Massolino - Azienda Agricola Vigna Rionda
Franco Massolino
Azienda Agricola Vigna Rionda. Well that was fortuitous. Obviously Vigna Rionda has always been very well thought of, but today it is one of, if not the crown jewel of Barolo vineyards and here the Massolino family has coopted the name half a century ago. Yes, the winery we casually refer to as Massolino is actually the Azienda Agricola Vigna Rionda!
OK, trivia time is over. I have had a convoluted relationship with Massolino, much easy to refer to them colloquially than write out Azienda Agricola Vigna Rionda every time. During my earliest visits to Massolino I had their traditional vintages of the 1980s and 1990s in my mind while their experimental phase, with the use of barrique, was in theri cellar and being introduced to the market. While never fully committing to barrique, admirably taking a graduated approach, the experiments did their wines no favors. I mean, when you are dealing with the greatest of crus, additional adornment is rarely necessary.
Over time, 16 years to be precise, the Massolino family, as repeatedly relayed to me by Franco, came to realize that grandfather Massolino had been right all along. The is no need for barrique and the wines aged in barrique evolved in way that was decidedly less satisfactory than botte aged wines. And you know what, Franco is entirely honest and open about the fact that he think they made a wrong decision. Not a mistake, because it was an experiment, but with the hindsight of 16 years they were able to disprove their hypothesis regarding the use of barrique and gave up the practice, returning to the production of more traditional wines.
I say more traditional because in the glass there is something decidedly more modern than fully traditional wines. There are no defects, copious amounts o fruit, and real freshness here, all backed up by the tannins, structure, and savoriness of Serralunga fruit, or in the case of Parussi, even more pronounced tannins and power. I am alway torn between my visceral love of these wines and what I am expected to like, but to my palate these are some of the finest Barolos being produced today, a Top 10 winery for sure, and the Massolino Barolo Classico is a must purchase wine for me, and one of the greatest value propositions in all of winedom.
Another point worth noting is that the entire Massolino portfolio is truly excellent, even their Chardonnay has turned out to be a more tensile, fresh, and well balanced example from the region. The Barberas are among my favorite in all of Italy, the Langhe Nebbiolo has the most seductive texture and straddles the line between power and freshness with remarkable grace, their recent portfolio expansion into Barbaresco has shown how easily they can adapt to new grape sources, though truth be told they have struggled a bit with the Parussi Bottling, figuring out how to tame it. I guess it is interesting how well the Barbaresco fruit fits into this Serralungan producer’s style. One would expect there to be some friction here, but the truth is that Massolino has become a winery achieving elegance, finesse, and delicacy, so well suited after all to interpret Barbaresco.
My only complaint has to do with the new pricing structure for the Vigna Rionda Barolo. But I get it, I am part of the problem here, all this talk of Vigna Rinda being the crown jewel, blah, blah, blah. This is the sad reality of success. A very limited number of bottles sought after by an ever increasing pool of purchasers. It’s econ 101, though the price increase was perhaps more brutal that it needed to be. But still, I do not lament, the other Baroli in the portfolio remain very fairly priced, moreso considering the quality, and I am happy to have access to them! We are living through a golden age in Barolo!
One last word here, on a more personal note. I have to add that I love spending time with Franco Massolino. He seems to be one of the most open, genuine, knowledgeable, and thoughtful producers of the Langhe. Gracious to a fault, open to all discussions, and just happy.
OK, trivia time is over. I have had a convoluted relationship with Massolino, much easy to refer to them colloquially than write out Azienda Agricola Vigna Rionda every time. During my earliest visits to Massolino I had their traditional vintages of the 1980s and 1990s in my mind while their experimental phase, with the use of barrique, was in theri cellar and being introduced to the market. While never fully committing to barrique, admirably taking a graduated approach, the experiments did their wines no favors. I mean, when you are dealing with the greatest of crus, additional adornment is rarely necessary.
Over time, 16 years to be precise, the Massolino family, as repeatedly relayed to me by Franco, came to realize that grandfather Massolino had been right all along. The is no need for barrique and the wines aged in barrique evolved in way that was decidedly less satisfactory than botte aged wines. And you know what, Franco is entirely honest and open about the fact that he think they made a wrong decision. Not a mistake, because it was an experiment, but with the hindsight of 16 years they were able to disprove their hypothesis regarding the use of barrique and gave up the practice, returning to the production of more traditional wines.
