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1999 Castellare di Castellina I Sodi di San Niccolò

5/12/2020

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#GDPandThePig

You know I love Sangiovese right? Well not all Sangiovese but those from terrific terroirs. One of the best terroirs is to be found on the estate of Castellare in Castellina, a famed producer of Chianti Classico who also produces a super Tuscan wine that is dear to my heart.

This is one of the first super Tuscans that I tried and cellared, and while it can be a difficult wine, it is also very rewarding. Mostly Sangiovese, with some Malvasia Nera softening things up and lending some aromatics, particularly when the wine is young. The wine is then aged in barrique, 50% of which is new in recent vintages, though a large percentage of new oak has always been the case here. I am no fan of new barrique, used judiciously it is a valuable ageing vessel, but it has a tendency to be too prominent for my palate. Well, I Sodi taught me that barrique need not be feared in Tuscany. In fact it is expertly used here.

The grapes for I Sodi come from the estate's vineyards, around an old house were once lived a priest. Rumor has it that the soil was so poor all that grew on that land were potatoes. That meager soil has given  I Sodi it's signature austerity and deep soil driven flavor profile. Again, this is not an easy wine, but it is a terroirist's dream!

This was a terrific looking bottle, cellared since release, with a  base neck fill, good cork, and color that is still deep and bright
Tight nose, hints of nutty oak layered over creaminess, soil, fresh medicinal herbs, a touch of iron, so soil driven and dusty, with some dried spice,  sun burnt cherry, and flinty blackberry fruit.

So austere, so regal, with just incredible cut and definition in the mouth. There's an important tannic imprint here, but the tannins are so fine grained; it’s elegant yet strict, A german could have made this wine. Gaining some weight on the backend before yielding to the dusty soil driven, cherry skin toned finish. Just a suggestion of bitterness adding amplitude to the bitter black cherry skin flavors of the finish. Just terrific, so complete, nervous with defining tension in the mouth and a persistence to the fruit that is not based on sweetness or weight, but leaves an impression of fruit skin extract on the palate. Absolutely at peak and one of the finest example of Sangiovese I’ve had in a long time. 96pts

Just a regal wine, distinctive, unique, of its place and time.

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