Umberto Fracassi Ratti Mentone
From an onsite visit march 2017
Tucked away in Cherasco one finds this little producer, bottling about 6000 bottles per label more or less as an almost Hobby. Sales are local, with a little bit going to the UK but not much more reach than that. The style is fresh, easy and honest, though the Favorita rises above the rest of the line-up here and stands out as one of the top white of Piemonte. 1996 was the first vintage for Umberto here, taking over the operation managed previously by his mother. He cleaned things up a bit, replaced botti and moved the cellar to under the family compound.
2014 Fracassi Ratti Mentone Favorita
This saw one month on the lees, if it is too raw it goes in wood, this did not see any wood, favorita on the right side of the Tanaro has more body than that of Roero and in this case bears a striking resemblance to Vermentino from Liguria.
From very calcareous soil, very similar to barolo vineyard, in fact from vineyards directly under the Mentone cru in Cherasco
Fermented with selected yeast.
Smoky soil tones, pear, heather, and a hint of mineral grace the nose. Medium light bodied, and very mineral driven with a lovely drape of fruit on the palate. A little smoky with fine length in a fresh style with a lovely hint of fruity sweetness buttressing a strong, salty minerality. 89pts
2013 Fracassi Ratti Mentone Dolcetto
Thought he'd sell it in bulk but didn't so bottled it in January, only inox
Horizontal fermenters, pulls it off the skins quickly, otherwise they lose freshness, and get old aromas, barolo then lets it ferment at a low temp, sometimes for up to 30 days, he's looking for freshness and perfume, induces malo quickly, wants to put clean wine into wood so they wood remains clean and works well
Smells deeply of violets and dark fruits, shows a hint of reduction Though. In the mouth it is light, and juicy while showing a modest evolution and just a hint of youthful richness still present. . Clean and still fresh with fine plum skin fruit though almost no tannin, this is gulpable, and fun 86pts
2014 Fracassi Ratti Mentone Dolcetto
Just a hint of old wood gracing the nose along with the same violets and plum skin as with the 2013 There’s a nice roundness on the palate here, more darkly fruited though remaining bright and zesty. It lacks some depth but remains quite a solid effort considering the vintage. Finishing long with fine purity to the fruit and a clean, elegant, and steely finale. 87pts
2013 Fracassi Ratti Mentone Barbera
Less than one third new barrique, second and third passage barrique along with inox.
Deeply aromatic with mocha tinged black plum and black cherry fruit on the nose. In the mouth this is big yet supple, lavish in fact though with great balance, a fair bit of flesh superbly balanced by cutting acids, and a fantastic cleansing finish with huge inner mouth perfumes of fresh fruit, moist earth, and a hint of prune. Entirely joyful and so drinkable. 90pts
2012 Fracassi Ratti Mentone Barolo
One third delestage, with shower, one third paddles in roto, one third full roto during fermentation. The Barolo spends 4 years in wood, first in newer barriques, then in botte of 12hl, 25hl, and 35hl. When the wine has seen enough new influence it goes into inox, which means that wines in newer barrels goes into inox after about three years while the older ones do four.
Delicate on the nose with nuanced prune, plum,and dark cherry skin fruit. Transparent and elegant in the mouth with tannins that are a touch dry and plenty of acid leaving a fairly structured impression in the mouth. Air brings out sandy soil tones in the mouth paired with black cherries, licorice and butchers wax. Certainly old school in style with engaging freshness and delicacy and classic rose petal inner mouth perfumes. Rather bright and vivid as it opens. Not a blockbuster but quite complete. 90pts
2013 Fracassi Ratti Mentone Barolo
15 days in bottle
Tight on the nose with obviously more fruit but also fine rose petal notes than the 2012. This is obviously a bigger wine, with more of everything, more flesh, more fruit, more tannin, though it is really well proportioned. Quite long in the mouth with a lovely hint of density, this will be elegant but has a delicacy in spite of its power. Such lovely fruit on the finish with purity and persistence. This closes up a bit with air, also showing a bit more wood influence, nothing disturbing but becoming more evident while at the same time this gains macerated black cherries with hints of spice and leather on entry. 91pts
Tucked away in Cherasco one finds this little producer, bottling about 6000 bottles per label more or less as an almost Hobby. Sales are local, with a little bit going to the UK but not much more reach than that. The style is fresh, easy and honest, though the Favorita rises above the rest of the line-up here and stands out as one of the top white of Piemonte. 1996 was the first vintage for Umberto here, taking over the operation managed previously by his mother. He cleaned things up a bit, replaced botti and moved the cellar to under the family compound.