I say more traditional because in the glass there is something decidedly more modern than fully traditional wines. There are no defects, copious amounts o fruit, and real freshness here, all backed up by the tannins, structure, and savoriness of Serralunga fruit, or in the case of Parussi, even more pronounced tannins and power. I am alway torn between my visceral love of these wines and what I am expected to like, but to my palate these are some of the finest Barolos being produced today, a Top 10 winery for sure, and the Massolino Barolo Classico is a must purchase wine for me, and one of the greatest value propositions in all of winedom.
Another point worth noting is that the entire Massolino portfolio is truly excellent, even their Chardonnay has turned out to be a more tensile, fresh, and well balanced example from the region. The Barberas are among my favorite in all of Italy, the Langhe Nebbiolo has the most seductive texture and straddles the line between power and freshness with remarkable grace, their recent portfolio expansion into Barbaresco has shown how easily they can adapt to new grape sources, though truth be told they have struggled a bit with the Parussi Bottling, figuring out how to tame it. I guess it is interesting how well the Barbaresco fruit fits into this Serralungan producer’s style. One would expect there to be some friction here, but the truth is that Massolino has become a winery achieving elegance, finesse, and delicacy, so well suited after all to interpret Barbaresco.
My only complaint has to do with the new pricing structure for the Vigna Rionda Barolo. But I get it, I am part of the problem here, all this talk of Vigna Rinda being the crown jewel, blah, blah, blah. This is the sad reality of success. A very limited number of bottles sought after by an ever increasing pool of purchasers. It’s econ 101, though the price increase was perhaps more brutal that it needed to be. But still, I do not lament, the other Baroli in the portfolio remain very fairly priced, moreso considering the quality, and I am happy to have access to them! We are living through a golden age in Barolo!
One last word here, on a more personal note. I have to add that I love spending time with Franco Massolino. He seems to be one of the most open, genuine, knowledgeable, and thoughtful producers of the Langhe. Gracious to a fault, open to all discussions, and just happy.
The south facing slope of Vigna Rionda sits below the village of Serralunga
April 2024
2022 Massolino Langhe Riesling
That is a lovely nose, so floral, and mineral driven, already showing a hint of petrol, honeysuckle, green fruit, impressive for the hot and dry vintage, small production, small berries, A bit loose on the palate, though the flavor profile and texture is of a very fresh wine, all minerals, Green and yellow fruit, lovely cut with a gentle brightness of acidity, not trying, but complex, structured and fresh, lovely purity. 91pts
2022 Massolino Langhe Chardonnay
1/3 botte, 1//3 barrique, 1/3 concrete, a few amphora
Reduced battonage, press under nitrogen,
Potential for production of 40k bottles, Monforte and alba newer vineyards allowed for expanded production
This has really found its way, a lovely nose a hint of coffee cream, shows a nice fruit character, some cider apples, a touch of dried leaves, bright with great cut in the mouth, with a gentle edge of fruit, great purity to the fruit, firm through the midpalate, shows a faint hint of tannin on the back end leading to a bright expansive finish, long, with impressive finesse, and really fabulous follow through, just a hint of underlying tropicality, 92pts
2023 Massolino Dolcetto d’Alba
Bottled last week
Raw, lots of bitter almond with freshness, sweet plummy fruit, lots of violets, just fresh, light and pure light weight dolcetto, all based on freshness, purity and delicacy, Blue flowers and plum skins on entry, a nice sweetness to the fruit but all very fresh, modestly tannic and juicy, fruit runs a bit towards blueberry/huckleberry toned, exceptionable drinkability, the epitome of everyday wine. 90pts
2023 Massolino Barbera d’Alba
Bottled last week
African violet, soil, blackberry plum and spice notes come together nicely on the nose. A touch soft on entry, with some flesh but this too is very lacy and racy. It’s light weight, all about purity of fruit and perfumes in the mouth, clean, fresh, definitely in the style of the Dolcetto but more challenging with super soft tannins, juicy acidity, and a long finish with an extract of blackberry fruit, not saccharine but with an impression of sweetness, love this, it doesn't finish particular strongly, but gently and with nuance, but so pure. 91pts
2021 Massolino Barbera d’Alba Gisep
Lots of lift on the nose, just a nuance of volatility, dark, earthy, sweet toned, a hint of leather, nuanced and complex, has a sweet brownie, cocoa note. On entry this is much finer and fresher than the nose suggests, lovely lift in the mouth, certain bigger and some more density than the base bottling, but it’s so juicy with so much pure, lacy fruit, long, clean and fresh through the finish. Great finesse for a Barbera, real harmony and lovely balance with a decent touch of tannin lending length and firmness to the finish. 93pts
2022 Massolino Langhe Nebbiolo
With new vineyard in Alba 4H, white terroir Monforte 4H, Barbaresco, new tini for part fermentation in wood, one year in wood.
