These days are flying by.
At least this morning I was able to get a good night's sleep. Our first appointment today is not until 11am, with Giuseppe Rinaldi. If anyone is a cult superstar in Barolo it is Rinaldi. Many will argue that the wines have improved under the supervision of Marta Rinaldi, which may be true, but these have always been among the best of the best here in Barolo.
Having said that, the public has spoken and there is no wine here. Not quite, but today's tasting has followed a pattern over the years of ever fewer wines being offered. Today we tasted three wines, the 2012s from botte and a lovely 2013 Nebbiolo. 2012 is turning out to be a very varied vintage with wines that range from a touch dilute and delicate, to powerful and complete. I have yet to get my head wrapped around the vintage but the 2012 Rinaldi Brunate is a bit more towards the delicate side of the spectrum, a touch simple, though with great energy and elegance in the mouth. I imagine it will put on weight in the botte and the bottle and should be it usual standout self.
At least this morning I was able to get a good night's sleep. Our first appointment today is not until 11am, with Giuseppe Rinaldi. If anyone is a cult superstar in Barolo it is Rinaldi. Many will argue that the wines have improved under the supervision of Marta Rinaldi, which may be true, but these have always been among the best of the best here in Barolo.
Having said that, the public has spoken and there is no wine here. Not quite, but today's tasting has followed a pattern over the years of ever fewer wines being offered. Today we tasted three wines, the 2012s from botte and a lovely 2013 Nebbiolo. 2012 is turning out to be a very varied vintage with wines that range from a touch dilute and delicate, to powerful and complete. I have yet to get my head wrapped around the vintage but the 2012 Rinaldi Brunate is a bit more towards the delicate side of the spectrum, a touch simple, though with great energy and elegance in the mouth. I imagine it will put on weight in the botte and the bottle and should be it usual standout self.
Chiara was one of the producers directly impacted by the recent, effective 2010 vintage, change in what are known as the additional geographic mentions, AKA crus. Right above the family home was the cur Via Nuova, and in fact the cantina's adress is on Via Nuova, though with the new classification of crus Via Nuova has been absorbed into Terlo. Rather than make a Terlo, which could have carried a vineyard identification of Vigna Via Nuova, Chiara opted instead to make a blended Barolo that recalled the wines previously produced here. To keep the wine truer to its roots, it is aged in medium format large ovals, I love the idea and the step in the right direction.
On the other hand the 2012 Tre Tine, has, at this point in its evolution, something more on offer. Broader in the mouth, as opposed to the laser focus of the Brunate, and more complex with herbal framing notes adding depth and nuance to the brilliant and clear fruit. There is certainly something going on here.
The Nebbiolo is, as always, standout among Nebbiolo, and as good as if not better than quite a few Barolos. Sadly we did have a bottle of the 2012 Rinaldi Barbera I believe, the bottle was thrown out, that was refermenting in the bottle. A note of caution and perhaps an indication of the risk one might have to take to hit the high notes so often.
Our visit was lead by the modest and sweet Carlotta Rinaldi on this day. Any question we had was answered and the visit itself was quite informative and complete, just don't get your hopes up for lots of a grand tasting here. For that you'll have to buy the bottles, and not here either. They are, after all, all sold out!
Lunch was the usual, back to Montanello, though we swung by the little market in Gallo, a lovely family store that sells virtually everything one might need for a meal from freshly baked breads and house made salumi to fresh fruit, vegetables, cheese, frigate, and all the basic a person might want. A great alternative to the Famila supermarket right down the street.
The Nebbiolo is, as always, standout among Nebbiolo, and as good as if not better than quite a few Barolos. Sadly we did have a bottle of the 2012 Rinaldi Barbera I believe, the bottle was thrown out, that was refermenting in the bottle. A note of caution and perhaps an indication of the risk one might have to take to hit the high notes so often.
Our visit was lead by the modest and sweet Carlotta Rinaldi on this day. Any question we had was answered and the visit itself was quite informative and complete, just don't get your hopes up for lots of a grand tasting here. For that you'll have to buy the bottles, and not here either. They are, after all, all sold out!
Lunch was the usual, back to Montanello, though we swung by the little market in Gallo, a lovely family store that sells virtually everything one might need for a meal from freshly baked breads and house made salumi to fresh fruit, vegetables, cheese, frigate, and all the basic a person might want. A great alternative to the Famila supermarket right down the street.
After lunch we headed into Barolo village where we had an appointment with Chiara Boschis of E. Pira. A modernist, and the only girl in the Barolo Boys' group, Chiara makes the rare oaken Barolo that I like. Some vintages are better than others, and the wines can be a bit too fruity in their youth, but with time they integrate very well. The oak treatment here has been reined in quite severly over the years, going from 100% new barrique at some point in the past to the roughly 30% new today. Experiments in larger format wood have also come to fruition here.
