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Barbaresco in 2014

To welcome fall, and without a doubt the season has arrived, like clockwork, the moment our Labor Day weekend had wrapped up, I have always had a bit of a tradition of opening some Barbaresco. While my heart may belong to Barolo, the somewhat more elegant and more approachable wines of Barbaresco are perfect for times when you are looking for something lighter, and often somewhat less expensive than the best wines of Barolo.


Also worth consideration at this time are the great Nebbiolo wines that so many producers bottle at fair, though increasing less affordable prices. I have devoted quite a bit of space on these pages to Barolo and the 2010 vintage, and at the same time I have also suggested that the 2011 vintage, while not as classical a vintage as the focused and austere 2010, would provide for some remarkable drinking for those who are either not so patient, or more welcoming of the extra fruit a precocious, warm climate vintage delivers.


Barbaresco producers typically release their wines a year before those of Barolo, reflecting the less stringent requirements of the DOCG. As such we can get a glimpse of the quality of 2011 by sampling the current crop of Barbaresco as well as dipping our tongues into all the straight Nebbiolo that makes its way to our shores. While I consider Barbaresco affordable, it’s obvious that these wines are not inexpensive. For real value your best bet in Nebbiolo are they myriad base bottlings of Langhe Nebbiolo and/or Nebbiolo d’Alba, particularly those from some of the top producers whose Nebbiolo can compete with many Barolo and Barbaresco.


Today I offer you lists of my favorite Nebbiolo and Barbaresco from my visits to Piedmont this year. You can find examples from 2010 through 2012 on shelves right now. Of these my favorite for Nebbiolo is 2011, as it is for Barbaresco as well though 2010 Barbaresco can be very exciting as well. The base Nebbiolos though tend to have benefited from the added warmth of the 2011 vintage, a vintage where the top sites yielded fruit that might be a bit over-ripe or at a minimum particularly rich in sugar and thus alcohol, but at the less well positioned sites the fruit seems for the most part to have reached perfect, if full maturity and the wines show that. The Nebbiolo and Barbaresco in bottle and the Barolo in barrel are across the board the most exciting group of Nebbiolo based wines I’ve ever experienced from a warmer vintage.


What this means for the average consumer is more fruit, softer tannins, and earlier approachability than usual. All of which have traditionally been issues facing Nebbiolo based wines when it comes to consumers with new world palates. Which is not to say that these wines will turn off those with old world plates. These are not 2000s, 1997s, or 2007s. They are a cut well above those vintages and one which I am thoroughly enjoying as I broaden my appreciation of these fine wines!

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One last note. While in Treiso I visited the Rizzi winery and tasted both from barrel and from the cellar. As further proof  of the quality of the 2011 vintage let me say that Rizzi’s 2011 Boito is outrageous, dark, powerful and intense. It will be a fabulous Riserva.  Pajore is all perfume and spice and totally seductive, and Nervo is linear and elegant with the Rizzi an amalgam of all looking very promising and pretty. These were out of barrel but just about ready to be bottled. The wines out of bottles are listed below and show that while Barbaresco is ready before most Barolo, they are long lived wines that warrant more attention from consumers.




2008 Rizzi Barbaresco Boito $NA


Deeply burnished on the nose, with a hint of Chinato layered over dried cherries, a hint of ash and dried cherry wood. This is a big wine, a powerful wine, a bit dark and folded in on itself today but each layer seems distinct, fine and clear. Air brings out a mineral aspect on the palate with gentle medicinal tones that lead to a long finish which shows off the power, elegance, and finesse of this grand site. The  tart red berry fruits, a bit of strawberry with lemon juice on top show fine persistence through the long finish ending with a bit of a spicy  finale. 93pts


2006 Rizzi Barbaresco Boito $NA


Already showing aromatic maturity on the nose this explodes from the glass with aromas of Crayon, damp soil, pine cone, dried raspberry, fine blond tobacco, cranberry and a bit of hightoned middle eastern spice. Still tight and focused on the palate with subtle spicy herb and sandalwood flavors on on entry, this opens on the midpalate to reveal a broad and open pool of orange rind framed wild strawberry flavors which are washed away on the powerful and focused backend which reveals a streak of brilliant red cherry fruit that shows great follow through, along with fabulously ripe tannins through the long finish which ends with a lovely pop of rosebud aromatics in the mouth. Quite tannic and almost ready, this is gorgeous. 93pts


For comparison’s sake I list the current releases here.