Shorter maceration, temperature little lower, but ver similar to the big guys.
Lovely classic, gentle array of perfumes, hint of menthol, some dark, slightly leather fruit, a hint of woodlands, faint floral nuances. Gorgeous texture on the palate, it’s sort of firm but has a certain fleshiness buffering it, then the tannins gently poke through with a base of juicy acidity keeping it fresh. Classic slightly burnished wild berry fruit in the mouth retains a slight astringent edge. Good length, more fruit purity and resonance to the fruit which gains significant floral and gentle spice nuance on the finale. Delicious, complex, straddles the wine between easy and complex perfectly for what it is. 93pts
2021 Massolino Barbaresco
Pretty, floral, red fruited, has an apricot glaze note to it and sweet citron and very floral aromas with a hint of blood orange. Wow, this is good, lots of superbly fresh fruit on entry, almost silky, great depth of minerality, chewy but still open and expressive with a juicy long, blood orange/citrus finish There’s great precision to the fruit, with a touch of floral extract on the midpalate leading to a moderately long finish which works on the interplay between fruit and minerality 93pts
2021 Massolino Barbaresco Albesani
4k bottles, 50 year old
Reticent, shows some nice white soil tones. a touch reticent, pretty important nose, a bit of dark fruit tones, more herbal extract and a slightly dark soil tone grace the nose, Compact, tight, powerful yet elegant, finesse driven. This is full of ripe tannins, deep, slightly old vineyardy, very limestone driven energy on the palate, tannic and compact through the long saline and mineral finish, Has great poise and balance but is almost painfully young, will be gorgeous 95pts
2020 Massolino Barolo
Barolo single vineyards fruit with Bricco imbroglio in Roddi 1.5H for Classico just signed lease this spring
Sweetish cherries in alcohol, rose petals, rosehips all grace the nose which is so sweet and pure, gaining leather, maybe a hint of cumin with air. Richer and more open than the Albesani, this is nuanced and detailed on the palate, rather firm for a 20, transparent, almost playful but with enough tannin to keep this interesting and rather firm Shows good follow through, feathery with nice cut on the tongue. Shows a gentle salinity and effortless balance, with this layered quality fruit, leather, floral, tannin, acidity, gains fine herbal nuance on the palate layered between fruit and leather, great persistence to the fruit. 94pts
2020 Massolino Barolo Margheria
So aromatically fine, a note of herb stem greets the nose followed by very thin but sweet wild berry fruit, floral, white soil, and mineral notes. A bit reticent, has some flesh to this early on the palate, quite vertical, quite mineral driven, elegant and fine, just a sense of delicacy with lovely firmness to the tannins, lovely wine, elegant, fine, and willowy, all finesse and grace, detailed and nuanced, quite classic, with great cut. 94pts
2020 Massolino Barolo Parafada
Dark fruit, blue clay, tight rosebud, with lingonberry and menthol back notes, Broader in the mouth and more ample than the Margheria, lending this a sense of greater richness but at the same time this is more tannic with more depth. Finishes very well with deep mineral soil notes, real resonance to the raspberry toned fruit, with dark cherry tones creeping in on the finish. Just beautiful, already offering pleasure but structured to improve, just great harmony here. 95pts
2020 Massolino Barolo Parussi
Lots of tea, with cappello sommerso note on the nose here, very deep herbal infusion, dark fruit, lots of dark herbal extract notes here, deep, broad shouldered with excellent balance. Deeply angular and faceted, a powerful wine on the palate with a juicy finish. A bit less elegant as usual, emerging licorice and tar notes lend complexity, menthol top note, textbook Barolo, just the most subtle sense of chewiness, nice tannic and slightly warm finish, trades some elegance for power. 93pts
No 2018 Vigna Rionda
April 2023
2021 Massolino Langhe Riesling
Mostly ss, a little amphora, about 4 -5 rs
Pretty heavy frost in 2021 but luckily mostly affected the white
Already showing some petrol/chemical aromas complexity, yellow fruit, quite ripe, nice dusty top notes. Lovely rich style, very gentle sweetness, lots of refreshing acidity, apple fruit, the sweetness is barely perceptible, nicely fresh and tart with russet apple skins, a touch short. 87pts
2021 Massolino Langhe Chardonnay
A new press that is under nitrogen, analyzes o2 during pressing and fermentation, are working to preserve the primary aromas of the grapes
1/3 in barrique 25% new, 1/3 in botte, 1/3 in cement amphora