2014 Fracassi Ratti Mentone Favorita
This saw one month on the lees, if it is too raw it goes in wood, this did not see any wood, favorita on the right side of the Tanaro has more body than that of Roero and in this case bears a striking resemblance to Vermentino from Liguria.
From very calcareous soil, very similar to barolo vineyard, in fact from vineyards directly under the Mentone cru in Cherasco
Fermented with selected yeast.
Smoky soil tones, pear, heather, and a hint of mineral grace the nose. Medium light bodied, and very mineral driven with a lovely drape of fruit on the palate. A little smoky with fine length in a fresh style with a lovely hint of fruity sweetness buttressing a strong, salty minerality. 89pts
2013 Fracassi Ratti Mentone Dolcetto
Thought he'd sell it in bulk but didn't so bottled it in January, only inox
Horizontal fermenters, pulls it off the skins quickly, otherwise they lose freshness, and get old aromas, barolo then lets it ferment at a low temp, sometimes for up to 30 days, he's looking for freshness and perfume, induces malo quickly, wants to put clean wine into wood so they wood remains clean and works well
Smells deeply of violets and dark fruits, shows a hint of reduction Though. In the mouth it is light, and juicy while showing a modest evolution and just a hint of youthful richness still present. . Clean and still fresh with fine plum skin fruit though almost no tannin, this is gulpable, and fun 86pts
2014 Fracassi Ratti Mentone Dolcetto
Just a hint of old wood gracing the nose along with the same violets and plum skin as with the 2013 There’s a nice roundness on the palate here, more darkly fruited though remaining bright and zesty. It lacks some depth but remains quite a solid effort considering the vintage. Finishing long with fine purity to the fruit and a clean, elegant, and steely finale. 87pts
2013 Fracassi Ratti Mentone Barbera
Less than one third new barrique, second and third passage barrique along with inox.
Deeply aromatic with mocha tinged black plum and black cherry fruit on the nose. In the mouth this is big yet supple, lavish in fact though with great balance, a fair bit of flesh superbly balanced by cutting acids, and a fantastic cleansing finish with huge inner mouth perfumes of fresh fruit, moist earth, and a hint of prune. Entirely joyful and so drinkable. 90pts
2012 Fracassi Ratti Mentone Barolo
One third delestage, with shower, one third paddles in roto, one third full roto during fermentation. The Barolo spends 4 years in wood, first in newer barriques, then in botte of 12hl, 25hl, and 35hl. When the wine has seen enough new influence it goes into inox, which means that wines in newer barrels goes into inox after about three years while the older ones do four.
Delicate on the nose with nuanced prune, plum,and dark cherry skin fruit. Transparent and elegant in the mouth with tannins that are a touch dry and plenty of acid leaving a fairly structured impression in the mouth. Air brings out sandy soil tones in the mouth paired with black cherries, licorice and butchers wax. Certainly old school in style with engaging freshness and delicacy and classic rose petal inner mouth perfumes. Rather bright and vivid as it opens. Not a blockbuster but quite complete. 90pts
2013 Fracassi Ratti Mentone Barolo
15 days in bottle
Tight on the nose with obviously more fruit but also fine rose petal notes than the 2012. This is obviously a bigger wine, with more of everything, more flesh, more fruit, more tannin, though it is really well proportioned. Quite long in the mouth with a lovely hint of density, this will be elegant but has a delicacy in spite of its power. Such lovely fruit on the finish with purity and persistence. This closes up a bit with air, also showing a bit more wood influence, nothing disturbing but becoming more evident while at the same time this gains macerated black cherries with hints of spice and leather on entry. 91pts