2010 Rizzi Barbaresco Nervo $40


Smoky on the nose with slightly jammy aromas of frutti del bosco, a bit of sandalwood on the nose, and underlying aromas of blueberries and tar. Fine ripe tannins, greet the palate

along with acids that lend a bit of orange rind framing notes to the very focused, gorgeous purity to the red wild berry fruit on the plate. With a little balsam notion the backend, this finishes rather tightly with furry, lingering tannins. This needs a few years to fully integrate. 91pts


2010 Rizzi Barbaresco Pajore $45


Powerful with great aromas of fresh fruit on the nose with hints of mulberry, sandalwood, spiced and flinty with an almost peachy note. In the mouth this is decidedly broad and a bit soft with supple tannins, though great acids adds some power and some weight to the rich raspberry fruit on the palate. the tannins build on the backend lending this grace and purity in the mouth. A really terrific effort. 92pts


2010 Rizzi Barbaresco Boito Riserva $50


Deep and powerful on the nose with huge perfumes, spicy and rich with great woodland aromas, pine needles, icy, mineral soil, a bit of pine bark, and dark, tobacco stained berry fruit. Already almost velvety on entry, this exhibits huge structure in the mouth with a poised and faceted feel along with compelling depth and perfume to the wild black berry and blackcurrant fruit on the palate. Long tannic and savory on the finish which is replete with mineral, juniper, and balsamic accents.  Elegant and powerful. 93pts


2009 Rizzi Barbaresco Pajore $45


Big aromas of burnished sIiced cherry fruit greets the nose along with spicy, almost peppery accents and soil tones that lends this an almost animale quality. With lovely fruit on the attack this shows off considerable power and gains nice balsamic spice notes on the midpalate but this feels a bit less full on the back end, tannins are very ripe, and while there is really gorgeous fruit here the wine lacks a bit of grip through the finish. 89pts


2009 Rizzi Barbaresco Boito Riserva $50


First year for the reserva


Tight on the nose with blueberry in alcohol and medicinal aromas. The finest focus of the wines tasted here today, this is clean and taut, tight on entry with tightly packed fine tannins fanning out broadly on the palate. remaining quite fresh and crisp in the mouth with good acids, this is savory and tight right through the moderately long finish. With the fruit is a bit in hiding today, this comes off as a bit lean but powerful and focused. 90pts



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Wines from the Produttori del Barbaresco



2010 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco $30


Two weeks before harvest there were a couple of days of rain


13/088


With sweet woodsy forest floor aromas on the nose, this is quite aromatic, with a lovely floral top note, integrated spice accents, fine apple skin, red lingonberry, and wild strawberry aromas. Not shy with the alcohol in the mouth, this is smooth and polished on the palate with  good power and length, and real drive from the tannins, though this seems deceptively small today with astringent red berried fruit and  a little hint of forest floor bitterness on the palate. Tight and in need of additional time in the bottle. 89pts


2009 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco $30


Sweet herbs, slightly roasted red fruit fruit, cocoa, and an incipient truffle note appear on the nose. With sweet fruity on entry, soft tannins, big size, and great acids this makes quite an impression in the mouth but the tannins show a slight bitter edge, the sweetness comes from the rather high alcohol, and the fruit is decidedly simple in the mouth with lots of small red berry fruit that lacks detail and complexity. Fine but this is a bit short and less interesting than usual. 87pts