Lovely, bright, and fresh with good energy, more restrained fruit, well integrated oak spice, more floral, in the mouth the oak is noticeable, not as sweet spice but the tannins and a hint of toffee, very tense pear and apple fruit, fine length and elegance, really lovely detail on the salty, mineral finish, long, sapid, very good style, finishes with the dusty soil of the Langhe. 89pts
2022 Massolino Dolcetto 14%
The color has the vivid purple framed ruby but it is totally translucent. The fruitiest dolcetto of the week. Blueberry, plummy, mineral very crude nose, lively, easy really lightweight, so featherweight, nuanced and delicate, a bit tight lacks some of the detail of the last vintage but lovely, friendly, approachable wine. 88pts
2022 Massolino Barbera d’Alba
Only in concrete and ss
Gorgeous purity and intensity of plummy, slightly ivy edged, African violet tones and soil rich aromas. Lots of pulp here, almost a bit chewy, deep, a little less vibrant but this retains so more edge and energy, then on the backend, very lean and tender, long, pure layer of lingering black cherry fruit. Super drinkable with admirable complexity for a drinking young and fresh wine. 90pts
2020 Massolino Barbera Gisep 15.5%
From 3 very old vineyards in Serralunga 60 years old
Completely different wine, shows the evolution on the nose, retains plenty of fruit, in a darker spice, licorice register. Much more opulent, mineral laced with so much more depth and nuance here, dried red berry fruit, strawberries, a little gentle, but lingering tannin, long, important and it feels poised and important. Really complex, even floral on the nose, this has no sense of being forced or overripe, a winter wine, its not as much fun but is a notably better wines than the Barbera 93pts
2021 Massolino Langhe Nebbiolo. 14.5%
Barolo from young vines, Monforte and alba where they bought
Monforte s, sw, w, high altitude, white terroir
Alba west
Reticent, icy, a bit of green herb balsamic, shows ripeness but still remains very red fruited, has a little note of something amber and spicy. Very poised, really great tension in the mouth, firm tannins, zesty, lovely blend of citrus and red berry fruit, a little iciness under the surface, long, the tannins are so fine and almost supple, lovely perfumes, just a great expression of Nebbiolo aromatics, 92pts
2020 Massolino Barbaresco
Starderi, Serraboella, and Albeisani
Gentle on the nose, lovely wild thyme, green herbal, and sage base notes, fine nettle and cherries in alcohol, hints of jasmine and ginseng. Rather rich and fruity on entry, a bit plump throughout the midpalate, lovely fruity style but with nice detail through the midpalate. Fine tannins, nicely floral finish which is a bit on the short side, minty, more herbal, lovely. 91pts
2020 Massolino Barbaresco Albesani
From a little higher corner 4k bottles
18 months big barrels, wild yeast,
Soil driven notes on the nose, tobacco, lots of sweetness here and a sweet baking spice note. More depth, notes of sandalwood, quite a lot of sweet spiced notes, fairly rich, less fruit driven than the base, much more structured. Deep, serious wine, long, tannic in the context of Barbaresco. Tobacco, woodland spice, layered deep, long very fine quality. Really impressive length. 94pts
2019 Massolino Barolo Classico
Briccona, Collaretto, Broglio, Le Turne, Castiglione around Parussi,
Really lovely nuanced and gentle nose, rose petals, a hint of hickory, red fruit, menthol, it’s a classic Barolo nose that show nuance and restraint. So elegant with depth and a nuanced sense of power, pretty deep and certainly complete in the mouth. Long and fine, fine grained tannins, so elegant, drops off a bit on the backend, needs time, tannins perk up a bit on the finish but remain well polished and quite fine grained, has a lovely lively brightness. 92pts
2019 Massolino Barolo Margheria
Outstanding in wet vintage with its sand and south west exposure
Effusive nose, blue fruity. Little powdered sugar, sweetness, Franco calls it charming, and it is very charming. Darker shaded fruit with a hint of torrefaction, sweet on entry, delicate, lovely rich red fruit parfait, almost has a touch of creaminess, has fine, sinewy presence in the mouth, ripe red berry fruit, almost an incipient truffle note, then soil, fine cut, white sandy soil, so clear and precise through the long, tart finish, great precision on this. With present but fairly delicate tannins. 93pts
2019 Massolino Barolo Parafada
Oldest vineyard with rootstock that is know for the depth of its root tends to not suffer from drought as much,
More white soil, less tannins, geologically very old soil, very poor, very small production
Beautiful delicate color More broad strawberry fruit on the nose, slightly medicinal, menthol, slightly meaty, a hint of cardoon spice. More compact than the Margheria, but deeper, richer, and more tannic if sharing the same sweet ripe tannins, almost chewy yet remaining transparent, has some underbrush on the nose, lovely firm, poised chiseled sense, great cherry fruit, just great tension and balance. 94pts
