is a touch crude. Nice wine, Shows that 2012 lack of harmony but pleasant. 90pts

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