E. Pira: between modern and traditional Chiara was one of the producers directly impacted by the recent, effective 2010 vintage, change in what are known as the additional geographic mentions, AKA crus. Right above the family home was the cur Via Nuova, and in fact the cantina's adress is on Via Nuova, though with the new classification of crus Via Nuova has been absorbed into Terlo. Rather than make a Terlo, which could have carried a vineyard identification of Vigna Via Nuova, Chiara opted instead to make a blended Barolo that recalled the wines previously produced here. To keep the wine truer to its roots, it is aged in medium format large ovals, I love the idea and the step in the right direction.
If you don't enjoy oaken Barolo, even when it is well done and nuanced, I still think that a visit here is a must do. Chiara is a leading proponent of organic farming in the region, and her passion for the subject, and depth of knowledge, resulting from broad based experience, is unmatched. I love listening to her, and learn something new with every visit. Today we spoke a bit about the effort to make Cannubi the first Bio-distretto, or organic district, in Barolo. It's a movement that has real traction, having only a handful of small producers as holdouts and two of the larger landholders here as well. Shame on them. Kudos to Chaira; I look forward to the day when all Cannubi with be organic thanks to her hard work.
The village of Barolo is becoming a bit of a hot bed of organic farming, and our next visit, while a sharp contrast in style, was an indication of how broad based this movement has become. Barale is a little know name in the US, but the family has been producing wine for well over a century. In fact at one point, due to a marriage, there was a winery known as Barale-Rinaldi that included both families that would eventually go on to found Giuseppe Rinaldi and Francesco Rinaldi!
Today they are simply Barale, and if you've been lucky you've been treated to some fabulous wines from them for the past several decades, my experience goes back only to 1961, but it includes many standout wines. Sergio, salt of the earth, and Eleonora, sweet, gentle, and sharp as a tack, seem to share the reins here today, and the infusion of a woman's touch and a younger outlook seem to have moved the style of wine slightly. In the past the wines could have been faulted for being a bit rustic and severe, nothing that time wouldn't cure, but the impression I got was that the wines profited a bit too much from press wine, and perhaps from either too much time in wood, or barrels that might have been a bit too old. Today the wines remain traditional and classic, but with fresher perfumes, crisper fruit, and a more refined mouth feel.
Today they are simply Barale, and if you've been lucky you've been treated to some fabulous wines from them for the past several decades, my experience goes back only to 1961, but it includes many standout wines. Sergio, salt of the earth, and Eleonora, sweet, gentle, and sharp as a tack, seem to share the reins here today, and the infusion of a woman's touch and a younger outlook seem to have moved the style of wine slightly. In the past the wines could have been faulted for being a bit rustic and severe, nothing that time wouldn't cure, but the impression I got was that the wines profited a bit too much from press wine, and perhaps from either too much time in wood, or barrels that might have been a bit too old. Today the wines remain traditional and classic, but with fresher perfumes, crisper fruit, and a more refined mouth feel.
Sergio has been an innovator over the years, and proudly tasted us through a pair of ten year old cuvess of sparkling wine, 100% Pinot Nero and seven years on the lees. The 2007 was a bit less well integrated and a bit awkward, though the 2005 was starting to sing and shows the potential these wines have here. The rest of the line-up ranges from good to exceptional. I was happy that we were able to spend time talking with Sergio, he as as authentic and dedicated a Baroliste as one is likely to find, and I fondly recall several hours we spent together years ago discussing the cru system and the family's holdings.
Holdings in Bussia and Cannubi are a source of pride for the family, but their historic holdings in Castellero produce a fabulous Barolo that is perhaps more approachable than the other two single vineyards, but no less of a great wine!
Holdings in Bussia and Cannubi are a source of pride for the family, but their historic holdings in Castellero produce a fabulous Barolo that is perhaps more approachable than the other two single vineyards, but no less of a great wine!
In addition to making great wines, Eleonora is a great source of restaurant recommendations as well. Always outside the tourism circle, but providing great food, authenticity, and value. This evening we accompanied her, and enologist Stefan Della Piana to dinner, at the beautiful Trattoria in Piazza di Montelupo. We enjoy some fabulous conversations during the evening, but one of the highpoints, though quite personal, was tasting the 2007 Flavio Roddolo Barolo Ravera. A bit too much time in wood perhaps, are maybe a bitter dirty, but with good freshness for the vintage, and real impressive Ravera character: tannic, dark, slightly roasted fruit rich with extracted herbal nuance. It's decidedly not my favorite cru, though I do think I now have a very clear picture of it.
We also enjoyed the 2005 Barale Bussia Riserva, a finer wine, and more to my liking, great balance , rich, ripe red fruits, and beautiful, subtle complexity on the palate and through the finish. We wrapped up another great evening, and were off to bed at the usual time, shortly after 12:30. No wonder this is tiring work!
RSS Feed