2019 Massolino Barolo Parussi
More clay, which might be why the tannins are more aggressive. Soil is darker more nutrition, more tannic
More herbal, saline and iodine, a harder tannin, transparent but lacks some of the depth of the prior two crus, drier tannin, a shorter wine, lovely tart red fruit, lingonberry, saltier on the palate, chewy, lovely wine but so different than Serralunga. There’s a lot of depth a little spiciness, a bit more crude. 90pts
2017 Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva
Another level of depth of fruit, spice, iron, deep and precise with a flourish of wild herbal notes. Poised has an added level of richness but no cooked quality, deep, tense, transparent and rich. There are ripe tannins throughout, this is rich with tannins, young, fresh such clean and precise fruit, a super restrained powerhouse, long and so transparent, its a class of its own. 96pts
2021 Massolino Langhe Riesling
Mostly ss, a little amphora, about 4 -5 rs
Pretty heavy frost in 2021 but luckily mostly affected the white
Already showing some petrol/chemical aromas complexity, yellow fruit, quite ripe, nice dusty top notes. Lovely rich style, very gentle sweetness, lots of refreshing acidity, apple fruit, the sweetness is barely perceptible, nicely fresh and tart with russet apple skins, a touch short. 87pts
2021 Massolino Langhe Chardonnay
A new press that is under nitrogen, analyzes o2 during pressing and fermentation, are working to preserve the primary aromas of the grapes
1/3 in barrique 25% new, 1/3 in botte, 1/3 in cement amphora
Lovely, bright, and fresh with good energy, more restrained fruit, well integrated oak spice, more floral, in the mouth the oak is noticeable, not as sweet spice but the tannins and a hint of toffee, very tense pear and apple fruit, fine length and elegance, really lovely detail on the salty, mineral finish, long, sapid, very good style, finishes with the dusty soil of the Langhe. 89pts
2022 Massolino Dolcetto 14%
The color has the vivid purple framed ruby but it is totally translucent. The fruitiest dolcetto of the week. Blueberry, plummy, mineral very crude nose, lively, easy really lightweight, so featherweight, nuanced and delicate, a bit tight lacks some of the detail of the last vintage but lovely, friendly, approachable wine. 88pts
2022 Massolino Barbera d’Alba
Only in concrete and ss
Gorgeous purity and intensity of plummy, slightly ivy edged, African violet tones and soil rich aromas. Lots of pulp here, almost a bit chewy, deep, a little less vibrant but this retains so more edge and energy, then on the backend, very lean and tender, long, pure layer of lingering black cherry fruit. Super drinkable with admirable complexity for a drinking young and fresh wine. 90pts
2020 Massolino Barbera Gisep 15.5%
From 3 very old vineyards in Serralunga 60 years old
Completely different wine, shows the evolution on the nose, retains plenty of fruit, in a darker spice, licorice register. Much more opulent, mineral laced with so much more depth and nuance here, dried red berry fruit, strawberries, a little gentle, but lingering tannin, long, important and it feels poised and important. Really complex, even floral on the nose, this has no sense of being forced or overripe, a winter wine, its not as much fun but is a notably better wines than the Barbera 93pts
2021 Massolino Langhe Nebbiolo. 14.5%
Barolo from young vines, Monforte and alba where they bought
Monforte s, sw, w, high altitude, white terroir
Alba west
Reticent, icy, a bit of green herb balsamic, shows ripeness but still remains very red fruited, has a little note of something amber and spicy. Very poised, really great tension in the mouth, firm tannins, zesty, lovely blend of citrus and red berry fruit, a little iciness under the surface, long, the tannins are so fine and almost supple, lovely perfumes, just a great expression of Nebbiolo aromatics, 92pts
2020 Massolino Barbaresco
Starderi, Serraboella, and Albeisani
Gentle on the nose, lovely wild thyme, green herbal, and sage base notes, fine nettle and cherries in alcohol, hints of jasmine and ginseng. Rather rich and fruity on entry, a bit plump throughout the midpalate, lovely fruity style but with nice detail through the midpalate. Fine tannins, nicely floral finish which is a bit on the short side, minty, more herbal, lovely. 91pts
2020 Massolino Barbaresco Albesani
From a little higher corner 4k bottles
18 months big barrels, wild yeast,
Soil driven notes on the nose, tobacco, lots of sweetness here and a sweet baking spice note. More depth, notes of sandalwood, quite a lot of sweet spiced notes, fairly rich, less fruit driven than the base, much more structured. Deep, serious wine, long, tannic in the context of Barbaresco. Tobacco, woodland spice, layered deep, long very fine quality. Really impressive length. 94pts
