Rizieri
A new producer to me, located in Diano d’Alba, I found a lot to like at Rizieri. While they leased a vineyard for their solid Barolo it’s the so-called lesser varieties that they farm themselves that are really exciting here. As is often the case, the wines are striving for purity and brilliance as opposed to power and sheer impressiveness. And while Diano is known as Dolcetto country, it was the Nebbiolo and in particular Barbera that I found so delightful here. They are working hard on building a new, modern winery on site for their production and I expect this will be a name to watch in the future for delicious, unpretentious wines.
Wines are all bottled unfiltered, under diam stoppers.
Added 3000 meters two years ago, a new Barbera planting
Arneis no leaf pulling, west facing, late sunlight here, liked for the later harvest it allows,
Rented Barolo vineyards, in Annunziata half hectare.
Here is clay and calcareous with a good percentage of sand,
Looking towards sponti but not yet, hoping to cultivate the indigenous yeast, and add a single or up to three different yeasts to start and finish ferment
2016 Rizieri Arneis 13.5%
Bottled several days before tasting
Decidedly cheesy nose, a bit dusty and with floral top notes. Medium full in the mouth with a nice edge to the mineral notes, bright, juicy acids, has a bit of stickiness on the palate, good length, correct, pretty fruit, just has the added weight in the mouth that seems to come with selected yeast. Lovely backend with slightly honied tones to the fresh fruit and sandy mineral tones. 85pts
2016 Rizieri Dolcetto d’Alba Arvin 13%
Means fresh, can refer to a kid, vivacious and smart, precocious
Sori del Ricchino one of the smallest sori of Diano
Half is old clone Dolcetto dal peduncolo Rosso, 51 year old,
7-10 days, all SS
Transparent wine, also shows a cheesiness on the nose, bright dark fruit, has a bit of the almond note on the nose with a more mineral than fruit driven aspect. Fresh, mineral driven, and transparent on the palate, this has some fruit skin tannin, and is slightly bracing with a very interesting fruit profile, blueberry skin. Tense in a very drinkable yet structured style, this is delicious if youthful, and very well done, would love this with pasta. 88pts
2015 Rizieri Dolcetto d’Alba Arvin 13.5%
Just a whisper of cheesiness, more, purple toned wild berry fruit here with a nice mineral accent. Silky and smaller scaled, if a bit richer and broader in the mouth with fine grained dusty tannins and lovely strawberry and sour cherry skin fruit. Bright and juicy, with great acid cut here though less aggressive than the 2016. Offering good length, this is classic in a leaner more mineral driven style, a bit spicy with less almond than the 16. The finish is lovely, tight, slightly tannic, and bright with real freshness. 87pts
2015 Rizieri Barbera d’Alba Sbilauta 13.5%
First vintage, 6 grams acid,
Picked from two different vineyards with southeast exposures,
Transparent, pretty and perfumed on the nose with a bit spicy, black cherry skin fruit aromas. Perhaps a bit vague in the mouth but at the same time this is so lithe, transparent and a bit crunchy. Invitingly easy drinking, with lovely, juicy freshness to the cherry fruit. Very clean, pure and bright, with fine lovely little tannins, this is gulpable, a bit austere, and a fine echo of bitterness on the finish. Mouthwatering! 87pts
2014 Rizieri Barbera d’Alba Superiore 14%
12 days fermentation then aged in 25-30hl botte, one tonneaux per big barrel, for 13 months
13 vs 14 oak,
2014 all slavonian oak,
purchased last new Slavonian botte in 2015,
In 2013 put Nebbiolo in French, Barbera in Slavonian
A little smoky on the nose, has a gentle impact of wood still obvious with lots of frutti del Bosco notes on the nose and a hint of underbrush. A step up in concentration of fruitiness, more tannins but more rounded tannins, and acid is bright and really drives the finish which is lingering. This retains good transparency in the mouth, if being a bit broad shoulder and slender waisted, and gains some weight on the finish Shows wonderful fruit character, with just a suggestion of chewiness here, really well done wine though it lacks a bit of varietal character. 88pts
2013 Rizieri Barbera d’Alba Superiore 14%
Fourth passage wood
There's more obvious fruit here with an underlying sweetness, plummy with orchard fruits note, while still shows that slightly stemmy underbrush note. In the mouth this is silky, lacks some of the angularity of the 14 but delivers rather intense if pure red plum and red cherry fruit, with almost no perceptible tannins. Kind of lush and silky without being heavy, decidedly fruit driven with a hint of minerality on the midpalate, and a touch of nutty oak on the backend which gains terrific sour cherry fruit with good length. A smaller styled Barbera, but very Barbera: juicy, lovely bright finish, very long. 90pts
2014 Rizieri Nebbiolo d’Alba 14%
For each botte a tonneaux, up to three weeks ferment,