2009 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Rio Sordo $55


Big burnished fruit with a slightly roasted quality greets the nose along with a wonderfully spicy character  bright with rosemary and menthol top notes. Smooth and silky, with some power in the mouth, there’s a burnished, slightly spicy sandalwood quality here, a little vitamin c, slightly mineral quality as well on a palate that is pretty seamless. This shows good power, not the most complex bottling today but with good persistence and follow through on the finish. 90pts


2009 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Pora $55


Small raspberry fruit, sandalwood,  and lots of rose petals with a slightly dusty edge show up on the nose which carries with a sense of sweetness to the fruit.  Bright on the palate, and very lively in the mouth with raspberry and cranberry fruit, along with hints of wild cherry. This is really lovely with a playful balance, though it finishes a touch short with hard tannin on the cherry cough drop finish. Should be fairly elegant if the tannins soften up. 89pts


2009 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Muncagota $55


Big and detailed on the nose which shows wild, dark cherry fruit, flecked with bits of mint and tree bark, very detailed with an unusual, sweet creamy note, almost taffy like on the nose. packed with power and delicacy, this shows off lovely balance on the palate which is rich with cherry pit fruit, firm in texture, full of energy on the palate, even if the acids are a touch soft. Broad, fruity, and nicely fresh in the mouth thanks to the zesty tannins, this also exhibits good length, but it is not shy on alcohol. A lovely wine that shows both ripeness of fruit and a sort of windswept character. I bet this will improve though the alcohol will always be apparent. 90pts



2009 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Ovello $55


After a tight floral note opening note on the nose this turns very precise,  deep and savory with a fairly strong wood smoke top notes, briar, pipe tobacco, and strawberry aromas. In the mouth this exhibits a lovely, smooth polished feel, nuanced but smooth, with fine tannins and integrated acidity supporting really precise and crisp woodsy red berry fruits. This has excellent purity this year, and good length with a balance of tannin and acid that puts this near the top of the class. 92pts




2009 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Montestefano $55


Burnished wood pops on the earthy nose, which is dark yet fresh fruit, with a touch of quinine spice accenting the tight, tough and clay mineral, though sweetly floral toned nose. Big rich berry fruit greets the palate here along with nuanced spice notes that are wrapped up in a smooth, lithe palate that is rich with deep mineral notes that lead to a dark tight long finish that does show a hint of warmth. The fruit really turns quite dark cherried in the mouth, supported by nice round tannins that help to drive the briar wood and strawberry seed toned finish. This is complete and deep. A real winner. 93pts


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Additional Barbaresco wines tasted in Italy 2014


2011 Cascina delle Rose Rio Sordo $50


A step up in aromatic depth and complexity from the Tre Stelle and just gorgeous with complex floral aromas rich  with mineral flecked wild cherry, wild berry fruit and just a hint of lime zest. A little extract of fruit on the entrance with good weight and power on the palate, this is obviously a little young and chewy though long in the mouth with ripe tannins. Air brings out very pure wild cherry pit fruit, a little dusty and decidedly soil driven on the long finish, incredible emerging rose petal perfumes, serious depth to the flavors, and attractive complexity both on the nose and in the mouth. Fabulous wine. 94pts


2011 Cascina delle Rose Tre Stelle $55


Tight on the nose with very fine rose petal aromas and balsamic tinged red berry fruit, raspberry and limestone. Superbly elegant, pure and delicate in the mouth with late arriving tannins and intensity of fruit that leads to great intensity and weight on the back palate. While fairly tannic, the crisp tannins are well judged and present on the finish which is a bit tight, irony, and very aromatic with red fruit aromas with a hint of mint in the mouth. Tight and promising. 92pts



2010 Oddero Barbaresco Gallina $55


Rosehips, clay, cherry and strawberry aromas all show up on the cool, mineral rich nose. Crisp on entry long, and dusty in the mouth with a young,  tight and,  delicate feel. Showing off hints of mint and rose in the mouth retro nasally, this remains very firm and tight on the palate with very important tannins that are superbly fine grained. A bit warm and spicy on the finish, This has a lovely nose and the structure is gorgeous, though the fruit is hiding a bit today. 92pts