2019 Massolino Barolo Classico
Briccona, Collaretto, Broglio, Le Turne, Castiglione around Parussi,
Really lovely nuanced and gentle nose, rose petals, a hint of hickory, red fruit, menthol, it’s a classic Barolo nose that show nuance and restraint. So elegant with depth and a nuanced sense of power, pretty deep and certainly complete in the mouth. Long and fine, fine grained tannins, so elegant, drops off a bit on the backend, needs time, tannins perk up a bit on the finish but remain well polished and quite fine grained, has a lovely lively brightness. 92pts
2019 Massolino Barolo Margheria
Outstanding in wet vintage with its sand and south west exposure
Effusive nose, blue fruity. Little powdered sugar, sweetness, Franco calls it charming, and it is very charming. Darker shaded fruit with a hint of torrefaction, sweet on entry, delicate, lovely rich red fruit parfait, almost has a touch of creaminess, has fine, sinewy presence in the mouth, ripe red berry fruit, almost an incipient truffle note, then soil, fine cut, white sandy soil, so clear and precise through the long, tart finish, great precision on this. With present but fairly delicate tannins. 93pts
2019 Massolino Barolo Parafada
Oldest vineyard with rootstock that is know for the depth of its root tends to not suffer from drought as much,
More white soil, less tannins, geologically very old soil, very poor, very small production
Beautiful delicate color More broad strawberry fruit on the nose, slightly medicinal, menthol, slightly meaty, a hint of cardoon spice. More compact than the Margheria, but deeper, richer, and more tannic if sharing the same sweet ripe tannins, almost chewy yet remaining transparent, has some underbrush on the nose, lovely firm, poised chiseled sense, great cherry fruit, just great tension and balance. 94pts
2019 Massolino Barolo Parussi
More clay, which might be why the tannins are more aggressive. Soil is darker more nutrition, more tannic
More herbal, saline and iodine, a harder tannin, transparent but lacks some of the depth of the prior two crus, drier tannin, a shorter wine, lovely tart red fruit, lingonberry, saltier on the palate, chewy, lovely wine but so different than Serralunga. There’s a lot of depth a little spiciness, a bit more crude. 90pts
2017 Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva
Another level of depth of fruit, spice, iron, deep and precise with a flourish of wild herbal notes. Poised has an added level of richness but no cooked quality, deep, tense, transparent and rich. There are ripe tannins throughout, this is rich with tannins, young, fresh such clean and precise fruit, a super restrained powerhouse, long and so transparent, its a class of its own. 96pts
April 2022
These wines have become so pure and fruit driven
Since last visit 10 h bought in Monforte looking at Dogliani, highest portion of the hill a small parcel of windy weather, everyday, planted riesling there, planted with 3 clones from the rheingau
2020 Massolino Langhe Riesling 12.5%
First vintage was 2017
Only screw cap, 5 grams rs
Fresh, almost hint of grassiness, fresh fruity, hint of melon, green apple and pear, reveals a bit of minerality, lovely fruit, a little grapefruit, lovely transparency, salty, long mineral, salty finish, has a little cantaloup to it, absolutely nervous, palate cleansing. 91pts
2020 Massolino Langhe Chardonnay
Changed approach, less oxidative, press under nitrogen, aged for 9-10 month 1/3 in barrique, 1/3 botte, 1/3 ss, 20% new barrique
I can’t help but smile here, it’s not my jam, but this has a terrific blend of oak and fresh fruit on the nose, Oak has really receded here, enough to please people looking for that but the floral nature is almost dominant, pear, powdered sugar, bigger in the mouth than the nose suggests, this is opulent, full of deep fruit, almost tannic, good acidity well integrated, pure lemon and golden apple fruit, tense and youthful, so much fruit! 90pts
2021 Massolino Dolcetto d’Alba 13.5%
Just bottled
Vibrant, transparent, violet Fruity nose, all berries and so fresh with gentle fir, and sliced red apple fruit. Smells astringent, electric, lean but not skeletal, great cut, it’s compressed from bottling, juicy firm, love the austerity here, great length, all drinkable, lean, very fine, I love this style. 91pts
2021 Massolino Barbera d’Alba 14.5%
Blackish color. Violet aromas are joined by gorgeous black plum fruit, absolutely seductive nose, it’s floral, rich. Holy hell this is packed with richness fruit, chewy but fresh, transparent, almost like Dolcetto, much richer, so fresh, all plum skin and black cherry, off the charts drinkability. 94pts
2020 Massolino Barbera d’Alba Gisep from cask
Preparing for bottling
Fruit from 3 old vineyards in Serralunga.