Spicy on the nose, very spicy in fact, and dusty this smells of clay, then floral with some green watermelon rind and still with a suggestion of cheesiness. Bright and juicy on entry, this shows watermelon and burnished red wild berry fruit in the mouth with a hint of minerality. It’s medium bodied, clean, and not shy of tannin, but this plays very well with the persistence to the burnished fruit of the palate, already a nuance of autumnal herbaceousness lending complexity and no fat here. This is pretty ready to be enjoyed and I’d be concerned keeping it more than a year or two as I expect the tannins to outlive the fruit. 87pts
2013 Rizieri Nebbiolo d’Alba 13.5%
This has a really impressive nose, packed with ripe red fruit, rosehips, a suggestion of something vegetal that is more green citrus, dusty, in fact a little air really brings out the dusty white soil tones, and a hint of hazelnuttiness. Great cut on entry here, with lovely depth, this is gorgeous so bright and fresh with red fruit that is precise but not overpowering. Nuanced, sweet herbal base notes and hints of rosewater grace the midpalate with a balanced softness yet this remains austere and vertical in the mouth. The only that the only nitpick is that it's a bit short, but considering the elegance, remarkable intensity and impressive complexity who cares. Air does bring a nice mineral note to the finish, white clay toned, adding to the elegant freshness of this wine. 90pts
2013 Rizieri Barolo 14.5%
20 days on the skins, or more
Only slavonian oak 25hl for 24 months
Green walnut greets the nose followed by cherries in alcohol, pickled watermelon rind, lots of citrus character on a nose that offers soldi complexity based on savoriness, not only fruit, with tight little rosebuds and a hint of evergreen adding detail. Elegant and soft in the mouth, with burnished fruit that is more intense than the nose suggests.A candied citrus peel note on entry leads to a midpalate that is a bit spicy with dark berry fruits supported by soft tannins and bright acids. A little chewy on the rather long finish, this is lovely and complete but the style is a little less successful than with the varietal wines. The tannins are ripe, almost soft but certainly build on the palate and might be a bit outsized for the fruit here, finishes with a hint of minerality. 89pts
2012 Rizieri Barolo 14.5%
Aromas of lipstick, red candy, great red cherry and watermelon greet the nose. Smooth, and definitely richer and rounder in the mouth than the 2013, this is also simpler for sure but with lots of fresh red fruit, and tannins are a bit dryer here but well within expectations, leading to a spicy tannic finish. Rather front loaded with fruit, this follows the classic 2012 vintage profile with lots of fruit up front, lacks a bit of a midpalate, then a dry, austere, if pleasantly so in that sense, but sharp finish. A little coarse. 85pts
Wines are all bottled unfiltered, under diam stoppers.
Added 3000 meters two years ago, a new Barbera planting
Arneis no leaf pulling, west facing, late sunlight here, liked for the later harvest it allows,
Rented Barolo vineyards, in Annunziata half hectare.
Here is clay and calcareous with a good percentage of sand,
Looking towards sponti but not yet, hoping to cultivate the indigenous yeast, and add a single or up to three different yeasts to start and finish ferment
2016 Rizieri Arneis 13.5%
Bottled several days before tasting
Decidedly cheesy nose, a bit dusty and with floral top notes. Medium full in the mouth with a nice edge to the mineral notes, bright, juicy acids, has a bit of stickiness on the palate, good length, correct, pretty fruit, just has the added weight in the mouth that seems to come with selected yeast. Lovely backend with slightly honied tones to the fresh fruit and sandy mineral tones. 85pts
2016 Rizieri Dolcetto d’Alba Arvin 13%
Means fresh, can refer to a kid, vivacious and smart, precocious
Sori del Ricchino one of the smallest sori of Diano
Half is old clone Dolcetto dal peduncolo Rosso, 51 year old,
7-10 days, all SS
Transparent wine, also shows a cheesiness on the nose, bright dark fruit, has a bit of the almond note on the nose with a more mineral than fruit driven aspect. Fresh, mineral driven, and transparent on the palate, this has some fruit skin tannin, and is slightly bracing with a very interesting fruit profile, blueberry skin. Tense in a very drinkable yet structured style, this is delicious if youthful, and very well done, would love this with pasta. 88pts
2015 Rizieri Dolcetto d’Alba Arvin 13.5%
Just a whisper of cheesiness, more, purple toned wild berry fruit here with a nice mineral accent. Silky and smaller scaled, if a bit richer and broader in the mouth with fine grained dusty tannins and lovely strawberry and sour cherry skin fruit. Bright and juicy, with great acid cut here though less aggressive than the 2016. Offering good length, this is classic in a leaner more mineral driven style, a bit spicy with less almond than the 16. The finish is lovely, tight, slightly tannic, and bright with real freshness. 87pts