2009 Prunotto Barbaresco Bric Turot $65


In Barbaresco, a part of the vineyard was replanted three years ago, the last vintage with only older vine juice,


Big on the nose, deep and rich with dried fruit, leather and spice notes underpinned with hints of autumnal herbs, candied cherries, astringent spices and dry soil notes. Round and opulent in the mouth, this shows a nice blend of freshness of flavor and bright acids with tannins that are both ripe and just beginning to soften. Fairly tense and clear on the palate this still feels firm in the mouth with mossy cherry fruit on the palate leading to a backend which gains some leathery and dry spice tones before finishing with fairly important tannins and fine length, all amarena cherry and strawberry toned.  Pretty classic stuff with fine persistence and power. 92pts



2011 Oddero Barbaresco Gallina $55


Pretty on the nose with underlying  clay aromas topped with a little sweetness of dark fruit and nice pure macerated rosepetals and camphor top notes. This shows big yet precise fruit in the mouth with lovely, ripe tannins lending this a  velvety feel already. A little spicy on the palate, this has good  energy in the mouth and fine length. In an elegant style and pretty sweetly fruited, though remaining fairly complex and refined. 91pts



2009 Barale Barbaresco Serraboella $40


Strawberries in alcohol and leather greet the nose which smells a bit sweet and picks up a hint of carob with air. Bright acids are obvious on entry, and this is immediately  this is drinking quite well with small, slightly angular tannins supporting lots of strawberry fruit with little flecks of jammy black raspberry fruit that fills the palate and extends through the long finish. Well balanced, but not very nuanced and very fruit driven, this should have a long life ahead though it may never be the most complex. 90pts


2011 Prunotto Barbaresco $40


From vineyards in Barbaresco and Treiso


Gorgeous on the nose, rich with dried rose petals, dusty earth, menthol, nettle, chalk, woodsmoke a hint of game even and burnished amarena cherries and small plum fruits. Bright acids make this juicy and clear on the palate, perhaps a touch simple but with good concentration and lovely sour cherry, raspberry tinged fruit. The palate lacks the complexity found on the nose, but shows fine energy to the fruit and finishes with well judged but classic tannic bite, with a hint of leather and dried fruit adding some nuance to the finish. 90pts


2010 Francesco Rinaldi Barbaresco $45


2 years in big wood


Old wood, rose hips, hints of clove oil come together on the spicy nose along with slightly stewy cherry fruit, very aromatic with some newer wood here as well. Lean, fresh, and precise with tightly wound tannins in the mouth, moderately rich, with a little strawberry note on the backend. This is elegant in the mouth with a slight dip on the palate, then there's attractive richness and slightly sweet fruit notes with nice length and a hint of tobacco on the finish, which is a touch short and chunky today. This should improve as it fills out but may always be a little lean. 88pts


2008 Scarpa Barbaresco TettiNeive $NA


Tight on the nose with a fine cigar wrapper blond tobacco note, earthy, dried, pressed flowers, and hints of mint and camfor. Very smooth in the mouth with good acids and modest, ripe tannins that float around in the pool of orange tinged, orange acid supported wild strawberry flavors on the palate. Tight and acid driven on the finish, which shows lots of mineral depth. A bit minty in the mouth, good length, warm finish. 88pts


2011 Elvio Cogno Barbaresco Bordini $40


Small red fruits, sandalwood,  and hints of cinnamon, mushroom, and  leather appear on the nose along with a hint of peach. fairly tannic in the mouth and medium bodied, quite woodsy, savory, and a little tough in the mouth with menthol and strawberry flavors. Tannic and tough on the finish, with dry tannins that are not that well integrated.  Strives for elegance but is weighed down by tannins today. 87pts








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