1.5 years aging, 50% in barrique, 20% new, rest in one big botte
Deep old vines, sweet, earthy, herbal, much more savory, sweet, deep, chewy, mineral, deep and velvety, great depth, great inner mouth perfume, this is so terroir driven, fabulous, the texture is fabulous ts interesting it can’t really be compared to other Barbera, reminds me a little of Vega Sicilia, in it’s incomparability, and texture, tremendous old vineyness. 94pts
2020 Massolino Nebbiolo d’Alba
So fresh, lovely green grassy herbal top note, saffron, fennel, sweet watermelon, a touch of cigar ash. A pretty big wine, chewy, supple, deep, faceted, fairly tannic but the tannins are very ripe, dark, powerful fruit, wow this is good nebbiolo, complex, rich, long, clean, with a wonderfully rich finish, crazy long, 93pts
Since last visit rented five hectares in Neive
Starderri, Serraboella, Albeisani
2019 Massolino Barbaresco
And the younger portion of Albeisani,
Dante Scaglione is consulting
Very light and delicate on the nose, floral, and delicate wild strawberry fruit, a touch of cinnamon on the nose, delicate fresh jammy wild berry fruit on the palate, a lovely spice note, black licorice, so fine and elegant. Savory with burnished orange peel, wild berry, lingonberry, all delicacy and lace, Nebbiolo tannins are unavoidable, but this is very fine. 90pts
2019 Massolino Barbaresco Albesani
Was bottled as a cru, was more to their taste, small parcel only 4k bottles.
So perfumed, more fruit, spice, rosewood, darker florally blood orange, cherries. On the palate there is a sweetness up front, then quite vertical linear, richer than the base, deep, muscular, old vineyards, wow this is good, tense, long, fine, fairly tannic but ripe, lovely savory length, old viny, regally austere. 94pts
2018 Massolino Barolo
2018 after vilification and during Malo, lost energy and character, decided to blend them all
This is a good 2018, tobacco, earth, very serralunga and very approachable, a bit minty, a bit golia medicinal. Cool menthol attributes on entry, tense, dusty, long, huge rose petals, tobacco, sweet woodsy,
Potassium salt, high from prior drought year, attaches to acidity, also will produce a lot of sediment which strips the wine a little when it falls clear, smooth but still tannic, dark fruit, delicate, reship and citrus flavored finish, a hint too soft perhaps, very Serralunge, needs another 2-3 years, more balsamic. 90pts
2016 Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva
Such a unique vintage deserves a black label, which will be appied only when he thinks it’s really particular
A hint peppery, a hint of rust, finely smoky, pipe tobacco sweet smoke, a hint of nail polish, seamless, deep, chewy, youthful, chewy, obviously a great vintage, but also obviously a great wine, tannins so ripe, deep rust iron and blood on the finish, pomegranate, sweet orange, delicate woodland fruits, sneaky length, superb balance, a hint of iodine. A subtle, powerful wine. 96pts
These wines have become so pure and fruit driven
Since last visit 10 h bought in Monforte looking at Dogliani, highest portion of the hill a small parcel of windy weather, everyday, planted riesling there, planted with 3 clones from the rheingau
2020 Massolino Langhe Riesling 12.5%
First vintage was 2017
Only screw cap, 5 grams rs
Fresh, almost hint of grassiness, fresh fruity, hint of melon, green apple and pear, reveals a bit of minerality, lovely fruit, a little grapefruit, lovely transparency, salty, long mineral, salty finish, has a little cantaloup to it, absolutely nervous, palate cleansing. 91pts
2020 Massolino Langhe Chardonnay
Changed approach, less oxidative, press under nitrogen, aged for 9-10 month 1/3 in barrique, 1/3 botte, 1/3 ss, 20% new barrique
I can’t help but smile here, it’s not my jam, but this has a terrific blend of oak and fresh fruit on the nose, Oak has really receded here, enough to please people looking for that but the floral nature is almost dominant, pear, powdered sugar, bigger in the mouth than the nose suggests, this is opulent, full of deep fruit, almost tannic, good acidity well integrated, pure lemon and golden apple fruit, tense and youthful, so much fruit! 90pts