2015 Rizieri Barbera d’Alba Sbilauta 13.5%
First vintage, 6 grams acid,
Picked from two different vineyards with southeast exposures,
Transparent, pretty and perfumed on the nose with a bit spicy, black cherry skin fruit aromas. Perhaps a bit vague in the mouth but at the same time this is so lithe, transparent and a bit crunchy. Invitingly easy drinking, with lovely, juicy freshness to the cherry fruit. Very clean, pure and bright, with fine lovely little tannins, this is gulpable, a bit austere, and a fine echo of bitterness on the finish. Mouthwatering! 87pts
2014 Rizieri Barbera d’Alba Superiore 14%
12 days fermentation then aged in 25-30hl botte, one tonneaux per big barrel, for 13 months
13 vs 14 oak,
2014 all slavonian oak,
purchased last new Slavonian botte in 2015,
In 2013 put Nebbiolo in French, Barbera in Slavonian
A little smoky on the nose, has a gentle impact of wood still obvious with lots of frutti del Bosco notes on the nose and a hint of underbrush. A step up in concentration of fruitiness, more tannins but more rounded tannins, and acid is bright and really drives the finish which is lingering. This retains good transparency in the mouth, if being a bit broad shoulder and slender waisted, and gains some weight on the finish Shows wonderful fruit character, with just a suggestion of chewiness here, really well done wine though it lacks a bit of varietal character. 88pts
2013 Rizieri Barbera d’Alba Superiore 14%
Fourth passage wood
There's more obvious fruit here with an underlying sweetness, plummy with orchard fruits note, while still shows that slightly stemmy underbrush note. In the mouth this is silky, lacks some of the angularity of the 14 but delivers rather intense if pure red plum and red cherry fruit, with almost no perceptible tannins. Kind of lush and silky without being heavy, decidedly fruit driven with a hint of minerality on the midpalate, and a touch of nutty oak on the backend which gains terrific sour cherry fruit with good length. A smaller styled Barbera, but very Barbera: juicy, lovely bright finish, very long. 90pts
2014 Rizieri Nebbiolo d’Alba 14%
For each botte a tonneaux, up to three weeks ferment,
Spicy on the nose, very spicy in fact, and dusty this smells of clay, then floral with some green watermelon rind and still with a suggestion of cheesiness. Bright and juicy on entry, this shows watermelon and burnished red wild berry fruit in the mouth with a hint of minerality. It’s medium bodied, clean, and not shy of tannin, but this plays very well with the persistence to the burnished fruit of the palate, already a nuance of autumnal herbaceousness lending complexity and no fat here. This is pretty ready to be enjoyed and I’d be concerned keeping it more than a year or two as I expect the tannins to outlive the fruit. 87pts
2013 Rizieri Nebbiolo d’Alba 13.5%
This has a really impressive nose, packed with ripe red fruit, rosehips, a suggestion of something vegetal that is more green citrus, dusty, in fact a little air really brings out the dusty white soil tones, and a hint of hazelnuttiness. Great cut on entry here, with lovely depth, this is gorgeous so bright and fresh with red fruit that is precise but not overpowering. Nuanced, sweet herbal base notes and hints of rosewater grace the midpalate with a balanced softness yet this remains austere and vertical in the mouth. The only that the only nitpick is that it's a bit short, but considering the elegance, remarkable intensity and impressive complexity who cares. Air does bring a nice mineral note to the finish, white clay toned, adding to the elegant freshness of this wine. 90pts
2013 Rizieri Barolo 14.5%
20 days on the skins, or more
Only slavonian oak 25hl for 24 months
Green walnut greets the nose followed by cherries in alcohol, pickled watermelon rind, lots of citrus character on a nose that offers soldi complexity based on savoriness, not only fruit, with tight little rosebuds and a hint of evergreen adding detail. Elegant and soft in the mouth, with burnished fruit that is more intense than the nose suggests.A candied citrus peel note on entry leads to a midpalate that is a bit spicy with dark berry fruits supported by soft tannins and bright acids. A little chewy on the rather long finish, this is lovely and complete but the style is a little less successful than with the varietal wines. The tannins are ripe, almost soft but certainly build on the palate and might be a bit outsized for the fruit here, finishes with a hint of minerality. 89pts
2012 Rizieri Barolo 14.5%
Aromas of lipstick, red candy, great red cherry and watermelon greet the nose. Smooth, and definitely richer and rounder in the mouth than the 2013, this is also simpler for sure but with lots of fresh red fruit, and tannins are a bit dryer here but well within expectations, leading to a spicy tannic finish. Rather front loaded with fruit, this follows the classic 2012 vintage profile with lots of fruit up front, lacks a bit of a midpalate, then a dry, austere, if pleasantly so in that sense, but sharp finish. A little coarse. 85pts