2021 Massolino Dolcetto d’Alba 13.5%
Just bottled
Vibrant, transparent, violet Fruity nose, all berries and so fresh with gentle fir, and sliced red apple fruit. Smells astringent, electric, lean but not skeletal, great cut, it’s compressed from bottling, juicy firm, love the austerity here, great length, all drinkable, lean, very fine, I love this style. 91pts
2021 Massolino Barbera d’Alba 14.5%
Blackish color. Violet aromas are joined by gorgeous black plum fruit, absolutely seductive nose, it’s floral, rich. Holy hell this is packed with richness fruit, chewy but fresh, transparent, almost like Dolcetto, much richer, so fresh, all plum skin and black cherry, off the charts drinkability. 94pts
2020 Massolino Barbera d’Alba Gisep from cask
Preparing for bottling
Fruit from 3 old vineyards in Serralunga.
1.5 years aging, 50% in barrique, 20% new, rest in one big botte
Deep old vines, sweet, earthy, herbal, much more savory, sweet, deep, chewy, mineral, deep and velvety, great depth, great inner mouth perfume, this is so terroir driven, fabulous, the texture is fabulous ts interesting it can’t really be compared to other Barbera, reminds me a little of Vega Sicilia, in it’s incomparability, and texture, tremendous old vineyness. 94pts
2020 Massolino Nebbiolo d’Alba
So fresh, lovely green grassy herbal top note, saffron, fennel, sweet watermelon, a touch of cigar ash. A pretty big wine, chewy, supple, deep, faceted, fairly tannic but the tannins are very ripe, dark, powerful fruit, wow this is good nebbiolo, complex, rich, long, clean, with a wonderfully rich finish, crazy long, 93pts
Since last visit rented five hectares in Neive
Starderri, Serraboella, Albeisani
2019 Massolino Barbaresco
And the younger portion of Albeisani,
Dante Scaglione is consulting
Very light and delicate on the nose, floral, and delicate wild strawberry fruit, a touch of cinnamon on the nose, delicate fresh jammy wild berry fruit on the palate, a lovely spice note, black licorice, so fine and elegant. Savory with burnished orange peel, wild berry, lingonberry, all delicacy and lace, Nebbiolo tannins are unavoidable, but this is very fine. 90pts
2019 Massolino Barbaresco Albesani
Was bottled as a cru, was more to their taste, small parcel only 4k bottles.
So perfumed, more fruit, spice, rosewood, darker florally blood orange, cherries. On the palate there is a sweetness up front, then quite vertical linear, richer than the base, deep, muscular, old vineyards, wow this is good, tense, long, fine, fairly tannic but ripe, lovely savory length, old viny, regally austere. 94pts
2018 Massolino Barolo
2018 after vilification and during Malo, lost energy and character, decided to blend them all
This is a good 2018, tobacco, earth, very serralunga and very approachable, a bit minty, a bit golia medicinal. Cool menthol attributes on entry, tense, dusty, long, huge rose petals, tobacco, sweet woodsy,
Potassium salt, high from prior drought year, attaches to acidity, also will produce a lot of sediment which strips the wine a little when it falls clear, smooth but still tannic, dark fruit, delicate, reship and citrus flavored finish, a hint too soft perhaps, very Serralunge, needs another 2-3 years, more balsamic. 90pts
2016 Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva
Such a unique vintage deserves a black label, which will be appied only when he thinks it’s really particular
A hint peppery, a hint of rust, finely smoky, pipe tobacco sweet smoke, a hint of nail polish, seamless, deep, chewy, youthful, chewy, obviously a great vintage, but also obviously a great wine, tannins so ripe, deep rust iron and blood on the finish, pomegranate, sweet orange, delicate woodland fruits, sneaky length, superb balance, a hint of iodine. A subtle, powerful wine. 96pts